Re: KR> Cockpit vacuum gauge
Jeff said, > "I don't think the manifold pressure gauge [vacuum gauge] is going to tell you much other than your throttle setting for a given altitude." It won't even do that if you fly wide open throttle - which if above 8K I assume everyone does. Steve Bennett had a chart that showed what information could be derived from a vaccuum gauge. I just went looking for it but couldn't find it. It's out there on the internet - behavior of the needle indicating various possible engine problems. Steve once recommended I put one in so I did . . . but I've never found the gauge useful at all. The way I fly, unless I've just taken off and am climbing, it always reads zero. Mike KSEE --- Actually, a manifold pressure gauge will show absolute pressure, which changes with altitude even at full throttle. (30 in manifold pressure at sea level vs 20 in manifold pressure at 10,000'). That allows you to calculate percent power. FWIW, I am almost always flying above 8000' since the airport is at 7200', but I rarely cruise at full throttle. I suspect the initial question was asked based on the vacuum gauge interpretations on this web site: <http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm>. First off, the interpretations on that web site are pretty lose interpretations. Secondly, the things they are interpreting via a vacuum gauge would be detected much earlier during any type of regular engine maintenance (differential compression test, mag drop test on run-up, and mag timing check). The third point is that a manifold pressure gauge is usually installed with a restricted port, and a fairly long 1/8" copper line, so any of the vacuum interpretations from that web site would be pretty well buffered out of the manifold pressure gauge readings. That is by design in order to prevent having a significant vacuum leak into the intake manifold should the line to the manifold pressure gauge fail. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> cockpit vacuum gauge
I have a manifold pressure gauge in my KR. It's nice for fine tuning throttle settings and calculating percent power, but it's only there as a personal preference and is completely unnecessary without a constant speed prop. Can't say that I would be able to diagnose valve issues or engine health with it. I find EGTs and a static compression differential test to be a much better indicator of what's going on with the engine. 1 EGT running 50 - 100° higher than normal is an indication that a spark plug is not firing. All EGTs running 50-100° higher than normal is an indication that a mag may have failed. Just pulling the engine through as part of your preflight should indicate if you have a valve or cylinder issue as you'll feel the soft cylinder and will hear it leaking. I've seen a lot of different failures in aircraft engines, but short of launching a cylinder off the case, I don't think the manifold pressure gauge [vacuum gauge] is going to tell you much other than your throttle setting for a given altitude. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM -- Subject: KR> cockpit vacuum gauge Anyone running a vacuum gauge in their panel. Is it not an indicator of engine health, valves etc Craig ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Melting lead
You are allowed to expose yourself to lead if you choose. I think most of us have, including me on numerous occasions. But after watching a friend's illness with lead poisoning from bead blasting aircraft cylinders IN a bead blasting cabinet, I don't work with lead anymore without adequate precautions. I would suggest you describe your operation to an Industrial Hygienist and ask for an opinion. You might be surprised at what they say. I can tell you from work that I am required to take about the same precautions when casting, melting or forming Lead as when doing equivalent work with Uranium. Once you get a dose of lead poisoning, you end up doing Chelation Therapy for years to reduce the amount of the heavy metals in your system and get your head on straight again. The point of the post isn't that you can't melt lead and get away with it. The point is that lead is highly toxic and there are other ways to form your counterweights without exposing yourself to the potential of lead poisoning. Lead poisoning sneaks up on you first as memory loss or lack of ability to concentrate. It can be confused with symptoms of aging, so Drs don't typically test for lead poisoning unless you tell them you have had exposure. Chelation therapy can help you to slowly recover. But it's best not to put yourself into the position to need it. If one feels that they must melt lead, try to do so with good ventilation and take precautions to minimize exposure. What was an acceptable practice in the plans from 45 years ago has been demonstrated to be unnecessary, highly toxic, and a risk to your health. So why do so if you don't need to? -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM --- Subject: Re: KR> Melting lead I have melted lead many times on the stove and I think all my brain cells remain intact. You're melting it, not boiling it, so the amount getting into the air is insignificant. Obviously don't ever use the pot again for food. A tin can sounds like a good idea. Mike Taglieri ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Melting lead
Or you might want to consider using lead shot mixed with epoxy resin and either flox or milled fibers. Makes it easy to mold to shape cold. Lead is a distinctly unhealthy material to be melting. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM Subject: KR> Melting lead First a comment before my question. In the book it says to use an old pot to melt lead down for the aileron counter weight. I'll give you some advise. What you consider an old pot is might be different then what your wife considers an old pot is. Be forewarned How do you melt a 5 lbs chunk of lead on the stove? I did an internet search. Lead melts at 621 degrees. I'm not even getting close to that. Paul Visk Belleville Il. 618-406-4705 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Archives
Ron, That's the way it's supposed to work... in theory. The reality is that many FSDOs simply don't have the manpower to do amateur built inspections. I have seen guys get held up for a year waiting on FSDO to do an inspection because they wouldn't cough up the $500+ travel expenses to pay a DAR. It varies widely from region to region and from time to time. DARs are contractors and charge what they think is reasonable for their services. Some are $200. Some are $1000. Some do good inspections. Some will drive up in their motorhome with the boat on behind, sign the paperwork on the way by while heading for the lake and charge you travel time for it on top of their fees. It's a real crap shoot. However, it is a much better system than what we had prior to the rule changes in 1980. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM - Why do you even need a DAR during the build? 3 visits, for what? The FSDO in your city will come out for free if you can ahead and get on their schedule for a final inspection, which is all that is required (unless the rules have changed)??. RonSt. Louis, MO ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> DAR inspections
Bob, In the US, a DAR inspection is the only FAA inspection required on an Amateur Built Aircraft, and is only performed after the aircraft is completed. All other inspections are typically by an EAA Tech Counselor and are strictly voluntary... i.e. not required. Even the Tech Counselor inspections are only recommended 3 or 4 times during construction. It is highly unlikely that the Canadian Government would be willing to backtrack and allow you to use what they would consider to be uninspected parts such as the box spars, closed out wings, or a closed out fuselage. -Jeff Scott - Hi All; I am considering a project in the U.S. that has no documentation whatsoever and am wondering about DAR inspections. I want to import this project into Canada and our inspections require a pre cover (before box spars etc,are closed in) . What I am wondering is if I might find a number or something that shows it was done in the U.S . In Canada each component is stamped or stickered to show it has been done. The project is fairly complete all spars are closed, wings closed etc.although it would still meet 51% requirement here in Canada. I f I can show the inspections I an import as parts and then continue it. Any thoughts about this? Thanks Bob R Winnipeg Canada ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Tailwheel assembly
You can order direct or through your favorite aircraft parts vendor. If your spring is mounted at a non-standard angle, they will be happy to make one to fit your plane. Choose between the 4" solid tail wheel or the 6" semi-pneumatic tailwheel (hollow inside to make a bit softer). <http://www.apitailwheels.com/products/products.html> -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM --- I have a glass round tailwheel spring from Stev glover where do I get the tailwheel assembled to fit that spring. I have s new Matco unit but it seem very heavy Phil Matheson ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Aileron hinge bolts and BID
Just notch a step into the skin large enough for the false spar to sit in the skin, then scrub the foam out from between the layers about 1/4" deep. Fill with Flox and slide the false spar into place. Your call whether you want to add a layer of glass to it while the flox is wet or not. I had the nutplates already floxed onto the inside of the false spars when I installed them. When I glassed over them, I had a set of screws that I had dipped in floor wax to screw through the wet glass into the nut plates to keep the holes clear. Once cured, they easily unscrewed. No need for a vacuum bag. It hasn't been mentioned in a while, but there have been some failures of the aluminum L bracket that the Aileron counterweight mounts on. Some folks have replaced theirs with 4130 L brackets. I still have the aluminum brackets on my KR after 20 years and 1150 hrs, but if I was building them today, I would use 4130 for the brackets. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM Hi all, On this note, I did the 8/32 pan head off-set; results to follow the next installation: The next steps for the aileron attachment in the plans call for Flox the attachment nut, add the counter weight arm (middle), then 1 layer BID overlapping at least 1 inch. I've been stewing about this for a few weeks. I have wings built with Diehl skins raf48. It seems to me that I should flox or epoxy the 1/4" spar to the wing and to the aileron prior to BID. Did anyone do this? Then apply BID to further secure the aileron. Do I need to use a vacuum bag? Or can I use just gravity and hand placement (assuming I can square the spar with clamps)? Any feedback on process and results would be great! Thanks, Tucker Denver, CO ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Aileron hinge bolts
Unsanctioned by USAF? Yes. We only did that when the inspectors weren't looking. :o) For others, running a tap through the metal self locking nut plates does not destroy their self locking qualities. They don't just bind as tight, so they don't destroy the threads on Stainless screws or bind the steel screws so tight that the heads strip. But they do still bind well enough to meet the specs for a self locking nut. -Jeff Scott -- Subject: Re: KR> Aileron hinge bolts Thanks for the advice guys. Jeff, I thought that was an unique Air Force unsanctioned trick that we used to do years ago. : ) Paul Visk Belleville Il. 618-406-4705 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Aileron hinge bolts
Either method works just fine. I chose to counterbore the hinges and used flush screws with the screws offset between the aileron and the wing. Like Larry, I also floxed a set of #8 nut plates to the back of the mount holes to make them removable. One note on self locking nut plates like what are used in this application. The pinch on the end of the nut plates as manufactured is a bit too tight. Most savvy A will run a tap through the nut plate. They will still be self locking in that the screws will not loosen up, but they won't destroy Stainless screws, and the nut plates won't twist out of the floxed mount if you ever have to remove the aileron. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM --- I'll be ordering my aileron hardware from Wicks soon. In looking in the book at 10.59. It says to use 8/32 pan head bolts for the aileron hinge. Has anyone had problems with sufficient clearance between the heads of the bolts if they're lined up with each other? Or should they be offset. I believe I've seen some people use countersunk bolts. Any advice would be appreciated. Paul Visk Belleville Il. 618-406-4705 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> engine update
Clearly you took good notes when you visited my shop! -Jeff Scott --- Cc: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildr...@hotmail.com> Subject: KR> engine update Larry: I see your problem immediately. Your hangar is too clean for you to get any serious work done. I do not see *any* tools on the floor, *no* old gasket scraps, dripped oil, pieces of snipped safety wire, errant washers, used and bent cotter pins, or any other evidence of actual progress on your engine removal and overhaul. I do not see any masking tape with handwritten labels on any wires or cables on the firewall, no yellow note-pad with items to remember to take care of in reverse order when re-assembling, so it's obvious that you'll never get everything put back in the proper place even if you get the engine overhauled in the first place. Which is questionable, since the short block is not sitting on an old blanket, some old sofa pillows, or a worn-out 6.00x6 tire. These things are necessary for a proper engine rebuild, so you might want to get busy and get your hangar in order. You need to take a serious look at getting your hangar disorganized so you can make measurable progress. And PS, a light coating of spilled Aeroshell 50 with about 20 hours on it will help cut the glare from the overhead lights off that clean floor. Just sayin'. Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Fuel header tank
Like Joe, I also have a small composite header tank and wing tanks. I carry 9 gallons in the header and 6 1/2 in either wing. I run gravity feed from the header at all times, and transfer fuel from the wings to the header periodically in flight. With this type of configuration, I see very little CG shift on any given flight. Some people don't like having fuel in the cockpit. Some of us don't mind having header tanks. That's your call for your own safety. Not having a header tank in the way makes maintenance behind the panel easier. Ultimately, it's your call. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM - Subject: Re: KR> Fuel header tank Hi Deon, I have a KR-2s with a 12 gal. header tank and am currently building another that I retained the same idea but in a slightly smaller form of 7.5 gal. My theory is that gravity never quits so fuel flow would never quit. Having said that the KR2 is much more pitch sensitive. During any cross country flight I probably only adjust trim one time as the fuel is burned off the header tank and it is really not an issue for the 2s stability. The other main issue is safety which is up to any one persons own tolerance. I personally have a fiberglass header tank and the plan is not to break it. That is not good enough for many good men. You have an aluminum tank which may or may not be stronger and less resistant to a rupture. Another down side to wing only is the fuel line and pump layout and operations. Having mentioned all these items I would likely put in wing tanks and ditch the header. I do not know what stag of completion the plane is in but maybe adding to the fuselage length is an option. It would be a far safer airplane by all accounts. Joe Horotn, N357cj - Original Message - Subject: KR> Fuel header tank Hi Guys The partial KR2 (original design) I have bought is fitted with an aluminum fuel tank in front of the instrument panel. From the information I have available this is not a good idea (shift of CoG, fire danger etc.) Would you advise that I ditch this and create wing tanks? Given all the ho-ha about CoG issues I am not sure I will be able to pass inspection with this tank in place! This is a big step for me so some advice would be appreciated. Regards Deon ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Pitch sensitivity
What Chris describes is not at all unusual. A number of aircraft fly better in an aft CG as the elevator gets too heavy with a forward CG. A C-182 is a good example. A 200 horse Muskateer is another. It flies better and is easier to land if your CG is a bit aft simply because the elevator gets so heavy during landing when the CG is forward even though both configurations are still within the acceptable CG range. Flying with a forward CG in these planes requires so much aft trim that the down force on the tail and trim drag is enough that the plane flies slower in a forward CG. The stock KR has so little stabilizer that an aft CG configuration can get very pitchy. I flew my KR with the small tail for 500 hours before cutting it off and building a larger tail. I've flown it another 650 hours since with the larger tail, so I think I can comment on this from a position of first hand experience. After building a larger horizontal stabilizer and elevator, I really don't notice much difference in handling between a forward and aft CG in my KR as long as I stay within the 6" CG range as recommended by most builders. I built the new stab and elevator to an 8' span using the templates Mark provides on his web site. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM --- > Could you go into further detail about "how" it flew better with a forward > CG than an aft CG? Sure, the plane under normal conditions (no baggage) would require significant up trim to unload the stick, and when pulling power, would drop the nose unless you held onto the stick. "Lawn dart"is a description used more than once. Conversely, with plenty of stuff in the baggage compartment (at or near aft CG limit), the plane seemed to "float" in balance and handled much better and was faster to boot. A pure dream to fly. This was discussed often. It was considered by some to be good practice to ignore the front half of the CG envelope. It is possible that the CG envelope was shifted a bit forward than it should have been and in fact I spoke with someone in good authority that the aft limit was quite conservative and flying AT the published aft limit would in fact produce good results, and it did. > See http://www.n56ml.com/wb/index.html for more on the KR aft CG, which I'm > pretty sure is common to most aircraft. This story should scare you...it > certainly scared me! I actually had read that last year, another well written piece and in fact I am sure I saved it to PDF as well in my KR own knowlege base. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> 0-200 engine mount
I've never heard of a KR in need of aft ballast. That would be a truly rare KR. ? ? Sent:?Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 10:50 AM From:?"Ryan via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?Ryan Subject:?Re: KR> 0-200 engine mount To the group, My KR2 is standard length so a heavier engine brings the CG forward. If I move the 200# engine back 1" to 10 ?" firewall clearance that should have the CG more like the VW engine. What should be the minimum firewall clearance to the engine? Has anyone done this to save having to add ballast? Ryan EAA-14 San Diego, CA
KR> 0-200 engine mount
Ryan, ? The drawings I sent you are the same drawings supplied to me by Rand Robinson 20 years ago along with the mount I bought from them at the time that was built to that drawing.? ? Your clearance from the firewall depends on your accessories.? However, for many years I had the antique pull starter and 20 amp generator mounted on the engine.? Those are about as big as you are going to find on that engine, and I had plenty of room to remove and re-install all of the accessories.? Even did so in the field following the KR Gathering three years ago when my generator crapped out just after I left the gathering and I had to install a new generator.? I have since switched to a B starter and Plane Power Alternator, which leaves even more room.? It's probably worth noting that my engine sits a bit closer to the firewall than most O-200s as I used a set of aluminum adapters and the C-85 engine mounts rather than the O-200 mount bushings.? I've got 20 years and 1150 hours flying behind that mount and have never had any problems with access to the back of the engine. ? There are lots of photos of the engine installation on my web site at <http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/2013_Engine.html> ? -Jeff Scott ? --- Sent:?Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 4:41 AM From:?"Ryan via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?Ryan Subject:?KR> 0-200 engine mount I am trying to find out the distance the 0-200 engine should be from the firewall face. The drawing I have indicates 11 ??. Is this what most KR?s have? Should I end up with about 1 ?? of clearance or less? Thanks for any input. Ryan N9099A. Stock KR2
KR> Stick interference
Agreed. In normal flight, they don't move much, but if you fly with strong crosswinds on take off and/or landing, you'll want full throw on the ailerons. -Jeff Scott ? ? Sent:?Monday, December 12, 2016 at 1:13 PM From:?"Mike Stirewalt via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?laser147 at juno.com Subject:?KR> Stick interference Larry said, > Unless you do an aileron roll you'll seldom ever use full left or right stick while in flight. Even an aggressive turn will require maybe have stick throw. That's true, but when landing, nearing the flare, with strong gusts from the side full travel is often very necessary. As you know if you'll think about it. Mike KSEE
KR> Pesak and Sylvester KR2Ss
? Way to go guys.? Glad you're all out flying! -- Subject:?KR> Pesak and Sylvester KR2Ss Both Robert Pesak and Mike Sylvester have recently finished up and been flying their KR2S's, but they didn't make it to the KR Gathering. The three of us got together today down at Mike's airport, which is practically part of the Talladega Speedway in Alabama. We talked a while, joked a bit, froze our buns off, and then flew some. A picture of each (and a link to each of their planes) is located at the top of the KRnet webpage at http://www.krnet.org/. These are two very fine KRs, and will be in serious contention for the awards at the 2017 Gathering at Lee's Summit, Missouri in September. Also see enclosed photo with Robert on the left, Mike in the middle, and Rusty (local Bearhawk/Rebel owner. -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com[http://www.n56ml.com] ?
