Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[clay via Mercedes]

The cable is nigh on perfect.  The spring for the pedal is out of spec.The 
switch was functional after I played with it all.


clay

> On Jan 18, 2017, at 7:38 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does the cable move well?IIRC on a 123 the return spring for the lever is the 
> return spring in the brakes. If the cable sticks the lever will too.
> -Curt
> 
>  From: clay via Mercedes 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List  
> Cc: clay 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 8:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> 
> Previous system was never functional.  PO thought his cable was broken, but 
> had never adjusted the PB.  Closest wrench did an inspect and wanted to 
> replace all the brakes for mucho dinero.  I did it my own self. as the fronts 
> were still meaty enough, just the rears with the leaking hard line wanted all 
> the attention.  I did adjustments to get the shoes to engage, the lines to 
> have a bit less slack, but not tight.  As the shoes seat, I will be playing 
> with the star wheel.  All leaking lines were replaced and the ABS pump was 
> renewed.  There is a new master as well.
> 
> clay
> 
> 
>> On Jan 17, 2017, at 5:30 PM, Craig via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 17:20:40 -0800 clay via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> I have yanked and cranked on it by hand to no impact on the lamp.
>>> There is not much travel at the pedal.  I need to keep on adjusting the
>>> PB at the rotors since it is all new.
>> 
>> It sounds like you need to put back in the slack that was taken out as
>> the previous parking brake shoes/system wore.
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Does the cable move well?IIRC on a 123 the return spring for the lever is the 
return spring in the brakes. If the cable sticks the lever will too.
-Curt

  From: clay via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Cc: clay 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 8:52 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
   
Previous system was never functional.  PO thought his cable was broken, but had 
never adjusted the PB.  Closest wrench did an inspect and wanted to replace all 
the brakes for mucho dinero.  I did it my own self. as the fronts were still 
meaty enough, just the rears with the leaking hard line wanted all the 
attention.  I did adjustments to get the shoes to engage, the lines to have a 
bit less slack, but not tight.  As the shoes seat, I will be playing with the 
star wheel.  All leaking lines were replaced and the ABS pump was renewed.  
There is a new master as well.

clay


> On Jan 17, 2017, at 5:30 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 17:20:40 -0800 clay via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> I have yanked and cranked on it by hand to no impact on the lamp.
>> There is not much travel at the pedal.  I need to keep on adjusting the
>> PB at the rotors since it is all new.
> 
> It sounds like you need to put back in the slack that was taken out as
> the previous parking brake shoes/system wore.
> 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[OK Don via Mercedes]

Crawl under there and check that switch to see that it's working, and
adjust it so it's off when the pedal is up all the way (if it still works).

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 7:20 PM, clay via Mercedes 
wrote:

> I have yanked and cranked on it by hand to no impact on the lamp.  There
> is not much travel at the pedal.  I need to keep on adjusting the PB at the
> rotors since it is all new.
>
> clay
>
>
>


-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[clay via Mercedes]

Previous system was never functional.  PO thought his cable was broken, but had 
never adjusted the PB.   Closest wrench did an inspect and wanted to replace 
all the brakes for mucho dinero.  I did it my own self. as the fronts were 
still meaty enough, just the rears with the leaking hard line wanted all the 
attention.  I did adjustments to get the shoes to engage, the lines to have a 
bit less slack, but not tight.  As the shoes seat, I will be playing with the 
star wheel.  All leaking lines were replaced and the ABS pump was renewed.   
There is a new master as well.

clay


> On Jan 17, 2017, at 5:30 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 17:20:40 -0800 clay via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> I have yanked and cranked on it by hand to no impact on the lamp.
>> There is not much travel at the pedal.  I need to keep on adjusting the
>> PB at the rotors since it is all new.
> 
> It sounds like you need to put back in the slack that was taken out as
> the previous parking brake shoes/system wore.
> 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 17:20:40 -0800 clay via Mercedes
 wrote:

> I have yanked and cranked on it by hand to no impact on the lamp.
> There is not much travel at the pedal.  I need to keep on adjusting the
> PB at the rotors since it is all new.

It sounds like you need to put back in the slack that was taken out as
the previous parking brake shoes/system wore.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[clay via Mercedes]

I have yanked and cranked on it by hand to no impact on the lamp.  There is not 
much travel at the pedal.  I need to keep on adjusting the PB at the rotors 
since it is all new.

clay


> On Jan 16, 2017, at 5:47 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would imagine the parking brake light switch is at the foot pedal
> mechanism, similar to a 124 and 123.  Have you tried lifting the pedal with
> your toe to make sure it is all the way back up?
> 
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> On Mon, Jan 16, 2017 at 8:44 PM, clay via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> 
>> OOO  On that note.  Anybody able to point me toward the parking brake
>> sensor?   While swapping in LCD cluster lights, I put in a working bulb
>> where the parking brake indicator lived.  Now the light stays lit and will
>> not go out even when the parking brake is off.  W126 SDL
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

On a 123 its on the brake lever itself, under the dash I mean...
-Curt

  From: clay via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Cc: clay 
 Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 8:44 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
   
OOO  On that note.  Anybody able to point me toward the parking brake sensor?  
While swapping in LCD cluster lights, I put in a working bulb where the parking 
brake indicator lived.  Now the light stays lit and will not go out even when 
the parking brake is off.  W126 SDL

clay



> On Jan 14, 2017, at 5:58 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Don't forget the parking brake pads.  Rear rotor has a small drum in center, 
> parking brake assembly inside the drum.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Andrew can put his cat on a treadmill (chasing a live mouse) that drive 
a Bosch alternator from one of his former POS wagons, then use the 
electrons generated to recharge his "lektrik bicycle.  THAT would be 
true greenie weenie!



Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
January 16, 2017 at 6:27 PM
Prius?
No, it's even worse than that.
Andrew and I have been shopping for Spark EVs.
Andrew even test drove one (easier for him, he lives in a state where 
they actually sold them).


Mitch.





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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

I do believe that red light also lights up when the brake fluid 
is low. So you might want to check that or the sensor there. 
Sometimes the parking brake doesn't come up all the way if it 
wasn't oiled for a while. Might want to pull up on the peddle and 
see if that is it.


Manfred

clay via Mercedes wrote:

OOO  On that note.  Anybody able to point me toward the parking brake sensor?   
While swapping in LCD cluster lights, I put in a working bulb where the parking 
brake indicator lived.  Now the light stays lit and will not go out even when 
the parking brake is off.  W126 SDL

clay




On Jan 14, 2017, at 5:58 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
wrote:

Don't forget the parking brake pads.  Rear rotor has a small drum in center, 
parking brake assembly inside the drum.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

I would imagine the parking brake light switch is at the foot pedal
mechanism, similar to a 124 and 123.  Have you tried lifting the pedal with
your toe to make sure it is all the way back up?

