Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

shred your hair. I was introduced to them as an extra on Xena et al. and spent ages trying to track them down. Luckily my mother is a hairdresser so she can get them at trade price:) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costu

Re: [h-cost] Found it! - Colored shirts in the 16th century?

painting was talking about the gown not the inner layer.) And another of one of the Emperors but in his case (painted terracotta bust) it looks like there is a high necked shirt underneath. Michaela de Bruce (Cleves/Cologne is my "pet" area and I have been trawling through approp

Re: [h-cost] Cleves/Colgne dres., was Found it! - Colored shirts in the 16th century?

the same lines used to indicate brocade cloth on these belts: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Bartholom%C3%A4us_Bruyn_d._%C3%84._002.jpg The lines go widthways which makes sens if they are woven specifically to that width. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com __

Re: [h-cost] Re: Colored shirts in the 16th century?

raying edges. " http://www.pleatworkembroidery.com/recreating.php Others may be able to say for sure if woollens were ever worn directly against the body. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.ind

Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question

so I was able to use that little. For a narrower fabric I would have plotted to get more shaping in the back of the skirt to be able to get my full sleeves or just made a short sleeved gown only. I also have 6m of wide wool in cream to get through and I'm thinking surcoat and kirtle. regar

Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question

't work!) Oy, typos got through.. make that "skirts turn back" Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Finding information

ar types of searches which you can then take to your library's ILL librarian:) Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Knife pleating:

tly pressed with heat. Cotton and linen will eventually lose the crisp edge. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Help finding image

/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html And scroll down. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com On 4/4/08, otsisto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Monica, > When a url is large you can shrink it here > http://tinyurl.com/ > > Thank you, > De > > > -Original Message---

Re: [h-cost] drafting/scaling corsets to size, was: Corset pattern 1895

now suit an 1890s line of corset which is fairly close to what I have wound up making my alterations to my 1880s corset. I just know it fits well as it is apart from the adjustments to the upper half. Michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] portraits?

html http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11.516 The softness and roundness of the way her features have been painted as well as the style of dress. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] portraits?

This thread has seriously derailed my current thoughts where were in armour and modern costume mode. And I seriously need to redo links all over the show as Gabrius has departed. But now I have a whole lot of new links to replace them with :D Regards, Michael

Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

> > Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted > > confirmation. You > > can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com http://www.myspace.com/1aspasia (no .com after that) Best to copy and paste as, in my mail anyway, the automatic linking started from the 1 last time ;) You a

Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

> There's a nice book on Spanish costume, entitled [strangely enough] > "Hispanic Costume 1480- 1530" by R. M. Anderson (1979), where the > author has pulled together artwork of the period and grouped it by > garment type to show the development of styles. It's a great place > to get started

Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

port this idea rather more than a regular waisted garment? No idea if it is true or not but I could believe the rumour started after seeing this particular style! Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mai

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

o) and hanging sleeves of several types. Oh and you are lucky! The portrait of Ana does not having a matching carcanet and girdle! It is so hard finding enough metal findings to make such matching items... very annoying. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

t in the very back where I want it and the tension in the pleats will keep the fabric from falling too far forward. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

sed over into artwork, or the skirts were on occasion cut the same way. I don't really think so though given the pattern repeats in portraits don't bear this out. And the faldallin are cut so there is no vertical seam in the front. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com __

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

ness of style. http://www.allposters.com/-st/Alonso-Sanchez-Coello-Posters_c65778_.htm That may have been oil on canvas (according to another poster site). Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Help with Alcega was: Re: Spanish gown

ible) in a silk twill I bought in pistachio green, and have wine toned velvet casings if I can budget it. There will also be enough to make a matching corset (corpo baxo/corpino) though they tended to match the kirtle- thus why Alcega has them in the same pattern qui

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

>> Oh! Yes there is a bit of a layout if you look at an extant gown that >> is laid flat: http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm > > Two things bother me about this sleeve. On the site, she mentions that they > were cut at the top to accomodate the statue, and also they seem to be two > pl

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

les in art, so it's not going to be quite the same shape as you would get extrapolating from the art as I was doing. It also has a gentle curve up the back of the arm, which again makes me happier about my own pattern. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com _

