Re: [h-cost] 19th century clothing in need of a new home

[annbwass]

I would also like to suggest that this be shared with the Costume Society of 
America's membership.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Mary Bucher 
To: h-costume 
Sent: Mon, Feb 13, 2017 1:24 pm
Subject: [h-cost] 19th century clothing in need of a new home

Hi,

I received the following query through my website. If you are interested or
have any suggestions, please reply to Katherine Dill katherined...@yahoo.com

Thanks,
~mary

=


A small local historical society in Indiana has literally hundreds of
garments for which we need to find a new home. They are mid/late 1800s
and early 1900s, primarily women's, though some girls' and men's
clothing.

Do you have any interest or have any idea at all a company/museum that
might want them? I could provide a list of the items of you would like
more information about what we have. We really have no use for them
and need to relocate them. Thanks.
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Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

[annbwass]

Actually, a dear friend of mine's mother-in-law chose a beige dress for another 
of her children's weddings. And beige was just about the least flattering color 
I could imagine for the dear lady. She may have been of a generation where she 
took such advice seriously.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 12:48 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

Who follows these antiquated guidelines? And the insults they portray?! The 
Dream may be the bride's but the occasion is also with expectations of 
celebration for the mother's who get to be Themselves. Harmony and affinity for 
the occasion seems to me to allow whatever one chooses. For daughter 31, I wore 
a teal hand embroidered sundress with matching bolero jacket; my daughter was 
wearing an antique eyelet gown (1879) .It was a farm garden occasion.
My other daughter chose  a  princess tea-length dress of white cotton 
shantung..with jacket; The neckline and sleeve edgings were embroidered..white 
on white. Her site was a Friend'd Meeting House. Both mothers did wear varities 
of Beige after noon dresses. Harmonious  for the occasion.
La! _
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
scourney 
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 10:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

I thought that was the comment for the mother of the groom - show up, shut up, 
and wear beige. I'm a rapidly greying blonde with pale skin, and in beige I'd 
be almost invisible. Which perhaps is the point.Susan

 Original message 
From: annbw...@aol.com
Date: 01/27/2016  6:15 AM  (GMT-08:00)
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

The mother of the bride wears beige and keeps quiet. But I would think another 
color would be more fun.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 9:12 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

Was at a 20s/30s wedding in June past...The 'other women' of the wedding party 
all wore shades of beige silk and lace...including mothers and grandmother.  
The BMs had different styles (kneeish) Quite a lovely affair.

From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
Susan 
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 3:09 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

Lace perhaps, but Not Beige.  Leaning toward a 30s formal inspired dress.

Susan
- Original Message -
From: 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:46 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear


> NOT beige lace!
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker 
> To: h-costume 
> Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 8:17 pm
> Subject: [h-cost] Wedding wear
>
> I'm no help, either. The last wedding I went to, here in Texas, everyone
> but the bride came in jeans and cowboy boots. :-)
>
> I'd love to go to a wedding in a bustle dress!
>
>> My son is getting married next month in LA, and I have no idea what to
>> make to wear to an afternoon wedding, with an evening reception. He
>> wasn't much help (wear a bustle dress he said...  she said, whatever.)
>
> Happy sewing,
>Deb Salisbury
>The Mantua-Maker
>Quality Historical Sewing Patterns
>www.mantua-maker.com
>
> New Nonfiction:
>The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879
>Fashion, Sewing, and Clothes Care Advice
>  https://mantua-maker.com/1870s_Dressmaking_Book.html
>
> New Fantasy Novel:
> Sorcery's Child: The Mindbender's Rise #2
>http://www.djsalisburybooks.com/sorcery-s-child.html
>
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

[annbwass]

Hard to decide which is worse--black or beige. I like COLOR!!! Never could see 
the appeal of black. But the tiaras are cool.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Carmen Beaudry 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 2:53 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

My daughter has requested that all of her wedding party, including the mothers 
of the bride and groom, wear black. The mothers will also be wearing tiaras.

Carmen

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 27, 2016, at 11:06 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Actually, a dear friend of mine's mother-in-law chose a beige dress for 
> another of her children's weddings. And beige was just about the least 
> flattering color I could imagine for the dear lady. She may have been of a 
> generation where she took such advice seriously.
> 
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 12:48 pm
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> Who follows these antiquated guidelines? And the insults they portray?! The 
> Dream may be the bride's but the occasion is also with expectations of 
> celebration for the mother's who get to be Themselves. Harmony and affinity 
> for the occasion seems to me to allow whatever one chooses. For daughter 31, 
> I wore a teal hand embroidered sundress with matching bolero jacket; my 
> daughter was wearing an antique eyelet gown (1879) .It was a farm garden 
> occasion.
> My other daughter chose  a  princess tea-length dress of white cotton 
> shantung..with jacket; The neckline and sleeve edgings were 
> embroidered..white on white. Her site was a Friend'd Meeting House. Both 
> mothers did wear varities of Beige after noon dresses. Harmonious  for the 
> occasion.
> La! _
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
> scourney 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 10:47 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> I thought that was the comment for the mother of the groom - show up, shut 
> up, and wear beige. I'm a rapidly greying blonde with pale skin, and in beige 
> I'd be almost invisible. Which perhaps is the point.Susan
> 
>  Original message 
> From: annbw...@aol.com
> Date: 01/27/2016  6:15 AM  (GMT-08:00)
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> The mother of the bride wears beige and keeps quiet. But I would think 
> another color would be more fun.
> 
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 9:12 am
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> Was at a 20s/30s wedding in June past...The 'other women' of the wedding 
> party all wore shades of beige silk and lace...including mothers and 
> grandmother.  The BMs had different styles (kneeish) Quite a lovely affair.
> 
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
> Susan 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 3:09 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> Lace perhaps, but Not Beige.  Leaning toward a 30s formal inspired dress.
> 
> Susan
> - Original Message -
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:46 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
> 
> 
>> NOT beige lace!
>> 
>> Ann Wass
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker 
>> To: h-costume 
>> Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 8:17 pm
>> Subject: [h-cost] Wedding wear
>> 
>> I'm no help, either. The last wedding I went to, here in Texas, everyone
>> but the bride came in jeans and cowboy boots. :-)
>> 
>> I'd love to go to a wedding in a bustle dress!
>> 
>>> My son is getting married next month in LA, and I have no idea what to
>>> make to wear to an afternoon wedding, with an evening reception. He
>>> wasn't much help (wear a bustle dress he said...  she said, whatever.)
>> 
>> Happy sewing,
>>   Deb Salisbury
>>   The Mantua-Maker
>>   Quality Historical Sewing Patterns
>>   www.mantua-maker.com
>> 
>> New Nonfiction:
>>   The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879
>>   Fashion, Sewing, and Clothes Care Advice
>> https://mantua-maker.com/1870s_Dressmaking_Book.html
>> 
>> New Fantasy Novel:
>> Sorcery's Child: The Mindbender's Rise #2
>>   http://www.djsalisburybooks.com/sorcery-s-child.html
>> 
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> 

Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

[annbwass]

The mother of the bride wears beige and keeps quiet. But I would think another 
color would be more fun.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2016 9:12 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

Was at a 20s/30s wedding in June past...The 'other women' of the wedding party 
all wore shades of beige silk and lace...including mothers and grandmother.  
The BMs had different styles (kneeish) Quite a lovely affair.

From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
Susan 
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 3:09 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

Lace perhaps, but Not Beige.  Leaning toward a 30s formal inspired dress.

Susan
- Original Message -
From: 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:46 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear


> NOT beige lace!
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker 
> To: h-costume 
> Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 8:17 pm
> Subject: [h-cost] Wedding wear
>
> I'm no help, either. The last wedding I went to, here in Texas, everyone
> but the bride came in jeans and cowboy boots. :-)
>
> I'd love to go to a wedding in a bustle dress!
>
>> My son is getting married next month in LA, and I have no idea what to
>> make to wear to an afternoon wedding, with an evening reception. He
>> wasn't much help (wear a bustle dress he said...  she said, whatever.)
>
> Happy sewing,
>Deb Salisbury
>The Mantua-Maker
>Quality Historical Sewing Patterns
>www.mantua-maker.com
>
> New Nonfiction:
>The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879
>Fashion, Sewing, and Clothes Care Advice
>  https://mantua-maker.com/1870s_Dressmaking_Book.html
>
> New Fantasy Novel:
> Sorcery's Child: The Mindbender's Rise #2
>http://www.djsalisburybooks.com/sorcery-s-child.html
>
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

[annbwass]

NOT beige lace!

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker 
To: h-costume 
Sent: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 8:17 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Wedding wear

I'm no help, either. The last wedding I went to, here in Texas, everyone 
but the bride came in jeans and cowboy boots. :-)

I'd love to go to a wedding in a bustle dress!

> My son is getting married next month in LA, and I have no idea what to
> make to wear to an afternoon wedding, with an evening reception. He
> wasn't much help (wear a bustle dress he said...  she said, whatever.)

Happy sewing,
Deb Salisbury
The Mantua-Maker
Quality Historical Sewing Patterns
www.mantua-maker.com

New Nonfiction:
The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879
Fashion, Sewing, and Clothes Care Advice
  https://mantua-maker.com/1870s_Dressmaking_Book.html

New Fantasy Novel:
Sorcery's Child: The Mindbender's Rise #2
http://www.djsalisburybooks.com/sorcery-s-child.html

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Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

[annbwass]

My mannequin is wearing a partially completed shift that was a massive fail. I 
have to re-think the whole thing, so there it hangs.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, Jan 14, 2016 10:37 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

One mannequin is holding a robe for Queen Anne, hems and trim are waiting 
patiently,
Queen Maud is fitfully pacing about because her coronation gown is still 
without the sleeve lace she has chosen and it  has not arrived yet. Her white 
morning robes are constantly being donned and cast aside. I fear they will be 
dusty before the package has arrived!

We have a new client, (Mrs Jack Gardner) Isabella. She has been asked to sit 
for Mr Sargent and has decided nothing in the closet will do. Measurements have 
been taken and a lovely bolt of black silk velvet chosen. The patterns are 
being drafted with the help of friend Miss Grimble. Mona is looking wildly 
about for pearls We may have to get them matched and restrung as they are to 
adorn the waist. Wish us God-speed as we have heard that she is Very 
particular) (Truth be told, after our exploits with Q.Maud, I think we should 
feel quite practiced in completing this project!!)

From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com  on behalf of 
michaela de bruce 
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 6:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

I have a display mannequin in the lounge, but she is naked, she is mainly
holding a sci-fi alien headpiece up to prevent it deforming. So I'm going
to put that on once I finish typing :)

My dressform is loaned out to a friend, and the one I have borrowed in
replacement is also naked while I tidy my art space. I have just restored
my sewing/ironing desk top so I can actually start working again :) I have
a new removeable cover to finish sewing as well. Then I can iron huge
applique pieces again.

As for current projects:
Finally finishing my c1600 Spanish gown, stage one anyway. I decided I
probably won't have enough trim for the doublet and the galerilla as I
thought so doublet is a higher priority. It means all new stays, finishing
the underlayers and tracking down lace of a suitable size.
While doing this I have documentation to write up, which means a fair
amount of scanning so, ugh. Got that to look forward to.

I also have an Elsa spring gown to make (Frozen Fever) as the ice gown
sleeves can get a little warm at big children's events :)

Michaela
--
http://arrayedindreams.com
https://instagram.com/i.chimaera/
https://www.facebook.com/mdb.i.chimaera
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Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

[annbwass]

 Yes, that is a great book, and I almost cited it, too. 

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Viv Watkins 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, Jan 6, 2016 12:02 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

There is a fascinating book - "Hollywood and History - Costume Design in 
Film" which looks how costume designers present historical dress.   It was 
published in 1988 to accompany an exhibition mounted at the Los Angeles 
County Museum of Art.  Part of the foreword says "Contemporary viewers are 
not aware that the costumes reflect their own standards of style and 
beauty - that the cave-dwellers' costumes are cut to emphasise the 1940's 
silhouette, that the antebellum dresses are made with 1930's bias-cut 
fabrics.  It is only with the passage of time that one can see clearly how 
all-pervasive the designer's contemporary aesthetics have been." It is one 
of my favourite costume books, it has given me an extra layer of fun when I 
watch the wonderful old movies.

Viv Watkins.

-Original Message- 
From: R Lloyd Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 3:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

Re the styles of dresses, I still have to chuckle at the 18th C 
interpretions in films of the '20s-30s where the gowns have dropped waists. 
In an earlier production of W the fashion tone is Audrey Hepburn all the 
way. It seems that one can peg the date of the film release by the tweaked 
styles that give a nod to contemporary fashion. Other interesting film 
studies are the costumes for Victoria and Albert and Dr Zhivago.The latter 
spawned a popular contemporary Fashion..the Maxie dress line. 

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Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

[annbwass]

Lucky you! I schemed to get to Boston to see it but just couldn't.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Katy Bishop 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, Jan 6, 2016 12:08 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

Absolutely, I worked on that show, dressing mannequins when it came to
Boston. Opening up a Renaissance dress and seeing a big honking zipper and
padded bullet shaped bust cups was so funny.

On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 12:00 PM, Viv Watkins 
wrote:

> There is a fascinating book - "Hollywood and History - Costume Design in
> Film"  which looks how costume designers present historical dress.   It was
> published in 1988 to accompany an exhibition mounted at the Los Angeles
> County Museum of Art.  Part of the foreword says "Contemporary viewers are
> not aware that the costumes reflect their own standards of style and beauty
> - that the cave-dwellers' costumes are cut to emphasise the 1940's
> silhouette, that the antebellum dresses are made with 1930's bias-cut
> fabrics.  It is only with the passage of time that one can see clearly how
> all-pervasive the designer's contemporary aesthetics have been." It is one
> of my favourite costume books, it has given me an extra layer of fun when I
> watch the wonderful old movies.
>
> Viv Watkins.
>
> -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell
> Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 3:20 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"
>
> Re the styles of dresses, I still have to chuckle at the 18th C
> interpretions in films of the '20s-30s where the gowns have dropped waists.
> In an earlier production of W the fashion tone is Audrey Hepburn all the
> way. It seems that one can peg the date of the film release by the tweaked
> styles that give a nod to contemporary fashion. Other interesting film
> studies are the costumes for Victoria and Albert and Dr Zhivago.The latter
> spawned a popular contemporary Fashion..the Maxie dress line.
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

[annbwass]

Some of my Facebook friends are following. No one shoulder bare, or many, many, 
other things. I know it's theater, but even allowing for that, seems very 
weird. My opinion is, even though it is a story, it is based so firmly in a 
historical time and place, it seems downright strange to go off on such flights 
of fancy. Wonder if there will be a "making of" wherein it is explained?

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Kate Bunting 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Tue, Jan 5, 2016 4:52 am
Subject: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

Did any list members in the UK see the new BBC dramatization of "War and
Peace" on Sunday? I know ladies' gowns of that period (1805) were inspired
by classical draperies, but would it really have been acceptable to wear an
asymmetrical dress leaving one shoulder bare? There were at least two
examples of evening gowns in this style as well as some with narrow
shoulder straps which seemed jarringly modern to me.

Kate Bunting
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Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

[annbwass]

If we all liked the same thing, there would only be vanilla ice cream, as they 
say.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Tue, Jan 5, 2016 2:17 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

I gave up on snarking at movie costumes many years ago.  Movies are 
fiction. They are not documentaries, they are not meant to be 
educational, and they are not made primarily for viewing by historic 
reenactors. In many, much of the history itself is, at best, speculation.