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Mon, Jan 16, 2017 at 8:44 PM, clay via Mercedes 
wrote:

> OOO  On that note.  Anybody able to point me toward the parking brake
> sensor?   While swapping in LCD cluster lights, I put in a working bulb
> where the parking brake indicator lived.  Now the light stays lit and will
> not go out even when the parking brake is off.  W126 SDL
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[clay via Mercedes]

OOO  On that note.  Anybody able to point me toward the parking brake sensor?   
While swapping in LCD cluster lights, I put in a working bulb where the parking 
brake indicator lived.  Now the light stays lit and will not go out even when 
the parking brake is off.  W126 SDL

clay



> On Jan 14, 2017, at 5:58 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Don't forget the parking brake pads.  Rear rotor has a small drum in center, 
> parking brake assembly inside the drum.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[clay via Mercedes]

Any shop that wants to turn my rotors is asked to return my keys and cease work 
on the vehicle.  Rotors are very cheap compared to the charge the last time I 
had rotors ground on a toyota.   On top of the sales job and telling me how 
many more miles I was going to be able to drive, I ended up having to put new 
rotors on 6 month later, since there was not enough metal left




---
clay

> I turned my computer upside down and shook it, but the bookmark for what I'm 
> looking for didn't fall out.





> On Jan 14, 2017, at 5:52 AM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Kyle, 
> In the 20+ years with my old 617s, it's always been basically replace pads 
> twice, on third time, replace the rotors also. Once I got 3 sets of pads, but 
> that was once. Should not be expensive on the 123. The rears go a long time 
> compared to the fronts (pads and rotors). As it seems with all disk brakes, 
> the fronts take a beating and the rears just sit there. 
> Best Wishes, 
> Roger 
> Roger Hale 
> Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
> Monroe, Ga. 
> 770-267-0850 
> www.dinnerwareclassics.com 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Prius?
No, it's even worse than that. 
Andrew and I have been shopping for Spark EVs.
Andrew even test drove one (easier for him, he lives in a state where they 
actually sold them).

Mitch. 


> On January 16, 2017 at 5:03 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> He has his eye on a Prius so that he can feel moralyl superiority while 
> charging his new clean car on electricity, while ignoring the fact that 
> the electricity was generated by coal.

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

Not a problem. If you truly want to be abused, you can likely buy 
Andrew's other junker for big bucks and suffer like Kyle.
There is very little doubt that Andrew, being a good liberal, fails to 
sleep at night while thinking of the harm his dirty old diesel is doing 
to the world's atmosphere.
He has his eye on a Prius so that he can feel moralyl superiority while 
charging his new clean car on electricity, while ignoring the fact that 
the electricity was generated by coal. A step removed is sufficient for 
the believers.


RB

On 16/01/2017 12:44 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

That may be the best retort ever!

Too bad Kleb does not maintain the hall of fame anymore!  that is 
worthy of being archived.



Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
January 14, 2017 at 3:41 PM
Rick,

I would accept your most generous offer but unfortunately I don't 
feel that

passing my misfortune onto you is worth so little. If you really want to
double your misfortune, as I have done, then I suggest a paltry, nay
measly, €15,000. You see Rick, you must pay to earn this right. That 
should

set you on the path of destruction..

Kyle


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

That may be the best retort ever!

Too bad Kleb does not maintain the hall of fame anymore!  that is worthy 
of being archived.



Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
January 14, 2017 at 3:41 PM
Rick,

I would accept your most generous offer but unfortunately I don't feel 
that

passing my misfortune onto you is worth so little. If you really want to
double your misfortune, as I have done, then I suggest a paltry, nay
measly, €15,000. You see Rick, you must pay to earn this right. That 
should

set you on the path of destruction..

Kyle


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I've reused them even if they are wavy.  I have also taken a grinder and 
removed the outer lip to make the removal of pads easier.  But, I have 
NEVER had them turned.  At that point, new rotors is the way to go.



Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
January 14, 2017 at 7:38 AM
So, did I understand correctly that the passenger side axle is a non-MB
replacement, and that this is also the only one that is dead?

You _can_ turn a MB rotor, but there is a thickness spec and there's not a
lot of fat to trim. Turning them is definitely not on the 'always do'
list, like it is on a Chebby peecup.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Thassa keeper!  Thanks Philip (for all of us)


fmiser via Mercedes 
January 13, 2017 at 9:57 PM

Kyle wrote:



Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...


Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

Here's my procedure

 * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
   differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
   fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
   back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
   so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
   drain plugs.

 * While the oil is draining:

- take off the wheel(s)

- take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
  come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
  always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
  by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
  than necessary.

- remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
  hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
  in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
  shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
  but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

 * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
   to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
   about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
   high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
   none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
   high.

 * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
   called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
   that hold the differential mount to the frame.

 * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
   a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
   top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
   wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
   valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
   differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
   The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
   little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
   is removed.

 * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
   of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
   end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
   other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
   the retainer clip.

 * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
   high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
   body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.

 * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
   past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
   is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
   differential.

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
 * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
   on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
   shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
   together more easily.

 * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
   differential.

 * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

 * With the differential jack lower the differential.

 * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
   Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

 * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
   spec.

 * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
   differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
   spec.

 * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

 * Put the brake caliper back on.

 * Put the wheel on.

 * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.

 * Remove the differential jack.

 * Lower the car to the ground.

Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.

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Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
January 13, 2017 at 3:12 PM
Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. I 
will let

you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...

The other company I was looking at is still manufactured in Asia...

Kyle

On Jan 13, 2017 2:32 PM, "Mountain Man via Mercedes" 


__

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

Thanks to Manfred and Max tor correcting my nomenclature.  I could never
keep those names straight.  I'll try to use this memory trick:  homo means
same and the homo axle is the same (splined) at both ends.

> -Original Message-
> From: MG via Mercedes
> 
> Reverse the two names and you will be right.
> 
> Manfred
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

http://www.google.com/search?q=homokinetic+axle&prmd=ivns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiTkoilq8XRAhVs9IMKHaZlBs0QsAQIDQ

http://www.google.com/search?q=annular+axle&tbm=isch&oq=annular+axle&gs_l=mobile-heirloom-serp.3...21951.25019.0.25538.18.10.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.00...1c..34.mobile-heirloom-serp..18.0.0.4Jt8mqcKSa8

I think I have it right

Kyle

On Jan 15, 2017 6:46 PM, "MG via Mercedes"  wrote:

> Reverse the two names and you will be right.
>
> Manfred
>
> Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> Sounds like Kyle read this FCP article but here's a link for interested
>> others:
>> https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/the-axle-dilemma-oem-rebuilt-used
>>
>> Both my 79 TD (since sold) and 82 SD (still have) came with the annular
>> style axle (where you need to open the differential to replace an axle).
>> Is it true that all new axles are homokinetic style or is that just
>> certain builders?  As I understand it (haven't done it), converting to
>> homokinetic requires a kit that installs in the differential like the
>> inboard end of the old-style axle.  Is that right?
>>
>> Scott
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>>> From:  Kyle Arola via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 12:58 PM
>>> To:
>>> So I read that the OEM part was manufactured by GKN Drivetech.  I can get
>>> those from Amazon for $400 with free shipping, or here for $380.  I know
>>> for a
>>> fact that the passenger side is the annular type
>>>
>>> http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?mercedes~benz/1985/300td/bas
>>> e/3.0l-l5/allb/driveline-and-axles/cv-components/cv-axle-
>>> assembly/pagenum1/tabs
>>>
>>> I am not trying to start a flame war, but if that is the OEM
>>> manufacturer, why
>>> should I not go for it?  Or is this not the OEM manufacturer and the
>>> internet
>>> lied to me once again!
>>>
>>> Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Scott, 

Homokinetic are the single piece (remember: homo is the root) axle, that 
require the differential to be opened to remove the axle.

