KR> Sanding

[Joe. E. Wallace]

For those of you that are sanding, remember I have lots of sandpaper in 50 yd 
rolls?.  24 36and some 60 grit for getting to the heavy stuff?.  give 
me your needs and will price as before?.  jw

Joe. E. Wallace
jwallacep51 at gmail.com

KR> Sanding Blocks

[tommy waymack via KRnet]

I have a roll of Norton 40x Resinall Metalite Cloth 29 inches wide and 80
ft. long.If anyone would like to have some for sanding,contact me off the
net.Tommy Waymack Pine Bluff,Arkansas


On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 10:11 AM, Wayne Tokarz via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> I also build R/C planes and the hobby shops sell sandpaper on the roll for
> about 5 -7$ It has a sticky back and you can stick it to almost anything,
> angle iron/aluminum, edge of 2 X 4, etc. worked great for me.
>
> Wayne
>
> -Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of
> ppaulvsk at aol.com via KRnet
> Sent: May-16-14 8:07 AM
> To: via KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Sanding Blocks
>
> That's a good idea and its cheaper than the floor sander paper.
>
> Paul Visk
> Bellev
>
> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
> - Reply message -----
> From: "via KRnet" 
> Date: Fri, May 16, 2014 7:21 am
> Subject: KR> Sanding Blocks
> To: "Adam Tippin" , "KRnet" 
>
> Another suggestion that I used is the stuff they sell to keep you from
> slipping - comes rough and has a sticky back.
> Paul N7970K
> - Original Message -
>
> From: "Adam Tippin via KRnet" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 10:38:47 PM
> Subject: Re: KR> Sanding Blocks
>
> Little late but just found your email in spam folder.
> Rap the sand paper around three sides and staple the two sides that you
> don't intend to use.
> On Apr 26, 2014 7:01 PM,  wrote:
>
> >
> > Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my
> > horizontal stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems
> > keeping the sandpaper on
> >  the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when
> > the edges  peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of
> > sanding and I figure  there's a LOT of experience out there with
> > sanding.  I could definitely use  some suggestions.
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Paul  Visk
> > Belleville Il.
> > 618-406-4705
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change
> > options
> >
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>
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>
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>

KR> Sanding Blocks

[via KRnet]

Another suggestion that I used is the stuff they sell to keep you from slipping 
- comes rough and has a sticky back. 
Paul N7970K 
- Original Message -

From: "Adam Tippin via KRnet"  
To: "KRnet"  
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 10:38:47 PM 
Subject: Re: KR> Sanding Blocks 

Little late but just found your email in spam folder. 
Rap the sand paper around three sides and staple the two sides that you 
don't intend to use. 
On Apr 26, 2014 7:01 PM,  wrote: 

> 
> Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal 
> stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the 
> sandpaper on 
> ?the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when the 
> edges ?peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of sanding 
> and I figure ?there's a LOT of experience out there with sanding. ?I could 
> definitely use ?some suggestions. 
> Thanks 
> 
> 
> Paul ?Visk 
> Belleville Il. 
> 618-406-4705 
> ___ 
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. 
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org 
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> 
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KR> Sanding Blocks

[Wayne Tokarz via KRnet]

I also build R/C planes and the hobby shops sell sandpaper on the roll for 
about 5 -7$ It has a sticky back and you can stick it to almost anything, angle 
iron/aluminum, edge of 2 X 4, etc. worked great for me.

Wayne

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of ppaulvsk at 
aol.com via KRnet
Sent: May-16-14 8:07 AM
To: via KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Sanding Blocks

That's a good idea and its cheaper than the floor sander paper. 

Paul Visk
Bellev

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

- Reply message -
From: "via KRnet" 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, May 16, 2014 7:21 am
Subject: KR> Sanding Blocks
To: "Adam Tippin" , "KRnet" 

Another suggestion that I used is the stuff they sell to keep you from slipping 
- comes rough and has a sticky back. 
Paul N7970K
- Original Message -

From: "Adam Tippin via KRnet" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 10:38:47 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Sanding Blocks 

Little late but just found your email in spam folder. 
Rap the sand paper around three sides and staple the two sides that you don't 
intend to use. 
On Apr 26, 2014 7:01 PM,  wrote: 

> 
> Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my 
> horizontal stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems 
> keeping the sandpaper on
>  the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when 
> the edges  peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of 
> sanding and I figure  there's a LOT of experience out there with 
> sanding.  I could definitely use  some suggestions.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Paul  Visk 
> Belleville Il. 
> 618-406-4705 
> ___ 
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. 
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> 
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KR> Sanding Blocks

[ppaul...@aol.com via KRnet]

That's a good idea and its cheaper than the floor sander paper. 

Paul Visk
Bellev

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

- Reply message -
From: "via KRnet" 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, May 16, 2014 7:21 am
Subject: KR> Sanding Blocks
To: "Adam Tippin" , "KRnet" 

Another suggestion that I used is the stuff they sell to keep you from slipping 
- comes rough and has a sticky back. 
Paul N7970K 
- Original Message -

From: "Adam Tippin via KRnet"  
To: "KRnet"  
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 10:38:47 PM 
Subject: Re: KR> Sanding Blocks 

Little late but just found your email in spam folder. 
Rap the sand paper around three sides and staple the two sides that you 
don't intend to use. 
On Apr 26, 2014 7:01 PM,  wrote: 

> 
> Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal 
> stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the 
> sandpaper on 
> ?the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when the 
> edges ?peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of sanding 
> and I figure ?there's a LOT of experience out there with sanding. ?I could 
> definitely use ?some suggestions. 
> Thanks 
> 
> 
> Paul ?Visk 
> Belleville Il. 
> 618-406-4705 
> ___ 
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. 
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org 
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> 
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KR> Sanding Blocks

[Adam Tippin via KRnet]

Little late but just found your email in spam folder.
Rap the sand paper around three sides and staple the two sides that you
don't intend to use.
On Apr 26, 2014 7:01 PM,  wrote:

>
> Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal
> stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the
> sandpaper on
>  the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when the
> edges  peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of sanding
> and I figure  there's a LOT of experience out there with sanding.  I could
> definitely use  some suggestions.
> Thanks
>
>
> Paul  Visk
> Belleville Il.
> 618-406-4705
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>

KR> Sanding blocks

[PPaulVsk at aol.com]

Thansk for the Ideas. I have a piece of 4" schedule 40. It's a  little 
heavy at 4'. I might go to Home depot and get a piece  of schedule 20. I'm 
trying a 1' x 4" with a L angle on top to stiffen it  up. With two vise grips 
clamped on to it for handle it working good. I  found a can on of  brush on 
Contact cement in the basement  which is working much better then the spray. I 
think for the outboard  wing and the turtleback I'll use the PVC pipe. 
I didn't know sanding could be so fun. Seeing my strips of  wood and foam 
blocks turn into a horizontal  stabilizer.   .  

Paul  Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705_  

I did  the same thing with a 2x4.  Staple the edge of the sandpaper to the  
vertical side of  the 2x4.  Worked for me.

Sid  Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville,  MD,


_ (http://www.mykitlog.com/PaulVisk/) 

KR> Sanding blocks

[smwood]

I did the same thing with a 2x4.  Staple the edge of the sandpaper to the 
vertical side of  the 2x4.  Worked for me.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal 
> stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the 
> sandpaper on the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold 
> and when the edges peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a 
> lot of sanding and I figure there's a LOT of experience out there with 
> sanding. ?I could definitely use some suggestions.?
> Thanks
>
> Paul Visk

KR> Sanding blocks

[Rob Schmitt]

I used aluminum angle, 2" x 2" I think or maybe 3" x 3" . I made up several, 
one as long as 8' to sand the foam in my scratch built wings. I got the 
sandpaper from the Sherwin Williams store. You can buy it in a length as long 
as you need and the sandpaper is very heavy duty. I glued it to the aluminum 
angle using the spray on adhesive you buy at Auto Repair stores that is used to 
glue on upholstery.  