I don't watch movies for the costumes. I watch them to see whether it's 
good drama and looking for things to criticize just spoils the drama.  
When I want solid information I look elsewhere. And really, some of the 
Facebook discussions sound just like catty little junior-high girls 
gleefully tearing down each other's clothes.

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com



On 1/5/2016 2:59 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
> Some of my Facebook friends are following. No one shoulder bare, or many, 
> many, other things. I know it's theater, but even allowing for that, seems 
> very weird. My opinion is, even though it is a story, it is based so firmly 
> in a historical time and place, it seems downright strange to go off on such 
> flights of fancy. Wonder if there will be a "making of" wherein it is 
> explained?
>
> Ann Wass
>
>

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Re: [h-cost] What costume-related gifts did everyone get?

[annbwass]

One of these days, I hope I can splurge on the Fashion Plate book. Bought 
Cassidy's hot of the press in Louisville. 

Alas, I didn't get anything costume related, but I didn't ask for anything, 
either.

Merry Christmas to everyone!

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Fri, Dec 25, 2015 1:43 pm
Subject: [h-cost] What costume-related gifts did everyone get?

My husband gave me the following books:

The First Book of Fashion: The Book of Clothes of Matthaeus and Veit 
Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg

Fashion Plates: 150 Years of Style, by April Calahan

Regency Women's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830, by Cassidy Percoco

and a biography:

Queen Victoria's Mysterious Daughter: A Biography of Princess Louise, by 
Lucinda Hawksley

Fran Grimble
Lavolta Press
Books of historic clothing patterns
www.lavoltapress.com





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Re: [h-cost] Retiring

[annbwass]

You might want to consider Etsy.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: costumegal66 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, Dec 24, 2015 2:31 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Retiring

Merry Christmas.  I'm still here.  I will be retiring my website next 
summer after the 20 year anniversary.  My bad health has not allowed me to work 
on it for the past couple of years.  I just want to make it to 20 years.   
After the holidays, I will start selling off some of my in-house library books 
and magazines.  My daughter-in-law is a costume design teacher, so she gets 
first choice. Is ebay still the best place to sell this type of items?Penny 
Ladnier Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message 
From: penhalion  Date: 12/17/2015  1:40 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: Historical Costume  Subject: Re: [h-cost] 
Is h-costume still going? I'm still around but I do most of my costume 
stuff on FB these days. I'd be happy if this list perked up a bit. I've been 
here since '97. KarenHappy Connecting. Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S® 
5 Original message From: Megan McHugh  
Date: 12/17/2015  12:13 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Historical Costume 
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? Still 
here too, lurking but haven't been sewing much lately.- MeganSent from my 
iPhone > On Dec 17, 2015, at 12:05 PM, Lynn Downward 
 wrote:> > I'm also here. You all predate me but I've 
been around for years and years.> > I've noticed that h-costume and 
h-needlework have been quiet. I don't do> much on FB so I'm glad to see some of 
us are still here.> LynnD> > On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 8:48 AM, Kate Bunting 
> wrote:> >> I'm still here too. I don't do much sewing 
but am still involved in>> historical reenactment.>> >> Kate Bunting>> >> On 
Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond <>> ca...@thyrsus.com> 
wrote:>>  On 12/17/2015 09:38 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:  I have 
been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to admit I 
don't read them.   I also have something to share--this is based on 
the paper I gave at the Jane Austen Society of North America's annual 
general meeting in>> Louisville in October.    
http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html>>> Thanks for the 
URL, Ann!>>> >>> My attempt to respond to the "is the list still going" post 
also drew a>>> rejection message.  Hopefully this will get through.>>> >>> 
-->>> Catherine Olanich Raymond>>> ca...@thyrsus.com>>> (610) 805-9542>>> >>> 
"Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn.">>> 
Benjamin Franklin>>> >>> >>> >>> 
___>>> h-costume mailing list>>> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>> 
___>> h-costume mailing list>> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> 
___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume___h-costume
 mailing 
listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costumeCheryl's
 Cookie Gifts 
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3165/5672fc5629d067c526276mp24duc___h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] Who's still here? & smock question

[annbwass]

You mean the farmer's big overshirt, right? (I ask because "smock" was also 
used as a term for a woman's shift or chemise, at least in parts of England. 
Read about smock races sometime.) Do you have the Shire album on the subject? 
 Also try "Dress of the People." I suspect the answer to your question, though, 
is probably not, but next to impossible to ferret out. If women did, they were 
probably rural residents doing hard work on farms, and, unless there is a stray 
traveler's account somewhere, unlikely to be recorded.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Susan 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Fri, Dec 18, 2015 12:10 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who's still here?  & smock question

Hi all,
I'm still here.  I get fed up with facebook, and rarely with email lists, so 
happy to see people.

Since you're all here ...  I've just gotten interested in english smocks 
(18th - 19th c ones) and was debating making one. I've requested a bunch of 
books from the library, and this question might be answered in one of them. 
But ...

Did women wear the traditional smocks?  in any era?

thanks, Susan c (in seattle) 

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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[annbwass]

While it may or may not have been authentic in the period, I, too, like it for 
interpreting at events. One can show what the garments looked like (since you 
are wearing them underneath) and also the whole art of hand sewing--but, as you 
say neatly and plainly. Of course, as with other reenacting decisions, your 
mileage may vary.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Fri, Dec 18, 2015 12:59 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

Hah, I like plain sewing for events. Darning. Mending— unpretentious stuff to 
prove to the general public that it IS possible to do the job neatly and make 
things last!==Marjorie Wilser> On Dec 17, 2015, at 11:47 AM, Terry 
 wrote:> > Makes sense.  That's what I do in my sewing 
circle--bring the nice stuff to work on and leave the ugly stuff at home.> > 
Terry___h-costume mailing 
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[annbwass]

I've been interested in charity sewing, too, and have found a few references in 
England. So far, I've had no luck finding firm evidence in the U.S. One of the 
things on my to-do list is to search the archives of a local Society of Friends 
meeting (Alexandria, VA) and records in Philadelphia to see if I can find any 
references. But I haven't gotten there yet--so many subjects, so little time! 

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Elizabeth Jones 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Fri, Dec 18, 2015 7:03 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I actually wonder about how charity sewing would fit in to the fancy
vs plain sewing rule in Mansfield Park there is one evening (I think
they have company over but I can't remember) when Mrs Norris complains
that Fanny should be sewing and if she has nothing of her own to work
on there is plenty of work in the 'poor box'. Implying that making
things for the poor (almost certainly underclothes, the workwoman's
guide is only slightly later than this novel and it has a lot to say
about making underclothes and baby clothes as charity) was a normal
and expected occupation for young ladies. If it was somehow clear that
what you were making was for the poor of the parish instead of your
own family working on that in public would show off your charitable
virtues (not a bad thing for a gentleman to look for in a wife as
anything that makes your tenants happier is likely to make your estate
more stable and profitable).
Elizabeth

On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 6:23 AM, Lavolta Press  wrote:
> I get the impression that in the nineteenth century there was "private"
> versus "public" needlework.  Unmarried young women, at least, tended to do
> mending and make underclothes (shirts fell into that category) only within
> the family (when no callers were expected) or at most, only in front of
> intimate female friends. Their public, "fine" needlework showed off their
> skills in embroidery, netting, and so forth. When they made calls, they
> might be embroidering a flounce for a dress, or embroidering a fire screen,
> but not mending stockings.  Unpretentious matrons and mothers of large
> families might do plain sewing and mending in a more public way, but elegant
> married women, not.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[annbwass]

I have been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to admit I 
don't read them.


I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave at the Jane 
Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in Louisville in 
October.



http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Robin Netherton 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 9:33 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) 
was rejected.On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:> Hi all,>> Is 
h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the 
link below does not work.>> Thanks!> -Carol> 
___>> h-costume mailing list>> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>> 
___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>-- 
Robin NethertonEditor, Medieval Clothing and Textilesrobin@netherton.netvoice: 
(314) 439-1222Life is just a bowl of 
queries.___h-costume mailing 
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[annbwass]

Had taken a hiatus to write, but I did make a doctor's coat for my 5 yr old GD 
for Christmas. It is based on the one Doc McStuffins wears, and I used my 
machine embroidery letters to put her name on it.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: aquazoo 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 12:46 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

You're welcome!

I suppose people could say what they are working on.

Right now I'm working on switching things to a new e-mail address. :-)

So, the url below doesn't do anything. I suppose I could try the sub and
unsub options. Does anyone have the info for that?

I tried "help" but the message bounced.

Thanks!
-Carol



> Thanks for letting me know you are all here.
> Monica Spence
>
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 9:31 AM
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
>
> I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by
> mistake) was rejected.
>
>
> On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for
>> it, but the link below does not work.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> -Carol
>>
>>
>>
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> --
> Robin Netherton
> Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
> ro...@netherton.net
> voice: (314) 439-1222
> Life is just a bowl of queries.
>
> ___
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ___
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[annbwass]

Oh, no doubt about that. I was looking more at making and mending, not fine 
needlework. I admit that is a whole other category, and it could be that some 
of the generic "sat at work" references were, as you say, fine needlework. But 
there were plenty of references to specific projects to clothing both mundane 
and not so mundane, albeit likely in a family or intimate friends setting. For 
example, we don't know much at all about Frances Baylor Hill's surroundings 
when she sewed. We know very little about her at all, unfortunately--not even 
how old she was.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 3:39 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I think the question is who a woman wanted (or needed) to impress, with both 
her fine needlework skills, and with the evidence that she had sufficient 
leisure to devote to those instead of mending and plain sewing.FranLavolta 
Presswww.lavoltapress.comOn 12/17/2015 12:13 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:> You 
are probably mostly right. However, Rachel Van Dyke did write once of taking 
her "bundles" of mending down when a friend called and so had one bundle less 
at the end of the visit. Of course, even those clothes in the bundle that 
needed mending may not have been the most intimate ones, or, as you say, it may 
have been an intimate friend--I don't think she specified. And yes, mending 
stockings seems to have been mostly a solitary pursuit and may have added to 
the drudgery of the chore. Hard to know if Ruth Henshaw was in company or alone 
when mending, but remember she was visiting away from home.>>> Ann Wass 
-Original Message-> From: Lavolta Press > To: 
Historical Costume > Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 2:23 pm> 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?>> I get the impression that in 
the nineteenth century there was "private" versus "public" needlework.  
Unmarried young women, at least, tended to do mending and make underclothes 
(shirts fell into that category) only within the family (when no callers were 
expected) or at most, only in front of intimate female friends. Their public, 
"fine" needlework showed off their skills in embroidery, netting, and so forth. 
When they made calls, they might be embroidering a flounce for a dress, or 
embroidering a fire screen, but not mending stockings.  Unpretentious matrons 
and mothers of large families might do plain sewing and mending in a more 
public way, but elegant married women, not.FranLavolta 
Presswww.lavoltapress.comOn 12/17/2015 6:38 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:> I have 
been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to admit I don't 
read them.>>> I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave 
at the Jane Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in 
Louisville in October. 
http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html>>> Ann Wass 
-Original Message-> From: Robin Netherton > To: 
Historical Costume > Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 9:33 am> 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?>> I'm here -- but my first post 
saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) was rejected.On 12/17/2015 
12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:> Hi all,>> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying 
to change my e-mail address for it, but the link below does not work.>> 
Thanks!> -Carol> ___>> 
h-costume mailing list>> h-costume@mail.indra.com>> 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>> 
___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>-- 
Robin NethertonEditor, Medieval Clothing and Textilesrobin@netherton.netvoice: 
(314) 439-1222Life is just a bowl of queries._> 
__h-costume mailing 
listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> 
___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>___h-costume
 mailing 
listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>> 
___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>___h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] historic cloth names, early 18th c

[annbwass]

Ferret is a woven tape trim. Dow lace is probably dowlas, a coarse linen 
fabric. Can't help with Scot cloth, though. 

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, Mar 6, 2015 2:13 am
Subject: [h-cost] historic cloth names, early 18th c


Interesting blog post
at
http://vita-brevis.org/2015/02/widow-lydia-scottows-wardrobe/?utm_source=twgnewsletterutm_medium=newsletterutm_campaign=twg729
discusses
historic fabric names from family accounts between appx. 1701- 1705.

I’d be
curious if any list members have reflections on the names listed there and their
definitions. There are a few terms near the end of the entry which the author,
not a sewer, couldn’t identify: nor can I.

Have fun!

==Marjorie Wilser


@..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad
Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/





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Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074

[annbwass]

 I think Sybella gave you a good answer. However, if the pattern instructions 
are that poorly written, I suggest you also let Butterick (McCall) know. You 
can't be the only frustrated user.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, Feb 27, 2015 1:49 am
Subject: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074


It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm
finding
this one confusing.

It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8
grosgrain, 7/8.

The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49,
57-59, and 66.

What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at
which step.
I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59
(attach
skirt to bodice)  and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline).

Can
anyone confirm this?

At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work;
I'm hoping it will
make more sense when I try it.

I also don't quite
understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know
there's a hook and eye.
I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline.
What do you do with the
shoelace attached to the inside center front; does
it wrap to the back and
tie?

DEFINITELY not my usual time
period.

Thanks,
Charlene
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Re: [h-cost] anyone here

[annbwass]

Unfortunately, they got three times as many submissions as they could take. 
Mine is called,
“I Am the Neatest Worker of the Party”: Making and Mending the Family’s Wardrobe

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Jan 20, 2015 1:25 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] anyone here


On 1/15/2015 5:11 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
 I'm also presenting a paper at the Jane Austen Society of North America's 
Annual General Meeting in Louisville in October.

Neat!  I submitted a breakout proposal for the Louisville AGM (my first 
time doing so), but didn't get accepted.  What's your paper on?

Emily

  

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Re: [h-cost] Ann Wass in Nola

[annbwass]

Thank you! That was great fun to make.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sat, Jan 17, 2015 4:59 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ann Wass in Nola


I love, love, love Ann's red costume in NOLA.

Penny Ladnier, Owner
The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery 

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Re: [h-cost] New Orleans

[annbwass]

 


Thank you Ann for the clarification.

 And Carol Kocian also clarified.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sat, Jan 17, 2015 3:07 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans


Thank you Ann for the clarification.

Penny Ladnier, Owner
The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com 
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery  

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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 2

[annbwass]

Sorry--I didn't get any pics of the Cabildo, and photos of the exhibit weren't 
allowed. Again, most of the photos these days are shared on Facebook. I only 
got pics of one of the reenactment battles and my workshop, and I haven't 
posted anywhere but Facebook. I guess I could put on FLICKR, but I always 
forget my Yahoo password! 

I can share some links to albums of the reenactment site.

Here is a link to someone's album.

https://plus.google.com/photos/112956783069519081964/albums/6103735600168710881?authkey=CLfd3fKO3KucNQ

And here is another.

http://tgdavison-photography.smugmug.com/Re-enactments/1812/Battle-of-New-Orleans-815/i-PJXPCj7

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Debra Brightwell picma...@bellsouth.net
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Jan 15, 2015 10:17 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 2


Ann, do you have photos posted somewhere? I would love to see them. I remember 
seeing the Cabildo and Jackson Square when I was young, would love to go visit 
especially during a reenactment like this.
Thanks,
Debra 


On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 2:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com 
h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:
  


Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
h-costume@mail.indra.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than Re: Contents of h-costume digest...


