Re: [h-cost] Who's still here? & smock question

[Wanda pease]

Regina Romsey still hanging on!

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 19, 2015, at 8:25 AM, Viv Watkins  wrote:
> 
> Hello Susan
> 
> As Catherine says there are several smocks in the V & A. This is their 
> collections page - http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/t/the-collections/ You can 
> search on 'smock'.  There are several early women's smocks and the 
> traditional work smocks.  Another title you may be interested in is 'The 
> Countryman's Smock' by Anne Buck - reprint from Folk Life; it does not 
> mention any smocks being for women.  I think it must be a very rare title, it 
> is not listed on Amazon but you may be able to find a copy. In the UK we are 
> able to request books from the British Library through our local libraries, a 
> wonderful service.  Do you have anything similar?
> 
> Viv.
> 
> -Original Message- From: Catherine Walton
> Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2015 7:02 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who's still here? & smock question
> 
> I have the Shire book by Alice Armes, "English Smocks", (9th ed., Dryad
> Press Ltd., London, 1987).  The section on the history of the English
> smock only refers to men wearing smocks, but there is a later section on
> the trade emblems embroidered on the smocks includes:  "Milkmaids -
> churns, butter pats, hearts, etc.".  An embroidery pattern included with
> the book is for these symbols.
> 
> It also says that:  "Elaborately decorated smocks were not produced
> before the middle of the eighteenth century, and they reached their
> greatest perfection in the early part of the nineteenth century." Two of
> the illustrations are photographs of smocks in the Victoria and Albert
> Museum, so their site could be worth a search; others are from county
> museums, such as the Castle Museum, Nottingham.
> 
> Catherine. 
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Wanda pease]

I'm still here too and sad that it's gone.  I tried the Facebook but nothing 
comes thru.  I'm discouraged and not a stupid user.  I've been using computers 
since ARPANET and Compuserve in the 1980s.

Regina

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 17, 2015, at 8:48 AM, Kate Bunting  wrote:
> 
> I'm still here too. I don't do much sewing but am still involved in
> historical reenactment.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> 
> On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond <
> ca...@thyrsus.com> wrote:
> 
>>> On 12/17/2015 09:38 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to
>>> admit I don't read them.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave at the
>>> Jane Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in Louisville
>>> in October.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html
>> Thanks for the URL, Ann!
>> 
>> My attempt to respond to the "is the list still going" post also drew a
>> rejection message.  Hopefully this will get through.
>> 
>> --
>> Catherine Olanich Raymond
>> ca...@thyrsus.com
>> (610) 805-9542
>> 
>> "Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn."
>> Benjamin Franklin
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Wanda pease]

Lots of luck.  My long term "guest". Took longer than planned to leave, I had 
to really clean, repaint, and tell myself no! I don't have guest room!

Regina
Sent from my iPad

On Dec 17, 2015, at 2:46 PM, Wicked Frau  wrote:

>> 
>> I am still here.  I have been waiting for a long term house guest to move
>> out (it is happening this weekend!) so I can un-clutter my beautiful sewing
>> room and get back at it!  I have been sewing in little spurts but the
>> projects have been mostly modern, albeit with wool and linen!
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
 
 http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html
>>> Thanks for the URL, Ann!
>>> 
>>> My attempt to respond to the "is the list still going" post also drew a
>>> rejection message.  Hopefully this will get through.
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Catherine Olanich Raymond
>>> ca...@thyrsus.com
>>> (610) 805-9542
>>> 
>>> "Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn."
>>> Benjamin Franklin
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 32

[Wanda pease]

Try WorldCat, or ask your local research librarian.  I have at least one 
fabulous large format book on the subject but it's downstairs in my personal 
library.  Real books frequently have photos of original paintings and research 
that isn't available on the web.

Regina

Sent from my iPad

 On Jun 7, 2015, at 12:11 PM, Catalina Elvira ladycatal...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 Hi,I would really be interested in the Spanish Ren Costuming; but it does not 
 come up when I do a search on Facebook.Even when I changed iot to Spanish 
 Renaissance From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com
 Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 32
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2015 12:00:01 -0600
 
 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
h-costume@mail.indra.com
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of h-costume digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
   1. Facebook Groups (Monie Bryan)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Sun, 31 May 2015 16:44:02 -0700
 From: Monie Bryan cil...@dracolore.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Facebook Groups
 Message-ID:
cafx075-jth4gfjjjxqnbunwwcjwcwji1o4ppvkvoeaxbn1h...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
 
 Hi Susan,
 
 If you do a search or query on what you are interested in? I am sure you
 can find dozens of historical Costuming Groups
 
 I am part of
 SCA Garb
 Elizabethan Costuming* Really Good*
 Margo Anderson's Patterns Group
 Tudor Tailor
 Renaissance Italian Costuming
 Spanish Ren Costuming
 
 Whatever you could be interested in or wanted to become part of?? You will
 find a group on FB!  Welcome!
 
 
 --
 
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 End of h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 32
 *
 
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Re: [h-cost] anyone here

[Wanda pease]

Here among the lonely.

Regina Romsey

Sent from my iPad

 On Jan 14, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Robert Pabinquit concertmast...@yahoo.com 
 wrote:
 
 I still read the posts. As someone who makes clothing for Renaissance casts 
 there have been many times these posts have come through with a detail I 
 needed. Especially when a painting was posted or a site was shared. 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
 
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Re: [h-cost] slashing fabric

[Wanda Pease]

The authors of The Tudor Tailor series are offering a line of Pinking chisels I 
would call them, recreated from original finds.   www.tudortailor.com

Regina

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 23, 2014, at 9:26 AM, lili...@earthlink.net wrote:

 On Wed, 23 Jul 2014, Bonnie Booker wrote:
 As far as a chisel for cutting, a blade works better and is easier. I would
 think this is what they would use.
 
 Here are some webpages with pictures of tools used for slashing and pinking. 
 Rather chisel-like, but quite specialized.
 
 http://thegoldenscissors.blogspot.com/2012/06/pinking-tools-on-ebay.html
 Includes a picture from 18th c. Diderot's Encyclopedia
 
 http://duchesstrading.blogspot.com/2011/06/cool-antique-tools-pinking-machines.html
 Pinking chisels as well as a 19th c. pinking machine
 
 From my studies of pinking in the 16th c., i believe the chisel-like tools 
 are quite similar to those used then. ISTR a 16th c. painting showing the 
 tools but am not finding it at the moment.
 
 Anahita
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Re: [h-cost] 1880s hair-styling terms: crimps and fedoras

[Wanda Pease]

The word fedora comes from an 1882 play by Victorien Sardou Princess Fedora 
written for and performed by Sarah Bernhardt.  During the play Bernhardt, a 
notorious cross dresser wore a center creased soft hat that eventually became a 
male affectation.

I'd look for Sarah Bernhardt pictures with fluffy bangs since your heroine 
seems to be unhappy with her high forehead showing,

Regina

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 9, 2014, at 8:37 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 OH!! I forgot! I was going to give you one more link...old videos of women
 doing their hair. I love this!
 
 http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/titanic/hair.htm
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 8:29 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 What a fun topic!!! Love vintage hair styling! And since my hair wont hold
 a heat curl for more than 35 minutes, I've explored a lot of no-heat curl
 options. :)
 
 A fedora is a particular style of hat. It was quite the norm to give hats
 a little treatment at the end of every use, especially in the case of
 suede, felt or velvet, where a brushing not only knocks the dirt off but
 refreshes the surface texture. People did this with garments too to get a
 little more wear out of them between washings, or to keep non-washable
 garments clean.
 
 There are quite a number of ways to achieve curls, without modern curling
 irons, and women have been doing it since the dawn of time. To me, crimp
 implies more of a folded, zig-zag type curl than a round curl. Or at the
 very least, tight and small curls. In the 1880s, many irons existed for
 hair styling many of which would achieve a crimped look. Even a iron for
 clothes could be used to curl hair. But I agree that the author is implying
 that it is a set and air dry style...and that the starring character is
 being lazy with her beauty routine. LOL!
 
 What you suggested are all definite possibilities. While bobby pins are a
 newer invention, standard hair pins have been around since before the birth
 of Christ. In addition to pinning curls to your head like 40s pin curls,
 hair pin curls could be achieved in the same way that hairpin crochet is
 done; take a small strand, wrap it back and forth on the needles, pin the
 whole thing in place and let it dry.
 
 A twist set creates a more crimped look too. Either you take small
 sections of hair and twist the sections together tightly. Or you take one
 section and twist it around something else. Then, once it is fully try, you
 carefully un-twist. It's all the same process, whether you use only your
 own hair or wrap around something else.

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Re: [h-cost] anybody know curti? Venetian slang for mid-range social climbers????

[Wanda Pease]

The book uses it to distinguish Short Timer or New rich from the families 
who have been leading Venetian families for generations.  Kat is from one of 
the oldest families in Venice ang therefore her family is one of the.  Casa 
Longi. The only older family left is Marco's Valdosta clan whose first 
ancestor started Venice when the area was just swamp.

Wanda

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 7, 2014, at 7:23 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote:

 As you've probably already discovered, searching is difficult because
 both curti and the singular curto are popular surnames. Do these
 authors usually use historic terms or do they invent terms? Some
 tidbits I found:
 
 Curti is a city in Italy
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curti,_Campania
 
 Florio (1611):
 curti - pens or or folds for sheepe
 curto - see corto
 corto - short, briefe, succinct, either in body, quantity or time
 
 http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/florio/149small.html
 http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/florio/142small.html
 
 
 --Charlene
 
 On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 4:15 PM, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org 
 wrote:
 reading Shadow of the Lion, set in 1530-ish Venice... this term sounds kind 
 of clothing-related but also indicates social status? like, nouveau-riche?? 
 I HAVE just spent a while googling for a definition, but no luck.
 
 The specific line that has inspired me to try to get specific here is : 
 Curti like the Brunelli would never settle for lesser curti. (The Brunelli 
 are a powerful family, but still curti, NOT casa vecchie; would not 
 marry down to a lesser curti house.)
 
 Thanks!!
 chimene
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Re: [h-cost] Amounts of fabric used by lower classes Was: gauging for gathers?

[Wanda Pease]

Considering everything is hand done I have suspicion that the tailor used the 
thing that was readily available, his thumb.  This is what I do in spacing for 
cartridge pleats and it works for me.  Simply the width of my thumb, even if I 
am marking a flat piece.

Otherwise we know they used paper pattern strips which might be marked with 
their favorite pleat width,

Regina

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 12, 2014, at 10:19 AM, RC Sharp r.c.sh...@comcast.net wrote:

 
 It's not a leap to assume that the lower classes couldn't afford the
 yardage to do proper regular pleats, box pleats or cartridge pleats, and
 therefore did indeed gather out of necessity. For example, if one only had
 enough yardage to make a skirt that was 5 inches wider than the hip
 
 Methinks one would be poor indeed to afford only half a skirt from the used 
 garment seller.  g
 
 Don't forget that _new_ fabric was usually a middle class or better market 
 and there was a thriving trade in used stuffs.
 
 -Kate
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Drei Schnittbucher Kickstarter

[Wanda Pease]

Got one!

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 4, 2014, at 10:09 PM, Sigrid Briansdotter sigridki...@hotmail.com 
wrote:

 You may be in luck. There doesn't seem to be a limit on the $45 level now.
 
 Regards,
 Anne
 
 Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 18:11:33 -0800
 From: mae...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drei Schnittbucher Kickstarter
 
 Awwhhh...darn it! I wanted to pledge the 45 and get surprised with a book
 (to go with my copy of Alcega). Alas, the maximum donations in that
 category have already filled and I cannot swing the larger donations.
 Pooey! :(
 
 
 On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Marion McNealy m_mc_ne...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Katherine Barich and I have been working on a book for the last 6 months
 about 3 16th century Master Tailor's pattern books.  We've launched
 a kickstarter to fund the production and publication of the book, here's
 the link for more details. Please share with other lists and people who
 might be interested in this book, its going to be amazing!
 
 
 https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1511672022/drei-schnittbucher-3-16th-c-austrian-master-tailor
 
 Thanks!
 Marion McNealy
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Re: [h-cost] where to buy lucet?

[Wanda Pease]

On the ones I have, both been gives and bought, a good final polish with fine 
grade steel wool makes them smooth as glass.  You want your loops to pull along 
smoothly.  I don't recommend the cheap ones cut with a hack saw from thin 
plywood however.  You may be putting a significant amount of tension on the 
prongs.  



Regina

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 17, 2013, at 6:33 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com 
wrote:

 On 06/17/2013 08:19 PM, Rebecca wrote:
 Where do people purchase their lucets (preferably online)? I'd like to buy a
 few, but am coming up stumped on where I've seen them for sale! Thanks :)
 
 Google is your friend on this one.  Really.
 
 Here's a few of the places I've seen them.  Which ones you pick will depend 
 upon how big a 
 

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Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

[Wanda Pease]

I tend to find these at my local Thrift stores too.  Frequently the pants have 
gotten separated from the rest of the outfit (found one pair in pajamas!).  
Sometimes they never show, but the tunic is long and full enough that I wear it 
as a dress and scarf anyway.  Since I no longer have to conform, i. e. I can be 
excentric, I can wear it to work and get compliments from the young folk.  I'd 
say you have parts.of a Salwar/Kameze outfit.   
You could make pants for it.  The pants don't always match in color says my 
friend from Pakistan.
Wanda

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 1, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Marion McNealy m_mc_ne...@yahoo.com wrote:

 And here are some other ones, http://www.utsavfashion.com/lehenga
 
 - Marion
 
 
 
 From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Sent: Thu, November 1, 2012 2:16:50 AM
 Subject: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
 
 In the interest of historical costume, modern version:
 
 I have a great thrift store outfit I purchased some years ago in the South 
 Bay 
 (San Jose) area. It looks like a typical woman's Punjabi suit consisting of 
 tunic, shawl, and pants-- except there are no pants. There is a long, even on 
 me 
 (5'10) flowing skirt. It's obviously dressy attire. There is gold (?) bullion 
 embroidery on the front of the tunic, and tiny gold seed beads stitched all 
 over 
 the skirt and shawl (wider than the typical Paloo of a sari). Fabric is an 
 abstract print in warm brown and golden tones on a lightweight silk. Lined 
 throughout. It was a very lucky find for me because I am tall and had only to 
 steal fabric from a seam to add a bust room gusset under the arms.
 
 Anybody care to hazard a guess as to this outfit's origins? I'm definitely 
 voting for the Punjab because of the tunic, and thinking perhaps it might be 
 some very formal outfit due to the heavy embroidery. I don't think this list 
 takes attachments, but I do have a pic to post. . . somewhere, or send to 
 whomever is interested.
 
 Thanks!
 
 ==Marjorie Wilser
 
 @..@   @..@   @..@
 Three Toad Press
 http://3toad.blogspot.com/
 
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Re: [h-cost] Modesty vs Silly Putty was (no subject)

[Wanda Pease]

I would question the statement  early Christians  believed that the Virgin 
Mary was impregnated thru the ear..   What evidence do they have for this, or 
is it one of those made up see how stupid our ancestors were?

My experience with wimples is that they are very flattering.  Also, castles and 
most homes in period are quite cool (cold from our point of view) and drafty.  
Many of our pictures show people outside.  That wimple not only can keep you 
warm, but it can protect from sunburn.
  If you are hot, dampen it and you cool right down.  Personal experience.
  I like mine cut as a circle and folded on the bias.  Makes easier to talk and 
eat because of the natural stretch.
  Of course like all fashions it came in and out of favor in various forms over 
the centuries.

Regina

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 23, 2012, at 11:01 PM, Franchesca Havas franchesca.ha...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 I agree with you Marjorie!
 
 Love the comparison. :D
 
 Franchesca
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
 Sent: Friday, March 23, 2012 10:40 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
 
 Sounds like a tremendous load of cr34 to me. Unlike Cin, I do read the Bible
 and there's nothing remotely suggesting anything like a wimple; only advice
 for women praying to cover their heads in modesty. Cover can mean almost
 anything.
 
 Sounds as if the authors were manufacturing facts out of silly putty.
 
 ==Marjorie Wilser
 
  @..@   @..@   @..@
 Three Toad Press
 http://3toad.blogspot.com/
 
 
 On Mar 23, 2012, at 11:03 AM, Laurie Taylor wrote:
 
 Greetings all,
 
 I've been mulling this bit of trivia around in my head for the longest 
 time.
 I think I need to share it and see if any of you know of any support 
 or documentation for this information.
 
 Most Unusual Concession to Modesty: The earliest Christians believed 
 that the Virgin Mary was impregnated through her ear and that other 
 women as well had used their ears as reproductive organs.  For that 
 reason, an exposed female ear was considered no less an outrage than 
 an exposed thigh, and a woman would not appear in public unless clad 
 in a tight-fitting wimple.
 
 Felton, Bruce, and Mark Fowler. Part II, Behavior. The Best, Worst, 
 and Most Unusual: Noteworthy Achievements, Events, Feats and Blunders 
 of Every Conceivable Kind. New York: Galahad, 1994. 428. Print.
 
 So, the wimple had to develop for some reason.  Is this reason 
 believable?
 Documentable?  Are there any other reasons that would be more 
 legitimate based on available documentation?
 
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Re: [h-cost] What costume-related gifts did you get?