KR> Diehl landing gear...
At 06:21 PM 12/8/2016, you wrote: >Also an added benefit of not glueing the brackets to the spar will >allow any future decisions to change from tail dragger to nosewheel >configuration or vice versa. >This assumes you drill the bracket holes in both brackets at the >same time (so they are identical.) The brackets move to the rear of >the spar and then swap sides, in the nosewheel configuration I wouldn't get too concerned on drilling the holes as: A. you'll probably never going to swap them side to side and B. If you do and the holes don't match (they'd probably have to be cnc drilled to do so anyway when swapping side to side/ front to back) just plug the old holes and move the brackets inboard or outboard an inch or so. Try not to over complicate the building process or it will never fly. :-) Larry Flesner --- The guy that started the project that eventually became my KR had drilled the spars to mount the gear as a nose-dragger. I left the nose-gear with him and turned the gear around to make it a tail-dragger when I bought the project. Sure glad I was ignorant about needing a CNC or moving the gear location to swap it. He drilled the holes true, and all I had to do was swap sides and turn the gear around. I really don't think of it as being over complicated to drill the holes true on the same pattern side to side. For that matter, I don't understand why one wouldn't at least attempt to do so. -Jeff Scott
KR> engine mount
?4130 is a descriptor of the materials in the steel alloy. 41xx steel is a family of SAE steel grades, as specified by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Alloying elements include chromium and molybdenum, and as a result these materials are often informally referred to as chromoly steel. The 30 in 4130 refers to 30% carbon in the steel. It is lighter and stronger than the standard 1020 mild steel you'll find at the lumber yard. Your local steel supplier may know it better as chrome-moly steel. If he doesn't recognize that, then as Randy says, find another supplier. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? --- Cc:?"Dean Choitz" Subject:?KR> engine mount hate to look to stupid but our local iron supplier has never heard of 4130 iron/steel need to order some material to make a longer mount for cg. question cg 4 inches from leading edge to 14 from leading edge is that what most builders are shooting for thanks dean choitz
KR> Tachometers
When I first finished my KR, I used an analog tach from WesTach with a pulse generator mounted to the tach drive on my O-200. I found that tach had a 200 rpm error in it, but if I remember right, it also didn't require any power other than the pulse generator itself.? I didn't discover the problem for a few years.? Had I have found the issue when it was new, Westach undoubtedly would have replaced/repaired it for me.? ? I replaced the Westach Tachometer with an Analog Tach from UMA that also uses a pulse generator, but requires DC power to operate. The UMA tach is precise and includes an internal Hobbs meter that only runs when turning >1800 rpm to record engine time. I used the same type of UMA tach on my SuperCub when I built it except that it has a transducer that screws into the Slick mag to pick up the pulse signals from the rotating magnets in the magneto. That tach is also very precise. I have found UMA and WesTach both to be very helpful when I've had questions or needed support on one of their instruments.? I had planned to use the pulse generator for the tach in the SuperCub as well, but found that it simply would not fit with the oil filter adapter.? UMA was happy to swap out my tach (4 pulses per revolution from the pulse generator) for another new tach that would work with the magnetor transducer (2 pulses per revolution) at no charge.? When I wanted to set the Hobbs time to match the aircraft time when I installed the new tach in the KR, they were also happy to help get that set as well at no charge.? ? On the non-electric VW powered Avid Flyer I built, I used a Tiny Tach mounted on an ignition lead on a Slick Mag. You do have to remove the shielding from the spark plug lead in the area where the Tiny Tach sense wire is going to wrap onto it. The Tiny Tach worked OK and seemed to be accurate, but it seems that the internal battery didn't last very long. When the battery died, I lost the accumulated hours from the unit.? Lots of people have struggled to get the Tiny Tachs to work properly.? The sense wire has to be installed following "Flemings left hand rule of Magnetism", which is going to be different between solid wires like what are used in aircraft and spiral wound wires like what are used in cars.? Since the Tiny Tachs us an inductive sense wire to pick up the pulses from an ignition wire, they are also sensitive to other induced noises, so in some installations, they may not be reliable or may require some shielding to improve reliability. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? -- Dear All, I find myself in need of a new RPM guage.What kind or type do you use or recommend?? I have been researching rpm guages for a week; mechanical, ones that read off of the P lead, ones that read off of both P leads, devices that plug into the vent hole of my slick magneto, so many. ?I would like to spend less than $200. ? Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
KR> Tachometers
KR> Mgl, dynon,Garmin
The iFly software (and likely most others) can be set so the GPS attached to or installed as part of your ADS-B Receiver will be your primary GPS when it is receiving, and will default back to the internal GPS when it isn't. I use the iFly Software with a SkyGuard TWX ADS-B on both an iFly 740 and a 7" Android. Each of those displays has it's own distinct advantage. The iFly hardware is much more heat tolerant and rugged. The Android (or ipad) can pick up weather via the cell network before the ADS-B wifi comes up, so you get all the TFRs and a nationwide radar snapshot and it has an extended battery life if you lose power for some reason. The iFly 740 keeps the power on long enough to shut down. Somuch for their 15 minutes of battery time. So far the iFly software is not displaying TFRs as provided by the ADS-B receiver. That's supposed to be fixed in a future version. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM - ?I've been using an iPad in the airplane for several years, and am happy ?with it. I took this advice and purchased the IPad mini because it fits on my panel in a holder that I built. ? The full ipad would never have fit. I installed it vertically to leave more room, I seem to be adding more stuff to my console. ?I purchased the iPad mini at a pawn shop for $25. ?Came with a case and charger. ?I am running the ifly gps app, I like the bigger menus because of my fat fingers and airplane vibrations. I am not happy with my gps reception but plan to get the ads b with gps antenna that connects with wifi. ?I hope that will help. Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
KR> 12° ENCUENTRO DE CONSTRUCTORES DE KR, CHIVILCOY 2016
I put him in the wrong country. Yes. Brazil. SkyVector only shows about 50 hrs flight time to get there. ? ? Pretty sure Buenos Aires is in Argentina :-) 2016-11-22 9:44 GMT+10:00 Jeff Scott via KRnet : > For those wondering what Eduardo said: See the Google translation below: > Bottom line we are all invited to the 12th annual KR Gathering... in > Brazil. Personally, in a couple of years after I have retired, I might > want to consider it, especially if we can get a group flying down together. > > -Jeff Scott > > ?
KR> 12° ENCUENTRO DE CONSTRUCTORES DE KR, CHIVILCOY 2016
For those wondering what Eduardo said: See the Google translation below: Bottom line we are all invited to the 12th annual KR Gathering... in Brazil. Personally, in a couple of years after I have retired, I might want to consider it, especially if we can get a group flying down together. -Jeff Scott - Friends And we continue to insist, we are passionate about friendship and build airplanes, this year we are greeted very kindly by the friends of Aero Chivilcoy, Bs. As., Where will take place the (link) 12th ENCOUNTER OF KR CONSTRUCTORS. - 2016. (link) We are the longest and most important itinerant meeting of experimental builders that travels this territory sharing experiences, knowledge and friendship, the people of Aero Chivilcoy waiting for us with open arms and we can not fail, come to know that it is worth. We are proud of this year and we will also have the special participation of the ANAC, who will have a permanent "office" to attend all kinds of queries (registration, project presentation, inspections, etc.) and where we were promised some more surprises. We have everything ready and in time of discount to share 2 days between friends and chatting of those that we like. This year we invited and shared the days with the builders of the FACIL MS1, that every day are more. These are some of the talks and technical presentations that will be given during the day: A .. From 9:00 a.m. _ Reception of attendees B. 14:00 Hs. _ Opening of the 12th Builders Meeting 2016 C. 14:30 Hs. _ "Motivational talk for novice builders", by Marcelo Rodriguez D. 16:00 Hs. _ Electronic injection applied to car engines in airplanes. By Diego Perea E .. 16:40 Hs. _ Presentation, builders showing and describing their work 18:30 Hrs. _ Historical Talk, "HISTORICAL EVOLUTION OF THE EXPERIMENTAL CONSTRUCTIONS IN ARGENTINA", by Francisco Halbriter G. 20:00 Hs. _ End of the Day Hr. 9:00 a.m. _ Dinner of camaraderie (dinner attendance must be confirmed the same day with the organizers) Sunday 27/11/2016 10:30 a.m. _ Presentation of Projects in construction phase, by several constructors. B. 11: 30 "Safety: Lecture by the German Pilot Bruno Gantenbrink", by Marcelo Rodriguez C. 2:00 p.m. _ Technical chat; "EL FACIL MS1", design development and evolution. By Miguel Hector Scheini D. 3:00 a.m. _ Presentation of Projects in construction phase, by several constructors. and.. . 5:00 p.m. _ Appointment of the next headquarters of the 13th MEETING OF BUILDERS 2017, and closure of the event. We hope you do not need reservation, registration or anything, just want to attend. DO NOT SUSPEND BY RAIN ? ? Sent:?Monday, November 21, 2016 at 1:36 PM From:?"Eduardo Barros via KRnet" To:?"Eduardo Barros" , KRnet Cc:?"Eduardo Barros" Subject:?KR> 12? ENCUENTRO DE CONSTRUCTORES DE KR, CHIVILCOY 2016 Amigos Y seguimos insistiendo, nos apasiona la amistad y construir aviones, este a?o nos reciben muy gentilmente los amigos del Aero Chivilcoy, Bs. As., donde tendr? lugar el (link) 12? ENCUENTRO DE CONSTRUCTORES DE KR. - 2016. (link) Somos la reuni?n itinerante de constructores experimentales m?s longeva e importante que recorre este territorio compartiendo experiencias, conocimientos y amistad, la gente del aero Chivilcoy nos espera con los brazos abiertos y no podemos fallarle, ac?rquense que vale la pena. Un orgullo para nosotros, este a?o contaremos tambien con la participaci?n especial de la ANAC, quien dispondr? una "oficina" permanente para atender consultas de todo tipo (matriculaci?n, presentaci?n de proyectos, inspecciones, etc.) y donde nos prometieron algunas sorpresas m?s. Tenemos todo listo y en tiempo de descuento para compartir 2 jornadas entre amigos y charlando de los que nos gusta. Este a?o invitamos y compartimos las jornadas con los constructores del FACIL MS1, que cada dia son mas. Estas son algunas de las charlas y presentaciones t?cnicas que se dictaran durante la jornada: a.. Desde las 9:00 Hs. _ Recepci?n de asistentes b.. 14:00 Hs. _ Apertura del 12? Encuentro de Constructores 2016 c.. 14:30 Hs. _ "Charla motivacional para constructores novatos", por Marcelo Rodriguez d.. 16:00 Hs. _ Inyecci?n electr?nica aplicada a motores de auto en aviones. por Diego Perea e.. 16:40 Hs. _ Presentaci?n, constructores mostrando y describiendo su trabajo f.. 18:30 Hs. _ Charla Hist?rica, "EVOLUCI?N HIST?RICA DE LAS CONSTRUCCIONES EXPERIMENTALES EN LA ARGENTINA", por Francisco Halbriter g.. 20:00 Hs. _ Fin de la Jornada h.. 21:00 Hs. _ Cena de camarader?a (la asistencia a la cena se debe confirmar el mismo d?a con los organizadores) Domingo 27/11/2016 a.. 10:30 Hs. _ Presentaci?n de Proyectos e
KR> Where should the mains be located at on a standard KR2?
My Mains are 3 1/2" aft of the leading edge. The CG drawing I have from another KR that has flown quite a lot shows his mains are 4" aft of the leading edge. My W just before getting the plane licensed in 1997 shows that it had 5# on the tail with the plane empty and leveled for weighing. With all the changes made to the plane over the last 20 years, most of the weight was added aft. When I weighed it last summer the tailwheel weight was up to 26# with the plane empty and the leveled for weighing. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM? ? Where is the main axel located in relation to the wings leading edge? My mains are located 3 ?? aft of the wing leading edge. I would expect to find this information on a W spreadsheet as most KR?s are different however small. Ryan KR2 N9099A -Original Message- At 10:47 PM 11/17/2016, you wrote: >I have a standard KR2. My mains are located 3 ?? aft of the Leading >Edge of my wings. Where should the mains be on a fixed gear KR2. > >My tail wheel weighs 3# with the longerons level, that seems too light. +
KR> Tire Pressures
Of course Larry and I are both flying with 5:00x5 aircraft tires, so our pressures are irrelevant compared to the rest of the KR world. I usually only air up my tires during the annual inspection when I have the wheel pants off. I start at 45 PSI. A year later, the tires are usually around 30 psi. I find that my tires tend to shake a lot during take off and landing if they get a bit low on air. I also found that my plane likes cheap tires much better than expensive tires. I use the cheapo Condor 5:00x5 tires on my KR. It seems to be happy with them. At one point in time I felt like burning some extra $$ on the tires, so installed a set of Good Year Flight Custom III tires as they are known for long wear. I found that on touch down they didn't skid, but instead really grabbed onto the pavement. In a plane as light as the KR with my higher landing speeds at my high altitude airport, I found that the plane was pitching forward on touch down and the the instant torque caused by the grabby tires was causing some minor cracking of the wing skins around the landing gear from the gear torquing so hard on the wing spars. I changed back to the cheap Condor tires and all returned to normal. I really like the Monster Retreads like Larry is running, but haven't tried them on my KR. I had them on another plane and thought they wore exceptionally well, but wasn't sure about whether they would be grippy like the Good years, or would skid like the Condors, so never tried a set on the KR. Like Larry, in 3000 hours of flight time, I've never had a flat. I credit that to my propensity to pound the plane on thus reducing any skidding of the tires. :o) Just to complete making this post completely irrelevant, I run 8 PSI in the 26" Good Years I have mounted on the SuperCub and 90 PSI in the tires on my Motorhome. :o) -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? -- > "I've not had a single flat in 600+ hours except on my new tail wheel (which I love :-) ). The tires hold shape and do not show any uneven wear. I only run 32 psi in my multi-thousand pound Buick." Lucky Larry.
