Re: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material
I think the only way it would be solid, is if the previous owner had it made up aftermarket , and for some reason they put a solid shaft in. But that would be just crazy. Bill On Friday, March 1, 2019 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote: Lake Michigan PHRF is asking whether my rudder shaft is solid stainless or hollow stainless. Any one know with sufficient confidence? 1981 C & C 36 Bill Walker Bill Walker ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Hull windows
I would have to agree with Chuck that it probably isn't a good fit for our boats, but I do like them and they are kind of cool. It is slick to watch the green water flowing by. Some caveats I can think of are compromising the structure of the hull, after all we are bending these boats like a bow and arrow. Another might be getting a good frame for the lens. So that it would be strong enough and tight enough to withstand pounding waves . Those ports are super heavy tempered glass, not acrylic, put in with urethane that sticks like car windows. Which of course holds up and sticks lot better and longer than plexiglass. I am really surprised that a lot of oh, well us, don't replace those windows with tempered glass. There is a place called tempered glass of Prussia, in Pennsylvania that makes custom tempered glass. Bill Coleman C&C 39 On Saturday, February 16, 2019 David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: I was looking through Sail magazine this morning and noticed several boats with windows in the topside hull. It seems to be a growing trend. My general sense of windows is that at some point in their lifetime, they will begin leaking so windows that will be underwater periodically would concern me. Are these windows mounted differently from those in cabin tops to give confidence in their structure or is this a feature to avoid altogether? Dave S/V Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Access
Acid based cleaners. Or you can start with vinegar Bill Coleman C&C 39 On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List wrote: We joined this list a few years ago as Breakaweigh 1, have since sold it and purchased a 35 mk3 , had a question re rust on fibreglass, any tips on removing it! Liz McDonald Rhumb Runner Belfast Maine Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Reaching Strut Pole replacement (now RRS 50.3)
Never thought there was any question to that. If you're using a boat-hook, that is obviously illegal, but as far as you can reach, has always been legal, at least to my recollection. ? Bill On Saturday, December 8, 2018 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: One last thing on this topic: there are two reported cases indicating that a person leaning out holding a sheet is also not an outrigger. From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2018 12:09 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Matthew L. Wolford Subject: Re: Stus-List Reaching Strut Pole replacement (now RRS 50.3) Michael: I assume that you sent your note below about there being no exception for reaching struts before I sent my note about Case 97. I don’t know who decides cases arising under the Rules these days (I used to follow Cases and US Sailing Appeals), but it used to be the ISAF Racing Rules Committee (International Sailing Federation). I believe the organization is now called World Sailing or something. When a Case is decided, that establishes how a Rule is to be interpreted unless there is a contrary US Sailing prescription (on my side of the pond). I assume that Canada has a similar prescription process. After your note about reaching struts yesterday, I searched RacingRulesOfSailing.org to see if any cases had been decided under Rule 50.3 about reaching struts being a prohibited outrigger. I found Case 97, which interpreted the term “outrigger” as used in Rule 50.3 to not prohibit “jockey poles” because they redirect the guy, not a sheet or a sail. A jockey pole is the same thing as a reaching strut, so I do not understand your follow-up comment below that you “have not found an exception.” Case 97 clearly interprets the term “outrigger” as not applying to jockey poles (i.e., reaching struts). Am I missing something? Matt Wolford C&C 42 Custom From: Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Friday, December 07, 2018 5:55 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Subject: Re: Stus-List Reaching Strut Pole replacement The topic of outriggers came up a while back and I asked specifically about any disclaimersfor a reaching strut. I agree that it is a safety and rigging saving consideration as opposed tosomething that improves performance. I have not found an exception so it looks like it fallsunder the outrigger classification. Telling racers that they cannot lean over the lifelines and hold a jib out because outriggersare not permitted usually draws a blank stare also. Somewhat related are other clubs appointing a technical committee in observance ofRRS 60.4? I am the PHRF handicapper at a Toronto club, the National Yacht Club, sotook on that role also. No protests so far, I felt that gentle education of the rules wasrequired first. We have about 200 senior members ( skippers ) and got just over 90PHRF certificates issued this year. Experience levels range from the world championsin the Beneteau First 36.7 OD, first in IRC and LO300 to never have raced before. It makes deciding on what to enforce a bit difficult. Particularly when it doesn't make sense. Michael BrownWindburnC&C 30-1 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.
I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything I have ever used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to get it on your hands for very long. Rubber gloves would help Bill Coleman C&C 39, Erie PA On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote: What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of oil etc. Some of the degreasers seem to be quite corrosive.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?
I got mine from Kracor, almost a perfect fit. You have to do research, or pay more for custom built - Bill Coleman C&C 39 On Thursday, November 15, 2018 Richard Bush wrote: Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? Thanks Richard s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: coltrek--- via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: colt...@verizon.net Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel? In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have fabricated stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank. My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back. The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a new plastic tank.Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie PA Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?
In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have fabricated stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank. My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back. The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a new plastic tank. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie PA On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List wrote: Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on. Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the last couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an explosion/fire when the welding begins. I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time. And remember, the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32- #277 Halifax, N.S. Chapter two, This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge. I bought a new 30 gallon plastic tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter. This will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should be good for another 30 plus years. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Winter cover frame - Frame Maker Clamps
I tried a different idea last year. I made 20 some brackets that just clipped onto the toe rail and each slot. A piece of tubing was welded straight up at that point. Then I bought several lengths of three quarter inch plastic conduit, put them over the upright tubing, straightforward up and then arched over the boat. In my case over the laid down mast. Worked pretty good. I would have to do a little more support for the snow that we had last December. Fortunately, I put it on just after that, so it didn't crush the plastic tubing. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie On Thursday, October 4, 2018 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote: Have been surfing for an affordable way to build a better winter frame, came across framemakerclamps.com. Anyone have any experience with these clamps? Frame is built with 3/4 inch EMT, adjustable angle cross and tee clamps, looks pretty good in the pictures. Thoughts appreciated. Brad "Pulse" 1985 C&C 33/2 Lake Huron Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~ ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on my C&C 37+
You can't put a price on cold beer in the summer. Edd, yes it should make a little noise. Is it air cooled or water cooled? What make? Bill Coleman C&C 39 On Monday, August 6, 2018 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: I have an old Adler Barbour Cold Machine. It stopped working, and I debated replacement. Instead, I called a technician who has developed a niche business fixing this type of thing. He discovered that one of the wires leading to the circuit board (looks like a computer motherboard) which runs the compressor had worked itself loose, and that a spark had fried a fuse that I didn’t even know existed. $150, and I’m back in business (at least until the next issue). Avoiding the hassle of installing a new system, even if only for a season or two, is worth $150 to me. From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 06, 2018 11:53 AM To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Cc: Edd Schillay Subject: Stus-List Refrigeration on my C&C 37+ Listers, After some work, I was able to get the wiring reconnected to the refrigerator on the Enterprise. The thermostat now lights up and I see different LEDs go on and off, though nobody, including the manufacturer, knows what the lights mean anymore. So here are some questions, cause I’m not feeling the cold-plate get cold after a while. . . 1. Does it need a warm-up time to get going? 2. Should it be making noise (mine is silent both inside the chest and at the “guts” in the aft cabin)? I’m worried that the compressor motor is seized. 3. Is it worth getting a marine refrigeration guy out there to check it out or am I really just better off ripping the whole thing out and starting fresh? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos
Where do you find all those energetic Young Bucks? And great cinematographers too, by the way! Nice job.! That would be a great race to do - on someone else's boat! Bill Coleman C&C 39 On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote: You may be entertained these YouTube videos one of my crewmembers made of the Bermuda Race with me on Masquerade, the boat that replaced my treasured C&C 40. https://youtu.be/_hFRocpOT6I Andy Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Jul 25, 2018, at 16:05, James Bibb via CnC-List wrote: Im with you! Janes Bibb C&C 34-36r Darwin’s Folly Sent from my iPhone On Jul 25, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List wrote: Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously through others' YouTube videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold ones) My favorites are: S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super Miramu 2000 with 6 aboardAbandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalismAnother Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's infancySailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer catamaran donated by the manufacturerSailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-itMore daily... Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so there's that. More cruising soon. Anyone else? -- Tim Rutherford C&C 36 KCB Chamamé DIYC Tampa, FL ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Marina North of NYC
Thanks Chuck and Edd- shore power may be an issue, looks like Mansion Marina may be the ticket Bill On Wednesday, May 23, 2018 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Nyack Boat Club has 6 guest moorings with launch service in season. 10’ draft. Reserve on Dockwa. It’s north of NYC by several miles though.. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List On Behalf Of coltrek--- via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 1:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: colt...@verizon.net Subject: Stus-List Marina North of NYC Can anyone recommend a deep draft marina north of New York City? Or maybe (Less than the $5 foot @ Liberty Landing ) Bill Coleman C&C 39 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Marina North of NYC
Can anyone recommend a deep draft marina north of New York City? Or maybe (Less than the $5 foot @ Liberty Landing ) Bill Coleman C&C 39 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Wax
No, it's a polymer. And I don't claim to understand the difference between a wax and a polymer, but it's supposed to be better. And although I am using Poli Glow, when I recommended this to my buddy, he was quite astounded when he came back through the canal, and did not have a mustache. Everybody with wax on gelcoat will have a mustache. But it just did not stick to Rejex . And he was sold. Poli Glow is an acrylic. It's kind of a heavy build up as someone else just mentioned. I just stripped mine last year and started over . Poli Glow is where you go when your gelcoat coat is too old for a wax or polymer. Bill Coleman C&C 39 On Sunday, April 22, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax Rejex. http://rejex.com/marine/ http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1 6-oz-/14823.uts Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to swears by it. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Stus-List Wax Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure that would work for gel coat. Cheers Andy Formerly, C&C 40 Peregrine Now, Baltic 47 Masquerade Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal
