Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD Wagon

2015-07-24 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Location of this car?  Mobile website surfing stinks.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD Wagon

2015-07-24 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I believe it was in Daytona Beach, FL.

Dan


 On Jul 24, 2015, at 12:42 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Location of this car?  Mobile website surfing stinks.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD Wagon

2015-07-24 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Thanks Dan, pix look like FL.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On July 24, 2015 12:48:17 PM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I believe it was in Daytona Beach, FL.

Dan


 On Jul 24, 2015, at 12:42 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Location of this car?  Mobile website surfing stinks.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD Wagon

2015-07-24 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I think you guys are confirmed bottom-feeders, struggling to justify why the 
old adage about a cheap Mercedes is wrong.

Assuming the seller is not lying, a low mile and rust free diesel wagon that is 
not rough should easily be worth twice what they go for all the time.  
Local market will drive the price.

If I were shopping for another wagon, I'd be all over that.
-- 
Max Dillon (who paid too much for his wagon)
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD Wagon

2015-07-24 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes


 On July 24, 2015 at 10:16 AM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 
 His is about a $3500 car

Spending a ton of money bringing a car up to snuff does not raise its market
value a corresponding amount, 
but it does make the car a much better deal at $3500 than a $2500 car that still
needs all that stuff done 
to it. 

Mitch. 

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD Wagon

2015-07-24 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
A common line of thinking on Craigslist.  “I just put an exorbitant amount of 
money into this car so now it’s worth that and more.”

Never seems to work out, either.

Dan


 On Jul 24, 2015, at 3:20 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Spending a ton of money bringing a car up to snuff does not raise its market
 value a corresponding amount, 
 but it does make the car a much better deal at $3500 than a $2500 car that 
 still
 needs all that stuff done 
 to it. 
 
 Mitch. 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD Wagon

2015-07-24 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
Exactly. Otherwise it would be a 2-2.5k car like you say. Maybe even less. 124 
diesels are almost free these days around here. There was a decent 87 300d on 
cl a couple months ago that would not start after a filter change. Somebody 
bought it as I saw it in the last couple of weeks, runs and drives now. Price 
was $1900. Several weeks later it is now $900 and the ad is still up so I 
assume he has not sold it. I have a rough 87TD with a #17 head I but on cl for 
$1500 to see if there would be any action and I have got no bites.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 24, 2015, at 2:20 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 On July 24, 2015 at 10:16 AM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 
 His is about a $3500 car
 
 Spending a ton of money bringing a car up to snuff does not raise its market
 value a corresponding amount, 
 but it does make the car a much better deal at $3500 than a $2500 car that 
 still
 needs all that stuff done 
 to it. 
 
 Mitch. 
 
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD rev counter.

2015-07-13 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Curly, 

The plug on the top of the IP is the rack position sensor, nothing to do with 
idle. It has a locking ring that needs to be turned to allow removal.

There is a small two pin connector at the back of the IP, between IP and cruise 
control actuator, which is for idle.  Pinch to release.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On July 13, 2015 12:00:18 AM EDT, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
(I think EDC is the book term for the 
electronic idle speed control plug on the top of the IP.)  

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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD rev counter.

2015-07-12 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
No, that one is for diagnostics, specifically setting the injection 
timing with the dynamic tool.


The one for the idle speed/tach is on the rear of the engine reading 
off the flywheel.


Peter


Interesting.  Thanks again.  We have a  87 124 300D that has a 
completely wacko idle.  Everything I've tried makes no difference.  I 
think the tach also goes wacky with the idle.  But when I unhook the 
idle speed electric connector on the pump it does the same wacky idle 
thing.I never thought of looking at the tach/instrument cluster 
as Dan suggests.


Is there some other connection between the hall effect 
sensor/tachometer to the throttle or idle speed control that would 
work with the EDC unhooked? (I think EDC is the book term for the 
electronic idle speed control plug on the top of the IP.)  It sounds 
like a flakey signal from the sensor would cause this, but I don't 
understand how it could work with the plug on top of the IP 
disconnected.


Next time I see the car (probably 6 months) I will look for this 
sender and connector at the rear.


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-09 Thread Brian Toscano
I think I just put a mark on the bolts when I did it on a OM602.


On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 9:25 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 It's aluminum, under high pressure, and too expensive for me to risk
 messing it up. YMMV.

 On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:

  Ok, but why?  Removing and re-torquing one bolt at a time doesn't seem
  like a recipe for warping the head.  There are twenty-two of them!
  --
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
  OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  NO! - Loosen the bolts in the pattern in the book - then
  re-torque/stretch
  them per the book. Do not pull out the bolts one at a time - at the
  risk of
  warping the head.
  
  On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Max Dillon
  meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:
  
   So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure stretch to make sure it
  is
   still within spec, then torque in the three stages without the ten
  minute
   wait before the last 90 degree turn, or do I need to keep the wait?
   --
   Max Dillon
   Charleston SC
   '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
  
  
 
 
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 --
 OK Don
 2012 Passat TDI DSG
 1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Max Dillon
I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree rotations.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:

I didn't use anything fancy at all. I just used the $40 digital torque
wrench adapter from HF. I read a recent review about this showing it
was just as precise (in some cases more) than others.

Looks it on sale!
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-torue-adapter-68283.html

Sent from my ASUS Pad

Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

I only drove it a couple hundred miles and parked it.

Sometimes the upper radiator hose would stay pressurized after the
engine cooled, so I'm suspicious that either the head is bad, the
gasket is bad, or I didn't properly torque the head bolts.

I'd love to borrow that fancy torque wrench that Rolf used, and
re-torque my head bolts.

I'm also concerned about a problem with one of the hydraulic lifters. 
You may recall that I had to bleed one down to get full valve closure
for one valve.  When I fixed that, I discovered that the bore for the
intake valve lifter for the number six cylinder has a problem.  The
bottom half of the bore is too big, looks like it was eroded away.  The
lifter can get cocked in the bore, making it very hard to remove.

At first I thought that some grit must have contaminated that bore
during my work, and wore out the bottom half.  After talking with a
machinist, he explained that is not possible.  If grit had contaminated
the bore, it would have scored all of the bore equally, not just the
lower half, and the scoring would look nothing like erosion.  He thinks
it is a casting flaw, and had probably been there from the factory. 
I'm worried that eventually the lifter will get cocked so bad it will
break the camshaft.

So I'm going to dive in again soon, work has finally slowed a little
so I'm not traveling every week, but I'm not too happy about pulling
the head off again.

I really wish there was an oversize repair lifter, do I could machine
out the bore to restore it and keep this head.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

Max, what's the latest with your 300TD?  You had a head prob; is that
solved; is it running, etc.?
Is the E300's cooing sys (cabin) OK?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:

I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree rotations.


Snap-On has one of those.
Or you can paint 4 lines or arrows on your socket.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Max Dillon
Haven't driven it very far, didn't see any coolant loss yet.

Head is a #20, was pressure checked by machine shop prior to installation, so I 
would really doubt that, but that is the must common reason for pressurized 
cooling system.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

Ugh, that means you may have a cracked head.  Not a good deal.

Does it use coolant?  If not, probably not a cracked head.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Max Dillon
I may try something along those lines, attach a pointer to the socket and lay a 
90 degree guide on the head.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Max Dillon wrote:
 I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree
rotations.

Snap-On has one of those.
Or you can paint 4 lines or arrows on your socket.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Dieselhead
That is a good idea.  You can feel the bolts 
yield.  To my thinking, if you get 85 or 95 º of 
turn, as long as you feel the bolt yield, it 
won't make that much difference.  So I don't 
think you have to be that accurate.


Loren


I may try something along those lines, attach a 
pointer to the socket and lay a 90 degree guide 
on the head.


--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


Max Dillon wrote:

 I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree

rotations.

Snap-On has one of those.

 Or you can paint 4 lines or arrows on your socket.
 


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Max Dillon
So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure stretch to make sure it is still 
within spec, then torque in the three stages without the ten minute wait before 
the last 90 degree turn, or do I need to keep the wait?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

That is a good idea.  You can feel the bolts 
yield.  To my thinking, if you get 85 or 95 º of 
turn, as long as you feel the bolt yield, it 
won't make that much difference.  So I don't 
think you have to be that accurate.