Can-annular are two-piece.  The inner piece is simply a stub that is inserted 
into the differential, same hole the homokinetic was removed from, and it 
transfers the torque from inside the diff to outside.  The outer piece of the 
axle bolts to the outside face of the stub, and then bolts to the wheel carrier.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On January 15, 2017 6:39:37 PM EST, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Sounds like Kyle read this FCP article but here's a link for interested
>others:
>https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/the-axle-dilemma-oem-rebuilt-used
>
>Both my 79 TD (since sold) and 82 SD (still have) came with the annular
>style axle (where you need to open the differential to replace an
>axle).  
>
>Is it true that all new axles are homokinetic style or is that just
>certain builders?  As I understand it (haven't done it), converting to
>homokinetic requires a kit that installs in the differential like the
>inboard end of the old-style axle.  Is that right?
>
>Scott
>
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From:  Kyle Arola via Mercedes
>> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 12:58 PM
>> To: 
>> 
>> So I read that the OEM part was manufactured by GKN Drivetech.  I can
>get
>> those from Amazon for $400 with free shipping, or here for $380.  I
>know for a
>> fact that the passenger side is the annular type
>> 
>> http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?mercedes~benz/1985/300td/bas
>> e/3.0l-l5/allb/driveline-and-axles/cv-components/cv-axle-
>> assembly/pagenum1/tabs
>> 
>> I am not trying to start a flame war, but if that is the OEM
>manufacturer, why
>> should I not go for it?  Or is this not the OEM manufacturer and the
>internet
>> lied to me once again!
>> 
>> Kyle
>> 
>
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Homokenitic is the original style without the flange and bolts. You have to
open the differential to swap the axles.

Annular is the kind with the flange that you don't have to open the
differential when  you replace them.

I did read that, and another 30 articles or so about swapping the axles
out... Hahaha!

I am going back to the original homokenitic style of axle. This is on the
recommendation of the axle builder and other entheusist MB owners.

Kyle

On Jan 15, 2017 6:39 PM, "Scott Ritchey via Mercedes" 
wrote:

Sounds like Kyle read this FCP article but here's a link for interested
others:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/the-axle-dilemma-oem-rebuilt-used

Both my 79 TD (since sold) and 82 SD (still have) came with the annular
style axle (where you need to open the differential to replace an axle).

Is it true that all new axles are homokinetic style or is that just certain
builders?  As I understand it (haven't done it), converting to homokinetic
requires a kit that installs in the differential like the inboard end of
the old-style axle.  Is that right?

Scott


> -Original Message-
> From:  Kyle Arola via Mercedes
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 12:58 PM
> To:
>
> So I read that the OEM part was manufactured by GKN Drivetech.  I can get
> those from Amazon for $400 with free shipping, or here for $380.  I know
for a
> fact that the passenger side is the annular type
>
> http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?mercedes~benz/1985/300td/bas
> e/3.0l-l5/allb/driveline-and-axles/cv-components/cv-axle-
> assembly/pagenum1/tabs
>
> I am not trying to start a flame war, but if that is the OEM
manufacturer, why
> should I not go for it?  Or is this not the OEM manufacturer and the
internet
> lied to me once again!
>
> Kyle
>


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

Reverse the two names and you will be right.

Manfred

Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

Sounds like Kyle read this FCP article but here's a link for interested others:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/the-axle-dilemma-oem-rebuilt-used

Both my 79 TD (since sold) and 82 SD (still have) came with the annular style axle (where you need to open the differential to replace an axle).  


Is it true that all new axles are homokinetic style or is that just certain 
builders?  As I understand it (haven't done it), converting to homokinetic 
requires a kit that installs in the differential like the inboard end of the 
old-style axle.  Is that right?

Scott



-Original Message-
From:  Kyle Arola via Mercedes
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 12:58 PM
To: 


So I read that the OEM part was manufactured by GKN Drivetech.  I can get
those from Amazon for $400 with free shipping, or here for $380.  I know for a
fact that the passenger side is the annular type

http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?mercedes~benz/1985/300td/bas
e/3.0l-l5/allb/driveline-and-axles/cv-components/cv-axle-
assembly/pagenum1/tabs

I am not trying to start a flame war, but if that is the OEM manufacturer, why
should I not go for it?  Or is this not the OEM manufacturer and the internet
lied to me once again!

Kyle




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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

Sounds like Kyle read this FCP article but here's a link for interested others:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/the-axle-dilemma-oem-rebuilt-used

Both my 79 TD (since sold) and 82 SD (still have) came with the annular style 
axle (where you need to open the differential to replace an axle).  

Is it true that all new axles are homokinetic style or is that just certain 
builders?  As I understand it (haven't done it), converting to homokinetic 
requires a kit that installs in the differential like the inboard end of the 
old-style axle.  Is that right?

Scott


> -Original Message-
> From:  Kyle Arola via Mercedes
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 12:58 PM
> To: 
> 
> So I read that the OEM part was manufactured by GKN Drivetech.  I can get
> those from Amazon for $400 with free shipping, or here for $380.  I know for a
> fact that the passenger side is the annular type
> 
> http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?mercedes~benz/1985/300td/bas
> e/3.0l-l5/allb/driveline-and-axles/cv-components/cv-axle-
> assembly/pagenum1/tabs
> 
> I am not trying to start a flame war, but if that is the OEM manufacturer, why
> should I not go for it?  Or is this not the OEM manufacturer and the internet
> lied to me once again!
> 
> Kyle
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

If I remember you are supposed to put the new axle in with the 
original shim and there should be no visible play but the clip 
should just be able to be turned in the groove. If there is play 
then you have to measure it and get a new spacer of the correct 
size. The problem is that MB doesn't have all of the original 
sizes. The last time I tried to get the whole range of sizes The 
parts guy told me there was only one size available. So 
practically just put it together with the shim you have and be 
done with it and that's according to a dealer mechanic that 
originally learned from the MB school on the 123 models back in 
the day when they were new. For what that's worth.


Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

Yeah that part is important. I will be doing one side at a time so not to
swap shims side to side. Don't they have to do with differential/axle
spacing and sized for specific sides?

Thanks!


On Jan 14, 2017 11:34 PM, "MG via Mercedes"  wrote:

My bad. Incorrect term on my part.

Manfred


Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


Good catch!  Shim really, not just a washer.



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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Got it. In 2 weeks I am doing the rear wheel bearings, because I can, and
the axles...

Kyle

On Jan 15, 2017 4:20 PM, "fmiser via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> MG wrote:
>>
>
> You forgot one crucial step. Take the washer off the
>> differential end shaft and put it on the differential end shaft
>> of the new axle.
>>
>
> What washer?
>
> There is one on the bolt holding the axle in the hub..
>
> Ah!  The shims.  Right.
>
> There is one or more precision thickness shims that are on the
> shaft at the differential determining how far the shaft enters the
> differential housing.  Those shims are differential specific, not
> axle specific, so should be moved to the "new" axle.
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[fmiser via Mercedes]

MG wrote:



You forgot one crucial step. Take the washer off the
differential end shaft and put it on the differential end shaft
of the new axle.


What washer?

There is one on the bolt holding the axle in the hub..