Josh, I did not mean to slam you in any way. My point is simply this: I just think it's better to prevent, than to treat a problem. There isn't a hose on my boat below the water line that I can't look at with confidence and walk away. If I felt I had to close the through hull for any reason, I would want to know why, and fix it.. That's all. Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Date: 2/17/18 22:06 (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal For anybody concerned about burning up the engine. We hang the key on the through hull. We also got a SpeedSeal Life and a Globe Run Dry impeller. http://www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/SpeedsealLife.html https://www.gcsmarine.com/content/impellers/impellers As for the warm beer... I can only advocate for the merits of an air cooled refrigerator. Josh On Feb 17, 2018 9:44 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" wrote: I am so flakey, I know that if I closed all my through hulls I would invariably forget to open them, and either burn up my engine, have warm beer, or some other malady , so I just put new hoses on and check the clamps. Which isn’t a bad idea anyway. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:45 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal As for old hoses that's why it is so important to close your through hulls when away from the boat. Josh On Feb 17, 2018 4:32 PM, "Len Mitchell via CnC-List" wrote: I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago when I replaced my cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the vent hose, it came with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air out on launch and if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly hear a chirping noise and burp it again but that is infrequent if at all. I know they are supposed to be replaced as a precaution but I inspect it often and it looks like new. The motor seldom gets used other than to clear the dock so it hasn’t got many hours on it. If I were doing it again, I would just replace the hose and use new packing. Like others have said, the shaft seal isn’t the only source of water in the bilge so fwiw I wouldn’t bother if I were doing it again. BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5 worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? Crazy Legs has 3 sink drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the hoses and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way. Len Mitchell SV Crazy Legs 1989 37 + Midland On Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts
Put a garboard drain in the lowest part of your bilge. Just keep it open in the winter so anything that gets in drains out. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Brien Sadler via CnC-List Date: 2/12/18 16:38 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brien Sadler Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts The only reason I worry about the mast leak is water in the bilge in the winter. It’s probably from being a submariner for close to 20 years, that in my mind water in the bilge is a big “No No”. I don’t want it turning to ice and causing problems. I have a bottle that catches most of the water that drips to the mast step, but when we have a couple of deluge days like we had yesterday in CT the bottle over flows into the bilge. I poured a little anti-freeze in the bilge at the beginning of the season to keep any over flow from freezing, and that worked pretty well. Since it was warm out today I vacuumed everything out and it’s dry but who knows in the next 2-3 months how many more 3-4 inches of rain days we’re going to have. Any other suggestions on rain water in the bilge and how to deal with it in the winter would be great. Also, I think I’m going to leave the keel bolts just like they are and inspect on a regular basis. They seem to be fine and the previous owners left them that way and they seemed to know what they were doing. So I’ll just keep an eye on it. Thanks again. Brien Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain
Or you can take a leap of faith, and cut a hole in the low spot of your deck, and put a little drain in there. I noticed all the newer models had deck drains in them, so I popped two in. I routed the drain hoses back to a T into the cockpit drains. Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: bwhitmore via CnC-List Date: 2/11/18 08:19 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: bwhitmore Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain I have used natural sponge cut & inserted in strategic spots for nearly 20 years. Really works well. Never tried the rope. Sent from Samsung tablet. Original message From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List Date: 2/10/2018 5:02 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: captain_j...@cox.net Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain Christian, Water pooling on the side decks is an issue, along with the black streaks that seem to radiate from the toe rail. I have seen others use small pieces of sponge or cotton rope to let the water wick over the side. I would certainly try this before cutting into the toe rail. Give it a shot. Jake Jake BrodersenC&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian Planton via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 16:03 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Christian Planton Subject: Stus-List Toe rail water drain Hello everybody, I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding the toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out. I was even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of places "Lifting up" the toe rail to create a path for the water to drain. I get puddles aft on both sides of the cockpit. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. ChristianPlantonPeer GythC&C 34 1980 Saugatuck, CT Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems. Effective immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address plant...@wiltonps.org.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List insurance
I got a quote from BoatUS around the end of September I think, and then when I went to go buy the insurance in December,, it had gone up 35%. Needless to say, I balked and started looking. I got a couple of other quotes in a similar range, and then one quote for around $900 less than the BoatUS original quote. It's crazy. They are obviously trying to pay for that horrendous mess last summer, that had to have cost them hundreds of Millions. But, I'm not in that high-risk area so why should I have to pay the price of paradise when I don't have it? Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List Date: 2/3/18 15:50 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace ahycrace Subject: Stus-List insurance Hello all Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it went up 238$ a pretty big increase. I called to ask why and they said it was nothing on my end rates just went up. I am wondering if everybody else got raised as well? I tried to increase my deductible which is zero, to say 4% or so to lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have a automatic lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero it must stay there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$ for 40k, might have to start shopping, any feedback? Gary K "Liberty" 1976 38' MKll___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"
I'll bet you can count the number of documented vessels in Colorado on one hand ! Bill Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List Date: 1/25/18 17:35 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randy Stafford Subject: Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center" In Colorado, USCG-documented vessels are exempt from the requirement to be registered in the state. http://cpw.state.co.us/Documents/Boating/BoatingRegulations.pdf, pg.28, statute 33-13-103(1)(b). Cheers,Randy On Jan 25, 2018, at 3:30 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List wrote: Same with Washington. State. Just have to display the state sticker on documented vessels. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List Date: 1/25/18 13:40 (GMT-08:00)To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: schiller Subject: Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center" Michigan requires that you display the Michigan Registration sticker on documented boats. You will get a registration number when you register the boat but you do not have to display them. Before I renewed the documentation on Corsair (Redwing 35), I displayed the registration numbers on a plastic panels hung from the bow lifelines. Michigan has now outlawed that so I documented Corsair. I hate putting registration numbers on the fiberglass bow. Grace (C&C 35-3) already had registration numbers on the bow and has never been documented. Interestingly enough, the water cops all think any boat over 25' that doesn't display registration numbers must be documented so they don't check. Even if they aren't displaying the registration sticker. Neil Schiller Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C&C 35, Mark I), Hull #7 New: 1983 C&C 35-3, #028 White Lake, Michigan WLYC On 1/25/2018 4:13 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List wrote: Florida has a wonderful discount for “antique” vessels at least 30 years old. I think I pay $5 a year – as opposed to maybe $135 – because I sail a good old boat. Florida also requires a state decal for federally documented vessels such as mine, by the way. Jack BrennanFormer C&C 25Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl.From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 3:55 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Matthew L. WolfordSubject: Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center" ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 30, 1973 strut problem
Google, buck algonquin strut Bill Original message From: Alfredo Figueroa via CnC-List Date: 1/14/18 09:35 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Alfredo Figueroa Subject: Stus-List C&C 30, 1973 strut problem Hi, I need help, my C&C30 of 1973, has broken the propeller strut (shaft) bracket at the base. I want to buy a new one, but I do not have the model and the posible manufacture. If some one has experience that want to share, it will help me a lot. Attach of a similar problem. Thanks On Jan 12, 2018 9:46 AM, "Alfredo Figueroa" wrote: Hi, I need help, my C&C30 of 1973, has broken the propeller strut (shaft) bracket at the base. I want to buy a new one, but I do not have the model and the posible manufacture. If some one has experience that want to share, it will help me a lot. Attach of a similar problem. Thanks ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List be careful out there!
I am surprised your dehumidifier works at those temperatures. Usually they freeze up around 65 degrees and lower. My daughter and son-in-law lived on their boat for a couple of years in Baltimore. Have pictures of her in a Cossack hat and coats after forgetting to leave the heater on. Pretty darn cold. She loved it tho. Him not so much. You must be a real Viking. BillColeman C&C 39 Original message From: David Morrison via CnC-List Date: 1/10/18 21:59 (GMT-05:00) To: "Della Barba, Joe" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Morrison Subject: Re: Stus-List be careful out there! Living aboard here in New Haven this winter. The agitator (situated at the bow) has been working overtime the past few weeks. Hope to give it a break in the next day or to. Bow is free but ice is rubbing on the rudder. not good. Other than the harbor freezing over living aboard has been easy. Experiencing minimal condensation inside - hull is lined with wood strips and v-berth cushions are dry. I also have a small dehumidifier running non stop. Average inside temp for the past month is 52.0F. --Dave1980 C&C 40 - Terrapin Flyer Original Message Subject: Stus-List be careful out there! From: "Della Barba, Joe" Date: Wed, January 10, 2018 1:34 pm To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" #wmQuoteWrapper /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} #wmQuoteWrapper @font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #wmQuoteWrapper /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, #wmQuoteWrapper li.MsoNormal, #wmQuoteWrapper div.MsoNormal {margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;} #wmQuoteWrapper a:link, #wmQuoteWrapper span.MsoHyperlink {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; text-decoration:underline;} #wmQuoteWrapper a:visited, #wmQuoteWrapper span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; text-decoration:underline;} #wmQuoteWrapper span.im {mso-style-name:im;} #wmQuoteWrapper span.EmailStyle18 {mso-style-type:personal-reply; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; color:#1F497D;} #wmQuoteWrapper .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; font-size:10.0pt;} #wmQuoteWrapper @page WordSection1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #wmQuoteWrapper div.WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} I went down to the boat last night to turn the ice eater off and turn the cabin heat down. It was above freezing all day, but a layer of dew settled on everything and the temperature had dropped from 33 to 30 as the sun set. A super-slick layer of ice froze onto everything including the dock and there are no ladders I can swim to if I fall in that aren’t at least a couple hundred feet away. Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location
Righto. Like I said, I'm not my area of expertise. Bill Original message From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List Date: 12/31/17 15:47 (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joe Della Barba Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location CNG is not propane. CNG is always a gas and the tanks fill up to about 2500 PSI.Propane tanks are at about 200 PSI or less. A CNG tank is a scuba tank with a different valve. The filling stations for CNG vehicles commonly have a lower pressure and higher pressure pump. This adapter fits the high pressure one and I went nuts over at the low pressure pump. In this case low = 2000 PSI and high = 3500 PSI. You need to be easy with the valve and fill your tank to about 2200. Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com CoquinaC&C 35 MK IFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2017 3:28 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: coltrek Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location I'm a little out of my area of expertise here, but I tried to get an adapter for a forklift propane tank, which is laid sideways. And after talking to a friend of mine in the propane business, he told me that forklifts use liquid propane which was what happens when you laid on its side, and Flames used vapor gas which comes straight up. I think for that reason, there were no adapters readily available. Just a thought. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: detroito91 via CnC-List Date: 12/31/17 13:03 (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: detroito91 Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Great idea.i'll look into itThanksJim Original message From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List Date: 12/31/17 2:16 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joe Della Barba Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Do you have one of the CNG adapters to fill up at car CNG stations?A tank fill now costs me around $2 J https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-CNG-Tank-Refill-Adapter/182978797859?hash=item2a9a62e123:g:r0UAAOSwzaJX3UrH&vxp=mtr · Note there are two kinds of CNG nozzles. I spent some time at the wrong pump until I figured it out – d’oh! Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com CoquinaFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 9:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: detroito91 ; Jack Fitzgerald Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Deal. Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List Date: 12/30/17 2:18 PM (GMT-05:00) To: C&CList Cc: Jack Fitzgerald Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Jim Let me know when you are in Savannah and hopefully we can hook up for a beer & to talk C&C boats. Best regards, Jack Fitzgerald 260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA mobile number: 912 441.2296Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. Please reply to the sender that you have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you On Fri, Dec 29, 2017 at 3:42 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List wrote:Thanks Jackwe'll be coming thru mid feb for spme tourist action but not cng! Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List Date: 12/29/17 9:22 AM (GMT-05:00) To: C&CList Cc: Jack Fitzgerald Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location There isn't a CNG filling station in Savnanah Best regards, Jack FitzgeraldHONEY - US12788C&C 39TMSavannah, GA USA On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 10:58 PM, detroit...@aol.com via CnC-List wrote: This is aimed at the locations on the east coast south of Annapolis.Looking for re-fill locations for the CNG tanks on board. Does anyone know of any sites. Will be heading south from washington,nc on the icw. So if you know of any sites along the way...please let me know.Thanks...you guys are the greatest.Jim schwartzSEA YA!38 LFwashington nc YBoat came with CNG cooking and really don't want to convert. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device ___ Thanks everyone for___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location