Loren


I may try something along those lines, attach a 
pointer to the socket and lay a 90 degree guide 
on the head.

--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Max Dillon wrote:
  I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree
rotations.

Snap-On has one of those.
  Or you can paint 4 lines or arrows on your socket.
  

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Dieselhead
No, that is not what I am saying at all.  Follow 
the book procedure.  On a normal bolt, the more 
you turn it, the tighter it gets.  On the stretch 
bolts,  as you make the two 90º turns per the 
book , at some point in the turn it no longer 
takes increasing power as the bolt turns.  This 
means you have reached the point of elasticity 
of the bolt. (as designed to do)  This is when 
the bolt stretches.  WHat you feel on the handle 
is a more or less linear increase of force, then 
a levelling off.  On the second turn, the last 
30-40 º of turn is typically stretch.


You only measure the stretch when you take them out of the head.

Or are you asking about retorquing?  I have never 
seen an instruction for retorquing.  If you want 
to retorque one at a time, then yes, I think you 
can pull, measure, then retorque.  I am not sure 
about the 10 min wait.  You could do all of them 
fhe first 90, then wait 10, and do the second 
turn on all and still satisfy the book without 
removing the head.


You could also try a rudimentary Cyl head leakage 
test. through the inj hole or the GP hole to see 
if you can hear any leaks.



So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure 
stretch to make sure it is still within spec, 
then torque in the three stages without the ten 
minute wait before the last 90 degree turn, or 
do I need to keep the wait?

--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


That is a good idea.  You can feel the bolts
yield.  To my thinking, if you get 85 or 95 º of
turn, as long as you feel the bolt yield, it
won't make that much difference.  So I don't
think you have to be that accurate.

Loren



I may try something along those lines, attach a
pointer to the socket and lay a 90 degree guide
on the head.

--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


Max Dillon wrote:

  I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree

rotations.

Snap-On has one of those.

  Or you can paint 4 lines or arrows on your socket.
  


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread OK Don
NO! - Loosen the bolts in the pattern in the book - then re-torque/stretch
them per the book. Do not pull out the bolts one at a time - at the risk of
warping the head.

On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure stretch to make sure it is
 still within spec, then torque in the three stages without the ten minute
 wait before the last 90 degree turn, or do I need to keep the wait?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20




-- 
OK Don
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread Max Dillon
Ok, but why?  Removing and re-torquing one bolt at a time doesn't seem like a 
recipe for warping the head.  There are twenty-two of them!
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

NO! - Loosen the bolts in the pattern in the book - then
re-torque/stretch
them per the book. Do not pull out the bolts one at a time - at the
risk of
warping the head.

On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Max Dillon
meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure stretch to make sure it
is
 still within spec, then torque in the three stages without the ten
minute
 wait before the last 90 degree turn, or do I need to keep the wait?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20




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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-08 Thread OK Don
It's aluminum, under high pressure, and too expensive for me to risk
messing it up. YMMV.

On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Ok, but why?  Removing and re-torquing one bolt at a time doesn't seem
 like a recipe for warping the head.  There are twenty-two of them!
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 NO! - Loosen the bolts in the pattern in the book - then
 re-torque/stretch
 them per the book. Do not pull out the bolts one at a time - at the
 risk of
 warping the head.
 
 On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Max Dillon
 meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:
 
  So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure stretch to make sure it
 is
  still within spec, then torque in the three stages without the ten
 minute
  wait before the last 90 degree turn, or do I need to keep the wait?
  --
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
 


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-- 
OK Don
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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[MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-07 Thread WILTON
Max, what's the latest with your 300TD?  You had a head prob; is that solved; 
is it running, etc.?
Is the E300's cooing sys (cabin) OK?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-07 Thread Max Dillon
I only drove it a couple hundred miles and parked it.

Sometimes the upper radiator hose would stay pressurized after the engine 
cooled, so I'm suspicious that either the head is bad, the gasket is bad, or I 
didn't properly torque the head bolts.

I'd love to borrow that fancy torque wrench that Rolf used, and re-torque my 
head bolts.

I'm also concerned about a problem with one of the hydraulic lifters.  You may 
recall that I had to bleed one down to get full valve closure for one valve.  
When I fixed that, I discovered that the bore for the intake valve lifter for 
the number six cylinder has a problem.  The bottom half of the bore is too big, 
looks like it was eroded away.  The lifter can get cocked in the bore, making 
it very hard to remove.

At first I thought that some grit must have contaminated that bore during my 
work, and wore out the bottom half.  After talking with a machinist, he 
explained that is not possible.  If grit had contaminated the bore, it would 
have scored all of the bore equally, not just the lower half, and the scoring 
would look nothing like erosion.  He thinks it is a casting flaw, and had 
probably been there from the factory.  I'm worried that eventually the lifter 
will get cocked so bad it will break the camshaft.

So I'm going to dive in again soon, work has finally slowed a little so I'm not 
traveling every week, but I'm not too happy about pulling the head off again.

I really wish there was an oversize repair lifter, do I could machine out the 
bore to restore it and keep this head.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

Max, what's the latest with your 300TD?  You had a head prob; is that
solved; is it running, etc.?
Is the E300's cooing sys (cabin) OK?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-07 Thread Peter Frederick
You should only need a torque wrench for the first step of head bolt  
tightening, to 35 ft/lbs.  After that it's a 90 degree turn, wait 10  
min, do another 90 degrees.  If you attempt to use a torque wrench for  
final tightening, you will either break the bolts or leave it too  
loose, depending on what you try to use for a torque.  These are  
stretch bolts, and do NOT have a defined final torque.


Not only that, buy my friend Hans strongly recommends tossing them any  
time you take the head off and put brand new ones in.  It's fine to  
reuse them on the gassers if they aren't stretched too much, but he's  
never had a head seal properly for long if you re-use the diesel ones.  
Much cheaper than a new head gasket set.


Can't help you on the lifter bore, you might want to take it too a  
good head shop and see if they can sleeve it for you.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-07 Thread Max Dillon
Peter, 

Yes, I used new head bolts, followed the FSM procedure, but used a breaker bar 
for the ninety degree turns.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

You should only need a torque wrench for the first step of head bolt  
tightening, to 35 ft/lbs.  After that it's a 90 degree turn, wait 10  
min, do another 90 degrees.  If you attempt to use a torque wrench for 

final tightening, you will either break the bolts or leave it too  
loose, depending on what you try to use for a torque.  These are  
stretch bolts, and do NOT have a defined final torque.

Not only that, buy my friend Hans strongly recommends tossing them any 

time you take the head off and put brand new ones in.  It's fine to  
reuse them on the gassers if they aren't stretched too much, but he's  
never had a head seal properly for long if you re-use the diesel ones. 

Much cheaper than a new head gasket set.

Can't help you on the lifter bore, you might want to take it too a  
good head shop and see if they can sleeve it for you.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-07 Thread Rolf
I didn't use anything fancy at all. I just used the $40 digital torque wrench 
adapter from HF. I read a recent review about this showing it was just as 
precise (in some cases more) than others.

Looks it on sale! http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-torue-adapter-68283.html

Sent from my ASUS Pad

Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

I only drove it a couple hundred miles and parked it.

Sometimes the upper radiator hose would stay pressurized after the engine 
cooled, so I'm suspicious that either the head is bad, the gasket is bad, or I 
didn't properly torque the head bolts.

I'd love to borrow that fancy torque wrench that Rolf used, and re-torque my 
head bolts.

I'm also concerned about a problem with one of the hydraulic lifters.  You may 
recall that I had to bleed one down to get full valve closure for one valve.  
When I fixed that, I discovered that the bore for the intake valve lifter for 
the number six cylinder has a problem.  The bottom half of the bore is too 
big, looks like it was eroded away.  The lifter can get cocked in the bore, 
making it very hard to remove.