Today's Topics:

   1. New Orleans (Carol Kocian)
   2. Re: Anyone here? (Wicked Frau)
   3. Re: Anyone here? (Wicked Frau)
   4. Re: Anyone still here? (. .)
   5. Re: Anyone here? (Kathryn Pinner)
   6. Re: Anyone here? (Joan Jurancich)
   7. Re: New Orleans (annbw...@aol.com)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 09:37:09 -0500
From: Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] New Orleans
Message-ID: 5ee07cee-9923-4429-a2d1-8823c38c5...@patriot.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


On Jan 14, 2015, at 6:29 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 Just got back from New Orleans, where we celebrated the 200th anniversary of 
the last major battle of the War of 1812. In addition to battlefield 
activities, 
I attended a ball at the Presbytere and a victory dinner at Antoine's. I think 
I 
have actually had enough of wearing period attire for a while!
 
 Ann Wass



I would like to hear more about this! New Orleans is costume-oriented anyway 
with Mardi Gras, so how did others react to the reenactors?

I was there in September on a business trip, and some tour guides, promoters, 
and shop salespeople tend to dress in historic, fantasy or goth styles.

-Carol


--

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 07:44:38 -0700
From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Cc: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?
Message-ID:
CAHPcGNqgSh=iwprXwih4c0t9AuVVRkAemRO6bq70n=daur3...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

My 2 ?
I help run our local SCA Equestrian group here in Arizona.  We to have had
to deal with a younger generation who prefers the FB, Twitter route.   Its
fine for sending out reminders and notifications but finding past
discussions is next to impossible.   So for historical purposes we use
Yahoo.  Its easy to post to a FB group and Yahoo simultaneously via email.
Both Yahoo and FB allow posting of files, and photos.

It has been said before on this list that many people are specializing in a
period and/or place and there are plenty of lists for those.  Even if they
aren't active it is easy to refer people to previous discussions.

Saragrace





On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 4:39 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
wrote:

 Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one.
 Is the list especially quiet?

 Sharon Collier

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-Sg-


--

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 07:44:38 -0700
From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Cc: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?
Message-ID:
CAHPcGNqgSh=iwprXwih4c0t9AuVVRkAemRO6bq70n=daur3...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

My 2 ?
I help run our local SCA Equestrian group here in Arizona.  We to have had
to deal with a younger generation who prefers the FB, Twitter route.   Its
fine for sending out reminders and notifications but finding past
discussions is next to impossible.   So for 

Re: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now!

[annbwass]

Pomona green continues into the third quarter of the 19th century, as I found 
in my research of that period. I have no real reason for this opinion, but I 
always thought of it as more of a yellow-green, like a green apple, so I have 
to say, none of your swatches.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Hope Greenberg h...@uvm.edu
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Jan 15, 2015 4:21 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now!



The color name pomona green appears throughout early 19th century 
fashion magazines. Fashion plates display women in pomona green gowns, 
or with pomona green accessories, and descriptions of the color usually 
refer to leaves or apples. First problem: the images depicted are 
showing a range of greens (understandable in that they are usually 
handpainted). Second problem: trying to find a green that matches any of 
the greens in that range is rather difficult in our current decade of 
very blue greens or very yellow/olive greens. Even the pantone color 
chart shows us that this range of greens doesn't seem to be in vogue.

So, here's a challenge! Which of the three fabrics linked here would you 
place in the closest to pomona green category. I know, none of them 
or you can't tell from an online picture are both logical responses as 
is just buy some and then decide! But I'm hoping some of you will take 
a stab at this. And if anyone knows of another site that has the perfect 
pomona green in a lightweight silk taffeta (especially at these prices) 
oh my! I would love to know about it. :-)

http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productproduct_id=4014
http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productproduct_id=2741
http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/productproduct_id=2163

and this is the color I'm most in love with in an illustration:
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/194991858836404282/


- Hope

P.S. And my apologies for sending a question about greens amidst the 
discussion about post mortem photographs...(groan: ducking and running).

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Re: [h-cost] New Orleans

[annbwass]

 


I have been following the NPS
reenactments since June for the 150th Siege of the Petersburg.  There were
reenactors at all the events.  I have been to all of their events.  

 

 They have reenactors who do living history demonstrations, but not battles. 
The big Gettysburg events, for example, are on private property nearby. Fort 
McHenry does a pageant type thing at the Fort. 

Ann Wass

 

-Original Message-
From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Jan 15, 2015 12:43 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans


Ann,

I am glad you had fun in NOLA.  I miss going there for Mardi Gras.  My last
year to go was 2012.  My back just will not allow it. :(

About the NPS not allowing reenactments...I have been following the NPS
reenactments since June for the 150th Siege of the Petersburg.  There were
reenactors at all the events.  I have been to all of their events.  

Penny Ladnier, Owner
The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery  

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Re: [h-cost] anyone here

[annbwass]

 


whatcha all working on presently?

 Finished a new shirt and pantaloons for my husband to wear in New Orleans. 
Scratched a couple of projects for me as time ran out. I figured most people 
had never seen what I already had, anyway. Did finish my shawl overdress and 
nankeen walking habit and a new bonnet in the fall. I found the Historical 
Sew Fortnightly a good incentive to get some of these things done.

Want to get back to my book proposal now. However, I'm also presenting a paper 
at the Jane Austen Society of North America's Annual General Meeting in 
Louisville in October. The rub is that they want a finished paper submitted by 
late August for possible publication. 

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Cin Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Jan 15, 2015 2:57 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] anyone here


I'm still here too tho I admit to reading other more specific lists elsewhere.  
S, whatcha all working on presently?

Sent with egregious spelling, random grammar  creative orthography from Siri  
I in Hawaii.
--cin

 On Jan 14, 2015, at 9:46 PM, Wanda pease wan...@hevanet.com wrote:
 
 Here among the lonely.
 
 Regina Romsey
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Jan 14, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Robert Pabinquit concertmast...@yahoo.com 
wrote:
 
 I still read the posts. As someone who makes clothing for Renaissance casts 
there have been many times these posts have come through with a detail I 
needed. 
Especially when a painting was posted or a site was shared. 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
 
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Re: [h-cost] New Orleans

[annbwass]

 




National Park Service will host/allow reenactors, including demonstrations of 
firing weapons. What they don’t allow are actual battle reenactments. 

 Yes, as I added, too. Reenactments are on private property nearby, if they 
happen. Gettysburg and Manassas, for example, as well as New Orleans.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Jan 15, 2015 1:50 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Orleans



On Jan 15, 2015, at 12:43 AM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com wrote:

 About the NPS not allowing reenactments...I have been following the NPS 
reenactments since June for the 150th Siege of the Petersburg.  There were 
reenactors at all the events.  I have been to all of their events.  



National Park Service will host/allow reenactors, including demonstrations of 
firing weapons. What they don’t allow are actual battle reenactments. 

-Carol
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?

[annbwass]

 


I discovered quite quickly that I definitely 
dislike it.  It is confusing and *way* too much of a time sink.

 I agree it is a time sink, but not as much as Pinterest! I have a Pinterest 
account but haven't done anything with it. Facebook is a good way to keep up 
with lots of people at once, and to include pictures. For instance, I posted 
each day of my trip to England two years ago and this recent trip to New 
Orleans.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg gilshal...@outlook.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Jan 14, 2015 4:03 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?


Greetings,
 
I'm still here.   Funny, I had just been thinking that things were awfully 
quiet, too.  I actually have a Facebook account (I needed it for something or 
other) but I rarely check it.  I discovered quite quickly that I definitely 
dislike it.  It is confusing and *way* too much of a time sink.  That is just 
my 
opinion, of course. 
Cheers 
Danielle 
 
 From: chim...@ravensgard.org
 Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 22:39:57 -0800
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?
 
 Yeah, it has been quiet.
 
 We don't do Facebook because we're OLD, we do still believe in privacy and 
don't think much of the merchandising of FB info.
 
 The weekend just past was Kingdom 12th Night here in AnTir, that kind of 
 thing 
might also obtain in other parts of the country???
 
 Now let's see if I can get this to mail without creating duplicates, or just 
refusing to go at all. argh.
 
 chimene
 
 
 On Jan 13, 2015, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote:
 
  Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one.
  Is the list especially quiet?
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] New Orleans

[annbwass]

As to how others reacted, we got a lot of questions about what was happening 
when. I new group, the Louisiana Living History Foundation, has been formed to 
manage a living history park with reenactments. (There is the Chalmette 
National Battlefield, but for those who don't know, US National Park Service 
rules prohibit battle reenactments on park ground, so this alternative site has 
been found and is being developed.) I don't think the word about events got out 
as well as it could have, though. The last battle was Sunday morning, so we had 
to tell people who asked that they missed it, but come next year. 

There was also a period ball Saturday night and a victory dinner at Antoine's 
Sunday night--both with quite a variety of evening wear, of course.

I presented a program for about 40 reenactors on Wednesday on dress in New 
Orleans, 1807-1820. I also led a work bag craft workshop in the reenactor 
women's salon on Friday morning and we had a tea in the afternoon.

Best public reactions for us--my husband, Jim, has a chintz tailored morning 
gown and waistcoat which he wore with his gray top hat for our second line 
parade through the French Quarter Friday night. That got a lot of attention. I 
also wore a day dress, spencer, and bonnet when I went to the Cabildo to see 
this exhibit on Sunday.
http://www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-museum/exhibits/battle-of-new-orleans/index
Two groups of girls asked about my outfit.


The exhibit has one room on the battle itself, with Andrew Jackson's uniform 
coat and two others from the period. The second room is the battle in popular 
culture, which includes a Western Costume British uniform from the 1957 
version of The Buccaneer. It is Technicolor red with gold cuffs, but 
otherwise bears little resemblance to an actual uniform. The exhibit is up 
through Jan. 6, 2016.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Jan 14, 2015 9:38 am
Subject: [h-cost] New Orleans



On Jan 14, 2015, at 6:29 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 Just got back from New Orleans, where we celebrated the 200th anniversary of 
the last major battle of the War of 1812. In addition to battlefield 
activities, 
I attended a ball at the Presbytere and a victory dinner at Antoine's. I think 
I 
have actually had enough of wearing period attire for a while!
 
 Ann Wass



I would like to hear more about this! New Orleans is costume-oriented anyway 
with Mardi Gras, so how did others react to the reenactors?

I was there in September on a business trip, and some tour guides, promoters, 
and shop salespeople tend to dress in historic, fantasy or goth styles.

-Carol
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?

[annbwass]

 


We don't do Facebook because we're OLD, we do still believe in privacy and 
don't 
think much of the merchandising of FB info.

 I'm old, too, but I have found Facebook great for costuming because it is so 
easy to share pictures, among other things. That is something we really can't 
do easily here. As to privacy, we don't have that much on email lists either, 
you know.

However, that said, if someone wants to start discussion again, I'll weigh in 
if I have something to add.

Just got back from New Orleans, where we celebrated the 200th anniversary of 
the last major battle of the War of 1812. In addition to battlefield 
activities, I attended a ball at the Presbytere and a victory dinner at 
Antoine's. I think I have actually had enough of wearing period attire for a 
while!

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Jan 14, 2015 1:41 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?


Yeah, it has been quiet.

We don't do Facebook because we're OLD, we do still believe in privacy and 
don't 
think much of the merchandising of FB info.

The weekend just past was Kingdom 12th Night here in AnTir, that kind of thing 
might also obtain in other parts of the country???

Now let's see if I can get this to mail without creating duplicates, or just 
refusing to go at all. argh.

chimene


On Jan 13, 2015, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote:

 Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one.
 Is the list especially quiet?


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Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?

[annbwass]

I think so. I believe many who used to come here regularly may have shifted to 
various Facebook groups--I know I have.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tue, Jan 13, 2015 6:40 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Anyone here?


Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one.
Is the list especially quiet?

Sharon Collier

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Re: [h-cost] from the news: fisherman jumper exhibition

[annbwass]

 Tightly woven and seamless

 Sigh--later, the article does state they are KNITTED, not woven.
Well, an article in the current Woman's Day calleds CROCHETED ornaments, 
Tiny Knits.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Jadran Kale jadran.k...@gmail.com
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 17, 2014 7:49 am
Subject: [h-cost] from the news: fisherman jumper exhibition


 Jump into naval history at fisherman jumper exhibition
 https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/aberdeen/400975/jump-into-naval-history-at-fisherman-jumper-exhibition/
 By Kieran Beattie
 14 November 2014

 Against the freezing cold winds and pouring rain of the raging North 
 Sea, the fishermen of the north-east’s maritime past relied on their 
 tight woollen jumpers to keep them warm through a harsh night’s fishing.

 Now these traditional jumpers are to be celebrated in a new exhibition 
 at the Aberdeen Maritime Museum.

 The jumpers, named ganseys or genzies, were traditionally worn by 
 fishermen and seamen all along the north-east coast, and featured a 
 huge variety of patterns to signify where the wearer came from.

 Tightly woven and seamless, the jumpers provided protection and warmth 
 at sea for the fishermen who worked in the industry that many of the 
 north east’s coastal towns were built on.

 Financed by the Heritage Lottery Fund and the Scottish Government, 
 more than 50 authentic ganseys will be on display at the Maritime 
 Museum, as well as information about the heritage and stories behind 
 the traditional jumpers.

 The project was organised by the Moray Firth Partnership (MFP), who 
 gathered information and ganseys for the exhibition.

 Partnership manager Kathryn Logan said: ” The gamseys themselves were 
 a special work garment that were tightly knitted without seems by 
 highly skilful women.

 “A single jumper would take between 100 and 200 hours to make, which 
 is why they wouldn’t be commercially viable nowadays.

 “They weren’t particularly waterproof or windproof, but they did the 
 job of keeping the men warm.

 “They would have intricate designs and patterns such as herrings nets, 
 anchors, ropes, and diamonds, and could even show if a fisherman was 
 married or not.

 “Although we haven’t been able to prove if different patterns 
 displayed the exact town or village these fishermen were from, we have 
 noticed common patterns in certain areas.

 “For example ganseys from around the Fraserburgh area would have a lot 
 of patterns repeated all down the body, but down south the patterns 
 would stop at the midriff.

 “The other reason for the exhibition is to try and keep these 
 traditional skills alive and pass them on to future generations, we’ve 
 been showing schoolkids the gamseys and telling them stories about how 
 they were made and the people that wore them.

 “Modern fishing boats are a luxury hotel compared to the situations 
 that the old fishermen had to bear.”

 The free exhibition will begin at the museum tomorrow and run until 
 February 28 next year.

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Re: [h-cost] any must-see exhibits in Dec or Jan?

[annbwass]

The Elizabeth Patterson Bonaparte exhibit at the Maryland Historical Society in 
Baltimore. You can get to Baltimore via light rail public transportation from 
BWI Airport, too.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com
To: h-needlework h-needlew...@lists.ansteorra.org; h-costume 
h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, Oct 24, 2014 1:26 pm
Subject: [h-cost] any must-see exhibits in Dec or Jan?


I need to fly somewhere in December or January to keep my frequent
flyer points active (apparently I've been using my husband's points
too much).

Therefore, I now have an excuse to go someplace in the continental US.
Are there any must-see museum exhibits you'd recommend? [Or any other
events, shows, points of interest, etc.; feel free to send to me
off-list.]

Thanks!
--Charlene
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Re: [h-cost] wardrobe size

[annbwass]

I've studied the Gunston Hall probate inventory database for late 18th-early 
19th century, and a friend shared some New England inventories from the same 
time. But it is frustrating in that there aren't that many women listed. Also, 
for both men and women, the enumerators sometimes didn't make a list, but just 
recorded, wearing apparel of the deceased with a lump sum value. Gee, thanks.

However, you can get snippets that way.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Heather Rose Jones heather.jo...@earthlink.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Oct 8, 2014 10:28 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wardrobe size


Wills are often a great place to research this type of question. Unlike a 
trousseau, they tend to reflect possessions at a random point in life (rather 
than a planned-for life transition).  There are a lot of researchers studying 
clothing represented in wills in various times and places, so you might be able 
to find a good selection across time. I sorry not to have specific authors or 
publications to recommend, but that might give you keywords to work from.