I'm a little out of my area of expertise here, but I tried to get an adapter for a forklift propane tank, which is laid sideways. And after talking to a friend of mine in the propane business, he told me that forklifts use liquid propane which was what happens when you laid on its side, and Flames used vapor gas which comes straight up. I think for that reason, there were no adapters readily available. Just a thought. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: detroito91 via CnC-List Date: 12/31/17 13:03 (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: detroito91 Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Great idea.i'll look into itThanksJim Original message From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List Date: 12/31/17 2:16 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joe Della Barba Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Do you have one of the CNG adapters to fill up at car CNG stations?A tank fill now costs me around $2 J https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-CNG-Tank-Refill-Adapter/182978797859?hash=item2a9a62e123:g:r0UAAOSwzaJX3UrH&vxp=mtr · Note there are two kinds of CNG nozzles. I spent some time at the wrong pump until I figured it out – d’oh! Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com CoquinaFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 9:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: detroito91 ; Jack Fitzgerald Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Deal. Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List Date: 12/30/17 2:18 PM (GMT-05:00) To: C&CList Cc: Jack Fitzgerald Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location Jim Let me know when you are in Savannah and hopefully we can hook up for a beer & to talk C&C boats. Best regards, Jack Fitzgerald 260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA mobile number: 912 441.2296Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. Please reply to the sender that you have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you On Fri, Dec 29, 2017 at 3:42 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List wrote:Thanks Jackwe'll be coming thru mid feb for spme tourist action but not cng! Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List Date: 12/29/17 9:22 AM (GMT-05:00) To: C&CList Cc: Jack Fitzgerald Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location There isn't a CNG filling station in Savnanah Best regards, Jack FitzgeraldHONEY - US12788C&C 39TMSavannah, GA USA On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 10:58 PM, detroit...@aol.com via CnC-List wrote: This is aimed at the locations on the east coast south of Annapolis.Looking for re-fill locations for the CNG tanks on board. Does anyone know of any sites. Will be heading south from washington,nc on the icw. So if you know of any sites along the way...please let me know.Thanks...you guys are the greatest.Jim schwartzSEA YA!38 LFwashington nc YBoat came with CNG cooking and really don't want to convert. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device ___ Thanks everyone for___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List toe rails
I had a few places I had to touch up, and I use a flat black heat resistant spray, (B/C that was what I had), then I put an automobile type clear coat over. Still looks good 12 years later. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: William Walker via CnC-List Date: 12/29/17 13:14 (GMT-06:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List toe rails Any recommendations for product to use on toe rails on which anodized black is hazy, whitish, but intact. Thanks in advance. Bill Walker CnC 36 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 40 Peregrine Sold
I agree on all those points Andy, I cut my teeth scrubbing teak decks on large power boats and I saw how they aged. My point was simply, that by doing this, you can extend the life greatly between having to redo the decks, which can be horrendously expensive. When they are allowed to age naturally, especially in the tropics, they don't last all that long. I guess I'm preaching to the choir !Some fellow I sold some Spinnakers to, (I think he was from Nova Scotia) was captain of the Ticonderoga and he said that used Deks ole. And with tons of people walking on them he said it gave it a really nice finish. Bill Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List Date: 12/23/17 22:44 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 40 Peregrine Sold I've always thought teak looks best when it's scrubbed white--across the grain of course. Chemical cleaners take years off the life of a teak deck. Oil also takes away from the wonderful non skid properties of a teak deck. Andy Andrew Burton 61 West Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 +401 965 5260 > On Dec 23, 2017, at 19:33, coltrek via CnC-List wrote: > > Isn't it great when everything comes together? :-) > > Congrats, looks like a great boat. There is a fellow here who had a Baltic > 42, now a 52, he uses some type of oil on the deck and the teak looks as good > when he sells them a when he buys them. > . > > Bill Coleman > C&C 39 > > > Original message > From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List > Date: 12/23/17 15:26 (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Andrew Burton > Subject: Stus-List C&C 40 Peregrine Sold > > Just wanted to let everyone know that we are going to survey next week and > all going according to plan, Peregrine is going to a lucky new owner. > The first of no doubt many tears have been shed, but the excitement of having > the new boat is helping ease the pain. > The new boat is a Baltic 47 built in 1995. > > Cheers > Andy > > > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett > Newport, RI > USA 02840 > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 40 Peregrine Sold
Isn't it great when everything comes together? :-) Congrats, looks like a great boat. There is a fellow here who had a Baltic 42, now a 52, he uses some type of oil on the deck and the teak looks as good when he sells them a when he buys them. . Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List Date: 12/23/17 15:26 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Stus-List C&C 40 Peregrine Sold Just wanted to let everyone know that we are going to survey next week and all going according to plan, Peregrine is going to a lucky new owner. The first of no doubt many tears have been shed, but the excitement of having the new boat is helping ease the pain. The new boat is a Baltic 47 built in 1995. Cheers Andy Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH
One advantage of using the manufacturer's recommendation though, is that if it isn't quite right, they will usually fix it. My three bladed Gori would not quite get up to max RPM, and smoked a little bit, so I sent it back. They sent it over to Denmark or wherever they make them and took a half an inch off the OD, airmailed it back, and it worked perfectly Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" Date: 12/18/17 11:24 (GMT-05:00) To: CnClist Cc: "Dennis C." Subject: Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH Take prop manufacturers recommendations with a grain of salt. Years ago I requested a recommendation from Flexofold. The rep at the time was Chuck Angle who was highly regarded. He said he didn't have a good prop recommendation for my 35-1. :) I went with Martec. In 2011, I repeated the request and got a recommendation for a 15 x 12.In 2016, I again asked and they said 16 x 12. Currently, Touche' is swinging a 14 x 14 Martec which seems a bit under pitched (or too small a diameter). I can run at 6.4-6.5 knots at cruise rpm (80% max, 2450 rpm) and flat water, no wind. On my list for next year's haul out is to measure and document (photograph) the prop tip clearance distance. I will also measure the hub and swing pin location. The swing plane for different props varies. I think prop selection is part science, part art and a bit of voodoo. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 9:59 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: The problem that I see with this calculator is that there is no value for prop diameter (and slip is pretty intangible, though I suspect using .10 slip might be a good approximation for 90% efficiency). The rule of thumb that a local propshop told me is that changing prop diameter by 1” is approximately equivalent to changing the prop pitch by 2”. So diameter also enters into the calculation. I believe each prop maker has their own calculator for recommending initial diameter and pitch, based on boat weight, engine HP and targeted cruising RPM, transmission reduction ratio, and hull speed. Rick BrassWashington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of svpegasus38 via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2017 5:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: svpegasus38 Subject: Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH Try this propellor calculator. rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39 Original message From: Bunky via CnC-List Date: 12/17/17 14:18 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bunky Subject: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH Luna is a 1984 C&C 35 with a Yanmar 3gm30 engine. Does anyone know what the proper propeller pitch should be? She has an aftermarket Maxiprop, and based on engine performance, I believe the pitch may be set too high. Richard Luna, Lake Champlain, VT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale
Beautiful boat, you shouldn't have any trouble selling it. Almost as pretty as a C&C 39!I look at these prices, and it makes me a little sad, seeing where they come down to. But then I realize, that a lot of time has passed, and that these are in fact older boats. And, we have had a lot of fun on them, and that costs money! But, unlike boats that age when we were kids, these things will probably outlive us, unlike Wooden Boats of the day. We really don't know how long these boats will last, as long as they are well taken care of. Good luck , Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List Date: 12/9/17 10:22 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale Good morning, all. My wife has a web site up to help sell Peregrine.I think I have her priced very reasonably (Peregrine, not my wife...though, come to think of it...no...just Peregrine). I would be interested in any input from the assembled group.I will be sorry to part with her, but the new boat has extra cabins for kids and parents that my wife wants. I hate to leave the fold, though. Maybe Danny, Bruno, and I can show up at rendezvous as sort of auxiliary C&Cs?https://aburtonsailor.wixsite.com/peregrine CheersAndyC&C 40Peregrine Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List White non skid decks
Sounds like the area around your boat is dirty. That's the first thing I would be concerned with. Beyond that, try Woody Wax. Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Rod Stright via CnC-List Date: 11/22/17 15:40 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rod Stright Subject: Stus-List White non skid decks Just pressure washed the deck on my new to me C&C 99. Man they look great but as soon as you step on the non skid it looks dirty and is difficult to clean. Anybody got any tips for keeping the white non skid decks clean and/or easier to clean? Rod2004 C&C 99 This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Surveyor
looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please. Regards, Bill ColemanC&C 39 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
The stanchion base, you should be able to remove it and have it ground out and welded. That's what I did with mine. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Date: 11/18/17 09:36 (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List Cc: Bruce Whitmore Subject: Stus-List Does anyone know the type of black plastic (Marelon?) stanchion base used on my C&C? It is a 1994 C&C 37/40+. I have one stanchion base that is cracked that I'd like to replace. Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses
I have a roll of quarter inch fuel hose from Parker Hannifin, that says u.s. Coast Guard approved. It is blue . And Joe is right, it is very thick and heavy. You could use it as a backstay on a 50-footer. It has braided stainless steel spring wire in it, and it is a royal bitch to cut, even with a bandsaw. If my boat caught on fire, that would be the last thing left. Regards, Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" Date: 11/9/17 11:38 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses Non-marine hose may well work to keep fuel inside of itself, but auto hose in general isn’t even close to the fire resistance of marine hose. Airplane hoses have fire-sleeves over them and marine hose is about 3-4 times as thick as it needs to be so there is a lot of rubber to burn away before it would have a hole in it. Auto hose has neither. Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 11:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses Well, you should be using only SAE fuel hose. And the specs are the same regardless of the manufacturer. So use whatever is less expensive. You might even get a price on hose – probably Gates Rubber – from your local NAPA store. Since it’s not “Boat Hose” it’s probably significantly less than either WM or Defender. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and Maryann Read via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, November 7, 2017 9:23 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John and Maryann Read Subject: Stus-List Diesel tank hoses Removed my OEM aluminum diesel tank now 35 years old. Exterior looks great but interior shows a number of corrosion issues. Had to remove fittings and saw off the inlet fitting to get the tank out of the locker so was committed when I did that to getting a new tank. That said, the hidden corrosion on the interior tells me an incident was in the making so replacing now is a good idea. Have replacement aluminum tank made by Luther’s in Bristol RI who by all accounts are the “go to” source for a tank made right in all respects. Not the least expensive by any stretch but by far the best value or so they say J Question is replacing the hoses. West carries the Shields brand, Defender the Trident at a cost differential of some 20% less in price. Specifications are essentially identical. Any reason to not embrace the lower price?? John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C&C 34 Noank, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Silicone residue...
