There is a C 36 being auctioned this weekend at the Chesapeake Bay
Maritime Museum in St. Michaels Maryland.
I helped bring it down from the northern bay to SM the other day and got to
take a good look at it.
Pretty well equipped - 10 winches, autopilot, wind/speed/depth, gps, RF, all
a bit
Just got my renewal - Chesapeake Bay. Stock boat with folding prop, no
furler, standard sail specs - 174.
Gary #593
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Bushie via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 8:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
This all depends on the region. Chesapeake Bay has nothing like that – I would
qualify with my number 2 genoa….. damn.
Gary
Maryland
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jhnelson via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Having used Poliglow for a number of years, I would support using it. The
major task is to get all the old stuff off the boat, wax, dirt, etc. The
PoliPrep should be used to make sure the surface is not full of blemishes or
oxidation. It should be an even, dull finish if it had been badly
They were still around last year when I bought a new one.
Gary
Maryland
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 11:50 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject:
There should be a little clamp on the cable - can be tightened which
squeezes the cable and keeps it from falling.
Gary
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2016 12:24 PM
To:
Floor stripper (I used Zep Heavy Duty concentrate – mixed stronger than one
would do for floors).
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2016 12:01 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Randy, it is pretty evident that your boom is longer than what the later boats
have. My boom extends only back as far as the wide spots in the coaming where
the winches are mounted. Yours is longer, probably because your boat has
end-boom sheeting. The later boats are sheeted about two feet in
Take a look at the C Brochures on the web site. You will see two versions of
the early 30’s, one with end boom sheeting and the last one (d) with sheeting
forward of the wheel. Maybe the difference is whether you had a tiller or wheel.
Gary
From: CnC-List
If they are gate valves (like a faucet), get rid of them. The likely reason
they broke when you worked on them is they are old and corroded. Replace
them with proper marine parts for your safety.
Gary
30-1
St. Michaels MD
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List
If your 30-1 is like mine, the area where the ‘lower’ pump is barely larger
than a typical bilge pump, about 3 or 4 inches square. I am using a direct pump
down there on its own switch – have to pull the mast and remove the oak block
to get to it.
Gary
#593
From: CnC-List
The forward area is lower (under the mast step) than the aft one by about
eight inches.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2016 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
I have been asked to help deliver a donated C 36 from the Sassafras River
(Georgetown Basin) to St. Michaels.
I looked up the specifications on the web site and get a draft of 5'11".
When I last went through the Narrows, I was marginal with my 5 foot draft.
Are we in trouble? Plus high tides are
On my 30-1, there are chrome plugs about an inch in diameter to cover the
screws which are forward of the interior handrails – and on a 30, the rails are
connected.
Gary
#593
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent:
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth
There was a recent post on SailNet that said it was only 4 feet.
Joel
On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 1:57 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Before you go out and buy a new head or even a rebuild, put some West Marine
Head Lube in it and pump it through. My Jabsco had the same problem. Head Lube
fixed it.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday,
They're connected. The forward one is small, will pump out in a few seconds
by itself, the aft one goes back to the engine compartment. May take a few
minutes with a small pump, but this is what I use to keep everything as dry
as possible (after a rain lets water down the mast, or when the mast
Find someone who has done this before - if the boat is in the water and has
been used but you suspect it wasn't done right, borrow a person with a Loos
Gauge, which is used to check the tension on the wires. There are
instructions on the gauge. My boat is bigger than yours, so my tensions are
On my 1980 version, I assume the 'grounding' system is original. There is a
cast metal box which the mast sits in and which in turn sits on the big oak
block. That box has a battery cable bolted to it which is attached to a keel
bolt. Hope it works.