At first I thought that some grit must have contaminated that bore during my 
work, and wore out the bottom half.  After talking with a machinist, he 
explained that is not possible.  If grit had contaminated the bore, it would 
have scored all of the bore equally, not just the lower half, and the scoring 
would look nothing like erosion.  He thinks it is a casting flaw, and had 
probably been there from the factory.  I'm worried that eventually the lifter 
will get cocked so bad it will break the camshaft.

So I'm going to dive in again soon, work has finally slowed a little so I'm 
not traveling every week, but I'm not too happy about pulling the head off 
again.

I really wish there was an oversize repair lifter, do I could machine out the 
bore to restore it and keep this head.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

Max, what's the latest with your 300TD?  You had a head prob; is that
solved; is it running, etc.?
Is the E300's cooing sys (cabin) OK?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-07 Thread Rolf
So I actually added a step in between (before the final tightening sequence) 
and gave them an extra while to sit before that last 90*

Heads coming off again so I can pop the pistons out and rehone the cylinders 
and hope I get better compression for cheap. All the fuel my super pump dumps 
in is causing misfires.

-Rolf


Sent from my ASUS Pad

Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

Peter, 

Yes, I used new head bolts, followed the FSM procedure, but used a breaker bar 
for the ninety degree turns.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

You should only need a torque wrench for the first step of head bolt  
tightening, to 35 ft/lbs.  After that it's a 90 degree turn, wait 10  
min, do another 90 degrees.  If you attempt to use a torque wrench for 

final tightening, you will either break the bolts or leave it too  
loose, depending on what you try to use for a torque.  These are  
stretch bolts, and do NOT have a defined final torque.

Not only that, buy my friend Hans strongly recommends tossing them any 

time you take the head off and put brand new ones in.  It's fine to  
reuse them on the gassers if they aren't stretched too much, but he's  
never had a head seal properly for long if you re-use the diesel ones. 

Much cheaper than a new head gasket set.

Can't help you on the lifter bore, you might want to take it too a  
good head shop and see if they can sleeve it for you.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2013-03-07 Thread Peter Frederick

Ugh, that means you may have a cracked head.  Not a good deal.

Does it use coolant?  If not, probably not a cracked head.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD WVO

2011-10-14 Thread Randy Bennell

On 13/10/2011 6:13 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 3:15 PM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:


On 13/10/2011 3:26 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car

http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html


One could remove and sell the WVO kit but one would NEVER get the smell of
frenchfries out of that interior.

I can think of much worse smells to be permanently stuck with in a car!

Alex



Maybe, but I suggest it would get old in a hurry.

I guess it may depend on how careful he was but looking at that tank 
sitting in the well at the back of the car leads me to believe that 
spills have probably occurred.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD WVO

2011-10-14 Thread Allan Streib
On Friday, October 14, 2011 11:15 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca 
wrote:

 I guess it may depend on how careful he was but looking at that tank 
 sitting in the well at the back of the car leads me to believe that 
 spills have probably occurred.

Good steam cleaning with strong detergent would get most of it, if there is any.

Worst case pull out the carpet and replace.  I personally would not knowingly 
buy a car that had ever been run on WVO, but the way this ad was written it 
seemed that the owner was doing things like careful filtering and using a 
proper pre-heated system not just pulling up at the back of McDonald's and 
siphoning grease into the fuel tank.

Allan

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[MBZ] 87 300TD WVO

2011-10-13 Thread Allan Streib
This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car

http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD WVO

2011-10-13 Thread Randy Bennell



On 13/10/2011 3:26 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car

http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html



One could remove and sell the WVO kit but one would NEVER get the smell 
of frenchfries out of that interior.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD WVO

2011-10-13 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 3:15 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:


 On 13/10/2011 3:26 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

 This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car

 http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html

 One could remove and sell the WVO kit but one would NEVER get the smell of
 frenchfries out of that interior.

I can think of much worse smells to be permanently stuck with in a car!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-08-08 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, and it seems that there are heads with numbers from 16 on up to 22. 
Attached is a picture of the casting of the part number from the head I just 
took off my wagon. It is a number 14 head, the number is found above the number 
two injector hole.

This car has 330,000 miles, has been using a very small amount of coolant for 
years, but never had the hard upper hose when cold. Coolant was finally 
detected in the engine oil, I'm in the process of replacing with a number 17 
head. On the old head, there are cracks between every intake and exhaust valve 
seat.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

OK, so did all 87s come with the 14 head and then later some had them replaced? 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:26 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Wow, now that is the answer I was looking for! Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:16 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code -- the 
original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best version is the 
-22- one.

They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or oil 
passages, causing the usual results -- overheating, coolant use, etc.

The head gaskets also fail pretty often, between cylinders and from cooling 
passages or oil return to the outside, resulting in leaks. Worst failure is 
between the oil passage across the front of the block -- failure here allows 
oil to enter the #1 cylinder under pressure. If enough gets in there, the #1 
rod gets bent.

All the bits from the -14- head will fit the -22-, with the proviso that it may 
be necessary to machine the pre-chambers to clear the bottom of the large hole 
in the heads. The correct ones, with inclined injectors, are a bit shorter at 
the shoulder, and if they don't fit correctly the pre-chamber will leak 
compression at the upper seal, usually badly enough that the engine will not 
run.

Always use all new head bolts, they often fail when re-used, as I discovered on 
my old 300D.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-08-08 Thread Allan Streib
Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net writes:

 This car has 330,000 miles, has been using a very small amount of
 coolant for years, but never had the hard upper hose when
 cold.

I've had a question about this test, is this done with the engine
running and cold (i.e. just after a cold start) or is the hose hard with
the engine cold and off (i.e. after cool-down).

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-08-08 Thread Peter Frederick

Test is hard hose after cool down, engine not running.

Requires a good coolant tank, which one should not assume by this age.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-08-05 Thread Dieselhead
But a 14 head is not a conviction.  All of my 603s have or have had 
14 heads.  My original SDL was the best running of all and had over 
400K on the 14 head.  The last time this came up, the general 
discussion was that if the 14 head survived this long, it would 
probably live out its life.  (Provided it is not overheated)  all the 
rest have 200 to 300 K on them.  I have never had the head off a 60x 
yet.


Look for signs of leaking head gasket and signs of a cracked head.




Wow, now that is the answer I was looking for! Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:16 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code -- 
the original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best 
version is the -22- one.


They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or 
oil passages, causing the usual results -- overheating, coolant use, 
etc.


The head gaskets also fail pretty often, between cylinders and from 
cooling passages or oil return to the outside, resulting in leaks. 
Worst failure is between the oil passage across the front of the 
block -- failure here allows oil to enter the #1 cylinder under 
pressure.  If enough gets in there, the #1 rod gets bent.


All the bits from the -14- head will fit the -22-, with the proviso 
that it may be necessary to machine the pre-chambers to clear the 
bottom of the large hole in the heads.  The correct ones, with 
inclined injectors, are a bit shorter at the shoulder, and if they 
don't fit correctly the pre-chamber will leak compression at the 
upper seal, usually badly enough that the engine will not run.


Always use all new head bolts, they often fail when re-used, as I 
discovered on my old 300D.


Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Max Dillon
No, I think that is the later 124s which had weak evaporators and wiring 
harnesses that disintegrate. 1994  1995 I think, but now I'm remembering that 
Wilton replaced one for one of his cars Which one was that Wilton?

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

OK Don wrote:
 Bottom line, if I didn't see signs of a cracked head, I would not be afraid
 of the car.


... but would prefer to see evidence of a recent evaporator replacement.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:

No, I think that is the later 124s which had weak evaporators and wiring harnesses 
that disintegrate. 1994  1995 I think, but now I'm remembering that Wilton 
replaced one for one of his cars Which one was that Wilton?
  


Wilton has a very well preserved 1987 sedan, he looked for a long time 
and bought the best one he found.

The evap was upgraded over the years, but I don't know specifics.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Peter Frederick
Evaporator failures ran 15-30%, I believe (two out of three at our  
house), probably due to the use of copper pipes swagged onto aluminum  
cores.  They crack at the junctions between the pipes and core as a  
general rule, although other failures are possible.