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

ac.uk/content/proj/anglo/dict/pro-anglo-dict-main.html Mongia,f.monkerie Mongil,m.a monks garment, a mourning garment for a woman Mongilon, a mourning garment for a woman. In the men's section there are some religious themed garments as well. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com _

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

> Yes the Alcega is much narrower than most of the examples in art, so > it's not going to be quite the same shape as you would get > extrapolating from the art as I was doing. It also has a gentle curve > up the back of the arm, which again makes me happier about my own > pattern. Actually,

Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for "bad" examples)

r issues. Most of the time I do stick it out, but I'm looking at having to change how I do things. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] More 1890s film discovered

Wow! Thanks for posting this :) I just forwarded the link withthe video in it. Amazing it's incredibly clear so I suspect there was a spot of restoration that went into it! The woman with the neck ruff, amazing to see a fashion in motion like that :) And all the hats... Michaela http://glitterswee

Re: [h-cost] Victorian corset on UK TV- & wearing a corset

nto my back and the hips can be fitted more snugly. For spiral laced garments I still the lacing in the front. I do want to be able to always dress myself as easily as I'm able to. Everyone's mileage varies in this aspect ;) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___

Re: [h-cost] Mary I ???

> http://z.about.com/d/womenshistory/1/0/Y/Q/2/mary_i_tudor_holbein_001a.jpg > > Anyone seen this one before - the image name indicates it is a Holbein?? French. Probably originally a Clouet (or two.. or three) but yes a 19thC print of it. So it may well have originally been labeled as Mary Stu

Re: [h-cost] Corset boning with zip ties

Love them. Just make sure to use them like you would reeds or baleen: ie every channel or every second channel. And make sure to bone the entire thing or get some additional support in there. Metal is a newer material and essentially allowed for a lot of cutting back of the amount of boning require

Re: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

Very little need for math at all. Just do as Emma says. You will wind up with pleats possibly just shy of a full return going by the numbers. I usually though just mark how many pleats I want on the narrow part and then do the same with the wider. Match pin to pin and fold the pleats. If I want a r

Re: [h-cost] Peacock Wedding Dress

Was a great mimic of the real deal right next to it ;) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com On 4/14/09, app...@aol.com wrote: > The skirt is awesome, but I really hate the print bodice. They couldn't find > something that actually matched the feathers? >

Re: [h-cost] Yardage and Rambling, was: Re: Pattern for red dress on Dr Who

On 5/6/09, Käthe Barrows wrote: > > And I agree with whoever > > suggested true box pleats for that nice bodice detail. > Knife pleats would do just as well, and would take up less fabric. They'll take up just as much fabric, box pleats are just knife pleats with one half pointing one way and t

[h-cost] Judging styles was Re: losing points in judging

riteria to work on. I think we took two hours to judge 6 hats last weekend. Comments and marking schedule included. Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Pair of Bodies for a petite figure.

perience as the original wearer. regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com On 5/21/09, Melanie Schuessler wrote: > Yes, but this version of the corset doesn't have boning in the sides and > back--only down the front. On a slender figure, it's not really a problem > u

Re: [h-cost] German early Renaissance gowns

> Despite looking at a lot of paintings, I am still puzzled about the waist > closure of early Renaissance gowns. For example, here: > http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1525_2.shtml and detail here: > http://www.marquise.de/images/1500/1525_2d1.jpg Best place to go is the Extant Mary of Hung

Re: [h-cost] Question about a portrait

On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 7:22 PM, Elizabeth Walpole < ewalp...@grapevine.com.au> wrote: > I'm pretty sure this is from the decoration in the British Parliament, > there > is a series of all the kings and queens of England and they all have a gold > background and a caption underneath, > I think it

Re: [h-cost] Lacing question

My favourite is a thin nylon braid that is easy to tie and untie and lies flat when laced. It looks like a narrow flat kind of shoe lace, not the solid round cords. This stuff will not shred even on metal eyelets thatare perhaps not as well hammered as others- I tested a small piece on the edge of

Re: [h-cost] Curtain tape as costume supply item?

or waist tape and other support type uses. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Laser scissors

d really only useful if you have a steady hand to begin with ;) And you wouldn't need a guide. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Bildindex is in English now!

your date fields to a few decades you can usually have enough to choose from without having to go through thousands of images. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com *Which I perfectly understand and I would expect from a place where English is not the main language!

Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

tm for canvas to the same iij d." (btw I love this "Itm for a grete basket for the Quenes stuf vj d"" for her "stuff") Mary's wardrobe accounts apparently include a fine paste buckram for a farthingale I think Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com _

Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

for it but couldn't find anything leading directly to it but it is probably in the British Library. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

I'd like to know what the link is between the use of the terms. Is it just and English term as well? I would like to do some hunting in texts of other lands. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] lacing rings

What do you guys use for lacing rings? I just found this vendor: It depends. For large meant to be seen rings I use 13mm brass rings from the curtain section of Spotlight/Harvey furnishing etc. Anywhere you can buy everything to make a curtain. They come in several sizes and treatments: http://w

Re: [h-cost] What R U doing this weekend

"tag" "midwinter" you will find all my posts about it. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com Yes my costumes were in the house, no they weren't burnt but they were smoke andheat damaged to some degree but most have been salvageable. __

Re: [h-cost] What R U doing this weekend

Goodness! A house fire sounds dreadful! Good to hear that you survived, though! I was extremely lucky to have been away from home, I normally would have been in bed when it happened. And congrats on the impending elevation (welcome to the Grove and all that ). The gown should be lovely--the

Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening

mottled grey colour and is reasonably easy to get. It's light weight and washable. After washing it loses a little stiffness but it sound slike it will still be quite ideal for a light linen. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___

Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place (now meaning folk dress) Trachtenbucher of the 16thC were books of dress of different lands. What is the context, and what is it in a Ducth, German or Danish book? It may mean to dress the dish;). I've never know it to mean to try.

Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.

The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to share. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm Exquisite Bjarne:) I was a little busy when you had posted the different ways you were going to trim the gown and I'm pleased you decided on what you did. I really should get ba

[h-cost] Latest project, red and black "German" renaissance

Hello all, As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in the SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the ceremony. I have at least got images and progress to show, but won't have much more until after as time is pressing (I wear it a week tomorrow) and t

[h-cost] Latest project, red and black

Hello all, (Sorry if this goes through twice, it appears as if my first mail is stuck in my sent folder in gmail) As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in the SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the ceremony. I have at least got images and prog

Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

Bjarne, do you know of any German, Danish or Dutch food called Trachten? I have heard this word to mean "to try" or "try to" but several who are trying to translate a 1500s Germanic recipe book thinks that is is a food of some sort. Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place

Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the context is going to be very important. If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb. http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_Rumpolt1.htm Further down it's taken to

Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula

> Really? What period? I'd have to dig up the reference, but the robe and particularly the hair (yes, the butt-hair) were based on 15th-century Romanian burial costume. I'm pretty sure the book of the costumes said they were based on Kabuki costume rather than anything European. That said Lucy's

Re: [h-cost] Machine versus thread

e black. And that goes for their poly thread as well. I wonder if it has anything to do with the dye being corrosive on the thread at all. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glitterswet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Updates to my site, input desired

as it may clutter the list up.) My own costume section needs updating too but that will have to wait as I have no pictures of recent work that really shows it off well. And I need to get permission to use images;) Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glitte

Re: [h-cost] Re: Updates to my Site

d your site ROCKS! Thank you:) It's going to undergo a cosmetic change as well, probably incorporating my style sheets from my personal costume section but altered to suit the nature of the topics. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

ound them (but not into the elastic) then tack one end, pull the other to fit tack that down, trim of the excess. The area will gather a little when not worn but fit smoothly when worn. http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/2007/08/butterick-4745-simplicity-3837.html Described a little

Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online

e had to plan lunch > in a local restaurant & bring photo albums. Yep:) Since 1999 but it's shifted about and had a few makeovers;) http://costumes.glittersweet.com Now off to go look at the links before me. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] chain of office for Elizabethan

liffe, 3rd Earl of Sussex (1526/7-83) , three-quarter-length, in the robes, collar and George of the Order of the Garter, holding the Lord Chamberlain's white rod" "The present portrait can be counted among those that post-date his appointment as Lord Chamberlain in 1572, since he i

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

> What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? A few pins. Now my other dummy, my full length these are my curves (OMGargh!) dummy is wearing a non historical item that is still in the process of being made. And no I can't say what that is. Suffice to say she is practically nekkid at this point becau