I think someone here on the list mentioned that it was called Stoddard solvent Regards, Bill Original message From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List Date: 11/5/17 14:45 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randal Stafford Subject: Re: Stus-List Silicone residue... Coleman liquid fuel. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 4, 2017, at 12:22 PM, David via CnC-List wrote: I know this has been answered before, but was is the solvent used to get rid of silicone from fibreglass? Thanks in advance. Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List News story
That claim will probably validated within a half a year. Or not. Everyone is writing books. We should all write one. Regards, Bill Original message From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Date: 10/27/17 19:04 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey Subject: Re: Stus-List News story I just saw a very short interview with the women on the news. Apparently, they were swamped in a storm that washed the engine and damaged the rig. No more info than that. Although, both women looked healthy and not very distressed. They were found 900 miles off Japan. one statement I found really puzzling. She said she was sure they would have died in the next 24 hours. But they weren't emaciated at all. You'd think of they were afraid of running out of food they would be rationing and very thin. My guess is they were writing their book and maybe embellishing the situation a bit. That's a terrible thing to say isn't it? Lol Danny Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List Date: 10/27/17 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Re: Stus-List News story Yes, but the report in the UK Mail says that they had a mast problem, and could sail at 4-5 knots. I don’t see why that is a problem. The real question is now they got “lost”. Did they have no navigational capability? No solar or wind power? Also, they lost their cell phone overboard the first day. What use is a cell phone in the Pacific Ocean? Lots more to hear on this one. Dave Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT On Oct 27, 2017, at 6:51 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote: According to the morning news, part of their rigging broke and they oatmeal, pasta and rice. Danny Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Brad Crawford via CnC-List Date: 10/26/17 10:05 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brad Crawford Subject: Re: Stus-List News story What happened to sailing? Sent from my iPad > On Oct 26, 2017, at 4:01 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List > wrote: > > Ok, wtf? Story on news tonight about a sailboat that was stranded in the > Pacific for 5months after their engine broke down on an otherwise functional > boat. Apparently the crew survived as they had a water maker and a year’s > supply of oatmeal. Something not add up here? And who really has a 1 year > supply of oatmeal for two people and a dog? > > Gotta be more coming on this one... > > John > > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. > October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small > contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution > -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Lake Superior Storm [was Stove]
Speaking of covers, I need a new cover. Mine was ripped to shreds last February. Can anyone give me a recommendation on cover fabric?. specific names, like Top Gun, etc. I have a sewing machine, and I intend on making one. Regards, Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: 10/28/17 15:15 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Lake Superior Storm [was Stove] Yup, it was a pretty good storm; wave heights on Lake Superior were measured up to twenty-eight feet at the peak of the storm, with wind gusts exceeding 65+ mph. A bunch of crazy surfers were out on the lake yesterday after the storm near Marquette, Michigan, about two hundred miles east of where I sail. I hope the cover is still on the boat; hopefully the heavy snow weighed it down… :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Oct 28, 2017, at 2:03 PM, coltrek via CnC-List wrote: I just heard Duluth got 10 inches of snow and 100 mile-an-hour winds!. Regards, Bill ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Stove
I just heard Duluth got 10 inches of snow and 100 mile-an-hour winds!. Regards, Bill Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: 10/28/17 14:30 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove I’m with Andy (no surprise, it happens pretty often… :^) We use our oven often, just not at the height of summer when it’s too hot both above- and belowdecks. We do roasts, baked goods; all sorts of stuff. I made some killer chocolate lava cakes a few years back. In the cooler months, or when out on Lake Superior with its cold water year round, it helps to take the chill off the cabin. And the smell of freshly-baked food is great, too! — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Oct 28, 2017, at 12:24 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote: I use the oven often when cruising. There's nothing like waking up the mate with fresh baked muffins or scones in the morning! Even better when we're under way!And pork tenderloins are relatively quick and easy to make. So is pizza. And I just found a great recipe for small potatoes baked with parmesan cheese and olive oil--goes great with steak...or the aforementioned pork...and a nice bottle of Bordeaux. And the broiler is excellent for toasting bagels. And I can't imagine re-heating Chinese food without an oven.We don't "camp" aboard when we're cruising. We didn't have an oven and we missed it on the first Peregrine, a C&C 27 I grew up cruising on. AndyC&C 40Peregrine ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List News story
The hull of that boat looks just like the hull of the boat that that kid took around through the Northwest Passage, down the Pacific to Cape Horn, and then back up to the Chesapeake. All the black mold. Regards, Bill Original message From: John Pennie via CnC-List Date: 10/28/17 12:31 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Pennie Subject: Re: Stus-List News story I still think it’s bs. They were in too good of shape . Even an inexperienced sailor would have figured something out after 3 or 4 months :) John Sent from my iPhone On Oct 28, 2017, at 11:22 AM, coltrek via CnC-List wrote: That was my impression also. The main looked perfectly furled on the boom, it looked like the jib was rolled up on the forstay- My impression was that they might have lost a halyard. I can't believe they didn't have other halyards, or at least something to get up the Mast. Or at least be able to get that main up enough to put a little bit of a reef in it or something. Anything. And yes, I think they were clueless. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 10/28/17 11:15 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Re: Stus-List News story I read a story in this morning’s paper about the two rescued women. Sounds like they took enough food to last a year based on advice they received from experienced ocean-crossing sailors (which these women were not). The article left the impression that the women were relatively clueless about boat handling. It also said that the “rigging was damaged.” My guess is that an experienced sailor would have figured out a way to repair the rigging sufficiently to sail the boat in some conditions.___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List News story
That was my impression also. The main looked perfectly furled on the boom, it looked like the jib was rolled up on the forstay- My impression was that they might have lost a halyard. I can't believe they didn't have other halyards, or at least something to get up the Mast. Or at least be able to get that main up enough to put a little bit of a reef in it or something. Anything. And yes, I think they were clueless. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 10/28/17 11:15 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Re: Stus-List News story I read a story in this morning’s paper about the two rescued women. Sounds like they took enough food to last a year based on advice they received from experienced ocean-crossing sailors (which these women were not). The article left the impression that the women were relatively clueless about boat handling. It also said that the “rigging was damaged.” My guess is that an experienced sailor would have figured out a way to repair the rigging sufficiently to sail the boat in some conditions.___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator
This is all really good information, and I wished that I had read and digested it a year or so ago. Those are exactly the voltages I am seeing on mine now, and I'm glad to know that is just what it is supposed to do. I mentioned something earlier this summer about burning a couple of alternator belts up. Well, I have 125 amp Balmer alternator, and the Balmar smart regulator. And I think I had it set to 95% charge, which was as I recall recommended on their chart. But, for some reason that sucker was charging its little heart out, and burning belts up like crazy. I think something was wrong with my heart interface because I later discovered the inverter was stuck on. That was another problem. Later, I reset the heart back to factory defaults, and it started working perfectly again. This time, I never made any adjustments to it or set the battery amp hours or anything. It's working perfectly, so I'm letting sleeping dogs lie. However, the ballmart rep recommended cutting it down to 65% charge on the smart regulator, and I haven't felt any need to change that since them. Although, I did get the alternator temperature regulator, tied into the smart regulator. Once you go through one of these things in strange ports, you never want experience them again. Regards, Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Date: 10/16/17 21:32 (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator Joe, the damage I was considering would be caused by exceeding the charge rate for the bank size. The conventional wisdom is that typical lead acid batteries should not be charged at a rate greater than 25% of their capacity. A 100 AHr battery would be limited to 25 amps. Isn't it possible to exceed the charge rate with a good regulator? Particularly applicable when the battery is more deeply discharged. All of the 3 and 4 stage regulators I've ever seen will ramp up to max amps and hold there until ~14.6 volts is reached (80% full - end of bulk charge) at which time the voltage will be held constant at ~14.6v as the amps are reduced. Once the amps lower to ~2amps the regulator shifts to float mode and lowers the voltage to ~13.3v and holds it indefinitely. As an example lets say that you are using a 100 amp alternator and regulator to charge a 100AHr battery bank that has been discharged to 50% capacity. Isn't it likely that the charge current will ramp to 100 amps? Or at least greater than 25 amps? What other regulator function would prevent this from happening? I suppose battery temperature could input to the alternator so as to reduce charge current. Though, I'm not sure that battery temperature responds quickly enough to prevent early over current damage, only overcurrent damage as a result of longer term charging current which has been applied long enough to raise temperature to the threshold. Josh On Oct 16, 2017 3:01 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" wrote: Wrecking batteries with a big alternator is why you need a good regulator. If you are counting on the alternator itself to just be unable to do any damage because it can’t, you are taking a big risk or and have a very suboptimal charging setup. For an extreme example, given a decent regulator, a 1000 amp alternator should do no harm and you can very much destroy batteries with a 35 amp alternator. I once worked on a boat whose genset had a 35 amp alternator set to 16 volts. The owner was buying several batteries a year and didn’t know why. Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 2:50 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator Not only will they not absorb the charge quickly enough, exceeding the charge rate will boil the batteries more than staying within the charging guidelines. An alternator that is too big for the bank will seriously risk damaging the batteries. Larger alternators under full load will also strain the v-belt. Additional tention will need to be applied to prevent the belt from slipping. The additional tension puts additional side loads on the crankshaft end bearing. Lets also remember that full output is only achieved under full RPM. Many people enjoy the idea of idling along or running the engine for a few hours in neutral. Not only does this not achieve the full rated output of the alternator but it can also coke up the exhaust elbow and glaze the cylinders. Diesel engines should be run at 80% as often as possible and for as long as possible. Josh On Oct 16, 2017 2:19 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" wrote: With a small battery bank you will not benefit from the larger alternator. The batteries can't absorb a charge that quickly. Joel Virus-free. www.avg.co
Re: Stus-List C&C build files
The Marine Museum of the Great Lakes has not been doing too good of late. The last newsletter I got from them talked about being booted out of their quarters, and I don't know if they have found another place to move to. That is another great resource that may be lost. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List Date: 10/14/17 22:59 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: bushma...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C build files I have purchased the build file for two prior C&Cs, and When I purchased my 37 in 2014, I called south shore to inquire about purchasing the build file: I was told by south Shore that all of the files had been tossed because they "didn't want to mess with them anymore"...: I will not do business with them because of their senseless and selfish trashing of such and valuable resource; Richard s/v Bushmark4: C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4: Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Ken Heaton Sent: Sat, Oct 14, 2017 7:55 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C build files South Shore Yachts had the build files. I bought mine there in 2010. As Joe B. said and I also understand, the storage fees were higher than the return investment. They threatened to toss the remaining files in the trash a few years ago. I assume they did, you could ask. The Marine Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston, Ontario has the archives of other construction documents. I purchased pdf's of my boat construction drawings from them by email in 2012 or so. Ken H. On 14 October 2017 at 20:11, Joseph Bognar via CnC-List wrote: South Shore Yachts had the files . The storage fees were higher than the return investment . I think he tossed the remaining files in the trash a few years ago . You can try to contact them and ask Sent from Joe Bognar On Oct 14, 2017, at 6:22 PM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List wrote: I don't recall who has the library of remaining C&C build files and other construction documents. I know it's not South Shore Yacht but can't remember who it is. I'm looking for information about a custom 44. Can anyone provide contact information? Thanks Ted Drossos C&C 110 Lady in Red Long Island, NY ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 1983 c&c 40 std rig spreaders
If there is enough meat left on them, you might be able to just build up what's missing with filler aluminum weld. Otherwise, just cut them off and weld some more aluminum on, either 5000 series marine-grade, or 6061. You should be able to whittle it back into shape, aluminum isn't that much harder to work with than wood. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: PETE via CnC-List Date: 10/11/17 12:51 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: PETE Subject: Stus-List 1983 c&c 40 std rig spreaders Hello all Just had rig pulled and lower spreader tips are severely corroded upon removal by yard there are chunks missing my rigger has not looked at them yet My questions are:1. can they be re-tipped2. does anyone know where they can purchased if replacement needed thanks PETERPortland, meGoonie Island 1983 aft cabin ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31
Haha, nice try counselor. I think the rule reads, whatever came with a boat, stock. You did, however, remove a lot of water ballast that came with the boat... okay, that didn't come with the boat. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 10/11/17 21:33 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 My table hasn’t been on board since I bought the boat. I guess I’m grandfathered. You, on the other hand... From: coltrek via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: coltrek Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 Mine too - I guess we can't protest each other over removing weight for our boats, can we!. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 10/11/17 14:02 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 I’ll add one more perspective. I have a beautiful teak table sitting in my basement. The cabin is much roomier without it, and no one seems to miss it. Again, it’s all about how you use the boat. From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 1:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Hoyt, Mike Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 Hi Lisle and also others I think fixed table or fold up table has a lot to do with how you intend to use the boat. We have raced on a C&C 115 which had the fixed table. Very nice layout when spending time below but when racing the fixed table makes packing a spinnaker more arduous. Our current boat has a fold up to bulkhead table as did our Niagara 26 (most Niagaras had a dinette). When we are cruising inshore we put the table down and leave the stbd side leaf folded down. This is in fact very similar to a fixed table with the port leaf up and stbd leaf down. Room to get by but also more room to put snacks and other items. Really I do not think it matters all that much which you have The BIG DIFFERENCE I see between the Tartan and C&C is the aft cabin vs a quarterberth. When our girls were small we lived aboard our Niagara 26 most weekends in the summer. They were 6 and 8 when we started and we did this for several years. Initially they would sleep in the vee berth which left the rest of the boat free for us and guests once they were asleep. Once they got older they wanted their own bunks and insisted on sleeping on the settees which was less convenient all round. With a two cabin layout you have a LOT MORE bedroom options for your children and can keep the main cabin free for a common area. I think in many ways the 30-2 C&C affords more flexibility for staying overnight with small children than a boat with an open quarterberth. The downside is that the vee berth and quarterberth on the C_C 30-2 will likely be more cramped than the vee berth on the Tartan. Our first boat (C&C designed Paceship P23) had a dinette. It was fun for the two girls who were 5 and 7 at the time because it fit them (and no one else). A big pain with that setup when having 4 aboard was it had to be folded down at night to be a bed and up in the day to give a useful surface. These are just some thoughts I wanted to share about spending time aboard with small children for the two layouts you had mentioned Mike Persistence 1987 Frers 33 Halifax, NS On Oct 11, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Lisle Kingery, PhD wrote: Thanks for all the helpful replies on cabin table options. I've pretty much narrowed my boat choices down to either a C&C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at this point. The Tartan's interior appears more open with the folding table mounted on the bulkhead vs. the fixed table on the C&C. I will mainly be day-sailing and hanging out on the dock with a few overnights so I'm thinking the more open cabin might work better with the kids. comparison pics link below. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8 Thanks, Lisle ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please co
Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31
Mine too -I guess we can't protest each other over removing weight for our boats, can we!. Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 10/11/17 14:02 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 I’ll add one more perspective. I have a beautiful teak table sitting in my basement. The cabin is much roomier without it, and no one seems to miss it. Again, it’s all about how you use the boat. From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 1:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Hoyt, Mike Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table and C&C 30-2 vs Tartan 31 Hi Lisle and also others I think fixed table or fold up table has a lot to do with how you intend to use the boat. We have raced on a C&C 115 which had the fixed table. Very nice layout when spending time below but when racing the fixed table makes packing a spinnaker more arduous. Our current boat has a fold up to bulkhead table as did our Niagara 26 (most Niagaras had a dinette). When we are cruising inshore we put the table down and leave the stbd side leaf folded down. This is in fact very similar to a fixed table with the port leaf up and stbd leaf down. Room to get by but also more room to put snacks and other items. Really I do not think it matters all that much which you have The BIG DIFFERENCE I see between the Tartan and C&C is the aft cabin vs a quarterberth. When our girls were small we lived aboard our Niagara 26 most weekends in the summer. They were 6 and 8 when we started and we did this for several years. Initially they would sleep in the vee berth which left the rest of the boat free for us and guests once they were asleep. Once they got older they wanted their own bunks and insisted on sleeping on the settees which was less convenient all round. With a two cabin layout you have a LOT MORE bedroom options for your children and can keep the main cabin free for a common area. I think in many ways the 30-2 C&C affords more flexibility for staying overnight with small children than a boat with an open quarterberth. The downside is that the vee berth and quarterberth on the C_C 30-2 will likely be more cramped than the vee berth on the Tartan. Our first boat (C&C designed Paceship P23) had a dinette. It was fun for the two girls who were 5 and 7 at the time because it fit them (and no one else). A big pain with that setup when having 4 aboard was it had to be folded down at night to be a bed and up in the day to give a useful surface. These are just some thoughts I wanted to share about spending time aboard with small children for the two layouts you had mentioned Mike Persistence 1987 Frers 33 Halifax, NS On Oct 11, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Lisle Kingery, PhD wrote: Thanks for all the helpful replies on cabin table options. I've pretty much narrowed my boat choices down to either a C&C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at this point. The Tartan's interior appears more open with the folding table mounted on the bulkhead vs. the fixed table on the C&C. I will mainly be day-sailing and hanging out on the dock with a few overnights so I'm thinking the more open cabin might work better with the kids. comparison pics link below. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8 Thanks, Lisle ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
Me too. A cute little crapsman Shop-Vac that lives invisably under my chart table. Blows the lines out, sucks to initiate a prime, - and even does some vacuuming on occasion. Not something that a hard core racer would have on board all the time, but I don't sweat the small stuff! Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Date: 10/9/17 17:12 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck. I have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is great for around the boat anyway. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List wrote: Marek, Thank you for your very detailed procedure. What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job? On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: Tom, This is how I do it: 1. drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty) 2. drain water from the water heater 3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with TWO valves (https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1507576917&sr=1-2&keywords=water+heater+bypass) 4. disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump) 5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online (e.g.: https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples etc.). 6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for each faucet on cold and hot wa___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...