Ah!  The shims.  Right.

There is one or more precision thickness shims that are on the
shaft at the differential determining how far the shaft enters the
differential housing.  Those shims are differential specific, not
axle specific, so should be moved to the "new" axle.

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

I did. That is where I ordered from. Steve was super helpful. I just did
not go into detail about the swap back. He did tell me about the spacers,
which I am assuming are the shims...

Kyle

On Jan 15, 2017 1:40 PM, "Meade Dillon via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Another thought: consult with the place the Dan linked?
>
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Another thought: consult with the place the Dan linked?

-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Will do. Thanks Max!
Kyle

On Jan 15, 2017 1:31 PM, "Meade Dillon via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Check the service manual, from foggy memory they are setting the gap inside
> the differential for the circlip.  I'm sure MB has some special tool to
> measure the run-out in order to determine the shim thickness.  I think that
> "close enough" is usually the result of re-using the original shim.  If you
> can get the circlip on, and push/pull on the axle stub doesn't reveal
> "excessive" play, you're probably good to go.  I would imagine that
> excessive play would result in noise (banging / clacking) as the axle stub
> moves in and out, so pay attention if any new noises develop.
>
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
> On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 1:20 PM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Yeah that part is important. I will be doing one side at a time so not to
> > swap shims side to side. Don't they have to do with differential/axle
> > spacing and sized for specific sides?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> >
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Check the service manual, from foggy memory they are setting the gap inside
the differential for the circlip.  I'm sure MB has some special tool to
measure the run-out in order to determine the shim thickness.  I think that
"close enough" is usually the result of re-using the original shim.  If you
can get the circlip on, and push/pull on the axle stub doesn't reveal
"excessive" play, you're probably good to go.  I would imagine that
excessive play would result in noise (banging / clacking) as the axle stub
moves in and out, so pay attention if any new noises develop.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 1:20 PM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Yeah that part is important. I will be doing one side at a time so not to
> swap shims side to side. Don't they have to do with differential/axle
> spacing and sized for specific sides?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Yeah that part is important. I will be doing one side at a time so not to
swap shims side to side. Don't they have to do with differential/axle
spacing and sized for specific sides?

Thanks!


On Jan 14, 2017 11:34 PM, "MG via Mercedes"  wrote:

My bad. Incorrect term on my part.

Manfred


Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

> Good catch!  Shim really, not just a washer.
>

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

My bad. Incorrect term on my part.

Manfred

Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Good catch!  Shim really, not just a washer.


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Good catch!  Shim really, not just a washer.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On January 14, 2017 9:45:48 PM EST, MG via Mercedes  
wrote:
>You forgot one crucial step. Take the washer off the differential 
>end shaft and put it on the differential end shaft of the new axle.
>
>Manfred
>
>fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
>>> Kyle wrote:
>> 
>>> Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
>>> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...
>> 
>> Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
>> Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
>> less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
>> car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
>> many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
>> immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.
>> 
>> Here's my procedure
>> 
>>  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
>>differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
>>fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
>>back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
>>so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
>>drain plugs.
>> 
>>  * While the oil is draining:
>> 
>> - take off the wheel(s)
>> 
>> - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
>>   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
>>   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
>>   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
>>   than necessary.
>> 
>> - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
>>   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
>>   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
>>   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
>>   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.
>> 
>>  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
>>to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
>>about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
>>high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
>>none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
>>high.
>> 
>>  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
>>called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
>>that hold the differential mount to the frame.
>> 
>>  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
>>a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
>>top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
>>wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
>>valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
>>differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
>>The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
>>little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
>>is removed.
>> 
>>  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
>>of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
>>end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
>>other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
>>the retainer clip.
>> 
>>  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
>>high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
>>body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.
>> 
>>  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
>>past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
>>is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
>>differential.
>> 
>> Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
>>  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
>>on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
>>shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
>>together more easily.
>> 
>>  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
>>differential.
>> 
>>  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.
>> 
>>  * With the differential jack lower the differential.
>> 
>>  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
>>Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.
>> 
>>  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
>>spec.
>> 
>>  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
>>differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
>>spec.
>> 
>>  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.
>> 
>>  * Put the brake caliper back on.
>> 
>>  * Put the wheel on.
>> 
>>  * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.
>> 
>>  * Remove the differential jack.
>> 
>>  * Lower the car to the ground.
>> 
>> Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
>> clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
>> for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.
>> 
>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

You forgot one crucial step. Take the washer off the differential 
end shaft and put it on the differential end shaft of the new axle.


Manfred

fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

Kyle wrote:



Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...


Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

Here's my procedure

 * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
   differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
   fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
   back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
   so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
   drain plugs.

 * While the oil is draining:

- take off the wheel(s)

- take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
  come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
  always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
  by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
  than necessary.

- remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
  hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
  in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
  shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
  but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

 * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
   to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
   about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
   high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
   none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
   high.

 * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
   called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
   that hold the differential mount to the frame.

 * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
   a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
   top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
   wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
   valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
   differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
   The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
   little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
   is removed.

 * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
   of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
   end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
   other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
   the retainer clip.

 * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
   high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
   body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.

 * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
   past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
   is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
   differential.

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
 * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
   on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
   shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
   together more easily.

 * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
   differential.

 * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

 * With the differential jack lower the differential.

 * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
   Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

 * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
   spec.

 * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
   differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
   spec.

 * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

 * Put the brake caliper back on.

 * Put the wheel on.

 * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.

 * Remove the differential jack.

 * Lower the car to the ground.

Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

In my limited experience, the OE axles only fail when the boots rip and dirt
enters the joint.  Those OE boots were quite robust and could develop deep
surface cracks long before opening a hole.  Rebuild and third-party axles
had a poor reputation, at least in the past, so used OE axles from a wreck
were preferred.

The symptoms you describe (free play) suggest a rebuilt or aftermarket axle.


After all these years, I suspect the supply of god used axles is mighty
thin.  My 300SD still has the factory axles but they are living on borrowed
time.  So I (and probably several others) wait with interest to hear how the
GKNs work out.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Kyle Arola via Mercedes
> 
> Andrew,
> 
> Clunking when I manipulate the hub, with the wheel off, from the cv joint
> closest to the wheel. I can see the little bit of play before the shaft
starts to
> move. Knock\clunk when making left turns at 20+ mph also.
> 
> It started about 4 days ago at 35+mph left turn corners. Lightly and now
more
> loudly. Easy to diagnose with the rear end up on jackstands and the wheels
off
> the car. Only HAVE to do the passenger side, but I am doing both to avoid
the
> drivers side failing 2 weeks after I finish the passenger.
> Murphy's law prevention.. Hahaha!
> Kyle
> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Thanks Roger! Good info...

 The rears are pretty worn so I am going to do both pads and rotors without
trying to turn them. I am fairly certain the rotors can't be turned on my
case. I am replacing with Brembro ceramic pads and rotors. I will inspect
the fronts after I finish the axles next week.