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z


-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Jeff Scott
Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2014 10:50 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Sanding blocks

Paul, I would suggest a section of 4" or 6" PVC pipe.  It's stiff enough that 
it won't bend and the edges of the sandpaper will be glued up away from the 
surface so they can't dig in if it comes loose.

-Jeff Scott
White Plains Beach, HI (for this week)

> - Original Message -
> From: PPaulVsk at aol.com
> Sent: 04/26/14 05:46 PM
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Subject: KR> Sanding blocks
> 
> Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my 
> horizontal stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems 
> keeping the sandpaper on
>  the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when 
> the edges peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of 
> sanding and I figure there's a LOT of experience out there with 
> sanding. I could definitely use some suggestions.
> Thanks
> 
>  
> Paul Visk
> Belleville Il.
> 618-406-4705
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
> KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at 
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html see 
> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options


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KR> Sanding blocks

[Jeff Scott]

Point the nozzle AWAY from you. ?:oD

> - Original Message -

> 
> Ayah, I use 3M 77 also, but it's nasty stuff, use a throwaway breathing mask 
> when you use it; and expect everything in the area (including the hairs on 
> the back of your hands (and forearms, if you are wearing a short-sleeved 
> shirt) to feel a little sticky for a while until the vapor residue grabs onto 
> all the dust from sanding. ;-) 
> 
> Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS #1117 TD/CorvAir 
> 65 Franklin Street 
> Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 

KR> Sanding blocks

[Jeff Scott]

I should have added that using something like spray on headliner adhesive or 3M 
77 spray on adhesive works really well to glue the paper to the PVC or ABS pipe.

> - Original Message -
> From: Jeff Scott
> Sent: 04/26/14 09:50 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Sanding blocks
> 
> Paul, I would suggest a section of 4" or 6" PVC pipe. ?It's stiff enough that 
> it won't bend and the edges of the sandpaper will be glued up away from the 
> surface so they can't dig in if it comes loose.
> 
> -Jeff Scott
> White Plains Beach, HI (for this week)
> 

KR> Sanding Blocks

[PPaulVsk at aol.com]

Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal  
stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the sandpaper on 
 the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when the 
edges  peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of sanding 
and I figure  there's a LOT of experience out there with sanding.  I could 
definitely use  some suggestions. 
Thanks


Paul  Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705

KR> Sanding Blocks

[PPaulVsk at aol.com]

Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal  
stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the sandpaper on 
 the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when the 
edges  peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of sanding 
and I figure  there's a LOT of experience out there with sanding.  I could 
definitely use  some suggestions. 
Thanks


Paul  Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705

KR> Sanding blocks

[Paul Visk]

Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal 
stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the sandpaper on 
the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold and when the edges 
peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a lot of sanding and I 
figure there's a LOT of experience out there with sanding. ?I could definitely 
use some suggestions.?
Thanks

Paul Visk
Belleville, Il
618-406-4705

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

KR> sanding end grain

[Mark Langford]

Paul Visk wrote:

>Would sanding burn marks affect the bond with T88 epoxy?

End grain joints are the weakest, so anything you can do to improve on this
would be good.  I read an epoxy comparison done in Wood or Fine Homebuilding
magazine a few years back, and if I remember correctly, their advice was to
use it as cut off by the saw, rather than "polishing" the ends with a
sander.  If you need to sand the angle to perfection, I'd at least use some
coarse sandpaper.  I used a lot of 50 grit building N56ML, and some floor
sanding belts that were something like 18 grit that looked like small gravel
stuck to the paper for serious wood removal.   It makes for quick work, and
they remove a lot of wood during their long life.

Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
ML at N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com  

KR> sanding end grain

[Comcast]

FAA Advisory Circular 43-13-1B section 1.6 goes into the official process to 
prepping glue joints.

www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/43.13-1B.pdf

Also great info on knots, mineral streaking, pitch pockets and other wood 
defects. Great source.

Dan Prichard
Portland, Or.



> On Jan 20, 2014, at 5:03 AM, "Mark Langford"  wrote:
> 
> Paul Visk wrote:
> 
>> Would sanding burn marks affect the bond with T88 epoxy?
> 
> End grain joints are the weakest, so anything you can do to improve on this
> would be good.  I read an epoxy comparison done in Wood or Fine Homebuilding
> magazine a few years back, and if I remember correctly, their advice was to
> use it as cut off by the saw, rather than "polishing" the ends with a
> sander.  If you need to sand the angle to perfection, I'd at least use some
> coarse sandpaper.  I used a lot of 50 grit building N56ML, and some floor
> sanding belts that were something like 18 grit that looked like small gravel
> stuck to the paper for serious wood removal.   It makes for quick work, and
> they remove a lot of wood during their long life.
> 
> Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
> ML at N56ML.com
> www.N56ML.com  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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KR> Sanding-Grooved Micro Examples

[Edward Spyker]

http://www.loginet.nl/europa/eurofini.htm

http://spang-air.de/e/Schleifen_-_gross.jpg


Edward Spyker
jesj69 at yahoo dot com

KR> Sanding,

[Edward Spyker]

This hyperlink is the second best sanding/finishing article I have come across. 
http://curedcomposites.com/finish.html
?
The link I saved for?the best method?is now dead, but?it advised applying?a 
first thick coat of micro with a 1/4 or 3/8 slotted trowel.
It said that the due to the valleys in the micro, that with coarse paper on a 
long, about 4+ feet, flat sanding block, one could sand almost all of the micro 
off in just?minutes, leaving grooved micro only in the low spots.
This method was said to?quickly identify the low spots and make final filling a 
piece of cake. prety much as described in the above link.
?
Edward Spyker
jesj69 at yahoo dot com

KR> Sanding Vinyl Ester Layup - Or 'What is PVA'

[Mark Langford]

Get PVA at http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php  .  I also 
searched Wicks' site because I KNOW they have it, but after about a minute 
of search through everything from tailwheels to foam, I gave up and found it 
instantly at AS  Basically it's used as mold release agent.  Wax the mold 
with mold release wax, then spray a very light dusty coat of PVA (if you put 
it on wet it'll just bead up on the waxed surface), and then once that dry 
coat dries, you can put on a wetter coat or two to form the film.  Then 
layup your cowling or whatever, let it cure, and the PVA will pop apart (or 
will dissolve if exposed to water).  Never heard of using it for sanding 
purposes, but if Lee says it works, it probably does...

Mark Langford
n5...@hiwaay.net
website www.n56ml.com 

KR> Sanding Vinyl Ester Layup - Or 'What is PVA'

[Dan Heath]

PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

KR> Sanding Vinyl Ester Layup

[phillip matheson]

the final layer of a Vinyl Ester Resin lay-up,

YES, Dan it is a WAX, but then you have a problem if you need to add more 
glass as it MAY not stick with a lot of sanding.

Not sure of the name off hand???


Phil Matheson
SAAA Ch 37
http://www.philskr2.50megs.com/
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Heath" <da...@windstream.net>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 10:26 AM
Subject: KR> Sanding Vinyl Ester Layup


I believe that I read somewhere that there is a product that can be added to
the final layer of a Vinyl Ester Resin lay-up, that will make it easy to
sand.  Does anyone know what it is and where I can get it?



Daniel R. Heath

da...@windstream.net

See N64KR at  <http://krbuilder.org/> http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics

See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN







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KR> Sanding Vinyl Ester Layup

[Dan Heath]

I believe that I read somewhere that there is a product that can be added to
the final layer of a Vinyl Ester Resin lay-up, that will make it easy to
sand.  Does anyone know what it is and where I can get it?



Daniel R. Heath

da...@windstream.net

See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 

See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN

KR> sanding joints?

[Russ Kendall]

Hi everyone, I've searched the archives on the topic of roughing up/preping 
joints prior to glueing with T-88. I recieved some input that this practice was 
not recommended. I used resin bond sandpaper to roughen the joints. 
   Any new feelings on this? I glued up a couple of test joints, and posted on 
my website.
http://home.bendbroadband.com/russkr2s


Russ

KR> sanding joints?

