I decided to thin the herd a bit and let go of my TR7 station and will have it
available at the Richmond, Virginia “Frostfest” coming up on February 2nd. A
nice rig that has just become excess to my needs.
— TR-7 HF transceiver with AUX-7 board
— Filters: 6 kHz AM/2.3 kHz SSB/1.8 kHz
Thanks to Jerry WA8R who forwarded a copy of the manual not long after I put
out my request.
That’s what I love about the ham, and most especially the Drake,
community…always willing to help out.
Enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend!
73 - Dino KL0S
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> F
Little off Drake HF gear topic but just acquired a Drake TSM1000A Satellite
Meter in pristine shape. But I’m not able to find a manual anywhere on the
web. If anyone has one in paper or electron form please contact me off list.
Thanks in advance!
73 - Dino KL0S
I’d venture to say that anytime you see a message with ONLY a web link in the
message block that should make you run for the hills. One nice thing about
Apple’s mail client is that you can hover above one of these links without
clicking on it and see what the actual address of the link is.
Shows as a .005 cap on the three versions of the schematic I have Steve.
73 - Dino KL0S
On Jun032012, at 2144 PM, Steve wrote:
I am working on bringing back to life a 2B and am find that someone removed a
capacitor in the crystal oscillator section. It is C76 and I am unable to
read it's
Sorry for the bandwidthtrying to make sure my too many bounces condition
gets resolved.
Dino KL0S
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Marc - I just rebuilt the L-7PS with a Harbach board (and a L-4PS with the
Heathkit Shop board)Both boards show 2700 volts on the amp meters after
putting them into operation.
Did you do a low-voltage test before installing? I applied a 20VAC voltage to
the input and got ~50VDC at the
Thanks Rickthe supply is sitting there on the floor saying replace my
resistors too! I may have to listen to it!
73 - Dino
On Feb192012, at 1221 PM, richard radke wrote:
Dino,
I had a bleeder go several years ago when the glitch resistor blew with a
BANG! I could only tell by a
I finally bit the bullet yesterday and got around to rebuilding my L-4BPS and
L7PS supplies, one with a Heathkit Shop board and the other with the Harbach
version. Both procedures went well, with the second going a LOT faster than
the first! I will be rebuilding a friend's L-4BPS next week
OR, and this is a big OR, is it possible that even though the previous owner
had 10m privileges that the amp was a late run version that did not include
10m??? My L-4B was one of those animals and I had to get the 10m input coil
kit from Drake then carefully rub off the small dots of gray
Garey is absolutely right, I never thought the type light made that much
difference until recently when the XYL and I bought some new furniture and in
the showroom under fluorescent lights our sofa/recliners appeared brown but
when we took a swatch of the material outside under natural light
Good deal Joe! According to my DXing friends (since I'm off the air with the
impending sale of our QTH) have been telling me the bands have been really
crappy so I think the lack of signals on 10/15m is probably not a problem with
your rig, especially if your sig gen is being heard ok.
Let us
Joe - you may want to check out Garey's CD service manual for the 2B at:
http://www.k4oah.com/Drake_new7/2-B.html
73 - Dino KL0S
On Jun042011, at 2346 PM, Joe Connor wrote:
Today, I picked up a very beat-up Drake 2B at a garage sale, and I need some
help and advice:
1. The set works
Ops, forgot to send to the list in case others are interested.
Begin forwarded message:
From: Dino Papas k...@cox.net
Date: Jun 05, 2011 0859 AM EDT
To: posta_libero radioradi...@libero.it
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B
Sure, Garey has a CD available for the TR-4 as well:
http
Check out:
http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/capinfo2C.htm
On May232011, at 1639 PM, Darrell Gordon wrote:
Has anyone done a recap on a 2-C? Any ideas of sourcing the can
(20-40-60uf@150V)? It doesn’t appear I’ll be able to gut the cap case and
put new caps inside due to space problems. Two
Woody - If it's working correctly you should hear the relay engage within about
a half second after turning on the power switchyou'll then hear it
disengage about a second after powering the amp down. Sounds like you still
have some kind of problem with either a part or the wiring.