[Wanda Pease]

Got The Basics of Corset Building.  I have all the items.  Now a body to 
pattern and make one working corset for the 1890s.  At 65 I want a real corset 
for real clothing.  The days of  being a Vamp are long gone and totally 
uninteresting :-). Anyone else drooling over the OMG That Dress website?


Sent from my iPad

On Dec 26, 2011, at 11:31 AM, Julie Tamura jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com wrote:

 I got a Steampunk necklace my daughter made for me.  
 My daughter got a Victorian dangly choker my husband and I made from real
 Victorian buttons and black glass faceted beads.
 I've gotta get some pictures of these G.
 Husband and daughter got matching Jayne Cobb hats (from Firefly) and yes, he
 has the attitude to carry it off ;-)
 Julie
 
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Re: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles

[Wanda Pease]

On 10/23/2011 6:31 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote:
And your  reply to any inquiries will be of course it's my own hair! 
I paid for it myself. (or just omit the 2nd sentence)



The trick with any kind of hair bits and pieces (and I see from Fran's 
books which I certainly recommend were used extensively) is to match 
your own hair well enough that it isn't evident.  For me this is going 
to be tricky since the shade isn't really blonde, and not fright wig white.


If I get real human hair I suppose it could go in the same dye bath I 
use on my own to even out the color or lack thereof.  It was easier when 
I could pick a color and get away with it, but my skin is firmly saying 
you are 65 and should be proud of it!


Wanda

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Re: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles

[Wanda Pease]

On 10/19/2011 12:54 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

Good afternoon,

I'm putting the finishing touches on my Halloween costume - actually, a
dress from various Truly Victorian patterns.

I need ideas about what to do with my hair. It's long and very straight.

I need something easy that I can do relatively quickly in the morning. It
doesn't need to be historical, I'm already planning on makeup that won't be
historical, but I'd still like something that keeps in with the style of the
period.

Any ideas? References? Pictures? Techniques? I'm all ears...
I have given up on my hair.  I'm looking for a Wig that I will 
style/have styled, keep in a hat box on a stand and put on at need.  
I've never had enough real hair to do those styles and I certainly don't 
have the time or talent to do the stuff in the morning.  Neither did our 
characters which is why the fancy types had maids!


Wanda
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Re: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles

[Wanda Pease]

And why purchased hairpieces were widely used and sold at all times 
when big hair was popular, including in the 1880s  And a hairpiece 
is cheaper and easier to attach than a wig, IMO.


BTW, my book Fashions of the Gilded Age, volume 2, includes pictures 
of late 1870s and early 1880s hairstyles.

Fran

I have your book and it was one of the things that convinced me that 
false hair was the way for me to go.  At the moment I am achieving my 
Teen Dream of being a platinum blonde.  Unfortunately I have a great 
deal less hair than I had as a teenager. Possibly because I attempted to 
become a blonde, and no I didn't have more fun.


Over the years I've tried the hairpieces available and had no luck in 
concealing the join.  I probably need some expert hands on instruction 
in making it all work.


Do you have any sources for these hairpieces, or even a wig that could 
be in-expensive enough to fool with?


Wanda Pease
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Re: [h-cost] FW: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'

[Wanda Pease]

Bummer about the Tax.  Live in California?
  I wrote to my friend Ian Stevens at David Brown Book Company 
(which the announcement said was carrying the book) and low he no longer 
works there.  Since he was my absolute favorite and successful book 
pusher (I'm an addict the way other people are to drugs) they will not 
get my business.  Fortunately Amazon gets enough business on my Amazon 
card that I have rewards coming and got it for $110 with no shipping or 
Tax.  (the day Oregon puts Sales tax on things you will hear about the 
cooling trend in H**l)


Regina Romsey


On 9/16/2011 4:07 PM, Monica Spence wrote:

I ordered mine through Amazon last month for about $125.00 USD (plus tax)
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 3:17 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] FW: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'

Anyone know if this is a good price?
Sharon C.

   _

From: LeonardoLibri [mailto:i...@leonardolibri.com]
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 3:59 AM
To: LeonardoLibri
Subject: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'


  http://www.mauropagliai.it/   

 http://www.polistampa.com  http://www.sarnus.it

Gentile Cliente,

abbiamo il piacere di segnalare l'uscita dell'atteso volume di R. Orsi Landini Moda 
ahttp://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sl.asp?id=5046  Firenze 1540-1580. Cosimo I de' Medici's 
style / Lo stile di Cosimo I de' Medici (testi in italiano e inglese, ordinabile su 
LeonardoLibrihttp://www.leonardolibri.com   con sconto 
20%http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/carrello.asp?id=5046  ).




La moda al tempo dei Medici in un volume
Roberta Orsi Landini ripercorre nel suo libro lo stille fiorentino del 
Cinquecento


'Sobrio, severo, mai eccessivamente guarnito d'oro: questo l'abbigliamento 
scelto da Cosimo I de’ Medici, primo granduca di Toscana eletto al governo 
della città di Firenze all'età di appena 17 anni (nel 1537).Uno stile che 
diverrà poi un modello da seguire,un criterio a cui si sono attenuti anche i 
suoi successori.
Proprio i dettagli dello stile maschile in voga nella Firenze del Cinquecento sono 
raccolti all'interno dl volume Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di Cosimo I de’ 
Medici, a cura di Roberta Orsi Landini, che sarà presentato giovedì 15 settembre al 
Rondò di Bacco di Palazzo Pitti, impreziosito da oltre 120 tavole a colori.
Nel suo regno Cosimo abbellisce il Palazzo della Signoria, sede del governo 
dello Stato e sua residenza per circa vent'anni, con ristrutturazioni, 
affreschi e opere d'arte, ma nell'abbigliamento sceglie un guardaroba 
improntato alla modestia, senza seguire mode straniere o fugaci. Vuole che i 
suoi abiti, caratterizzati dallo stile severo, siano confezionati localmente 
con lane e con sete, per dare un sostegno all'economia della città. Preferisce 
indossare abiti con guarnizioni in oro solo nelle apparizioni ufficiali, dove 
la sua persona deve testimoniare la potenza e la ricchezza dello stato.
Nel volume di Roberta Orsi Landini viene ricostruito il guardaroba di Cosimo, 
dagli abiti di uso quotidiano alle vesti da cerimonia, passando per calzature e 
accessori. L'analisi di ogni capo comprende note sulla sua provenienza, sulla 
fattura, sul tipo e sulla quantità di stoffa necessari alla fabbricazione, 
oltre a un attento esame delle decorazioni. Tra le particolarità l'uso a scopo 
sanitario del martingala, elemento ritrovato nelle calze funerarie del 
granduca.(ANSA).

Cordiali saluti,

Ufficio Promozione Mauro Pagliai




http://www.mauropagliai.it/default.asp  Home Page   


   http://www.mauropagliai.it/public/images/modaaf99.JPG

Sconto 20 %http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/carrello.asp?id=5046


Carrello

   http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/1x1.gif   
http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sl.asp?stampa=veroid=5046

   http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/stampa.gif
Stampa ottimizzata

http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/1x1.gif   
Roberta Orsihttp://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sa.asp?id=5730  Landini

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580
Cosimo I de' Medici's style / Lo stile di Cosimo I de' Medici







After Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua 
influenza (2005), the research project goes on, now with male clothing of the 
same period. Thanks to the papers from the Archivio di Stato of Florence, the 
author reconstructs the whole wardrobe of Eleonora’s husband, Cosimo I de’ 
Medici, day by day from 1544 until 1574, that is from the first time notes 
about the duke’s clothes appeared in official documents till the death of 
Cosimo. The founder of the grand-ducal dynasty created his public image with 
great care and determination, but Roberta Orsi Landini focus attention as well 
on Cosimo I’s personal tastes. The book describes fashion development in 
Florence through the analysis of items from the duke’s wardrobe and makes 
confrontations with 

Re: [h-cost] Moda da Firenzie: Cosimo I

[Wanda Pease]

On 2/13/2011 7:16 AM, Charlene Charette wrote:

When the first book came out I ordered a dozen directly from the
publisher and got a really good discount. They sold so quickly I
regretted not getting more. If you have a group of friends who are
interested, you might consider gettting them from the publisher.

--Charlene

I tried getting my first copy through the publisher.  I was actually in 
Germany and England at the time and was able to get a cheque in Euros 
and everything.  The book finally appeared almost a year later.  I 
finally ordered through the American distributor.  I am so glad that 
others had a much better experience than I did, but after that 
experience I don't feel comfortable tying up that amount of money and 
depending on them.


Wanda

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Re: [h-cost] Moda da Firenzie: Cosimo I

[Wanda Pease]

On 2/13/2011 8:57 PM, Charlene Charette wrote:



Generally, I don't think publishers are very good at individual
orders. Bulk orders are more normal for them.

--Charlene



Maybe that was it.  I couldn't understand why it was so hard to get them 
to take my money by credit card, by Euro-check, anything!  I wonder if 
there are enough Italian Renn types in the local area with money (the 
with money is the real hard part at the moment) to let us get up a 
larger order.  Otherwise it's talk sweet to Ian, and let everyone who 
has to buy in onsies and twosies that David Brown has it.


Besides, I want Ian to be able to buy David Brown.  Then wheedle him 
into getting me an unsold copy of the Huge set on Elizabeth put out by 
the University of Warwick based on the three enormous volumes put 
together by J.D. Nichols from original documents still extant in the 
1780's!  I knew when they took this project on it was going to be bad, 
in fact so bad that no individual would be able to afford it (why 
couldn't they have done it on CD (because the original is 3,000 pages 
and ... Sigh) but $1,000.00 is just not going to happen.  Not just the 
original information, but scholarly glosses on each item.


Whine
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[h-cost] Moda da Firenzie: Cosimo I

[Wanda Pease]

Did I miss this one, or has some mentioned that the companion volume to 
the Eleonora of Toledo Moda a Firenzie book is coming out this 
spring/Summer.  I got a flyer in my Facebook of all places from David 
Brown Book company.  They are flogging it for $100 when the expected 
cover price is $125.


http://www.oxbowbooks.com/pdfs/leaflets/Renaissance445.pdf   (I know 
this says Oxbowbooks on it, but David Brown is their American flogger! 
and has some truly EVIL stuff.  Those who love Norse may become deeply 
indebted to them.


It's in this leaflet.  I've written to Ian Stevens about missing out on 
telling me the second it was offered, hoping to reserve a copy.  Anyone 
going to KZoo might be able to sneak a peek at the David Brown table.


Wanda/Regina
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[h-cost] Fwd: Medieval Garments Reconstructed - offer from DBBC

[Wanda Pease]

Okay, so I am a sucker for David Brown books and a very happy customer.  
If you haven't already seen this offer -  here it is.  This one arrived 
at the same time as the book.  I think Ian has figured out that I don't 
necessarily note down when I buy a book like this and can be persuaded 
to order a second one because I couldn't live without the title.


If you get a chance to meet him in the Book room at KZoo, you will enjoy 
talking to him a lot.  His thing isn't books, it's the oh! shiny! that 
books produce.  He likes the information, and he likes the people who 
like the information.  He may never get rich, but he will make a lot of 
people happy.


The book is European Paper size,  and 140 pages.  It has a lot of color 
pictures towards the front third with the last 2/3rds being layouts.  
There is a nice little literature/bibliography to make up the last Page 
with a list of abbreviations.  Nice to have.  Nice to round out a 
collection.


Regina Romsey

Dear Wanda Pease


We have just received the long-awaited Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse 
Clothing Patterns from its publisher, Aarhus University Press, in Denmark.

The book is a companion volume to Woven into the Earth: Textile Finds in Norse 
Greenland, which came out in 2004, and which we also sell.

This is a remarkable book. It contains a condensed introduction to the original 
textile finds and then there are historical discussions of the production of 
the thread, dyeing and weaving techniques and the cutting and sewing of the 
garments. Next comes the practical part of the book, presenting measurements 
and drawings of garments, hoods and stockings with sewing instructions and 
patterns.

The book is priced at $40, but is offered, until the end of January at $30, a 
25% savings. We hope you will take advantage!

With regards,

Ian Stevens
DBBC
Tel: 800-791-9354


-

'Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns' - by Else Ostergard, 
Anna Norgard and Lilli Fransen, translated by Shelly Nordtorp-Madson
List Price: US$ 40.00 * Our Price: US$ 30.00 *
Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/67558/MID/28999

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Re: [h-cost] how museums can help costumers

[Wanda Pease]

On 11/12/2010 4:55 AM, Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. wrote

: Snip  Additionally, there are some museums that are unwilling to put 
up details and hi-res photos up because of copyright issues.
Ah the dread Copyright issue and who actually owns historic items, 
particularly those in publicly funded institutions (those that are 
completely privately funded are a different story - don't Hit Me!).  
Along with the who owns Human History issue.  There is going to have 
to be some kind of accommodation made so that both parties come out of 
this well.  Think of all the books that were lost when the Danube 
flooded and destroyed them.  The items we know only from a few black and 
white photos because war washed across the museums/castles/places where 
they were kept and they are forever gone and heartbreaking for everyone 
but should be most for those whose entire lives are devoted to keeping 
such safe and, hopefully available, to scholars.


The items that are being so desperately protected for their copyright 
value are simply candles in the wind.  Ask the museums in San Francisco 
about the work they are doing getting their collections up since they 
Know how vulnerable they are.  Here in Oregon we never thought of 
anything much.  Even the big Volcano going off about 20 years ago didn't 
strike at real populated areas (watch out Seattle though!).  However 
that little shake a few years back put a large library of medieval 
manuscripts in severe danger as part of the Abbey they are stored, and 
generously open to the public with request, was severely damaged by a 
fault we didn't quite realize was there.


Personnel are a problem, but Google and at one time Micro Soft had done 
a lot to solve the digitization problem to get things up on the web for 
all of us and EEBO for those who can pay for it.  Possibly something 
similar could be done for items like paintings and other such items 
could be worked out?


More available knowledge can only be a blessing.  Now we have to see how 
we can make that a blessing for both the holders of the original items 
and those who want to see but not necessarily touch :-)  We need a 
win/win situation for both because if the originals aren't carefully 
cared for we all lose, if they aren't known to exist or aren't available 
except to a very few, many of us lose.


Ask ten different scientists about the environment, population control, 
genetics, and you'll get ten different answers, but there's one thing 
every scientist on the planet agrees on. Whether it happens in a hundred 
years or a thousand years or a million years, eventually our Sun will 
grow cold and go out. When that happens, it won't just take us. It'll 
take Marilyn Monroe, and Lao-Tzu, and Einstein, Babylon 5, Sheridan, 
InfectionThe same applies to natural disaster anywhere on the planet 
at one time or another.  It will happen and it will take all that lovely 
copyright material with it and not care at all.  Check with the 
Babylonians to see how much of their culture survived.


Wanda
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Re: [h-cost] how museums can help costumers

[Wanda Pease]

I work for a museum. We have a grand total of 4 staff. We all wear so many hats 
we can't keep track of them all. Personally, I'm responsible for the 
collection, the exhibitions, all museum security, the desktop publishing, 
supervising student fellows and work-studies, managing the climate control 
system, the museum shop, and more.
I'd LOVE to have that level of detail for everything in the collection even for 
our own purposes let alone for interested visitors, but it's neither a time nor 
financial possibility at the moment...

Astrida
Astrida,  I really do understand your problem.  There are many museums I 
was able to wander through in Germany that aren't open any longer 
because the personnel simply aren't there and the people who do know the 
collections are simply not computer literate, nor do computers 
necessarily speed things up!


 Much as I cringe to suggest this would a cadre of volunteers help?  I 
don't mean young, hot shot computer experts although some of Tudor 
Talkers might be great for this.  I'm thinking of the wonderful guides 
I've had in various cities of older people who love their cities and now 
they have retired have time to devote to guiding and other things.  Here 
in the States I'm always surprised at the number of people in their 80's 
and over who are not only computer literate, but desperate for something 
that they can do to keep their minds and fingers busy.  I'm looking 
forward to taking classes that wouldn't do me any good for work, but 
that fascinate me (medieval/Tudor history).  I'd be happy to learn any 
computer program you might need to help put things on-line if we were 
anywhere close.  Digitizing books is one thing I could definitely do, 
and I'm used to working at least 40 hours a week.


Wanda
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Re: [h-cost] Brocade and Fair Use

[Wanda Pease]

Sigh, can we call this a dead horse and stop beating it?  If there was 
anything interesting mingled with the comments that go on every year I 
didn't see them.  Just took the thread and related and deleted them.  
Waste of bandwidth.  Personally I am in a position to either buy the 
book from a second hand dealer, or order it from Inter Library Loan.  
Thus stealing the bread from the mouths of the children of the starving 
publishers since, unless self published, or a Best Seller, the authors 
of academic stuff get little or nothing for their hard work.


On the other hand I wrote and asked the head Librarian of Purdue 
University if I could make a DVD of three volumes on Elizabeth printed 
between 1789 and 1821.  Answer was sure, as long as you don't sell 
them.  Could we have a copy or two?  Not all museums and libraries 
consider the researcher their rightful prey.


Wanda

On 5/13/2010 5:42 AM, Beteena Paradise wrote:

I think in order to make your question more closely resemble the current issue, you need 
to add the words 700 years after your death.

To the list in general and not specifically Ann (too lazy to do a seperate 
email):
I left this list for a few years and have just recently returned. I witnessed these conversations way too many times. I see little has changed. Can't we just all admit that there are certain issues which are triggers for some of us and just leave it at that without having to rehash them ad nauseum? There really is no need to jump into the list with swords swinging just because someone mentioned something that happens to be close to your own personal soapbox. 
  