KR> Hand propping volkswagen
I've owned 5 non-electric planes that had to be hand propped, including one that was a 2180 VW. I didn't notice it to be any more or less risky than any of my others that ranged from an A-65 to an O-290. Hand propping a plane comes with some risks, but those are easily mitigated by establishing a process or procedure for starting that you do not ever violate. #1 is, never, ever open the throttle more than just a tiny crack. If it doesn't start, fix the engine. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? Sent:?Monday, November 14, 2016 at 7:07 PM From:?"jibby212--- via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?jibby212 at aol.com Subject:?KR> Hand propping volkswagen I obtained a Kr1 project that flew once but was underpowered with a 1600cc Volkswagen engine, carb seemed a little small too. I am planning on going with an 1835 and would like to keep it light with no starter but I have heard some talk about the volkswagen and short prop being pretty risky. Sure there is always risk but are they more so? My KR1 is also longer than standard at 15' 6" , is this a common mod? ?
KR> wing tank building material - vinyl ester
? Subject:?Re: KR> wing tank building material - vinyl ester If you get nothing else out of this thread, it should be that you shouldn't build fuel tanks out of epoxy, now that we have vinyl ester. Yes, you can slosh the tank and probably get good results, but it's another step, and you have to do it right. But if you use vinyl ester resin (Aircraft Spruce sells it) you're not likely to ever have a problem with it. Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com[http://www.N56ML.com] to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org Absolutely true. #1) If you are building and plan to build glass tanks, build your tanks with vinylester resin. Polyester and Epoxy are both subject to degradation from alcohol and other chemicals that may be added to Mogas. #2) Always know your fuel source and test your fuel. Unless your system is designed for alcohol, and you fly your plane regularly, avoid alcohol contaminated fuels. But there are other things that get mixed into gas. Auto fuel gets pumped down a pipe line that has lots of other stuff also pumped down the line ahead and behind it. The stuff used to buffer between loads in the pipeline is often sold to cut rate stations and sold as cheap gas. It can cause damage to your fuel system as Mark showed in a couple of photos, or may cause detonation damage to your engine. We all want to fly for less, and I am a real advocate for burning Mogas as the lead in Avgas causes a lot of unnecessary engine top end wear, but know your fuel source. If you have the a set of tanks that are built from something other than Vinylester, know what you have and treat it accordingly. A set of epoxy tanks is not a problem as long as you are careful about what goes into the tank. I built the fuel tanks for my KR 21 years ago. At that time, alcohol boosted fuels were new and we were still trying to figure out what worked and what didn't. I was working with both vinylester and epoxy resins at the time and chose the epoxy resin as the most stable known resin at the time. Turns out Vinylester would have been a better choice. I had a couple of pinhole leaks in one tank, so I chose to slosh all 3 tanks with an alcohol resistant slosh compound (still available from Aircraft Spruce). Those tanks got to cure for several months before they ever saw any fuel, which has likely contributed to the longevity of the slosh compound. FWIW, Polyester is every bit as susceptible to alcohol/chemical damage as epoxy. I rebuilt a set of Polyester tip tanks off a Cherokee 235 a few years ago after the owner got a tank or two of Alcohol fuel. Those tanks were so soft they were deforming from the air pressures in flight. Aluminum tanks are also a good solution. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> wing tank building material
People on the KRNet make a fuss about using only vinyl-ester, but unless you are planning to run alcohol contaminated fuel, epoxy tanks really aren't an issue. I built my tanks with Saf-T-Poxy 20 years ago, then sloshed them with and alcohol resistant sealer. I have always run Mogas when I could, and for the last 4 years have been running mogas almost exclusively. I have never had an issue with the tanks or any degredation of the slosh compound in 20 years and well over 1100 hrs of service. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM - From:?"Ronald Wright via KRnet" To:?KRnet Subject:?KR> wing tank building material Is there any way to determine whether the wing tanks in an already skinned wing were built using vinylester instead of epoxy? A KR builder has a set of wings with Diehl skins already built. Older wings apparently off of what was a flying airplane, but NO information about what was used to build the fiberglass tanks? The wings are marked: 100LL ONLY. So, maybe they weren't built using vinylester?? I don't want to chance buying the wings without knowing what I'm getting!! Thanks, Ron
KR> Airworthiness Certificate cancelled or surrendered
I don't think that is the case.? I had this discussion with an Airworthiness inspector at our local FSDO about 3 years ago.? He said there is a process to bring back derelict planes. ? After the registration expires, the N number goes on hold for 5 years.? If one registers the aircraft during that time period, the N number will be restored and the Airworthiness and operation limitations are still in effect.? However, if the registration goes past 5 years expired, the N number goes away.? Since the Airworthiness is tied to the N number, it is also voided.? One can apply for a new N number, then have a new FAA Airworthiness Inspection by either the FAA or a DAR to issue a new Airworthiness Certificate and Operating Limitations to go with the new N number.? With no repairman certificate, a condition inspection by an A would also be required.? Once completed, the aircraft will have to undergo phase 1 test flight period again, but would be legal to fly.? ? The same process is true for a certificated aircraft.? Even if the Airworthiness and Registration have gone away, one can apply for a new N number, have an annual inspection by an A/IA, then have a DAR or Airworthiness Inspector do a Type Certificate Conformity Inspection to issue a new Airworthiness Certificate, and the aircraft is once again legal. ? -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM --- ? Subject:?KR> Airworthiness Certificate cancelled or surrendered I recently saw a KR for sale that was "almost ready to fly". After looking at it I looked up the tail number and the plane has been "deregistered", as well as the Airworthiness Certificate. I've always thought that a deregistered aircraft was "dead in the water" but according to something I found on the web, there is apparently a path back IF the Airworthiness Certificate hasn't been "surrendered". I needed clarification on this, and others may need it also. I'm too lazy to look up the official regulation on this, but I'm sure it's not too hard to find. From a thread on Vans Aircraft: "Has the original airworthiness been surrendered? If so, the aircraft is "dead in the water". Once the airworthiness certificate for an experimental amateur-built aircraft has been surrendered, there is no path back. If the airworthiness is still valid, then no problem. It can be put back into service by going through a new phase I test program. No one but the original builder is eligible for the repairman certificate." Just FYI... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com ?
KR> Airworthiness Certificate cancelled or surrendered
KR> First flight, Finally
We have another KR PILOT! Congrats! > > I hope this goes through, I haven't seen any KRnet emails in three or four > days. > > I finally flew N236MS today and I am still high on adrenaline from the > flight. All of the fears and what if's went away as soon as I powered up. > Even made a perfect wheel landing. Keep building guys, dreams do come true. > > Mike Sylvester > kr2s builder > Birmingham,AL. > > Cell no.205-966-3854 > ___
KR> First Engine Run
Very nice. Good luck with those P-Mags. My memory may not be correct but Jeff hasn't had a lot of luck with his. Mike KSEE ? -- Just for clarification, I have had 2 Pmag failures in 160 hrs of flight time. However, neither failure had to do with what I would consider to be normal wear and tear. The first failure was an edge connector between the internal PC board and the external plug that powers the coils. So I lost one coil (2 cylinders) on one side. That was likely caused by mishandling at some point along the way, potentially self inflicted or potentially during packaging of the Pmag. The second failure was the same Pmag and was caused by Emag not reassembling the Pmag correctly when they fixed the first failure. The 4 screws that hold the head of the Pmag onto the internal mounting plate backed off and the head of the Pmag quite literally fell off in flight. Had the first failure not happened, there never would have been a second failure. In both instances, Emag fixed them post haste at no cost. FWIW, I am not at all down on the Pmags. However, in my case they have not lived up to my expectations for maintenance. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> KR first engine run
Subject:?KR> KR first engine run All, Finally fired off the KR. Had a few configuration and wiring issues, but resolved em. Engine runs quite well. (Rotec TBI / Pmags / O235). Back to work with the rest. Roger Baalman Rbaalman at cox.net Roger, Your plane looks great. What I can see of the fit and finish looks to be really well done. Congratulations. First flight should be coming up soon! -Jeff Scott Los Alamos,NM
KR> Broke Brake
? ? > I have Cleveland wheels and calipers with Suzuki GSXR 750 brake cylinders. > The brake cylinders are a custom heal brake configuration mounted > horizontally. Are the brake cylinders fed fluid by a remote reservoir that's mounted higher than the cylinders, or are the reservoirs built into the cylinders? If there's no reservoir mounted higher and filled with fluid, air bubbles in the cylinders are a real possibility. My experience has been that bleeding the brakes is best done with a simple mechanical oil pump, think oil squirting gun with a plastic tube on the end, or even a pressurized garden sprayer, filling from the brake bleeder and up through the rest of the system. This way, air bubbles are carried up (their natural direction), and if there's a leak somewhere it becomes apparent. If pulling a vacuum from the top of the system, if you have a leak it will suck in air bubbles, and it will not be obvious if it's a small leak. Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com[http://www.N56ML.com] --- Exactly the same as I recommend. I find that a small pump oil squirt can is more than enough to completely fill one side including the reservoir. In an effort to learn something about the Suzuki GSXR 750 brake cylinders, I did a google search and found a large recall of those master cylinders due to an incorrectly placed port between the master cylinder and built in reservoir causing the master cylinder to trap air. I don't suppose you happened to get a screaming good deal in a set of recalled master cylinders??? <http://cycles.dev03.questus.com/~/media/Recalls/2004-2013%20GSX-R%20Master%20Cylinder%20Recall%20Notice.pdf> -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM -Jeff Scott
KR> Broke Brake
Joe, There is precious little information in your post as to what brake components you have or how they are configured, so I'll try to cover the high points of brake problems. Assuming your master cylinders are mounted vertically for use in toe brakes, brake bleeding is typically done by having the bleeder at the bottom of the slave cylinder, then use a pump type oil can to push the air ahead of the fluid up through your brake system until you have fluid into the reservoir. The suction type brake bleeding kits for cars are kind of hit or miss as to whether they will work on an aircraft. Depending on your configuration, sometimes they are necessary, but a properly designed aircraft brake system is bled with a pressure pump from the bottom of the slave cylinder. 1/4" nylaflo brake line has a lot of wall expansion under pressure. If you are using this type of brake line, consider changing it out for either 3/16" or 1/8". I have "fixed" the brakes on several brake issues on Experimentals by replacing the 1/4" nylaflow brake lines with 3/16". There can be numerous other issues, but without some information about your brake system, I'd be kind of shooting in the dark. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? Dear krnet, My left master cylinder won't work. I purchased the bleed kit from Harbor Freight and it works great on the right brake. ?The left it won't. I pulled the brakes out of the airplane to test each part independently and found no fault. I set up the brake system outside the airplane and it worked great. ?I was very excited and pleased until I reinstalled it enthusiastically back into the airplane and it didn't work. ? The brakes are the only thing keeping me from taxi testing my KR2. ? Imagine my frustration! I usually have to do every thing on my plane three times before i like it but this is rediculous.? Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
KR> Copper state fly in
That's awesome guys. I'll be there in the SuperCub rather than the KR. (arrive Thurs, leave Sunday a.m.) See you on the show line! Come use the big wings on the Cub for some shade. We usually have a good group there with a bunch of lawn chairs. -Jeff Scott ? ? Kim Neibauer and myself are planning to fly our Kr's to Copper State this year, weather permitting. Roger Bulla rbulla2 at wic.net -Original Message- From: Info--- via KRnet Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2016 9:41 PM To: KRnet Cc: Info at vandykeaviation.com Subject: KR> Copper state fly in I have an idea of some people flying into to copper state this year. Lee Van Dyke
KR> Hm, canopy again...
Matt, I guess I don't see the problem either unless you are trying to use a Dragon Fly canopy with a stock KR-2 canopy frame. I have a dragonfly canopy in the -2S frame on my plane built to the stock width. I used the forward part of the canopy, but could have (and maybe should have) used a bit more aft section of the canopy to provide a little better head room. If you are trying to use a stock KR-2 canopy frame, then that might be a bit of a problem. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM lots of photos of the plane and canopy at http://jeffsplanes.com ? ? Sent:?Thursday, October 06, 2016 at 10:35 AM From:?"Matt Quimby via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?"Matt Quimby" Subject:?KR> Hm, canopy again... Well, I?m having some trouble with the canopy now. I?m using a standard Dragonfly canopy, and I have a stock width kr2. Bend the sides in, looks great. Headroom, forward visibility, blends well with the back deck? whoops. the curve from front to back lessens, to the point where I can only pick *two* of those three. I?ve enclosed a picture that demonstrates the difference between the Dragonfly at normal width and at the width I?m working with. Any of you guys that used Dragonfly canopies, can you please tell me how you made it work? I?m at a loss. Matt Quimby http://kr2pilot.blogspot.com/ ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search].
KR> new airfoil modifications
? I can't give an authoritative answer, but I would have to agree with what Stephen says.? If you want the AS Airfoil, sell your Diehl Skins. While the AS series air foil is a nice design and undoubtedly a much better refined airfoil, there's nothing wrong with the RAF-48 if you want to go that route. My KR has the Diehl Skins and RAF airfoil since it predates the development of the AS series airfoil.? It's no slouch in performance even with my heavyweight lard butt in the seat. However, if I was building a new KR today and had no parts on hand for the wings, I would definitely build it with the AS airfoil. ? -Jeff Scott Subject:?Re: KR> new airfoil modifications If a person has Diehl wing skin's with the Raf 48 airfoil and mounted AS5046 rib's, Will the skin's fit? ?