Dino
Don's - I was surprised recently as well when using my Weller 100/140 gun to
reattach the power switch leads on my L-4Bthe gun just wouldn't get hot
enough to make a good solder joint. For grins I fired up my Weller soldering
station and popped one of the larger size tips in, set it for
Woody - Well, it's been 32 years since I did the 10m mod on my new L-4B but as
I recall you should be able to simply replace the LP filter with a straight
piece of coax (can't help with the 10m input coil/cap procurement). Once
that's done you should have no problem putting the Soft-Start PCB
Same for meeasy build, easy install, great performanceno-brainer.
Dino KL0S
On Feb242011, at 1222 PM, ph...@aol.com wrote:
This is all you need. Just did one a couple of months ago, works great!
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/page7/page7.html
73/Paul, K4MSG
In anticipation of a QTH move I'm trying to thin the herdI have a second
2-C/2-CQ that I'd like to get to someone who will appreciate the pair. The
receiver has both the calibrator and noise limiter accessories installed.
Minimal pitting on the radio's chassis, serial number in the low
Mike - if you're an ARRL member there are lots of articles in past QST
magazines that may get you started.
One series by Doug DeMaw W1FB (SK) might be a good place to start. It was a
four-part series titled Basic Equipment Servicing that ran in QST from
December 1981 thru March 1982. You can
Dennis - I don't know if it's gonna work but I have a couple of vernier drives
that I got from MFJ in anticipation of building some receiver projects. The
drive is a 6:1 unitafter I rebuild my supply I'm going to take the amp
apart and see if this drive will work. Will report back once I
Guys - I know we've batted this issue around a lot and I'm always on the
lookout for a source of the unobtainium power switches for our amps. I feel
fortunate that I had a spare set to replace my switches and then was able to
refurbish the set removed for future use. Recently I found an ad at:
Ditto on Don's comments about really needing the manual to help your
understanding of all the interconnections. BTW, there is 12VDC available on
the bottom two pins of that 4-pin socket on the backI've used that to power
my SP75 speech processor for yearsone less wall wart to have
And, oh by the way, a direct connection allows any other computer sounds
(you've got mail, boing, etc. etc.) that are played while you're
transmitting to go right along with your audio tones. The best way to prevent
that is to use a dedicated interface with a built-in sound card that precludes
Just for everyone's info I just got done conversing with Tom at Hayseed about
kits and shipping charges. If you order multiple kits the PayPal system will
include S/H for EACH kit but as Tom pointed out there is a maximum
shipping/handling charge of $10; until he can fix the web site system
My 2-B SN#3608 has a red button.
Dino KL0S
On 18Aug2010, at 9:57 PM, ph...@aol.com wrote:
So far on the 2B front-glass-move-the-dial button we have:
#2052no buttonK4MSG
#2277no buttonW5GU
#4281white buttonWW3QB
Any more? Just email
Evan - I bit the bullet a couple of years ago and bought a hobby shear brake
for cutting PCBslittle pricey solution unless you have routine need for
doing so but I found it to be the best (for me) method of getting nice clean,
straight cuts for Manhattan style construction projects. Got
After sitting in my project queue for a couple of years I finally got around to
rebuilding my original 1969 vintage AC-4 using Mike Bryce's kit. I had stuffed
the PCB a year or so ago but as the C-line was working ok there was no hurry.
Only problem with the install were the PCB standoffs
http://www.k4oah.com/
On 28Jun2010, at 10:28 PM, Kevin Elliott wrote:
The CDs have the nice close-up pictures of all the components for the various
Drake rigs it covers. I seem to have lost the link.
73 – Kevin KG0MN
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For all you technical types I have twelve years of QEX (1998-2009) for
salegreat condition except for May/June 2005 issue which has pages 3-10
clipped out but I have replaced the pages with photocopies; all others complete.
First $85 via PayPal gets them shipped to CONUS via media mail.