__
   


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Re: [h-cost] A strange question

[Wanda Pease]

On 3/27/2010 12:38 PM, Käthe Barrows wrote:

There is a magic in creating something that the SCA has lost a bit of since
I joined in 1979.
 
I should have mentioned that I am a Laurel in costuming, and have been 
for some time.  I understand the magic of trying to make something as 
closely as possible to the original, and I encourage it as much as is 
humanly possible.  My preferred period is Herician/Elizabethan (lots of 
fitting) and do it well enough to have gotten my Laurel in it.  I do the 
corsetry not only to smooth out the upper body, but to help my back 
since it supports it far better than a bra.  For the Steam Punk I have a 
completely different corset, and use the Mature Figure gowns ( I think 
hour-glass as a concept was born in the Mauve Generation.)


When I started, you took a wedding gown pattern and altered it and got 
all sorts of big eyes when it did work out.  Then we learned about metal 
grommets.  We learned about plaquets (they didn't have them).  Finally 
wonderful people like Margo did pattern lines for anything from the body 
on up.


As for the old chestnut about telling someone that's not period not 
being period.  I just wish someone would enforce it by gently and 
humorously  stopping the problem at the source rather than spreading a 
single occasion all over the internet as though it happened at every 
event constantly.  If it has happened to you, I'm sorry.  I tend to 
prefer the wide eyed really?  What would you do to make it better?


I still can't wear either my SCA or Steam Punk outfits to work.  I don't 
tend to find the type of business clothing offered to us off the rack 
types to be beautiful and appropriate no matter how I corset myself.  I 
still love the SCA and Steam Punk events where I can wear things with 
glitz or lace.


I also like the concept of putting found objects together to get 
something else that works.  I remember being told that the wonder finial 
on one person's tent was actually an antique toilet float, spray painted 
gold.  The same person had another that consisted of a basket ball, a 
large soft ball, and a tennis ball, one atop the other all painted gold 
for another finial.


Reworking found objects; wearing glitz and lace and meeting many other 
people who actually think and read and...  is the thing that keeps me 
coming back.  Certainly no one in my office, all of whom have 
responsible jobs as do I thinks about much besides their kids, the 
football/baseball, other things.  Heaven help you if you slip off track 
and wear something different (at my age I don't give a flying leap so I 
occasionally show up in a Sari, or a Salwar and Camese.  I have to avoid 
those gowns that need a hood of some type - English or French since I 
can't answer the phone well in that.)  Fortunately I don't work in a 
place that has a dress code.


We are fighting the old battle of the fun mavens versus the period 
mavens.  Actually we are probably both on the same side in that there is 
a very happy medium as well as great joy in getting everything exactly 
right and feeling like you stepped out of a painting.


It is the magic of making the found item work as something medieval with 
a little tweaking that I sometimes miss in the SCA.  In Steam Punk 
almost anything goes and laughter is the best medicine.  The feeling of 
Oh wow!  I never thought of using X for Xy  How cool is that.


Regina
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Re: [h-cost] non paned trunkhose pre 1600

[Wanda Pease]

I've been reading Mistress Blanche: Queen Elizabeth 1's Confidante.  The 
cover picture is the one titled: Queen Elizabeth greeting the Dutch 
Emissaries.  In the background there is a woman the author tentatively 
identifies as Blanche standing next to a Gentleman in gray whom she 
identifies as Sir Christopher Hatton.  Although his pumpkin pants 
appear to be made up of panes, there isn't lining showing through, nor 
does the lining show on the other men you can see in the picture.  I 
wonder if the panes might have actually been sewed together like that 
for shaping purposes?


I do recommend the book for those interested in the people in 
Elizabeth's life.  Mistress Blanche (she is given that title in letters 
to her and about her during her lifetime which is an interesting item of 
SCA type information - that Mistress could be considered a proper title 
for a highly placed and born woman.)


Regina Romsey

From: Elizabeth Walpoleelizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] non paned trunkhose pre 1600
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 23:37:35 +1100

Good evening all,

I've been asked to help a friend make a pair of Elizabethan trunkhose (aka
punpkin pants) and they have requested plain single layer trunkhose but all
the extant examples of single layer (instead of panes with the lining pulled
out through the slashes) in Patterns of Fashion are post 1600. So far I've
not been able to find a pictorial or extant example of pre 1600 plain
trunkhose (despite the number of examples I see in this style in modern
costuming) I'm not going to actually make a pair of paned trunkhose (as this
plus a doublet have to be complete by Easter) but I would like to know
whether it is period or a reenactorism.
Any leads on period examples of non paned trunkhose would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks
Elizabeth
__
   


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Re: [h-cost] OT regional English for mangle

[wanda pease]

I remember reading about immigrants to the US prior to about 1950.  The very
first thing that they, or those that were coming up in the world did when
the family got a little money coming in to spend on Mom was to hire the
washing done.  My brother has a collection of washing widgets (only one
machine that worked with Electricity!).  It must have been backbreaking work
for a single woman, and even a woman and daughters.

During the Depression of the 1930's my mother was in college (poor as church
mice, but they lived in Corvallis, Oregon near Oregon State University).
When the President of the College realized that they were going to loose all
those students who were only just barely making it (my mother and
grandmother spent every summer working in the fruit canneries to make her
tuition and Grandmother worked in one of the Sorority houses as a kitchen
maid) he decreed that every employee of the College would contribute one
days pay a month to one of these scholars.  In order to make it up to the
College secretary that sponsored my mother my grandmother did the lady's
silk unmentionables by hand and returned them clean, ironed and properly
folded!

Many women didn't trust their delicate under things which were frequently
silk, or fine clothing to washing machines until fairly late.  Washing
machines sold like hot cakes though.  Wonderful for those big, heavy sheets
and workman's pants or skirts.

The mangle my neighbor gave me came from the early 1950's.  She told me
about ironing the frills on her daughter's dressed as well as doing sheets
and table cloths.  It took skill to do that!

The washer with ringer that was in our home was fairly old when I remember
pouring an entire box of washing detergent (powder) into it and having suds
everywhere!  I wasn't allowed to actually use the wringer part because of
the danger of getting hand, hair, or even dress caught and dragged through
it.  Besides, I couldn't reach that high!.

I do remember hating having to put up the wash on the clothes line and then
get it in.  At least we had drying wires in the basement for when it got
cold or rainy!  My mother even had special racks to insert into pants so
they would dry with a crease in them!  Ironing meant sprinkling each piece
with a little water and rolling it up then putting it in a plastic bag so
that everything got evenly damp so you could iron it.  This was before steam
irons but after the old sad-irons that heated on the top of the stove.

No one really saw the need for indoor dryers until the mid to late 1950's in
my neighborhood.

After WWII, Britain continued to have rationing for several years.
Rationing in the US disappeared almost as soon as the war ended.

Wanda

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]on
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT regional english for mangle


Ok, Guys and Gals,
 there is obviously a terminology divide between the UK and the USA, as well
as a Time divide here.
May I put in a comments from an ageing Britisher?
 Most of you who remember an ironing mangle  being used by your female
relatives seem to have grown-up in the USA, post WW2 - quite a long way
after, at that.

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Re: [h-cost] Washing, ironing, and running repairs - was an amusing error

[wanda pease]

Having used both a Mangle AND a wringer I can tell you both that they are
two different pieces of equipment.  Much the same in basic construction, but
used for different things.

I am old enough to have used a Wringer type washing machine when I was
little.  The Wringer was used to put the wet, rinsed clothing through to
squeeze out as much water as possible before the items were hung out on the
clothes line (yep, no dryers).

The mangle was a heated long roller that you put the clean, dry or damp
clothing into (a pant leg, a table cloth, the ruffles on a little girl's
dress all depending on how good you were to press them the way we iron
clothing today.  I happen to have one given me by my older neighbor that I
use to iron long pieces of pre-washed fabric, or table cloths.  I'm not good
enough to do the fine ironing that you can do.

The Mangle roller is quite hot and covered in fabric a bit like a modern
ironing board.  You could spritz water onto either it, or the clothing and
release a leaver which brought the heated roller down and pressed the fabric
between  it and the base plate.  Found out the hard way to put a basket
under the spot where the ironed cloth came out to keep it clean.  I use it
in the garage because it is very heavy and it gives me room to stretch out
the cloth.

In a way you are both right.  A wringer wrings extra water out of cloth (and
hands, and hair, and things that get caught that shouldn't.  They are a
menace that way.

A mangle irons the damp or dry cloth or clothing.  First you wring out the
cloth and dry it to a barely damp or dry condition with the wringer and
clothes line (ecologically friendly dryer).  After the cloth is damp or dry
you use the Mangle to iron it flat.

One goes with the washer, the other is a large scale iron.

Wanda Pease who still loves her Mangle for pressing 10 yards of pre-washed
fabric before cutting it out.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]on
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 9:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing, irioning,and running repairs - was an
amusing error


--- On Sun, 17/1/10, R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu wrote:
Mangle is a rotary iron usually used for table linens and other 'flat'
items.? A Wringer

COMMENT
Dear Mr Mitchell,
 if you look at
http://victorians.swgfl.org.uk/themes/personal_health/mangleobj.htm#
there you'll see what the Victorians and Edwardians called a mangle. My
Grandma, [born in 1875, and died 1958], had one just like the one shown in
the colour picture at that URL
Maybe it was called a wringer in the USA  or even just in Washington
State, - I wouldn't know.
My Grandma and her three daughters all referred to it as a  mangle - and
so does Shropshire Museum Services' Northgate Museum  at Bridgenorth, -
where they have one on display.

Cordially,
 Julain Wilson,
 old Jersey.


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Re: [h-cost] Steampunk ideas

[wanda pease]

I made the split skirt and was very happy with the way it went together and
the directions.  I am a total incompetent when it comes to reading pattern
directions, which it why I drape my own or throw them away.  I'm always
saying you want me to do WHAT! since they are written in a dialect of
English I've never learned.

The Truly Victorian split skirt was different.  It has turned out well.  I
am short so I wish I had cut it to the Bicycle length which would have been
perfectly above floor length on my 5'2 frame.  I made it out of wool and
the next time I use the pattern I will flat line with something like a
lining cotton or some of the cheap linen I bought a lot of and have
regretted ever since (think of bandages and you get the idea of the weave).
As it is not I wear a pair of ankle length rayon pajama bottoms with elastic
in the ankle.

I have since bought the full skirt pattern and the Edwardian Corset as well
as a busk. I think the corset is going to need a buddy to fit though!

Look out when fitting the leggings for the fatted Calf phenomenon.  I have
lovely late Victorian style boots (half boots) that actually zip the side,
or would except for those of us who eat well and exercise rarely.

Regina in Portland, Oregon (gotta watch out or they will put you in Maine!)

Subject: [h-cost] Steampunk ideas


I am looking for a pattern, available in plus sizes, for a military-looking
Steampunk outfit.  I plan to do a sporting-type suit, and was wondering if
anyone knows about Truly Victorian's split skirt and 183 Riding Habit Bodice
or Laughing Moon's 1890's Sporting Costume with Leggings patterns?

I have never used either maker, but I am a very experienced historical
costumer.

Ever,
Regina in L.A.
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Re: [h-cost] cleaning up a wool gown

[Wanda Pease]

Alexandria Doyle wrote:

I have a wool gown that I need to clean-up/freshen up for wear this
weekend.  The last outing with this black wool 15th century kirtle was
at a dusty/windy camp ground.  The skirt is covered with dried grass
and such.  What is the quickest way to get all this grass and debris
off the skirt?  I keep thinking brushing is the term I've heard used,
but never done so.  I've always used tape on wool skirts to remove pet
hair (my usual clingy debris).  Is there a particular type of brush I
should use?  Stick with the tape?

  
I've found a pet hair brush that I absolutely love.  I have two long 
haired cats that don't charge for furring my garments. It is basically a 
wand with a layer of Velcro/velvet like substance.  You brush against 
the tilt of the velvet substance then push a little lever that combs the 
hair out and puts it in a little box on the back.  You swish it through 
one way and then the other and it cleans the outer surface for you to 
make more swipes.  I got it at Rite Aide in the Seen on TV spots.  Works 
like a charm and doesn't have to be pulled off and have sticky things 
around to stick to your cat's paws (so funny).


Wanda
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Re: [h-cost] Native American fiber sources

[Wanda Pease]

otsisto wrote:


 You can get everything you need from animal sources, even without wooly
sheep. Sinew makes a good cord, and NA's were known to use it. Bark was also
used, but I don't think in pounded form, such as you find in Africa and
Polynesia.

Kim
I remember one of the local Ranger Shows at Yellowstone talking about 
Indian dogs.  They used to pull travois before horses became common, and 
their undercoat made fabric.  Anyone who has one of the long haired 
breeds like Husky knows that you can practically make two other dogs out 
of the hair they shed every time you groom them.  The Ranger said that 
the particular breed had died out or been interbred so much with those 
brought in with the settlers that you can't identify them specifically  
any longer. 

Even now there are people who will spin and weave you something from 
your dogs shed hair for a price.  I saw a lovely  big bag like a 
pilgrim's script made from the undercoat of a Labrador Retriever, so 
having long hair isn't a requirement.  Having a nice thick undercoat 
would be the way to go.


Wanda
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[h-cost] Browned lace Edwardian? Collars

[Wanda Pease]

I just opened a box of my mother's which must have been put away by her
mother not long after she married in 1900.  It has several lace neck pieces.
There are collars, both stand up and smooth around the neckline, one
gorgeous one that is a high neck with points across the shoulders and one
down the front.  Two that are attached to dickies/partlets and must be to
fill in the front of a deep V neck.

Being totally ignorant about lace... were they ever supposed to be white?
The most beautiful three are ecru (?) or a coffee with lots of cream shade.
I'm not silly enough to put them in a bleaching solution.  I thought putting
them out in the sunlight maybe?

Are they supposed to be that color?  If they are how do you wear them?  On a
plain necked white blouse?  How about the two that are on a dickie/partlet
(sleeveless sheer that is just long enough to go under the arms with the
decoration at the neckline and throat).  They can't go on over a shirt if
the shirt is to be seen.  Something like a deep V vest?  One of the
partlet's seems to be almost elastic in that the mesh stretches enough so it
will go over my front without pulling.

They aren't Perfect in that they have been worn and used but they are all in
very good shape for being over 100 years old now.  I'd like to be able to
wear them for special occasions, or even know how they looked and were worn
when my Grandmother owned them.

I never knew her, she died 15 years before I was born.  In the same box was
the little gold (not expensive I'm sure) fob watch she had been given as a
college (!) graduation present.  She had spent 2 years at Normal School
after graduating from High School and received a teaching degree.  The watch
must have been precious to her because it came with her when she married,
trekked west from Wisconsin to homestead in South Dakota (you still could
then), lost everything (don't try and homestead in South Dakota = ever!),
and followed by grandfather with their two little girls around the West
working at whatever they could (this isn't the first economic downturn with
hints of the Great Depression!.  They finally wound up in Oregon where the
oldest daughter, after being a maid for a year, decided she was going to
College (in 1925!) and they moved to Corvallis, Oregon and everyone worked
to put her through a degree as a Dietician.  Sadly she died while doing her
internship in California - appendectomies were touch and go then - she died
on the table.

My grandfather was run down by a Model Tee car he was cranking and that left
Grandmother and my mother alone.  My mother decided that she was going to
college too since they lived right at Oregon State College.  She and my
Grandmother went to work to make it happen.  Mother said that whenever
anyone told Grandmother that her daughter should forget this silliness and
get a job they would be told No! in no uncertain manner.

Mother graduated as a pharmacist in 1934.  I wish I'd known Jenni Mae Horn
(or Horne as her guardian insisted on spelling it).  She wasn't born to
wealth, but she was born to comfort.  She made it through some very hard
times and kept her family together and going when it would have been easy to
simply quit.

I'm getting that watch fixed and passing it to the Great Grand-daughters of
Jenni Mae Horn-Gilbert.  I may give it to their mother, my nephew's wife and
ask her to wear it and tell them the story so they will associate it with
her as well as family history.

Wanda


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Re: [h-cost] More black ruffs?

[Wanda Pease]

Sorry, I'm confused.  Are you looking for entire ruffs that are black.  Made
from black fabric?  Or are you looking for a ruff (colored or white) with
black edging?  The edging would seem to be not uncommon, I just have never
seen portraits of anyone wearing a black ruff for the basis.  What an
interesting find if you do!  Please be sure and share.

Regina

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]on
 Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
 Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:45 PM
 To: therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com; h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] More black ruffs?



 I was almost sure I had seen a discussion on this before, but am
 unable to find it in the archives of either list.
 I have scanned QEW but not seen anything...so I figured I'd ask you.

 I am looking for pictorial or inventory evidence of black ruffs
 -black lace would be nice.  1500~1600.



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[h-cost] Sotheby's Auction Catalogues

[Wanda Pease]

For the last two years I've been getting on-line catalogues of Sotheby's
Auctions.  You can sign up with them and get the catalogue to browse for
free.  The most recent one was for Old Master Paintings.  These aren't in
any museum (yet) and probably few if any Art books.  I suspect that I found
out about this service through this list, but just to let anyone else know
who has signed on recently.

https://www.sothebys.com/app/servlets/RegistrantServlet?action=login_registr
ant  will allow you to register to get these free browseable catalogues.  If
they aren't your field of interest you can just delete the message.  All
kinds of things.