The new ones are all aluminum, wonder of wonders, and don't crack  
that I know of.


BIG job -- not really difficult, but very fiddlesome (dash has to  
come out completely) and very time consuming.  Book time per MB is 16  
hours, so the first one is more likely 20 for the average DIY type.   
Took me three days.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Rolf
Chances are if the car has made it this far you are not going to have 
head problems.


-Rolf

On 7/30/2011 7:26 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head or 
something?
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Michael Canfield
Isn't this the one with a picture of a head gasket amongst other parts in
the back?  If there is no head problem why buy the parts?(unless you find a
deal on them or something like that.)

Worth asking about right?  Maybe they know it has an early head and bought
parts just in case?

Mike
On Jul 31, 2011 10:06 AM, Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:
 Chances are if the car has made it this far you are not going to have
 head problems.

 -Rolf

 On 7/30/2011 7:26 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head
or something?
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread WILTON

Evapectomy on '87 300D built in Oct '86.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?


No, I think that is the later 124s which had weak evaporators and wiring 
harnesses that disintegrate. 1994  1995 I think, but now I'm remembering 
that Wilton replaced one for one of his cars Which one was that 
Wilton?


Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

OK Don wrote:
Bottom line, if I didn't see signs of a cracked head, I would not be 
afraid

of the car.



... but would prefer to see evidence of a recent evaporator replacement.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread WILTON
'Tried to read # on my '87 300D head few minutes ago; 'looks like 603 016 
1(maybe 4, can't be sure - not clear) etc.; so, is my head a 16 or a 14; I 
suspect it's a 14; 'never heard/known anything about its being changed.  No 
prob with it now that I can tell.  123 kmi.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?


That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from  1984 
to 1995 or so.  The original design was part # 14, and it failed  in 
service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the  #17 
head on it (nine years later(.


The #14 was used on all OM603 engines sold in the US in 1986 and  1987, 
and probably all of them have cracked by now.  If failed in  normal 
service, not as a result of overheating, which can crack any  of them.


I'm not sure which one I had on the old 300D, the current car has had  it 
replaced with a newer version.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Max Dillon
That's a 14 head, if the digit you're not sure of is a 4.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

'Tried to read # on my '87 300D head few minutes ago; 'looks like 603 016 
1(maybe 4, can't be sure - not clear) etc.; so, is my head a 16 or a 14; I 
suspect it's a 14; 'never heard/known anything about its being changed. No 
prob with it now that I can tell. 123 kmi.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?


 That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from 1984 
 to 1995 or so. The original design was part # 14, and it failed in 
 service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the #17 
 head on it (nine years later(.

 The #14 was used on all OM603 engines sold in the US in 1986 and 1987, 
 and probably all of them have cracked by now. If failed in normal 
 service, not as a result of overheating, which can crack any of them.

 I'm not sure which one I had on the old 300D, the current car has had it 
 replaced with a newer version.

 Peter

_

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread WILTON
Well, it looks like a 4 more than anything else.  The opening in the 4 is 
fairly well closed - not a clear point on left side, but I think it's a 4. 
Is it in the right place in the number to denote 14, 16, etc., - 2 digits by 
themselves.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?



That's a 14 head, if the digit you're not sure of is a 4.

Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

'Tried to read # on my '87 300D head few minutes ago; 'looks like 603 016
1(maybe 4, can't be sure - not clear) etc.; so, is my head a 16 or a 14; I
suspect it's a 14; 'never heard/known anything about its being changed. No
prob with it now that I can tell. 123 kmi.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?



That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from 1984
to 1995 or so. The original design was part # 14, and it failed in
service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the #17
head on it (nine years later(.

The #14 was used on all OM603 engines sold in the US in 1986 and 1987,
and probably all of them have cracked by now. If failed in normal
service, not as a result of overheating, which can crack any of them.

I'm not sure which one I had on the old 300D, the current car has had it
replaced with a newer version.

Peter

_



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread WILTON
'Just looked again.  Head on my 87 300D is highly likely a 14; head on my 91 
350SDL is clearly a 17.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?


Well, it looks like a 4 more than anything else.  The opening in the 4 is 
fairly well closed - not a clear point on left side, but I think it's a 4. 
Is it in the right place in the number to denote 14, 16, etc., - 2 digits 
by themselves.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?



That's a 14 head, if the digit you're not sure of is a 4.

Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

'Tried to read # on my '87 300D head few minutes ago; 'looks like 603 016
1(maybe 4, can't be sure - not clear) etc.; so, is my head a 16 or a 14; 
I
suspect it's a 14; 'never heard/known anything about its being changed. 
No

prob with it now that I can tell. 123 kmi.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?


That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from 
1984

to 1995 or so. The original design was part # 14, and it failed in
service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the #17
head on it (nine years later(.

The #14 was used on all OM603 engines sold in the US in 1986 and 1987,
and probably all of them have cracked by now. If failed in normal
service, not as a result of overheating, which can crack any of them.

I'm not sure which one I had on the old 300D, the current car has had it
replaced with a newer version.

Peter

_



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Peter Frederick
Some of them last forever, some cracked in 50k miles.  You have a  
good one -- just don't ever let it get really hot, does them in every  
time.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-31 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, that's the right position in the sequence.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

Well, it looks like a 4 more than anything else. The opening in the 4 is 
fairly well closed - not a clear point on left side, but I think it's a 4. 
Is it in the right place in the number to denote 14, 16, etc., - 2 digits by 
themselves.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?


 That's a 14 head, if the digit you're not sure of is a 4.

 Max
 -- 
 Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 'Tried to read # on my '87 300D head few minutes ago; 'looks like 603 016
 1(maybe 4, can't be sure - not clear) etc.; so, is my head a 16 or a 14; I
 suspect it's a 14; 'never heard/known anything about its being changed. No
 prob with it now that I can tell. 123 kmi.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - 
 From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 9:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?


 That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from 1984
 to 1995 or so. The original design was part # 14, and it failed in
 service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the #17
 head on it (nine years later(.

 The #14 was used on all OM603 engines sold in the US in 1986 and 1987,
 and probably all of them have cracked by now. If failed in normal
 service, not as a result of overheating, which can crack any of them.

 I'm not sure which one I had on the old 300D, the current car has had it
 replaced with a newer version.

 Peter

_


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[MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head or 
something? 
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Peter Frederick
The head is easily replaced.  Else a standard W124 -- mine has about  
350,000 miles on it and is doing pretty well for it's age!


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
My brother found one he's interested in. Is there a specific head to look out 
for? What is the problem with the heads?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 7:28 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

The head is easily replaced.  Else a standard W124 -- mine has about 350,000 
miles on it and is doing pretty well for it's age!

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.



On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head or
 something?
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-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Actually I think they're quite nice looking. It's the mechanicals I'm concerned 
about.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:05 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.



On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head or
something?
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-- 
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Peter Frederick
In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code --  
the original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best  
version is the -22- one.


They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or  
oil passages, causing the usual results -- overheating, coolant use,  
etc.


The head gaskets also fail pretty often, between cylinders and from  
cooling passages or oil return to the outside, resulting in leaks.   
Worst failure is between the oil passage across the front of the  
block -- failure here allows oil to enter the #1 cylinder under  
pressure.  If enough gets in there, the #1 rod gets bent.


All the bits from the -14- head will fit the -22-, with the proviso  
that it may be necessary to machine the pre-chambers to clear the  
bottom of the large hole in the heads.  The correct ones, with  
inclined injectors, are a bit shorter at the shoulder, and if they  
don't fit correctly the pre-chamber will leak compression at the  
upper seal, usually badly enough that the engine will not run.


Always use all new head bolts, they often fail when re-used, as I  
discovered on my old 300D.


Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Wow, now that is the answer I was looking for! Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:16 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code -- the 
original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best version is the 
-22- one.

They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or oil 
passages, causing the usual results -- overheating, coolant use, etc.

The head gaskets also fail pretty often, between cylinders and from cooling 
passages or oil return to the outside, resulting in leaks.  Worst failure is 
between the oil passage across the front of the block -- failure here allows 
oil to enter the #1 cylinder under pressure.  If enough gets in there, the #1 
rod gets bent.