Gary
#593
-Original Message-
From:
If you decide to donate, CBMM, as Joe said, is a very good place. We auction
(and sell beforehand, there is a listing on the web which people follow)
about 100+ boats a year, and the program is viewed as one of the best.. I am
a small part, mostly just fetching boats, but have been involved for
My 1980 version has a hinged ladder mounted in the center of the transom. When
unfolded, the bottom of the ladder hits the rudder. It has not been a problem,
it just keeps the ladder a bit away from the transom, which is pretty vertical,
maybe a bit sloped in at the bottom, so that is good. The
I replaced the key with a pull switch. All Yanmar keys are the same and the
cylinders are expensive so I eliminated the problem. If I happen to kick the
switch in while the engine is running, it will continue, but the tach will stop
working. Big deal.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List
One item which seems not to be mentioned in this thread is how you have your
genoas rigged. Do you have inboard genoa tracks, because the 30 won’t point if
you are still running the sheets to blocks on the rail. We have inboard tracks
and seem to point well.
Gary
From: CnC-List
I guess I didn't know what I was doing wrong - I had an overheating problem
which was intermittent. The annoying little buzzer would blast away but I
still had water flowing through the system (I guess not quite enough to
satisfy the sensor). After more than a few minutes of this, I turned the key
The 115 is rated 78/81 on the Chesapeake. 78 for spinnaker and 81 for non.
The difference for the one in our fleet is a longer than "J" pole.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Peterson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 10:48 AM
To:
Recommend not to pinch, the boat seems to want to be free. Also, you should
have inboard genoa tracks to help pointing, but need to sheet the genoa
outboard for reaching. My tracks are about four feet aft of the shrouds, in
line with them and are six feet long– I have adjustable cars (Garhauer)
Most all of our races in the mid-Chesapeake area are PHRF TOD.
Gary
St. Michaels MD
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist
You can add a crane to the top of the mast – some have a springy batten or
stainless strap – some are fixed. If you race, it may cause problems with your
handicap. Or, the simplest – just don’t haul the sail all the way up – keep it
down an inch or so and use the Cunningham to firm up the luff.
Does anyone know if the US Sailing PHRF comprehensive list has been taken
down? I have used it many times and now cannot find it.
Thanks, Gary Nylander
Maryland
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what
I have for the last 20 years.. Am taking a small break this year (I share
the 30-1 with the ex-admiral, and have been crewing on a J-24, J-80, but
that one was sold - now I sub for the ex, and crew once in a while on a
J-105). It does break up the week, even for this retiree.
Gary
From:
There was a fellow on the Chesapeake who had a 30 II with a fin keel. I thought
he was rated around 150. His name is Greg Cutter – now sails some sort of hot
rod boat. He’s good. Jake may have contact information as he was on this site
for a number of years.
Gary
Maryland
From:
Our (Chesapeake) PHRF rules do state - must be attached to the mast, must be
less than J length without penalty. No hand holding a stick...
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 5, 2016 8:03 PM
To:
We, often sailing in very light wind, just received a 'windseeker' sail.
Haven't tried it yet, because we had 8-10 on Wednesday (and won). The sail
is attached to the tack, hoisted on its own luff rope, and is high cut - out
of spinnaker cloth. It looks exciting. Our 155% genoa is just too heavy
The last few times I’ve taken the mast out, I have left the straps on. But… I
have not had any work done on the deck or mast step those times.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jhnelson via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 2, 2016 1:49 PM
To:
Wally, I am not a fan of win 10. It appears that Microsoft assumes that all
users are gamers and/or want to join the social media world 100%. It also
appears the office software assumes a dolt of a user who has no idea of how
to compose a letter or much of anything else - in other words they make
My mast wires go down inside the boat – then into the compartment under the
dinette – the connectors are there – been doing the disconnect/connect for 23
years.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 29,
No expert, but…. I put rings on the side of the mast – about six inches above
the deck – for the reaching strut, but don’t have one and never have used one.
The Phrf rules don’t allow you to attach them to anywhere but the mast, by the
way. I have not found a need for a strut, simply because we
I wanted to go to Baltimore a few years ago to see the Indy Car race. Great
marina a block from Camden Yards and the temporary race track. Built a platform
for the foredeck to hold an extra window A/C we happened to have sitting
around. Opened the hatch and fabricated sides to keep the air
When my fuel tank sprung a leak, the boatyard let me dump my almost full tank
into their crane. “It’ll burn anything”…
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2017 12:25 PM
To: C List
I used the void filling technique. Also built new covers as mine were plastic
and cracked.