I would have to agree also. Starboard does not have all that much structural strength Regards, BillC&C 39 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List Date: 9/27/17 09:44 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related... David, I do not think starboard will handle a load if you actually try to sail with the board down. In all likelihood it will snap off. Joel On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List wrote: I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy. Rebuilding the while thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for its 1x3 dimensikns. 3/8 is too heavy . Any experience with this size of starboard in this application? Thanks in advance. 1981 40-2 Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
I used stainless steel helicoils when reattaching the hood over the companionway. I think I put a little vaseline on the machine screws, and set them and thickened epoxy. Works fabulous. I did my grab rails with those little wood insert things that you referenced, which also worked well in the wood Regards, Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Date: 9/27/17 09:34 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bruce Whitmore Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. Hello all, I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into). This way one can remove the screw multiple times. So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506518994&sr=8-3&keywords=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the future? Curious as to how this approach would be lacking, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. Dave, I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work. If it was me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners. You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A&H hatch. If it matches, overbore and fill. In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a strong bond. My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so. So the fastener is only grabbing that much. If you overbore carefully down to the top of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is thicker than the original deck. More material for the fastener to grab. Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of what length fastener to use. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote: So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and experiences here. I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the v-berth. So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done? Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Balmar alternator
I found one of the things that you pay a premium price for with Balmar is the tech support. They are great, and worth every penny you *think* you overpaid . Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List Date: 9/17/17 17:47 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: svpegasus38 Subject: Stus-List Balmar alternator Anyone have experience with setting up a Balmar regulator? I have 600 amphour capacity in 6 agm batteries. I have figured out most of the settings, but am questioning how long to set both bulk, and float charge times. Currently bulk is set around 20 minutes and float is about an hour. Never fully charged the batteries. I haven't been able to find any information on this. I do have the Balmar manual. Is it guess work? If set to long will it destroy the batteries, I am getting ready to replace them and don't want to hurt the new ones. Thanks Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts
Ditto. I I thought you got a high-output alternator, so you could charge up quickly with a shirt engine run Regards, Bill Original message From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List Date: 9/12/17 21:26 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Persuasion37 Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts Wow! What am I doing with a 120 amp alternator? MikePERSUASION C&C 37 K/CBLong Sault On Sep 12, 2017, at 9:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: The alternator should be limited to the changing capabilities of the batteries. Standard lead-acid would be 20 - 25% of capacity. So a 100Ah battery should not be charged at a rate greater than 25 amps. I have a 400 Ah bank and a 200 Ah bank. My 90amp Balmar alternator could exceed the rate for my smaller bank so an ACR, Echo-charge, or reducing the alternator output would be prudent. I'm guessing that with 3 batteries you are probably close to 300Ah and somewhere around 60 to 75amps is the absolute most you would want coming from your alternator. Leaving it set to 60% is probably just right. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Mon, Sep 11, 2017, 10:36 PM coltrek via CnC-List wrote: That happened to me three times in a row this summer, on a 6 day cruise /race. I went through three belts. I had just installed Three brand new Deep Cycle batteries. I called the Balmar tech line, and the fellow there kind of walked me through setting the regulator down to only charging at 60% instead of 95%. I don't know why it started to do it in the first place, but I think that it might have had something to do with my heart interface 2000 acting up. Anyways, after the trip, I reset the heart 2000 back to factory defaults, and it started working properly again. I'm not sure if I should ramp my regulator back up to a higher charging level or not. One thing I did after that, is I bought a Balmar regulator temperature sensor. I think it cuts the charging back and the load if it gets too hot. Bill ColemanC & C 39 Original message From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List Date: 9/11/17 22:15 (GMT-05:00) To: C&C Cc: ALAN BERGEN Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns the engine over. I thought it was the starter button. I'd better check that out before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an emergency. Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped the chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge. We suddenly smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured out. After closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator belt had been slipping, It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine pulley. Luckily I had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the repair was completed. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List wrote: I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get it going it always works but I fear someday it won't I looked into getting a new starter and my parts guy said congratulations you have the most expensive starter I've seen $1000 I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine for about 100Very confusingI looked it up and there is something about running A stronger wire to the starterMaybe that's the problem?I'd like to know myself Dan 1970 Cv hull 148 Ipswich Sent from my iPhone On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List wrote: Mastry (www.mastry.com) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take Five this weekend and got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44 + shipping. Mastry's the best! They always have the best price, they even beat eBay and the shipping is super fast. That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my 3gm30F's serial number. Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the Yanmar 6 mos new parts warranty. The problem on my old starter? I suspect there was a bad winding. It would sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going. -Francois1990 34+ "Take Five"Lake Lanier, GA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&
Stus-List Alternator Belts
That happened to me three times in a row this summer, on a 6 day cruise /race. I went through three belts. I had just installed Three brand new Deep Cycle batteries. I called the Balmar tech line, and the fellow there kind of walked me through setting the regulator down to only charging at 60% instead of 95%. I don't know why it started to do it in the first place, but I think that it might have had something to do with my heart interface 2000 acting up. Anyways, after the trip, I reset the heart 2000 back to factory defaults, and it started working properly again. I'm not sure if I should ramp my regulator back up to a higher charging level or not. One thing I did after that, is I bought a Balmar regulator temperature sensor. I think it cuts the charging back and the load if it gets too hot. Bill ColemanC & C 39 Original message From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List Date: 9/11/17 22:15 (GMT-05:00) To: C&C Cc: ALAN BERGEN Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns the engine over. I thought it was the starter button. I'd better check that out before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an emergency. Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped the chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge. We suddenly smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured out. After closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator belt had been slipping, It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine pulley. Luckily I had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the repair was completed. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List wrote: I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get it going it always works but I fear someday it won't I looked into getting a new starter and my parts guy said congratulations you have the most expensive starter I've seen $1000 I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine for about 100Very confusingI looked it up and there is something about running A stronger wire to the starterMaybe that's the problem?I'd like to know myself Dan 1970 Cv hull 148 Ipswich Sent from my iPhone On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List wrote: Mastry (www.mastry.com) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take Five this weekend and got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44 + shipping. Mastry's the best! They always have the best price, they even beat eBay and the shipping is super fast. That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my 3gm30F's serial number. Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the Yanmar 6 mos new parts warranty. The problem on my old starter? I suspect there was a bad winding. It would sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going. -Francois1990 34+ "Take Five"Lake Lanier, GA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=SGrZZ_M01hbwr7besw5UXJCtj2WtZJtybSOomm4IR7w&s=9mItIVeR4b5RVurRijjLdqAqU4omH4HMZbMyHcVcpBs&e= All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain
Rejex is the only polish I have seen that will get you through a canal or any brackish water without getting a mustache. It is nothing short of amazing. http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" Date: 9/9/17 12:20 (GMT-05:00) To: CnClist Cc: "Dennis C." Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain AwlCare is good stuff. I use it on Touche's 4 year old Awlcraft 2000 paint about every 6 months. It's very easy to apply and polish. Can do entire boat in about 2-3 hours. Nice shine when done. Recommended. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 11:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: The instructions for maintaining the new paint job are to wash regularly with fresh water, and annually with a product sold by the paint company. (Awlcare?). The guy who did my paint job says the special stuff really isn’t necessary, though it might be a good idea after the paint job is a few years old. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
Pretty cool. Can I buy one of those? Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Date: 9/5/17 09:14 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? Yes Jerry. You should come! We will not fire any photon torpedoes at your Hunter -- promise. ... though I can't make any promises to other non-C&Cers who show up. Here is an example of when the Enterprise was approached by a hostile Taylor 34 sloop: https://youtu.be/_hja2puzxwk Departing Norwalk in 45 minutes. Next stop: Milford Yacht Club. All the best, Edd ---Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ Sail Number: NCC-1701-BCity Island, New York---914.774.9767 | Mobile---Sent via iPhone 7iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On Sep 5, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List wrote: Jerry,Come to the Rendezvous. Bring the Hunter. It will be fun. We can marvel at the amenities:). This is more about people than boats. Ama and I would love to see you and Janet. Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
Isn't Harvey going to be bringing a bunch of snot over that way in the next few days? I know the bullseye is going to be sitting right over Erie Sunday late afternoon. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39, Erie Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List Date: 9/1/17 14:59 (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? Sitting in Onset waiting for breeze to drop, than on to Portland or Boothbay area for a week then work back to Mattapoisett slowly. AndyC&C 40Peregrine Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260 On Sep 1, 2017, at 14:55, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote: Tentative menemsha to vineyard haven to cuttyhunk then back to mattapoisettOr something like that. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: David via CnC-List Date: 9/1/17 2:34 PM (GMT-05:00) To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? Edgartown to Block island to Shelter Island to Greenport to Newport hence home to Marion, MA As long as the cruising gods allow me this year. C & C 40-2 Corsair. Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: 9/1/17 12:09 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? Stella and Wal are still in Mexico, AFAIK… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Sep 1, 2017, at 11:04 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote: Just wondering about where our wandering list members are currently? Where are you Hank an where is Stella Blue? Ron Wild Cheri C&C 30-1 STL (still) ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25
My buddy and I co-own a star. When I showed it to him a couple of years ago, because he was a little interested in them just to do the beer can racing, I knew he wouldn't buy it unless I came in with him. I've only been on it once. And that was when he set it up. We both owned them 40 years ago. There is a big difference in your agility over 40 years! Regards, Bill Original message From: Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List Date: 8/30/17 14:46 (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Violeta M Ivanova Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25 Are we allowed to like boats other than C&Cs on this list? :) The Star is a blast. Violeta On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 4:33 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote: I love a Lightning or a Thistle, but can't take the pain any more.Maybe a Flying Scot. They have that nice wheelchair ramp to help get up on the boat. And they're all the same; only one builder.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Marek Dziedzic Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 3:08 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25 Each year mid-August our Club organises a race in Bics for adults. It is fun, even watching this. Marek ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25