[Larry Flesner]

At 12:26 PM 3/27/2007, you wrote:
>Hi everyone, I've searched the archives on the topic of roughing 
>up/preping joints prior to glueing with T-88.
>Russ
+

I used FPL-16A epoxy for all my wood work.  I don't know if T-88 will absorb
in to the wood the same or not.  I cut all my gussets with a fine blade
on my radial arm saw.  I "fine tuned" them on a stationary disk sander
and glued them in place.   270 hours and no problems.

building tip:  To get the angles for the gussets I used two hacksaw blades.
Use an inch or two of each end with the holes.  Rivet them together and
tap the rivet flat with a hammer to a tension that will hold an angle but
still be movable.  I used one red and one black blade for identification.
Insert the blade into the gusset location so the two side are flush with
the wood.  You will have two angles to measure and set a disk sander.
Use the blades to transfer the angles to the disk sander.  You don't
care what the angles are, you just need to duplicate them.  Make sure
you place the gusset back in it's location when finished or otherwise
identify their location for later gluing .  Seldom will you have two gussets
with the same shape.

As always

Larry Flesner

KR> sanding joints?

[Nick Brennan]

This also brings up a question I'm havingI was a bit sloppy with the 
T-88 after gluing, and I'm wondering how y'all get rid of the excess glue 
once it has dried in place.  Should I sand it?  If so, what grit is best?

Nick Brennan
nickdbren...@comcast.net

- Original Message - 
From: "Russ Kendall" <rkend...@bendbroadband.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: KR> sanding joints?


> Hi everyone, I've searched the archives on the topic of roughing 
> up/preping joints prior to glueing with T-88. I recieved some input that 
> this practice was not recommended. I used resin bond sandpaper to roughen 
> the joints.
>   Any new feelings on this? I glued up a couple of test joints, and posted 
> on my website.
> http://home.bendbroadband.com/russkr2s
>
>
> Russ
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> sanding joints?

[Myron (Dan) Freeman]

Hi Nick;

I've found that a Dremel tool with the proper shaped cutter tip works well 
if your carefull, then finsih off with a sanding block with 60 or 80 grit 
paper untill your satisfied.

Regards
Myron (Dan) Freeman
Indpls, Ind. 46203 USA. Home of the
2007 World Champion Indpls, Colt's
mfreem...@indy.rr.com
Posted - Tuesday, 03/27/07 2:50 pm 

KR> sanding joints?

[bob pearce]

Sanding jointsI have been building wooden
airplanes for over 40 years and using epoxy, including
T88 for the last 30 and since begining the epoxy I
have never sanded a joint. My joints are usually
planed now but for years used a planer blade in my
saw. Both with excellent results. I would suggest that
sanding, unless all the dust is removed actually
contaminates a joint. I might add that besides repairs
and restorations I have built 7 airplanes, 2 of which
were of my own design...bob pearce
--- Russ Kendall  wrote:

> Hi everyone, I've searched the archives on the topic
> of roughing up/preping joints prior to glueing with
> T-88. I recieved some input that this practice was
> not recommended. I used resin bond sandpaper to
> roughen the joints. 
>Any new feelings on this? I glued up a couple of
> test joints, and posted on my website.
> http://home.bendbroadband.com/russkr2s
> 
> 
> Russ
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 






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KR> sanding joints?

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

Sanding lets dust build up in the pores of the wood and 
lessens glue penetration, Virg

On Tue, 27 Mar 2007 10:26:51 -0800 "Russ Kendall"
 writes:
> Hi everyone, I've searched the archives on the topic of roughing 
> up/preping joints prior to glueing with T-88. I recieved some input 
> that this practice was not recommended. I used resin bond sandpaper 
> to roughen the joints. 
>Any new feelings on this? I glued up a couple of test joints, and 
> posted on my website.
> http://home.bendbroadband.com/russkr2s
> 
> 
> Russ
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> sanding joints?

[Ed Janssen]

Most of us seem to accept this as gospel, but it seems to me that what
little sanding "dust" is present, after brushing it off or vacuuming, should
easily be soaked up by the T-88 and the resultant mixture would then be
similar to a very light form of flox which is considered to be structural.
Doesn't seem that the dust would effectively plug up the pores of the wood
to the extent that the T-88 wouldn't eventually and successfully soak in to
the wood.  I can see where the accepted idea of roughing up the wood surface
with coarse sandpaper is a good move because it increases the surface area
for gluing.  Has anyone made up some test pieces to prove or disprove?

Ed Janssen




> Sanding lets dust build up in the pores of the wood and
> lessens glue penetration, Virg

KR> Sanding joints

[hart...@charter.net]

I don't think you will find technical data from glue manufacturers that 
recommends "roughing up" a surface to be glued.  A smooth freshly planed or 
sawn surface is best.  Roughing increases the thickness of the glue line and 
that is generally not a good idea.  Lightly scuffing plywood with sandpaper to 
remove manufacturing residue is the exception.  Epoxies tend to forgive us for 
small transgressions, but why not go with the adhesive manufacturer's 
recommendations?  I wouldn't worry about the sanding of end grain.  End grain 
joints don't have much structural integrity anyway.  Gussets and/or blocks 
secure those joints.
Rich Hartwig
Waunakee WI


>I can see where the accepted idea of roughing up the wood surface
> with coarse sandpaper is a good move because it increases the surface area
> for gluing. 

KR> sanding joints?

[Cláudio Holanda]

Dear Ed:

Roughing up the wood surface isn't a good practice. Coarse grain sandpaper 
will "fray" the wood fibers and will weaken your surfaces to be glued. The 
best is  obtain a surface as smooth as possible using fine grain sandpaper 
or a plane. Clean the surfaces by means of a piece of cloth  using thiner, 
absolute alcohol  or  nails varnish remover. After dry (only a few minutes), 
put the resin trying to do a good impregnation so as the resin can penetrate 
the surfaces. After that put some excess of resin and clamp.

Regards,
Cláudio Holanda
clau...@itaroca.com.br

--
- Original Message - 
From: "Ed Janssen" <ejans...@chipsnet.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: KR> sanding joints?


> Most of us seem to accept this as gospel, but it seems to me that what
> little sanding "dust" is present, after brushing it off or vacuuming, 
> should
> easily be soaked up by the T-88 and the resultant mixture would then be
> similar to a very light form of flox which is considered to be structural.
> Doesn't seem that the dust would effectively plug up the pores of the wood
> to the extent that the T-88 wouldn't eventually and successfully soak in 
> to
> the wood.  I can see where the accepted idea of roughing up the wood 
> surface
> with coarse sandpaper is a good move because it increases the surface area
> for gluing.  Has anyone made up some test pieces to prove or disprove?
>
> Ed Janssen
>
>
>
>
>> Sanding lets dust build up in the pores of the wood and
>> lessens glue penetration, Virg
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> 

KR> SANDING ICE!!

[AVLEC]

Guys, I have heard of carb ice before but tonight I experienced sanding ice.
I recently bought a pneumatic dual piston straight line sander which I was
using tonight on a horizontal stabilizer. After a while it started to lose
power and proceeded to spit out what looked like a little stone from it's
exhaust. I was still standing wondering how such a small stone could have
got into the air line when I noticed it was melting!
So guys, watch out for that sanding ice. Air temp was 24deg C and relative
humidity 65%.
By the way guys this thing saves plenty hours of manual sanding and was
cheap as well.
Regards
Dene Collett
KR2SRT builder
South africa
Whisper assembler
See: www.whisperaircraft.com
mailto: av...@telkomsa.net

KR> SANDING ICE!!