I've been drooling over and picking at the latest sale of Old Master
Paintings.  It has a wonderful selection/zoom feature and you can find out
other things about the particular painting. Not all the good stuff is in
museums.  There are still plenty of items in private hands that aren't in
the books either.

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
An insult is like a drink, it can only
affect you if you accept it

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Re: [h-cost] Layering in pursuit of the Holbein Look....Costume JournalVol 42...

[Wanda Pease]

Saragrace,

I had the same problem while reading the article.  I finally had to go 
to
page 26 where there is a cutaway version of the entire bodice ensemble and
actually number them from the text. I think the biggest problem comes from
the fact that the innermost garment in period seems to have so many names
and so many people fighting for their particular nomenclature :-)

Here is what I got:
1.  Bottom layer next to skin:  Smock (Chemise, shirt, whatever you 
want to
call it. Personally I wish we would agree on a name and WE  stick with it
through the ages using that word as the definition for whenever an original
source uses something else.)
2.  The petticote (kirtle... Driving me crazy with name changes here 
:-)  I
have no idea about the difference, or if there is one either.  Which was a
skirt and bodice (un-boned) together that provided necessary underskirt in
lieu of hoops
3.  The kirtle (boned slightly but with at least 1.25 or more inches 
free
of boning at the neckline which appears higher than that of the Gown itself.
The claim here seems to be that the jeweled neckline was temporarily
mounted.
4.  Then the gown - Unboned.

I've spent the day looking through a lot of Tudor paintings books along
with masses of Elizabethan.  I'm not sure I agree entirely, but I'm planning
on continuing to learn until death.  I've decided I'm really just a costume
mutt.  My eyes glaze and I have this compulsion when garb/costume/clothing
is mentioned.  One reason why I like the depth and breadth of this list.

Lovely Volume.  I was interested in the Airsaid and particularly the 1617
suite of clothing.  I do wish that they had included the underclothing.  The
body seems to have mummified rather than decayed.  Oh well, now we know it
exists we can keep an eye out for more publication!

Regina Romsey



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
 Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 8:24 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Layering in pursuit of the Holbein LookCostume
 JournalVol 42...

 Hi all, I was just reading the article in The Journal of the
 Costume Society, Vol 42, 2008.  I am hoping to generate some
 discussion but also hoping to hear from the authors...Jane
 Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya Mikhaila.

 My first question is from Figure 6 on page 27.  I just want to
 confirm what I think I see.  I think the wearer is wearing in
 this (order) a smock, then a kirtle (no stiffening?) then a
 partially boned pair of bodies which looks like an 'un-strapped'
 version of the Pfalzgrafin Dorothea Sabina Von Neuberg's  corset
 which is cut off  (just at?) the nipple.

 My second question, is how does one differentiate between a
 petticoat and a kirtle, (assuming both have attached bodices).
 Is it just that the kirtle is 'done' in a fashion fabric?

 Thanks!

 Sg


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Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics

[Wanda Pease]

I have a hard time when they give you a canned reasoned response about not
enough people sewing any more so they have to cut back on unprofitable
lines.  I live in a small city (Portland, Oregon)  I went to three of my
favorite fabric stores today on a quest to see where I could get what for a
specific project that hasn't quite jelled yet.  Big Fabric Stores!  Two
cater to home sewers, and one to crafters and sewers.  All were quite busy.
My favorite is Fabric Depot, nearly one square block of fabrics, home
decorator and notions.  There must have been over 300 men and women
shopping.  Granted, they were having a 40% off sale, but that's not an
abnormal number on a Saturday even without that.  I've even been there on a
week-day and there are usually at least 50 patrons wandering the aisles.

The second is a little Pakistani Shop that has fabric piled to the ceiling
and reminds me of Las Angeles, except that they don't bargain.  Just basic
shop size, but at least 14 people buying everything from 60 wide velvets to
1970's neon paisley :-) and everything in between.  This is also where I get
my cone thread (not made for sergers), stone and sequined trim, and other
shiny do dads.

Third was JoAnns Super Store.  They tried to move to the chintzy flat fold
table and their customer base went away.  They were left with a bit of cheap
cotton quilting stuff and lots of craft products.  The big sewing stores
almost wiped them out.  They put in decent fabric again to about 1/4 of the
store and got enough of their clientele back to keep going.  Surprisingly
enough, the better fabric they get, the more customers.  They had to put the
cotton quilters stuff in a separate area because the actual sewing fabric
with patterns and high end sewing machines (also lower end stuff) crowded it
out and made them more money.

Now, Portland has at least one more very large store - Mill Ends, (also
nearly a block square) that does a brisk business in fabric and notions for
the home sewer. From the person who is making new curtains, to the ones who
are making Bridal Dresses that last more than a single wearing to those who
want clothing that fits and flatters and is made from fabrics and colors to
fit their needs.

Portland also has a Pendleton Woolen Mills outlet with $8-10 a yard, what
you see is what you get fabric, and buttons by the bin (literally) full,
$.05 each.  They even have Ultra Suede (the good stuff) in a couple of
colors at $15.00 a yard.

If you want to cross the Columbia river you can find the other Pendleton
Woolen Mill outlet with the $3.99-5.99 and up stuff as well as clothing with
price tags that will give you a heart attack (up, not down).  I've gotten
woolens ranging from blanket weight/coat weight, to stuff so fine you could
pull it through a wedding ring; perfect for veiling since it seems to flow
like water.

These stores aren't here because Portland is some kind of a time warp town
where people sew their own clothes more than they do in Leavenworth, Kansas.
They are here because the people spend money.  They spend the money because
there are fabrics to buy that are more flattering than the Princess Pony
stuff you buy for your daughter's Halloween costume or a quilt project.
People buy because the stuff is available.

When the $1.00 a yard, flat fold table stuff drives the $10.00 a yard and
above suiting, silk, blends, etc. out, because it's cheap that's all you
will get.  The Wal-Marts of the world will wisely tell you that is all
people are willing to pay so that's all they stock and some people will
swallow the notion hook-line-and-sinker.

When real sewers see that all they can get at the store is junk except for
the occasional find they stop going and they stop buying.  Then the store
wisely tells you and your friends that no one sews any longer and it isn't
profitable to handle.

It's a self-fulfilling prophesy.  Junk so bad (usually) that it isn't worth
buying because it will fall apart quickly, or not do what you want because
it is the wrong weight, or dead dinosaur (polyester) is too expensive even
at $1.00 a yard.

If your Wal-Mart has stopped selling fabric, there is a niche market waiting
to be filled by someone.  Unfortunately it isn't cheap to get started, but
it can be done.  We have a shop here in Portland that specializes only in
natural fabrics, and unusual pattern companies.  The prices aren't cheap,
but she isn't going out of business either.  In fact she often refers
customers to the other stores when she doesn't have exactly what they want!

For those who have been completely fabric deprived by the machinations of a
huge business...  There's the Internet; I hear the screaming now but it's
almost all that is left.

If you still have some independent fabric merchants talk to them, patronize
them, and good luck to you!

Regina

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
 Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 7:05 PM
 To: Historical 

Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabric dept.

[Wanda Pease]

Driven all the independent fabric stores out of business within a fair sized
radius by low-balling them and now THEY go out of the Fabric business?
Seems typical.  Drive all other possible competition out and leave room only
for the cheap, Chinese stuff, made by people earning cents an hour with few
safety features, less health regulations, and outlawed unions.  This tends
to make the $1.00 a yard stuff too expensive.  Particularly if you are an
unemployed fabric maker in the Carolinas.  Might as well send .50 to China
and .50 to the Walton family.

I think I'll continue to praise the Powers that Be that Wal-Mart hasn't
succeeded in taking over Portland and environs (several towns around are
fighting it tooth and nail because of its eventual buy from us or die
strategy.  Pendleton Wool at $4.99 a yard, linen at less than that if you
know what you are looking for and are ready when the sales come up.

Wanda



 Today I was informed that since things have settled down,
 Wal-Mart feels it
 is safe to go ahead with it's plan to get rid of their fabrics.
 New Stores will not have the fabric dept. Some stores will phase out the
 fabric dept. and a few will have 2 and 3 yard pieces for sale.
 I was told at one store that they will no longer be ordering for the $1.00
 table. They have already stopped ordering replacement of many of their non
 sale fabrics, like satin.
 So if you have a Wal-Mart with a fabric department it will probably go bye
 bye by January 2009.

 De



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Re: [h-cost] A Fete at Bermondsey-for all the Elizabethan costumers

[Wanda Pease]

This has been my wallpaper for a long time but with a much more grainy
version.  I hope to be wearing something like one of the middle class gowns
(green with a red petticote this weekend!

Thanks you!

Regina

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Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan frog closures

[Wanda Pease]

I love Frog closures too but they don't seem to be standard on English
Elizabethans.  However, there is a painting of Elizabeth in a white dress
with frogs, labeled Polish Dress and one of the fameous ones where she is
much older, holding gloves, the dress of a light color with orange frogging
(?).  Then there is one of the Russian ambassadors.  I believe they are of
Chinese origin, but spread west and north by our pre-16th Century date.

Gadget!?  From Folkwear?  Avarice rears its expensive head.

Wanda

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of S Young
 Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:47 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan frog closures


 I always thought frog closures were a chinese invention? Learn
 something new
 everyday!

 Sidney


 On Thu, May 1, 2008 at 4:23 AM, Julie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I made a coat dress/Spanish Surcoat which has frogs up the whole front
  opening.  I'm trying to get documentation on the use of frogs
 in Elizabethan
  England.  There are a couple of pictures in Janet Arnold.  Does
 anyone have
  some links to either portraits or other primary type docs showing use of
  frogs and/or how the specific ones shown were tied?
 
  I'm using some very clever doo dads carried by FolkWear for tying these
  frogs.  Much easier than just on a macrame board.  I can't find period
  pictures of exactly what I'm doing, but will settle for close G.
 
  Thanks
  Julie in Ramona (San Diego)
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen

[Wanda Pease]

Several people from here in AnTir (SCA Kingdom including the Pacific
Northwest/Northwet of the United States) intend to go to its unveiling in
Florence, Italy in September.  The book has been long in the making.  To the
point where many of us have gotten tired of the wait and worried about the
possible demise of both the editors and picked up the various small papers
by Inter Library Loan.  Even so, I have orders for one or more of my
friends who are going to get me one too.  (Friends because I'm so
envious I can barely stand it but neither can my finances!

Wanda

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
 Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 2:20 PM
 To: 'Historical Costume'
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion Volume 4: linen



 Has anyone heard anymore about the publication below? Such as
 publisher and a real date?

 Jenny Tiramani is currently preparing Janet Arnold's book, Patterns
 of Fashion Volume 4 ; The cut and construction of linen shirts,
 smocks, neckwear, headwear  accessories for men and women
 c.1540-1660 for publication in 2008.

 Thanks,
 Beth Matney


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Re: [h-cost] Sorry, had to laugh

[Wanda Pease]

The Pacific NorthWet is pretty standard alternate for Pacific Northwest :-)
I'm in Portland, Oregon where it is currently hailing, raining, sunning all
in the same 5 minutes.  Since my migraines are pressure triggered, I'm
pretty miserable even though I really love the green this produces as well
as the coolness!

Wanda
 (SCA Kingdom including the Pacific
 Northwest/Northwet of the United States)


 Northwet?  Is that a reference to Washington and Oregon?  Please say
 you did this on purpose?

 LOL

 Genie
 Who lived in Washington for three years and loved it!

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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

[Wanda Pease]

 And do you have the sales figures on (a) what gangbusters consists of
 in terms of both units sold and profits realized, and (b) how many of
 these copies were actually sold to SCA members?

Do you?  I can ask Ian Stevens when I see him tomorrow.  Although I 
doubt
that he has such figures at his fingertips any more than I would be expected
to.  That I get answers from various publishers who are pleased with their
SCA sales makes me think that we are not a contemptible source of revenue
for them.

 Even the larger reenactor markets are not great sales markets. I find
 theatrical costumers to be a much larger, more profitable, and more
 reliable market. They will usually buy a book if they think it will
 facilitate their work; in other words, if they have a real professional
 need for it. Hobbyists usually pay less and are less likely to buy
 rather than borrow, or to not read the book at all.

Considering the less than stellar costumes we have been treated to in
various theatrical attempts this year I'd say that Theater Costumers are
pretty much wasting their time buying these books on costuming.  The basic
thrust of all theatrical costume books I've seen and have seem to be far
more interested in creating the look than the accurate cut and
construction of clothing.  Some renditions are enough to gag a maggot - The
Tudors being the worst I've seen lately.  The costume library of the
Shakespeare Festival in Ashland, Oregon (not a shabby small town effort) is
exactly that; a library meant for costumers, not researchers.

 That does not mean that the SCA
 is the only or main market of Maney Publishing, or anyone else outside
 the SCA community.

Of course not.  They publish a great many journals for many societies to
include the Costume Society.  Why in the world would you expect them to

 I've lost track of how many members the SCA has, but last time I checked
 it was a few thousand.

Present PAID memberships in the SCA are 29,500.  This does not count those
who play but do not pay.  My experience both here in the US and in Europe is
that there are between 5 and 10 active SCA players to every paid member.
This is the result of not requiring an actual membership to play except to
hold an office.  Therefore we have a large number of college students and
even some quite old members who simply refuse to pay to play.  It is
always amusing to see the professional names of well known SCA members who
are Medieval History professors in their mundane lives.

 For costume books with patterns, there is a solid if niche
 bread-and-butter market of professional costumers who will buy them
 because they need them, and that's what we really rely on.

Costume books for professional costumers...  Certainly there is The Tudor
Tailor, published by ladies who clothe the docents of Hampton Court, but
Film and stage costumers intent on accuracy, or on the look

 
  Any market is better than no market

 No, it is not. Unless a market is a certain size compared to the costs
 of book publication, the book is not worth publishing. Unless a
 publisher is subsidized by a nonprofit, they simply cannot lose money
 and still stay in business.

The days of such publishers may be numbered.  Those who refuse to 
publish,
or publish with no intention of affording the authors of scholarly works
with any type of royalty (Kegan Paul in one incident I know of) may find
that publishing via the internet will become a viable alternative.  I have
favorite Science Fiction authors who have had a problem finding a publisher
until lately.  I was introduced to their work by a friend and now go to
their website, pay either via Pay Pal or credit card, and download the
books.  I then put them on my computer, or my hand held (the Kindle may be
one of my next purchases if they come out with a back-lit screen option for
reading in the dim light of an airplane).  Certainly nothing would stop me
from doing the same and printing it off, or sections of it off if I wanted.
The authors would then be assured of receiving at least something for their
efforts.  This assumes that the authors aren't doing their publish or perish
thing for academia.  For those who really want to put their information out
to the public.

 Publishers do not generally publish a book and then find a market for
 it. That is much too risky and expensive. They do considerable research
 to find out how many members of a target market or markets there are,
 where to locate them, and so on, before even beginning work on a book.

Publishers are also sometimes surprised at their market since they never
even thought to look outside a narrow academic field.  The existence of
Oxbow and David Brown provides information on that.  I spoke to Ian Stevens
today and he mentioned that they are going to be getting some sale books
from Cambridge.  He was also interested in what type of books I knew would
be of interest to the several lists I'm on, from Cookery to 

Re: [h-cost] Update on Medieval Clothing Textiles

[Wanda Pease]

Well, there went my vow of poverty for the month.

Wanda

 On Tuesday 29 April 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:
  Just this minute I got my editor's copy of Medieval Clothing
 and Textiles
  vol. 4, so for those of you who have been asking me, I can now verify it
  exists and is making its way over the water.


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Re: [h-cost] books (tudor/elizabethan era), sewing and pattern advice

[Wanda Pease]

I must admit that I love all the books you have mentioned with the addition
of A Tailor's Manuel from 1589 by Juan Alcega, translation by Ruth Bean.  I
did manage to gather up all the rest of the books available from David Brown
books and they are spoken for or sold.  However, I would be surprised if
there aren't some available from SCA booksellers (I'm not one, I just love
this particular book and want people to have it).  There might also be
perfect ones available from Ruth Bean (here on H-Costume) in England.

Once I figured out what in the world was going on with these original
patterns, it's a book that I'd run into the flames to rescue along with
Queen Elizabeth's Closet and Dress in the Court of Henry VIII.  I'd probably
burn to death because I'd keep trying to cram in one more book!

Seriously,  if you can get a copy of Alcega, as it's known in the SCA at
least, I highly recommend it.  The clothing I've made from it showed that
the patterns are actually to scale, not just drawings of what the pattern
piece should look like.  Not to put the Tudor Tailor down, but I think I'd
prefer the Alcega to it just because of the number of patterns.  Then again,
these are Spanish clothes of the middle class; however Spain was a lot like
the Paris of its time as far as clothing was concerned in the 16th century.

If you do go into things as a Pro.  Be prepared to do a lot of figuring and
planning first.  One of the most common errors people make is pricing their
time too cheaply.  Materials can be costly.  Trim can be costly (I have
gowns where the trim cost more than the fabric and other items combined!),
but you must value your time in a professional manner.  You also have to
treat it as a business.  Business owners have friends, but they can't afford
to sell something at cost very often.  It can be hard to tell your best
friend that the wedding dress she has drooled over all her life is going to
cost her XXX amount if you do it.