Well okay, maybe I should requalified this. I have to agree with Ron on the thistle thing. I had a thistle once in a previous life, my brother and I and two girls were out on it, got three miles out in the lake, got a puff - my brother was driving, had the main cleated - long story short we went over, spent 45 minutes thinking that the boat was going to sink. It never did, but it was enough to freak him and this other girl out. Oddly enough, the boat had come with a little bit of polyurethane foam strapped underneath the brace by the Mast. But it was all rotting, and I had taken it out, and not replaced it yet . Obviously big mistake.After that, I decided I wanted a boat that would not flip over. So I got a Star. Then after the second year, got an accidental jibe, couldn't get the running back quick enough, watched the masked curl forward... After that, I decided I didn't want a boat with running backs. Got a Soling. Wonderful boat. Easy, fun, fast. Ken Read came to our club this spring and gave a wonderful talk. He kind of lambasted our sailing school for having Optis and flying juniors, 470's. . . He said his daughter was in a sailing school, an Opti flipped over and sink underneath her. Freaked her out so bad that she still doesn't sail to this day. Obviously, he's very sad about that. I think he liked the Bics for the little kids, and thought that we should actually be getting into foiling just so that it would excite the older kids. My point was just that to actually learn to sail is best on a small boat. Preferably one that you can flip back over and drain out. Then you can learn how to sail a bigger boat and not get freaked out by things happening, as the forces increase exponentially. Doesn't take much of a bad experience to turn somebody completely off of sailing. Regards, BillC&C 39 Erie Original message From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" Date: 8/29/17 18:05 (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker" Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25 I'm with Chuck on this. A couple on the lake bought a Thistle (17ft open craft; very responsive and great in light air) for their first boat and on the second time out, they dumped it. Woman would never get back in that or any other boat.We learned in a Venture 21, a very cheap boat, but decent in light air and easy on/off the trailer. Pretty forgiving.Then got a San Juan 24 and realized what a difference a good boat makes in boat feedback, docking etc.Note the sailing schools use J24s, Colgate 26s and Solings (same size range & style).Get the 25, it's a great size to get things figured out with.Then get the 30 since it's fantastic!RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 4:22 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25 For what it is worth, As a first boat I owned a 13' FJ dinghy that taught me nothing about sailing a 4000lb keelboat. Both that boat and my Laser made me realize that I like to sail and like to swim, just not at the same time.Our 25mk1 allowed us overnight accommodations for a young family and served as a stable and fun performing boat which we owned for 14 years before trading up to our current Landfall 35.Chuck Gilchrest Padanaram, MA Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2017, at 4:46 PM, coltrek via CnC-List wrote: If you REALLY want to learn how to sail , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm raining on your parade! Regards, BillColemanC&C 39 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25
If you REALLY want to learn how to sail , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm raining on your parade! Regards, BillColemanC&C 39 Original message From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" Date: 8/29/17 15:12 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" Subject: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25 Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with me here is the add for the C&C 25 I'm considering: https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good. I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots. I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a bit long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power boat. Thanks, Lisle ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale
It means that if you grab it, you're going to get cut. Or, in the case of a stock, you buy it as it's going down, and then it goes bankrupt. I know all about it. I suppose in the case of a boat, it's one that is so far gone that you will invest more money and time than you will ever get out of it. Regards, Bill Original message From: RANDY via CnC-List Date: 8/15/17 18:54 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list Cc: RANDY Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale Joe what do you mean by "'falling knife' investment"? Cheers,Randy From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" To: "cnc-list" Cc: "Joe Della Barba" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 9:01:36 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale The boat was in horrible shape about 6-8 years ago and probably has not improved. I doubt you would do well even if you got her for free.Speaking of boat values, pretty much any older boat now is a “falling knife” investment. If anyone does still want old boats, no reason to get a half or 3/4s dead one. Joe Della BarbaCoquinaC&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 10:51 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: detroito91 Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale At $ 10,000.00. Something has got to be in real bad shape! (I hope)Jim38 lfWashington ncSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: 8/15/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale “Wow” is right — there go the property values in the neighborhood… :^( — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 15, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: WOW! Don't know the boat, but could be a bargain. https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-landfall/6264221307.html --Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...
Barnacle buster, I think. Practical Sailor just made recommendations this month Regards, Bill Original message From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List Date: 8/5/17 19:56 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, CNC CNC Cc: Neil Andersen Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings... Vinegar Neil Andersen 20691 Jamieson Rd Rock Hall, MD 21661 From: CnC-List on behalf of David via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 7:23:10 PM To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings... So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after vigorous scrubing. Bleach too aggresive. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole). Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List mast gate
Well, you learn something new everyday.When I saw the heading, I thought some mast , or maybe Mass manufacturer was caught up in some horrible scandal. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Sam Salter via CnC-List Date: 7/21/17 16:18 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Sam Salter Subject: Re: Stus-List mast gate They sell them on line:http://www.mastgates.com/ - one example. samC&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Jul 21, 2017, at 1:24 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote: Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone to machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate.. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi Sent from AOL Mobile Mail ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List LO300
OMG.OK, I won't complain about our Mayflies, or Midges again! Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: Michael Brown via CnC-List Date: 7/21/17 12:50 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Subject: Re: Stus-List LO300 Has lots of help, thousands at least. http://www.gamonyachting.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/GAMBloodsuckers.pdf Windburn did double handed flying sails but I ended up awake for the race. At times sections of the deck, sails or lifesling cover was obscured. We used buckets to wash down and clear the cockpit, if you kill one it attracts more for a feast. It clogged the scuppers so had to use the brush handle to mush them up. They bite right through clothes, switched to foulies and boots. Mike Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 10:50:42 -0400 From: coltrek Congratulations on that - even more impressed that somebodycan stay awake all that time!? Regards, Bill Coleman?C&C 39 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Voltages
Congratulations on that - even more impressed that somebodycan stay awake all that time! Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Michael Brown via CnC-List Date: 7/21/17 09:52 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltages We have a number of UPSes in our customer base we support. I have recycled at least 60 AGM batteries this year and sometimes play with them to see if they are good or can be recovered. Even fairly flat batteries may recover. If they can be charged back up, and I use a constant current power supply instead of a battery charger, I see how long the charge takes. Having a 100 amp hour battery come to full charge after 10 hours at 1 amp means it isn't chemically taking a charge. After the battery has been charged, and that may take days, I put a light load on it to remove a small amount of AH, say 10%. The battery is left to sit for a week or so and then I measure the voltage. What I am looking for is one or more cells that are self discharging. If the battery settles in at around 12+ volts there is hope, but if it shows 10 ( or 8 ) then a cell has gone. I can put the batteries back into a Smart UPS and do a run down load test, basically the UPS switches to battery and runs it down to some voltage, switches back to AC and then sends me a report. That will tell me how much capacity the battery has in it. A lot of the time one battery out of the set has gone, some UPSes have 10 batteries in series, some up to 14 in parallel and series. If the UPS is only 2 - 3 years old I may find only one completely bad battery, and maybe three that recover. They are not new, may have 80%+ of original capacity but can be reused in a less critical application. So charge them up, let them sit and check for around 12 volts. If that is good do a run down test ( the old 12v camper bulbs are great for this ) and see what capacity is left. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 PS: I finished the Lake Ontario 300 last weekend ( and Monday ). Finish times ranged from 45 to 61 hours, a result of the wind dying on Monday. Windburn took first in division, first in fleet and line honours on the Scotch Bonnet course. These C&Cs keep going and going. Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 13:11:30 + From: "Della Barba, Joe" It is not absolutely 100% the batteries are done for. 99% maybe, but sometimes wet cells, especially traction batteries, can take a good equalizing charge and come back to life with some capacity left. My old extra car had a short that would run the battery stone cold dead. It survived about 3 of these and still could be used as a start battery, but it had almost no reserve. Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2017 7:24 PM Well, if I learned an expensive lesson, I'll just have to accept that. I checked all the cells before putting the charger on them, and they were full. After charging they are still full (even though I heard the liquid bubbling i.e. creating and venting gas toward the end of the charging period). The one battery I put back on the boat yesterday was able to start my A4 and run my electrical stuff no problem, just like normal before all this. I'll take the other down to the boat tomorrow and measure its voltage with my multimeter- it will have been at rest, disconnected, for 24+ hours by then. But I know there is a difference between instantaneous voltage and amp-hour capacity. These are deep-cycle batteries, and I cycled them very deeply :) I'll just have to monitor the situation for the rest of the season and see how bad my mistakes are going to hurt :) Cheers, Randy From: "Fred Hazzard via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2017 3:27:38 PM I can tell you from personal experience that AGMs won't servive either. I had 4 hooked in parallel that I flattened to 4.5 v . A painful experience. At the same time I lost my inverter charger. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C&C 44 Portland, Or On Jul 20, 2017 12:34 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but if those voltages of 4.7 volts and 5.7 volts were correct, they mean these batteries have been quite severely damaged and will never have anywhere near full capacity again. That is not a maybe. You can get many batteries like that to take a surface charge and appear okay with a voltage reading that looks somewhat normal. There is no muscle behind it. The charger is telling you they are 100% charged to their new and very diminished capacity. Some of the cells may also have run dry. This was not survivable for any flooded battery regardless of quality, or how it was treated otherwise. Bill Bina On 7/20/2017 10:10 AM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote: An update on this. Monday morning I brought my
Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale
There is a 40 here with a wing keel, maybe 5 - 6 foot draft. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39, Erie Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" Date: 5/30/17 16:43 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale Sadly a 7 or 8 foot draft boat is very hard to sell to a non-racer here. Too many places you can never go – including my slip! Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno Lachance via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 4:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bruno Lachance Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale I saw a few C&Cs with draft réductions around here. Mars metal, who i understand produced the keels for most of our boats, have the templates, datas and know how to produce a bulb in two sections that you can bolt to the reduced keel and fair. A kind of DIY kit. You can cut the keel with a chainsawand they will calculate the weight of the bulb to compensate for the loss. they should also advise you if you are going too far, from what i heard they have a good knowledge of our boats. https://marskeel.com/ MarsKeel |Production Lead Keels for the Sailboat Industry marskeel.com For 35 years Mars Keel Technology has united its passion for sailing & vast technical experience to supply quality keels to builders & sailors worldwide The shipping will be expensive! Bruno Lachance Bécassine, 1987 33 mkII (will splash this thuesday!) New-Richmond, Qc De : CnC-List de la part de Danny Haughey via CnC-List Envoyé : 30 mai 2017 16:11 À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc : Danny Haughey Objet : Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale The yard I was at in westport did it on a C&C 41 I looked at On 5/30/2017 4:10 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote: The guy with the 40 for sale in the Rio Dulce did it...with success he says. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 West Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 +401 965 5260 On May 30, 2017, at 15:59, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: Anyone know how hard it is to saw a foot or two off the keel? 6 feet is the absolute max for me. Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 11:24 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale Saw this listing: https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/6153505462.html Don't know the boat. -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 39 project being trashed