Heather

On Oct 8, 2014, at 4:16 PM, Cascio Michael wrote:

 Hello,
I'm trying to look into the size of the average middle-class woman's 
wardrobe through the centuries.  Finding advice on the trousseau is easier, at 
least after the advent of ladies' magazines but I'm most interested in how many 
dresses a middle class woman would own.  How common was the one dress for every 
day and one for Sunday with a multitude of aprons?  Do women start having more 
dresses after the advent of cheap cotton?  Since the list covers a large span 
of 
history I'm hoping for answers from many centuries.
   
   
Cassandra
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] wardrobe size

[annbwass]

 


 manuals of wardrobe advice

 Oh, yes. I used to collect these. One that told what a young woman should take 
to college, for example.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Oct 9, 2014 12:59 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wardrobe size


And for the 19th and 20th centuries, manuals of wardrobe advice and 
articles about it in fashion magazines.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on making historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com


On 10/8/2014 7:27 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
 Wills are often a great place to research this type of question.

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Re: [h-cost] Regency era evening gloves

[annbwass]

One sees funky-looking colors of gloves in plates.Of course white kid gloves 
tend not to be startlingly white, but they are also very expensive and hard to 
clean. So maybe go with a cream, or maybe a grayish-blue?

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: humbugfoto1 humbugfo...@att.net
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Sun, Jul 6, 2014 4:36 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Regency era evening gloves


I am making a Regency evening gown for a friend. It consists of a black 
lace overdress with a slate blue lining. I'm uncertain as to what color 
gloves should be worn with this color ensemble/ I think white gloves 
against the black and slate blue would look garish, and black gloves 
would look too much like mourning wear, which it is not. What would they 
have worn in Regency times?

Thanks,
Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[annbwass]

I use floral wire too, when I need something in a hurry and don't have time to 
mail order, but I do like millinery wire better.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, May 9, 2014 4:23 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!


Not knowing there was such a thing as brim wire, I used florist wire from
the craft store. Much cheaper. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2014 5:45 PM
To: H-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Brim wire!

I'm looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.

Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada..
slower and with duty. I'm in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum
order of $76- their low price. Right.

I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson's Raiments/ AlterYears but can't find a
presence on the web??

I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends.

Thanks, List!

==Marjorie


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[annbwass]

I've ordered from Judithm, too! Great service!

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, May 8, 2014 9:11 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!


Here too!  https://www.judithm.com/


On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 6:04 PM, Aurora Celeste auroracele...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've had good luck with Hats by Leko:  http://www.hatsupply.com


 On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  I’m looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.
 
  Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada….
  slower and with duty. I’m in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum
  order of $76— their “low” price. Right.
 
  I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson’s Raiments/ AlterYears but can’t find
 a
  presence on the web??
 
  I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends.
 
  Thanks, List!
 
  ==Marjorie
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[annbwass]

You can also find wire in different weights at a hardware store. I've also used 
picture hanging wire. Again, real millinery wire, with the wrapping, is nicer, 
but in a pinch or a hurry, I've used what I can get locally.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, May 9, 2014 10:05 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!


Thanks, Sharon!  I looked at florist wire but decided for the current 
application it was much too lightweight!

On May 9, 2014, at 1:22 AM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote:

 Not knowing there was such a thing as brim wire, I used florist wire from
 the craft store. Much cheaper. 
 Sharon C. 


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[annbwass]

Oh, ouch--I see Leko does now have a $79 minimum. Back when I ordered from 
them, it was around $25.
 
Bummer.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, May 9, 2014 10:06 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!


Thanks Kay, their  minimum order is $79 or something. . . alas!

On May 9, 2014, at 3:48 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote:

 Tis site has milliner's wire and plastic brim wire...
 
 http://www.hatsupply.com/wire.htm
 

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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[annbwass]

Evidently California Millinery Supply is under new management (I seem to 
remember a company with that name years ago, but this site says they are new.) 
Their website is minimal at this point, so I didn't see information about a 
minimum order. They encourage you to fax, call, or email them.
 
They list wire in several gauges, both black and white, and both 60 yd and 3 yd 
quantities.
 
http://www.californiamillinery.net/
 
Ann Wass
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, May 9, 2014 10:06 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!


Thanks Kay, their  minimum order is $79 or something. . . alas!

On May 9, 2014, at 3:48 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote:

 Tis site has milliner's wire and plastic brim wire...
 
 http://www.hatsupply.com/wire.htm
 

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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[annbwass]

I, too, have had luck with Leko. They do have a minimum order but it isn't as 
high as $76, IIRC.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Aurora Celeste auroracele...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, May 8, 2014 9:04 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!


I've had good luck with Hats by Leko:  http://www.hatsupply.com


On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:

 I’m looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.

 Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada….
 slower and with duty. I’m in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum
 order of $76— their “low” price. Right.

 I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson’s Raiments/ AlterYears but can’t find a
 presence on the web??

 I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends.

 Thanks, List!

 ==Marjorie


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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 1/2 scale design challenge, any period, Fashion Icons through the Ages

[annbwass]

It does sound like the prize is glory--to be included in the trunk show. Also, 
it doesn't say if, after shipping your outfit and mannequin to the contest, you 
get it back. For $99, I hope you get it back.

BTW--many years ago, when I was an undergrad, our clothing dept. had a 
collection of figures that I believe were idealized half scale. I made 5 
outfits showcasing 5 different silhouettes of the 19th century as my history of 
costume project. 

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: RC Sharp r.c.sh...@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Apr 30, 2014 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 1/2 scale design challenge, any period, Fashion 
Icons through the Ages


The point is to make the garment(s) fit right on the half-scale mannequin.  
They 

don't care about it actually fitting a human.  (Please be aware that the 
_provided_mannequin_ which entrants are _required_ to use is of 
_modern_idealised_ 
proportions.)

Actually (and I'm sorry if this sounds cynical), the point is to sell the 
concept of 
using a half-scale mannequin to help visualize a design and to sell the 
lessons 
that go with the provided mannequin.

As for the thought that historically-oriented seamstresses, tailors, etc., 
might 
have 
an edge because of the announced theme of Fashion Icons thru the Ages, please 
read 
their definition - Fashion icons can be defined as someone known for wearing 
fashion, designing fashion or having a strong influence on fashion.  Sounds 
like the 
mid-1800s and the rise of the fashion houses at the _earliest_.  (I wonder if 
they 
realise how many of us there are and what a span of history we cover!  g)

btw - Entrants are responsible for the shipping costs to get their entry (which 
includes the mannequin to display it on) shipped to the event site in Navi, 
Michigan, 
prior to the actual event for pre-judging and for any return shipping.

Oh, and the prize - can't find any listed ...

My take-away from this?  They want me to spend $99 for a mannequin I can't use 
(I am 
s not modern idealised proportions) for lessons I don't need (I know the 
techniques already) for something I normally do in my head during design phase. 
 
And 
even if I entered and (gasp) won, what would I win?  Um, glory?  I can win 
better 
'glory' just making something I _can_ wear and being seen in it.  Hmmm, I think 
I'll 
spend my money elsewhere.

YMMV though, so hit the website and decide for yourself ...

-RC-

** Whatever you do in life, let it be what you enjoy.  Life's too short to 
do 
otherwise. **
(Yeah, yeah ... jobs and housework exist but everything else should 
be 
fun!)


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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 1/2 scale design challenge, any period, Fashion Icons through the Ages

[annbwass]

Finished reading the rules--contestants have to make their own arrangements for 
return. I guess you could send along a postage paid box. There must be some 
real prizes, as the rules mention substitutions of equal value (although I 
know, cynically, that nothing equals nothing.) 

All that said, if someone doesn't know how to drape, it would be an opportunity 
to learn. I think it would be one of the harder things to try to teach oneself, 
without the benefit of seeing someone else do it. (But I know your mileage may 
vary.)

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: RC Sharp r.c.sh...@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Apr 30, 2014 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 1/2 scale design challenge, any period, Fashion 
Icons through the Ages


The point is to make the garment(s) fit right on the half-scale mannequin.  
They 

don't care about it actually fitting a human.  (Please be aware that the 
_provided_mannequin_ which entrants are _required_ to use is of 
_modern_idealised_ 
proportions.)

Actually (and I'm sorry if this sounds cynical), the point is to sell the 
concept of 
using a half-scale mannequin to help visualize a design and to sell the 
lessons 
that go with the provided mannequin.

As for the thought that historically-oriented seamstresses, tailors, etc., 
might 
have 
an edge because of the announced theme of Fashion Icons thru the Ages, please 
read 
their definition - Fashion icons can be defined as someone known for wearing 
fashion, designing fashion or having a strong influence on fashion.  Sounds 
like the 
mid-1800s and the rise of the fashion houses at the _earliest_.  (I wonder if 
they 
realise how many of us there are and what a span of history we cover!  g)

btw - Entrants are responsible for the shipping costs to get their entry (which 
includes the mannequin to display it on) shipped to the event site in Navi, 
Michigan, 
prior to the actual event for pre-judging and for any return shipping.

Oh, and the prize - can't find any listed ...

My take-away from this?  They want me to spend $99 for a mannequin I can't use 
(I am 
s not modern idealised proportions) for lessons I don't need (I know the 
techniques already) for something I normally do in my head during design phase. 
 
And 
even if I entered and (gasp) won, what would I win?  Um, glory?  I can win 
better 
'glory' just making something I _can_ wear and being seen in it.  Hmmm, I think 
I'll 
spend my money elsewhere.

YMMV though, so hit the website and decide for yourself ...

-RC-

** Whatever you do in life, let it be what you enjoy.  Life's too short to 
do 
otherwise. **
(Yeah, yeah ... jobs and housework exist but everything else should 
be 
fun!)


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Re: [h-cost] Ribbon end treatment, was Re: fiddly question

[annbwass]

Thanks, Carol--swallowtail is a good idea, with discreet fray preventative.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Apr 29, 2014 9:42 am
Subject: [h-cost] Ribbon end treatment, was Re:  fiddly question



I remember someone doing a survey of images, just not sure if it was 18thC or 
Regency. I remember the conclusion being the swallowtail cut — a V-shaped cut. 
That way the cuts are 45 degrees and you have two points on the outside edges. 
If it frays, then clean up the cuts and add fray check, as Ann suggested.

-Carol


 I'm making a couple of Regency bonnets, with satin ribbons as ties. How do 
 you 
finish off the end of the ribbon? Hem it? Cut it, and if so, how? Such a minor 
detail, but I'm stumped.
 Thanks,
 Julie


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Re: [h-cost] fiddly question

[annbwass]

I was going to point that out--only synthetics will melt.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Carmen Beaudry moreplen...@earthlink.net
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tue, Apr 29, 2014 1:22 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fiddly question


That won't work on silk, it just burns.

Carmen

On 4/29/2014 6:57 AM, Becky Rautine wrote:
 I burn the edges of 45degree cuts. Not burn to the point of BURNT showing. 
Just melted. I use a candle with smokeless wick, hold the ribbon above the 
flame 
and approach the flame until it melts but not too close. Try some test before 
you work on project itself.

 --- Original Message ---

 From: MargaretDecker m.p.dec...@att.net
 Sent: April 29, 2014 7:58 AM
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] fiddly question

 If it is less than 1/2 inch wide, cut it at a 45 degree angle, otherwise a
 small rolled hem. Margaret

 -Original Message-
 From: humbugfo...@att.net
 Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 9:29 PM
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] fiddly question

 I'm making a couple of Regency bonnets, with satin ribbons as ties.
 How do you finish off the end of the ribbon? Hem it? Cut it, and if so,
 how? Such a minor detail, but I'm stumped.
 Thanks,
 Julie
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Re: [h-cost] dressed fashion plates

[annbwass]

There are some in the family of Jane Austen--done by a niece, I think. One is 
pictured in the book, Jane Austen's Town and Country Style, by Susan Watkins. 
This one has the dress area cut out and the fabric put behind it.

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tue, Mar 4, 2014 10:44 am
Subject: [h-cost] dressed fashion plates


I got an interesting inquiry from a lady wanting to know about dressed
fashion plates (Godey's plates or the like from the 19th century dressed
in real fabrics, following the lines of the dresses pictured). Does anyone
here know how early this was done? The earliest I am familiar with is the
mid 20th century as a ladies home craft. I had a kids craft book in the
1970s with a dressed print project in it.

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern

[annbwass]

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Feb 13, 2014 7:47 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern


I've made patterns out of paper towels (don't enlarge the patterns, just
use them the size they are) and make a few of each piece. Then try to put
the hat together to look the way the picture does. Paper towels are softer
and more malable than regular paper and will move more like fabric than
copy paper. Just play with it until it works.
LynnD


On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 4:32 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ahahaahaa...yes, translation is everything, isn't it?! Come to think of it,
 decorative doo-dads that are parsley shaped may look rather smashing! ;)

 I'm still confused on where to start though. How many of each to cut,
 what's on the fold, etc. I'm assuming the solid lines are cutting lines and
 the dotted are ribbon guide lines but if I don't have the pieces in the
 right shape to start, no amount of A to A and B to B will result in
 anything resembling a hat.


 On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 3:07 PM, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  Yes, think of translating it to 'garnish'. It's the parsley on the hat??
  LynnD
 
 
  On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 3:04 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   Wonderful!! I had a feeling gasket was wrong...LOL! Thank you sooo
  much!
  
  
   On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 1:41 AM, Kate Bunting katembunt...@gmail.com
   wrote:
  
Sybella,
A few corrections to the translation:
It definitely calls for grosgrain ribbon as the alternative to
 velvet.
Garniture here means the trimming on the hat. (It may mean a gasket
  in
another context!)
Pan may refer to the two hanging ends of ribbon.
Pince seems to mean a dart, if I interpret my dictionary correctly.
Batissez-la - literally build it - i.e. stitch it?
Du sens oppose a la premiere = in the opposite direction to the
   first.
Surely you are meant to bring points E and E' together?
   
Hope this helps,
Kate Bunting
Retired librarian  17th century reenactor
   
Police Bonnet

 It's a very wanted model now.
 The one we are proposing you, is particularly successful.
 Take 1m60 of velvet ribbon summer n?22, or if you don't have that,
 a large grain (grosgrain?) ribbon.
 Take 0m80 ribbon for the gasket plus 0m20 for the pan (?): 0m60
  remains
for
 the cap.
 The pattern is drawn up for a 0m55 head entry:

 I. The Headband cap. II. The gasket.

 Place the pattern over the ribbon, pass threads over
 as indicated in the shematic with the dotted line: mark the
 reference
 points.
 The cap: Shape the clip (the pliers? the clamp?)by bringing
 together
  D
   to
 D',
 b?tissez-l?. Close the headband to your head entry.

 Gasket: From F, form a point (tip) by bringing the reference
 points A
   A'
 together.
 Pin it. Form a shell (case? hull? body?, cover?) by bringing the 2
 B
   and
 B'from the end of the ribbon
 to the 2 B and B'on the edge of the ribbon.
 Shape and pin a second shell (...?) opposite to the first direction
  by
 bringing
 C together witk C' and C' to E'.

 Place the gasket on to the headband cap.
 Secure point E'(en regard de E du bandeau de calotte-- this can
 mean
 opposite E on the headband cap or facing E on the headband
 cap. I
have
 no idea which one is meant here..)
 Align the meeting points and get the back cover to point F, F'.
 Put G and G' together, after which you do te same with I and I',
 and
   then
H
 and H'.
 The seam of the headband cap stops under the front (cover, hull?
   shell?)