All the bits from the -14- head will fit the -22-, with the proviso that it may 
be necessary to machine the pre-chambers to clear the bottom of the large hole 
in the heads.  The correct ones, with inclined injectors, are a bit shorter at 
the shoulder, and if they don't fit correctly the pre-chamber will leak 
compression at the upper seal, usually badly enough that the engine will not 
run.

Always use all new head bolts, they often fail when re-used, as I discovered on 
my old 300D.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Michael Canfield
Not that wagon.  The newer ones, I forget the model but someone was selling
one here not long ago I think.

Mike
On Jul 30, 2011 8:05 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.



 On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head
or
 something?
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 --
 Sent from my mobile device

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread OK Don
Marshall, or someone else, posited that they defective #14 heads have all
failed and been replaced by now. While not absolute, and overheating will
still crack good heads, I think there might be some merit to that statement.
The '87 SDL I had still had the original head at 200,000 miles and showed no
signs of being cracked.
A hard upper radiator hose on a cold engine is one possible indication of a
crackede head, though not the only one.
Bottom line, if I didn't see signs of a cracked head, I would not be afraid
of the car.
On Sat, Jul 30, 2011 at 7:16 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.netwrote:

 In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code -- the
 original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best version is
 the -22- one.

 They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or oil
 passages, causing the usual results -- overheating, coolant use, etc.

 The head gaskets also fail pretty often, between cylinders and from cooling
 passages or oil return to the outside, resulting in leaks.  Worst failure is
 between the oil passage across the front of the block -- failure here allows
 oil to enter the #1 cylinder under pressure.  If enough gets in there, the
 #1 rod gets bent.

 All the bits from the -14- head will fit the -22-, with the proviso that it
 may be necessary to machine the pre-chambers to clear the bottom of the
 large hole in the heads.  The correct ones, with inclined injectors, are a
 bit shorter at the shoulder, and if they don't fit correctly the pre-chamber
 will leak compression at the upper seal, usually badly enough that the
 engine will not run.

 Always use all new head bolts, they often fail when re-used, as I
 discovered on my old 300D.


 Peter




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
OK, so did all 87s come with the 14 head and then later some had them replaced? 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:26 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Wow, now that is the answer I was looking for! Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:16 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code -- the 
original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best version is the 
-22- one.

They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or oil 
passages, causing the usual results -- overheating, coolant use, etc.

The head gaskets also fail pretty often, between cylinders and from cooling 
passages or oil return to the outside, resulting in leaks.  Worst failure is 
between the oil passage across the front of the block -- failure here allows 
oil to enter the #1 cylinder under pressure.  If enough gets in there, the #1 
rod gets bent.

All the bits from the -14- head will fit the -22-, with the proviso that it may 
be necessary to machine the pre-chambers to clear the bottom of the large hole 
in the heads.  The correct ones, with inclined injectors, are a bit shorter at 
the shoulder, and if they don't fit correctly the pre-chamber will leak 
compression at the upper seal, usually badly enough that the engine will not 
run.

Always use all new head bolts, they often fail when re-used, as I discovered on 
my old 300D.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread OK Don
Yes. The later heads were also found on later cars - the 350SDL for example.

On Sat, Jul 30, 2011 at 7:55 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 OK, so did all 87s come with the 14 head and then later some had them
 replaced?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:26 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
 wrote:

 Wow, now that is the answer I was looking for! Thank you.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:16 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

 In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code -- the
 original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best version is
 the -22- one.

 They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or oil
 passages, causing the usual results -- overheating, coolant use, etc.

 The head gaskets also fail pretty often, between cylinders and from cooling
 passages or oil return to the outside, resulting in leaks.  Worst failure is
 between the oil passage across the front of the block -- failure here allows
 oil to enter the #1 cylinder under pressure.  If enough gets in there, the
 #1 rod gets bent.

 All the bits from the -14- head will fit the -22-, with the proviso that it
 may be necessary to machine the pre-chambers to clear the bottom of the
 large hole in the heads.  The correct ones, with inclined injectors, are a
 bit shorter at the shoulder, and if they don't fit correctly the pre-chamber
 will leak compression at the upper seal, usually badly enough that the
 engine will not run.

 Always use all new head bolts, they often fail when re-used, as I
 discovered on my old 300D.

 Peter



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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Peter Frederick
That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from  
1984 to 1995 or so.  The original design was part # 14, and it failed  
in service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the  
#17 head on it (nine years later(.


The #14 was used on all OM603 engines sold in the US in 1986 and  
1987, and probably all of them have cracked by now.  If failed in  
normal service, not as a result of overheating, which can crack any  
of them.


I'm not sure which one I had on the old 300D, the current car has had  
it replaced with a newer version.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Michael Canfield
The Escort looking ones are like the e series wagon Kleb is going to look
at.

Mike
On Jul 30, 2011 8:05 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.



 On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head
or
 something?
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 --
 Sent from my mobile device

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Mitch Haley

Michael Canfield wrote:

Not that wagon.  The newer ones, I forget the model but someone was selling
one here not long ago I think.


Ohh, you think the 210 wagon looks like a y2k Escort, not that a 124 wagon looks 
like a 1981 Escort. I guess the round headlights and hood are sort of similar.


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Michael Canfield
Yes, you got it.

Mike
On Jul 30, 2011 10:01 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Michael Canfield wrote:
 Not that wagon. The newer ones, I forget the model but someone was
selling
 one here not long ago I think.

 Ohh, you think the 210 wagon looks like a y2k Escort, not that a 124 wagon
looks
 like a 1981 Escort. I guess the round headlights and hood are sort of
similar.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?

2011-07-30 Thread Mitch Haley

OK Don wrote:

Bottom line, if I didn't see signs of a cracked head, I would not be afraid
of the car.



... but would prefer to see evidence of a recent evaporator replacement.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-17 Thread Max Dillon
Mitch, Thanks!  A little research in the service manuals shows that the same 
tool is used for both OM617 and OM603 engines, so I shall procure the 8x1.25 
grade 12.9 bolt and proceed.  Still need to find the time for all this work 
though...

 Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles
'95 E300 280k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC





From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 2:05:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

Max Dillon wrote:
 I don't have a nice assortment to select from, so I'll need to go buy 
something.  You think it could be between 4, 5 and 6mm?

Oops, it looks like I guessed small. I thought the threaded hole was in the 
pin, 
but it's only in the head of the pin, and is pretty large. Somebody made a 
puller for a 617 with an 8x1.25 bolt. Looks like you run a long bolt into the 
tensioner pin until it bottoms out, then run a nut down on the bolt to extract.
One guy had an 8.8 bolt fail, so he bought a grade 12.9 for more pull before 
failure.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=288848

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[MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Max Dillon
Dieselvolk,

Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin pulling 
tool?  I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and stack 
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0 
or some other dimension?

 Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles
'95 E300 280k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:

Dieselvolk,

Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin pulling 
tool?  I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and stack 
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0 
or some other dimension?


I wouldn't sweat the details too much (but I've got an assortment of 4, 5, and 
6mm bolts laying around already). Just find a bolt that threads in smoothly, 
stick a washer and a socket over it, make sure it goes in 4 threads before it 
gets tight, and crank down on it until you meet resistance or it comes out. (you 
don't want to bottom out on the threads and then keep turning it) If you 
bottomed out, unscrew it and start over with a longer socket or more washers.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Max Dillon
I don't have a nice assortment to select from, so I'll need to go buy 
something.  You think it could be between 4, 5 and 6mm?

 Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 334k miles
'95 E300 280k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC





From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 10:52:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

Max Dillon wrote:
 Dieselvolk,
 
 Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin 
 pulling 
tool?  I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and 
stack 
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0 
or some other dimension?

I wouldn't sweat the details too much (but I've got an assortment of 4, 5, and 
6mm bolts laying around already). Just find a bolt that threads in smoothly, 
stick a washer and a socket over it, make sure it goes in 4 threads before it 
gets tight, and crank down on it until you meet resistance or it comes out. 
(you 
don't want to bottom out on the threads and then keep turning it) If you 
bottomed out, unscrew it and start over with a longer socket or more washers.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal

2011-03-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:
I don't have a nice assortment to select from, so I'll need to go buy 
something.  You think it could be between 4, 5 and 6mm?