Kyle


On Jan 14, 2017 8:52 AM, "rogerhga--- via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Kyle,
> In the 20+ years with my old 617s, it's always been basically replace pads
> twice, on third time, replace the rotors also. Once I got 3 sets of pads,
> but that was once. Should not be expensive on the 123. The rears go a long
> time compared to the fronts (pads and rotors). As it seems with all disk
> brakes, the fronts take a beating and the rears just sit there.
> Best Wishes,
> Roger
> Roger Hale
> Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
> Monroe, Ga.
> 770-267-0850
> www.dinnerwareclassics.com
>
>
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> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

I saw that and figured I would get to that later. New unit was installed. I
will verify the pads when I am in there.

Thanks!

On Jan 14, 2017 8:58 AM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Don't forget the parking brake pads.  Rear rotor has a small drum in
> center, parking brake assembly inside the drum.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Rick,

I would accept your most generous offer but unfortunately I don't feel that
passing my misfortune onto you is worth so little. If you really want to
double your misfortune, as I have done, then I suggest a paltry, nay
measly, €15,000. You see Rick, you must pay to earn this right. That should
set you on the path of destruction..

Kyle

On Jan 14, 2017 2:51 PM, "Rick Knoble via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> It is becoming painfully obvious that you have purchased a poorly
> maintained POS.
> When it was repaired, it has been repaired with the cheapest, most
> inferior parts
> that were available. It the interest of relieving you of any more grief
> from this less than
> optimal purchase, I am willing to offer you $501 to take this automotive
> nightmare
> off of your hands
>
> Rick
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

It is becoming painfully obvious that you have purchased a poorly maintained 
POS.
When it was repaired, it has been repaired with the cheapest, most inferior 
parts
that were available. It the interest of relieving you of any more grief from 
this less than 
optimal purchase, I am willing to offer you $501 to take this automotive 
nightmare
off of your hands 

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Draining and opening the differential is not required if replacing a two-piece 
axle with a two-piece axle.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On January 13, 2017 10:57:10 PM EST, fmiser via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>> Kyle wrote:
>
>> Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
>> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...
>
>Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
>Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
>less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
>car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
>many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
>immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.
>
>Here's my procedure
>
>  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
>differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
>fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
>back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
>so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
>drain plugs.
>
>  * While the oil is draining:
>
> - take off the wheel(s)
>
> - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
>   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
>   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
>   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
>   than necessary.
>
> - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
>   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
>   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
>   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
>   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.
>
>  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
>to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
>about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
>high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
>none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
>high.
>
>  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
>called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
>that hold the differential mount to the frame.
>
>  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
>a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
>top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
>wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
>valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
>differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
>The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
>little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
>is removed.
>
>  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
>of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
>end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
>other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
>the retainer clip.
>
>  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
>high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
>body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.
>
>  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
>past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
>is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
>differential.
>
>Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
>  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
>on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
>shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
>together more easily.
>
>  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
>differential.
>
>  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.
>
>  * With the differential jack lower the differential.
>
>  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
>Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.
>
>  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
>spec.
>
>  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
>differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
>spec.
>
>  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.
>
>  * Put the brake caliper back on.
>
>  * Put the wheel on.
>
>  * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.
>
>  * Remove the differential jack.
>
>  * Lower the car to the ground.
>
>Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
>clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
>for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
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>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Don't forget the parking brake pads.  Rear rotor has a small drum in center, 
parking brake assembly inside the drum.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[rogerhga--- via Mercedes]

Kyle, 
In the 20+ years with my old 617s, it's always been basically replace pads 
twice, on third time, replace the rotors also. Once I got 3 sets of pads, but 
that was once. Should not be expensive on the 123. The rears go a long time 
compared to the fronts (pads and rotors). As it seems with all disk brakes, the 
fronts take a beating and the rears just sit there. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com 


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

So, did I understand correctly that the passenger side axle is a non-MB
replacement, and that this is also the only one that is dead?

You _can_ turn a MB rotor, but there is a thickness spec and there's not a
lot of fat to trim.  Turning them is definitely not on the 'always do'
list, like it is on a Chebby peecup.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Ahhh. I had heard such things but I was pretty sure that was just talk to
get more of my money... Bummer. Rotors added to the list! At least my list
is shrinking now..

Kyle

On Jan 14, 2017 6:25 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Mercedes rotors should not be turned.  If they’re out of spec they should
> be replaced.  Rears are cheap, even from the dealer.
>
> 126 423 00 12
>
> http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Mercedes_1985_300-TD-TURBODIESEL/BRAKE-DISC/
> 7919906/1264230012.html
>
> Dan
>
>
> > On Jan 14, 2017, at 6:18 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > That is AWESOME Thanks!
> >
> > Now I am going to do the wheelbearings and brakes while I am in there as
> > well. Pads are worn and get the rotors turned also...
> > Nothing like a new rear end! Whoot!
> > Kyle
> >
>
>
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Mercedes rotors should not be turned.  If they’re out of spec they should be 
replaced.  Rears are cheap, even from the dealer.

126 423 00 12

http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Mercedes_1985_300-TD-TURBODIESEL/BRAKE-DISC/7919906/1264230012.html

Dan


> On Jan 14, 2017, at 6:18 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> That is AWESOME Thanks!
> 
> Now I am going to do the wheelbearings and brakes while I am in there as
> well. Pads are worn and get the rotors turned also...
> Nothing like a new rear end! Whoot!
> Kyle
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Andrew,

Clunking when I manipulate the hub, with the wheel off, from the cv joint
closest to the wheel. I can see the little bit of play before the shaft
starts to move. Knock\clunk when making left turns at 20+ mph also.

It started about 4 days ago at 35+mph left turn corners. Lightly and now
more loudly. Easy to diagnose with the rear end up on jackstands and the
wheels off the car. Only HAVE to do the passenger side, but I am doing both
to avoid the drivers side failing 2 weeks after I finish the passenger.
Murphy's law prevention.. Hahaha!
Kyle



On Jan 14, 2017 1:17 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

What were the symptoms again?  Did you notice them on the way down to FL or
subsequently?  Whenever I had an axle problem there was a conspicuous
knocking noise at highway speeds on the straightaway.  Unmistakable.

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 10:57 PM, fmiser via Mercedes  wrote:

> Kyle wrote:
>>
>
> Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
>> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...
>>
>
> Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
> Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
> less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
> car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
> many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
> immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.
>
> Here's my procedure
>
>  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
>differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
>fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
>back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
>so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
>drain plugs.
>
>  * While the oil is draining:
>
> - take off the wheel(s)
>
> - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
>   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
>   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
>   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
>   than necessary.
>
> - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
>   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
>   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
>   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
>   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.
>
>  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
>to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
>about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
>high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
>none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
>high.
>
>  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
>called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
>that hold the differential mount to the frame.
>
>  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
>a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
>top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
>wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
>valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
>differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
>The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
>little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
>is removed.
>
>  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
>of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
>end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
>other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
>the retainer clip.
>
>  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
>high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
>body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.
>
>  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
>past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
>is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
>differential.
>
> Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
>  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
>on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
>shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
>together more easily.
>
>  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
>differential.
>
>  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.
>
>  * With the differential jack lower the differential.
>
>  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
>Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.
>
>  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
>spec.
>
>  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
>differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
>spec.
>
>  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

That is AWESOME Thanks!