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

Put a filter in line with the air line, Virg

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 22:02:48 +0200 "AVLEC"  writes:
> Guys, I have heard of carb ice before but tonight I experienced 
> sanding ice.
> I recently bought a pneumatic dual piston straight line sander which 
> I was
> using tonight on a horizontal stabilizer. After a while it started 
> to lose
> power and proceeded to spit out what looked like a little stone from 
> it's
> exhaust. I was still standing wondering how such a small stone could 
> have
> got into the air line when I noticed it was melting!
> So guys, watch out for that sanding ice. Air temp was 24deg C and 
> relative
> humidity 65%.
> By the way guys this thing saves plenty hours of manual sanding and 
> was
> cheap as well.
> Regards
> Dene Collett
> KR2SRT builder
> South africa
> Whisper assembler
> See: www.whisperaircraft.com
> mailto: av...@telkomsa.net
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

If the sides were vertical, sanding would much less, Virg

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:13:19 -0400 "jg7...@mindspring.com"
 writes:
>  I thought that it would only take a few hours of sanding the 
> fuselage bottom to fit the skin but it looks like it may take a 
> week. My god that is a lot of sanding! Maybe I am just being to much 
> of a perfectionist , my wife says I am anal but I just want to build 
> the best plane I can.
> 
> 
> John Godwin
> jg7...@mindspring.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 


Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl

KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING

[James Ferris]

How do you figure  that? If the sides vertical that meansthat the bottom
is wider and therefore more area to sand.
Jim 
On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 16:36:25 -0400 VIRGIL N SALISBURY 
writes:
> If the sides were vertical, sanding would much less, Virg
> 
> On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:13:19 -0400 "jg7...@mindspring.com"
>  writes:
> >  I thought that it would only take a few hours of sanding the 
> > fuselage bottom to fit the skin but it looks like it may take a 
> > week. My god that is a lot of sanding! Maybe I am just being to 
> much 
> > of a perfectionist , my wife says I am anal but I just want to 
> build 
> > the best plane I can.
> > 
> > 
> > John Godwin
> > jg7...@mindspring.com
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at 
> > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
> www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
> Miami ,Fl
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING

[Mark Jones]

I think he was meaning that the frame would take less sanding since the
surfaces would all be near parallel to the skin surface.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my NEW
KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at www.flykr2s.com



- Original Message - 
From: "James Ferris" <mij...@juno.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING


> How do you figure  that? If the sides vertical that meansthat the bottom
> is wider and therefore more area to sand.
> Jim
> On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 16:36:25 -0400 VIRGIL N SALISBURY <virg...@juno.com>
> writes:
> > If the sides were vertical, sanding would much less, Virg
> >
> > On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:13:19 -0400 "jg7...@mindspring.com"
> > <jg7...@mindspring.com> writes:
> > >  I thought that it would only take a few hours of sanding the
> > > fuselage bottom to fit the skin but it looks like it may take a
> > > week. My god that is a lot of sanding! Maybe I am just being to
> > much
> > > of a perfectionist , my wife says I am anal but I just want to
> > build
> > > the best plane I can.
> > >
> > >
> > > John Godwin
> > > jg7...@mindspring.com
> > > ___
> > > Search the KRnet Archives at
> > > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
> > krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
> > www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
> > Miami ,Fl
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at
> > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

If the sides were tapered in at the bottom, there is so much 
more sanding to get the bottom longerons flat across the bottom
( crosswise ) that you need to do. Go figure, Virg

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 20:40:56 -0400 James Ferris  writes:
> How do you figure  that? If the sides vertical that meansthat the 
> bottom
> is wider and therefore more area to sand.
> Jim 
> On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 16:36:25 -0400 VIRGIL N SALISBURY 
> 
> writes:
> > If the sides were vertical, sanding would much less, Virg
> > 
> > On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:13:19 -0400 "jg7...@mindspring.com"
> >  writes:
> > >  I thought that it would only take a few hours of sanding the 
> > > fuselage bottom to fit the skin but it looks like it may take a 
> 
> > > week. My god that is a lot of sanding! Maybe I am just being to 
> 
> > much 
> > > of a perfectionist , my wife says I am anal but I just want to 
> > build 
> > > the best plane I can.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > John Godwin
> > > jg7...@mindspring.com
> > > ___
> > > Search the KRnet Archives at 
> > > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
> > krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
> > www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
> > Miami ,Fl
> > 
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at 
> > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
> krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > 
> > 
>  
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 


Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl

KR> SANDING

[Richard A Hartwig]

John,
You should be planing the longerons, not sanding them.  Sanding should be
used to smooth out roughness in wood, planing is to remove wood and give
a flat (in most cases) surface.  Also, a sanded surface does not give you
an optimal gluing surface.
Dick Hartwig
rhartwi...@juno.com

KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING

[Chris Johnston]

Find a flat board about 4 ft wide, glue on some 60 grit I think it was 
that I used, may have been finer, aluminium oxide paper, glue a vertical 
piece on the opposite side to keep your board flat and true, let dry and 
sand the whole width of the fuse, from front to back, one section at a time, 
should take no more than three hours to do the whole fuse, that includes 
coffee brakes. Highly rcommended to wear a mask, lots of spruce dust which 
really dries the lungs and nose out. A rounded edge on the front and back 
sides of the board  stops any embarrasing catches on the edge of cross 
members and allows your board to slide easily over buildups of glue and any 
slightly misaligned cross members.
When it comes to gluing on the ply, the best thing I found was to 
position the sheet with two staples, and weigh down the sheet with house 
bricks, position the bricks so that when you get  a nice even bead of glue 
squishing out along the join/seam, then the brick is in the right place with 
the right amount of pressure, my staples were probably too small to do a 
good job, but the bricks work pretty good, good staples would probably work 
even better. After the glue starts to go tacky, stick on some rubber gloves 
and run your finger around the seam to give the glue a nice rounded fillet. 
The trick to a good glue job seems to be to have a perfectly flat and flush 
surface to glue your ply too.


Chris Johnston

North Richmond

NSW Australia

- Original Message - 
From: "VIRGIL N SALISBURY" <virg...@juno.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING


>If the sides were tapered in at the bottom, there is so much
> more sanding to get the bottom longerons flat across the bottom
> ( crosswise ) that you need to do. Go figure, Virg
>
> On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 20:40:56 -0400 James Ferris <mij...@juno.com> writes:
>> How do you figure  that? If the sides vertical that meansthat the
>> bottom
>> is wider and therefore more area to sand.
>> Jim
>> On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 16:36:25 -0400 VIRGIL N SALISBURY
>> <virg...@juno.com>
>> writes:
>> > If the sides were vertical, sanding would much less, Virg
>> >
>> > On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:13:19 -0400 "jg7...@mindspring.com"
>> > <jg7...@mindspring.com> writes:
>> > >  I thought that it would only take a few hours of sanding the
>> > > fuselage bottom to fit the skin but it looks like it may take a
>>
>> > > week. My god that is a lot of sanding! Maybe I am just being to
>>
>> > much
>> > > of a perfectionist , my wife says I am anal but I just want to
>> > build
>> > > the best plane I can.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > John Godwin
>> > > jg7...@mindspring.com
>> > > ___
>> > > Search the KRnet Archives at
>> > > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
>> > krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
>> > www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
>> > Miami ,Fl
>> >
>> > ___
>> > Search the KRnet Archives at
>> > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
>> krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at
>> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>>
>
>
> Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
> www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
> Miami ,Fl
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 

KR> SANDING

[jg7...@mindspring.com]

Thanks for the advice, I kind of figured that out on my own last night.
I got a new block plane and between that and a sanding block I got most of
the bottom done within 45 minutes. Thanks to all the people on the KRnet
for there help this is one great group of people.