KR> new airfoil modifications
KR> 2016 gathering
There is a certain amount of truth in what Lee says. I always enjoy the KR Gatherings, and try to make as many as I can. I was really disappointed that I wasn't able to attend this year, but was even more disappointed that so many others also had to cancel for various reasons. My reasons for attending are two fold. I really want to try to help the other builders along as I have a number of innovative ideas incorporated into my plane you can draw ideas from, and have used it as a test flying platform for nearly 20 years now. But also, I really enjoy getting to see the KR Family again. Like all families, we have our disagreements and occasionally snipe at one another. But there is little doubt I have many life long friends from the KRNet and the Gatherings, many of which I have known for over 20 years now. For those builders and future builders that made it this year, I apologize for not being there and am sorry the number of flying KRs was so low, but there were some really good planes there with some unique ideas built by some really talented builders. Hopefully, you got all the motivation you need for the next year from them. Lees Summit is on my calendar for next year. I'll be the among the first to commit, "I'll be there in my KR." -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? Subject:?KR> 2016 gathering Let us talk about the KR gathering and what it means to us. I have been to 6 KR gatherings all in Mount Vernon Illinois. I was going to fly to the KR gathering this year but an opportunity arose for me to sell an engine, VW, to a new builder that was going to be at the gathering. I chose to drive and save this person some money on shipping the engine. The KR gathering means a lot to me, and to many of the people who attend. I drove 22 hours each way, a total of 3200 miles. I had a lot of time to think during that drive. I work building composite airplanes every day. The motivation I got seeing the planes that were at the gathering and the motivated builders putting them together was worth the trip. People like Kevin from WA, Tucker from CO and Matt from PA. It brings me back to my first gathering when I was redoing my KR. That is where I met Mark Langford, Mark Jones, Larry Flesner, Troy Petteway, Jeff Scott, and so many others. By nature I'm a little bit of a shy guy but when I get around good people my personality expands. Seeing people like Eric Pitts, Rob Schmidt, Terry Chizek, Mark Jones, Larry Flesner, Joe Horton, Mike Turner, Dave Mullins, Pete Klapp, Ray Fuenzalida, Mark Langford, it made the trip worthwhile. Going to the gathering is like an annual revival, when you buy the plans or a project it like you were been baptized. Reading the KR net and going to the gathering is like going to church. You get re-energized. You can say Mark Langford is like our prophet . "I know that statement is blasphemy and I can burn in hell. But it's kind of true." My trip to the gathering was 22 hours and 1580 miles there and 22 hours and 1563 miles back, same route. Same amount of gas stops, why the difference in mileage? Lack of nitrogen in the tires. See you next year in Lees Summit. Lee Van Dyke
KR> gathering
Sorry for sending the repeated blank emails. My email client defaults to HTML mode, and I don't always catch it to switch back to text mode operator error. ? After making it 3 years ago to Mt Vernon, 2 years ago to Chino, and last year to McMinnville, I'm going to miss the gathering this year.? Had hand surgery last week, so the pilot is grounded with a broken wing.? :o(? Looking forward to next year, probably in KC.? But you all have fun this weekend, tip a root beer for me, and post photos of the new flying machines I haven't had the privilege to see yet. ? -Jeff Scott
KR> gathering
KR> Tire pressure and Slime/Nitrogen
Of course compressed air is 78% Nitrogen. You use nitrogen on struts because it's dry so you don't add moisture to the strut. Nitrogen in tires is mostly a waste of money for tires since some moisture and 20% other gasses included aren't going to make much of a difference in the leakage rate. -Jeff Scott ? Nitrogen is supposed to be better to not slow leak because the molecules are bigger than regular air. I always took that with a grain of salt thinking how much of a difference can it make. A few months ago I helped a neighbor rebuild the nose strut on his 172. He wanted to fill it with nitrogen instead of regular air, but our friends nitrogen bottle was empty. I have a CO2 bottle with a regulator for portable use of air tools and figured that would be as dry as the nitrogen and just as good. We filled the strut and the next day it was empty. Did it again and same results. Googled and found that CO2 has molecules smaller than regular air so we filled it with air and it has been good since. So, how much slower would nitrogen leak than air, no idea, but worth a try. Airline tires are filled with nitrogen for less leakage, more convenient on the line to roll out a nitrogen bottle than a compressor that can go to a few hundred PSI, and less expansion at high temperatures. Original Message Subject: KR> Tire pressure and Slime From: Mark Langford via KRnet I put all new tubes and tires on 1JF when I refurbed it, and it's had a slow leak ever since on one side. About a month ago I put some Slime in it, and it's still holding 50 psi. Something to consider. _
KR> Firewall
I would suggest Brown Metals <http://www.brownmetals.com>. I haven't talked to them or had a need to buy any, but their web site advertises various thicknesses and alloys of Stainless foils. 304 Stainless starts at .005" and 24" width. 301 can be ordered up to 36" wide at .005" and can be as thin as .002". 321 Stainless starts at .002 x 24" width. If someone wanted to buy a short roll they could probably supply enough for quite a number of KRs over the coming years. -Jeff Scott ? ? Sent:?Wednesday, September 07, 2016 at 5:12 PM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mark Langford" Subject:?Re: KR> Firewall Paul Visk wrote: >> Fiberfrax Firewall Material from Wicks and a piece of stainless steel sheet .016" thick. I tried to find some .005" SS shim stock, but couldn't find it wide enough.<< I couldn't find any either, and bought the .016" also. When I took it out of the box, it amazed me how heavy it was. It didn't pass my "light enough to fly" test, so I kept looking. I eventually found some .004" or .005", sold by Rand Robinson! I don't see it on nVAero's website, however. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options
KR> 14mm shielded spark plugs
I don't know if any of you VW guys are using a magneto with shielded plugs anymore, but I seem to have run across an inventory of 14MM shielded spark plugs and would appreciate any help some of you might be able to provide in identifying these plugs and and identifying whether they are useful for any of the aero VW applications. ? The plugs I found are all new old stock Champion XEH-10, XEJ-11, XEF-14Y, and XMJ-17.? The XMJ-17 plugs also have a second number MS35909-2.?The XMJ-17 was a shielded plug for a military Willys Jeep, and some of the others are identified as military use for air cooled Wisconson V-4 engines that were used in the military.? What I don't know is if these had any application for the Aero VW engines, or possibly in the Franklin engines.? If they do, I'll be happy to pass them on for what they cost me to buy, which isn't much. ? -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> 14mm shielded spark plugs
KR> O'brien brakes?
? My hangar mate is also using the O'brien brakes on his Sonex with the same tiny tires used on most KRs.? His Sonex is set up using the RV-7 rudder and brake pedals with Matco master cylinders, so has individual left/right braking.? He's been pretty happy with the brakes after 5+ years of regular fliying with them.? I've looked them over pretty closely and didn't see any issues other than I'm not a fan of the small axles, but on a light weight plane like the Sonex and KR that's usually not a problem. ? -Jeff Scott ? Sent:?Sunday, August 28, 2016 at 9:44 PM From:?"Kenneth Jones via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Kenneth Jones" Subject:?Re: KR> O'brien brakes? They seem to work fine on the Sonex (about 650 lbs.) that I bought a few years ago. Of course, it lands a bit slower than the KR2. However, I would prefer Matco which is what was installed on the Pig. But I?m not going to the effort and expense of changing them out. Kenneth Jones kenbjones at kenbjones.net 513-604-3273 KHAO KR2 N5834 The Porkopolis Flying Pig - Sold after 500+ hrs Sonex N905SX - Flying 1/2 Sold Glasair II FT N93SX - Flying > On Aug 27, 2016, at 1:24 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet list.krnet.org> wrote: > > Has anybody successfully used O'brien brakes (photo enclosed) on a KR, or > anything else? > > Thanks, > > -- > Mark Langford ?
KR> O'brien brakes?
KR> KRnet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 80212
x. zloty cm cm cm x BP x. 3; Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: krnet-request at list.krnet.org List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: 8/14/16 9:01 AM (GMT-08:00) To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 212 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet at list.krnet.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request at list.krnet.org You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner at list.krnet.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Smooth Prime problems (Doran Jaffas) 2. Paints (abnd dopes) comparison (Jeff Scott) 3. Facet pumps in series (Craig Williams) 4. Re: Facet pumps in series (Mark Langford) 5. Re: Facet pumps in series (Daniel Heath) 6. Re: Facet pumps in series (Daniel Heath) 7. AirVenture 2016 KR Forum (PPaulVsk at aol.com) 8. Re: Facet pumps in series (Phillip Hill) -- Message: 1 List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 12:30:49 -0700 From: Doran Jaffas To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Smooth Prime problems Message-ID:
KR> Kr2s Engine?
As Mark says, it mostly boils down to personal preference. A more realistic view of the fuel burn was when Joe Horton and I flew side by side from Los Alamos,NM to Chino, CA and back, he in his Corvair powered KR and me in my O-200 powered KR. We flew the whole trip within sight of each other. There are differences between our planes to be sure, but we are very closely matched in speed and performance. Joe burned 1/2 gal/hr less than I did with my O-200 for the trip. On the other hand, in 1150 hrs, my KR has never fallen from the sky. Not many Corvair powered KRs can make that claim. For sure, I have abused and broken things in my engine. But the O-200 is stout where it counts. It has never missed a beat, and things like a broken rocker shaft boss were found while performing routine maintenance in the hangar. If you're going to build a Corvair to try to match an O-200 for reliability, it's going to cost as much to build as the O-200. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? Sent:?Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 6:55 PM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mark Langford" Subject:?Re: KR> Kr2s Engine? "Stan" wrote: > Based on the above wouldn't the Corvair seem to be the better > choice? What is the advantage of the o200 vs the Corvair or the > Corvair over the o200? What is the time between overhaul on a > Corvair? The difference between the two boils down to the O-200 is a real airplane engine, designed for the job, with compromises to make it last. This includes lower compression for reduced stressed, and a more primitive carb for simplicity. The biggest thing with the O-200 is that it's purpose made for the job, with giant bearing near the prop to handle prop loads. The Corvair was not designed to run wide open all the time, but if you put a $2000 crankshaft in it and add a $1000 front bearing, the crank becomes pretty reliable and there are few weak links left, one of which is the semi-rare cam gear failure (and we know what to watch for on that now). Rebuilds on a Corvair are pretty cheap, compared to the O-200, and heads and cylinders survive rather well. Corvair parts are rather plentiful, and simple stuff like gears are still made and cheap, rather than rare and expensive. Having said that, if reliability is your number one goal, the O-200 is the way to go. If efficiency and performance is your goal, the Corvair may be the way to go. Cost is probably about the same either way, as far as initial installation, depending on luck and scrounging ability. It's too early to tell what the TBO is on the Corvair...there just aren't enough hours on them yet. I'd bet serious money that it's longer on the Continental than the Corvair though! I don't think anybody would disagree with that. I have a lot invested in Corvairs, and will stick with them. They are far better than VWs, both in reliability and safety. And I have two of them ready to run already. No, I'm not trying to sell either of them. If I were starting over and an O-200 presented itself for a reasonable price, I'd seriously considering buying it. With a new 4340 crank in my Corvair though, I'm good with that option too, especially since they are both paid for. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options
KR> Facet pumps in series
Paul, That particular configuration has a bit of a safety issue. You always want at least one of your pumps before the gascolator. Check out any low wing carburated Piper. The fuel flow goes from Fuel Tank -> Electric Fuel Pump -> Gascolator -> Mechanical Fuel Pump -> Carb. The reason why you want one fuel pump before the gascolator is that even the smallest leak in the gascolator will draw air under suction from the pumps and starve the engine for fuel. If you have a pump before the gascolator, you can turn on that pump to restore fuel flow. You may only have a small seep or drip at the gascolator under pressure, but that's enough of an air leak under suction to starve the engine. This was a really common problem with the GlassAir series of aircraft. They were designed with the gascolator under suction for the mechanical pump and had chronic problems with fuel starvation thanks to an O-ring seal that didn't seat well in their gascolator. Ideally, the first pump should not have to suck fuel up hill, which eliminates the same problem should there be an air seep at a fuel line junction between the tank and the pump. But the gascolator can be a real problem because it is disassembled and reassembled regularly, so it's easy to have an air seep on occasion. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? Here is a picture of my first layout of my duel facet fuel pump design. ?I got it from flycorvair.com. ?I ended up with something diferant with the same pumps. https://flic.kr/p/AoAMfe Paul Visk?Belleville IL ?618 406 4705 Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4 ?
KR> Cross country planning and a KR
I have to second what DJ and Doran said.? I don't remember the last time I planned on paper.? If I am planning a significant cross country flight (meaning half the continenent or more), I'll keep an eye on the weather forecast via ADDS Weather, then do my preflight planning on Skyvector.? Anymore, I just print out the NavLog from Skyvector, and that's my flight plan.? Printing out the SkyVector NavLog is as close as I get to using paper.? I pick up a nationwide weather snapshot and current and forecast winds aloft overlaid on the Sectionals or clean screen (vector mode) on the iFly on my Android, and get ADS-B updates on both the Android iFly and my iFly GPS en route.? ? 35 years ago I flew a non-electric open cockpit Biplane coast to coast (SC to WA).? It was a lot more fun, but modern navigation has made flying so much easier.? No more circling water towers to figure out what town I'm near.? No more jumping out of the cockpit and looking at the phone book at the pay phone to see where I actually landed.? Things are much different now days. ? ?-Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? On 8/15/2016 8:22 PM, Paul Visk via KRnet wrote: > He said the most pilots > still plan on paper and use paper sectionals in flight. ?
KR> Cross country planning and a KR
KR> Paints (abnd dopes) comparison
I supervised the recover of both a Taylorcraft and a TriPacer with Stewarts system in the last few years.?? I have to say, the TriPacer came out exceptionally nice as the owner also put a lot of $$ and work into it besides just the cover.? But the Stewart system is simple and relatively easy to do if you follow their instructions.? I didn't care for the cost of the Stewart systems, but otherwise I thought it was a good covering system.? ? I have also covered using the Nitrate/Butyrate, and Polyfiber systems.? All of them work well, although the Stewarts system is significantly less toxic to work with. ? I have also done quite a bit of paint work as well, although I don't consider myself to be anywhere near a "professional" quality painter.? However, I have used a lot of different types of paints.? Stewarts would not be at the top of my list of paints that I would use on wood and/or glass.? However, I do understand using it because of the lower toxicity.? I'll write my evaluation of the various types of paints below based on the last 20 years of painting planes and cars, some of which came out really good, and some of which didn't. All of these paints must be used with either a fresh air source into a hood, or a chemical and particulate respirator along with an adequate quantity of fresh air. ? Acrylic Enamel - The first professional paint I ever used.? I found it to be easy to spray as long as you were close to the recommended temperatures, but found that once cured, it chips quite easily and tends to be pretty brittle, so touch ups and repaints are in your future if you use it. Also pretty toxic stuff. ? PolyUrethane - Can be difficult to paint. Loves to "Orange Peel" if anything is less than perfect for conditions. But leaves a gorgeous finish in the event you get everything right. Sticks to darned near anything. Is also pretty flexible as I have shot this on top of dope and fabric and haven't seen any kind of significant cracking after 5 years of service. Probably one of the most toxic paints you can use. Also, many PolyUrethane paints are quite expensive >$300/gal. (I found the overspray from PolyUrethane stuck to my next door neighbors $150K Cirrus very nicely, which was a lot of work for us to clean back to "new" condition). Base Coat (urethane) / Clear Coat (PolyUrethane)- The Urethane Base coat is so easy it's like spraying primer. You get spoiled by shooting the base coat. Then you spray the clear coat. Well, it's clear, so takes really good lighting to be able to see how you're spraying. Like the PolyUrethane above, it loves to "Orange Peel" and is really easy to get runs and sags since it's clear and you can't see it. Also, since it is a PolyUrethane, it's pretty darned toxic. However, you can lightly sand and polish out the runs, sags and orange peel to make it look good. Acrylic Urethane - My current favorite. Sprays easy like Acrylic Enamel. Even uses the same catalyst. But is much more flexible when cured, and seems to be as tough and durable as PolyUrethane. This paint seems to have the good qualities of spraying easy like Acrylic Enamel with the shine, durability, and flexibility of PolyUrethane. But, it's still high on the toxicity scale. This is what I recommend for amateur painters like myself as I get good results with a shiny durable finish without the need for a paint booth and superior lighting. Stewarts Acrylic Urethane - You want to follow the directions to the letter including prep work. No short cuts. If you stay within their directions, it paints reasonably well and will give you a good finish. It's used over fabric, so is clearly flexible and has reasonable durability. Stewarts is the least toxic of all of these paints and there is a lot to be said for using water as your reducer and for clean up rather than chemicals that like to attack your liver when inhaled or exposed to your skin. Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM I know just enough about painting to make a really big mess! ? ? ? ? Sent:?Saturday, August 13, 2016 at 1:30 PM From:?"Doran Jaffas via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Doran Jaffas" Subject:?Re: KR> Smooth Prime problems I have the Stewart Systems DVD instruction set. I plan on using it on my Tri Pacer in a cpl of years. School of Missionary Aviation Training at Y70 uses it exclusively. I looked at several systems and I like Stewarts the best. Great Luck to You!! Doran Jaffas Rob wrote: ... My 1st finish paint job was sprayed on using a "Boat" acrylic enamel. That didn't last. My second paint job was Stewart Systems and it seems to be holding up much better (rolled on). A reminder to everyone. Stewart Systems will be doing a forum Saturday morning at the Gathering ?