Oops, it looks like I guessed small. I thought the threaded hole was in the pin, 
but it's only in the head of the pin, and is pretty large. Somebody made a 
puller for a 617 with an 8x1.25 bolt. Looks like you run a long bolt into the 
tensioner pin until it bottoms out, then run a nut down on the bolt to extract.
One guy had an 8.8 bolt fail, so he bought a grade 12.9 for more pull before 
failure.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=288848

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[MBZ] 87 300TD, how to get rear hatch open

2008-07-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
On my 87 300TD, cant get the hatch open.  IIRC, I dont think they key 
will turn, so Im thinking maybe its stuck in the lock position.  Anybody 
have a way of getting the hatch open?  Anybody BTDT?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD, how to get rear hatch open

2008-07-12 Thread Peter Frederick
Apply pressure to the lock line, that should pop it to the unlock  
position.

Peter


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[MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Frederick W Moir

Needs trans.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
  No Afililliation, not mine (Damm!)
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Dieselitis Maximus 


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Needs trans.
  http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html


Wow, that dark blue looks great with the 16 210 wheels.  Classy.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
I bet that's not all it needs...

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 11:41 AM, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
   Needs trans.
   http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
 

 Wow, that dark blue looks great with the 16 210 wheels.  Classy.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley


Frederick W Moir wrote:
 
 Needs trans.
 http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html

If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Frederick W Moir
Mitch, et al.
I would love to take it for a drive, but I have no budget for another 
car right now. If anyone is seriously interested, it is in the next 
town, close by, I could take pics, and kick tyres.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

  http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html

If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
I wonder if I should sell my 1983 (282 K miles) 300TD, which needs about
$1500 in rust repair, or should I fix it up and keep it.  I would like an 87
300TD if I could find a nice one that doesn't cost the earth.  I imagine I
could get between $1500 and $2K for my wagon as is.  Anybody willing to
impart some advice?

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 12:14 PM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Mitch, et al.
 I would love to take it for a drive, but I have no budget for another
 car right now. If anyone is seriously interested, it is in the next
 town, close by, I could take pics, and kick tyres.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA

   http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
 
 If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
 that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Same old story Andrew. Rust never ends and putting $ into an old car is seldom 
profitable. If you are already
thinking you want something else then it is likely not a good plan to spend 
more on your existing car - unless you
are certain you will increase its value to where you will at least break even 
and hopefully even profit somewhat.

Randy who has the same issues with a 4Runner

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 11:22 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD


I wonder if I should sell my 1983 (282 K miles) 300TD, which needs about
$1500 in rust repair, or should I fix it up and keep it.  I would like an 87
300TD if I could find a nice one that doesn't cost the earth.  I imagine I
could get between $1500 and $2K for my wagon as is.  Anybody willing to
impart some advice?

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 12:14 PM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Mitch, et al.
 I would love to take it for a drive, but I have no budget for another
 car right now. If anyone is seriously interested, it is in the next
 town, close by, I could take pics, and kick tyres.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA

   http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
 
 If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
 that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.





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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-14 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
They are WAY overpriced.  Better off just buying a 300TE instead and 
saving alot of cash.

carbucks wrote:
 Hi,
 
 While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our 
 lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some 
 list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition. 
 Here's what I've discovered so far.
 
 NADA ranges from $3950 to $8600
 Original MSRP: $42,500
 
   Low Retail 
 http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=21p=1f=5014y=1987m=1115d=6215c=20vi=10197z=98001da=1#
  
   Average Retail Value 
 http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=21p=1f=5014y=1987m=1115d=6215c=20vi=10197z=98001da=1#
  
   High Retail 
 http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=21p=1f=5014y=1987m=1115d=6215c=20vi=10197z=98001da=1#
  
 
 Base Price$3,950  $5,150  $8,600
 TOTAL PRICE   $3,950  $5,150 
 http://www.nadaguides.com/LinkTracker.aspx?itemid=50361LI=1-21-1-5014-708-745-50361l=1w=21p=20f=5605xq=price-5150*
  
   $8,600
 
 
 Ebay Buy Now prices are currently in the $10 000 range.
 
 Autotrader and cars.com listed prices range from $7000 to $13500
 
 Martin
 
 
  
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  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
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  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-14 Thread Mitch Haley
carbucks wrote:
 
 Sounds like you got a lemon. Sold both my 2000 Jetta TDI and 2004 Golf
 TDI after a couple of years of ownership and no maintenance hassle for
 just slightly below what I paid for them new (exempting taxes).

That's exactly my problem with them. Asking prices for 3-4 year old
cars with 80-100k on them look like what I might be willing to pay
for a new car.

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[MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread carbucks
Hi,

While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our 
lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some 
list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition. 
Here's what I've discovered so far.

NADA ranges from $3950 to $8600
Original MSRP: $42,500

Low Retail 
http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=21p=1f=5014y=1987m=1115d=6215c=20vi=10197z=98001da=1#
 
Average Retail Value 
http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=21p=1f=5014y=1987m=1115d=6215c=20vi=10197z=98001da=1#
 
High Retail 
http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0l=1w=21p=1f=5014y=1987m=1115d=6215c=20vi=10197z=98001da=1#
 

Base Price  $3,950  $5,150  $8,600
TOTAL PRICE $3,950  $5,150 
http://www.nadaguides.com/LinkTracker.aspx?itemid=50361LI=1-21-1-5014-708-745-50361l=1w=21p=20f=5605xq=price-5150*
 
$8,600


Ebay Buy Now prices are currently in the $10 000 range.

Autotrader and cars.com listed prices range from $7000 to $13500

Martin


 
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread John Robbins
carbucks wrote:
 While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our 
 lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some 
 list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition. 
 Here's what I've discovered so far.

There were less than 2000 of those cars imported, and the wagon style is 
very sought after... so prices are all over the place.  One in *nice* 
condition in Washington state will fetch 10k.  Most ones in good 
condition seem to go for 5-7k (outside of WA).  Most people on this list 
are known for being on the 'thrifty' side, and they probably wouldn't 
buy one at those crazy eBay prices.

FWIW, I bought one in fair condition on the AL coast for $3200.  I've 
since bought $2k worth of parts I'm slowly putting in.

http://starquake.ath.cx/mercedes/300TD/images/

John


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread John Robbins
carbucks wrote:
 So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about half 
 the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add up. Factor in 
 rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to maintain the Benz and 
 the arithmetic is even less in favor of the Benz.

Do you do your own work or do you have a mechanic do most of it?  Old 
Mercedes are a very good value if you do all or a lot of the work 
yourself, but they get expensive real quick if you have a mechanic take 
care of everything.  There are a LOT of little things that can go wrong 
on these cars, and if you want everything to work perfectly you are 
absolutely correct that the older MB will cost more to maintain.  That 
being the case, there is still something to be said about the quality 
and drivability of an MB over a VW!

If you would like to find out more about the VWs check out TDI Club. 
There is a very large following of those TDIs, and there is quite a bit 
of good information there as well.

www.tdiclub.com


HTH!
John


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread dave walton
You might want to figure in to your equation that you can get early
90's E320 gas wagons in pristine condition for ~$2k. They will have
all wheel drive too. They take premium.

-Dave Walton

On Feb 13, 2008 2:16 PM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Thanks, John. Nice looking TD.

 Fuel is the other cost I'm factoring in. According to
 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/3565.shtml the 300td will get up
 to 25 mpg and for 15000 annual miles @ $3/gal cost you $2239 per year.

 For a few thousand more, I can pick up a Jetta Wagon TDI  ($mid-teens)
 which according to
 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/2008car1tablef.jsp?id=19905 gets up to 42
 mpg and costs $1407 per year.

 So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about half
 the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add up. Factor in
 rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to maintain the Benz and
 the arithmetic is even less in favor of the Benz.

 Unless, of course, I can find one like yours. :-)

 Martin


 John Robbins wrote:
  carbucks wrote:
 
  While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our
  lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some
  list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition.
  Here's what I've discovered so far.
 