Re: [h-cost] Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. was: Enough!!!!!..... and a return

> It does indeed look like damask to me, also, but I'm not an expert. Also, > the second red "stripe" - it looks to me like it's been laid over the damask > and "reverse appliqued" (design cut out of the red and stitched rather than > the yellow being applied on top of the red). What do you think

Re: [h-cost] Another German Gown

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/c/cranach/lucas_e/5/01duke.html Katharina again in an even better view. > http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507&Empnum=0&Inicio=61 > Scroll down to Salomé con la cabeza de San Juan Bautista #12 I can't tell if > it is lace or pearlwork or both. > Love the s

Re: [h-cost] Another German Gown

> The hemd is painted to be very sheer and there looks to be something very > sheer under the forearm I'm not sure that it is. It looks more like there was a belt originally that was painted over. The curve matches the way he painted them in other artworks. > but the angle of the white speckle c

Re: [h-cost] Dream costume project

orical side. I do media recreations as well and have been getting through my backlog of Want to Do :) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com http://glittersweet.deviantart.com http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-c

Re: [h-cost] The term "hennin"

> What's bothering me here is, why should these headdresses be associated > with roosters? Roosters are male, and these are female fashions. Yes, I > know a cock has a "comb" on its head but still, this seems to be a stretch. > Even if it's an insult, it seems to me that there should be some kind

Re: [h-cost] google images

> My daughter is trying to gather some images from google on women in 1920s era > advertising. Every time she clicks on an image, a full-page ads-by-google > pops up and completely hides the image and the original web site. The address > in the browser is "buyvintage ads" .com or something. Go

Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair:

the theme of ponytail wrapped and twisted. http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/19thc/1880sheer.htm That's how I did this, though without time to dress myself as well as others I didn't use any spray or anything to help my hair stay fluffy all day. Michaela de Bruce h

Re: [h-cost] Hooks & bars problem

x27;ve been super careful with my stitches to be neater on the outside than inside ;) Luckily most of the guarding I do sits about 5mm from the edge so it's quite perfect to hide stitches. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?

7;s skirt has pleats that are wider than they are deep, or rather there are narrow knife pleats with expanses of unpleated fabric. Not really something you can rigorously calculate ;) Michaela -- http://arrayedindreams.com http://neimhaille.tumblr.com http://glittersweet.deviantart.com

Re: [h-cost] 1880s hair-styling terms: crimps and "fedoras"

he >> whole thing in place and let it dry. Yep, Harper's Bazaar even has a how to on this for the very late 1860s or early 1870s. I've done it and you get super super crimped and frizzy hair! Regards, Michaela de Bruce -- http://arrayedindreams.com http://neimhaille.tumblr.com h

Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

;s bias-cut > fabrics. It is only with the passage of time that one can see clearly how > all-pervasive the designer's contemporary aesthetics have been." It is one > of my favourite costume books, it has given me an extra layer of fun when I > watch the wonderful old movies. &g

Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

I have a display mannequin in the lounge, but she is naked, she is mainly holding a sci-fi alien headpiece up to prevent it deforming. So I'm going to put that on once I finish typing :) My dressform is loaned out to a friend, and the one I have borrowed in replacement is also naked while I tidy m

Re: [h-cost] searching for 1887 misses' fashion illustrations

I know I have a number of group photos from the 1880s, but they are obviously dressed for the photos. http://store.doverpublications.com/0486265331.html I think may be one of the books, the other was a huge tome, green cover, just trying to remember the name. https://books.google.co.nz/books/about/

Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

There are heaps of patterns and guides already, it's just many books are now OOP. Waugh did her (nicely sized) book some time ago, and same with the Danish National Museum (some of which are online as pdfs- and there are a range of garments tidenstoj*- but I understand the books are really huge- or

Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

, including cloth layouts. On 9 February 2016 at 12:11, michaela de bruce wrote: > There are heaps of patterns and guides already, it's just many books are > now OOP. Waugh did her (nicely sized) book some time ago, and same with the > Danish National Museum (some of which are onlin

Re: [h-cost] Non destructive testing for wool/synthetic

Super fast way: wool is a natural fibre and has scales. So this means that like human hair you have a smooth direction and a not smooth direction. If you take a lock of hair, hold it tight you can easily run another finger down the length but it catches on the way up. Wool I think is less scaly,