> [Original Message]
> From: Richard A Hartwig <rhartwi...@juno.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Date: 6/27/2006 8:01:40 AM
> Subject: KR> SANDING
>
> John,
> You should be planing the longerons, not sanding them.  Sanding should be
> used to smooth out roughness in wood, planing is to remove wood and give
> a flat (in most cases) surface.  Also, a sanded surface does not give you
> an optimal gluing surface.
> Dick Hartwig
> rhartwi...@juno.com
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> SANDING

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

With vertical sides, only sanding is necessary, Virg

On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 06:57:37 -0500 Richard A Hartwig
 writes:
> John,
> You should be planing the longerons, not sanding them.  Sanding 
> should be
> used to smooth out roughness in wood, planing is to remove wood and 
> give
> a flat (in most cases) surface.  Also, a sanded surface does not 
> give you
> an optimal gluing surface.
> Dick Hartwig
> rhartwi...@juno.com
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 


Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl

KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING

[jg7...@mindspring.com]

 I thought that it would only take a few hours of sanding the fuselage bottom 
to fit the skin but it looks like it may take a week. My god that is a lot of 
sanding! Maybe I am just being to much of a perfectionist , my wife says I am 
anal but I just want to build the best plane I can.


John Godwin
jg7...@mindspring.com

KR> SANDING SANDING SANDING

[Pat Driscoll]

John, Ask your wife if she would like to fly in an airplane that "looks good 
enough".
Pat Driscoll
Saint Paul, MN 
patric...@usfamily.net
http://www.freewebs.com/patrick1936/
LIFE MAY NOT BE THE PARTY WE HOPED FOR
BUT WHILE WE ARE HERE WE MIGHT AS WELL DANCE!"






--- http://USFamily.Net/dialup.html - $8.25/mo! -- 
http://www.usfamily.net/dsl.html - $19.99/mo! ---

KR> Sanding seminar

[Frank Ross]

Just how exactly are you holding that sandpaper?
  ;]
  Frank

wcraw...@cmhc-schl.gc.ca wrote:
  Ron, you are correct, in my haste to get the message out so quickly I 
spelled the product wrong, it is in fact "ARMORALL", no "U" and two LL's
Insofar as Golf balls are concerned, well I don't fly golf balls, but the 
Armorall cleans up the wing and the little bird fly's faster by the 
way I am not about to take sand paper to paint I paid $200 a gal for. Just 
don't have the balls to do it. 


-
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.

KR> Sanding Sanding

[Dan Heath]

Oh woe is me, sanding sanding, while you guys are out punching holes in that
beautiful sky. I tell myself, at least it is a beautiful day, buy why, why
am I doing this. I know that I can't get the WannaBee ready for the
Gathering and here I am, sanding sanding. 

Then it hit me, the sanding song,... that's it,  if I were not sanding, how
could I really sing it with feeling. Oh, sure, you guys will be singing, but
will you really have any feeling for the song. After all, it has been so
long since you rubbed all the skin off your finger tips and wore your arms
out, sanding sanding. You think you will have real feeling for the song, but
I have sanding in my blood,. or is that blood in my sanding.

See you in 3 days. 

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 

There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
has expired.

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

KR> Sanding Sanding

[Mark Jones]

Oh woe for those who labor. As I have labored for the last three days.
Scraping, scraping and more scraping. Heck, I am still scraping and
painting, painting and still more painting. The only difference is that I am
doing my house, not the KR. I could hardly get out of bed this morning as I
was so sore. I am worried that I will not be able to climb in and out of
my KR to get to the Gathering. Maybe if I rig up some kind of hoist to lift
me in and out. I always thought Labor Day weekend was for rest and
relaxation. Guess we have learned different this year. God willing, I will
see you Thursday.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj


- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 12:57 PM
Subject: KR> Sanding Sanding


> Oh woe is me, sanding sanding, while you guys are out punching holes in
that
> beautiful sky. I tell myself, at least it is a beautiful day, buy why, why
> am I doing this. I know that I can't get the WannaBee ready for the
> Gathering and here I am, sanding sanding.
>
> Then it hit me, the sanding song,... that's it,  if I were not sanding,
how
> could I really sing it with feeling. Oh, sure, you guys will be singing,
but
> will you really have any feeling for the song. After all, it has been so
> long since you rubbed all the skin off your finger tips and wore your arms
> out, sanding sanding. You think you will have real feeling for the song,
but
> I have sanding in my blood,. or is that blood in my sanding.
>
> See you in 3 days.
>
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering
>
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
>
> There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for
building
> has expired.
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Sanding Sanding

[Brian Kraut]

Looks like you will have to to be front and center in front of the
microphone this year.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Dan Heath
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 1:58 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Sanding Sanding


Oh woe is me, sanding sanding, while you guys are out punching holes in that
beautiful sky. I tell myself, at least it is a beautiful day, buy why, why
am I doing this. I know that I can't get the WannaBee ready for the
Gathering and here I am, sanding sanding.

Then it hit me, the sanding song,... that's it,  if I were not sanding, how
could I really sing it with feeling. Oh, sure, you guys will be singing, but
will you really have any feeling for the song. After all, it has been so
long since you rubbed all the skin off your finger tips and wore your arms
out, sanding sanding. You think you will have real feeling for the song, but
I have sanding in my blood,. or is that blood in my sanding.

See you in 3 days.

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics

There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
has expired.

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC


___
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to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Sanding and painting the WAFs

[Doug Rupert]

Personally speaking Serge I would not sand them as the sanding leaves tiny
scratches that are potential stress fracture points. Use chemical paint
remover and thoroughly rinse with mineral spirits before a final washing
with soap and water. Heating could also ruin the strength properties of the
steel unless one knows exactly what they are doing. My preference would be
to have them powdercoated and forget about corrosion for the life of the
bird.
Doug Rupert
Simcoe Ontario



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KR> Sanding and painting the WAFs

[Mark Langford]

I can tell you for sure that zinc chromate will flake right off the first
time the wings are installed.  Mine used to be zinc chromated, but it's hard
to tell that now!  Best thing is to have them plated somehow, like RR does.
Hydrogen embrittlement may be a concern though, so check for compatibilty
with 4130 first.  Here's something I found in a quick search of the web:

"One comment is by a guy who overdrilled a spar bolt hole, and then did a
D-I-Y plating job on the bolt to bring it back up to size:
>Here's what worked for me:  I contacted Caswell Plating
(www.caswellplating.com) and bought an 8oz. bottle of their CopyChrome
nickel plating solution.  Following their directions, I plated the bolt up
to 0.377" then baked it at 400° F for 4 hours to take care of any hydrogen
embrittlement.  It worked great.  I also plated some 4130 scraps and was
pleased with their appearance.   The plating looked like it should be pretty
durable.  I even soaked a 4130 piece in saltwater overnight and saw no
effect.   It's not quite chrome, but it
looks pretty good.  "

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
--

KR> Sanding and painting the WAFs

[Brian Kraut]

I did a lot of research a while back on cadmium plating 4130.  A very
knowledegable mil spec plater told me that weather you need to bake them to
relieve hydrogen embrittlement or not depends on the hardness of the steel.
At the standard hardness of 4130 normalized steel he said it most definitely
did need to be baked after plating.  He told me how much and I believe it
was somewhere around 400 degrees for six hours(don't take this as accurate).

Anyway, the point of this is do not have your local Harley chrome plater
that knows nothing about plating high stress aircraft parts plate your
attach fittings.  You can find a good mil spec plating shop that can do it
correctly for probably the same price.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of
Mark Langford
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 3:37 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Sanding and painting the WAFs


I can tell you for sure that zinc chromate will flake right off the first
time the wings are installed.  Mine used to be zinc chromated, but it's hard
to tell that now!  Best thing is to have them plated somehow, like RR does.
Hydrogen embrittlement may be a concern though, so check for compatibilty
with 4130 first.  Here's something I found in a quick search of the web:

"One comment is by a guy who overdrilled a spar bolt hole, and then did a
D-I-Y plating job on the bolt to bring it back up to size:
>Here's what worked for me:  I contacted Caswell Plating
(www.caswellplating.com) and bought an 8oz. bottle of their CopyChrome
nickel plating solution.  Following their directions, I plated the bolt up
to 0.377" then baked it at 400° F for 4 hours to take care of any hydrogen
embrittlement.  It worked great.  I also plated some 4130 scraps and was
pleased with their appearance.   The plating looked like it should be pretty
durable.  I even soaked a 4130 piece in saltwater overnight and saw no
effect.   It's not quite chrome, but it
looks pretty good.  "

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
--

KR> kr sanding song

[Jerry Morris]

ok can someone share the kr sanding song with me, having never been to a 
kr event.


jerry
kr1s(boat)

KR> Sanding and painting the WAFs

[Serge VIDAL]

I am now ready to repaint my WAFs, but I cannot find any tips in either 
Tony Bingelis's books, or the AC 4313 about finishing steel parts like the 
WAFs.  I intend to coat them with zinc chromate primer.