 Under point F', slide a piece of ribbon of 0m20, diagonally cut on
  each
side
 Sew the cap by a few points hidden in the folds.
 (a cap with three ribs, in taffetas, serves as headdress)

 Lysiane
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Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern

[annbwass]

Great idea! I was going to suggest starting with paper. Paper towels sound like 
a great alternative! Cheap and you can just keep going until you get it right.

Ann Wass

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Feb 13, 2014 7:47 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern


I've made patterns out of paper towels (don't enlarge the patterns, just
use them the size they are) and make a few of each piece. Then try to put
the hat together to look the way the picture does. Paper towels are softer
and more malable than regular paper and will move more like fabric than
copy paper. Just play with it until it works.
LynnD


On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 4:32 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ahahaahaa...yes, translation is everything, isn't it?! Come to think of it,
 decorative doo-dads that are parsley shaped may look rather smashing! ;)

 I'm still confused on where to start though. How many of each to cut,
 what's on the fold, etc. I'm assuming the solid lines are cutting lines and
 the dotted are ribbon guide lines but if I don't have the pieces in the
 right shape to start, no amount of A to A and B to B will result in
 anything resembling a hat.


 On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 3:07 PM, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  Yes, think of translating it to 'garnish'. It's the parsley on the hat??
  LynnD
 
 
  On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 3:04 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   Wonderful!! I had a feeling gasket was wrong...LOL! Thank you sooo
  much!
  
  
   On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 1:41 AM, Kate Bunting katembunt...@gmail.com
   wrote:
  
Sybella,
A few corrections to the translation:
It definitely calls for grosgrain ribbon as the alternative to
 velvet.
Garniture here means the trimming on the hat. (It may mean a gasket
  in
another context!)
Pan may refer to the two hanging ends of ribbon.
Pince seems to mean a dart, if I interpret my dictionary correctly.
Batissez-la - literally build it - i.e. stitch it?
Du sens oppose a la premiere = in the opposite direction to the
   first.
Surely you are meant to bring points E and E' together?
   
Hope this helps,
Kate Bunting
Retired librarian  17th century reenactor
   
Police Bonnet

 It's a very wanted model now.
 The one we are proposing you, is particularly successful.
 Take 1m60 of velvet ribbon summer n?22, or if you don't have that,
 a large grain (grosgrain?) ribbon.
 Take 0m80 ribbon for the gasket plus 0m20 for the pan (?): 0m60
  remains
for
 the cap.
 The pattern is drawn up for a 0m55 head entry:

 I. The Headband cap. II. The gasket.

 Place the pattern over the ribbon, pass threads over
 as indicated in the shematic with the dotted line: mark the
 reference
 points.
 The cap: Shape the clip (the pliers? the clamp?)by bringing
 together
  D
   to
 D',
 b?tissez-l?. Close the headband to your head entry.

 Gasket: From F, form a point (tip) by bringing the reference
 points A
   A'
 together.
 Pin it. Form a shell (case? hull? body?, cover?) by bringing the 2
 B
   and
 B'from the end of the ribbon
 to the 2 B and B'on the edge of the ribbon.
 Shape and pin a second shell (...?) opposite to the first direction
  by
 bringing
 C together witk C' and C' to E'.

 Place the gasket on to the headband cap.
 Secure point E'(en regard de E du bandeau de calotte-- this can
 mean
 opposite E on the headband cap or facing E on the headband
 cap. I
have
 no idea which one is meant here..)
 Align the meeting points and get the back cover to point F, F'.
 Put G and G' together, after which you do te same with I and I',
 and
   then
H
 and H'.
 The seam of the headband cap stops under the front (cover, hull?
   shell?)

 Under point F', slide a piece of ribbon of 0m20, diagonally cut on
  each
side
 Sew the cap by a few points hidden in the folds.
 (a cap with three ribs, in taffetas, serves as headdress)

 Lysiane
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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[annbwass]

 


 I think she said it is called razorback.

 That is racer back--This was, I believe, designed for serious competition 
swimsuits. Would stay in place and the swimmer wouldn't have to worry about it 
coming off the shoulders.

Ann Wass

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Feb 4, 2014 4:38 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?


I have sabout 20 camis with and without bras built into them.  The trend has
been for the past 5+ years is to layer several camis over a bra with colored
straps exposed.  This created a kinda rainbow of multiple straps.   This
fashion evolved into another fashion last summer of a cami with a an
oversized A-shape or swing top shape with a racer's swimsuit back shape.  My
daughter came in with one of these last night and my husband was trying to
convince her that it was a wife-beater top.  I have forgotten what she
called it.   For some reason I think she said it is called razorback.
Underneath it the ladies/girls are wear a swimsuit top, cami, or strapless
elastic band top. 

My daughter is 22 now.  I remember when the cami trend started and she was
in high school.  We have several arguments in the beginning that it was
underwear back then.  Then she started layering them.  She started
lifeguarding and wearing a lot less to work, so I lost the battle.  

I do have to say when you are purchasing camis to make sure to look at the
drawings on the package.  So many of them state there is a bra built into
them...actually it should be worded as a shelf and not bra.  A shelf is
a lining over the bust area with elastic under the bust.  It has no padding
and generally made of the same fabric as the outer portion.  You can put bra
pads in this area if you want, but don't could on them staying in place. 

I have a hard time medically wearing a bra and searched high and low for the
camis with a built in cups...without the back strap of a bra.  You can find
lots with the back straps in lingerie sections and pay a lot more for them.
Kmart is the best place to purchase the ones with just cups and no shelf.
They have been carrying them for 4+ years and they are generally hanging.  I
do suggest to anyone purchasing camis to get ones with adjustable straps.
Most camis are form fitting and if you get one with cups or a shelf, you
don't want to bothered with straps bugging you or the shelf elastic riding
up all day.  If you have the opportunity to try it on before purchasing, do
so.  Each manufacturers sizing is different and a lot of the cami textiles
have spandex or Lyrca in it.  Don't be surprised if you generally wear a
medium and need to go up to a large or extra large.  Cami sizing is so
weird.

Penny Ladnier, Owner
The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com 
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery  





 

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[h-cost] New Book!

[annbwass]

I am pleased to announce that Susan Greene's book, Wearable Prints, 
1760-1860, is finally out! It is published by Kent University Press and is 
available discounted on Amazon. For those of you who don't know Susan, she has 
been working on this project for years, and I am glad to see it finally come to 
fruition.

Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[AnnBWass]

I actually have one. Bought a decent dress at a thrift store for summer  
wear, but it is just a little low in front, so I bought one of the knit 
garments  with spaghetti straps. It has a shelf bra, too--remember those from 
the 
'70s?  And yes, my much younger co-workers call it a cami. BTW, it is also 
VERY long,  so one could wear it with the extremely low-slung pants that 
still seem to be in  vogue. That is one style that could go away, IMHO. Hard 
for 
us mature women to  find pants that sit decently at the waist.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
In a message dated 1/6/2014 2:06:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfsh...@gmail.com writes:

LOL.  This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters, 
ages 18  and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a 
camisole  and it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a 
layer, but a  layer that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in 
hot weather, it  is worn alone.

Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with  cut-on shoulders.


On 1/5/14, 9:28 PM, Sybella wrote:
 Hm. In  my opinion, a camisole (or cami) is strictly an undergarment
  regardless of modern vernacular. LOL!

 Tank tops can be  delicate in style...I would say what the OP is 
describing
 would be  using the correct name if she called it a tank top. One could 
say
  tank top with spaghetti straps, maybe.

 Did you see the wiki  page on this? I just looked it up. Whoever wrote it
 also mentions  camisole. There are pictures at the bottom of the page,
 with all the  variations that fall under tank tops.

  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt




  On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Sharon Zakhour sfsh...@gmail.com  
wrote:

 cami or  camisole



 On 1/5/14, 8:27 PM,  Marjorie Wilser wrote:

 Hi  folks,

 I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself,  so I'm waaay out of the loop 
about
 a popular item of modern  summer clothing for women.

 What IS the little  knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think 
of
 a  tank as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped 
 ones
 I think of as a chemise, but that isn't the name I'm  looking for 
here.

 So what's the modern name  for it, please? :)

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Re: [h-cost] Loot-n-Booty Report, 2013

[AnnBWass]

I got a shawl--modernish, but I think it will pass for Regency. My DD  gave 
me a jeweled peacock pin in shades of blue and green and my husband a bow  
tie (that is all he wears these days) in colors to match.
 
 Most of my clothing/textile gifts are on the giving side: Made my  3-1/2 
year old granddaughter a matching skirt and tote bag in a Minnie Mouse  
print. She couldn't understand the grown-ups' mirth when she opened the package 
 
and announced, it's a Minnie skirt. The two older grands will get swing 
dance  skirts, to be made in January. They are going to a father-daughter 
dance in  February. After much looking for something with polka dots, I ended 
up 
with a  black ground with hot pink, gray, and white dots and silver 
sprinkles. One girl  got a hot pink cardigan and the other a gray one. (Also 
clothing related--I had  to order the sweaters from Lands End. Fortunately, I 
ordered in plenty of time  for delivery. Everything in the stores seemed to 
have 
rather hideous designs of  one kind or another--no nice solid colors.)
 
You all enjoy your presents, y'hear? And may the new year bring lots of  
sewing and dress up time.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
In a message dated 12/27/2013 12:03:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
chim...@ravensgard.org writes:

Nobody  has started this thread yet? Amazing, 8-)

Well... Medieval Clothing and  Textiles #9, thanks to a coupon that brought 
the price down to what the DH  could stand! 
Dress Accessories, 1150-1450  (finally)
Wearing the Cloak, Dressing the Soldier in Roman  Times (this goes with 
post-Roman Arthuriana)

and, OT, a Jayne  cap!  as per Firefly, see at  
http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/f108/   of course, I don't have the  
accompanying firepower to REALLY 
complete the look, but Himself was satisfied  that it was a COMPLETE 
surprise, 8-)  I had even opened the delivery pkg  by mistake and not really 
recognized it, and had completely forgotten making  whatever joke about it when 
we 
originally saw it!  100% acrylic and it is  actually warm in the drafty 
house!

and a cookery book, and a history  book, and a couple of comic-strip/manga 
collections, and a couple of  children's books from my eternal-list... 
Himself was wailing about how I have  to provide him with MORE NON-book ideas! 
So 
I also have a couple of jigsaw  puzzles, 8-); now I just have to find time 
to DO them! And get past bridling  when teh boyz push in to HELP me go 
FASTER!

Hope you all got stuff you  wanted/ liked/ were surprised by/ had other 
positive reactions to,  8-)

Hoppy Gnu  Year!
chimene
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Re: [h-cost] Loot-n-Booty Report, 2013

[AnnBWass]

In a message dated 12/27/2013 12:03:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
f...@lavoltapress.com writes:

Three  identical crewel-embroidered shawls from Heritage Trading to make 
a  Regency dress
Let us know how it turns out! I bought two shawls in Spain almost 10  years 
ago and started a Regency overdress, which still isn't done. One of my  
goals this year is to finish it. 
 
Ann Wass

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Re: [h-cost] about bath towels...

[AnnBWass]

I used to like Restoration Hardware's towels, but I haven't bought any in a 
 while so don't know if the quality is still what it was 10 years ago.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
In a message dated 9/14/2013 4:37:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
chim...@ravensgard.org writes:

Thanks  all for the responses about those velvet terms; much  appreciated.

NOW...  we need to replace some bath towels. BUT!  where do YOU buy decent 
bath towels these days? 

JCPenney used to be  our go-to for almost all bed  bath linens, but not so 
much these days.  They appear to be suffering the breakdown in quality that 
so many textiles  are. (You can't get PermaPrest bed sheets anymore, sigh, 
although I still have  a few inherited from my mother, and my own student 
housekeeping. I suppose  that one is OK, apparently the permaprest process was 
an environmental horror  that even in the olden days of 30+ years ago 
became unsupportable.)

But  bath towels, now! I have remnants of a couple of bath sheets that I 
made into  a house-robe for Mr. Shoulders, possibly 30 years ago. This 100% 
cotton fabric  is STILL full-surfaced and soft as satin! It's cut into ca. 12 
squares and  the sides do not ravel or produce bits in the wash. JCP is 
certainly not  carrying this quality of towelling these days, or for the past 
decade at  least. Most of the older towels we have (from various sources) 
seem to last  about 3 years before they go so thin that they dry like 
sandpaper, OR start to  have the seamed selvages rip out, OR start to tear away 
at 
the flat-weave  sections...

So, please! Where do YOU-all buy or order on-line, what  brand(s), of bath 
towels that STAY full and soft and in one piece, these  days?

Thanks much!
chimene et al  



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Re: [h-cost] names for velvets...

[AnnBWass]

I would not want to buy any velvet sight unseen. Only buy from a place that 
 will send you swatches. Some velvets are so slinky they would drive me 
crazy to  work with them, while some, even clothing weight, have a bit more 
body.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
In a message dated 9/13/2013 4:58:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
chim...@ravensgard.org writes:

my  steam-punker has been attracted recently by victorian velvet outfits 
from the  OMG that dress site, so he's been looking on-line at velvets.

we have  hit a term we can't find a real definition for. does anyone know 
what is meant  by doux cotton velvet. doux literally means sweet. some 
of the  descriptions say 100% cotton, which indicates warp, weft and PILE 
all of  cotton.

we have also run across descriptions of linen velvet, and  mohair velvet!

both the cotton and linen velvet appear to run around  $17/yard; 54-56 
width -- oh, the linen is on 66% sale, usually more like  $50/yd! 

flanders velvet, housefabric.com, 63% cotton, currently on  sale $10/54 
yd...

well, enough dithering, he can pull up examples  faster than I can 
transcribe them, 8-)

so... doux cotton velvet, linen  velvet, flanders velvet... any definitions?

thx  much
chimene
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Re: [h-cost] names for velvets...

[AnnBWass]

 
In a message dated 9/13/2013 4:58:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
chim...@ravensgard.org writes:

my  steam-punker has been attracted recently by victorian velvet outfits 
from the  OMG that dress site, so he's been looking on-line at velvets.

we have  hit a term we can't find a real definition for. does anyone know 
what is meant  by doux cotton velvet. doux literally means sweet. some 
of the  descriptions say 100% cotton, which indicates warp, weft and PILE 
all of  cotton.

we have also run across descriptions of linen velvet, and  mohair velvet!

both the cotton and linen velvet appear to run around  $17/yard; 54-56 
width -- oh, the linen is on 66% sale, usually more like  $50/yd! 

flanders velvet, housefabric.com, 63% cotton, currently on  sale $10/54 
yd...

well, enough dithering, he can pull up examples  faster than I can 
transcribe them, 8-)

so... doux cotton velvet, linen  velvet, flanders velvet... any definitions?

thx  much
chimene
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Re: [h-cost] martha pullen costume books

[annbwass]

They are as good as the people she had compiling them--which was different for 
each museum. If the price is right, they are probably worthwhile enough.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2013 12:53 pm
Subject: [h-cost] martha pullen costume books


Has anyone seen these books (I found them on Hamiltonbook.com):

Martha Pullen's Favorite Places Series

They cover several Museums costume collections such as Kent State and the V
 A

I am wondering if they are worth buying.

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[annbwass]

She should be wearing a red Regency-era ballgown that I need to finish by the 
end of the month--it is in pieces, and I need to finish the bodice and try the 
skirt for length. It's a new pattern, so I'm not sure how much hem I will have. 
 And, not on my dummy, but also in progress, a turban to match that gown. This 
is also a sample for the turban workshop I'll be giving at the Gadsby's Tavern 
costume symposium in Alexandria, VA, on Sept. 27.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com
To: H-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2013 1:01 pm
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?