Ditto.I'm crying in my beer. Bill ColemanC&C 39, Erie PA Original message From: Craig Cochran via CnC-List Date: 5/23/17 15:31 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Craig Cochran Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 39 project being trashed As a 39 owner, that's painfull Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Date: 23/05/2017 16:59 (GMT+00:00) To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Stus-List C&C 39 project being trashed Somebody looking for a cheap project boat? Kills me to see a boat get destroyed. https://www.facebook.com/groups/sailboatsforsale/permalink/1536653003119915/?sale_post_id=1536653003119915 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines
Regards, Bill Original message From: Jim Watts via CnC-List Date: 5/10/17 21:18 (GMT-05:00) To: 1 CnC List Cc: Jim Watts Subject: Re: Stus-List Moldy Lines I just did this. I brought the lines home that were easy to remove, and took a big bin out to the boat for the tails of the ones that were going to be a pain in the butt to remove. Every two or three years I will run messengers and bring all the lines home. Anyhow...filled the bin with water and a mild Oxiclean solution. Dumped the tails in there and stirred them for a few hours, then left them overnight to soak. Next day, drain and rinse X3. Lines at home, straight into the laundry tub and soak in Oxiclean for a few hours, then drain and chuck lines into the washing machine with a little Woolite. Warm wash, cold rinse. Smaller lines go in mesh bags, anything over 3/8" just goes in. NEVER wash new lines in a washing machine. Anything that has had strain on it, to set the line, should be OK. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 10 May 2017 at 08:06, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Edd, Most commonly sold halyards and control lines are either polyester double braid or some type of high modulus core (Spectra, Vectran, Dyneema, etc). The cover yarns are almost always made of polyester and that material isn't much different than what is found on cross cut cruising sails (Dacron). So, the cleaning process isn't much different... Things to avoid: 1.Bleach. Polyester and bleach are not compatible and using bleach will result in a rapid deterioration of both cover and core yarns. 2.Washing machines. Running a line through the washer will put unnecessary twist into the rope. High modulus ropes, in particular should never be washed in an agitator or spin type washer. 3.Storing the lines wet. If you have green growth on your lines, chances are they've been sitting in water. Suggested cleaning, at least from my company, is to rinse the lines at the end of the season to remove accumulated salt and dirt. If the lines are heavily soiled or have "green growth", scrub the lines with a medium brush in mild soap and water (Ivory liquid has few harsh chemicals and cleans well). Hang the rope to dry either in sunlight or in a warm dry area to avoid mildew or ice build-up. It is also a good idea to inspect the rope for pulls, hard spots, chafe or flattened areas, specifically on halyards where the line bends arounds masthead sheaves or gets run through rope clutches. Let me know if you have any rope specific questions. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA (Novabraid USA) -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 5:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay Subject: Stus-List Moldy Lines Listers, As I prep the Enterprise for launch on Thursday, I noticed some of my halyards and control lines have a green moldy tint on them. Anyone know the best cleaning solution to use to get them back to normal? All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Captain of the Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ Sail Number: NCC-1701-B City Island, New York --- 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 7 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Prop question
Try it using a wheel puller, if that doesn't work, tighten it up as much as you can, and hammer on the end of the (wheel puller) screw. Regards, Bill Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 5/7/17 14:08 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Stus-List Prop question Listers: I assume this has been covered before, but what is the best way to remove a 40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft? The blades are off and the inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not budging. Please advise. Thanks. Matthew L. Wolford 638 West Sixth Street Erie, PA 16507 (814) 459-9600 (Office) (814) 459-9661 (Fax) (814) 392-5599 (Cell) The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication, attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution, copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it. Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete it. Thank you. Please consider the environment before printing this note.___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump
They say that the best pump ever invented is two terrified men and a bucket ! Regards, Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" Date: 4/3/17 10:26 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump IMHO: There are two kinds of bilge pumps. 1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important, being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all the time at the dock or underway in calm weather. None of my pumps are automatic and I have no issue with water over a 2-3 week period. 2 - emergency - Anything but the very largest pumps you can fit are not going to keep up with even one thru-hull and none of them will sit low enough to be good for routine use. The one time a plumbing malfunction* had water almost to the bunks at 0100 I can tell you my big hand pump was doing more than BOTH of my 500 GPH electrical pumps. Motivation is key here :) Also bought a float for a bilge alarm after that ;) Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I * When installing a new engine, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an inch lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard when it did not unloaded at the dock. ! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C&C Landfall 38
I would bet CNC put it in Oilwell, right in front of the keel. It may be off to the side a bit. Mine was underneath the V Berth on cernterline. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Peter via CnC-List Date: 3/27/17 20:30 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schu...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C&C Landfall 38 I just hauled my boat out and had the bottom painted. I asked the person providing the service to make sure that the Transducer was clear of paint and also if they could tell me the location. The painter could not locate the transducer. For the life of me I have not been able to find out where the transducer is located. It is a Signet brand depth sounder and it came that way installed by the factory (I assume). Maybe its not a through the hull transducer I don’t know. If anyone has a similar set up or knows the location please let me email me. The depth sounder works intermittently and I would like to find out why. I have not followed the wiring (grey) because there are a number of grey wires bundled together and tied with plastic ties. I may have to do this sooner or later. Thank youPeter Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance
Mine called for one degree of Rake. Which at the top of the Mast, equated to around 11 inches off of vertical Regards, Bill ColemanC&C 39 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 3/25/17 10:08 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance I had a similar question about rake before making a Spartite plug for the partners. Unless you talk to Rob Ball or someone involved with design/construction, it would be difficult to figure out what C&C’s intentions were (assuming that’s what you want). I’m guessing that you’ve already given the matter more consideration than the construction crew. In my case, I eye-balled other comparable vintage C&Cs to see generally if there was much rake. There appeared to be a little, but not much. I then talked to a local sailmaker, and together we looked at C&C’s original drawing for my boat to see if it showed any rake, which it did (again not much). From this, we concluded that the drawing likely reflected what C&C intended. Using the drawing, I calculated the amount of rake and, because in my case the mast was standing, I adjusted it to the amount of rake shown in the drawing (using a bucket of water hung from a halyard). Seems to have worked – the helm feels about right to me. Based on my experience, I’d find an old drawing and assume it’s more or less what C&C intended. Good luck. From: RANDY via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2017 3:11 AM To: cnc-list Cc: RANDY Subject: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance Listers- Seeking your input here. I'm in the middle of the mast step rebuild project a la http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm. Lots of pictures of the project at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTSzRLbFo0NDl6U1E. I'll be cutting new supports from laminated GPO-3 slabs Saturday night or Sunday morning. Before installing the new supports, I have to decide on the elevation of the aft support. Of course I took careful elevation measurements from the cabin sole before removing the original supports. But the question is, what was the original shape of the top of the aft support? I believe the middle of Grenadine's aft support, under the mast step block, was compressed down from its original elevation due to a combination of weakness in the support and standing rigging tension (especially backstay). Have a look at the pictures and you can clearly see what I mean, e.g. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTLXZuXzd1T1pkR28. This compression has the effect of pitching the mast step aft, thereby moving the masthead aft, thereby increasing weather helm (which I've definitely noticed under enough wind and sail - it was strong under full main and #2 genoa in 30 kts, not surprisingly). However I also believe that the original elevation of the aft support may have been carefully tuned for helm balance, prior to compression below the mast step block due to weak wood and standing rigging tension. The reason this elevation question matters so much is because, using trigonometry, I can calculate the distance by which different elevations of the aft support will move the masthead forward or aft, which in turn will affect helm balance. Each quarter inch of aft support elevation difference could move the masthead about three inches I believe. The last picture (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTU3hRNmZoMUU1MFk) in the Google Drive folder linked above shows the templates from which I'll cut the new supports, traced from the original supports removed from Grenadine's bilge. I hypothesize that the dashed line I drew at the top of the aft support template may have been the aft support's original elevation. I'm halfways tempted to split the difference and cut the new aft support to have that elevation. Of course, I could be full of crap, because I tune the mast rake using the stays after all, which probably influences helm balance more than mast step pitch. And of course I can control the sail selection and sail trim, which probably influence helm balance more than mast step pitch. However, for a given sail selection close-hauled, with neither the backstay nor forestay over-tensioned, the mast step pitch would certainly influence the masthead position and therefore the combined center of effort of the sail plan. What say ye? Does anyone out there know if the top of the original aft mast step support on a 30-1 was flat all the way across, or did it come from the factory with a little elevation drop to tune helm balance? I'll be committing an assumption about that to a GPO-3 slab with my jigsaw in the next day or two. Thanks in advance, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C&C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our mem
Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST
Thank you Steve, and Harry. I've got a couple pieces coming from Australia. Not particularly cheap, but, what are you going to do? It's kind of like buying replacement claws for your Raptor. There's not too many around. Regards, Bill Original message From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List Date: 3/23/17 18:14 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Steve Thomas Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST Yes, there is company in Australia which supplies parts. They are the only game in town. I bought a couple of plastic jaws from them several years ago and they worked fine. Took a long time to get here, 6 or 7 weeks as I recall, but no problem otherwise. http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares Steve Thomas C&C36 Merritt Island, FL C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: I have a Barien 22 winch with plastic jaws, and the top one is cracked. Does anyone know if there is a source for these replacement parts? Thanks, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape
I was also very sad to realize that diesel fuel softens 5200. Basically ruins it Regards, BillC&C 39 Original message From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List Date: 3/23/17 20:30 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Taillieu Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape McLube Sailcote melts butyl, it wipes off easily.Something to be careful of if you spray any deck blocks that have been bedded with butyl tape. Rick TaillieuShearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via CnC-List Sent: March-23-17 20:36 To: cnc-list Cc: RANDY Subject: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape Listers- Any tips on solvents or techniques for removing old butyl tape used to bed deck hardware? Thanks,Randy Virus-free. www.avg.com ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Stugeron equivalent (Cinnarizine) from Hong Kong
Someone on this list also suggested buying at Canadadrugsonline . I did this, viola, a week later I have sturgeon mailed from UK, where they realise that this is a good motion sickness drug. But, I will see if I can get my daughter to bring me some mosion-6, from HK, thanks! What a great resource this list is. Regards, Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: Dave S via CnC-List Date: 3/12/17 05:30 (GMT-05:00) To: C&c Stus List Cc: Dave S Subject: Stus-List Stugeron equivalent (Cinnarizine) from Hong Kong This has come up on the list before - Stugeron is a UK motion sickness med - not available in North America. (or France, near as I can tell). the active ingredient is cinnarizine reputed to be effective with out some of the side effects of dramamine. (gravol) For the record, I purchased some Mosion-6 (clever name) over the counter in Hong Kong last week - 25mg Cinnarizine. http://www.fortunepharm.com/eng/product/hongkong/6/0 Dave1985 33-ii ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?