Now I am going to do the wheelbearings and brakes while I am in there as
well. Pads are worn and get the rotors turned also...
Nothing like a new rear end! Whoot!
Kyle

On Jan 13, 2017 10:53 PM, "fmiser via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Kyle wrote:
>>
>
> Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
>> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...
>>
>
> Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
> Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
> less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
> car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
> many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
> immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.
>
> Here's my procedure
>
>  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
>differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
>fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
>back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
>so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
>drain plugs.
>
>  * While the oil is draining:
>
> - take off the wheel(s)
>
> - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
>   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
>   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
>   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
>   than necessary.
>
> - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
>   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
>   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
>   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
>   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.
>
>  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
>to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
>about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
>high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
>none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
>high.
>
>  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
>called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
>that hold the differential mount to the frame.
>
>  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
>a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
>top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
>wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
>valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
>differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
>The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
>little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
>is removed.
>
>  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
>of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
>end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
>other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
>the retainer clip.
>
>  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
>high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
>body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.
>
>  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
>past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
>is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
>differential.
>
> Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
>  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
>on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
>shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
>together more easily.
>
>  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
>differential.
>
>  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.
>
>  * With the differential jack lower the differential.
>
>  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
>Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.
>
>  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
>spec.
>
>  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
>differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
>spec.
>
>  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.
>
>  * Put the brake caliper back on.
>
>  * Put the wheel on.
>
>  * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.
>
>  * Remove the differential jack.
>
>  * Lower the car to the ground.
>
> Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
> clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
> for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

What were the symptoms again?  Did you notice them on the way down to FL or
subsequently?  Whenever I had an axle problem there was a conspicuous
knocking noise at highway speeds on the straightaway.  Unmistakable.

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 10:57 PM, fmiser via Mercedes  wrote:

> Kyle wrote:
>>
>
> Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
>> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...
>>
>
> Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
> Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
> less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
> car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
> many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
> immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.
>
> Here's my procedure
>
>  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
>differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
>fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
>back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
>so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
>drain plugs.
>
>  * While the oil is draining:
>
> - take off the wheel(s)
>
> - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
>   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
>   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
>   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
>   than necessary.
>
> - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
>   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
>   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
>   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
>   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.
>
>  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
>to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
>about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
>high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
>none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
>high.
>
>  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
>called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
>that hold the differential mount to the frame.
>
>  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
>a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
>top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
>wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
>valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
>differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
>The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
>little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
>is removed.
>
>  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
>of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
>end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
>other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
>the retainer clip.
>
>  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
>high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
>body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.
>
>  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
>past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
>is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
>differential.
>
> Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
>  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
>on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
>shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
>together more easily.
>
>  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
>differential.
>
>  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.
>
>  * With the differential jack lower the differential.
>
>  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
>Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.
>
>  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
>spec.
>
>  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
>differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
>spec.
>
>  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.
>
>  * Put the brake caliper back on.
>
>  * Put the wheel on.
>
>  * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.
>
>  * Remove the differential jack.
>
>  * Lower the car to the ground.
>
> Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
> clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
> for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
_

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[fmiser via Mercedes]

Meade wrote:



There are two types:  Homokinetic (single piece axle) and
Can-annular (two piece axle).  Later axles are usually the two
piece, so that is probably what you have on your car.


Both my '85s have single piece axles.

And I agree that keeping an original is a good idea.  I have hopes
to re-boot some I have that have bad boots but have not been run while
dry.

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[fmiser via Mercedes]

Kyle wrote:



Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...


Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
car back on the ground.  Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
many) times.  And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

Here's my procedure

 * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
   differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
   fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
   back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
   so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
   drain plugs.

 * While the oil is draining:

- take off the wheel(s)

- take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
  come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
  always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
  by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
  than necessary.

- remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
  hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
  in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
  shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
  but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

 * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
   to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
   about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
   high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
   none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
   high.

 * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
   called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
   that hold the differential mount to the frame.

 * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
   a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
   top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
   wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
   valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
   differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
   The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
   little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
   is removed.

 * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
   of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
   end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
   other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
   the retainer clip.

 * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
   high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
   body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.

 * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
   past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
   is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
   differential.

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
 * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
   on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
   shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
   together more easily.

 * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
   differential.

 * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

 * With the differential jack lower the differential.

 * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
   Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

 * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
   spec.

 * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
   differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
   spec.

 * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

 * Put the brake caliper back on.

 * Put the wheel on.

 * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.

 * Remove the differential jack.

 * Lower the car to the ground.

Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.

___
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. I will let
you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...

The other company I was looking at is still manufactured in Asia...

Kyle

On Jan 13, 2017 2:32 PM, "Mountain Man via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Isn't there a guy in Carolina that rebuilds these?  He did it
> properly, as I recall.  The lube inside the boot obtainable from
> dealer is liquid, not grease.
> ?anyone?
> tin-man
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Mountain Man via Mercedes]

Isn't there a guy in Carolina that rebuilds these?  He did it
properly, as I recall.  The lube inside the boot obtainable from
dealer is liquid, not grease.
?anyone?
tin-man

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

So I read that the OEM part was manufactured by GKN Drivetech.  I can get
those from Amazon for $400 with free shipping, or here for $380.  I know
for a fact that the passenger side is the annular type

http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?mercedes~benz/1985/300td/base/3.0l-l5/allb/driveline-and-axles/cv-components/cv-axle-assembly/pagenum1/tabs

I am not trying to start a flame war, but if that is the OEM manufacturer,
why should I not go for it?  Or is this not the OEM manufacturer and the
internet lied to me once again!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 12:44 PM, Kyle Arola 
wrote:

> True, I do know the previous owner and have all the receipts!  hahaha!
>
> Kyle
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 12:38 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> There will probably be MB star marks and part numbers in several places.
>>
>> Ask the previous owner if he ever replaced that axle, and if it was an MB
>> axle or aftermarket.
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '87 300TD
>> '95 E300
>>
>> On January 13, 2017 9:23:48 AM EST, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> >I am pretty sure the passenger side is not a MB axle, but I will crawl
>> >under there and check.  Where are the stamping? On the shaft? Or
>> >someplace
>> >else?
>> >
>> >Kyle
>> >
>> >On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> >mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> You're missing the point, if its an MB axle (it'll be stamped) and
>> >the
>> >> boot isn't torn, it ISN'T on the way out. If theres still grease in
>> >the
>> >> joint its very unlikely to fail...
>> >> -Curt
>> >>
>> >>   From: Kyle Arola 
>> >>  To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List <
>> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> >>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:15 AM
>> >>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>> >>
>> >> And my problem with "Good Used" is how do I know who manufactured it?
>> > And
>> >> if I can tell it is a Mercedes axle, it may be on the way out already
>> >and I
>> >> could be doing this job twice...  That would really bum me out!
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:13 AM, Kyle Arola 
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for
>> >the
>> >> home mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool
>> >purchase)
>> >> and see how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I
>> >don't
>> >> trust most shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic
>> >has
>> >> retired Bummer.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks!
>> >> Kyle
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
>> >> Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not
>> >torn
>> >> it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult
>> >quantity,
>> >> what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
>> >> grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
>> >> -Curt
>> >>
>> >>   From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
>> >>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> >> Cc: Kyle Arola 
>> >>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
>> >>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>> >>
>> >> The boots are fine.
>> >>
>> >> It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.
>> >Knocking on
>> >> left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is
>> >fairly
>> >> easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I
>> >did
>> >> pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear
>> >fine,
>> >> tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is
>> >the CV
>> >> joint.  For sure.
>> >>
>> >> Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy
>> >parts
>> >> on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for
>> >me.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks!
>