It's been forever since I asked my seasonal question, so here it is:
It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties,
winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair,
theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You
might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's
your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in
your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the
sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop.
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[AnnBWass]

In a message dated 9/10/2013 7:37:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
emchantm...@gmail.com writes:

is the  ballgown for the JASNA AGM at the end of this  
month? 
No, not going to make it this year. Maybe 2015, in Louisville, and FOR SURE 
 DC in 2016. I'll be going to the Gadsby's Tavern Road to the Regency 
ball on  Sept. 28. Hope to have it done then.
 
Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Stumped

[annbwass]

 Does anyone have an actual documented example?

No picture of a real example, but Rosalie Stier Calvert of Maryland did write 
to her sister in Antwerp that she was sending her a pair of lace sleeves in 
1807. And there is a French fashion plate from about the same time that shows 
separate sleeves. However, those sleeves are white with a white dress.


Do you have enough of the fabric left to eke out a self separate undersleeve 
that can be pinned or basted in? It doesn't take much, and they can be pieced.



Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Hope Greenberg h...@uvm.edu
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tue, Jul 23, 2013 10:27 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Stumped


Here's a request:

The dilemma: I making a garden variety early 19th century bib/apron 
dress of a cotton print. Of course, I have too little fabric so instead 
of a long sleeve I decided to do a short sleeve with a detachable 
undersleeve in white cotton voile. I went flipping through my collection 
of hundreds of images looking for an example. (Note, this is an 1812 or 
thereabouts gown, not the turn of the century type where a colored 
bodice and white sleeve is common, nor the Princess Charlotte russian 
dress that looks like our American jumper.) Lo and behold I cannot find 
an image of this combination. This, the staple of all JA films! Lots of 
short sleeves with long gloves, lots of short sleeves over undersleeves 
of the same fabric. Does anyone have an actual documented example?

Thanks!

- Hope
hope.greenb...@uvm.edu
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Re: [h-cost] The White Queen

[annbwass]

With so much emphasis on getting the clothing right, why not  
the hair/hat styles!!

Not sure of the excuse for the hats. But Edward Maeder, in his book Hollywood 
and History, makes the point that hairstyles and makeup are more likely to be 
contemporary in historical movies than are the costumes themselves.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Jul 24, 2013 11:05 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The White Queen


Kate,

It's funny. . . you could say the same thing about modern productions  
of Victorian and Georgian fashions. Bareheaded women (and gloveless,  
too! the horror!) running around outside, neither properly coifed nor  
hatted. With so much emphasis on getting the clothing right, why not  
the hair/hat styles!!

 == Marjorie Wilser (hoping very much that we get The White Queen  
over here. . . someday)

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Jul 24, 2013, at 7:55 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:

 As the list seems very quiet at the moment, I thought I'd ask what UK
 members who know about the Middle Ages think of the costumes in The  
 White
 Queen? (It's a series based on 3 of Philippa Gregory's novels  
 currently
 running on the BBC.)

 I know little about mediaeval costume, but my impression is that  
 they have
 fallen into the same trap as the designers for The Tudors - the  
 women
 show too much hair and not enough linen. Only a few older women wear
 headdresses. I assume this is supposed to make the leading ladies more
 attractive to modern eyes.

 Kate Bunting
 Retired librarian  17th century reenactor.
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Re: [h-cost] Corded petticoat conundrum

[annbwass]

We discovered one of these in our collection several years ago. I learned that 
Saundra Ros Altman wrote an article on these, Stick-Out Petticoats. It was in 
MIMCC Magazine, 1994, Vol. xv, no. 2. She did a search of patents, among 
other things.


Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Jun 17, 2013 1:35 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corded petticoat conundrum


Curious minds want to know:  Is the cording in the warp or in the weft?

That is an excellent question.  As I was writing the description, it occurred 
to 
me that I don't remember.  I will pull it out next time I'm there!
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Re: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?

[annbwass]

I have had good luck soaking all night in Biz.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2013 1:29 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?


For fruit stains, like that of the raspberry, I find spray-and wash  
the best thing. It actually fades the stain before it hits the washing  
machine. Berry stains will indeed turn a nasty shade of gray if washed  
in ordinary soap without pre-treatment.

Don't know about your random stains. Might they have been in the cloth  
as produced?

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:27 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

 We're in the process of sorting, washing-musty-out, and re-packing  
 the fabric stash and have discovered about 5 pieces of mostly-white,  
 mostly-linen that has a FEW, random pink and/or blue-y/black-y  
 spots. We've only really noticed this tonite. Doesn't seem to be  
 occuring on the white cottons (I think).

 I'm planning to pre-treat with Clorox2, and then cold-launder with  
 Clorox2. Have just had real good luck with that with a cotton bra  
 that got a raspberry down it all day 8-) which stain started  
 pinkish, and then turned sort of blackberry dark blue/black as I  
 tried to wash it out.

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Re: [h-cost] Clothing order sent to London from Virginia in 1759

[annbwass]

Not for nothing did George Washington marry the richest widow in Virginia!


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker d...@mantua-maker.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2013 3:06 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothing order sent to London from Virginia in 1759


Wow, that's fascinating! She did know exactly what she wanted. 20 pounds 
was an enormous price at the time, something like $320, I think, before 
inflation.

-- 
Happy sewing,
Deb Salisbury
The Mantua-Maker
Quality Historical Sewing Patterns
www.mantua-maker.com

Hello, gang.

During my nightly reading I discovered this snippet about a clothing
order sent to London, placed by a well-to-do Virginia planter's wife in
1759:

?Hose and shoes ? these of the smallest fives ? a black mask, perfume,
six pairs of kid gloves and  six of mittens, and a multitude of small
articles.?

?Her particular want was of a negligee gown and coat of salmon-colored
tabby with satin flowers and a cap, handkerchief, tucker and ruffles to
match or blend.  These were to be of Brussels or point lace at the stiff
price of 20 Pounds Sterling.?

Interesting, eh?

Oh, by the way, the well-to-do Virginia planter's wife was Martha
Washington.
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Re: [h-cost] Costumers'/Seamstresses' STASH BUSTING Rummage Sale, Concord, Northern California, June 2

[annbwass]

I'm assuming this is in California?


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
To: GBACGcostumers gbacgcostum...@yahoogroups.com; siliconweb 
silicon...@yahoogroups.com; Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com; 
Historic Needlework h-needlew...@ansteorra.org; cgwcostumers 
cgwcostum...@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, May 21, 2013 1:03 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Costumers'/Seamstresses' STASH BUSTING Rummage Sale, Concord, 
Northern California, June 2


Have you been looking for that perfect trim to go on your latest Gatsby
dress? Or a length of fabric to make that dress? How about a purse, parasol
or pair of trousers for Dickens Fair? Maybe something you've been wishing
for but couldn't find the perfect color/design/fit? Come shop at the
semi-occasional Costumers' stash-busting sale on Sunday, June 2nd. Over a
dozen vendors are clearing out their closets and YOU could be the lucky
recipient of some pretty nice stuff for bargain prices. Particulars are:

When: Sunday, June 2nd, 11 - 4

Where: Cue Live Productions Theatre in old downtown Concord, 1835 Colfax
Street between Willow Pass Road and Concord Blvd. Lots of street parking
available.

Mass transit: A couple of blocks from the Concord BART station

Admission: $5.00 Proceeds benefit the Butterfield 8 Theatre, our lovely
hosts at Cue Live.

There is no ATM nearby. Please bring cash.

Can't attend because you will be at Valhalla Renaissance Faire? Heck, send
your friends. They know y pretty darn well and can spot a bargain that
you'll love.

A concession stand will be on site for snacks and drinks, all proceeds go
to Butterfield 8. Please don't bring outside food into the building.

PLEASE FEEL FREE TO REPOST THIS MESSAGE EVERYWHERE!
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[h-cost] Upcoming Lecture

[annbwass]

For those in the Washington, DC, area:


The Library of Congress Humanities  Soical Sciences Division presents:
Thursday, April 18, at noon
Women's Clothing During the Civil War Era: Costumes, Foundations,  
Accessories from the collections of Mary Doering. 
Ms. Doering has wonderful things in her collection--this should be a great 
event.


Library of Congress, 6th Floor, Madison Building, Dining Room A


For more information contact Kathy Woodrell at 202-707-0945


Please share with any ACW or Victorian costume fans you know.


Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] I'm Back for a while

[annbwass]

Good to have you back, Penny!


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: penny pe...@costumegallery.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Apr 4, 2013 3:35 am
Subject: [h-cost] I'm Back for a while


Since late November, I have been trying to get h-costume to acknowledge my
gmail email account replies.  I gave up and put h-costume back on my laptop
email.  I am so happy to be back. I can only be on my laptop one or two days
a week because I finally did my back in with four slipped disks in my low
back and another one in my neck.  Hopefully I will find out in two April 17
if or when I will have surgery.   I am so tired of being in bed most of the
time but am very grateful that I can walk and drive again. 

 

I have been reading your emails on my phone until last week when you all
swamped my phone's email and I was determined to get my h-costume replies to
work.  I am so happy to see the list active again.  I love Facebook but the
brief comments are not enough for me.  I love h-costume's detailed messages
and learning from your different interests in costuming.

 

Penny Ladnier, owner

The Costume Gallery Websites

 http://www.costumegallery.com/ www.costumegallery.com

15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history

FaceBook:  http://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery
http://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery 

 

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Re: [h-cost] Children's fashions

[annbwass]

About 20 years ago, when I was back on a college campus regularly, it appeared 
to me that the parents were borrowing from their children again. The moms and 
dads who brought their kids for campus tours were wearing the baggy shorts, 
footwear, Tshirts, and headgear of their children.


But I see what you mean about kids' wearing grown up styles. We were in Spain 
just before First Communion time. They still sell traditional sailor suits for 
boys, but also man-style suits, except that they are decorated with braid and 
tassels--they looked like admirals, not common sailors!



Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.uk
To: H-costume list h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Apr 3, 2013 4:52 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Children's fashions


Maggie wrote:
It also strikes me that we are moving back to kids wearing miniature adult 
styles.

I was thinking the same thing myself recently. I'm old enough to remember young 
boys routinely wearing short trousers (i.e. knee-length suit trousers, as 
distinct from casual shorts).
Now that (a) most clothes are easily washable, and (b) adults are wearing 
casual 
styles more of the time, I don't think there's an obvious difference between 
adult and children's styles.

Kate Bunting
Librarian  17th century reenactor
Derby, UK


_
The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the 
right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in 
error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any 
concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk.
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Re: [h-cost] Bernina Buttonholes

[annbwass]

While they make great buttonholes there just doesn't seem
to be a big enough gap between the 2 bars.  I consistently manage to cut a
thread when I open them.


You are right--that can be a problem. I always use the narrower of the 2 
options.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Julie jtknit...@gmail.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Cc: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Wed, Apr 3, 2013 2:33 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Bernina Buttonholes


I have Berninas.  While they make great buttonholes there just doesn't seem
to be a big enough gap between the 2 bars.  I consistently manage to cut a
thread when I open them.

Any suggestions?
Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Multiple machines

[annbwass]

 My new Bernina 1008 makes 
cruddy buttonholes, 

I'm surprised your Bernina makes cruddy buttonholes. I wonder if they've 
changed how it works. One reason I wanted a Bernina was their reputation for 
good buttonholes. They were at that time the only machine that did the zigzag 
of both sides forward, instead of going down one side and up the other--that is 
accomplished by going up the other side with a straight stitch and then coming 
down with a zigzag. Mine also has a optical buttonholer so, once I make one, 
all the others match exactly.  But that feature, of course, was possible with 
the buttonhole attachment. My old Kenmore has a buttonhole attachment, but it 
isn't the kind with the drop-in cams, so I'm limited to 5 sizes. 

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Apr 2, 2013 7:07 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Multiple machines


I still keeping thinking about getting an embroidery-sewing machine, and 
if I did, I would probably leave it set up for embroidery and use my 
Bernina for sewing. However, I have been hesitating for a long time 
because machine embroidery is a whole new craft and I want to make sure 
I am committed enough for the machine to be worth the substantial 
investment.  When I was shopping for a workhorse machine, I didn't 
really investigate buttonholing closely.  My new Bernina 1008 makes 
cruddy buttonholes, which is acceptable because my old Viking 400 makes 
sort-of-OK buttonholes. But I find myself really longing for the great 
buttonholes made by a Greist or Singer attachment on my long-departed 
Sears Kenmore. Somewhere along the line I disposed of its buttonhole 
attachment but plenty of similar vintage ones are available. Are the 
buttonholes on the high-end embroidery machines like the Husqvarna 
Designer Diamond really good, or--an alternative--should I buy a cheap 
vintage Kenmore or some other old machine and a buttonhole attachment?  
I ran into someone who did that; they just use their $15, vintage 
thrift-store machine exclusively for buttonholes.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on making historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com




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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[annbwass]

Yes, indeed. The place where I could go for while-you-wait service on my 
Bernina is gone, and I had to wait about a month to have it fixed. (Have to 
say, though, that is the first time in 12 years it needed really serious 
service, knock on wood.) My backup machine isn't nearly as spiffy as a Viking, 
though.


Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Mar 31, 2013 9:49 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?


I love my Bernina, but the Viking is also pretty good, now that it has 
been restored to like-new condition. For years I thought having two 
machines was unnecessary, but that was when there were more good local 
repair places that could fix a machine in only a few days. I originally 
planned to sell the Viking. But when I discovered the really good repair 
place I finally found was so popular there was a one-month wait, I 
realized I need two machines now.  Even if the Bernina chugs happily 
along for years, having the backup machine makes me feel more secure.

Fran
Books on making historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com


On 3/31/2013 5:32 PM, Kim Baird wrote:
 2 sewing machines are the minimum number a real sewer need. And Bernina is
 cream of the crop!
 Kim



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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[annbwass]

 i keep getting lost on
interest looking for inspiration.

So far, I'm resisting Pinterest. Facebook is enough of a time waster. I would 
probably NEVER get anything done if I got caught up in Pinterest. 
(Occasionally, friends do share pins, but, alas, many pinners don't document 
worth a darn--so we don't know WHERE that purty pitcher is from!)

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 11:06 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?


I am working on two regency corded stays, they're so pretty!  The
ording is going in much more easily than I had feared.  Then I need
o make a Regency balldress for a friend.  i keep getting lost on
interest looking for inspiration.
Katy
On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 4:39 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm woefully under-inspired by my half-completed ragtime ballgown.  So
 under-inspired that I have my nose in the Cosimo di Medici book (Moda
 Italia #2).
 Glad of a change of topic,
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com

 At 11:19 31/03/2013, you wrote:

 Now, on to the historical costuming side and not Fran's over inflated ego,
 what is everyone working on?  Anyone else doing the Historical Fortnightly?

 -Isabella
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-- 
aty Bishop, Vintage Victorian
atybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[annbwass]

-Original Message-
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 11:11 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?