Well, I'm just jumping in here without knowing this whole thread, and I don't want to cross Bill, B/C I know that is like throwing raw meat in front of a Pit Bull - but- in 2005 when I brought my boat back to the shop for a refit, I was using a lot of PPG Concept. Over the cabin paint, I applied a couple coats of PPG Strataclear, B/C they said it was the hardest clear coating they had. (I also put ground pearls into it, which, by the way looks fabulous) After I had done the teak in cetol, I had some leftover Strataclear in the can, (no pearls) and I painted it on the teak around the companionway as an experiment . Over the Cetol. It still looks fantastic 12 years later. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie Original message From: BillBinaList via CnC-List Date: 3/2/17 17:14 (GMT-05:00) To: T power , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: BillBinaList Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation? That stuff is not formulated for use on wood, or over Cetol! Being a two-part urethane, it will also be a major job to strip off when it fails. My thought is that it is just asking for trouble. I looked up Chroma Clear. It is an industrial finish that is only sold to professionals and requires an advanced type of NIOSH respirator among other precautions. People with any sort of respiratory issues or asthma are warned not to get anywhere near it. Those are my thoughts! :-) On 3/2/2017 4:18 PM, T power wrote: Any thoughts on this process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNz16sRdpFY&index=3&list=PLLD81Ey5nuIoof2Y9lL-sDWeorU3g7fpZ INTEGRITY FINISHING INC, Boat teak restoration www.youtube.com SEATTLE WASHINGTON PAINTING COMPANY, INTEGRITY FINISHING, INC. "NEAT, CLEAN & COMPLETE SINCE 1986" Your full service painting contractor. BOAT TEAK REPAIR Sent from Outlook From: CnC-List on behalf of Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, March 2, 2017 11:13:20 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Bina - gmail Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation? Putting anything on top of Cetol sort of defeats its main advantage. Cetol breathes, which is beneficial to the wood, and maintenance is easy because a quick scrub with plain water and a 3M kitchen scrubby is all the prep work usually required to add a fresh coat or two when needed. The slight softness is a PLUS. If you top coat it, you lose all of that.and may as well just do labor intensive varnish without the Cetol. Bill Bina On 3/2/2017 9:46 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote: Our boatyard manager (graduate of Great Lakes School of Wooden Boatbuilding) told me Cetol should be coated with at least 2 coats of Captain's Varnish (or similar?). Says Cetol finish by itself is too soft for his liking. Has worked great for me... Chuck Saur ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List New (old) C&C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress
That may not work, because it comes down the inside of the mast! Go down to the boat when it's raining like hell, and take a flashlight and look at your mast and see if you don't see water running down through there. By the way, somebody on this list came up with a really great suggestion, strong magnets. I have a pair, and I put one in the bilge in the lowest point where I really wanted the garboard drain, but I didn't think I could drill through there. Then I went around down outside with the other magnet and Son of a bitch if it didn't stick right where I wanted it! Regards, Bill Original message From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List Date: 2/12/17 21:13 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Thomas Delaney Subject: Re: Stus-List New (old) C&C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress Randy, Neil, Bill, Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable marker and will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it hadn't crossed my mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add replacing the mast boot and installing a garboard drain to my list of projects. Thanks again,Tom --- Snow Goose C&C 35 Mk I City Island, NY ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List New (old) C&C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress
It's coming down the mast . Put a garboard drain in . (Now, don't tell me the mast is out!) Regards, BillC&C 39 Original message From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List Date: 2/12/17 10:27 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Thomas Delaney Subject: Stus-List New (old) C&C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress Hello listers, In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C&C 35 Mk I, after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help! The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend. One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the water ingress stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better course of action I should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need? Thanks in advance, Tom --- Snow Goose C&C 35 Mk I City Island, NY ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
I had a lot of trouble with regular stay- set, then I took the line out to the shop, tied one end to a bollard, the other to a fork lift and stretched it so tight I could walk on it for an afternoon. Worked great after that. Bill Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List Date:10/16/2014 10:19 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Josh Muckley , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers? Fwiw ATN was not at the Annapolis boat show this year. Always had a booth in the past. I've seen the climber used. The rope must be tight for it to work well. I let others do the climbing. Joel On Thursday, October 16, 2014, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Yeah Jack, ATN didn't do themselves any favors when then used the stretchy rope. Too difficult to pull the rope tight enough. If you get a chance to find some ascenders it would be easy to reuse everything you already have to make a "top climber" A 4:1 block and tackle means that you have to use your arms to pull down 40-50lbs, 75 to 100 times. Not particularly hard but slow and tiring. Using any ascender system relies on using you legs to simply squat your body weight 30 to 40 times. Easier than climbing 4 flights of stairs. I estimated 1-2 feet per pull or squat and a 50' mast. Josh On Oct 16, 2014 9:18 PM, "Jack Brennan via CnC-List" wrote: It’s worth wandering around the marina and testing a couple of systems before buying one. Everyone seems to have a different preference, depending on your fear of heights, taste for adventure, physical condition, etc. I inherited a Mast Mate and didn’t like the spongy feel of the ladder. I tried an ATN Mast Climber and didn’t like it much, either, probably because I wasn’t using a really taut, low-stretch line. Currently, I have a four-part system (two double blocks) with 200 feet of line that allows me to lift myself up if needed. Of course, the best system is the one I use most often – a wife who thinks it’s kind of fun to get lifted up the mast. Jack Brennan___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Volvo ocean race game?
Yes, it is one of the few races I can do without running aground or forgetting to change course. Wild Bill Original message From: Graham Collins via CnC-List Date:10/10/2014 9:34 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Volvo ocean race game? Anyone doing the volvo ocean race game? (Virtual regatta at http://www.virtualregatta.com/) -- Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?
The bane of every keel stepped sailors existence. All the holes in the mast where the halyards exit and enter. And of course, the water runs down the halyards and builds up as it enters the holes. Wild Bill Original message From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Date:09/15/2014 8:42 PM (GMT-05:00) To: C&c List Subject: Stus-List Rain inside mast? I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings and washers for the single water tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast collar. Where is the rain getting in? Barbara H. Fellers ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch?
I was able to get my broken key out with the broken piece and a little bit of superglue. I did not want this to happen again, so I cut most of the spare key off, drilled a little hole through it and put a small ring through it. Now, nothing sticks out, I just pull the ring up to rotate it. Bill Original message From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Date:08/25/2014 6:49 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch? Yesterday, it was pretty sporty on the lake with winds in the upper teens, my son was rushing from the deck to the cockpit and kicked the engine start key / broke it as he stepped over to come and take the wheel for a while.. I could not find my spare key so I had to stick the broken half back into the slot to get the engine re-started. Back at the marina in the evening, I tried to remove the broken piece by prying / pulling it out with a variety of small screwdrivers, drill bits. and other implements nothing was working and it was getting late so I decided to take the switch off to bring home and figure it out later. That's when I found out that I was very thankful for thoughtful Yanmar engineers: There is a slot in the barrel directly over the key's teeth. All you need to do is stick a small screwdriver in the slot and push the offending broken piece out.. Brillant! Outside of that it was a phenomenal day on the lake. Probably the best sail this year so far.. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate
Careful Dave, I got yelled at for talking like that! Bill Coleman C&C 39 Original message From: davidrisch75 via CnC-List Date:07/29/2014 9:49 PM (GMT-05:00) To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com, CnC Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate Yea they explode. Boy do they explode. 8k of carbon fibre explode. 2 seasons and a lifetime of lessons. Never again 1981 40-2. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Sam Salter via CnC-List Date:07/29/2014 9:38 PM (GMT-05:00) To: CnC Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate Here: http://www.dimension-polyant.com/en/Laminate_Cruising_2_3_1.php It's high tech / lightweight s*#t, so it's going to be much lighter than Dacron. I bought a full laminate genoa last season - it's half the Weight (...or less) of my old Dacron 135%. Cruising laminate is going to be somewhere in between. So with a bit of research you can determine if it's going to hold up. A word of warning - don't know about cruising laminate, but regular high tech sails don't slowly blow out over time like Dacron - they suddenly explode! sam :-) Original Message From: John Pennie via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 6:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: John Pennie Subject: Stus-List Sailcloth - Cruising Laminate Hello all I was taking my summer hiatus from the list but something has come up… For financial reasons I had delayed new sails this winter. Just too many other projects going on. Browsing Bacon’s listings I came across a jib (130%) which is virtually new. Dimensions are near perfect, luff tape is the correct size, suncover is on the correct side and even the right color. I know Bacon well and have no concerns there. Here’s the rub… The sail is listed as a “cruise laminate” by Quantum. Again I have no concerns with either of those pieces of information. Would love to know what the the laminate is but that information is not available. Assume some blend of polyester, mylar and something for strength. My concern is that cloth weight is listed as 4.75 ounce. This for a 40’ boat with a tall rig. Even by Long Island Sound standards that seems terribly light. Price is now down to just over 1/3 the price of a new sail. Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate
Just pull your pole too far to windward then over trim. WILD BILL Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List Date:07/23/2014 12:03 PM (GMT-08:00) To: Edd Schillay , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate I need a blooper that'll fit a C&C 40... On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 3:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Listers, Does anyone know of an organization (preferably charity) that accepts old sails as donations? I’d love to find one in the northeast that would be willing to come and pick them up. Have quiet a few old headsails and a couple of spinnakers that need new homes. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Help (volume 2) Terrible Ordeal really
I would say so! Wild Bill Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List Date:07/12/2014 1:04 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Wally Bryant , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Help (volume 2) Terrible Ordeal really Perhaps I should revise my comment about mental health :) Andy C&C 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 > On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:48, Wally Bryant via CnC-List > wrote: > > We had atypicallightning storm the other night rolling down from the > mountains. Lightning and thunder every two or three seconds, and pouring > rain. After making sure the boat was secure, I fell dozed off on the port > bench with a book, and with my head two feet from the keel stepped mast. > Suddenly there was an incredible flash of lightning with a simultaneous crash > of 90db thunder, and I literally levitated. > > I felt really odd, but shook it off and decided to go check out the boat. The > boat was okay, so I wandered down the dock checking out other boats to make > sure they were okay. Then I crashed through the gate and headed up to > thesmall village to make sure it was okay. > > I'm used to having dogsbark at me, because I'm a gringo and I look different. > But now, I seem to be seven feet tall and my skin has turned an odd shade of > green. The biggest problem is that I can't stop waving my arms around when I > walk. I need to get out of town quickly, because people are chasing me with > torches. > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List About bigger boats
Sounds like you just talked yourself into a downsize! Wild Bill Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" Date:07/05/2014 9:09 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List About bigger boats I'm sitting on a balcony watching the sunset at a friend's condo overlooking the beginning of Rocky Bayou on the northern reaches of Choctowatchee Bay at Niceville, Fla. I'm pondering the recent thread on a bigger boat. This venue is lovely. We've watched a lot of sailboats and power boats come and go to/from the the marina a bit north. If I was to bring Touché here it would take 5 days. A 30 would only take 3 days. I can't get Touché under the ICW bridges at Navarre Beach or Fort Walton. Similarly, I can't get under the East Pass bridge coming in from the gulf at Destin. I'd have to transit all the way to Panama City, enter St. Andrews Bay then come back west via the ICW to get into Chocotowatchee Bay. That's an extra 2 days. Friend of mine traded his Beneteau 47 for an Island Packet 485. Now he can't get under the Pensacola Beach bridge to sail Santa Rosa Sound, some really prime sailing waters. So, there are some disadvantages to a bigger boat. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, La Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
And in his review of the C&C 39, he said THAT was his favorite! But hey, I tell each of my son's in law that the got the pick of the litter! (Bob Perry told me that it's still his favorite) Wild Bill C&C 39 Original message From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List Date:07/04/2014 4:18 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please! Ryan - Your *key point* was when you said "to make sure its a sport/lifestyle/hobby for me..." Before I bought this LF38 I had an Islander 28 -- a very stiff and forgiving little sailing machine (Bob Perry told me that it's still his favorite boat, back when I asked him if the C&C LF38 was a good boat) Wal Ryan wrote: > What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my > impulsiveness and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a > sport/lifestyle/hobby for me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for > such a great price is tempting!!! ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating
It's supposed to be anodized, so it should wear, not flake, unless someone painted it. I had mine stripped & re- anodized black. It came out corse, and I wouldn't do it again. I would just paint it, after a zinc chromate primer. Maybe black engine paint would look appropriate. Wild Bill Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date:06/29/2014 12:26 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Aluminum coating The black coating on the stanchion bases along the rail on Alera have flaked off in a few spots. I bet someone here has dealt with this issue... Tom Buscaglia S/V Arera 1990 C&C 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Seacocks
Well, I guess I'm a bad seaman too. I have never closed my seacocks either. I just make sure that my hoses are good and the connections are sound. I could never remember to turn them on when I needed them. I'll take that back. I do have to close to seacock to the sink in the head when the wind is up. Bill C&C 39 Original message From: dwight via CnC-List Date:05/26/2014 5:18 AM (GMT-05:00) To: 'Jim Watts' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Seacocks My C&C 35 MKII has 7 Groco bronze seacocks, each one placed in a very hard to reach space…since it is well known to be good seamanship to close all seacocks when leaving the boat I wonder why the designers did not make them a little more easily accessible and with longer handles too…I might be more inclined to use them if they were more accessible…however all 7 do move freely open to close, the surveyor confirmed that just last week From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts via CnC-List Sent: May 26, 2014 2:07 AM To: M Bod; 1 CnC List Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the seacock handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the engine with pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I leave the seacock open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live with that. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List wrote: OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be working smoothly. Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller furler was jamming for a bit. Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good (exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad). Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week). 10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak. We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!! Opened the seacock. Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low rpm and made the run to the cove. Little hitch at the end. Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not enough line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail. Solved that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around the forestay! Dirty, but it worked. All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock. Had pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I better pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway. I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized I was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little splash. Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely remember the seacock in the future! Mark ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com