KR> RST Engineering
? Sorry, this post should have had the subject label changed to RST Engineering While I know you want to receive this stuff right away, keep in mind you are dealing with a small business that is a one man show, and that you ordered just as they were ramping up for Oshkosh, then had to travel from California to Oshkosh (likely in a camper), then was at Oshkosh for at least a week, then is traveling back home again and trying to pick up the pieces. Maybe... Just maybe, he is throwing in a few days of vacation on the way home from Oshkosh to try to get his head back on straight after the rush of orders taken at Oshkosh. It's not a huge surprise to me that he hasn't replied to an email, nor is it a surprise that nothing was shipped in the last 3 weeks. Jim Weir also writes a monthly column for "Kitplanes" and probably needs to get another column out the door to meet the oshkosh show report deadline, so I don't think he has flown the coop. But I do think he is a really busy man and you have caught him at the peak of his busiest time of year. I would guess he should be back home again this week and doing business again. This is a one man show business that has been around for a long time and is well known in the pilot community. A little patience will probably go a long ways. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM > HI I am having trouble with buying a kit from rst engineering > paid 3 weeks ago > sent 2 emails about when it is to arrive > never answered my emails > paid with paypal so did a paypal item purchased not received > still did not get any email from them > they are in californa as I am > paypal said they sent an email asking about this but i have not received > the item nor have i every received any email > makes me kinda wonder why not at least an email > tom laudato ?
KR> KRnet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 208
While I know you want to receive this stuff right away, keep in mind you are dealing with a small business that is a one man show, and that you ordered just as they were ramping up for Oshkosh, then had to travel from California to Oshkosh (likely in a camper), then was at Oshkosh for at least a week, then is traveling back home again and trying to pick up the pieces. Maybe... Just maybe, he is throwing in a few days of vacation on the way home from Oshkosh to try to get his head back on straight after the rush of orders taken at Oshkosh. It's not a huge surprise to me that he hasn't replied to an email, nor is it a surprise that nothing was shipped in the last 3 weeks. Jim Weir also writes a monthly column for "Kitplanes" and probably needs to get another column out the door to meet the oshkosh show report deadline, so I don't think he has flown the coop. But I do think he is a really busy man and you have caught him at the peak of his busiest time of year. I would guess he should be back home again this week and doing business again. This is a one man show business that has been around for a long time and is well known in the pilot community. A little patience will probably go a long ways. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM > HI I am having trouble with buying a kit from rst engineering > paid 3 weeks ago > sent 2 emails about when it is to arrive > never answered my emails > paid with paypal so did a paypal item purchased not received > still did not get any email from them > they are in californa as I am > paypal said they sent an email asking about this but i have not received > the item nor have i every received any email > makes me kinda wonder why not at least an email > tom laudato ?
KR> ADS-B BendixKing by Honeywell
This is a perfect example of some of the somewhat deceptive advertising I have been seeing. You will note that you get a to pay $3500 for a Mode-S transponder that is touted as ADS-B Out "SOLVED". But what is less than obvious is that the Transponder does NOT have a WAAS GPS Position source. If you happen to have a WAAS enabled Garmin GTN/GNS system to front end the transponder as a position source, you're in luck. If you don't, well, for another $15,000, they can fix you right up. This is virtually identical to the unit I looked at from Sandia Aerospace for the same price, except that the Sandia unit also had ADS-B in, a traffic display on the front panel, and WiFi to talk to your GPS. But you still need to buy a high end WAAS enabled Garmin device to front end it. (read $) When reading the ads for ADS-B Out, you have to look to see what isn't in the ad. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? --- Subject:?KR> ADS-B BendixKing by Honeywell Here is some information that might help your research. If you need a transponder this King might be a good way to go. http://www.bendixking.com/Search-Results?searchtext=Ads-b=anyword Larry H
KR> FlightBox | Open Flight Solutions
It's not a matter of seeing the big guys vs the small guys. Most pilots needing a transponder upgrade are going to go with mode-S 1090es. That is what all the Dynon units in Experimentals use. It's more a matter of being able to get a more complete and quickly updated picture when you are out of range of an ADS-B tower, typically when at low altitude near smaller airports vs only less complete traffic picture if out of range of an ADS-B tower, or even if you are within range of an ADS-B tower, getting slower traffic updates as you will be waiting for the ADS-B tower to rebroadcast vs receiving the traffic updates directly plane to plane. However, it will work either way. It's only a matter degree as to how well it works. -Jeff Scott ---? My opinion on the ADSB ?is that having the duel band receiver is nice but not really necessary. ?It is ture, you will not see the bigger airplanes and they will not see you if you are NOT in range of a ground station. If you are receiving a ground ?station everyone will see everyone. ?The only time you will be interacting with the big airplanes will be by bigger airports and they will have coverage from ground base coverage.If you fly alot in remote areas then duel band would be handy.This is what I've learned. ?My opinion might change when I start flying my plane. Paul Visk?Belleville IL ?618 406 4705 Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4
KR> FlightBox | Open Flight Solutions
?There are a lot of ADS-B IN/Out solutions out there, many for under $2K. Some of they key points you want are: 1) Dual channel receiver, although a single channel receiver will work acceptably well if you have good reception from a local ADS-B station. Some of you may recall that I kind of beat up on the Dynon guy at the last Gathering about their products only using single channel. 2) An easy way to get the pressure altitude and squawk code to your ADS-B out unit (for UAT units). Some have to be hard wired in. Others pick up the transponder squawk and altitude by querying the transponder. Navworx uses a small ring that goes around the transponder antenna and the Skyguard uses a small antenna that talks to the transponder. And many others, like Dynon and Garmin, provide the squawk and pressure altitude to the transponder and let the transponder transmit it via mode S with extended squitter. 3) Compatibility with your current as well as your future GPS/traffic displays. There is nothing wrong with buying a nice Garmin or Dynon display. Just be aware that once you buy their gear, you are pretty well locked into using their gear as they generally don't play well with others. I like to see generic compatibility so I can change vendors without incurring huge expenses. I find a lot of incorrect and/or misleading advertising with ADS-B gear. I recently emailed a vendor about a Mode-S Extended Squitter transponder that provides a traffic display on it's front panel, but also provides a WiFi connection to your GPS to provide traffic and weather. Now I thought that would be an awesome solution if I was in need of a transponder. When I emailed the company, it took several iterations back and forth before they finally admitted that their ADS-B unit didn't have a high resolution GPS receiver, so was essentially non-funtional unless you had a high end Garmin Radio with a high resolution GPS to front end it. That rendered their $3500 ADS-B solution useless without a $15,000 front end, but it took me two days of emailing back and forth before they would fess up to their configuration. There is some good equipment out there as well as some questionable equipment, and some others that are willing to sell you something and make it your problem to make it work. Be extra careful when shopping and try to talk to someone that knows this stuff and is familiar with that vendor before you buy. FWIW, I bought a Skyguard TWX unit that meets the FAA standard just over a year ago. It had some teething pains, but overall has performed well. It is not legal for Certificated aircraft, but is good to go in Experimentals for $1525 + the cost of a couple of antennas. The version with the AHRS runs a bit more at $1925. I also hear good reports from those using the Navworx units at a similar price. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? I have the Open Flight Solutions receiver and it is an awesome piece of equipment. It does receive dual channels and displays all the high altitude heavy's. They are also working on an AHRS upgrade as well as ABS-B out upgrade to their box. I love mine as I am seeing traffic I would have never seen if I did not have it. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Clearwater, FL flykr2s at gmail.com www.flykr2s.com[http://www.flykr2s.com]
KR> ADS B
KR> iFLY hardware vs iFly Apps - Advantages and disadvantages
, the subscription cost is the same. Or, if you run one of each like I do, the second subscription is $30/year. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ?--- Sent:?Sunday, July 31, 2016 at 11:47 AM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" - IFly GPS's are currently shipped without an anti-glare film over the insanely glossy touch-screen, and they currently don't have anybody making them to fit the 720 (and presumably the 740). Their vendor bailed. So I have ordered three IPAD-2 anti-glare sheets for $5 off ebay, one of which I'll stick on my iPAD, and the other I'll cut down for the 720. The glossy screen is ridiculous, IMHO. Also, if you decide to mount an iFLY 720 vertically on your panel, mount it in front of or to the left of the pilot, not to the right (like mine). The screen is polarized such that the brightness level is maybe half as bright when viewed from the left as it is from directly or the right, and "portrait" mode only works one way, not the other! Anybody considering buying the iFLY 720 or 740 should also consider running the iFLY app on a cheap used iPAD, because it starts instantly, is very responsive, and is very reliable, not to mention CHEAP! The yearly subscription is the same either way ?
KR> iFly 740/EFB's etc.
? Please define what an EFB is... --- EFB = Electronic Flight Bag - Most modern GPS units include all the stuff we used to carry in our flight bags; Sectionals, WAC Charts, IFR Charts, E6B, etc. Thus the EFB moniker.
KR> IFly 740
I bought an iFly 740 last year after my 720 flaked out. It is a much better unit than the 720. Yes, it is sunlight readable. Right now iFly is also advertising a free Stratux ADS-B receiver with the 740. If you decline to buy the Stratux unit with the iFly 740, the price drops to $799. -Jeff Scott ? ? Sent:?Wednesday, July 27, 2016 at 9:26 AM From:?"Larry via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?Larry Subject:?KR> IFly 740 I do not have one of these but one of my friends just purchased one today at Oshkosh $899.00 includes a new series 740 which claims easy seeing in bright sunlight and a stratus kit which displays all surrounding aircraft that are in the system I presume. I will be looking at these myself in a few minutes just to make sure this is all correct. It is a show special so if you are interested you may want to call if you are not here at Oshkosh and see if they will honor their show special to you. Just a side note, anyone who has been around aviation and avionics for the past 10 or 15 years should be smart enough to recognize how fast technology and pricing is changing. If you are building an airplane, it is not ready to fly and you have no idea when it may be ready to fly, you are not smart to purchase avionics now. Wait until you are near ready to fly then purchase your avionics. Chances will be very great that you will be able to purchase better/new technology equipment for possibly even less money than if you bought 3 or 4 years too soon. Things are changing fast in this field now, so do not jump too soon. Why hop in your new airplane with out of date avionics? I'm sure you will be handing yourself that sign if you do!!! Larry H Sent from my iPhone _
KR> Oils: Synthetic vs Automotive vs Ashless Dispersant oils
a runway. The engine suffered significant damage with severe erosion of the ring grooves. There was no need to clean the heads or valves as any lead residues had been blasted away by the detonation. The rod bearings also suffered some scuffing damage as the detonation beat the rods into the crank enough to penetrate the oil film in the bearings. My conclusions: I know many of you are running synthetic and automotive oils in your Automotive based engines. Nothing wrong with that, especially if you are running mostly Mogas and your engine doesn't burn much oil or push the margins for detonation. Just know that if you use synthetic oil and burn leaded Avgas, you may be significantly shortening the life of your pistons, rings, and cylinders. If you are using an automotive detergent oil, you may be leaving some metal based ash compounds in the combustion chambers that could cause detonation if you are pressing the detonation margins. Depending on how much leaded fuel you burn,you may also be transporting some lead salts through the engine with the oil that will continuously polish the bearings and cylinders, which will contribute to excessive wear, although I suspect with regular oil changes, any additional wear would likely be minimal. Once the lead is gone from aviation fuels, the range of oils available for use in Aviation engines should really open up and the synthetics should be viable for use again. Based on experience with automobiles as well as my own two aircraft that rarely see leaded fuels anymore, I expect aviation engines to last significantly longer once we get the lead out. The final certification of unleaded aviation fuel is supposed to occur in 2018 with 100LL going away some time after as production of the replacement fuel(s) ramps up. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ?
KR> Oils: Synthetic vs Automotive vs Ashless Dispersant oils
KR> Engine offset
? ? ? Stef wrote: > What is the experience from the people who are flying with 110 hp Or more? > Should I do 3 degrees offset or is there no reason to do this? I fretted over this, but set it up for straight ahead, just in case I changed to an O-200 later. I small trim tab on the rudder compensated for it, and I was happy with that. You'll need the trim tab anyway...but it might have more of an angle in it, which still isn't much. I wouldn't worry about it... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com ? ?-- I mulled over the same question for my O-200 and came up with exactly the same answer. The engine is mounted straight and I have a very small amount of trim set in the tab on the rudder. Just the opposite direction from Mark's Corvair. -Jeff Scott
KR> Cowling Air Scoop
? ? The RV style air intake is a good idea and works well on the RVs. For my O-200, it's backwards as the cylinder stagger on the Continentals is backwards from the Lycomings. When I got to the point of doing an air box and inlet, I was tired of building and just wanted to get it done, so I slapped a snorkel on over top of a stock Air box for an O-200 and have flown with it like that for the last 19 years. But I do like the idea of eliminating that snorkle down under the front and making a smooth front cowl, which is certainly aerodynamically cleaner. Good idea. I'll have to think that one over and maybe do something about it... some day. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM Dear All, Let's see if I can take care of some business.I have noticed that many of us have an air scoop on the bottom of our cowlings. ?Has anyone tried the prefab scoop that Vans sells for the RV6 with the 320 or 360 engine? ?It costs about $80, which it is hard to build for less than that. ? I have already built my version of Vans "FAB" air box intake with filter and I feel that thier air scoop would work. ?What have you done that worked for you? ?I built a mold that should fit over my air filter box but for $80 I could save myself a lot of sanding. Check it out at Vans website to see if it might work for you. Like Mark said, I have scarffed a joint or two! Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?
KR> Microsoft#$%*
I hate to add to this thread since it has little to do with building or flying, but against my better judgement, I will. MS installs the Win 10 upgrade as a patch to Win 7 or Win 8. If you click on the icon, you are off to the races with a Win 10 install/upgrade. So how do you get rid of the Win 10 icon and upgrade package? I downloaded an app called GWX control panel (short for Get Windows 10 control panel). You can use that app to remove the Win 10 upgrade package from your computer and remove all the Win 10 upgrade files that are now residing on your disk, so there is no chance of you or someone else clicking on it and accidentally upgrading your computer out of existance. You can also set it to not allow the Win 10 installer back onto your system, as well as using it to control the overall windows patch system. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? >. Any idea how to avoid it happening again when Windows installs >updates? Custom install? >Chris K Ask someone in the know but I think there is a setting that requires you to approve any updates before they load. I'm thinking I just wasn't paying close enough attention and let Windows10 slip in. I know they download a hidden file that is in most computers now that makes them ready to upgrade with just the wrong click or two. It will pop up on occasion asking if you want to upgrade now or later. If you select later it may download on it's own after a period of time. I think that's what happened to me. They don't give you the choice of "never". Check out sites like: http://www.howtogeek.com/228551/how-to-stop-windows-7-or-8-from-downloading-windows-10-automatically/ or just google "how to keep Windows10 from downloading and use your best judgement on how to proceed. There is quite a bit of info on the subject out there. As always, your results may vary.. Larry Flesner _
KR> KR update
Man, I'm thinking 220 wet, a good rubber sanding block, and a bucket of water are going to be your best friends for a while. :o)? Yep.? You're gonna hate sanding after working that stuff out. We'll let you sing a solo after this. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? Sent:?Monday, June 20, 2016 at 12:09 PM From:?"Mike Sylvester via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mike Sylvester" Subject:?KR> KR update Ok Guys, I have taken the week off to sand the primer and paint the plane. Let me start by saying that something I thought was a good thing in the past has come back to bite me. In the building process as I finished a part of the plane I would prime it by rolling on 2 part epoxy high fill primer, yes I said, roll it on with little foam rollers. This leaves a slight orange peel texture and this stuff is killer to sand down to smooth. What I thought I could do in two days is going to take all week. I hope we sing the sanding song at the gathering because I am definitely earning the right to sing it, Hell, I might even lead the thing. Mike Sylvester kr2s builder Birmingham,AL.