 
  There were less than 2000 of those cars imported, and the wagon style is
  very sought after... so prices are all over the place.  One in *nice*
  condition in Washington state will fetch 10k.  Most ones in good
  condition seem to go for 5-7k (outside of WA).  Most people on this list
  are known for being on the 'thrifty' side, and they probably wouldn't
  buy one at those crazy eBay prices.
 
  FWIW, I bought one in fair condition on the AL coast for $3200.  I've
  since bought $2k worth of parts I'm slowly putting in.
 
  http://starquake.ath.cx/mercedes/300TD/images/
 
  John
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread carbucks
Thanks, John. Nice looking TD.

Fuel is the other cost I'm factoring in. According to 
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/3565.shtml the 300td will get up 
to 25 mpg and for 15000 annual miles @ $3/gal cost you $2239 per year.

For a few thousand more, I can pick up a Jetta Wagon TDI  ($mid-teens) 
which according to 
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/2008car1tablef.jsp?id=19905 gets up to 42 
mpg and costs $1407 per year.

So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about half 
the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add up. Factor in 
rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to maintain the Benz and 
the arithmetic is even less in favor of the Benz.

Unless, of course, I can find one like yours. :-)

Martin

John Robbins wrote:
 carbucks wrote:
   
 While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our 
 lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some 
 list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition. 
 Here's what I've discovered so far.
 

 There were less than 2000 of those cars imported, and the wagon style is 
 very sought after... so prices are all over the place.  One in *nice* 
 condition in Washington state will fetch 10k.  Most ones in good 
 condition seem to go for 5-7k (outside of WA).  Most people on this list 
 are known for being on the 'thrifty' side, and they probably wouldn't 
 buy one at those crazy eBay prices.

 FWIW, I bought one in fair condition on the AL coast for $3200.  I've 
 since bought $2k worth of parts I'm slowly putting in.

 http://starquake.ath.cx/mercedes/300TD/images/

 John


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread R A Bennell
There is also a Passat wagon which would be a bit bigger than the Jetta.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of dave walton
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 1:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices


I changed a transmission on a 2001 Jetta TDI. It was the job from
hell. I much prefer working on Mercedes. You need a computer just to
check the transmission fluid level.
The VW's are very light and tinny in my opinion. Although with 6 air
bags they might have a safety advantage depending on the
circumstances.

-Dave Walton

On Feb 13, 2008 2:40 PM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I do my own. Have two 300SDs. What I'm finding is they are taking up
 more and more of my time.

 I've had both VWs and Mercedes as well as BMWs. They share a number of
 qualities. The VWs are less expensive to maintain and very few get close
 to their mpg.

 Martin


 John Robbins wrote:
  Do you do your own work or do you have a mechanic do most of it?  Old
  Mercedes are a very good value if you do all or a lot of the work
  yourself, but they get expensive real quick if you have a mechanic take
  care of everything.  There are a LOT of little things that can go wrong
  on these cars, and if you want everything to work perfectly you are
  absolutely correct that the older MB will cost more to maintain.  That
  being the case, there is still something to be said about the quality
  and drivability of an MB over a VW!
 
  If you would like to find out more about the VWs check out TDI Club.
  There is a very large following of those TDIs, and there is quite a bit
  of good information there as well.
 
  www.tdiclub.com
 
 
  HTH!
  John
 
 
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  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread dave walton
I changed a transmission on a 2001 Jetta TDI. It was the job from
hell. I much prefer working on Mercedes. You need a computer just to
check the transmission fluid level.
The VW's are very light and tinny in my opinion. Although with 6 air
bags they might have a safety advantage depending on the
circumstances.

-Dave Walton

On Feb 13, 2008 2:40 PM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I do my own. Have two 300SDs. What I'm finding is they are taking up
 more and more of my time.

 I've had both VWs and Mercedes as well as BMWs. They share a number of
 qualities. The VWs are less expensive to maintain and very few get close
 to their mpg.

 Martin


 John Robbins wrote:
  Do you do your own work or do you have a mechanic do most of it?  Old
  Mercedes are a very good value if you do all or a lot of the work
  yourself, but they get expensive real quick if you have a mechanic take
  care of everything.  There are a LOT of little things that can go wrong
  on these cars, and if you want everything to work perfectly you are
  absolutely correct that the older MB will cost more to maintain.  That
  being the case, there is still something to be said about the quality
  and drivability of an MB over a VW!
 
  If you would like to find out more about the VWs check out TDI Club.
  There is a very large following of those TDIs, and there is quite a bit
  of good information there as well.
 
  www.tdiclub.com
 
 
  HTH!
  John
 
 
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  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Feb 13, 2008 11:33 AM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Good point. They get similar fuel mileage to the older diesels and have
 better performance. The 300SDs are fine on the highway, but have trouble
 keeping up with some city traffic.


Martin, have you driven an early-'90s diesel Jetta wagon?  Based on my
experience with a 2001 New Beetle TDI I'd say the opposite would be
true of them, for what it's worth---they are great city cars with
plenty of zip right off the line (mostly due to the
variable-displacement turbo, I think), but run out of steam fast on
the highway.  Also, as John R. pointed out, the driveability and feel
are quite different.  I would much rather take my W124 on a long trip
than any VW---the seats are better and road noise is less despite
20-year-old door seals!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread carbucks
Good point. They get similar fuel mileage to the older diesels and have 
better performance. The 300SDs are fine on the highway, but have trouble 
keeping up with some city traffic.

Martin

dave walton wrote:
 You might want to figure in to your equation that you can get early
 90's E320 gas wagons in pristine condition for ~$2k. They will have
 all wheel drive too. They take premium.

 -Dave Walton

 On Feb 13, 2008 2:16 PM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Thanks, John. Nice looking TD.

 Fuel is the other cost I'm factoring in. According to
 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/3565.shtml the 300td will get up
 to 25 mpg and for 15000 annual miles @ $3/gal cost you $2239 per year.

 For a few thousand more, I can pick up a Jetta Wagon TDI  ($mid-teens)
 which according to
 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/2008car1tablef.jsp?id=19905 gets up to 42
 mpg and costs $1407 per year.

 So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about half
 the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add up. Factor in
 rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to maintain the Benz and
 the arithmetic is even less in favor of the Benz.

 Unless, of course, I can find one like yours. :-)

 Martin


 John Robbins wrote:
 
 carbucks wrote:

   
 While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our
 lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some
 list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition.
 Here's what I've discovered so far.

 
 There were less than 2000 of those cars imported, and the wagon style is
 very sought after... so prices are all over the place.  One in *nice*
 condition in Washington state will fetch 10k.  Most ones in good
 condition seem to go for 5-7k (outside of WA).  Most people on this list
 are known for being on the 'thrifty' side, and they probably wouldn't
 buy one at those crazy eBay prices.

 FWIW, I bought one in fair condition on the AL coast for $3200.  I've
 since bought $2k worth of parts I'm slowly putting in.

 http://starquake.ath.cx/mercedes/300TD/images/

 John


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread carbucks
I do my own. Have two 300SDs. What I'm finding is they are taking up 
more and more of my time.

I've had both VWs and Mercedes as well as BMWs. They share a number of 
qualities. The VWs are less expensive to maintain and very few get close 
to their mpg.

Martin

John Robbins wrote:
 Do you do your own work or do you have a mechanic do most of it?  Old 
 Mercedes are a very good value if you do all or a lot of the work 
 yourself, but they get expensive real quick if you have a mechanic take 
 care of everything.  There are a LOT of little things that can go wrong 
 on these cars, and if you want everything to work perfectly you are 
 absolutely correct that the older MB will cost more to maintain.  That 
 being the case, there is still something to be said about the quality 
 and drivability of an MB over a VW!

 If you would like to find out more about the VWs check out TDI Club. 
 There is a very large following of those TDIs, and there is quite a bit 
 of good information there as well.

 www.tdiclub.com


 HTH!
 John


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Feb 13, 2008 11:45 AM, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I changed a transmission on a 2001 Jetta TDI. It was the job from
 hell.