If
Thanks Evan! I had to leave the forum early and was really nice to see what I
missed. Great solution to getting the forum out to the rest of Drakedomand
the price is definitely right.
CU all next year!
73 - Dino KL0S
On 24May2010, at 9:50 PM, k9...@aol.com wrote:
Fellow Drake
Schedule says Saturday from 1030 - 1130 in Room #2.
Dino KL0S
On 4May2010, at 9:51 AM, y...@aol.com wrote:
Where and when is the Drake form at Dayton this year?
dale wt4t
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Jim - you might consider Goo Gone - does a great job with left over adhesive
residue. Have never seen it discolor a plasticbut caveat emptor! You can
get this stuff just about anywhere.
73 -- Dino KL0S
On 11Apr2010, at 2:54 PM, Jim K5JG wrote:
I recently acquired an SPR-4 and want to
Garey - as I recall there was a way to trick the R-4 line into receiving
WWVI just can't remember how it was done for the 10 MHz signal (or maybe
I'm imagining things). There's a Hints and Kinks tip in the March 1971 QST
that tells you how to do it for the 5 MHz signal. Have no idea if
James - great question! Think first you need to determine exactly what you'll
use it for so you can set some parameters for what the generator will do and
maybe more importantly how much it will cost. If you're simply looking for
something to troubleshoot your Drake gear with you can probably
, 2008 2:55:16 PM EDT
To: 'Dino Papas' k...@cox.net
Subject: RE: Using the FCC-1/2 with a Tube Type Transmitter
Greetings Dino,
The matching network is a simple L-network that matches the 50 Ohm output
impedance of the FCC-2 to a higher impedance transmitter input. The inductor is
in series
-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com
Dino Papas wrote:
When I first got my twins in 1979 I wanted to use FSKthe
manual described the FSK tab on the PTO but it appears that in the
very late models towards the end of the run Drake deleted the
tab. Not a big deal I just ran AFSK
Mike -- as I recall there was a project described in CQ magazine way
back that provided for QSK in the C-line. I think it was fairly
complicated but supposedly did a good job. Someone here on the list
may have a copy. I'll search thru my files too if that's the kind of
solution you're
Dale - LNA Technology used to make boards for the W-4 and WH-7 (which
works with the MN-2000). I put one of their boards in a W-4 and it
works great. I have the other one but haven't gotten around to
putting it in my MN-2000 here. I'm not sure if they actually still
sell them but their
Welcome back Gareyglad you're recovering.
73 -- Dino KL0S
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The black power switch on the L-4B I bought new in 1979 started
acting up recently with the same kind of symptoms others have
experienced. As a temporary (very) fix I simply gave both switches a
good shot (well, actually more than a good shot) of DeOxit Gold and
cycled them both about 20
Still lurking here! Agree, probably the summer doldrums
Dino KL0S
On 14Jun2009, at 8:37 AM, Thom LaCosta wrote:
At 07:32 AM 06/12/09, Thom LaCosta wrote:
Apologies for the recent list downtime. An automated update to
the server software did not restore the settings for the mailing
Nope, they sure didn't but wish they hadsome guys have used the
Heath HG-10 with good success. I've used the NorCal FCC-1/2 DDS VFO
on 80 and 40not enough juice for higher bands without some
additional amplification but I haven't gotten around to that yet.
Dino KL0S
On 11Mar2009,
the VFO to perhaps
meet the higher drive requirements:
From: Bob Okas vinta...@earthlink.net
Date: April 17, 2008 2:55:16 PM EDT
To: 'Dino Papas' k...@cox.net
Subject: RE: Using the FCC-1/2 with a Tube Type Transmitter
Greetings Dino,
The matching network is a simple L-network that matches
I've used my successfully on 12/17m as follows:
17m - Bandswitch in 15m position
12m - Bandswitch in 10m position
The Plate and Load controls will depend on your match but my setup
puts those two controls in the vicinity:
17m - Plate: bottom end of the 10m arc; Load: about #1
12m - Plate:
These things are getting down right ridiculous!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItemrd=1item=150281713863ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:ITih=005
For anyone who wants a non-OEM replacement for the MS-8 consider the
Palstar SP-30 speaker at $70:
http://www.palstar.com/sp30.php
They look
I'd really hate to see what a used example of this would be!