KR> 19 year old KRnet "blast from the past"
Wow!? A bunch of names in that thread that we haven't heard from in ages, and many I had forgotten.? ? 19 years ago.? Reminds me that 19 years ago last week was the first flight of my KR.? 19 years and 1120 hours later, I'm still having fun... and still don't quite have the plane finished. :o)? Tomorrow the KR goes on the scales to see how bad I've fouled up the W with the changes this year... and to help me make a plan to get it right... again. ? -Jeff Scott ? Sent:?Friday, June 17, 2016 at 8:00 PM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mark Langford" Subject:?KR> 19 year old KRnet "blast from the past" I was doing a search for some plenum differential pressure measurements last night when I ran across this snippet of KRnet archive that rekindled some old memories. See http://www.sport-aircraft.org/digests/1997/197.txt if you have 10 minutes to kill, and still remember those earlier days on KRnet... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com[http://www.n56ml.com] ?
KR> A visit with Jeff
I stopped by Jeff Scott's place yesterday evening on the way though with my travels.?I tell you what. This is some beautiful country up here at 7,000 ft. in northern New Mexico.He took me up for a great airplane ride in his Super Cub. Came back and saw his hanger neighbor's Glassair under construction. And of course we talked about KR stuff on his front porch drinking refreshing root beer. : )Again, thank you Jeff for a great evening.? Paul Visk?Belleville IL ?618 406 4705 - The weather cooperated, so Paul got the good tour with some mountain flying in the SuperCub. It's danged cold at 11,500' with the doors open! I enjoyed having the company and getting to show the area off a bit. We got back on the ground around 8:15 and found the town had rolled up the sidewalks, so there wasn't much of anything open to get a bite of dinner. I like getting to show off the area. If any of you are traveling through New Mexico, I always have hangar space and a spare bed at the house. The offer is only good through summer of 2017 before I retire and leave this place behind. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> Flywheel alternators
"Flywheel Alternators" are more aptly described as Dynamo Charging systems.? They have fixed magnets that fly past a fixed Stator (coil or coils) to produce AC current and either a single or 3 phase A/C Output that is then rectified into DC.? A single phase unit either works or not as there are no moving parts to wear out.? If a wire breaks in the stator or beetween the stator and the regulator, it no longer works.? A 3 phase unit can lose a phase, which will reduce its max current output.? I expect the Great Planes units are likely single phase.? The regulator is where all the magic happens and where problems are most likely to occur.? The regulator both rectifies the AC output into DC, and regulates the DC to something less than 14.3 Volts.?Low voltage output will almost always be the regulator that's at fault. No charging can be either the regulator, wiring, or the dynamo stator wires that have failed. ? The failures I have seen in them were failed regulators, and burned wiring between the dynamo and the regulator, and broken wires in the dynamo.? It is possible that your regulator output may be affected by heat, but to what degree, I couldn't predict.? Since these systems don't typically charge at idle, you need to use a good voltmeter (preferably digital) and take a reading anywhere on the 12V DC buss with the engine turning somewhere around 1500 - 2000 RPM.? I don't have any specific knowledge about the Great Planes units, so don't know what RPM they cut in, but the ones on the Jabiru engines I've been working on seem to start charging around 1800 rpm.? Once it's charging with minimal load, I would expect to see something on the order of a minimum of 13V to maintain the battery.? If it is less than that, they you are likely looking at a regulator issue.? The dynamo itself will either work, or it won't. ? -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? Sent:?Monday, June 13, 2016 at 2:02 PM From:?"Mike Stirewalt via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?laser147 at juno.com Subject:?KR> Flywheel alternators Anybody know if the flywheel alternators that are in the Great Plains engines wear out with time? It seems my voltmeter needle is riding around 11 volts instead of 12 with the engine at full RPM. It might be my imagination. If they DO wear out with time, what needs to be replaced? What wears? I just aborted a trip to La Paz because the voltmeter needle seemed to be riding a little lower than it usually does. I didn't want to be coming back across the border without a working transponder so I landed in San Felipe and just came back home. Better safe than sorry. This alternator situation worries me but it might be just fine and my imagination the problem, not the alternator. It's got a lot of hours on it - the flywheel alternator I mean - and am wondering if I've got a problem developing. Thanks, Mike KSEE Affordable Wireless Plans Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. Starting at only $9.95 per month! www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216[http://www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216] ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options
KR> Ifly 720
? ? Sent:?Monday, June 13, 2016 at 11:23 AM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?ml at n56ml.com Subject:?Re: KR> Ifly 720 Brian Kraut wrote: > Ifly 720. I powered it up over the weekend and noticed that it > took probably a minute or so to boot up and operation seems to not be > very fast on it. I kind of expected that on their dedicated hardware > that it would zip right along or at least run as good as it does on my > phone that is also running 100 other processes at the same time. I also > noticed that the touch screen requires a harder touch than my phone or > tablet Right on all counts! Mine probably takes well over two minutes to boot, and the touch screen isn't as sensitive as in iPhone, which may be by design. And the absence of an on/off switch is unforgiveable, as is the absence of at least a tiny battery to get you through cycling other power on or off for a few seconds. The other biggie is the super glossy screen. It just doesn't work well in a plane with a canopy. I had to buy another touch screen for mine for $120 after relatively little usage, but the previous one had a non-glare sheet over it. I may have even bought the non-glare thing...I forget, but I'm looking for another one now. Other than these nits, it's a great unit, but the conclusion I've drawn is to run it on an iPad, which can be bought used for under $100, and you get the best of both worlds. iPad hardware is pretty dang reliable and trouble free. I'm using my daughter discarded after many years of hard use, and everything on works like the day it was new. And what a battery... Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com[http://www.N56ML.com] --- I had the exact same issues with my iFly 720. Painfully slow boot up. Insensitive screen. Mine also needed the screen recalibrated regularly. I liked their software, but the 720 unit seemed to have a few problems. Mine finally lost it's mind about a year ago and needed the OS to be flashed onto it again. I asked them to make me a deal to trade for an iFly 740. All of those issues were addressed in the iFly 740. It boots fast. Has a much brighter screen that is more sensitive than the 720, but not overly sensitive like my Android unit. And it has an internal battery that will run it for ~15 minutes. And the WiFi on the 740 seems to work much better. I also fly with an Android running the same iFly software. I find it to be a bit overly sensitive when I'm flying in rough air, so it's easy to get the wrong things keyed in. It's not nearly as bright as the iFly 740, but about the same as the iFly 720. The android also seems to be susceptible to RF interference that knocks the WiFi off line, so it drops the connection to my ADS-B gear. Yesterday, the Android overheated and shut down for ~30 minutes while sitting in the same bright sunlight right next to my iFly unit, so I would say the iFly unit is a bit more hardy in real world environments. I never had my iFly 720 or 740 shut down due to heat, but the Android has quit twice requiring it to cool for about 30 minutes in front of a vent and out of the sunlight before it was functional again. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> Engine Exaust Muffler
? In the Experimental world, mufflers are typically left off since the are not required, and are both expensive, and heavy. I run open headers on the O-200 on my KR. The prop typically makes as much or more noise than the exhaust. I chose to put my $$ into noise cancelling headsets rather than a high $$ exhaust. An A-65 turns slow enough that they are relatively quiet anyway. No doubt you've heard a Champ (air knocker) fly over. They got the Air Knocker moniker for their unique sound using a pair of open "Y" pipes for the exhaust. Cubs and Taylorcraft (all with A-65s) both had mufflers on them. So it's really up to you as to whether you think a Champ is noisy enough that you would want to muffle it. On my SuperCub Clone, I chose to use the exhaust from a Grumman Cheetah. I happened to be at a Grumman salvage yard near San Antonio and asked what they would charge for a used exhaust. The guy said they can't sell them, then handed me two of them that I was able to modify for use on the SuperCub. I must say, I do like having a quiet exhaust with a really good heat exchanger for cabin heat. I often times cruise the Cub at very low throttle settings, so with the engine turning slow and not making much power, it is not offensive to people on the ground when I fly over at low level. I rarely fly low in the KR, and rarely fly it at low throttle settings, so I am usually high enough that the noise from the KR isn't offensive to ground dwellers. -Jeff Scott -- > Does anyone have a muffler on their engine? I think those are relatively rare in the Experimental world (in the US, at least). I once installed some "silencers" inside the 1.5" exhaust pipes on the Corvair (think VW Beetle tailpipe), just before flying to OSH one year. It made a noticeable difference, but not huge. When I got back I discovered one of them had loose and had slid out an inch or two, and the other one was gone entirely! Somewhere along the way there's a silencer in a field. The Corvair wouldn't get rave reviews on flybys with a muffler! Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options
KR> General Aviation ADS-B Rebate Program
I have to agree. I'm not very happy about the FAA burning $10M in tax money for this stuff. It reminds me of the cash for clunkers debacle. That's us, and our grand kids paying for that stuff. I doubt that anyone here will buy a TSO'd unit for their KR anyway, so this money isn't there to help us. Remember, ADS-B is optional for many of us even after 2020. I have my KR equipped and have had for a couple of years now. But I travel in it and fly it in busy airspace at times. My SuperCub clone is not equipped, and may never get equipped unless I decide to start using it for something other than knocking around in the boondocks. Where I fly the Cub, the ADS-B coverage is really poor and most of the time I'm below most any other aviation traffic. -Jeff Scott ? -- Sent:?Wednesday, June 08, 2016 at 2:48 PM From:?"brian.kraut--- via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com Subject:?Re: KR> General Aviation ADS-B Rebate Program Can't really say that I am overly happy that the FAA is giving away ten million dollars of our tax money with rebates. As far as equipping your plane now, if you feel it is worth the money to you go ahead, but for the rebate you need TSOd equipment. Have not been looking at prices myself, but just might be more than $500 less if you got a non-TSOd unit which is not eligible for the rebate. Personally, I am going to wait at least a few years. I deal with electronics for large commercial ships for a living and I have been through very many mandatory new equipment requirements (several dozen at least) and every time it is the same story. Calls of panic from the regulators and the equipment manufacturers that equipment prices may go up and ship owners may not be able to get equipment or installation in time if they wait till close to the deadline. This is followed by newer, better, and less expensive equipment being introduced by lots of manufacturers, then followed by major price cuts as all the manufacturers try to get as much of the market share as possible. Would not surprise me at all if there are $300 solutions readily available before the deadline.
KR> Cleveland Brakes with DOT 3
Joe, If you are determined to use DOT brake fluid with Cleveland brakes, I would recommend using DOT 5 silicone based fluid. DOT 5 will be compatible with both your master cylinders and your slave cylinders. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? Sent:?Sunday, June 05, 2016 at 4:13 PM From:?"bjoenunley via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?bjoenunley Subject:?KR> Cleavland Brakes with DOT 3 Can cleavland brakes operate with DOT 3 brake fluid? I'm using motorcycle master cylinders that use DOTS 3. Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida? options
KR> Split elevator & Gap Seals for elevator/rudder
?I built a removable split elevator with gap seals when I rebuilt the tail on my KR in 2005. There are some photos, although not very detailed at <http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/tail.html> and <http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/2013_Trim.html>. The gap seals are a single laminate of Carbon Fiber laid up on a waxed bench top, then squeegeed with peel ply just as lean and thin as I could make them. That made the CF roughly .010" thick. I laid it up along the trailing edge of the horizontal stab with a 2" overlap onto the stab and 2" over the elevator both top and bottom. The CF strip was then feathered into the horizontal stab. Small removable cutouts were added along the lower gap seal to access the elevator mounting bolts. The spars for the two elevator halves are clamped between 2 pieces of 4130 plate with 3 AN3 bolts through each spar half. I don't know if an engineer would approve this installation, but it has been flying on my KR for 600 hrs now. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? - On 5/30/2016 12:00 PM, Frank Hamelly via KRnet wrote: I want to use a split elevator on my KR and am wondering how to attach the two halves in the middle to maintain structural integrity.? I've seen that Steve Anderson's KR used a split elevator but how were the two sides fused?? ? Also, thinking about using gap seals between the horizontal and vertical stabs and the elevator/rudder.? I have a 7/8" gap to fill which seems like it would be much easier to use than building up the bull nose on the leading edges while providing clear access to the hinges.? I'm using the rod-end bearing hinge design, with 5 hinges instead of 3.? ? Thanks in advance for the advice. ? Frank Hamelly ?? ? ? _
KR> Regressive upgrades... or
No good deed goes unpunished. I'm beginning to wonder about the mechanical reliably of the Pmags. They should not be breaking like that. -- Wayne DeLisle Sr. - The only thing I can say about the Pmags is that the failures I have seen are not typical to them. Emag said they thought I may have bumped the edge connector during installation causing the original failure some 65 hours later. I don't think so, but it is a possibility. The second failure was caused by them fixing the first and not torquing the assembly properly when they put it back together. Would I still buy them again. Yeah. I think I would. But my enthusiasm isn't as high as before. In general, they would like to have you ship them back for inspection every couple of hundred hours. Their inspections are inexpensive. But like many "new" products in aviation, it really is still and R product and doesn't have the millions of hours of history like Slick or Bendix. I will say their service has been really good. They have never charged me a cent for repairs. Not even shipping. If I had a mag failure 100 hrs down the road, I'd be buying a new mag on my nickel. -Jeff Scott
KR> Regressive upgrades... or
to 50 amps, and my ammeter is only a 30 amp ammeter.? But my old lead acid battery won't accept a 30 amp charge, so the 30 amp ammeter will still work just fine.? Also, replacing the starter requires some major surgery to the engine as you have to cut off the starter gear pinion shaft inside the accessory case.? There just isn't any way to do it without getting a bucn of grit and metal into the engine requiring an extensive internal engine clean up.?? Once done, there is no going back to the old Delco Pull type starter.? ? So, I installed the new alternator and the super high torque, high efficiency B starter.? After 4 weeks, I had the engine surgery completed, the wiring upgrades completed, the Pmags back and installed, and the new alternator, regulator, and high torque super efficient starter installed.? Great news, that knocked 10# off the weight of the plane.? The bad news, it all came off the nose moving the CG a bit aft.? The new W shows that I should still be OK, but will have to be a bit more aware of loading in the baggage area.? I pulled the plane out, hit the new starter button, watched the engine spin like mad on the starter, but it wouldn't start.? The new starter spun the engine impressively fast, but the engine refused to fire.? Exasperated, I chocked the plane, set the throttle to low idle, walked around front and flipped the prop.? The engine lit right off.? Now that is truly strange.? ? The next day I got the KR out and ran into the same thing.? The engine would spin like mad, but refused to fire.? Again, a flip of the prop and it lit right off.? I rolled the plane back into the hangar and topped off the charge on the battery.? When I rolled it out, again, it would spin over and start.? I know the Pmags will start if there is 8v present.? Apparently the B starter is so efficient, it is pulling the system voltage down low enough that the Pmags won't fire.? After sitting for a couple of weeks, once again, the engine would spin over quite readily, but refused to start.? Great.? Now I need to upgrade the battery.? I have been using a lead acid motorcycle battery rated at 175 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) for the last 19 years.? But now that I have "upgraded" the starter, I need more amperage.? So, the next adventure in spending is finding a suitable battery that isn't any larger (as I don't more room), but has more amperage available for starting.? About the only choice was to go with a LiFePo battery.? EarthX seems to have the best reputation and in their aircraft batteries have redundant battery management systems with a lead that can be connected to an EFIS or in cockpit LED to indicate if one of the battery management systems is failing.? For a mere $379, plus $40 for a battery box, I got a battery that is less than 1/2 the size of my old motorcycle battery, weighs less than 4# vs the 14# of the old battery, and puts out nearly twice the cold cranking amps.? (320 vs 175 CCA).? The engine spins at 350 rpm just on the starter and starts quite readily now.? The good news is that I have further reduced the weight of the plane by another 10#.? The bad news is that the further weight reduction was also in front of the CG, nudging the aircraft CG a bit further aft.? Still well within the CG envelope, but I do have to be careful about loading the baggage compartment. ? ? But, with a battery that will deliver amperage as fast as the EarthX battery, it will also charge at a high rate.? When I first start, I can easily bury the needle on my ammeter.? For now, I need to idle for about 30 seconds until the voltage regulator reduces the charge rate on the battery, otherwise I'll be exceeding the capabilities of my gauge and will likely release the smoke from the gauge.? The next domino to fall will be a new ammeter. ? I'm not looking for advice.? Just thought I'd toss out what I've learned during this adventure in spending for others to contemplate when thinking about upgrades. ? -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? ? ? ?