Wouldn't that be true of any kind of drivetrain work on a
front-wheel-drive car, though?  Everything's all jammed up together
under the hood, after all, not nicely spread out front-to-back as it
should be.  What was especially bad about the VW?  (I ask never having
done or even contemplated any serious repair job on a FWD car, other
than my old Saab 900's which are quite a different beast than the
typical transverse-four-with-transaxle arrangement.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread dave walton
Lack of space. I finally found a use for those stubby drivers that
have been sitting in my toolbox unused.
The 4Matic MB has much more space, but it is just bigger all around.

-Dave Walton

On Feb 13, 2008 3:01 PM, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 On Feb 13, 2008 11:45 AM, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I changed a transmission on a 2001 Jetta TDI. It was the job from
  hell.

 Wouldn't that be true of any kind of drivetrain work on a
 front-wheel-drive car, though?  Everything's all jammed up together
 under the hood, after all, not nicely spread out front-to-back as it
 should be.  What was especially bad about the VW?  (I ask never having
 done or even contemplated any serious repair job on a FWD car, other
 than my old Saab 900's which are quite a different beast than the
 typical transverse-four-with-transaxle arrangement.)

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Zeitgeist
Price a set of rear SLS legs, or #22 head, or evaporator RR for the S124.
My '96 Passat tdi was a rock-solid reliable, economical and fun to drive
car.  Much cheaper to keep than my Mercedes--damn, my Vanagon is even a
helluva lot cheaper to run than the TD.  I think I keep the Merc for purely
sentimental reasons, at this point.

On Feb 13, 2008 12:33 PM, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about
  half the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add
  up. Factor in rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to
  maintain the Benz and the arithmetic is even less in favor of the
  Benz.

 The Jetta will not hold up like the Benz though  Price a new Jetta
 injection pump.

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Allan Streib
carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about
 half the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add
 up. Factor in rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to
 maintain the Benz and the arithmetic is even less in favor of the
 Benz.

The Jetta will not hold up like the Benz though  Price a new Jetta
injection pump.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Allan Streib
Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Price a set of rear SLS legs, or #22 head, or evaporator RR for the
 S124.  My '96 Passat tdi was a rock-solid reliable, economical and
 fun to drive car.  Much cheaper to keep than my Mercedes--damn, my
 Vanagon is even a helluva lot cheaper to run than the TD.  I think I
 keep the Merc for purely sentimental reasons, at this point.

Maybe the later models are more expensive... My W123 is hands-down the
cheapest car I've ever owned, in cost-of-ownership terms.  I do most
of my own work and buy the parts from Rusty though.  I recently bought
a Vanagon too, and I like it, but its engineering is cheap and
amateurish compared to the W123 -- or even compared to my former W110.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Kevin
On Wed, Feb 13, 2008 at 04:08:45PM -0500, Allan Streib wrote:
 Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  Price a set of rear SLS legs, or #22 head, or evaporator RR for the
  S124.  My '96 Passat tdi was a rock-solid reliable, economical and
  fun to drive car.  Much cheaper to keep than my Mercedes--damn, my
  Vanagon is even a helluva lot cheaper to run than the TD.  I think I
  keep the Merc for purely sentimental reasons, at this point.
 
 Maybe the later models are more expensive... My W123 is hands-down the
 cheapest car I've ever owned, in cost-of-ownership terms.  I do most
 of my own work and buy the parts from Rusty though.  I recently bought
 a Vanagon too, and I like it, but its engineering is cheap and
 amateurish compared to the W123 -- or even compared to my former W110.

Having W123, W124, W201, and an A2 jetta, the jetta blows them all away in
terms of how cheap it is to keep on the road. The W123 was a neglected car,
so it's probably not a fair comparison. The W124 and S124 were far FAR more
expensive than them all.

No doubt, the mercedes is a better put together car, but you pay the price
for it.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Allan Streib
Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Having W123, W124, W201, and an A2 jetta, the jetta blows them all
 away in terms of how cheap it is to keep on the road. The W123 was a
 neglected car, so it's probably not a fair comparison. The W124 and
 S124 were far FAR more expensive than them all.

I had an A2 Jetta as well, and agree it was pretty cheap as far as
repairs and maintenance go, but I bought it new at about 4 times what
I paid for my 300D, and I financed it.  So that killed the cost of
ownership numbers for me.  I'm pretty sure a 20 year old Jetta would
have cost me more than my W123 to own, they just are not built to last
that long.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread carbucks
Hi Alex,

I've had both a 2000 Jetta TDI and a 2004 Golf TDI . Much preferred the 
Golf. Bought it new in the east (cheaper there) and drove it across the 
country. In 2004 they got a bump in horsepower. That engine has about 
the same amount of torque as the VR6.

My wife drove it 200 km a day five days a week and found it to be far 
more comfortable than either of my 300SDs. Plus with the five speed, you 
could out accelerate most vehicles away from the stop light. She still 
misses it.

Martin
Two 300SDs
Missing the TDIs more and more as I write about this

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On Feb 13, 2008 11:33 AM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Good point. They get similar fuel mileage to the older diesels and have
 better performance. The 300SDs are fine on the highway, but have trouble
 keeping up with some city traffic.

 

 Martin, have you driven an early-'90s diesel Jetta wagon?  Based on my
 experience with a 2001 New Beetle TDI I'd say the opposite would be
 true of them, for what it's worth---they are great city cars with
 plenty of zip right off the line (mostly due to the
 variable-displacement turbo, I think), but run out of steam fast on
 the highway.  Also, as John R. pointed out, the driveability and feel
 are quite different.  I would much rather take my W124 on a long trip
 than any VW---the seats are better and road noise is less despite
 20-year-old door seals!

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread Kevin
Another possibility, depending on where you live, is to get one with some 
rust. The rust drops the value of the car GREATLY, and if you're in an area
where a rusty car won't really get worse, it's fine for a driver. My 85 190D
was such a car, and was really a bargain for what it was. What got expensive
on that car was rebuilding the suspension on it when it got close to 200k
miles, followed by a busted ball joint in the front. Granted, I did most of
the work myself, but there were a LOT of parts I had to replace on it while
doing the job. It was a five speed, so it was worth the time and money, or so
I told myself.

I do still have the two 87s, one D that got sideswiped and one rusty TD that
needs a head/head gasket, that I've been toying with letting go, but unless
you're somewhat near Sacramento, CA, the logistics might be a little screwy.
And no, I'm not letting them go for $500 for the pair (or even $500 each),
so all you bottomfeeders out there, don't try. ;)

On Wed, Feb 13, 2008 at 11:16:42AM -0800, carbucks wrote:
 So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about half 
 the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add up. Factor in 
 rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to maintain the Benz and 
 the arithmetic is even less in favor of the Benz.
 
 Unless, of course, I can find one like yours. :-)

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices

2008-02-13 Thread carbucks
That's why I'm looking at a Jetta wagon TDI that's a few years old. The 
largest part of the depreciation is gone and it will be good for another 
ten years or so. By that time I'll have saved enough on fuel (over the 
Benz) to buy another one.

I have an '82 Jetta that I bought brand new. At 300k+ the body and 
original engine are still good, though I had to replace the head at 80K 
because I burned the valves following the idiot upshift light (remember 
those?) . However, it was the electrics that consigned it to a moldering 
death in my yard. The electrics did get better in 83. I have an 83 Jetta 
Turbo diesel that still going strong.

Martin

Allan Streib wrote:
 Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

   
 Having W123, W124, W201, and an A2 jetta, the jetta blows them all
 away in terms of how cheap it is to keep on the road. The W123 was a
 neglected car, so it's probably not a fair comparison. The W124 and
 S124 were far FAR more expensive than them all.
 

 I had an A2 Jetta as well, and agree it was pretty cheap as far as
 repairs and maintenance go, but I bought it new at about 4 times what
 I paid for my 300D, and I financed it.  So that killed the cost of
 ownership numbers for me.  I'm pretty sure a 20 year old Jetta would
 have cost me more than my W123 to own, they just are not built to last
 that long.

 Allan
   
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