Gary
#593
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 5:48 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
My friend who finished second overall and first in class at last year's
Newport to Bermuda race sprayed his bottom (Cal 40). Used a number of thin
coats of some expensive new paint. We have also sprayed Balto-plate. I think
Vivid may work with a sprayer, as it is rather thin. Talk to the vendors.
The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum has a C 38 II (1977) for sale. It is very
well equipped, but needs running rigging updates and a new cabin floor and some
TLC.. Rigged for racing and cruising with bags of new and near-new sails. Good
running diesel.
They are asking for $15.5K, but are
Have you looked at Stu’s list of owners? I thought there were more of us on
that. By the way, my #593 is named “Penniless” – wheel, traveler moved to
bridgedeck. A poster on this list named Curtis has one in the 600’s down in the
Carolina’s.
Gary
From: CnC-List
Finish first. A’ one’ in low point scoring.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 7:56 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Re: Stus-List RC issues.
Do any of you have or know of an early Nexus Multi instrument? One of mine
decided to freeze on depth ignoring all else. Would like to replace it.
Gary Nylander
gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our
Head Lube from West Marine.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2016 4:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List toilet lubrication
I've been using
I have a leaky aluminum diesel tank on Penniless, my 30-1. I recall a thread
about sources, but it like a bunch of other stuff went bye-bye when my hard
drive failed.
Any good sources?
Thanks, Gary
___
This list is supported by the generous
re's a video of the boat docking contest in Solomons 2015. I posted it
earlier and jokingly said it was Dennis expertly handling his boat.
https://youtu.be/rOCk8V0uee8
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 27, 2016 10:20 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@
The 30-1's have a shaft which is offset to port. I assume that was for one
or two reasons. First, to minimize prop walk in forward? And for ease of
getting the shaft out without dropping the (rather heavy) rudder.
No fun to back the boat. I start way early and drive it backward slowly and
then
I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
my old hard drive which cratered... can anyone give me the best source?
Thanks, Gary
___
This
ant
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
Dennis C.
On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we use
to bed
When I was replacing the little plastic covers that C put over the chainplate
holes, I discovered the chainplates were not the same distance from the mast or
from the rails. I had to relocate the starboard plate by and inch…. Monday boat?
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List
Our PHRF rules give you 3 seconds/mile for a fixed prop. I didn’t think that
was enough, so went with a flex-o-fold.
On the mast step, I have three cross members under the oak block (which looks
just like yours) but do not have that big oak block assembly at all. I think
some previous owner
On my 1980 version, the hull/deck joint has an internal flange which is bolted.
Then the L shaped toe rail is bolted on top of that.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Violeta
Ivanova via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 9:09 AM
To:
I got a quote for on piece of toe rail from South Shore, that is Rob. It is an
exact replacement for the bow piece of my rail, and is 15.5 feet long. I would
take the old one off and look before spending the not trivial amount on a new
one, you may have leaks because the original 40 year old
My rather old Grady White boat (auction item) came with a Garmin antenna and
long cable. My chartplotters (172C – one of which quit acquiring satellites, so
I got another off eBay – then the old one started working again) have their own
antennas. If you want my antenna, it is yours. Send a
Owning a 30, the only way that thing, even without a boom, could go 12 knots is
off a cliff.
Gar
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba,
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2016 9:53 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
that follows the hull shape I have a
recommendation.
Allen Miles
Hampton, VA
On Wed, Oct 26, 2016 at 7:20 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
I have a leaky aluminum diesel tank on Penniless, my 30-1. I recall a thread
ab
Around here (mid-Chesapeake) we have a number of festivals featuring watermen
handling their work boats in docking contests. To watch these guys spin and
back 40+ foot single screw boats should humiliate all of us….. they are
impressive, even the teenagers.
Gary
From: CnC-List
I have organized and run many Pursuit races. They are a great way of relieving
the tension at the start line and can be fun and exciting at the finish.
First, you must know the course length, then calculate the time offset for each
boat’s handicap. I can give examples – best offline.