Questions:

1) Which grit should I use for final sanding?

2) What is the best way to degrease? Should I dip the part in degreaser, 
or rub it with a cloth soaked in degreaser, or what?

3) Should I heat the part before I paint?

4) Should I heat the part while the paint dries?

Should I apply one coat, or several?

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France

KR> Sanding

[Wood, Sidney M.]

The industrial vacuum cleaner and exhaust fan are going full blast in my shop, 
but there is still a white haze of dust on everything in my shop from the UV 
Smooth Prime.
I still hate sanding!  Now, when was I supposed to learn to love this?
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.com

KR> Sanding

[larry flesner]

>I still hate sanding!  Now, when was I supposed to learn to love this?
>Sid Wood


Just keep reminding yourself that you're coming down the home stretch !!!

Building an airplane must be similar to giving birth to a baby.  Once you
start flying it you totally forget all the pains of building. !

Larry Flesner

KR> Sanding

[William Jeffries]

When you get airborne.  You might try a water filter
dust collector like I use for drywall sanding.  I
purchased it at Homedepot and it's called an Aquaclean
dust collector.  I use a DeWalt DW412 palm sander on
it with the vacuum attachment.  You have to modify you
collector hose a bit to make it work, however it does
make short work of sanding drywall.  It would work the
same with the fiberglass dust.  Now get back to the
labor of love;)

Bill Jeffries


> I still hate sanding!  Now, when was I supposed to
> learn to love this?




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KR> Sanding

[Orma]

"Building an airplane must be similar to giving birth to a baby.  Once you 
start flying it you totally forget all the pains of building. !"


Hay Larry
It might be true, but don't tell that to your wife.

Orma 

KR> Sanding

[Joseph H. Horton]

> The industrial vacuum cleaner and exhaust fan are going full blast in 
> my shop, but there is still a white haze of dust on everything in my 
> shop from the UV Smooth Prime.
> I still hate sanding!  Now, when was I supposed to learn to love 
> this?
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD USA
> sidney.w...@titan.com
Sid,
I'm pretty sure it is right after you finish painting and have a
great finish. But that is not from experience, mine was scheduled for the
paint shop over a month ago. I got it out in the sun light one day and
took it right back in and started over. As for the shop I open the over
head door once a week and use the air hose to blow the dust out on to the
neighbors wash ;-)
Joe Horton
joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

KR> Sanding tip

[Scott Cable]

Netters,
I know how everyone just LOVES to sand on their KR's, so much in fact a song is 
sung about it at pretty much every gathering!  Well maybe this will help...
Are you tired of searching through the stacks of different grades of sandpaper? 
 To organize my "stack" I bought one of those divided portable file holders for 
a couple of bucks at WalMart.
I place the various grades into their own slot, and if you're as anal as I am, 
I even labeled the tabs for which grade and wet or dry.  I also found that it's 
convenient to store grinding discs and scotch-brite into also.  All my 
sandpaper in one place in the shop, it's a thing of beauty.


Scott Cable
KR-2S # 735
Wright City, MO
s2cab...@yahoo.com
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

More - Re: KR> Sanding tip

[Ed Janssen]

I did a similar thing, but rather bought one of those light plastic
stand-alone units (maybe 6 or 8 in. deep) that accept hanging file folders.
The file folders keep them nice and flat and the tabs on the folders make
for easy selection.

For cutting sandpaper - an old used hacksaw blade mounted on the skirt of my
work table makes a neat cutting tool for the paper.  When attaching the
hacksaw blade (I used screws), place a thin washer between the backside of
the blade and the bench in order to provide room to slip the sandpaper
behind it.

Ed

Ed Janssen
mailto:ejans...@chipsnet.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Scott Cable" <s2cab...@yahoo.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 6:56 PM
Subject: KR> Sanding tip


> Netters,
> I know how everyone just LOVES to sand on their KR's, so much in fact a
song is sung about it at pretty much every gathering!  Well maybe this will
help...

KR> Sanding wing fairing

[Brian Kraut]

Sound great.  Thanks.  I am thnking that two half circle plywood disks with
sheet metal wrapped around them would be east to make.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Steven Phillabaum
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 8:48 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Sanding wing fairing


Hello Brian,
Here is one way. I used something like this for boat repairs only is was on
a smaller scale. I'll try to put it in words.
Basically its a sanding pole but tapered. You can make it out of cardboard.
or, a 3" template for one end and a 12" template for the other. Install some
foam, sand, then glass. When cured stick some sandpaper on it. When you sand
only use short bursts and slowly work from small radius to the large. OR you
will have to just eyeball the fairing.

Steven Phillabaum
Auburn, Alabama
>
> From: "Brian Kraut" >
 I need to sand a wing root fairing foam block with about a 3" radius for
> most of the length, then go to about a 12" radius aft of the wing (this
will



___
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to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Sanding wing fairing

[Brian Kraut]

I need to sand a wing root fairing foam block with about a 3" radius for
most of the length, then go to about a 12" radius aft of the wing (this will
be a Hughes Racer looking fairing).  The front half before the radius
changes will be easy enough to do with a coffee can or something, but I
don't know any good way to do the changing radius on the aft side.  Anyone
have any suggestions or do I just have to eyeball it and maybe use some
cardboard templates?

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

KR> Sanding wing fairing

[Steven Phillabaum]

Hello Brian,
Here is one way. I used something like this for boat repairs only is was on a 
smaller scale. I'll try to put it in words.
Basically its a sanding pole but tapered. You can make it out of cardboard. or, 
a 3" template for one end and a 12" template for the other. Install some foam, 
sand, then glass. When cured stick some sandpaper on it. When you sand only use 
short bursts and slowly work from small radius to the large. OR you will have 
to just eyeball the fairing.

Steven Phillabaum
Auburn, Alabama
> 
> From: "Brian Kraut" >
 I need to sand a wing root fairing foam block with about a 3" radius for
> most of the length, then go to about a 12" radius aft of the wing (this will

KR> Sanding wing fairing

[Mike Turner]

Brian I would try one of those traffic cones. just glue some sandpaper around 
it and test it on a sample piece of foam

 Mike Turner Jackson, Mo.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brian Kraut<mailto:brian.kr...@engalt.com> 
  To: KRnet<mailto:kr...@mylist.net> 
  Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2005 10:27 PM
  Subject: KR> Sanding wing fairing


  I need to sand a wing root fairing foam block with about a 3" radius for
  most of the length, then go to about a 12" radius aft of the wing (this will
  be a Hughes Racer looking fairing).  The front half before the radius
  changes will be easy enough to do with a coffee can or something, but I
  don't know any good way to do the changing radius on the aft side.  Anyone
  have any suggestions or do I just have to eyeball it and maybe use some
  cardboard templates?

  Brian Kraut
  Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
  www.engalt.com<http://www.engalt.com/>


  ___
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http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp<http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp>
  to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
krnet-le...@mylist.net<mailto:krnet-le...@mylist.net>
  please see other KRnet info at 
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KR> Sanding before glueing ??