As an Amateur I can afford to spend time embroidering, pearling and
generally making something gorgeous for a friend, but I have a real job that
supports my hobby :-)

Wanda
 My question, if you could use 3 books for this (these)
 eras, which would you buy?

 The ones I have in my cart are Jane Arnold's Patterns
 of Fashion 1560-1620, as well as her 1660-1860, Jean
 Hunnisett's _Period Costume for Stage and Screen,
 Patterns for Women's dress 1500-1800,   The Tudor
 Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila, and Costume Close Up:
 Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790 - Linda
 Baumgarten.  I also have a book called Fine Machine
 Sewing and Susan Khalje's Bridal Coutoure book.  Do
 you have any other suggestions?



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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

[Wanda Pease]

 We are just lucky I guess.  Most of us garb-and-research-types are
 book-aholics. She/he who dies with the most books wins the love
 and undying
 affection of she/he who inherits the books. :-)
 Monica

Truer words were never written :-)  I have to watch my back around some of
my friends who know the books will be offered to them first when they carry
me out of my house.  Then there are the ones who complacently watch my
fabric stash grow to huge proportions (live near two Pendleton Woolen Mills
seconds stores and come from Pendleton.  At $3.99 a yard Pendleton wool can
be cheaper than either dead dinosaur or cotton!).  Certainly I have more
than I'm likely to use in the next 20 years or so.

Fancy sewing machines mean the new 1911 Singer Treadle I just got from
Good Will with every attachment ever made to that time plus the original
manual.  Then there is the 1929 Singer electric/hand crank, or the 1960
Touch and Sew, or the 1960 Morris, or the 1981 Pfaff or...
(Housemate is glaring and insisting that there are no more sewing machines
to come to the house.  She doesn't mention the three that she has rescued in
the last year - chuckle!)

I actually think that the fact that the SCA and it's offshoots in the
re-enactment and Renn Faire arenas are the reason why many books see
publication at all.  Dress in the Court of Henry VIII was eagerly welcomed
by David Brown/Oxbow books when Maney Publishing came up with the idea.
They knew it would sell like gangbusters, and it has.  Maney publishing is
eager to hear from the book buying public about what we would like to see
and spend money on.  The museum in Italy that put out Moda was evidently
completely surprised at the way it was received.  Rumor has it that there
will be a companion volume on male clothing from that same era now they know
it will sell.

The same is true of books on Medieval and Renaissance cooking and some of
the more off the wall cookbooks.  Who would think that a hardworking
Family Assistance program manager would put out $125 for a translation of a
13th century Mongolian cookbook?  (Well, the actual sale price was $225 when
the idiots got through with messing with the number published and who would
buy it but Barnes and Noble made the mistake of sending out a few at the
lower price.)  The answer is that SCA members and those who have fallen
under their spell would.

Any market is better than no market and a new generation is growing up that
will never think to thank us for creating it.  They will think that it's
obvious that someone would be interested in the grave finds on the Isle of
Man, or the cut and construction of Spanish clothing in 1578.

Wanda


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Re: [h-cost] book lust G

[Wanda Pease]

 David Brown Book Company/Oxbow Books carries it too. I can't remember
 what they're currently charging.

 www.oxbowbooks.com

 Arlys


David Brown's current listing if for $90 plus shipping (usually $5.00).  You
need this book.  Grab it before it goes out of print and availability
completely.  It isn't going to get any cheaper to buy and borrowing it from
the library, assuming you can get it at all is not the same.  The museum is
completely bemused at the way the book has been snapped up and not really
ready for mass printings.

Wanda


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Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

[Wanda Pease]

 Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe


 Is it only men's clothes?
 Sharon



No.  Both women's and men's clothing.  Again, this is middle class Spanish,
not the Infanta's.  Although they were probably similar in cut and
construction, Royal clothing certainly utilized items that most well to do
people did not.

There are patterns for what we call a farthingale that are put together
quite differently than we do now.  They are also fairly narrow.  Remember
that Spain stayed with the cone shaped silhouette while England went for the
bum roll and pleated looks late in the century.

The patterns consist of drawings of various widths of fabric with pattern
shapes laid out on them.  Usually 3 patterns to a page.  This shows you that
they are quite small.  I measured them, checked the measurement chart
(doesn't look like anything you have ever seen before) and drew full size
patterns on pattern making muslin (gingham which has such nice even squares
on it).

More than anything else, this book will show you what the pattern pieces
looked like; how they were placed on fabrics of various widths that were
available then (none in the 60 woolen widths we are used to).

Once you have the hang of what Master Alcega was trying to put across to men
who were already familiar with the craft of sewing garments, you will love
the book.  The first part of it is a facsimile of the original Spanish book.
The second part is the translation with each of the patterns done again.
The measurements are not translated, but there is a page at the front of the
translated section that discusses what the markings mean, and how wide
fabrics were believed to be from various countries.

Regina

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Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

[Wanda Pease]

Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
Manual to help young tailor's with their art.

If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
have help understanding.

Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
decide that a barra is 36 (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
Robe fits a man 5'10 perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.

A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
They aren't court garments, nor are they underwear other than a
farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.

Regina Romsey

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Sharon Collier
 Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
 To: 'Historical Costume'
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe


 Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
 Sharon Collier


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Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

[Wanda Pease]

 Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe


 Can I just add that anyone who doesn't have a copy of this marvellous
 book should really think about getting one as a standard reference if
 they work on the 16th century, much like Janet Arnold's. I've had my
 copy for about 8 years now, and it's one of the most useful books
 I've ever had (

After reading the information above I went to the David Brown site to order
another softback.  Sadly they came back haven't any more.  I cried, I
whined, I send pleas directly to Ian Stevens their friendly marketing
director who just happened to be in England at the moment.  He sent our into
the dim reaches of Oxbow books warehouse and unearthed the last 5 copies
they had.

I say Had because I now have them.  They are $70 each because David Brown
charged $65 plus $5 shipping.  If you want one I can let you have it for
that plus the amount it will cost to media mail (or other, contact me) it to
you.  I'm also trying to get my hands on some others that aren't perfect,
but can be made to have all the information.

Now this is not an attempt to undercut either Oxbow, David Brown (my
favorite form of Crack), or Mr. and Mrs. Bean.  I desperately want this book
back in print.  The thing is that I believe that it would sell slowly but
steadily in about 200 copies per year (or am I under/over estimating?).
David Brown would be happy to handle the selling if it had the opportunity.

Buying copies to the Editor/Translator/book publisher get money for more
copies and Royalties for all their hard work is the only way to get this
done.

Anyway, if anyone wants a copy now, let me know and we can probably make a
deal.  Like Hilary, this is a book I wouldn't be without.  The patterns are
to scale and really work.  It isn't a book for a new sewer.  It may not even
be a book for someone who hasn't worked with period style patterns before.
Took me years to figure out what was going on with some of them, but then
it's a Eureka! moment.

Regina Romsey.
P.S.  If you live in England or a European country, you might try and
contact Mrs. Bean directly.  If they have more copies available themselves,
I'm sure they would be happy to sell too!
e:
 


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RE: [h-cost] material for Russian coat in England

[Wanda Pease]

If the lady lives near London the answer is BOROVIC Street and Borovic
Fabrics.  This is in the theater district or close to it.  I was there years
ago (I know for a fact it is still there) and a new show was opening in a
couple of months.  I was behind the set and costume people.  They were
ordering in the 100's of yards of various fabrics.  When I got served I felt
strange asking for 3 yards of this gorgeous white and gold quilted brocade.
The clerks didn't even blink.  They also directed me towards the back where
the Harris Tweed was kept (no, not what you are likely to want for a Russian
coat).  The storefront was about 15' wide but went all the way to the center
of the block and up four floors.  All filled with fabrics of every type.
Most of the street, which is really an alley with delusions of grandeur -
you can only walk down it during the day - is made up of shops with the same
sort of merchandise.  They cater to the theater, but will never pass up a
pound note if it's to be had!
From a Blog on wedding dresses:
MrsHays2B, my fabric is from Borovic Fabrics (I think that's what they are
called!) They are based in Berwick Street, Soho. (Just off Oxford Street)
There are LOADS of fabric and silk shops on that street, also lots of
accessories shops in the area too - we got the beads for my Tiara from a
bead shop a couple of streets away. They are stunning! Well worth a day-trip
into London, even if you are just after ideas.

Evidently the Beatles (there are people on this list that still remember the
Beatles, aren't there? (whimper, feeling OLD today) got the silk that most
of their wildest costumes were made from there as well.

Looking for Wool in England seems like coals to Newcastle, but there you are
:-)

Regina




 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Dawn
 Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 12:17 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] material for Russian coat


 Cassandra Greer wrote:
   Could any of you knowledgeable people suggest a few online
  fabric stores either in the States or in Europe that would have the
  appropriate type of material even at this time of year?
 
 


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[h-cost] FW: [MEDIEV-L:55023] mss

[Wanda Pease]

I lurk on this list which is for Professional Academics.  They do tolerate
and take interest in those without the degrees and tenure tracks.  They can
be some of our own Big League SCA members disguised as their Mundane selves
(Duke Finnvarr de Trahe, Sir Andrew of Riga, and more) who actually teach
College Courses and have letters behind their names.  They can also be
people with a lot of Professional Re-enactment experience (Henk d'Jong who
loathes the SCA).  Best yet, there are a bunch of lurkers like myself who
occasionally ask a question, or wade in when the Academic is obviously wrong
(women's side saddles were unsafe at any speed which Countess Illaria took
out with words and pictures!)

At any rate, although this looks like a blog address, it has some of the
neatest Manuscripts you have ever seen on the web, complete with
illuminations.  The text is mainly in French but who buys a book (or, in
this case looks at it) for the text? (grin).  This selection of manuscripts
has wonderful illuminations.  I suspect it has MUCH more but my second
language is Troll.

Regina

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of pecia
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 7:45 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MEDIEV-L:55023] mss


Pierre Geraut et son exemplaire du « Roman de la Rose » (ms Paris
Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève 1127)

Les Coustumes de Bretaigne de Guillaume Davy

Le Roman de Otinel : un copiste de Saint-Brieuc en 1317 ...

http://blog.pecia.fr

jean luc deuffic
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RE: [h-cost] book: Prayers and Portraits

[Wanda Pease]

I have one word for you: Enabler!!  

Book is for Sale on Amazon for a mere (!) $54.00.

Regina

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Suzanne
 Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 10:17 AM
 To: h-costume
 Subject: [h-cost] book: Prayers and Portraits
 
 
 I want to share my enthusiasm for a big, lovely, art book that I  
 found at the library.
 
 Prayers and Portraits: unfolding the Netherlandish diptych 
 
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RE: [h-cost] Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed

[Wanda Pease]

Nearby motels, crash space, etc.? Being Eugene area I might try sleeping in
my car, but then again maybe not?

Regina Romsey

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Jamie Parker
 Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 10:38 PM
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed


 Lizapalooza! A weekend with Drea Leed


We are pleased to welcome Drea Leed, independent scholar and
 owner of the most extensive Elizabethan and Tudor costuming
 reference on the Web, The Elizabethan CostumePage, as our
 speaker April 12-13, 2008.



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RE: [h-cost] OT a farewell.

[Wanda Pease]

Don't forget us completely Bjarne!  You do exquisite work.  Is there any way
you can remain able to post, but not be inundated by mail you don't want to
read?  Maybe the digests so you could just hit delete?

In the meantime, Goodbye, Good Luck.

Wanda

 
 Hi all,
 I hate to do this, but i don't think that h-costume has any topics
 with my interests anymore. And as my time is valuable for me, i
 have decided to leave.
 Just want to say thanks to all for the nice company and i hope
 you will have many interesting discussions in the future.
 Take care.

 Bjarne
 

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RE: [h-cost] slops for women?

[Wanda Pease]

snip Shrove
 Sunday, after a goodly banket in the Parliament
 Chamber at Westminster, a masque was presented in
 which, amongst many other fancifully attired
 personages (the King being one), there entered six
 ladies, two of whom were in garments of crymosyne and
 purpull, made like long slops, embroidered and fretted
 with golde after the antique fascion ; and over the
 slop was a shorte garment of cloth of golde, scant to
 the knee, fascioned like a tabard, c. But though
 they were not breeches,...

 There's a lot more, but that gets the drift with
 regards to mourning clothing.

 Kimiko

Now it really makes me want to scream Pictures!  We want Pictures! since I
can't visualize what they are supposed to look like.

Regina



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RE: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references

[Wanda Pease]

If you can get a copy of Roy Strong's Elizabethan Icon book, there are
portraits of sisters that are wearing the same dress but in a mirror image
(one faces right, the other left).  I think he suggests that paintings were
made of something like this and the face put in to order.

Regina (too lazy to go down and up stairs for the book)

 -


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RE: [h-cost] Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries

[Wanda Pease]

 It's from The Local - Sweden's News in English
 http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/

 What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!

 Linda Walton,
 (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)
 ___

Pity there was absolutely no supporting documentation other than this
woman's bare word.  Until I see a whole lot more, like what she really said,
where she said it, and what made her believe it.  I think I'll stick with
the more conservative view.  Bare skin, cold! Mosquitoes and Malaria?

Brrr
Regina

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[h-cost] Happy Dance for Linen

[Wanda Pease]

Well, it's been a good week.  Saturday stopped at the organic only fabric
store on 104th and Sandy for some cotton voile embroidered in a wandering
pattern (I have plans for reverse couching.) Then on to the Pendleton store
in Washougal for 6.5 yards of Oxblood color gabardine at $3.95 a yard.

Today the Good Will on 122nd avenue yielded a complete bolt of Navy Blue
Linen (imported original 100% says the old bolt it's on) for $14.99 for the
whole thing.

Considering the amount of flannel and double-knits I'd say that someone who
had been working towards she who has the most fabric... is giving up.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Live your life so your children can tell their children
That you not only stood for something wonderful,
But that you acted upon it.  Dan Zadra


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[h-cost] Margarete I: Queen of the Kalmar Union

[Wanda Pease]

I just managed to get my hands on an English Translation of a group of
essays and a catalogue of a Danish Exhibition on Scandinavia.  It has
pictorial information on items dating from 1348 to 1700.  The title pays
tribute to one of the most under written about (in English) Queens in
history, Queen Margarete I of Denmark/Sweden/Norway (invitation only
please).

A-4 paper, soft bound.  Got mine for 25 GBP Plus an outrageous amount it
postage from Paul Meekins in England.  If you have any interest contact me
off list and I will try and find where I put that darned thank you note from
them.  They are on-line and take credit cards or pay pal.

I have a little Norman here at the house who is convinced that Norman Boys
didn't wear no clothes (doo dah, doo-dah!) because he can't find anything
but 12th century pictures of armor (Boy is 38).  I was hoping this might
help since he is into sewing his garb by hand and being as period as
possible.  Interpretation:  Sewing machines scare him)

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Live your life so your children can tell their children
That you not only stood for something wonderful,
But that you acted upon it.  Dan Zadra


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RE: [h-cost] I love the Pendleton Outlet :-)

[Wanda Pease]

Since I don't do anything that requires plaids, I don't buy them.  I do buy
the pure Cobalt Blues, the deep reds, and a full bolt of clear forest green.
Pendleton weaves things other than plaids, so don't count them out when you
are fabric shopping


Wanda

 The Pendleton outlet in Redding, CA also has yard goods, and some pretty
 nice stuff. I just don't have any plaid projects on the horizon so I
 haven't bought any the last two trips up there.

 and

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[h-cost] I love the Pendleton Outlet :-)

[Wanda Pease]

Today was the last day of some friend's visit so we decided to go to
Washougal, a tiny town on the Columbia River, Washington Side.

Sigh!  Everything seemed to be on sale although we were dragged by mental
chains to the fabric section.  All $3.95 a yard, and 25% off of that...
Purr.  The $3.95 fabric there isn't really as unusual as it sounds.  They
also had some flat fold 3 and 4 years stuff for $1.95.  Even better they
have a HUGE selection of buttons (think of a post office package trailer
about 3/4ths full).  Good thing we had the munchies or we would have had to
take a look at what the New Year would have had for us at the other store in
Portland.

Beautiful Cobalt blue, teal, dried blood red, pink, gold, etc.  And we
bought it all!  Now we need the Sewing House Elf!

Next stop JoAnns where I can pick up some 60 fabric cores to wind it all on
and set it upright in the attic (no light streaking) in the big plastic
tubs.  I write what is actually on the core and the amount.

Ah!  Life is Good!

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Live your life so your children can tell their children
That you not only stood for something wonderful,
But that you acted upon it.  Dan Zadra


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RE: [h-cost] Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

[Wanda Pease]

Just so you know that Ruth isn't being the Dog in the Manger about this, the
book is currently in print and for sale.  David Brown Books (look under
Oxbow books for those in the US) has:
 Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589: Libro De Geometria, Pratica Y Traca
http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/40289/OnlyResult/Yes

This book presents a facsimile of Juan de Alcega's Spanish tailor's guide
from the late 16th century, which `sets out the complicated calculations
needed for adapting measurements in the days when cloth and other materials
were woven in many standard widths'. It also describes and illustrated
methods of tailoring and cutting and provides tables to help the tailor
calculate the amount of cloth required for different garments for men and
women. The facsimile is followed by an illustrated English translation and a
glossary. 88p plus 66p, b/w illus (Ruth Bean rep 2000, 2004)  Price $65.