KR> Regressive upgrades... or
KR> Lycombing/continental - Used Engines
As Larry sez... I am not a fan of flying behind an engine until it has been torn down and inspected. I learned the hard way that what's in the logs isn't necessarily the whole story; and in some cases, isn't even related to what's actually in the engine. 25 years ago I had a used engine with 200 hrs SMOH in the logs blow up... at night... in the mountains. The remains of the engine made just enough power to extend the glide and I made it into an airport with about 100' of altitude to spare. Upon tear down, the only thing in that engine that had been overhauled was the log book. The part that failed had been superseded by service bulletin in 1947. The valves in that engine had been superseded in 1953. Oh yeah, and the mechanic that signed the logs for the overhaul apparently performed the overhaul 10 years after his death! That motivated me to get my A and I have built every engine I've flown behind since. When I was building my SuperCub I did a log book review for someone that was interested in an O-320 Lycoming. Man, that engine looked really good on paper, and I recommended it as a good buy. I also told him that it looked so good that if he didn't want it, I would buy it for my SuperCub project. He passed on the engine, so I bought it. Even though it was a first run engine and wasn't run out, I wanted to go through it. I found; 4 badly overheated and cracked cylinders, 2 spauled cam followers and a spauled camshaft, a cracked crank, one wrist pin from an O-235 and a cracked and out of spec case. About the only thing good in the engine was the gears in the accessory case. It wasn't a cheap overhaul, but I am so glad I followed my first rule of aircraft engines; Tear it down and inspect it before you fly! ? -Jeff Scott + You might want to bump that up to $4000 and $4500 if you overhaul the carb, new exhaust and new mags. Less if you can find and engine in good condition that is simply bolted on , new exhaust, and run for hundreds of hours. Continental should cost less to rebuild as cylinders are hundreds of dollars cheaper. Any used engine should have the crank checked for run out indicating a possible prop strike. A lesson I learned the hard way. Jeff Scott would not recommend flying behind a used engine without disassembly and proper checkout. Good advise. In the end its a personal decision on your comfort level concerning reliability, and how much ongoing maintenance / rebuilding you want to be doing. I purchased an 0-200 with 1800 hours time, installed new mags and wire harness, rebuilt the carb, and put another 550 hours on it having only to replace one cylinder. I've since installed stainless steel exhaust and overhauled the mags and carb at the 500 hour mark. As always, your results may vary. Larry Flesner
KR> Fwd: Gathering hats/ shirts
Not that we don't all want to have Larry's KR on our hats and shirts, but I thought I'd toss out a suggestion that has been a long standing tradition at a Fly In event I've been attending for the last 30 years. At this particular Fly In, the previous years "Grand Champion" (or in our case "Best KR") gets digitized and is on the advertising, T-shirts, baseball caps, and coffee mugs sold to the next year's attendees as the face of the fly in. The coffee mugs are handed out as part of the registration fee, so everyone that registers gets one. (Yes, I do have 30 airplane coffee mugs) I realize this would add some extra expense and work for the Gathering host, and ultimately it is the Gathering host that decides what they will and won't do and what plane, planes or logos go on the shirts. I don't know the cost of having a new picture digitized and turned into an embroidery, so for all I know, it may not be worth the cost or the effort. But it is a nice tradition that is followed by that particular Fly In. On the other hand, the Gathering host has free reign to sell the shirts and hats of his choice (or none at all), and I am loath to tie anyone into something that might discourage them from hosting a Gathering. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? Subject:?KR> Fwd: Gathering hats/ shirts > >Netters, > >If it comes through, here is the embroidery for this years Gathering >hats / shirts (light blue denim, button up, with pocket). Any >resemblance to a particular KR is strictly coincidental. :-) I'll also have John load it to the Gathering site. >Larry Flesner
KR> Ray Allen trim
? ? ? >Can someone direct me to a thread about using the Ray Allen trim >systems on a kr2. I am new to figuring out this whole krnet thing. > ? <http://jeffsplanes.com/> Lots of photos of installing the Ray Allen trim in both my KR and my SuperCub. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> KR crash reports
Don't know about the turbine KR or Roberts Muse's KR, but I saw Bobby Muse's KR was destroyed in southern California in a fatal crash by the new owner trying to fly it home in ridiculously high winds. Seems to me that Don Betcham's KR ended up upside down somewhere near Rapid City, SD in an accident, but the new owner walked away. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? ? Lots of other good info available also if you google "faa accident report kr2". I've often wondered what happened to several KRs I've seen in the past like Robert Muse's KR , the turbine KR seen at the Perry, Oklahoma KR Gathering in the late 90's, and the retractable gear KR owned by the Gathering host at Perry. Larry Flesner ?
KR> parachutes
If one is giving serious thought to always flying with a parachute, I would recommend giving serious consideration to engineering in a BRS system from the beginning. In a KR, I would think that would mean extending the engine mount and cowl in order to accommodate the additional weight of the BRS system under the turtle deck. ? Look at the number of "saves" claimed by Cirrus.? A big part of buying a Cirrus Aircraft is doing the Cirrus Pilot Training, which is quite heavy on training for "when to pull the handle", 'cause "If you haven't planned for it, and haven't trained for it, you won't do it."? ? In the last 8 years, I have had 8 friends perish in aircraft crashes.? That is a pretty significant number.? Of those, had the pilot been wearing a chute, one of them likely would have been able to exit the aircraft and would have survived.? Had their aircraft all been equipped with a BRS system and the pilot willing to use it, it is likely that as many as 5 of my friends would still be alive.? Three of them simply put themselves in such a bad position that they had no chance. ? When thinking about airbags, the Cirrus has multiple bags and inflators on the shoulder harnesses to protect the chest, neck and head area of the pilot/passenger.? I've never heard any studies of the impact results, but it is an interesting concept and is something now available for Experimental Aircraft.? Of course the downside is that these things are not inexpensive and require periodic replacement. ? -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? Sent:?Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 8:22 PM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mark Langford" Subject:?KR> parachutes Regarding parachutes, it's worth mentioning that there's never been an inflight structural failure of a KR (the all-composite one at high speed at the Gathering doesn't count, in my mind), although there is a question of elevator bellcrank failure in one plane, but it's possible it was crash induced. There may be others, but no spar or fuselage failure that I know of. So given that record and the many thousands of KR hours logged, what are the chances that you're going to have to go down somewhere so inhospitable that you can do some semblance of a landing somewhere? Even if it's in the tree tops, you'll likely survive it. So assuming you are still in control of a plane that's capable of gliding, I'd just stall it in the tree tops somewhere. John Schaffer did that in a flat spin from 8000', and survived. And how much time do you spend over that kind of terrain in Missouri anyway? Your chances are looking better already! Jeff Scott probably doesn't like what he sees out the window 75% of the time, but he doesn't wear a parachute. Jumping out of a spinning or otherwise disabled plane is not without its risks as well...perhaps higher than sticking with the plane to put it on the ground somewhere. You could get whacked in the head by the horizontal stabilizer, or your parachute might be a streamer, etc. And what if your plane crashes into a house and kills a family eating lunch? That'd be bad. I guess what I'm trying to say is if you are so concerned about a structural or control failure, you should probably start thinking twin engines and lot of other redundancy. Statistics are on your side though...if your plane goes down, it'll likely be a fuel problem or a broken crankshaft, and then you simply land in a field or on a road. At least that way you still have a plane that you can rebuild or scavenge for parts, or just maybe, it won't have a scratch on it! No need to carry 20 pounds around for years expecting it to pay off someday, when it likely won't. I have about 1400 hours of KR time, and I've had plenty of engine problems, and zero structural problems. With the plane 20 pounds lighter, and the comfort of not being packed into my seat with a parachute, I've had some pretty smooth and enjoyable flying so far. And yes, I do know that the second engine is just there to get you to the scene of the crash... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search][http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]][http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search][http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]]]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html][http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html]][http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html][http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html]]] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.
KR> Landing gear question
? ? >I recently bought a couple of gear legs that are fiberglass and for >a Grumman Should I make them narrower or thinner >Mark W. + Seeing no replies to your question I'll offer my "opinion". If you are building a tail dragger I'd leave them full length. A nose dragger may require you to shorten them to match the nose gear. If you expect your KR to come in around the 700-750 pound range, many do now days, I'd leave them original thickness and cut them to the contour of the Diehl legs. I've got 30" Diehl gear legs and I thickened them a bit. That's my "opinion" based on my experience. Jeff Scott has the only other set of 30" inch legs and I don't know if he "thickened" them or not. Mine seemed to be a bit soft with two people , early in the build process. Larry Flesner --- My gear legs have the micro with soda straws formed into the leading and trailing edges for brake lines and a wrap of BID glass to finish. I've been pounding this poor plane on the ground relentlessly for over 1100 hours, usually at or near 1200#, and have never had any issues related to the landing gear. Mine are a bit softer than many others, but that doesn't seem to affect them adversely. Soft gear makes for smooth landings. :o) Like Larry, I think I would taper them to match the contour of the Diehl gear, give them a wrap with glass to finish and call it close enough. -Jeff Scott Los Alamso, NM
KR> Was MGL, Now iFly
?My iFly 720 bit the dust as well and I wasn't willing to put $$ into a unit that seemed to have chronic problem. Had numerous issues with it in the short time I had it. When it crapped out, I went up the ladder at the company a bit and asked for some consideration on the pricing if I traded the 720 that had chronic problems from day 1 for an iFly 740. They did give me a discount toward the 740 somewhat better than the trade-up they were offering at the time. The 740 has worked flawlessly, has a brighter screen, much improved wifi, boots much faster, has 30 minutes of backup battery, etc. It is simply a much more robust unit. I do carry an Android as a backup and often run them side-by-side for comparison. While the iFly 740 is preferable over my Android and clearly superior in a few areas, it isn't by much. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? -- Sent:?Saturday, May 07, 2016 at 9:00 PM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mark Langford" Subject:?Re: KR> MGL and the new instrument panel For that matter, I just got my iFly 720 back in the mail for the second time in two years with maybe 250 hours of use on it. I "bricked" it doing a routine software update just before the Chino Gathering, and the touch screen went south recently, requiring a new one for $120. The software is superb and vastly intuitive, but the hardware has reliability issues. The lack of an internal battery is unforgivable. Compare the old iPad2, which is pretty robust (it stood up to many years of use by my teenage daughter before I inherited it), which has bluetooth and wifi built in and is half as thick with a screen twice as big, has a battery that lasts for many hours (for years), and can be bought used off of ebay for under $100...and it runs the iFly software perfectly. Add a Stratus ADS-b coupled to it, and my old EIS engine monitor, a Trutrak autopilot, an altimeter and airspeed steam gauge, and I'll be quite happy. That's my next instrument panel. See enclosed image... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Continental Engine Mount dimensions
Steve Glover makes a fantastic 0200 mount. At a reasonable price. Saves a lot of work. I have one in my kr2ss. PHIL Matheson ? --- I didn't know Steve was producing the O-200 mount. I sent Steve the same RR drawings I've shared with several others here on the net. Having it prefabbed and professionally welded saves a lot of time and should be a good quality mount. I just looked it up on his web site. Steve charges roughly $100 more than I paid for my mount from Jeannette 20 years ago, so I'd call it a pretty good value. The lower cross brace on the mount is a bit tight for the generator or alternator. I found that it cleared the 20 Amp Delco generator just fine, but had heard that it was a problem with the alternators available for the C series/O-200 20 years ago. However, I recently mounted a Plane Power 50 Amp alternator to my O-200. I did some minor dressing down of one of the bosses on the side of the alternator to ensure plenty of clearance from the mount, but it does fit pretty nicely. I think it's pretty common to add some additional webbing and an aluminum angle across the shelf to support the O-200 and Corvair engines. While Marty's engine stayed attached, it's pretty common for the KRs to tear the firewall out of the aircraft on a hard landing/crash. I've seen it happen many times, even with the VW engines. I guess we could have a debate about whether it is desirable to have the engine separate on impact, but I think I'd rather all the big pieces stay in place. I do recall the severe foot injuries Dan had when the engine and firewall separated on a hard landing of N4DD at Mt Vernon. He is not the first I've seen come to a stop with his feet sticking out through where the firewall used to be. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> Continental Engine Mount dimensions
Sorry for the blank email. I sent a copy of the Rand Robinson O-200 mount drawings to Stan. If anyone else needs a copy, just drop me an email. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? ? Sent:?Wednesday, May 04, 2016 at 8:43 PM From:?"Global Solutions via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Global Solutions" Subject:?Re: KR> Continental Engine Mount dimensions Does anyone have a drawing (dimensions) for the continental engine mount used in a KR2S? I called the company directly for the bolt hole locations / dimensions so that I could cad something up but they don't have any information on this. They cant tell me the size of any holes or the location of them on the engine. Seems crazzy as they make the engines. Even if they get the castings from somewhere else you would think they would have this info. Thanks Stan
KR> Continental Engine Mount dimensions
KR> Facet fuel pump flare?