[Phillip Matheson]

I ran a Wire brush along my spars and roughed them up, ( Lightly) then blew
them off. ( after reading about this some time back)

Phillip Matheson
mathe...@dodo.com.au
Australia
VH PKR
See our engines  and kits at.
http://www.vw-engines.com/
http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/
See my KR at Mark Jones web
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/pmkr2.html

KR> Sanding Wings

[Mark Jones]

I have sweated about a gallon so far today sanding my left wing foam to get it 
ready for glassing which I hope to do this weekend. I had and I said had a goal 
of final inspection by July 1st...hahahhahhahhahhah. I am about to die laughing 
over that one. BUTI will fly to the gathering cause I will not let Langford 
take all the awards home.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA 
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at   
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html

KR> Sanding

[Mike Turner]

The net is so quiet and it's Friday, so I thought I'd let you all know what I'm 
doing.  Sanding, sanding, sanding   and sanding.   Mike Turner





Spin the prop, light the fire, dance among the starsN428CM

KR> Sanding

[Ross Evans]

   I am sick of sanding sanding sanding!!!
   >From: "Mike Turner" <aviato...@msn.com>
   >Reply-To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
   >To: "krnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
   >Subject: KR> Sanding
   >Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 08:50:33 -0500
   >
   >The net is so quiet and it's Friday, so I thought I'd let you all
   know what I'm doing.  Sanding, sanding, sanding   and sanding.   Mike
   Turner
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >Spin the prop, light the fire, dance among the
   starsN428CM
   >___
   >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
   >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 _

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References

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KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Timothy Bellville]

Thanks for all the info guys, but I get the impression that I've led you
astray about the finish on my bird, It was not about pinholes as much as it
was about wavyness of the layups, like when you look down the beam of the
wings there is some wavy countoures to it, they were all hand layed up
panels and I will never be able to match the finish of a vaccuum bag part.
  And I have used that bondo spot puddy for years, and it does work
great,but needs to be primed over. I have saved about 1/2 gal of primer for
this.
Thanks again guys.
Now please when you see her at a fly in or airshow don't judge her too
harsly on the finish,but be glad that there is another added to the flying
ranks.
Tim
KR2 N7038V











- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Stone" <rsto...@hot.rr.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it


> Tim,
> You can get a perfect finish with very little trouble and NO pin
holes.
> You are now at the stage where you need to do the following. Just get a
tube
> of bondo (it comes like a tube of tooth paste).  Use your index finger and
> go over the entire aircraft and wipe a finger of Bondo on each and every
> hole you find.  Keep the tube when you are finished to use for minor
repairs
> later.  When you are finshed with this first step your aircraft will look
> like it has the measles.  Then sand with a fine grit paper and paint.
Years
> ago when I built a KR-2, this is what I did and the aircraft won first
prize
> in the composit division, Chino airport, at the 1977 Fly-in and air show,
> Chino, California.
>
> Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
> rsto...@hot.rr.com
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Timothy Bellville" <soner...@worldnet.att.net>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:16 PM
> Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it
>
>
> > Gee Guys,
> > You are making ME worry about the quality of my finish.
> > After two coats of smooth prime,and three of u2k, I have decided that I
> will
> > never reach even close to a perfect finish, So I made the command
decision
> > to declare it done, and ready for paint. Small imperfections be damed. I
> > want to fly this thing this spring and I don't want to add any more wt.
> with
> > fillers.
> > I have a rare KR2 in the respect that it only weighs 535lbs.
empty(before
> > finish paint).
> > Now for a new one to chew on, is it permisable to make your own Data
plate
> > from raw stock?
> > Or do you have to use an approved plate?
> > Thanks
> > TIM
> > KR2  N7038V
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
> > To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 8:31 AM
> > Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it
> >
> >
> > Joe,
> >
> > My experience has been, that after the Smooth Prime, comes the real
> priming
> > and sanding. At least then, you can wet sand it. There is no way that
you
> > will have all the pin holes out of it after smooth prime, so now the
real
> > work begins.
> >
> > The nice thing about having that layer of Smooth Prime on there is that,
> if
> > you put on a grey primer, you quickly know when it is time to stop
> sanding,
> > look for pin holes, fill them, prime, and start sanding all over again.
> >
> > Ain't it fun?
> >
> > See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
> >
> > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
> >
> > da...@kr-builder.org
> >
> > See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
> >
> > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Kenneth B. Jones]

For waviness and depressions, use Superfil by Poly-Fiber.  Then sand using a
straight sanding board. This can be purchased from Spruce.  Then prime.

Ken Jones


- Original Message - 
From: "Timothy Bellville" <soner...@worldnet.att.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 7:02 AM
Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it


> Thanks for all the info guys, but I get the impression that I've led you
> astray about the finish on my bird, It was not about pinholes as much as
it
> was about wavyness of the layups, like when you look down the beam of the
> wings there is some wavy countoures to it, they were all hand layed up
> panels and I will never be able to match the finish of a vaccuum bag part.
>   And I have used that bondo spot puddy for years, and it does work
> great,but needs to be primed over. I have saved about 1/2 gal of primer
for
> this.
> Thanks again guys.
> Now please when you see her at a fly in or airshow don't judge her too
> harsly on the finish,but be glad that there is another added to the flying
> ranks.
> Tim
> KR2 N7038V
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Bob Stone" <rsto...@hot.rr.com>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 7:05 PM
> Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it
>
>
> > Tim,
> > You can get a perfect finish with very little trouble and NO pin
> holes.
> > You are now at the stage where you need to do the following. Just get a
> tube
> > of bondo (it comes like a tube of tooth paste).  Use your index finger
and
> > go over the entire aircraft and wipe a finger of Bondo on each and every
> > hole you find.  Keep the tube when you are finished to use for minor
> repairs
> > later.  When you are finshed with this first step your aircraft will
look
> > like it has the measles.  Then sand with a fine grit paper and paint.
> Years
> > ago when I built a KR-2, this is what I did and the aircraft won first
> prize
> > in the composit division, Chino airport, at the 1977 Fly-in and air
show,
> > Chino, California.
> >
> > Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
> > rsto...@hot.rr.com
> >
> >
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Timothy Bellville" <soner...@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:16 PM
> > Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it
> >
> >
> > > Gee Guys,
> > > You are making ME worry about the quality of my finish.
> > > After two coats of smooth prime,and three of u2k, I have decided that
I
> > will
> > > never reach even close to a perfect finish, So I made the command
> decision
> > > to declare it done, and ready for paint. Small imperfections be damed.
I
> > > want to fly this thing this spring and I don't want to add any more
wt.
> > with
> > > fillers.
> > > I have a rare KR2 in the respect that it only weighs 535lbs.
> empty(before
> > > finish paint).
> > > Now for a new one to chew on, is it permisable to make your own Data
> plate
> > > from raw stock?
> > > Or do you have to use an approved plate?
> > > Thanks
> > > TIM
> > > KR2  N7038V
> > > - Original Message - 
> > > From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
> > > To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> > > Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 8:31 AM
> > > Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it
> > >
> > >
> > > Joe,
> > >
> > > My experience has been, that after the Smooth Prime, comes the real
> > priming
> > > and sanding. At least then, you can wet sand it. There is no way that
> you
> > > will have all the pin holes out of it after smooth prime, so now the
> real
> > > work begins.
> > >
> > > The nice thing about having that layer of Smooth Prime on there is
that,
> > if
> > > you put on a grey primer, you quickly know when it is time to stop
> > sanding,
> > > look for pin holes, fill them, prime, and start sanding all over
again.
> > >
> > > Ain't it fun?
> > >
> > > See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
> > >
> > > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
> > >
> > > da...@kr-builder.org
> > >
> > > See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
> > >
> > > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Dan Heath]

Well, I finally had the opportunity to take the bird outside on this
beautiful 70 degree day and spend about 3.5 hours wet sanding the PPG primer
 It was getting dark, so I put her back inside the factory for the night and
I was admiring what had been done so far. 

I was thinking how enjoyable those 3.5 hours had been... AND THEN I REALIZED
HOW SICK I REALLY AM.

Oh well, it's Friday.