No I don't think this is anywhere near too expensive for the wonderful work
the author/editors put into it.  I have several books that are of far less
value that cost me more.  I blew up the pieces for the Spanish robe for a
friend of mine several years ago.  We tried to use the correct numbers and
sizes.  He is 5'10, it fit perfectly.

I am so glad that Ms Bean put this out on her own rather than letting the
usual big printing organization decide it's doom or not.  I know we have all
had the frustration of works like this being swept away on the tides of
greed and disinterest.  It's nice to see that it can be published and made
available without the blessings of Thames and Hudson or Oxford University
Press.

Buy it, for a wonder you actually can!  You will like it! :-)

Regina

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Wicked Frau
 Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 9:28 AM
 To: 'Historical Costume'
 Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe


 Sigh...my fault.

 No excuses; my most sincere apologies to Ruth.

 Sorry everyone else, you'll have to order the book through
 interlibrary loan
 and make your own copies.  I believe then, as long as you don't
 share them,
 you will be okay under the fair use rules.

 Sg (aka Wicked Frau)



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RE: [h-cost] Re: looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe

[Wanda Pease]

Go to www.oxbowbooks.com .  Choose Click here for US Pricing.  Put Alcega
into the Search box and you get:
Tailor's Pattern Book 1589
by Juan de Alcega
This book presents a facsimile of Juan de Alcega's Spanish tailor's guide
from the late 16th century, which `sets out the complicated calculations
needed for adapting measurements in the days when cloth and other materials
were woven in many standard widths'. It also describes and illustrated
methods of tailoring and cutting and provides tables to help the tailor
calculate the amount of cloth required for different garments for men and
women. The facsimile is followed by an illustrated English translation and a
glossary. 88p plus 66p, b/w illus (Ruth Bean rep 2000, 2004)

ISBN-13: 978-0-903585-31-6
ISBN-10: 0-903585-31-6
   Paperback. Price US $65.00

Personally, when I saw it had come out again I bought 3 copies just so the
publisher/distributor (in this case David Brown is the US distributor I
think) would know that there were people able and willing to buy such a
title.  At that time it was $40.00 since I got the pre-printing distribution
discount.

Since then I have earned a spot on the David Brown Marketing Manager's
e-mail list which is guanines to deplete your bank account  in a hurry!  He
asked if I thought that another 200 of the Moda di Firenzie could be sold or
if the market had been saturated...  I laughed.  It is also there for sale
at $90.00 and he is very happy with the sales figures.

The Inventories of Henry VIII, edited by David Starky are also there for $84
and the new Dress in the Court of Henry VIII, for $96 for the Very Nice
paperback. The 1542 Inventory of Whitehall: The Palace and its Keeper,  by
Maria Hayward is also there, but at $320 it is a trifle steep, but there are
two volumes 8-0) (that's the sign that I lost control and bought a set for
myself).

Something to spend that Christmas bonus on!

Wanda


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[h-cost] New Book! Sorry for the Overlap!

[Wanda Pease]

I'm sorry for the overlap between SCA Garb and H-Costume, but I just got a
fabulous book from David Brown and really want people out there to be aware
it's out.

One of the first things besides a tunic an SCA member wants and needs is a
pouch.  Personally I have used everything from a Blue Velvet bottle holder
(fine Whisky?) to a naalbinding bag made for me from wool she had spun
herself.  I have always drooled over the fancy type that has little bags
sewing to a bit one, or something that folded over the belt.

I probably don't have one because the standard slap two pieces of fabric
together, run a seam around and make a turning for a draw string worked.
Well, now I have no excuse for not having one of the spiffy type because a
book showing how they were done is in my grubby paws.

The book is Purses in Pieces: Archeological finds of late medieval and 16th
century leather purses, pouches, bags, and cases in the Netherlands by Olaf
Goubitz.  There are far more than what is listed in the title in here!
There are leather covers for books (the type tat protected the actual
binding of the book.  The type you see sometimes where there seems to be a
loose layer of fabric around the book that the Virgin is sometimes reading.

There is also a leather ink bottle and illustration of a penner and ink
bottle (courtesy of a sheep rustler drawn by Bosche).  Lots of illustrations
that we don't usually see unless we have been looking at drawings from the
Netherlands rather than just paintings.

The author was the chief leather conservator of the Netherlands for many
years.  He also wrote the book:  Stepping Through Time that I was turned
onto by Marc Carlson, the Historian and SCA member who also specializes in
leather shoes.

I wish I could say it was cheap, but it's $35.00 for a relatively thin book.
Never-the-less, it needs to be in the hands of someone near you if not in
your own.  For the Costume Nerds (Geeks have college training says my source
of all wisdom :- the illustrations are good ones and As a 25 year SCA
researcher, they make it worth my while even if I don't produce a purse.
I'm a lot more likely to make one of these than a turn-shoe, worse luck.

Fascinating!

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Live your life so your children can tell their children
That you not only stood for something wonderful,
But that you acted upon it.  Dan Zadra


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RE: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

[Wanda Pease]

Sadly for me my hair is slowly becoming less thick and every time I get it
evened up it gets a bit shorter as well.  I have had good luck back in the
days of thick, long hair, with taking 3 long bobby-pin tightly squeezed
not the loose U shape and put them as equidistant around the bun as I could.
I used to have short sections come loose and end up in my mouth and face,
but then I learned the trick of french rolling (part your hair in the
center, and comb it smoothly to each side.  Start at the part line on one
side and take a little hair and twist it, then move the roll down and gather
in some more hair and twist that in.  Keep going until you have reached the
area you want the bun to start and put in a big bobby pin to hold it while
you do the other side the same way.  Gather the two twists together and wind
them around and make your bun.)  Once you have the short hairs rolled into
the longer ones, they tend not to fly around loosely.  I've even done this
with braids and had it hold throughout the night and next day.  If the side
rolls don't look nice and even run a comb through them gently that will
smooth everything out.  If they aren't fluffy enough take the sides and
tug gently.

It can take some practice, but your hair will generally stay put.  The only
person I've had a problem with was a dancer who had incredibly thick hair
(she stopped having headaches when she cut it to mid back.  The weight of
her hair was actually causing her to flip it and using neck and spine in
ways that weren't good for them.

I should mention that I rinse my hair about every three to five days (100
strokes with a hog bristle brush that is washed every week with baby
shampoo) with as hot water as I can stand and then folded into a towel and
allowed to dry completely before I start with the big cedar comb my nephew
brought me from China.  I may not have the Breck Girl shining hair, but it
isn't oily, and it does stay in styles far longer than it did when I washed
it with shampoo and conditioner frequently.

For the record the lack of Shampoo and Conditioner are not the reason for
the hair loss.  Ya gotta be tough to get old (er)

Wanda

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Frau Anna Bleucher
 Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 9:50 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


 Marjorie,

 I use hair sticks rather than hair pins. My hair is very long and
 very thick, so regular bobby pins I can get at the local stores are
 totally useless. I prefer the sturdy metal and wood to the plastic. I
 also prefer the two-prong sticks to the singles. You can get short
 and plain ones that barely show at all, too.

 Connie

 Wyvern Productions
 Painting masterpieces in thread.
 http://www.wyvernproductions.com



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RE: [h-cost] Source needed

[Wanda Pease]

Just an unasked piece of information.  Daggers were used for a specific
purpose and it wasn't cutting up your food. All the actual eating knives I
have seen in European Museums and Marc de Gaukler's actual archeological
pieces look a lot like a common eating knife, or a paring knife.  The top of
the blade blunt and the bottom with an edge.  Handles were wood or bone.
Taking a look at the pictures that show them actually eating and you will
see this.

Now that I've given you a whole bunch of information that isn't what you
want...http://www.medievalwares.com/new.htm  Take a look at the knives about
1/2 way down the page.  Your boy can always look snarky at his friends and
point out that his knife is a Proper Period Style!  My eating knife is
actually a fishing knife I bought from Finland.  It has a leather scabbard
and is the sharpest thing I've ever owned.!  It also cost about $6.00 then.
Try this URL because I think they made mine:
http://www.kellamknives.com/index.php?main_page=indexcPath=1

EEE!  I just looked at the prices!  I should have invested in this company
instead of Microsoft!  Still that is the actual form that you are looking
for.

Here is the URL for a place that might satisfy him
http://www.swordsknivesanddaggers.com/catalog/medievalweapons/MedievalDagger
s.aspx

Best place to find such is at an SCA event with merchants.  I've never seen
a large grouping that doesn't have a nice selection.  I must admit to a real
weakness for sharp point objects.

Regina Romsey

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
 Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 2:41 PM
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Source needed


 Does anybody have a good source for an inexpensive
 eating dagger?

 We want to get something garb related for Ansel's
 stocking and a dagger would be about the right size.

 Thanks for any input.

 Rebecca Burch
 Center Valley Farm
 Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

 The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the
 flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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[h-cost] Von Sussen Enterprises was: Source Needed

[Wanda Pease]

Way to go Karl  I'm sure I'm leaving out his other titles, but at least
three of them are Master and Sir and Viscount Karl von Sussen.  I bet he has
his own page in the East Kingdom OP.

He may be startled to hear this but He is one of the number Princes that I
respect the most.  He is one of those who disagreed with my ideas of how
Drachenwald should run, and the Coronet's Word is Law (Gag, hack, spit!)
which I despise almost as much as the Crown's Word is Law, which is far too
often brought out, even by the Queens as The King's Word is Law, which IT
IS NOT (yes, I'm yelling in a good natured type of way.   If you don't
believe me read your Kingdom Laws.  Bet they say:  The Word of the Crown is
Law and then defines the Crown as the King AND Queen reigning jointly.  So
much for your important history lesson today.  Those who forget that it is
the same with the President, Congress, and Supreme Court sharing power are
likely to find them Cold, in danger, and away from home in a strange place
this Christmas.  Along with those who remembered and are doing their DUTY as
sworn to when they enlisted:  I, _, do solemnly swear (or affirm) that
I will support and defend the Constitution of the United States against all
enemies, foreign and domestic; that I will bear true faith and allegiance to
the same; and that I will obey the orders of the President of the United
States and the orders of the officers appointed over me, according to
regulations and the Uniform Code of Military Justice. So help me God.
(Title 10, US Code; Act of 5 May 1960 replacing the wording first adopted in
1789, with amendment effective 5 October 1962).

While some only hear the part about the orders of the President of the
United States, the Constitution actually has precedence.

At any rate, we disagreed and he came to Curia expecting blood to run.
Fortunately I had been warned about what the Seneschal of the time had
engineered and the two of us took the newly written piece of junk and made
it a working document.  Interestingly enough, I've noticed that the present
Laws look a lot like those we hammered out those first 10 years of being a
Principality.  The Europeans have been there, seen that, and know what the
laws of their medieval countries REALLY said and meant.

At any rate, he is an honorable man who I would recommend in a heart beat.
Not only because of his titles (we all know how much they can be made to
mean!) but because he is and was a reasonable man who wanted what was best
for the Principality he co-ruled (Princess)  but for her people as well.

Regina Romsey
OL, OP, Drachenwald/East, Now Proud Resident of the Laurel Kingdom of AnTir
and the Pacific NorthWet

 .

 And, darn it, he doesn't have any of the Viking-style small
 knives he often
 has  Here's URLs to a 16th c reproduction and a late medieval one:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/16th-C-utility-knife-historic-repro-of-museum-
 find-H_W0QQitemZ300180719258QQihZ020QQcategoryZ156374QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 (This one is $50, but claims to be an exact reproduction of an
 actual find.)

 http://cgi.ebay.com/14th-15th-Century-belt-utility-knife-with-Bone
 -handle_W0QQitemZ300179816992QQihZ020QQcategoryZ475QQcmdZViewItem
 (This one is much cheaper, and the shape checks out with my
 memory of belt
 knives from 14th-15th c art.  They sometimes have this shape with horn or
 wood handles, and the prices differ a little depending on which
 substance is
 used.)

 My own eating knife is a reproduction of a standard, single-edged
 small Viking
 knife that I bought from Ragweed Forge, but he got the last of their
 production runs, and I don't think he has them any more.It was $40.



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RE: Costume journal was Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii

[Wanda Pease]

Beth,  I have the Dress book already from David Brown. I went to the Barnes
and Nobel site and although they have it listed I don't see a price.
Actually I'm the one who wrote the bit about bribery and corruption to get
my copy.  It is definitely worth the money to me.  It is going right into
it's place next to Queen Elizabeth's Closet Unlocked.  That book is also
printed in the UK by Maney publishing as are my Inventories of the Palace of
White Hall 1542.

I've been in touch with Janet Hogue and she has put me in touch with their
marketing manager Alison Holgate who asked what things the SCA might be
interested in.  I did my best to cover as much as I could and to assure her
that there were plenty of people outside the SCA Period or even
organization who were there ready to be marketed to.  She wrote me back with
these suggestions:

It sounds like we have got loads of titles that would be of interest. In
the way of journals we have...

Costume: Journal of the Costume Society
Textile History
Arms  Armour
Exemplaria: A Journal of Theory in Medieval  Renaissance Studies (history,
theatre, literature, etc)
Medieval Sermon Studies
Medieval Archaeology
Post-Medieval Archaeology
Journal of the British Archaeological Association (?)
Vernacular Architecture (?)

In books we have:
Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd

Some sound a bit peculiar until you realize that Sermons frequently mention
articles of clothing that are too high, too tight, too revealing, etc.
Archeology is where we find a lot of textile or other finds.  Now I have to
have her give me some quotes for prices.  She was thinking it might be
possible to do something on the order of a special rate for people from a
particular e-group.  Such thoughts need to be encouraged!  I did mention
that Queen Elizabeth's Closet was a pretty sure winner for those of us into
that age.  I'm still kicking myself for only buying one of the mispriced
ones!

Wanda Pease

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Beth and Bob Matney
 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:41 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Costume journal was Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of
 KingHenry Viii


 Suzi,

 I'm missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume
 (Journal of the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of
 these for sale, please let me know!

 I'm also looking Textile History Vol 18 and Dress #26, 1999. (Journal
 of the Costume Society
 of America)

 Best price that I could find for Dress at the Court of King Henry
 Viii in the USA was BarnesNoble. They say that it will ship Nov
 20... I've had it on order for awhile.

 Beth

 At 08:40 PM 11/14/2007, you wrote:
 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:12:14 +
 From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 At 00:01 04/11/2007, you wrote:
  I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of
 use to someone
  here as well:
  
  Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii
  
  I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption.  The
 publication
  party for the book was to have been 1 October in England.
 Which is why the
  books are only shipping in time for Christmas.  It is
 available in the US
  for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound
  version in that it is larger than 8 x 10) from
 
 http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%
20of%20Henr
 y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1(David Brown Book company the US
 distributor  Look for Oxbow books and click on the $)
 
 Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a
Manley
 publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society

This is an Annual Journal, not a quarterly one - I have very nearly a
complete run, and thankfully, there is only one per year!

Suzi

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RE: [h-cost] RE: Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wish list

[Wanda Pease]

I don't think those are too earthy at all!  Except for the swaddling and
clothing for infants are things I'd really be interested in knowing.  Given
the right book I'd probably be willing to spring for the baby stuff too.

Wanda


 swaddling
 clothing for infants and toddlers
 underwear
 aprons
 breast support
 maternity clothing
 wills - clothing handed down through generations
 second hand clothing

 Are these too earthy?

 Mary
 

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RE: [h-cost] was Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii now TheJournal of the Costume Society

[Wanda Pease]

I begged for my subscription to start with Volume 41.  When I subscribed I
specifically asked to start with 41 because I knew it was the one I really
wanted.  Ms. Hague was very nice and made sure I got the correct one to
start with.

You will always be surprised what you can get if you just ask.  I have a new
Supervisor who drives us crazy when we point out that we can't get X supply.
He asks if we have asked for it.  It's a horrible thing to have to admit
that you haven't actually asked, you just assumed and...   Then you go
slinking off and do ask and get what you want.  It would be demoralizing if
it wasn't getting me so many goodies I just assumed I couldn't have.

This can be true of museum collections and libraries.  The National Portrait
Gallery and a few of the other big, nose in the air museums can be horrible
to work with because they don't choose to work with the public.  On the
other hand many smaller museums and libraries are delighted when the public
whose taxes and donations support them show intelligent interest.

It's why I have a copy of an original Vecellio, printed in 1589.  It was
housed in the Library at Darmstadt, Germany.  They had no problems with
first of all bringing it out to be seen, and then photographically copying
it for about 10 cents a page.  The book was the equivalent of a paperback of
its time.

They would have let us look over their hand done manuscripts too, but not
take pictures.  This stuff exists in Europe by the ton.  In the last few
years fire, flood, and insurrection have destroyed huge amounts of the Human
heritage.  Many old world places are desperate to put their stuff onto the
net where it will remain even if the original is blown up by some deluded
idiot.

Wanda


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[h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii

[Wanda Pease]

I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of use to someone
here as well:

Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii

I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption.  The publication
party for the book was to have been 1 October in England. Which is why the
books are only shipping in time for Christmas.  It is available in the US
for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound
version in that it is larger than 8 x 10) from
http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%20of%20Henr
y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1(David Brown Book company the US
distributor  Look for Oxbow books and click on the $)

Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley
publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society
www.costumesociety.org.uk .  You can subscribe, or buy individual articles.
I got involved because one of the articles in Costume Volume 41 (the present
one) had the Janet Arnold work on the Effigy Corset.  I'm not a penny
pinching young student, but an employed and old student working on my MA as
an Independent Scholar with my local university.  This is why I paid the
Student rate when I subscribed.  The individual article is for sale on-line
for $25.