Wow! That's a lot of metal plumbing in front of the firewall. That stuff loves to absorb and transfer heat. Putting the pumps in front of the firewall where they are exposed to heat is inviting vapor lock at the pumps, which can cause engine stoppage with no recovery until it cools down. I went through this scenario helping a builder with a Sonex that seemed to be always on the edge of vapor lock. The solution was to fabricate a box around all those metal components, open on the bottom for the cooling air to exit, then add a NACA scoop to the side of the lower cowl to supply cooling air to the box. We put a thermocouple on the gascolator before and after this mod. Before adding the cooling box to the fuel components in front of the firewall, the gascolator was measured at 180?F during flight. That is warm enough to boil the fuel and cause a vapor lock. After adding the cooling box to the fuel components, the gascolator always measured within 10? of ambient air temp. I am assuming you were already planning to cool these components, so am pointing this out as a potential safety issue for others that may want to put all those components on the front side of the firewall. I had friend that destroyed his E-AB aircraft when it vapor locked. When he was taxiing for take off with the engine hot following a previous flight, the fuel pressure dropped and the engine was running rough, so he flipped on the boost pump to restore pressure. The fuel pressure came back up to normal and the engine smoothed out, so he figured it was a vapor lock issue and would clear up once the engine got good airflow in the air. The problem is that his boost pump was also mounted in front of the firewall without any heat shielding or cooling air supplied. He made it to around 400' altitude before the heat saturated boost pump started cavitating as it also vapor locked. The engine quit forcing a landing on a road. He hit the power lines over the road first and had a less than stellar landing causing significant damage to his aircraft. It's worth noting that Piper put the boost pump and gascolator in front of the firewall on the PA-38 and the later PA-28 aircraft. In both cases, those components are mounted with a shield between the fuel components and the rest of the engine compartment and a small NACA scoop supplying air to the fuel components. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM ? Sent:?Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 8:55 AM From:?"Paul Visk via KRnet" To:?"KR EMAIL BOARD" Cc:?"Paul Visk" Subject:?Re: KR> Facet fuel pump flare? Paul ViskBelleville Il?618 406 4705? Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 6. Pete, ?Here's a picture of my firewall with my primary and backup Facet pumps all with AN ?fittings. ?Along with my gascator, fuel pressure and fuel flow transmitters.?The idea came from the Sonex's Corvair engine installation manual. ?With this installation there is no pressure ice fuel in the cotpit. ? Paul Visk?Belleville Il?618 406 4705?.? The Facet is part 40108 and is made 3/8" flared and also AN-6. The Earl's fuel filters are part number 230106 and are AN-6. The Facet AN-6 is made for the racing world. Here is a link where you can get the AN-6 Facets: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=84 Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI
KR> O-200
The O-200 oil pump usually won't prime turning on the starter and takes nearly forever to prime at an idle. You can idle the engine right up to damaging the bearings and still may not get oil pressure. If you want to pre-oil the engine, the technique Mike describes works pretty well, and is a really good thing to do if you don't know how the engine was lubed when it was assembled. If I have had the engine apart and lost the prime on the oil pump, just a few seconds at 1500 rpm is enough for it to pick up it's prime again. When assembling any aircraft engine, I use a generous amount of Lubriplate Assembly Lube on all bearing, seal, and contact surfaces. The exception is the cam lobes and cam followers, which get a coating of black moly cam break-in grease on the contact faces. The Lubriplate grease will stay in place if the engine gets stored for a few years, and will protect the bearings and surfaces during startup until the oil pump primes and starts providing oil pressure. The oil cooler mount is where the after market spin on oil filter mounts to the engine on the back left side of the case. If you have neither, there is a small bypass plate mounted there on 3 studs. ? Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM --- Sent:?Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 7:40 AM From:?"Mike Sylvester via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?"Mike Sylvester" Subject:?Re: KR> O-200 I never could get my O-200 to self prime, I had left the spark plugs out to take the pressure off of the rod bearings and to make her easy to spin over but she just would not pick up the oil. I finally pulled the side plate where the filter mounts and poured oil in the top hole until it would not take any more. I think that I even turned the prop backwards to make sure that it would enter the pump. I then put the plate back on. This worked, I had oil pressure. PS, It takes a lot of oil, you have to back fill the screen cavity. Mike Sylvester kr2s builder Birmingham,AL. Cell no.205-966-3854 To: KRnet Cc: Gary Hamilton Subject: Re: KR> O-200 OK. Thank you. Now to find the oil cooler port plug. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 30, 2016, at 6:31 AM, bjoenunley via KRnet > wrote: > > > > Gary said; "Any of you guys with O-200 engine have knowledge of how to start > up after rebuild? Is there a ?pre-oil? procedure?" > On the a65 we removed the oil cooler port plug, used vynal tubing and a > funnel to gavity feed enough oil to prime the oil pump. > I hope that helps > Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at > http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] > see > http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] > to change options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search[http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search]. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html[http://www.krnet.org/info.html] see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org[http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org] to change options
KR> Facet fuel pump flare?
If you read the Q under the Facet Pumps on the AS Web site, it states that the 40108 model has an AN-6 male flare fitting. -Jeff Scott - Sent:?Saturday, April 23, 2016 at 7:55 AM From:?"brian.kraut--- via KRnet" To:?KRnet Cc:?brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com Subject:?Re: KR> Facet fuel pump flare? Spruce catalog used to list one that specifically said it had the AN flare. Those are the ones I always used. They don't give that much detail on the web site. Original Message Subject: Re: KR> Facet fuel pump flare? From: Dan Heath via KRnet List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Sat, April 23, 2016 4:28 am To: "'KRnet'" Cc: Dan Heath I have hooked up many facet pumps on both my first and second KR2. I always used the standard AN flared tube or AN fittings and they all fit perfectly. I bought my facets from either Wicks or AS, but I am not sure that would matter at all.
KR> KR Engine Cowling
? ? ? Mark / Netters I have run the CG numbers many times using four different datum reference points and have determined that I need to move the engine three inches fwd of the WW location for a standard KR-2S. As Joe Horton noted, my plane is 1'-3" longer than any of the other planes that responded to his request for dimensions. My flying CG with me and partial fuel to max gross wt at 1320 goes from 1.25" aft of the fwd limit to 3.5" aft of the fwd limit, well within the "preferred 6" CG range. All the calculations came within a 1/16" no matter where I set the datum. My next step is to build the cowling. Ron Willet is making a female mold off a cowling plug that I have as we speak. I will do the same after I make some slight changes to the plug, to clear the alternator. My question for Mark and fellow netters is where to purchase carbon fiber cloth other than Aircraft Spruce as they are pretty pricey. Also need to know which weave is best to use. Thanks in advance for any info, Pete Klapp ? Pete, I don't think you'll regret moving the engine forward. These planes put on weight as they age. Everything you lighten up seems to be in front of the CG. Everything you add to the plane seems to be behind the CG. When I did a new W for my plane last week I was surprised at how much the CG has crept back over the last 20 years. It's still good, but that's because I started out with a very forward CG. A quick google search shows that Aircraft Spruce is pretty competitive on the price for CF cloth if you're buying small amounts.? You can get much better prices, but you have to buy in bulk (like100 yds) to get them.? One of the better deals I saw was buying remnant on Ebay.? Like 5 yds for $125, which might be about right for your cowl.? Of course you could build the cowl out of glass.? Then you can shorten your mount 1/2" thanks to the heavier cowl. :o)? ? -Jeff Scott ?
KR> Tail Wheel Spring
? ? I would recommend the "Aviation Products" tailwheel assembly that has served me well for 550 hours now. I think Mark Langford used that same assembly on 56ML I modified it a while back by having the arm lengthened a bit over one inch and installed a Matco 6" fully pneumatic wheel assembly (not shown in the photo). I love it!! It totally eliminated all the rumble of the old 4" solid wheel. My KR handles on the ground as well as any tri-gear with no braking action required. The springs are Maule anti-shimmy springs. The unit is steerable with breakaway full swivel at about 30 degrees. I can spin the KR on one wheel on the ramp. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8714.JPG Larry Flesner I would recommend the same, except to buy the one with the 6" semi-pneumatic wheel. I have over 1100 hrs on mine now. I do recommend adding a flat washer type bushing to the bottom of the vertical shaft so you can use the top nut on the tailwheel to preload it to prevent shimmy. Other than adjusting the preload about every 50 hrs or so, and replacing the bearings once or twice in 20 years now, it has been about as good of a tailwheel as I have ever owned. <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/homebuilder_tailwheel2.php> -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> Tail Wheel Spring
?Anyways, my question today is about tail wheel springs. If I?m lucky my plane will look a bit like Pete Brautigam?s, and he has a very nice looking tail wheel spring set up. Most of the KR?s I see pictures of do not have tail wheel connect springs, which seems quite unusual. Clearly it must be ok. Is it? Cheers, Owen Hughes ___ ? I am assuming you are referencing the springs on the tailwheel steering cables typically found on other aircraft. I had them on my KR for a number of years. With a little slack in the steering cables, the springs were typically standing straight up while in flight. Generally speaking they were good for creating drag, but didn't serve much of a useful function for the plane. I eventually eliminated them and prefer to fly with just a little slack in the cables for the tailwheel steering. So on the ground, the primary steering is with the rudder. The cables to the tailwheel will turn the tailwheel a bit just before the rudder pedal bottoms out. Tight turns are always going to be made with the brakes anyway. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> Holes in belly board
? ? Sent:?Wednesday, April 06, 2016 at 12:20 PM From:?"Mike Stirewalt via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?laser147 at juno.com Subject:?KR> Holes in belly board Joe Nunley said, > " . . . and put holes in your belly board. ;) We've talked about this subject some years back . . . it'll all be in those great archive resource we have. In my experience and in looking into the subject, the main plane we think of as having holes in their dive brakes was the SBD Dauntless. I think the Stuka had them too. My KR came with holes in the belly board so back when I first got it (ten years ago this July!) I was wondering if I could get better drag from it if I covered up the holes. So as an experiment, I did. I covered the board with duct tape thus creating a flat surface. Having the holes covered made a very, very slight improvement in the drag effectiveness of my belly board. It also did a better job of creating a bit of lift, thus reducing stalling speed. The difference was very slight. _snipped short_ Mike KSEE It's probably worth noting that the dive bombers used these as dive brakes. They had a bottom perforated surface to the flap that extended downward, and a top perforated surface that extended upward when deployed, essentially a split flap with both halves deployable in opposite directions. That allowed them to dive nearly vertical without exceeding max structural airspeed and deliver a bomb with a straight down drop, yet still be slow enough to pull out of the dive without pulling the wings off the plane. That was the core mission behind the design of these perforated dive brakes. That mission is significantly different from using them as flaps to slow for landing. Maybe I should take the hole saw to my flaps next. Yeah, that will be something really different -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> Gap Seals
? ? Sent:?Tuesday, April 05, 2016 at 8:07 PM From:?"Mark Langford via KRnet" To:?krnet at list.krnet.org Cc:?"Mark Langford" Subject:?Re: KR> Adverse Yaw Owen wrote: > However, I also read an article about how important gap seals are for > increasing climb performance. See http://www.n56ml.com/troy/ for more on gap seals. Just looking at that big honkin' gap that you get when you build the wings per the plans, you can guess that there's an improvement in performance with gap seals. I built my wings with a Frise aileron, and with gap seals on that, I saw no benefit at all to the seals, mainly because the gap seals itself if you do it right. See http://www.n56ml.com/owings.html[http://www.n56ml.com/owings.html][http://www.n56ml.com/owings.html[http://www.n56ml.com/owings.html]] for more on that (near the bottom). Some folks would think that life is too short to spend this kind of effort on the ailerons, but I thought it was pretty simple and made a lot of sense. I will do my next one the same way, but will likely use a piano hinge at the top for simplicity and drag reductions (eliminating those external hinges from the airstream). Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com[http://www.n56ml.com][http://www.n56ml.com[http://www.n56ml.com]] --- I'll offer a completely different view of gap seals based on my experience testing them on my KR with the Diehl Wing/RAF-48. First off, if you built per plans, you should have a piano hinge that goes across the complete span of the aileron. While it's not even close to a "seal" it's also not an open flow of air up through the aileron hinge, so it isn't really disturbing the air flow on the top side of the wing. However, the gap seal will help streamline across teh gap from the bottom of the wing to the bottom of the aileron. Now for the real world testing... I used the mylar gap seals stuck to the trailing edge of the wing with 3M double stick tape. I tested both with and without the gap seals. With several climbs to altitude and several speed runs. I found no discernible difference in the performance numbers of my aircraft between flying with and without the gap seals. However, I did find that the mylar film really sucked up tight against the bottom of the aileron and caused the ailerons to bind to where it took a significant amount of muscle to move the ailerons at higher speeds. I was not at all comfortable with flying the plane with the ailerons in such a heavy condition, so once I had completed the testing, the gap seals were removed. My testing with the gap seals was an attempt to differentiate between real numbers vs anecdotal pilot induced fantasies; although since I'm pretty big on making speed improvements, I was really expecting big gains. That turned out to be not the case. I made it a point to fly the plane under conditions as identical as possible with the same load conditions between testing with and without gap seals. Just because I saw no performance advantage with the gap seals, and on my plane, a significant disadvantage, doesn't mean you won't find them to be advantageous on your plane. Also, I'll emphasize again, my testing was with RAF 48 Diehl Wings. Those that have tested with the "new" AS series airfoil have reported significant performance improvements. I thought my original test data was lost to time, but thanks to the archives, I readily located my original post with the testing data from Sept 2, 2000. See the post and test data below. Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM - KR Pilots and Testers. Over the course of the summer, with some supplies from Mark Langford and Oscar Zuniga, we tested my KR-2S with the ?per plans? installation of the RAF 48 Airfoil and Diehl Wing skins with the use of Aileron gap seals. The seals were a thin mylar film that was stuck to the bottom of the wing with 3M 444 industrial double sided tape, then the leading edge of the gap seals were taped over with electrical tape. The mylar film bridged the gap between the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the aileron on the bottom of the wing. The first order of business was to fly some performance numbers with the airplane. I started every session with the plane grossing 1075# and the temperature at 65 deg F at a pressure altitude of 6500 feet ASL. I did my time to climb testing by establishing a climb at a given airspeed at 6200 feet, then maintaining that climb speed through 6500 feet and timing it up through 7500feet. I tested at the speeds around my best rate, so I could establish times for climbing at 85, 90, 95, and 100 mph IAS. The results of the time to climb testing are posted below. The first row was my time to climb speeds with the plane in the same configuration it has flown in since the first flight 3 years ago and was intended to be a baseline to use for comparison. It didn?t necessarily work out that way. The secon
KR> C.G location, Engine centerline
? ? ? >> Each time the engine moves forward >> so does the distance of your new "arm" for calculating the new >> moments (weight on the three scales). >Sure, it's a sum of moments either way. But why would you want to change not only the changed weights, but every other distance in the spreadsheet (or worse, your W sheet)? Now THAT's some bothersome math, adding whatever your new arm is to all those moment arms, rather than just the moment arm of the engine alone. That sounds like an increased opportunity for error, at least it would be for me. I know Larry knows this...just pointing it out... >Mark Langford >ML at N56ML.com >http://www.n56ml.com - As Mark correctly pointed out previous, Spinners come and go. In the last 1100+ hours, I've been through at least 5 spinners. Very few of them end up being exactly the same length, so you really have to consider the tip of the spinner to be a movable point, or a point that may not be there the next time you need to measure. The datum needs to be a reference point that will never move. Leading edge of the wing; bottom of the firewall; or as was pointed out previously; to keep the math easier by staying with all positive numbers, use an imaginary point with a fixed distance offset from a fixed point, like 5' in front of the bottom of the firewall. After all, you will likely be doing a new W periodically, so make it as easy for yourself as possible. During the build process, you tend to think in terms of getting the plane finished and it will always be the same once it's flying. I don't know about others, but over the last 20 years, I have made many, many modifications, additions, and deletions to my KR. Each of those modifications requires either a new W, or a modification to the existing W In either case, you have to start out with a measurement from the datum in order to either update your W, or make a new one. I'll be doing a new W on my KR again tomorrow after changing out the engine accessories for newer light weight accessories. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