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

True, I do know the previous owner and have all the receipts!  hahaha!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 12:38 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> There will probably be MB star marks and part numbers in several places.
>
> Ask the previous owner if he ever replaced that axle, and if it was an MB
> axle or aftermarket.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
>
> On January 13, 2017 9:23:48 AM EST, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >I am pretty sure the passenger side is not a MB axle, but I will crawl
> >under there and check.  Where are the stamping? On the shaft? Or
> >someplace
> >else?
> >
> >Kyle
> >
> >On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> >mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> You're missing the point, if its an MB axle (it'll be stamped) and
> >the
> >> boot isn't torn, it ISN'T on the way out. If theres still grease in
> >the
> >> joint its very unlikely to fail...
> >> -Curt
> >>
> >>   From: Kyle Arola 
> >>  To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:15 AM
> >>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> >>
> >> And my problem with "Good Used" is how do I know who manufactured it?
> > And
> >> if I can tell it is a Mercedes axle, it may be on the way out already
> >and I
> >> could be doing this job twice...  That would really bum me out!
> >>
> >> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:13 AM, Kyle Arola 
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for
> >the
> >> home mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool
> >purchase)
> >> and see how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I
> >don't
> >> trust most shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic
> >has
> >> retired Bummer.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> Kyle
> >>
> >> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
> >> Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not
> >torn
> >> it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult
> >quantity,
> >> what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
> >> grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
> >> -Curt
> >>
> >>   From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
> >>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> >> Cc: Kyle Arola 
> >>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
> >>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> >>
> >> The boots are fine.
> >>
> >> It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.
> >Knocking on
> >> left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is
> >fairly
> >> easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I
> >did
> >> pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear
> >fine,
> >> tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is
> >the CV
> >> joint.  For sure.
> >>
> >> Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy
> >parts
> >> on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for
> >me.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >> Kyle
> >>
> >> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com
> >> > wrote:
> >>
> >> > Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool
> >to
> >> > stretch it.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
> >> >  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> >> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> >> > Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
> >> > dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> >> > Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can
> >be
> >> > varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is
> >a
> >> > steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

There will probably be MB star marks and part numbers in several places.

Ask the previous owner if he ever replaced that axle, and if it was an MB axle 
or aftermarket.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On January 13, 2017 9:23:48 AM EST, Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>I am pretty sure the passenger side is not a MB axle, but I will crawl
>under there and check.  Where are the stamping? On the shaft? Or
>someplace
>else?
>
>Kyle
>
>On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> You're missing the point, if its an MB axle (it'll be stamped) and
>the
>> boot isn't torn, it ISN'T on the way out. If theres still grease in
>the
>> joint its very unlikely to fail...
>> -Curt
>>
>>   From: Kyle Arola 
>>  To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:15 AM
>>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>>
>> And my problem with "Good Used" is how do I know who manufactured it?
> And
>> if I can tell it is a Mercedes axle, it may be on the way out already
>and I
>> could be doing this job twice...  That would really bum me out!
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:13 AM, Kyle Arola 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for
>the
>> home mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool
>purchase)
>> and see how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I
>don't
>> trust most shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic
>has
>> retired Bummer.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Kyle
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
>> Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not
>torn
>> it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult
>quantity,
>> what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
>> grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
>> -Curt
>>
>>   From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
>>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Cc: Kyle Arola 
>>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
>>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>>
>> The boots are fine.
>>
>> It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad. 
>Knocking on
>> left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is
>fairly
>> easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I
>did
>> pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear
>fine,
>> tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is
>the CV
>> joint.  For sure.
>>
>> Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy
>parts
>> on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for
>me.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Kyle
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> > Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool
>to
>> > stretch it.
>> >
>> >
>> > Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
>> >  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
>> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
>> > Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
>> > dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>> > Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can
>be
>> > varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is
>a
>> > steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the
>car is
>> > loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would
>indicate
>> > the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to
>change.
>> >
>> > If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
>> > surface, that probably isn't the axle.
>> >
>> > I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or
>rebuild,
>> > unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty
>crappy
>> > reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles
>usually
>> > last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
>> >
>> > -
>> > Max
>> &

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Will do!!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 11:07 AM, MG via Mercedes 
wrote:

> Understood. Remind me tomorrow to ask where you are buying those axles
> from.
>
>
> Manfred
>
> Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> Thanks Manfred, I will not be buying cheap ones from Advanced.  I am going
>> to get a set from a custom shop that does off-road and racing axles as
>> well
>> as MB.
>>
>> I really don't want to do my axles every year and a half.  I drive about
>> 20,000 miles a year and that is not going to go down with this car.  I
>> will
>> pay for great parts.  I don't have a problem with paying for good stuff.
>> I
>> do have a problem with buying crap that is supposed to be good and is not.
>>
>> Kyle
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> Its too bad we don't have Rusty anymore, he used to be able to steer us to
>>> good parts based on the returns he was seeing. He had a cheap axle that
>>> was
>>> "new" manufacture that he claimed were great. I put a set on my '83 240D
>>> and ran 'em 25,000 miles with no issues...
>>> -Curt
>>>
>>>   From: MG via Mercedes 
>>>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>> Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
>>>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:23 AM
>>>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>>>
>>> Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that
>>> have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular).
>>> That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to
>>> change the axle.
>>>
>>> That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them
>>> for a clarification you will find that it will be one
>>> replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.
>>>
>>> Manfred
>>>
>>> Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
>>>
>>>> Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
>>>>
>>>> I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
>>>>
>>>> MB part is over $500.
>>>>
>>>> What to do?
>>>>
>>>> Kyle
>>>> ___
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>>
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>>
>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>
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>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
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>>>
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>>>
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>>
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>>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

Understood. Remind me tomorrow to ask where you are buying those 
axles from.


Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

Thanks Manfred, I will not be buying cheap ones from Advanced.  I am going
to get a set from a custom shop that does off-road and racing axles as well
as MB.

I really don't want to do my axles every year and a half.  I drive about
20,000 miles a year and that is not going to go down with this car.  I will
pay for great parts.  I don't have a problem with paying for good stuff.  I
do have a problem with buying crap that is supposed to be good and is not.

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Its too bad we don't have Rusty anymore, he used to be able to steer us to
good parts based on the returns he was seeing. He had a cheap axle that was
"new" manufacture that he claimed were great. I put a set on my '83 240D
and ran 'em 25,000 miles with no issues...
-Curt

  From: MG via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:23 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that
have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular).
That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to
change the axle.

That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them
for a clarification you will find that it will be one
replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.

Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.

I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.

MB part is over $500.

What to do?

Kyle
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Sure!  But I don't have it yet...  I will probably order them all next week
sometime.