The later30-1’s have a holding tank directly behind the toilet, in the
compartment under the sliding plastic doors. Factory item, looks like it was
built in, with a Y valve under the sink going to a thru hull, also under the
sink, and diverting to the holding tank. Pump out fitting is on the
I pretty much agree with Joel for the features on this one. Having had
experience with both high-tech laminates(2) and dacron (2) in the past 20+
years, I would go with the dacron option as well. The high tech stuff will
keep its shape until it doesn’t, and then it delaminates – and you have
I was led to believe the reason for removing the impeller was to not have it in
a single position for a number of months – it could take a set and not work
correctly. I did that religiously for a few years and then stopped bothering
after seeing no ‘set’. I change it every couple of years
I take a spare battery and check all the lights when the mast is still on the
sawhorses. Also, my connection is inside the boat – under the dinette seat. I
have replaced the connection block as it was getting rather corroded. It sounds
like your mast is deck stepped.
Gary
30-1
My 1980 version has a 2QM15. Raw water cooled. The GM’s came later.
Gary
Waiting for the freeze in Maryland
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 10:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
The ‘hanging knees’ on Penniless are made of plywood. I re-drilled one when I
moved the chainplate because it was not symmetrical with the other side. Quite
stout and well tabbed. I don’t seem to have any dimples, but have #593 and a
tan hull.
Gary
From: CnC-List
I disagree. The fact that the blades are geared to each other means that the
blade that would normally drop is being held up by the blade which is on
top. If it quits raining I'll go and prove it.
Gary
30-1
Flex-o-fold also
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List
My 1980 version (#593) has six wedges at the partners. They are about 1 1/2
inches square and have a taper on one side which is about 3/4 inch at the
bottom and stops half way up where it is about 1/2 inch in from the side. -
look a bit like a "J" - and are about 4 to 5 inches long. Mine appear
I have been delighted with my Flex-o-fold for about 15 years or so. Only on a
30-1 with Yanmar.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur
You won’t get much bend on a 30-1. The mast is a telephone pole. I have had
many experienced sailors and sailmakers on mine and the usual comment is all
you are going to do is stiffen up the forestay when you haul on the backstay. I
have a 4:1 purchase on a vang-like split backstay adjuster. I
Paint thinner worked for me.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 7:36 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape
I vote for plastic, even if you have to do some cutting. My 1980 boat had
the original aluminum tank which worked great until, at the end of last year
when I noticed a bit of red liquid in the area around the tank. It has now
been recycled somewhere because it had many small pinholes in its
Randy and Lee….
The tree stump that C designed for the 30-1 is super stiff. Pre bend is
pretty much fiction. I have a 4 to 1 backstay adjuster on my split backstay and
the only thing it does when I haul on it as hard as possible is stiffen the
forestay. Randy, you should go with your plan
As I share the same design (30-1) with you and have that really deep sump right
under the mast, I have agonized over this issue a bunch. First, you have to get
all the water out or your sump will always be wet and your mast step will
degrade. Second, if you come up with a good way to install a
I agree with you. The three supports on Penniless are level, the oak block sits
on them and is level with the floorboards, but about 3/8 inch higher (I do have
the teak and holly sole, which some of the earlier boats did not have). When my
mast is in its normal position, the base sits in the
Can you get a flat ratchet wrench in there? All you need for swing room is
one click. They have an open end on one end and a box (ratcheting) on the
other. I got mine at Sears, but I've seen them at Lowe's and elsewhere.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
+1 on Mainecruising for Bed-it.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2017 8:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best source for
With tracks directly behind the shrouds, my 30-1 ‘s 155% genoa hits the
spreader and shroud at about the same time. I think that seven degrees on a
rather wide boat is pushing it, it seems the boat is not able to respond.
Just my experience.