See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering

See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[raybeth...@wmconnect.com]

  Dan,
It is an unusual situation when drudgery becomes  enjoyable.  Never the less, 
enjoy.as much as you can.  Ray Goree

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Bob]

Dan..I do not know much about com function..I would like to have this
note put on the list''  I have a Gor 195 with ant..charge unit..plug for
cockpit hookup..long life battery..owners manual..used very little..paid
900 take 250..bhai...@hcnews.com














2

> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking how enjoyable those 3.5 hours had been... AND THEN I REALIZED
> HOW SICK I REALLY AM.
> 
> Oh well, it's Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
> 
> 
> 
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
> 
> 
> 
> da...@kr-builder.org
> 
> 
> 
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
> 
> 
> 
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Mark Langford]

Bob, if that's a Garmin 195, I'll take it!

256-851-9902

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
N56ML "at"  hiwaay.net
see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford


- Original Message - 
From: "Bob" <bhai...@hcnews.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it


> Dan..I do not know much about com function..I would like to have this
> note put on the list''  I have a Gor 195 with ant..charge unit..plug for
> cockpit hookup..long life battery..owners manual..used very little..paid
> 900 take 250..bhai...@hcnews.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 2
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I was thinking how enjoyable those 3.5 hours had been... AND THEN I
REALIZED
> > HOW SICK I REALLY AM.
> >
> > Oh well, it's Friday.
> >
> >
> >
> > See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
> >
> >
> >
> > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
> >
> >
> >
> > da...@kr-builder.org
> >
> >
> >
> > See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
> >
> >
> >
> > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Joseph H Horton]

> Well, I finally had the opportunity to take the bird outside on this
> beautiful 70 degree day and spend about 3.5 hours wet sanding the 
> PPG primer
>  It was getting dark, so I put her back inside the factory for the 
> night and
> I was admiring what had been done so far.  >   > I was thinking how
enjoyable those 3.5 hours had been... AND THEN I 
> REALIZED
> HOW SICK I REALLY AM. >  > Oh well, it's Friday. >   >
Dan,
I painted my wings  and alirons with smooth prime last weekend and all
week have been finish sanding to prep for the finial primer. This morning
I got curious about how much I was sanding off. Sooo I swept up the floor
and put it back in the can that I measured and mixed the smooth prime in.
I used just under 1/2 gallon of smooth prime. From one wing only I have
about 20 oz. liquid equivilant of dust in the can. That does not include
the layer that is still all over the shop.
I was thinking about asking Jim F. for a CD af the sanding song to play
over and over while I sand. I'm ready to say good enough. ;-)
Joe Horton
Coopersburg, Pa.
joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Dan Heath]

Joe,

My experience has been, that after the Smooth Prime, comes the real priming
and sanding. At least then, you can wet sand it. There is no way that you
will have all the pin holes out of it after smooth prime, so now the real
work begins.

The nice thing about having that layer of Smooth Prime on there is that, if
you put on a grey primer, you quickly know when it is time to stop sanding,
look for pin holes, fill them, prime, and start sanding all over again. 

Ain't it fun?

See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering

See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Timothy Bellville]

Gee Guys,
You are making ME worry about the quality of my finish.
After two coats of smooth prime,and three of u2k, I have decided that I will
never reach even close to a perfect finish, So I made the command decision
to declare it done, and ready for paint. Small imperfections be damed. I
want to fly this thing this spring and I don't want to add any more wt. with
fillers.
I have a rare KR2 in the respect that it only weighs 535lbs. empty(before
finish paint).
Now for a new one to chew on, is it permisable to make your own Data plate
from raw stock?
Or do you have to use an approved plate?
Thanks
TIM
KR2  N7038V
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it


Joe,

My experience has been, that after the Smooth Prime, comes the real priming
and sanding. At least then, you can wet sand it. There is no way that you
will have all the pin holes out of it after smooth prime, so now the real
work begins.

The nice thing about having that layer of Smooth Prime on there is that, if
you put on a grey primer, you quickly know when it is time to stop sanding,
look for pin holes, fill them, prime, and start sanding all over again.

Ain't it fun?

See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering

See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org



___
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Dan Heath]

I am convinced that most of us will never see a perfect finish, let alone
create one. I just try to get out all the pin holes and make what finish
there is , smooth, so the paint will look as good as possible.

If it were perfect, I would be afraid to fly it.

I made my data plate on the Little Beast, on the inspection plate cover that
went over the inspection hole under the horiz stab. Don't know if that is OK
 but I just think you have to provide the information in a place visible on
the exterior of the plane.

See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering

See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>Sanding and lovin it

[Bob Stone]

Tim,
You can get a perfect finish with very little trouble and NO pin holes.
You are now at the stage where you need to do the following. Just get a tube
of bondo (it comes like a tube of tooth paste).  Use your index finger and
go over the entire aircraft and wipe a finger of Bondo on each and every
hole you find.  Keep the tube when you are finished to use for minor repairs
later.  When you are finshed with this first step your aircraft will look
like it has the measles.  Then sand with a fine grit paper and paint.  Years
ago when I built a KR-2, this is what I did and the aircraft won first prize
in the composit division, Chino airport, at the 1977 Fly-in and air show,
Chino, California.

Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
rsto...@hot.rr.com


- Original Message - 
From: "Timothy Bellville" <soner...@worldnet.att.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it


> Gee Guys,
> You are making ME worry about the quality of my finish.
> After two coats of smooth prime,and three of u2k, I have decided that I
will
> never reach even close to a perfect finish, So I made the command decision
> to declare it done, and ready for paint. Small imperfections be damed. I
> want to fly this thing this spring and I don't want to add any more wt.
with
> fillers.
> I have a rare KR2 in the respect that it only weighs 535lbs. empty(before
> finish paint).
> Now for a new one to chew on, is it permisable to make your own Data plate
> from raw stock?
> Or do you have to use an approved plate?
> Thanks
> TIM
> KR2  N7038V
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 8:31 AM
> Subject: Re: KR>Sanding and lovin it
>
>
> Joe,
>
> My experience has been, that after the Smooth Prime, comes the real
priming
> and sanding. At least then, you can wet sand it. There is no way that you
> will have all the pin holes out of it after smooth prime, so now the real
> work begins.
>
> The nice thing about having that layer of Smooth Prime on there is that,
if
> you put on a grey primer, you quickly know when it is time to stop
sanding,
> look for pin holes, fill them, prime, and start sanding all over again.
>
> Ain't it fun?
>
> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
> da...@kr-builder.org
>
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
>
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR>Sanding tip

[Jack Cooper]

KR netters
I have recently been working on my canopy frame. Today while trying to sand the 
foam inside the frame I was using a 3" PVC pipe with sandpaper attached to sand 
a concave surface. The pipe was too long for what I needed so I thought of my 
inflatable sanding drum. I inflated it until it was bulging then used it as a 
hand tool. This worked very good and I can see where it would be very good for 
any concave surface such as wing to fuselage areas. My inflatable sander is 
from Shopsmith and I used it extensively building my stick grip 
http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/grip.html and in other woodworking projects 
and now for sanding foam. I'm sure it would work on any wood lathe. Link below 
for anyone that may be interested. I have checked one other woodworking supply 
and it was about the same price as 
Shopsmith.htttp://www.shopsmith.com/catalog/html/sn_inflatablesander.htm 



Robert J. (Jack) Cooper
kr2coo...@earthlink.net
http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/kr2.html
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.

KR>Sanding tip

[Scott Cable]

Jack,
LOVE your grip!  I have an older belt-drive Shopsmith,
Wonderful tool.
Thanks for the tip!
--- Jack Cooper  wrote:
> http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/grip.html and in
> other woodworking projects and now for sanding foam.
> I'm sure it would work on any wood lathe. Link below
> for anyone that may be interested. I have checked
> one other woodworking supply and it was about the
> same price as
>
Shopsmith.http://www.shopsmith.com/catalog/html/sn_inflatablesander.htm



=
Scott Cable
KR-2S # 735
Wright City, MO
s2cab...@yahoo.com

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