I forgot about the post-apocalypse! (grin)  Seriously, though, I should put
eedles, thread and scissors into my earthquake emergency kit. Oooh, and
afety pins. Thanks for the idea. 
haron C.
-Original Message-
rom: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
ehalf Of lis...@juno.com
ent: Monday, April 01, 2013 4:57 AM
o: h-cost...@indra.com
ubject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
I have an old Husqvarna Viking that we got for free at a church flea market
 few years back--it was covered with paint splashes and was missing the
ords and pedal.  The nice church ladies gave it to us (saying they couldn't
ell it without the cord), and we were able to replace the cords and pedal
or under $30 on Ebay; Roger cleaned it up and serviced it--and I downloaded
he manual online.  (One of the really great things about the internet!).
his machine can sew 5-8 layers of leather or heavy vinyl!  I have it for a
ack up, even though my workhorse machine is a 30-year-old Sears Kenmore.  I
ave a Pfaff 1475--the quilter's machine--that is always set up, AND an
lder Bernina stashed upstairs (In the post-apocalypse, electronic machines
ay not work, so I wanted a plain electric machine that would work with a
enerator!)  Not taking any chances.  My serger is a Bernina though and love
t too.
I've found that, since I sew,  people want to give me oldmachines all the
ime; Grandma dies, and no one wants it!  I also have two pristine Singer
achine from the early 1960's, one is the Style-O-Matic, they both have
he hard cases, and work like champs.  One's at my cabin in WV (You never
now when you have to make a repair on something!)
Im not working on historical things right now EXCEPT for working on
canning and organizing my hundreds of vintage photos and cards.  Flea
arket season started, so Im already collecting more of them.  I have to
ake a baby gift for a shower next weekend--going to make a fleece blanket,
nd a wall hanging with an appliqued giraffe (that's her theme for the
ursery).  And I just got 4 tote bags of quilting fabric from a friend, as
ell as 2 bags from the flea market, so there is quilting in my future, and
abric organizing and storage to be done..  And I have one of my early tries
t 1860's in pearl grey wool blend with black accents that is going to be a
teampunk conversion (one of these days), as well as finishing up a SF
ostume of a goddess.
Yours in cosutmign,LisaA

n Mon, 1 Apr 2013 05:12:05 -0400 (EDT) annbw...@aol.com writes:
 Yes, indeed. The place where I could go for while-you-wait service on 
 my Bernina is gone, and I had to wait about a month to have it fixed. 
 (Have to say, though, that is the first time in 12 years it needed 
 really serious service, knock on wood.) My backup machine isn't nearly 
 as spiffy as a Viking, though.
 
 
 Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[annbwass]

I forgot about the post-apocalypse! 





-Original Message-
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 11:11 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?


I forgot about the post-apocalypse! (grin)  Seriously, though, I should put
eedles, thread and scissors into my earthquake emergency kit. Oooh, and
afety pins. Thanks for the idea. 
haron C.
-Original Message-
rom: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
ehalf Of lis...@juno.com
ent: Monday, April 01, 2013 4:57 AM
o: h-cost...@indra.com
ubject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
I have an old Husqvarna Viking that we got for free at a church flea market
 few years back--it was covered with paint splashes and was missing the
ords and pedal.  The nice church ladies gave it to us (saying they couldn't
ell it without the cord), and we were able to replace the cords and pedal
or under $30 on Ebay; Roger cleaned it up and serviced it--and I downloaded
he manual online.  (One of the really great things about the internet!).
his machine can sew 5-8 layers of leather or heavy vinyl!  I have it for a
ack up, even though my workhorse machine is a 30-year-old Sears Kenmore.  I
ave a Pfaff 1475--the quilter's machine--that is always set up, AND an
lder Bernina stashed upstairs (In the post-apocalypse, electronic machines
ay not work, so I wanted a plain electric machine that would work with a
enerator!)  Not taking any chances.  My serger is a Bernina though and love
t too.
I've found that, since I sew,  people want to give me oldmachines all the
ime; Grandma dies, and no one wants it!  I also have two pristine Singer
achine from the early 1960's, one is the Style-O-Matic, they both have
he hard cases, and work like champs.  One's at my cabin in WV (You never
now when you have to make a repair on something!)
Im not working on historical things right now EXCEPT for working on
canning and organizing my hundreds of vintage photos and cards.  Flea
arket season started, so Im already collecting more of them.  I have to
ake a baby gift for a shower next weekend--going to make a fleece blanket,
nd a wall hanging with an appliqued giraffe (that's her theme for the
ursery).  And I just got 4 tote bags of quilting fabric from a friend, as
ell as 2 bags from the flea market, so there is quilting in my future, and
abric organizing and storage to be done..  And I have one of my early tries
t 1860's in pearl grey wool blend with black accents that is going to be a
teampunk conversion (one of these days), as well as finishing up a SF
ostume of a goddess.
Yours in cosutmign,LisaA

n Mon, 1 Apr 2013 05:12:05 -0400 (EDT) annbw...@aol.com writes:
 Yes, indeed. The place where I could go for while-you-wait service on 
 my Bernina is gone, and I had to wait about a month to have it fixed. 
 (Have to say, though, that is the first time in 12 years it needed 
 really serious service, knock on wood.) My backup machine isn't nearly 
 as spiffy as a Viking, though.
 
 
 Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[annbwass]

Oh, I know they don't HAVE to document it--just wish they would. And some of 
the images I've seen are obscure enough that there is no source, alas!

And the Google image search isn't foolproof. Tried to find a period portrait of 
a guy sitting in an armchair with a big red rolled arm, and got lots of 
pictures of modern faces with a square of red somewhere in the picture, but not 
the portrait I was looking for. Sometimes it works, though.

Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 11:43 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?



Ann Wass said: So far, I'm resisting Pinterest. Facebook is enough of a time 
aster. I would probably NEVER get anything done if I got caught up in 
interest. (Occasionally, friends do share pins, but, alas, many pinners don't 
ocument worth a darn--so we don't know WHERE that purty pitcher is from!)

ctually, they don't need to document it. Pinterest is basically a fancy 
ookmark with pictures. If you click on the pin, it will take you to the 
riginal website where the image was found. For example, if they pin a dress 
rom the Met, clicking on it will take you to the Met page showing the dress. 
he problem comes in when they pin it from a website with no source 
nformation... but then we suffered that even before Pinterest. ;) Of course, 
oogle now has the functionality to find an image if you cut and paste it into 
heir search engine so sometimes the original can be found that way even when 
omeone doesn't put source information.
Teena
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Re: [h-cost] Children's fashions.

[annbwass]

Actually, girls' dresses developed in the last quarter of the late 18th century 
and then, it appears, their mothers copied THEM. The Lady's Magazine in 1789 
observed, All the sex now--from fifteen to fifty upwards (I should rather say 
downwards) appear in their white muslin frocks with broad sashes. Marie 
Antoinette's son appears to have been one of the first to appear in a 
distinctive little boy's suit.


The writings of Enlightenment philosophers, such as John Locke and (that great 
hypocrite) Jean Jacques Rousseau, may have influenced how people dressed their 
children--giving them distinctive styles rather than dressing them as miniature 
adults.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Maggie Koenig hhalb94...@aol.com
To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Sun, Mar 31, 2013 6:38 am
Subject: [h-cost] Children's fashions.


Something I've been pondering. In what era/decade/year/location/something else 
do you consider there to be a development of a separate fashion for children. 
By 
children I mean potty trained age and over. 

In the early 19th century there seemed to be a separate fashion for boys but 
not 
girls with the so called skeleton suit.  But by the mid19th century they did a 
brief stint in pants and tunic then it was on to miniature adult styles. For 
girls I start seeing the separate styles by the 1840s and they were definitely 
there by the 1860s. However, I severely lack knowledge of earlier periods. Am I 
just not seeing the kids styles? 

It also strikes me that we are moving back to kids wearing miniature adult 
styles. 

Maggie Koenig

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[annbwass]

Two Regency era tailcoats--one a linen check, for a June event in Virginia, and 
one navy blue wool, just because every man needs one in his wardrobe.


Want to get started on a red velvet reticule for a reenactment in May. Then to 
finish the accessories for my red and yellow gown--finish the belt, decorate a 
bonnet with the ribbon I bought in England, and make a neck handkerchief--I 
actually do not own a plain white one and have decided I need one.


Would also like to make a nankeen habit for June, but don't know if I'll get 
that far.


Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Mar 31, 2013 4:40 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?


I'm woefully under-inspired by my half-completed ragtime ballgown.  So
under-inspired that I have my nose in the Cosimo di Medici book (Moda
Italia #2).
Glad of a change of topic,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

 At 11:19 31/03/2013, you wrote:

 Now, on to the historical costuming side and not Fran's over inflated ego,
 what is everyone working on?  Anyone else doing the Historical Fortnightly?

 -Isabella
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Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber

[annbwass]

My new-old Easter dress is polyester (a thrift store purchase), and I have to 
say, I'm glad the pleats in the skirt could be permanently set.


Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Mar 31, 2013 5:00 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber


The Wall Street Journal says so!

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB120430818244003421.html?mod=slideshow_overlay_mod

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on making historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)

[annbwass]

Fran and I don't always see eye to eye. But I have to agree with her on this 
one. Sounds like these tunics/shifts, which started the discussion, exist in 
great numbers. Let us hope someone, somewhere, has saved a couple, along with 
their provenance (if they were indeed worn at institutions, or whatever). For 
the rest, well, we can't save EVERYTHING. If we did, we would be covered with 
mountains of stuff.  



Museums run out of storage space eventually, you know. Even the National Museum 
of American History (aka America's Attic), is getting extremely selective about 
what they will collect. They just don't have room for everything everyone wants 
to give them.



And as to Fran's being rude, well, some of you gave her a pretty hard time, too.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Maggie Koenig hhalb94...@aol.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sat, Mar 30, 2013 7:24 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)


Fran, at this point I think you are just being downright rude. Someone said 
something you disagree with and instead of being open to a discussion about 
preservation vs. use you are just telling us all to go away. So, please either 
contribute while respecting the opinions of others or stop posting on the 
subject.

   Maggie Koenig

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 30, 2013, at 2:35 AM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com wrote:

 I fail to see how it's any of your business.
 
 Fran
 
 
 On 3/29/2013 10:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote:
 Dear Isabella,
 
 Likewise. I am sure. Brava! for saying so out loud.
 
 == Marjorie Wilser
 
 
 On Mar 29, 2013, at 1:25 PM, . . wrote:
 
 I am HORRIFIED at the idea of using an antique piece of our cultural 
 history 
as something to wear; let alone cut it and dye it!  Would you buy a slightly 
rundown Victorian house and tear it up to sell off the pieces and remake it 
into 
a modern home?   Of course not!  Most countries now have regulations to protect 
these homes as part of our cultural heritage.  It's sad that we do not have 
similar laws to protect against the destruction of antiquities as is being 
described here.  I'm completly revolted at the idea of tearing up a garmet that 
is not shreaded, not in rags, just to make a t-tunic?   You can make a t-tunic 
out of good old linen for far less than $40 if watch for coupons and stash 
reduction sales.   There is no reason whatsoever to destroy a piece of history 
just to get something to wear.
 
 -Isabella
 
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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)

[annbwass]

Once more playing devil's advocate here. I know that, through the lens of 
hindsight, we are dismayed that people took 18th century gowns and altered them 
to wear in 1876, for example. But you know, this kind of re-use is what might 
have gotten them saved at all. Cleaning out the attic--who needs this old thing 
anymore? Oh, don't throw it out, it would be perfect for the centennial ball 
this summer!


So don't judge too harshly.


But I will add--we have a local vintage clothing dealer who has come to me with 
two dresses that she knows are worth saving. One is from the early 19th 
century--it has been mucked with some, but not too badly; and one is probably 
mid-19th century.  She rescued them but won't sell them in her shop.


Ann Wass






 
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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)

[annbwass]

Costumers ARE consumers! Somebody or something is going to be wearing the 
product, right? Even if it is made for display on a mannequin, that is 
consumption.


And re-making something isn't destroying it.


But I don't collect vintage or antiques clothing or textiles, either. I just 
admire others'. I'm strictly making period style things from modern materials. 


I have been known to buy 1950s and 1960s era things from thrift stores, though, 
and altering them to fit to wear for costume. 


So, how far do we go? 1950s? 1040s? 1920s? 



Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sat, Mar 30, 2013 11:19 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)


And here I thought this list was for *costumers* and not consumers and  
destroyers.

 == Marjorie Wilser



On Mar 30, 2013, at 7:40 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:


 But apparently you don't even collect antique textiles yourself. You  
 are certainly welcome to do so, but are in no position to dictate to  
 others regarding it.

  Rather than taking that dress in or out, why not check out the  
 seam lines and see if you can recreate a pattern from it?

 Because I don't want to.

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Re: [h-cost] Fabrics Medieval vs Modern--ot

[annbwass]

Ramie was trendy in the 1980s because it was not limited by the then-current 
textile import quotas. The Chinese, having a history of growing and producing 
it, saw this as an opportunity to get more products exported to the US. Because 
of its crystalline structure, it is hard to dye--even harder than linen (flax), 
IIRC.


Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Mar 12, 2013 2:13 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabrics Medieval vs Modern


Ramie was trendy in the 1980s.  I had a couple of 100% ramie blouses.  
They were like a slightly bristly linen, less shiny after ironing, and 
did not wear quite as well as linen.  They retained dye at about the 
same level as linen, that is, less well than cotton.

Then again, some of that may have been due to the quality of the 
blouses, which although not rock bottom quality/label/price were not 
high end, either.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books of historic clothing patterns
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress


On 3/12/2013 7:40 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:
 I once had a cardigan which included ramie fibre. According to Wikipedia this 
is the same plant as the Chinese grass that Fran mentioned, a kind of nettle. 
Apparently it is difficult to use alone as it doesn't stretch and has many 
projecting hairs. I can vouch that this is true of stinging nettle fibre, 
which I once had a try at hand-spinning.

 Kate Bunting
 Librarian  17th century reenactor
 Derby, UK



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Re: [h-cost] Source for buttons?

[annbwass]

Thanks so much! 10 is more than enough, and the price is right. Just placed the 
order.


I'm not in the Etsy habit yet--I did look on eBay and came up empty.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Mar 10, 2013 8:32 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for buttons?


Not sure how many you need, but I found these vintage ones on Etsy. They only 
have 10 though. (Disclaimer: not affiliated with seller in any way.)
http://www.etsy.com/listing/123790859/vintage-grey-half-dome-pearl-buttons


Teena




 From: annbw...@aol.com annbw...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Source for buttons?
 
I am looking for spherical pearl (or pearl-like) buttons--you know, like the 
kind on long gloves--but in a smoky gray color, not white. Does anyone know of 
a 
source?


Ann Wass
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[h-cost] Source for buttons?

[annbwass]

I am looking for spherical pearl (or pearl-like) buttons--you know, like the 
kind on long gloves--but in a smoky gray color, not white. Does anyone know of 
a source?


Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?

[annbwass]

-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Feb 28, 2013 2:11 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?


To me, Seton's headgear appears to be a somewhat wilted version of the  
mob cap, not stiffened like a bonnet, or really much shaped like one.  
Not a poke bonnet because it doesn't hide her face.

 == Marjorie

On Feb 27, 2013, at 4:45 PM, Monica Spence wrote:

 I went to school at Seton Hill College (now Seton Hill University).  
 It is
 run by Mother's Seton's Sisters of Charity, so I've seen the bonnet up
 close. It reminds me of the poke bonnet that became popular in the  
 Romantic
 and Crinoline periods. A bit early, I know, but just a thought that  
 it may
 be an early version of the style.

 Monica Spence

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Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?

[annbwass]

Monica, I've seen later versions of the habit, and you are right that the 
headgear did look like a bonnet, which you pointed out wasn't around until 
after Mother Seton's death in 1821. And the dress itself is more in the style 
of the 1840s or 50s. So I think that habit evolved from whatever Mother Seton 
chose, which one assumes would have been more in the style of 1810-20. (Here 
choice COULD, of course, been a style earlier than that, but it couldn't have 
been later!)