Gary
#593
From: CnC-List
I have long tracks which start about two feet aft of the shrouds and are even
with them across-wise. They are about eight feet long. The 140+/- sheets near
the forward end of the gate and the 155 sheets mid-to aft in the gate. The clew
of the ‘working jib’ which may be original to the 1980 boat
There are a lot of sources for ‘fein’ tools, such as Lowe’s and I’m sure Home
Depot. I got one at Harbor Freight, figuring it will outlive me for the few
cuts I will use it for.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday,
Get one of those little stoves that restaurants use for heating things at the
table. I am afraid you may be disappointed with the Corinthians. I have heard
that most of them have big fast cruisers….. I am staying with PHRF just
because. I’ll check after the Annapolis to St. Michaels race and
Just did mine yesterday. You most likely have a 7/8”shaft (assuming the Yanmar
2QM15 engine). You will need ¼” square packing and as was said, three wraps.
The stuff the prop specialist sold me is GTU, which is black and a fiber
product. There are others, but this stuff is really slippery. It
Tom, which pump did you buy? I am in the same situation as you and Michael
Brown – little room for a pump (30-1). Water collects down there and helps
soften the mast step, which is not good. I managed to get a small Rule pump in
the sump when the mast was out - which is working OK (with a check
Thanks. I did get the list as well.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of O'Keeffe
Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: O'Keeffe Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2
What kind of bilge pump do you have now? And where is it? My 30-1 had an
original equipment Whale Gusher hand pump with a 1 ½ inch hose going to the
mast area of the bilge and the exit hose exiting out of the port side just
under the rub rail in the area near the winch. I added an electric pump in
I think I like the earlier version better than my 1980.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 11:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re:
I agree about it being overrated, unless you have a real tender boat where
the crew has to be on the rail at all times. I put one on my 30-1 and it was
almost useless in our light air conditions. The wind was often too light to
allow the windward sheeting capability to work. I am racing on a C 115
rimmer?
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/ca
I have never even considered removing the headliner on my 1980 30-1. The grab
rails are attached on the lower side of the headliner, so you don't have to
remove it. I have been able to get at everything else with fish tapes from the
little panels.
On the smile, we all have one. If the bolts
I have had a 1980 version #593 for 24 years and I have had some of the
issues you mentioned. Some deck crazing near stanchions where I believe
previous owners (and maybe my boat partner and maybe myself) have put too
much stress on the stanchion (docking by feel). A small chainplate leak,
fixed by
I used two runs of the Compass Marine butyl, one next to the other. No
leaks. Also wrapped a little butyl around the head of the bolt, to assure no
water would get down the bolt hole.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jesse A.
Rieber via CnC-List
Sent:
I used to go up to Baltimore each Labor day weekend for the Indy Car races.
Hot.. I took a small 120v window unit and built a platform for the foredeck
to mount it over the hatch with a couple of side pieces (and a little duct
tape). Stuffed enough air in there to keep the cabin cool. As it came
I put a bail on the boom about half way back. The clip on the preventer line
goes from that, forward to a snatch block on the rail just in front of the
shrouds, and then back to a cleat mounted on the cabin top. In my opinion, the
preventer is to prevent a swinging boom, not to stop one. When
Welcome to the 30-1 club! We have a great group and cover 30's from hull number
1 to the mid 600's, and few of us are shy about what we have done to keep our
boats out there.
You will enjoy her.
Gary Nylander
#593
St. Michaels Maryland
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List
Looks familiar. Who knows what they stuffed in there, I’ve used many different
‘fixes’ but the keel hasn’t moved and there is no water intrusion.
Best is to grind all that old bottom paint off that area and wrap some
fiberglass around it and bond it. Or use Marine-Tex or something similar
Randy, that is a great write-up. Good work.
Gary
#593
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 5:40 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Mast
My thru-the-mast fitting is located about 3 feet above the spreaders. The
downhaul is mid deck (about 2 feet forward of the cabin) on a folding pad-eye.
I have a block there and the line runs back along the cabin (one fairlead at
the front/side of the dorade box and another at the rear) to a
I didn’t have enough room to pour into the top of the strainer, so put a T in
the input line. It has the benefit of being able to pump the bilge in an
emergency.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday,
I have the split backstay arrangement as well. Probably the yard guys didn’t
push the adjuster up all the way to the split when they were reattaching the
backstays. Just a guess.
Gary
St. Michaels MD
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht
via
Fascinating that the 30E from 1980 looks so much like the US 30-2 from the late
‘80’s. Prototype?
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
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