The writers frequently have access to items that I didn't even know about.
The color chart is something I've been needing for years (and is pronounced
by one of my professor friends as a very good rendition.)

If you can't afford it, you can't.  That means you know what to ask your
Liberian for.  Old issues are available as are individual articles.

As you can see from the Table of Contents below, the Journal ranges over a
wide range of periods and places.

Wanda

Included in No. 41 are:

 The pair of straight bodies' and a pair of drawers' dating from 1603 which
Clothe the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey by Janet Arnold

'To Cap it All':  The Waterford Cap of Maintenance (Henry VIII timeframe) by
Cliodna Devit

'Rainbow for a Reign:  The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe (Queen Elizabeth,
with a color chart to give you an idea of what the name actually means -
such as 'maiden's blush' etc.

The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I:  Tailors' Guild
or Company of Merchants: By Nigel Sleigh-Johnson

A Fashionable Confinement:  Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman by
Harriet Waterhouse (not Elizabethan)

'Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?'  Thompson's
Survival Strategy During the Decline of the Crinoline by Lucy-Clare Windle

The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple:  Confirmation and
First Confirmation Dress, 1850-2000 by Anthea Jarvis

The Wearing of the Red:  The Redcoat and the British Brand by Nigel Arch

A clinging Liberty tea-gown instead of a magenta satin':  The Colour Red in
Artistic Dress by Liberty  Co.' by Anna Buruma

Modern Fashions for Modern Women:  The Evolution of New York Sportswear in
the 1930s by Rebecca Arnold

Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place by Rosemary Harden
(my personal opinion is that his place is probably face down with a steak
through his heart - Wanda)

New Books and Articles by James Snowden and Naomi E.A. Tarrant


Selective List
Book Reviews
Exhibitions
Study Day




 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rikke D. Giles
 Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 2:23 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [TheRenTailor] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii


 On 11/03/2007 12:47:05 PM, Wanda Pease wrote:
  Got mine two weeks ago.  The American Distributor is David Brown
  Books and the cost for the Paper back (comes in a Sleeve) is $96.  T

 Bleh, I ordered mine last July and still haven't gotten it!  Lucky
 you :)  I think I will have to contact David Brown.

 Aelianora


 This egroup is based on the website http://www.vertetsable.com -
 more commonly known as The Renaissance Tailor; Recreating 16th
 and 17th Century Clothing.
 Yahoo! Groups Links

 * To visit your group on the web, go to:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheRenaissanceTailor/

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 * To change settings online go to:
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RE: [h-cost] Costume Valuation

[Wanda Pease]

Kathy,

This is an incredible collection and should be worth a lot.  However the
pool of buyers who can actually pay what they are worth is small.  It is
even smaller when you realize that these are garments meant to fit one
person.  This means that the lovely lady of size 6 may have to pass up her
dearest wish gown if it is made only in size 16 (the opposite of my
problem!)  Nothing is worth money unless there are people willing to buy it.
I'm saying this only because it sounds to me as though you don't want 
your
personal worth to be counted as very high due to these garments. If you do
want them to be higher, estimate the hours of work and multiply by about
$12.00 or more per hour.  That being a very inexpensive Courture
designer/maker.

Regina (been there but lucked out.  I have a hole in my life and my heart,
but the money side worked out painlessly for a wonder.)


 Gah! It's the missing link!
 Sorry I didn't include it.

 http://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/KathySCostuming

 Kathy


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RE: [h-cost] More info on my lectures in Oregon

[Wanda Pease]

See you there Robin!!!  My check went into the mail yesterday for both
sessions!

Regina/Wanda

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Robin Netherton
 Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:41 PM
 To: Historic Costume List
 Subject: [h-cost] More info on my lectures in Oregon



 Information on my upcoming lecture day, Oct. 20, in Eugene, Oregon, is now
 online here:

 http://www.costumetalk.com/CTinfo/

 with details on my lectures here:

 http://costumetalk.com/CTinfo/index.php?option=com_contenttask=vi
ewid=15Itemid=36

On Oct. 21, Tammie Dupuis (The Renaissance Tailor) will be speaking.
Information on her lecture is on the same website.

Forward at will.

--Robin


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RE: [h-cost] Underwear

[Wanda Pease]

 Only the Shadow knows...

Oh, I haven't heard that one in years. The horror of it all is that I
remember listening to it on the Big living room sized radio!  Maybe that's
why I remember the horrors of the monthly Attack of the Slime Monster and
the attendant unpleasantness.  However, those memories have blissfully faded
with the time of the great release!

Regina

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RE: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany

[Wanda Pease]

ER...  Bayreuth being near Nuremberg.   Well, they are in much the same way
that LA is close to San Francisco.  Always remember that any short-cut
that takes you off the Autobahn will double your travel time :-)

Regina (who lived there many years and just came back from a visit to what
had always been East Germany when she was there before)

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
 Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 9:01 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany


 I see Bayreuth is near Nuremburgwe will be in Germany at this
 time, near there.  Too bad I don't have anything to wear!

 Sg


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RE: [h-cost] Bayreuth Germany

[Wanda Pease]

True, in mileage they aren't far apart.  One thing I learned after living
many years over there was that you don't look at mileage so much as time it
takes :-).  I drive well over 400 miles in a weekend to see friends in
Renton, WA while I live in Portland, Oregon.  Time on a good day is about
2-3 hours.  My last trip took over 6 hours thanks to roadwork combined with
traffic.

Certainly don't mean to scare anyone off, but I've made that 50 mile trip in
two or three hours (!) sometimes.  It's good to give yourself more time than
you might judging from driving time west of the Rockies :-)

Wanda

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Beteena Paradise
 Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 8:00 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayrueth Germany


 The distance isn't quite so bad. LA and SF are over 300 miles
 apart. Bayreuth and Nuremberg are about 50 miles apart. I've
 known people to drive farther than that for Krispy Kreme donuts! :)

 Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  ER... Bayreuth being
 near Nuremberg. Well, they are in much the same way
 that LA is close to San Francisco.
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RE: [h-cost] ironing washed linen--warning

[Wanda Pease]

 I am wondering where the cooling the linen before ironing
 originated.  Some
 of you mentioned that your mothers taught you to do this.  It makes me
 wonder if this method was something that was passed down through the
 generations.  I checked in my 1894 Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods and
 cooling the linen is not mentioned.

 Penny Ladnier,

Actually my mother used to put things in the refrigerator or freezer in
order to keep them from developing mildew before she got around to ironing
them.  She had a full time job as a Hospital pharmacist and clothing could
be washed on one Saturday and ironed when she had the time and energy to do
so.

Wanda

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RE: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix Jackie Kennedy is Historic

[Wanda Pease]

I went in Costume to the book party but didn't get my book with the crowd at
the stroke of midnight!  Big Mistake!  My book didn't come until after 3pm
and my housemate's until the next day!  I have to have that book read by
about 11am because I'm helping my son move his fiancee.  She just suffered
an ectopic pregnancy that burst and nearly killed her so she is to be duct
taped to a chair and allowed to offer nothing but advice as we crate her
stuff prior to her new house!

Regina (saw the movie at the Seattle IMAX with the fight scene in 3D - WoW!)

 I was going to see the movie this coming weekend as I hate dealing with
 large crowds, but the last Harry Potter book will be hitting my mailbox
 sometime Saturday, so I will have to read the last book first!!

 Cindy Abel




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RE: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix

[Wanda Pease]

I may get banned for saying this, but I was so irritated at the liberties
they took with Umbridge that she grated on me the entire movie.  She is so
particularly described as frog-like and wearing an Alice Band (a hair band
for those US types that never saw the Tennille drawings for Alice in
Wonderland!).  This woman did the syrupy sweet b*(h, but was too tall, and
too together to suit my vision.  I missed Peeves too!

I suppose that to do it justice this book needs someone to do it in 3 movies
(the fight scene alone would make an entire movie!) like Lord of the Rings!

Man did I recognize that Pink clothing from the Jackie Kennedy days!  Thank
God I wasn't wearing it, but I do recognize it!

Wanda

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 2:10 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix


 Went to see this movie yesterday.  Of special interest to me was the
 wardrobe of Dolores Umbridge.  I think they cornered the market
 on pink  boucle.  One
 great outfit after another, all in shades of pink/fushia/soft
 red, and great
 cat jewelry.

 Ann Wass




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RE: [h-cost] What R U doing this weekend ?- was Testing...

[Wanda Pease]

Julian/Matthew I envy you from the bottom of my heart!

Just got back from Germany with photos, Flea Market Stuff, and the worst
respiratory Virus I have every had and moved to tell about it.  The trip
planners brought it especially from Old Virginia to infect the raging pack
of us.  Lubeck to Nuremberg with a long stop in Quedlinburg and Goslar for
Walpurgisnacht (Night on Bald Mountain for those Fantasia Fans).
Unfortunately no Drachenwald events, and only the National German History
Museum in Nuremberg.  Still 16 cloudless days of perfect temperatures isn't
something for a Visitor to cry about.  The German farmers are doing that for
the lack of rain this spring.

Have a great time

 Regina Romsey, 5th Viscountess Drachenwald


   My House is sorting equipment and pre-packing - to travel to
 the UK Mainland to take part in West Dragonshire's Winchester
 Pilgrimage [weekend June 1st to 3rd] see some pictures at
 http://www.westdragonshire.org/pilgrimage
 - based upon the medieval Almshouses  Hospital of St Cross,
 [Winchester, Hampshire, UK,]  - which latter is a group of almost
 unaltered medieval buildings continuously-occupied by the
 Brothers Of St. Cross since it's Foundation.
   The location has almost no anachronisms in view once through
 the gateway; and the Brothers all wear monkish robes, too, as
 daily-garb, - which helps the effort of belief.
   Next Saturday morning's 3 hrs pilgrimage walk will be along the
 path through the watermeadows beside the River Itchen,
 finishing-up at Winchester Cathedral; and then walking back to St Cross.
   Satruday night's Feast will be held in the Hospital's medieval
 Hundred Mens' Hall.
   IMHO, this will be one of the two events in Drachenwald this
 year [the other wil be Ffair Raglan III ] at which Society
 members will be able most easily - and with minimum effort of
 imagination - to experience those rare  precious moments when
 one may look round and think one's self back in the medieval Period.
   So for my Lady and I this weekend will continue to be a weekend
 of happy anticipation, and pre-packing equipment.

   YiS,
   Matthew Baker



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RE: [h-cost] Moda a firenze

[Wanda Pease]

 Has anyone heard when these are coming? I pre-ordered, but seem to recall
 some people saying they had already received theirs?
 Sharon C.



I think those who mentioned they had gotten their copies had actually gotten
copies of the first printing.  According to Ian Stevens of David Brown
books, they are supposed to get their shipment on 1 April.  Sounds like a
bad day for something as important as this doesn't it?

By the way, it was Mr. Stevens who mentioned that the museum was
contemplating doing a male version (Cosimo maybe?).  I told him that I
wanted to be on the pre-order site and he must have chuckled into his
morning coffee (I'm sure it is a nice but evil chuckle) because he wrote me
back that I would definitely be on his list of suckers, er People to notify
as soon as he had information.

That charming evil chuckle is the reason I'm already on the pre-order list
for the Howard - Dress at the Court of Henry VIII which isn't scheduled to
come out until October (We wants it we does!  Ye My Prescious!)

I just finished my Income Taxes... Yes, I know I'm a slug about such things.
It's just that doing them causes my blood pressure to rise and anyone who
knows me stay as far from the scene as possible.  As the painful process
continues I get more and more like a wounded wolverine in temperament.  Even
the cats huddle in fear under the bed - probably because that's where I put
them and lock the door for their protection!

At any rate the finished tax return which is significantly smaller than last
year for some reason - (probably because I paid every penny I could into the
tax exempt IRA account).  However there is plenty there to put in the book
buying frenzy account unless I spend it all going to Germany and Poland at
the end of April beginning of May.  Getting there is cheap!  Staying there
is definitely going to close down my expendable cash reserves!

Wanda

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[h-cost] New Henry VIII Dress Book

[Wanda Pease]

David Brown Book Company is enticing those of us that the marketing director
knows are addicted to well researched costume and history books.
They expect to be bringing a hard back and paperback version of Howard's new
Dress at the Court of Henry VIII out in October.  Watch this space for more
details.  Only thing I know now is this puppy is not a costume book but an
academic one more on the order of Queen Elizabeth's Closet.  I.e.  it isn't
going to be cheap.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
...whatever you've done, whatever you've been, is all, totally, one
hundred percent, your own fault.


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RE: [h-cost] More Moda a Firenze

[Wanda Pease]

Get it now!  I don't think that there will be another printing as the two
companies that are bringing it out will probably feel that they have
saturated the market for such an expensive book.

Because Ian Stevens is My Man at Davis Brown books I made the same deal with
them and bought the book about Anglo Saxon stuff as well.  Yes I have a copy
of the first printing, but the second should make a great wedding or
Laureling Present!

Regina Romsey

 I just had an update on my order with Michael Shamansky Booksellers
 (contact info below).  They are offering free shipping on Moda a Firenze
 (anywhere in the USA) thru March 31, 2007.  Their price is $90 and they
 are expecting within the next 1-2 weeks.  I think he said they are
 getting theirs via airfreight.

 I could kick myself for not getting this when it first came out, the
 reprint was great news, but that is not making the wait any easier :).

 Catherine

 Contact info;
 Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
 P.O. Box 3904
 Kingston, New York 12402

 Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
 Fax:  845-331-0852

 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Url:  www.artbooks.com



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[h-cost] Last 6 Stepping Through Time

[Wanda Pease]

Ian Stevens - DBBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] of David Brown book company
says they have the last 6 of the book titled:  Stepping Through Time;
Archeological footwear from prehistoric times until 1800 by Olaf Goubitz.
They are priced at $100.  Amazon has them used and new from $167.  Lots of
shoe patterns, and where they came from by an expert in the field.

He does not expect them to be re-published.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
...whatever you've done, whatever you've been, is all, totally, one
hundred percent, your own fault.


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RE: [h-cost] Re: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint

[Wanda Pease]

Glad to hear that Michael Shamansky will also be carrying it.  Considering
how quickly the first edition sold out, I don't think we are going to have a
bidding war going on between the two companies.  I suspect that those I saw
looking wistfully at the last copy Pastiche had as I laid my plastic down
because I couldn't bear to see a good friend pass it up for a little thing
like she was going to England the next week and had no free cash, will be
happy to find it at either place.  So will the Book Sellers of Pennsic!

I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director knows me by
name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an Agent of
Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher.  I've also had
wonderful dealings and gotten great books at prices that I could never have
afforded otherwise.

Michael Shamansky's offerings are always at full price.  I'm not putting the
company down for that!  They carry first rate books from places that I'd
never think to look.  However, I'm a born bargain shopper, and completely
helpless when it comes to foreign languages.  I've paid big bucks for books
in languages I couldn't read without a x to x dictionary if they had enough
color plates.  Still, it tickles my fancy to find something exotic at a
$9.95 price tag.

Regina Romsey
 
 Michael Shamansky will also be carrying it.  He told me he has
 contracted for half the edition.  Current price is $99.99 but he admits
 that could change depending on exchange rates and shipping but he will
 be trying to keep it as low as possible.  Contact information for him
 is:

 Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
 P.O. Box 3904
 Kingston, New York 12402

 Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
 Fax:  845-331-0852

 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Url:  www.artbooks.com

 Catherine
 who has really regretted not having gotten this book earlier and has a
 copy on order.  Come on April!!


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RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint

[Wanda Pease]

I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book.  David Brown
books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it.  That way they can do
all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but don't
quote me yet) and making it available.  They speak English, they do mail
order all the time; they take plastic.  I've even known them to make a deal
where you pay in installments!

If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance either
in costuming or in history (or both).  You NEED this book!

Stay tuned to this Group for further developments!

Regina Romsey

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sharon Collier
 Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 10:21 PM
 To: 'Historical Costume'
 Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint


 I want one. How can I reserve it? I tried to contact Polistampa, (in
 Italian) but I don't know if the email got to them. At least, I haven't
 heard from them since I sent it a week ago.
 Sharon C.



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RE: [h-cost] Seeking early edition of Norris

[Wanda Pease]

Robin,

I have an original bound copy.  I'm just heading for work.  If no one 
else
comes back to you first, I should be about to get it to you in about 9
hours.

Regina Romsey (AnTir)


 Does anyone on the list have in their own collection a copy of the
 original editions of Herbert Norris's Costume  Fashion, vol. 2 (Senlac
 to Bosworth, 1066-1485) -- as opposed to the Dover reprint?

 I need to compare a passage in two printings: 1927 and 1931.

 The Dover reprint is supposedly a republication of the 1927 edition, but
 the quote I'm looking at very likely refers to another work that wasn't
 published till 1928. Thus my quandary. I need to know which of them was
 drawing on the other, and that means figuring out when Norris first made
 his statement.

 I can probably get one via ILL, but I don't think I can get both
 simultaneously. If necessary, I'll start running around to the local
 university libraries, but I thought I'd try here first. If it turns out
 the quote is in only one volume, I can try to ILL that from here.