http://cgi.ebay.com/RL-Drake-vintage-R-4-B-RECEIVER-unused-w-
manual_W0QQitemZ260262834870QQihZ016QQcategoryZ50596QQssPageNameZWDVWQQr
dZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Dino KL0S/4
inline: rtCurve.gif
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Bill - K5SVC sells a set for the 2C on eBay. Search for seller K5SVC
and check out his eBay store. Got my 2C tube set from him.
73 -- Dino KL0S/4
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
There's a pretty good set of phones (cheap too!) that are made for
things like language labs. Check out the Califone 600 ohm mono
phones
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Ditto for my experience with RF parts!
Dino KL0S/4
--
Submissions:[EMAIL
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Garey for the thoughts.we have a source for those caps
from another L7 parts unit and will do a little surgery to replace
the bad cap. I
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
A friend's L7 gave up the ghost mid-QSO with the self destruction of
one of the two disc ceramic 760pF caps that bypass the HV line at the
cold end
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Dale -- page 2-2 in the manual:
2-10. PTO Lamp.
This jack provides a ground return for the pilot lamp behind the PTO
dial. The R-4C is shipped
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Has anyone done this interface along the lines recommended by Roy
Vickers KF5YU described at:
http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/2nt-hg10.html
Roy
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Sure would be nice if someone would just measure that aluminum plate
and pass it around (drawing would be perfect!)it would be a cinch
to fabricate
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
The original screws that hold the AC-4 in the back of the MS-4 (or
RV-4 series remote VFOs) do in fact have a hemispherical rubber top
to them
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Or you may want to make up a couple of sniffer loops that are a
little more permanenton a piece of RG-58 (or whatever small 50
ohm coax you have
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Frank -- you may be interested in the interface at:
http://home.att.net/~jacksonharbor/keyall.htm
GL -- Dino KL0S/4
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Turner 454C also works wellbeen using mine with my Drakes (TR-4
then C-line) since 1969
GL -- Dino KL0S/4
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Jason -- the diagram on the bottom of my 454C seems to indicate that
when in the Elect position that one side of the PTT wiring is
connected
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Just saw a replacement LED board for the TR7 on eBay in case your DR7
is kaput:
http://cgi.ebay.com/W2ENY-Replacement-Display-kit-for-Drake-TR-7-
TR-7A
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Sorry for the test
Dino KL0S/4
--
Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
George - although there can be many reasons for that crackle one that
has plagued me from time to time turns out to be an easy
fixsometimes
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Probably one of the best mods you can make for the R-4C is to replace
the power supply board with an after market unit. It is absolutely
amazing
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Mike -- I've done them all and the most noticeable improvements I
noticed years ago when I did them were the power supply and audio amp
fixes, most
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Try LNA Technology:
http://www.lnatechnology.com/
GL -- Dino KL0S/4
--
On Behalf of Dino
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
The L-4B uses the GE-1850 lamp or equivalentI had to special order
mine thru a local distributor. I don't think the #47 is a direct
replacement.
Dino
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
I received a CD-ROM from Garey K4OAH today that is a great compilation
of all the various info available on our beloved Drake twinsGarey
has put a lot
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
To all those who responded yesterday to my query about the L-7 10m mod,
especially about the input circuit...thanks.
For those others who may
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Neil -- I have both the L-4PS (that I've had since 1979) and L-7PS
(that I just acquired and plugged in for the first time yesterday) and
have noticed
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Anybody have a good source for the 68pf silver micas that you need to
add to the input circuitry to complete the 10m mod? SM's are getting
hard to find
Dino Papas [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Reminds me of things new soldiers were asked to retrieve:
Go to the commo shop and bring us back a can of squelch.
Go to the arms room and get a blank adapter
73 matches
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