As Marjorie points out, this headgear looks like a cap, but I just haven't seen 
references to black caps, even for mourning. That is why I'm asking if it was 
an Italian thing.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Feb 28, 2013 2:11 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?


To me, Seton's headgear appears to be a somewhat wilted version of the  
mob cap, not stiffened like a bonnet, or really much shaped like one.  
Not a poke bonnet because it doesn't hide her face.

 == Marjorie

On Feb 27, 2013, at 4:45 PM, Monica Spence wrote:

 I went to school at Seton Hill College (now Seton Hill University).  
 It is
 run by Mother's Seton's Sisters of Charity, so I've seen the bonnet up
 close. It reminds me of the poke bonnet that became popular in the  
 Romantic
 and Crinoline periods. A bit early, I know, but just a thought that  
 it may
 be an early version of the style.

 Monica Spence

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Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?

[annbwass]

Sorry for the phantom send. See my next message, please.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: annbwass annbw...@aol.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Feb 28, 2013 5:54 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?






-Original Message-
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Feb 28, 2013 2:11 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?


To me, Seton's headgear appears to be a somewhat wilted version of the  
mob cap, not stiffened like a bonnet, or really much shaped like one.  
Not a poke bonnet because it doesn't hide her face.

 == Marjorie

On Feb 27, 2013, at 4:45 PM, Monica Spence wrote:

 I went to school at Seton Hill College (now Seton Hill University).  
 It is
 run by Mother's Seton's Sisters of Charity, so I've seen the bonnet up
 close. It reminds me of the poke bonnet that became popular in the  
 Romantic
 and Crinoline periods. A bit early, I know, but just a thought that  
 it may
 be an early version of the style.

 Monica Spence

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[h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?

[annbwass]

I am researching Saint Elizabeth Ann Seton. Supposedly, the habit of the order 
she founded originated in her widow's dress. She was widowed in 1804 while she 
was in Italy. Here is a link to a portrait that was supposed to have been 
painted then, although I have my doubts.


http://catholicgene.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/st-elizabeth-ann-seton-1804-portrait.jpg?w=417h=529


Of course I can accept her wearing black, but that headgear doesn't look like 
anything I've seen from images at that time. So my question is, could it have 
been something distinctly Italian? Or does anyone know of images of anything 
similar from elsewhere?


Thanks.


Ann Wass




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Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?

[annbwass]

Notice that she is wearing 
a bonnet that ties under her chin

Now Mother Cabrini's bonnet is very typical of European/American styles of the 
late 19th century, whereas Elizabeth Ann Seton's does not seem typical of 
styles of her era. That is why I asked the question about its possibly being an 
Italian style.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Kathleen Norvell app...@aol.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 7:07 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dr


Here is a photo of Saint Frances Cabrini (1850-1917). Notice that she is 
wearing 
a bonnet that ties under her chin. Not saying it's an Italian style, but as 
soon 
as I saw Elizabeth Seton's headgear, I thought of Mother Cabrini. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frances_Xavier_Cabrini

Kathy

Kathleen Norvell
app...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: annbwass annbw...@aol.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 6:59 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?


I am researching Saint Elizabeth Ann Seton. Supposedly, the habit of the order 
he founded originated in her widow's dress. She was widowed in 1804 while she 
as in Italy. Here is a link to a portrait that was supposed to have been 
ainted then, although I have my doubts.

ttp://catholicgene.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/st-elizabeth-ann-seton-1804-portrait.jpg?w=417h=529

f course I can accept her wearing black, but that headgear doesn't look like 
nything I've seen from images at that time. So my question is, could it have 
een something distinctly Italian? Or does anyone know of images of anything 
imilar from elsewhere?

hanks.

nn Wass


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Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions

[annbwass]

Suzanne and Sybella, thank you both. Evidentually, I will follow up on what you 
posted, 'Bella. I, too, dabble in millinery but am no expert. And Suzanne, 
nothing like just plunging in and trying it, is there?


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Sybella mae...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:09
Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions


Thank you for the update, Suzanne! I'd love to see pictures. :)


I found treasure today, and I think you're realy going to like it!
http://www.sewweekly.com/2011/04/10-free-hat-tutorials-patterns/

Mena, SewWeekly's blogger, did an excellent job pulling together a list of
free tutorials on the web. I love that there is a of variety hats (that
they weren't all variations on the same theme or year). I couldn't help but
take at look at each tutorial as soon as I found the list!

Each tutorial is written by different person. Some were dumbed down. A few
assumed advanced experience. Most were in the middle, similar to a
knowledge base expected for a big three commercial pattern. However, number
4 kind of blew me away. Just drafting your pattern requires an advanced
degree in mathematics!

I found one broken link, and it's most unfortunate. It went to a hat making
book, from '52, posted online.

Anyway, give it a looksee. I hope you're as tickled as I am and I couldn't
wait to share it with you.

'Bella



On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:07 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote:

 Thanks, 'Bella!

 Armed with a copy of Denise Dreher's From the Neck Up: an illustrated
 guide to hatmaking and your helpful posts, we forged ahead with the 1908
 hat project today.  Using lightweight wool felt and a heavy non-fusible
 interfacing (possibly Pel-tex'… it was in my stash but not labeled), and
 hand stitching, we got a nice approximation of the turban in McCall Pattern
 No. 6260, Scotch Hats.  (There are 3 views: a scotch cap which is
 fairly simple, a tam-o-'shanter which looks like a large Buster Brown
 hat, and the turban which is what took my student's fancy.)  I haven't
 found any images for this pattern on teh interwebz -- it appears that
 McCall's has re-used that number at least 6 times in the intervening
 century -- so I'll try to get it posted on our Facebook page next week.  :-)

 I couldn't find hat canvas in our small midwestern town, and I didn't want
 to use buckram (available at JoAnn's in the utility fabric section) because
 it's not water-proof, so that dictated the choice of materials.  I'm going
 to try another version with a lightweight fashion fabric for comparison.
  The pattern directions assume that you know when to trim and clip the seam
 allowance, and when to stitch the center back seam, and how to apply the
 embellishments… it was an interesting exercise in historic interpretation.
  The next challenge is to figure out how to adapt the pattern for different
 head sizes (I think this one assumes that you'll be wearing it on top of
 big hair).

 We're jazzed now and thinking about ordering hat canvas and millinery wire
 online so we can tackle more complicated projects.
 Suzanne


 On Feb 15, 2013, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:

  Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
  Date: February 14, 2013 9:50:30 PM CST
  To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
  ….
 
  Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a
 little
  bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you
 have
  though...poo!)
 
  Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya!
 
  This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a
  paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric
 suggestions,
  go to my homepage.
 
  http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html
 
  'Bella

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[h-cost] Tailcoat Workshop at Riversdale

[annbwass]

TAILCOAT WORKSHOP AT THE RIVERSDALE HOUSE MUSEUM
SATURDAY, MARCH 23, 9 am-2 pm
Learn to use modern techniques and materials to construct acivilian man’s 
Federal/Regency tailcoat with an acceptable period “look.” 
Pre-workshopinstructions will be sent so you can come ready to work. Bring a 
bag lunch.
 
Note—we will include some discussion of actual periodtechniques and the 
rationale for modern adaptations.
 
Advance payment is required by March 18. Fee is $12.
Call 301-864-0420 or email riversd...@pgparks.com for moreinformation or to 
register.
 
Riversdale is located at 4811 Riverdale Road in RiverdalePark, Maryland.
 
Ann Wass, Ph.D.
History/Museum Specialist
Riversdale House Museum
Department of Parks andRecreation
The Maryland-National CapitalPark and Planning Commission
4811 Riverdale Road, RiverdalePark MD 20737
ann.w...@pgparks.com /http://history.pgparks.com
301-864-0420; fax 301-927-3498
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Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?

[annbwass]

I just found out about this:
http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/
from a friend's post on Facebook. I'm going to try it--a fortnightly sewing 
challenge. So far, it is spurring me on to actually make some long-contemplated 
things, use stuff in my stash, and try a couple of new things, too. We'll see 
if I make it through the year, though.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Pierre  Sandy Pettinger costu...@radiks.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 7:48 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Is anyone there?


We've seen no messages since December 18 - is everyone really that busy?

Typical post-holiday question - What costume goodies did you get this year?

I got Steampunk Fashion by Spurgeon Vaughan Ratcliffe.  Also a 
bunch of cooking gadgets.

Sandy

International Costumers' Guild Archivist

http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php

Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 

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Re: [h-cost] Modern sewing challenge - suggestions?

[annbwass]

You should be able to find non-slip fabric--I believe Dritz sells a square in a 
package. You would probably want two layers--flannel inside, and the non-slip 
fabric outside.
There is also a brand called Jiffy Grip.
Here is one link to the Dritz product. There are others.


http://www.craft-e-corner.com/p-43138-anti-skid-gripper-fabric-11x24-white.aspx?utm_source=froogleutm_medium=shoppingutm_campaign=productscagpspn=plagclid=CMviwo-ol7QCFUid4AodfWMAGA


Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg gilshal...@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Dec 13, 2012 4:37 am
Subject: [h-cost] Modern sewing challenge - suggestions?


Greetings,

I'm not able for much sewing these days but I'm attempting 
adult-sized footie-pajamas. The problem I haven't solved yet is, what 
to make the bottom of the feet out of.  My original thought was suede 
but I've never sewn with leather or suede so I have no idea how it 
washes (I have a sneaking suspicion not well...)...  So can anyone 
suggest something that has some traction, is nicely flexible, 
washable, and can be sewn onto a couple of layers of cotton 
flannel?  I need something  warm  cuddly, since our post-war house 
was built with curious ideas about insulation (i.e. not much) which 
isn't great in Minnesota winters.  ;-)  So, any suggestions would be 
greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

[annbwass]

Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European 
peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they frequently 
re-dyed 
them as the natural colors tended to fade.

That is indeed interesting--I knew about the Greek statues, but not the 
warriors. But yes, the statues were colored with pigments--clothing would have 
to have been, in general, colored differently. So still raises the question 
whether the statues were an actual reflection of reality.


As to peasants' clothing--again, depends on the dyes available, as well as the 
labor to use them. The ubiquitous blue indigo is native to India (they used 
woad, which contains the same dye, in early Western Europe). Did the Chinese 
have indigo or woad? All kinds of plants give various yellows--did they use 
them? I don't even know if the peasants wore wool, cotton, flax, or some other 
bast fiber (ramie, also called China grass, does grow in parts of China.) 
This is relevant because the bast fibers, and, to a lesser extent cotton, are 
in general more difficult to dye than wool.


But China is such a massive territory that I'm sure what was worn varied 
greatly with both place and time.


Sorry, again, none of this helps WorkroomButtons, does it?


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 6:56 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?


Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European 
peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they frequently 
re-dyed 
them as the natural colors tended to fade.

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a clue 
about 
peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to think about is, 
colour 
was used a lot more that it would appear now.  The statues pretty much appear 
to 
be a consistent mud shade, right?  Well, I was watching one documentary about 
these statutes (I admit it, the things fascinate me), and apparently they used 
to be painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't survive time as well 
as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint left, not enough that 
would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think it was German) museum 
recreated one of the statues and then using the traces of paint found on it, 
painted as it would have been when it was buried and put it on display.  Most 
people are so blown away by the garishness of the colours they have difficulty 
believing that is what it would have looked like.  So after my long 
tangent...don't
 write off colours for the peasant kinds, because if those statues were 
anything 
to go by, apparently there wasn't a colour they didn't like in any combination. 
 
LOL!  Just about enough to make your eyes bleed - as bad as the Greeks!

Cheers,
Danielle
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

[annbwass]

As for peasants, see if you can google Chinese painting for 
that period and look for workers in the rice paddies or something like that.  
There are often travelogue paintings that sometimes have servants hauling 
everything up a mountain.


Ooo, good idea!


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Ginni Morgan ginni.mor...@doj.ca.gov
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 3:54 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?


Um, the June 2012 issue of National Geographic Magazine has an article with 
color photographs on the colors of the Terra Cotta Army.  Check your local 
library (or your neighbors) for a copy.  The colors were stunning.  Definitely 
eye bleeding time.  As for peasants, see if you can google Chinese painting for 
that period and look for workers in the rice paddies or something like that.  
There are often travelogue paintings that sometimes have servants hauling 
everything up a mountain.

Ginni

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf 
Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 3:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European 
peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they frequently 
re-dyed 
them as the natural colors tended to fade.

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a clue 
about 
peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to think about is, 
colour 
was used a lot more that it would appear now.  The statues pretty much appear 
to 
be a consistent mud shade, right?  Well, I was watching one documentary about 
these statutes (I admit it, the things fascinate me), and apparently they used 
to be painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't survive time as well 
as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint left, not enough that 
would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think it was German) museum 
recreated one of the statues and then using the traces of paint found on it, 
painted as it would have been when it was buried and put it on display.  Most 
people are so blown away by the garishness of the colours they have difficulty 
believing that is what it would have looked like.  So after my long 
tangent...don't  write off colours for the peasan!
 t kinds, because if those statues were anything to go by, apparently there 
wasn't a colour they didn't like in any combination.  LOL!  Just about enough 
to 
make your eyes bleed - as bad as the Greeks!

Cheers,
Danielle
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

[annbwass]

 Terra Cotta Warriors and first order of 
business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit

I saw an abbreviated exhibit of the terra cotta warriors a couple of years ago, 
and they weren't all warriors. I know there were, for example, musicians. Maybe 
you can look through a comprehensive set of photos to find some other not 
warriors for inspiration.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sat, Dec 1, 2012 9:19 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?


...or Tales of a Band Mom.

This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and first order 
of 
business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit (stationary instruments like 
xylophones, chimes, etc.)

What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC?  Our band director 
is 
proposing simple wrap-style tunics (like short kimonos) and scrub pants torn 
below the knee -- both dyed in earthy colors.  Semi-accurate?  Horrible?  Are 
conical hats appropriate? --although I can see them getting knocked off.  I'm 
clueless, and can find neither image nor description.

Part II will be terracotta soldier costumes to be worn by very active teenagers 
with drums, but I need to deal with the peasants first.

Help?
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[annbwass]

After I finish replacing the zipper in DH's winter coat.


Ugh! Mending! DH has a suit jacket that needs little patches--going to try 
fusible web for that--then need to replace broken buttons. Our local JoAnn's no 
longer carries brown suit buttons, so I had to go a bit further to Hancock, who 
still has them. 


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Pierre  Sandy Pettinger costu...@radiks.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, Nov 16, 2012 11:42 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?


No dressmaker's dummy, but piled on the worktable:

The (sorta) saloon girl that I didn't get finished in time for the 
event last year, to be finished before Mar. 1 for this year's event...
After I finish replacing the zipper in DH's winter coat.

Sandy

At 12:51 PM 11/13/2012, you wrote:
It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season,
company dinners, Dickens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th
Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical
locale.  Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making (or
re-making) something.  So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing
today?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on
your design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or even in
the
embroidery hoop.

International Costumers' Guild Archivist

http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php

Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 

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Re: [h-cost] red for marriage dress

[annbwass]

Somehow I never got the original thread of this conversation--just two 
follow-ons--so I'm confused.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Tue, Nov 13, 2012 9:32 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] red for marriage dress


Nothing I've found on-line indicates any academic background at all for Ms 
Simeti. She has written 4 books, mostly based on her life in Sicily with her 
Italian husband, including 2 cookbooks.

chimene

On Nov 13, 2012, at 11:29 AM, snsp...@aol.com wrote:

 
 The statement comes from Mary Taylor Simeti's book, Travels with a Medieval 
Queen and is found on page 98.
 
 Nancy
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