 --Robin



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[h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint

[Wanda Pease]

e-mail message from POLISTAMPA
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 3:51 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'


P O L I S T A M P A




  Via Santa Maria 27/r · 50125 Firenze
  Tel. 055 2337702 - fax info/ufficio stampa 055 229430
  E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Via Livorno 8/31 · 50142 Firenze
  Tel. 055 7326272 - fax ammin./magazz. 055 7377428
  E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]




  Gentile Cliente,
  siamo lieti di informarLa che nel prossimo mese di marzo sarà
ristampato uno dei più pregiati volumi editi da Polistampa:  A
href=http://www.polistampa.com//asp/sl.asp?id=3653; target=blankModa a
Firenze 1540-1580. Frutto della lunga e accurata ricerca di due note
studiose di storia del tessuto e del costume, interamente illustrato a
colori, tradotto in un ottimo inglese, questo grande volume ha riscosso
molto successo in Italia e all'estero. Esaurito da due mesi, sarà ristampato
in marzo per essere in libreria ad aprile 2007. Può prenotare il libro già
da adesso con lo sconto del 20%.

  Cordiali saluti,

Antonio Pagliai
Ufficio Promozione POLISTAMPA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]









Sconto 20%


Stampa ottimizzata
  Bruna Niccoli / Roberta Orsi Landini

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580
Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza



II edizione / II edition

In reprint, available only from April 2007
You can book it with 20% discount

Italian-English texts, including: Eleonora di Toledo Duchess of
Tuscany in history and legend; Eleonora's style; Costume in the Medici
ceremonies; The clothes that have survived; The individual garments; Tailors
and embroiderers; Florentine textile production; The wardrobe of Eleonora di
Toledo; etc. (source: artbooks.com).
© Firenze: Pagliai Polistampa 2005, 32cm., cloth, 252 pp., ca.
120 plates, most in color, ? 58,00, ISBN: 8883048679
__

In ristampa, disponibile solo da aprile 2007
Prenotabile con lo sconto del 20%

Firenze, 1539: l'arrivo di Eleonora da Toledo, figlia del viceré
di Napoli e giovane sposa di Cosimo de' Medici, port a in città un clima
nuovo. La moda fiorentina, ancora sotto l'influenza del moralismo del
Savonarola, si apre, grazie allo stile della duchessa, al gusto
internazionale.
Ma, pur essendo amante del lusso e delle novità che giungono
dalle principali corti europee, Eleonora è attenta a non urtare la
suscettibilità dei suoi sudditi attraverso un'eccessiva ostentazione. Adotta
uno stile sobrio, in cui elementi della tradizione si combinano con le
novità, modello di misura ed armonia per le successive sovrane di Firenze.
Il guardaroba della duchessa, ricostruito sui documenti d'archivio, quasi
nella sua completezza, permette un'analisi accurata di ogni singolo capo di
vestiario, visivamente individuato nella ritrattistica coeva; di ogni capo
si segue l'evoluzione di foggia e di gusto nel corso di quarant'anni circa.

Testi in italiano e in inglese
Pagliai·Polistampa
I edizione: maggio 2005; I ristampa: marzo 2007




© 2005, cm 24x31, pp. 256, ill. col., cart., € 58,00
ISBN: 88-8304-867-9
Collana: Pagliai Polistampa / Cataloghi d'arte, 50
Settore: TL6 / Moda
Altri settori: A1 / Storia dell'arte, A4 / Arti minori, DSU1 /
Storia

Rassegna stampa:
Eleonora Style (Maria Novella Batini, «Toscana Qui»)
Alla moda di Eleonora (Elettra Gullè, «Toscana Tascabile»)
Firenze nel '500
La moda secondo Eleonora (Silvia Gigli, «Informatore»)
Moda a Firenze, lo stile di Eleonora (Rebecca Romoli, «Toscan a
Oggi»)
Il volume Moda a Firenze 1540-1580 dell'editore Polistampa: uno
spaccato nella moda e nel costume italiani (senza firma, «MarketPress»)
Lettera da Firenze (Pier Francesco Listri, «Il Giornale»)
Eleonora di Toledo. Un libro ricostruisce l'abbigliamento e lo
stile della moglie di Cosimo I (Domenico Del Nero, «Il Giornale»)
La 'zampata' di Eleonora di Toledo, graduchessa di Toscana
(Sandra Salvato, «La Nazione»)
Un libro su Eleonora di Toledo, l'aristocratica che fece moda
(Alessandro Guasti, «Metropoli»)
Zeppe e pantaloni alla pescatora di una stilista del Cinquecento
(Letizia Cini, «La Nazione»)
Calzoni al ginocchio e scarpe con la zeppa, la moda del XVI
secolo a Firenze (senza firma, «Adnkronos»)
La moda del ’500 attraverso lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo
(senza firma, «Nove da 

RE: [h-cost] RE: Schuette

[Wanda Pease]

That looks like the big ones all right.  The smaller 1 volume Pictorial
History was published in the US in English in 1964.  This one will go onto
my new Optic Book scanner which only handles 8.5 x 11.  The big 2 volume set
are too large to go on any xerox I have access to, so it will be a digital
camera project.

Wanda


 I found these but could not find an English edition. Were these what you
 were talking about?

 Beth

 Gestickte Bildteppiche und Decken des Mittelalters by Schuette, Marie.
 Leipzig: K.W. Hiersemann, 1927. First edition. Cloth (hardback). Elephant
 Folio (51 cm). Illus. with 20 color and 42 monochrome collotype
 reproductions. Embroidered Fancy Tapestries and coverlets of the Middle
 Ages. The first of three projected volumes (volume III was never
 published). It is still the standard work on the subject. Of the
 62 51x65.5
 cm plates, 28 are of tapestries and altar-cloths of the nunnery of
 Wienhausen near Celle, 30 of the nunnery Lune near Luneburg, and 4 of the
 Luneburg Museum. Text in German. Issue B bound in buckram with the plates
 folded and mounted on guards in the middle (issue A was a double-size
 portfolio, unfolded). Includes the offering prospectus in English from B.
 Westermann.

 Gestickte Bildteppiche Und Decken Des Mittelalters by Schuette,
 Marie. Band
 II: Braunschweig; Die Kloester Ebstorf  Isenhagen; Wernigerode; Kloster
 Druebeck; Halberstadt. 52 plates (12 color), folio.



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RE: [h-cost] RE: Schuette

[Wanda Pease]

I've got the smaller Pictorial History of Embroidery, 1969, US edition by
Marie Schuette and Sigrid Mueller-Christianson Frederick A. Praeger,
Publisher.  It is all in English.
Multnomah County Library puts it this way:

  A pictorial history of embroidery / [by] Marie Schuette [and] Sigrid
Muller-Christensen. [Text translated by Donald King] Schuette, Marie,
1878-1960.
New York, Praeger [1964, c1963]xxiv, 336 p. 484 illus., 29 col. plates. 30
cm.
R- 746.44 S38p

The BIG two volume edition lives in the depths of the Multnomah County
Library, and was a gift when it came out in about 1929 and is named this:
  Gestickte Bildteppiche und Decken des Mittelalters / herausgegeben von
Marie Schuette. Schuette, Marie, 1878-1960.
Leipzig, K. W. Hiersemann, 1927-v. double plates (part col.) 51 cm.
R- 746.3 S38

Yes, they are in German, but who cares?  I want the photos, and I can bull
my way through German with the help of several German-English dictionaries.

Regina


  Gestickte Bildteppiche und Decken des Mittelalters by Schuette, Marie.
  Leipzig: K.W. Hiersemann, 1927. First edition. Cloth (hardback).
  Elephant Folio (51 cm). Illus. with 20 color and 42 monochrome
  collotype reproductions. Embroidered Fancy Tapestries and coverlets of
  the Middle Ages.

 If that's the title, it's a completely different book (rather than an
 earlier edition) that the one that I know.  Its German title is Das
 Skiekerwerk (if I spelled that correctly) it's co-written by Marie
 Schuette and Ingrid Mueller Christensen -- and is titled A Pictorial
 History of Embroidery.

 Susan


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RE: [h-cost] RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

[Wanda Pease]

You didn't see it in the library because I'd had to consult it recently and
it was up by the computer.  Now I have a new scanner I'm going to see if I
can scan it in without breaking the binding and have my very own CD/DVD
copy.  I would expect that it would also manage to duplicate itself a few
times and if I left those dups lying around they might take it into their
little bitty byte minds to wander Montanawards!

Regina


 Re: [h-cost] RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery


 Dang! Can't believe I missed seeing that in your library.  Are you *sure*
 you don't want to adopt me? bats eyelashes winsomely  I cook, I
 clean cat
 boxes, I even do windows ;o)
 If you'll put up with me, I'll definitely have to come visit again, when
 there's not so much going on!
 --Sue in Montana, where it's sunny but pretty cold!



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RE: [h-cost] Schuette was RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

[Wanda Pease]

 Which is the 336pp., 11.5 x 8.5. (29 colour plates and 463 in
 b/w). Praeger
 1964 edition?

 Beth


That's the little single volume one.  I think the two volume tombstone size
books came out in about 1929.  Some of the items shown in those books no
longer exist thanks to the Big war that swept across Europe a few years
later.

Regina






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[h-cost] Mode di Firenzie

[Wanda Pease]

You know that lovely Italian/English book that we all wanted because of the
Eleonora of Toledo stuff?  I suggested to Ian Stevens of David Brown Books
that maybe they could get hold of it and distribute it.  Michael Shamansky
Art Books was the only place I managed to get mine a year ago.  Here is what
Ian has  found out:

By the way.  The Inventories of Henry VIII (Starkey ed.) have been marked
back down to $72 on their website.  You don't want to know what new books
they have though!  Anyone want a nice facsimile edition of the Luttrell
Psalter?


At 12:28 AM 12/9/2006, you wrote:
Is there any way that Oxbow or David Brown could get hold of  Moda a
Firenze
1540-1580 from the Museum that publishes it?

Hi Wanda,

The publisher tells us that the book is out of print! So, buy one if
you get the chance (whatever the cost!). Yikes!

Best,

Ian



Ian Stevens
Vice President
The David Brown Book Company
Box 511 (28 Main St)
OAKVILLE, CT 06779

Tel: 860-945-9329
Fax: 860-945-9468

www.oxbowbooks.com

The David Brown Book Company is the US arm of Oxbow Books. DBBC
distributes and markets scholarly and specialist books to the North
American academic community. The company has a strong focus on books
in the following disciplines: Archaeology, Classics, the Ancient Near
East, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Studies, Religion, Literary Studies 
Linguistics, Food History and Genealogy




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RE: [h-cost] Mode di Firenzie

[Wanda Pease]

just go to the http://www.oxbowbooks.com website and click on the $ and do
the search for the Inventories.   Warning, Warning Will Robinson. The books
that are on the same page are DANGEROUS to your pocketbook!

Wanda

 Hi Wanda,

   I am trying to get the Henry VIII book for my Christmas present
 from my husband. Must remember to sweet talk him tonight after
 the kids are in bed.

   And oh, my, I am glad I got my copy of the Moda book. Thanks
 for the heads up.

   Kimiko



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RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768

[Wanda Pease]

Dr. Who?..  or Fold Box from Glory Road
 Issue 768
 
 
 Tardis?
 --Sue
 
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RE: [h-cost] a question about museums

[Wanda Pease]

Goodness Gracious but I seem to be putting out a lot of grumpy posts lately.

Museums and many collections make the money to allow them to be open at
all from public donations, a tax stipend, or ticket sales.  All of these
come out of the public pocket.  Those who will not allow a member of that
public to take their own pictures without paying the high prices of a
professional strike me as a bit dog in the manger types (sorry Bjarne,
it's one of the Aesop tales - I'm sure it's familiar to you with different
wording).  When I took pictures in the Museum of Munich of the various
garments on display the only thing that they required is that I not utilize
a tripod or a flash.  The guard in each room asked me to demonstrate that I
had the flash off before I could take pictures in his room.  That way the
pieces were not being exposed to any more light than they ever were.  I had
two cameras with me.  One was a regular Pentax camera with 1600 ASA film,
but no flash attachment (he seemed to be a bit puzzled by that, I'm not sure
he'd seen a film camera before) and a 5Megabyte Sony (?).  I knew how to
turn the flash on and off, something that too many idiot tourists didn't, or
couldn't see why THEY should be restricted by such rules.  Something I doubt
that any on this list would give them a hassle about.

My non flash pictures with the film camera came out better than I could
actually see the items, which were kept in fairly dim rooms.

I know that someone is going to point out that the money the museum earns
from photographic reprints is a large part of their budget.  This is all
very well, but the pictures and other works of art and history are not
THEIRS.  They are caring for them for the people.  Well, I'm one of the
people too!  If it weren't for me and people like me the items would be used
to cover cabbages to keep them from frost.

Civil Servant (I'm One) does not equate to Civil Master.  The things in
museums are financed with your money!  Therefore it is not unreasonable for
you to be allowed to photograph an item very carefully so that possibly
hundreds of people could share your information and not just the few that
manage to come through their museum every year!

On the other hand I have been able to make arrangements with museums and
libraries in Germany and England and have them fall all over themselves to
help me get exactly what I wanted and allowed me to distribute as many
copies as I wanted (free, of course) as long as I mentioned them, and gave
their address.

Wanda

 Hi,
 Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a
 photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be
 expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.
 I got the
 feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
 These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but
 beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the
 seams. And
 besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a
 boatshaped
 neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
 I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the
 photo from
 the book, because it is so beautifull.

 Bjarne


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[h-cost] 2 Very Expensive Books

[Wanda Pease]

I'm sorry that I'm shot gunning this out to each of the lists that I think
might have the info, but I've deleted it and have people who are looking at
me in an unloving way.

There were two books that came out very recently about the final
conservation of some of the smaller objects from a Scandinavian dig.  Price
for the pair was about $250 or so (made my eyes cross and my credit cards
stay firmly in my wallet)  At any rate I deleted the messages about them,
then cleared out my outbox.

Does this ring any bells for anyone?  They are new, the only place to get
them is the National Museum; they are Scandinavian (okay, they might have
been Viking (job description not a people).  Can Someone help Please!

Saint Phlip?

Wanda Pease
Everything is easy as long as someone else has to do it!

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RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit

[Wanda Pease]

Small Brag.  There is a fairly large book with the exhibit, and some
paintings I understood they refused to loan outside of Europe.  I have that
book because a friend drove from Frankfurt am Main to Brussels to get it for
me!

Ah, the days of Occupied Germany and 2 DF equaling $1.00! (Ah, the days
that is, because it certainly didn't cost that when he bought it.  But APO
mailing rates certainly helped.

Go see it if you possibly can because there are many many Holbein's, and
Cranach's (surprise, surprise) in what used to be the Iron Curtain
countries!

Wanda

 Thank you Janet for sharing this.

   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in
 England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting
 for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright
 restriction is not on the website?

   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has
 another book that is thicker
   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
   Does anyone know of any details on this book?

   Thank you,

   Kimiko


 JAMES OGILVIE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 There's a nice on-line display of Holbein's English work at
 http://www.tate.org.uk/britain/exhibitions/holbein/default.shtm .
 Most of the pictures of women are already well-known but some of
 the men (and their clothes) were new to me. There are also a
 number of studies of jewelry.

 Janet


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RE: [h-cost] shuttle

[Wanda Pease]

 Does someone have access to:

 Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
 by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
 (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public
 Administration
 (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986

 It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I
 understand that
 a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the
 image and text about the shuttle for me, please?

 Thanks.
 Beth

Sorry, I don't have the book, but my library is pretty good about getting
some fantastic stuff through ILL that other libraries can't/won't.  If you
would like me to try let me know (unless you are a ILL librarian yourself,
which is certainly possible on this list!)

This book is about to be printed (re-printed?) for Amazon.co.uk for a mere
$134 (unless the Euro/Pound/Dollar do more nasty things :

Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
(Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator)




Our Price: ?62.10 + ?1.99 sourcing fee  (That's the $134) (Gleek!!!)


Availability: Usually dispatched within 4 to 6 weeks. Please note that
titles occasionally go out of print or publishers run out of stock. Learn
more
Note: due to the availability of this product, orders placed now for this
item will not be dispatched in time for Christmas. See last-order dates.
However, it may still be possible to buy it new and used from our
third-party sellers. Dispatched from and sold by Amazon.co.uk.

The book is currently owned by these libraries (don't know if they would
loan it, but they DO have it:
FLORIDA INT UNIV FXG

IL UNIV OF CHICAGO CGU

KY UNIV OF LOUISVILLE KLG

NC UNIV OF N CAROLINA, CHAPEL HILL NOC

PA PENNSYLVANIA STATE UNIV UPM
PA UNIV OF PENNSYLVANIA PAU

TX TEXAS AM UNIV TXA

EU BRITISH LIBR BRI
EU BRITISH LIBR UKM
EU CAMBRIDGE UNIV CUD
EU CARDIFF UNIV RDF
EU GLASGOW UNIV LIBR QCL
EU NATIONAL  UNIV LIBR OF ICELAND, THE UIY
EU NATIONAL UNIV OF IRELAND MAYNOOTH EIS
EU UNIV OF OXFORD EQO
EU UNIV OF WALES, BANGOR EQF

Record for Item: Late Viking age and medie...  I used the key word search
Watterford and Scully under author.

The idiots who published it initially only printed 500 copies (they are
idiots when WE want the book.  Otherwise they are good business people).
Best thing the Authors could have done would have been to put it up on the
web and ask for donations.  At least the Authors and illustrators would have
made something for their work. You can be sure that they practically had to
pay the publisher to deign to put out their material otherwise.

Regina


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