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 11:03 AM, MG via Mercedes 
wrote:

> I may have to borrow that tool from you. I just got the kits for the rear
> axle bearings.
>
> Manfred
>
> Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for the
>> home
>> mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool purchase) and
>> see
>> how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I don't trust most
>> shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic has retired
>> Bummer.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Kyle
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
>>> Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not torn
>>> it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult
>>> quantity,
>>> what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
>>> grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
>>> -Curt
>>>
>>>   From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
>>>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>> Cc: Kyle Arola 
>>>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
>>>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>>>
>>> The boots are fine.
>>>
>>> It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking
>>> on
>>> left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is
>>> fairly
>>> easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
>>> pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear
>>> fine,
>>> tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the
>>> CV
>>> joint.  For sure.
>>>
>>> Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
>>> on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Kyle
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com
>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
>>>> stretch it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
>>>>  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
>>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
>>>> Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
>>>> dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>>>> Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
>>>> varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
>>>> steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
>>>> loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would
>>>> indicate
>>>> the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.
>>>>
>>>> If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
>>>> surface, that probably isn't the axle.
>>>>
>>>> I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
>>>> unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
>>>> reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
>>>> last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
>>>>
>>>> -
>>>> Max
>>>> Charleston SC
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
>>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
>>>>> right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the
>>>>>
>>>> wheel
>>>
>>>> off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ___
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>>
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>>
>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

I may have to borrow that tool from you. I just got the kits for 
the rear axle bearings.


Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for the home
mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool purchase) and see
how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I don't trust most
shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic has retired
Bummer.

Thanks!
Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not torn
it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult quantity,
what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
-Curt

  From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: Kyle Arola 
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

The boots are fine.

It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking on
left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is fairly
easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear fine,
tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the CV
joint.  For sure.

Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.

Thanks!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com

wrote:
Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
stretch it.


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.

If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
surface, that probably isn't the axle.

I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the

wheel

off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.



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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Dan--- via Mercedes]

http://www.cvjaxles.com/

These are the only axles you should buy.  As Drew was the guru for interior 
wood, these guys are the absolute pinnacle of quality for rebuilt MB axles.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

If he abuses you a little thats sort of par for the course...
-Curt

  From: Kyle Arola 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List ; Curt Raymond 
 
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:51 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
   
Will do! Thanks!
On Jan 13, 2017 9:50 AM, "Curt Raymond via Mercedes"  
wrote:

You might ask Jabba (buyeuroparts.com) what he recommends, he's usually got an 
idea what his suppliers are providing.
-Curt

      From: Kyle Arola 
 To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List 

 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:32 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

Thanks Manfred, I will not be buying cheap ones from Advanced.  I am going to 
get a set from a custom shop that does off-road and racing axles as well as MB.

I really don't want to do my axles every year and a half.  I drive about 20,000 
miles a year and that is not going to go down with this car.  I will pay for 
great parts.  I don't have a problem with paying for good stuff.  I do have a 
problem with buying crap that is supposed to be good and is not.

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Its too bad we don't have Rusty anymore, he used to be able to steer us to good 
parts based on the returns he was seeing. He had a cheap axle that was "new" 
manufacture that he claimed were great. I put a set on my '83 240D and ran 'em 
25,000 miles with no issues...
-Curt

      From: MG via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:23 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that
have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular).
That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to
change the axle.

That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them
for a clarification you will find that it will be one
replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.

Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
> Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
>
> I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
>
> MB part is over $500.
>
> What to do?
>
> Kyle
> __ _
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/ archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/ mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.com
>
>

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Will do! Thanks!

On Jan 13, 2017 9:50 AM, "Curt Raymond via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> You might ask Jabba (buyeuroparts.com) what he recommends, he's usually
> got an idea what his suppliers are providing.
> -Curt
>
>   From: Kyle Arola 
>  To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:32 AM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>
> Thanks Manfred, I will not be buying cheap ones from Advanced.  I am going
> to get a set from a custom shop that does off-road and racing axles as well
> as MB.
>
> I really don't want to do my axles every year and a half.  I drive about
> 20,000 miles a year and that is not going to go down with this car.  I will
> pay for great parts.  I don't have a problem with paying for good stuff.  I
> do have a problem with buying crap that is supposed to be good and is not.
>
> Kyle
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> Its too bad we don't have Rusty anymore, he used to be able to steer us to
> good parts based on the returns he was seeing. He had a cheap axle that was
> "new" manufacture that he claimed were great. I put a set on my '83 240D
> and ran 'em 25,000 miles with no issues...
> -Curt
>
>   From: MG via Mercedes 
>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:23 AM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>
> Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that
> have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular).
> That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to
> change the axle.
>
> That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them
> for a clarification you will find that it will be one
> replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.
>
> Manfred
>
> Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
> > Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
> >
> > I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
> >
> > MB part is over $500.
> >
> > What to do?
> >
> > Kyle
> > __ _
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/ archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/ mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>
> __ _
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>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/ archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/ mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.com
>
>
>
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

You might ask Jabba (buyeuroparts.com) what he recommends, he's usually got an 
idea what his suppliers are providing.
-Curt

  From: Kyle Arola 
 To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List 
 
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:32 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
   
Thanks Manfred, I will not be buying cheap ones from Advanced.  I am going to 
get a set from a custom shop that does off-road and racing axles as well as MB.

I really don't want to do my axles every year and a half.  I drive about 20,000 
miles a year and that is not going to go down with this car.  I will pay for 
great parts.  I don't have a problem with paying for good stuff.  I do have a 
problem with buying crap that is supposed to be good and is not.

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Its too bad we don't have Rusty anymore, he used to be able to steer us to good 
parts based on the returns he was seeing. He had a cheap axle that was "new" 
manufacture that he claimed were great. I put a set on my '83 240D and ran 'em 
25,000 miles with no issues...
-Curt

      From: MG via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:23 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that
have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular).
That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to
change the axle.

That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them
for a clarification you will find that it will be one
replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.

Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
> Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
>
> I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
>
> MB part is over $500.
>
> What to do?
>
> Kyle
> __ _
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/ archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/ mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ okiebenz.com
>
>

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

Thanks Manfred, I will not be buying cheap ones from Advanced.  I am going
to get a set from a custom shop that does off-road and racing axles as well
as MB.

I really don't want to do my axles every year and a half.  I drive about
20,000 miles a year and that is not going to go down with this car.  I will
pay for great parts.  I don't have a problem with paying for good stuff.  I
do have a problem with buying crap that is supposed to be good and is not.

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Its too bad we don't have Rusty anymore, he used to be able to steer us to
> good parts based on the returns he was seeing. He had a cheap axle that was
> "new" manufacture that he claimed were great. I put a set on my '83 240D
> and ran 'em 25,000 miles with no issues...
> -Curt
>
>   From: MG via Mercedes 
>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:23 AM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>
> Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that
> have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular).
> That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to
> change the axle.
>
> That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them
> for a clarification you will find that it will be one
> replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.
>
> Manfred
>
> Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
> > Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
> >
> > I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
> >
> > MB part is over $500.
> >
> > What to do?
> >
> > Kyle
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Its too bad we don't have Rusty anymore, he used to be able to steer us to good 
parts based on the returns he was seeing. He had a cheap axle that was "new" 
manufacture that he claimed were great. I put a set on my '83 240D and ran 'em 
25,000 miles with no issues...
-Curt

  From: MG via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Cc: trainpain2...@aol.com
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:23 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
   
Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that 
have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular). 
That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to 
change the axle.

That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them 
for a clarification you will find that it will be one 
replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.

Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:
> Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
> 
> I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
> 
> MB part is over $500.
> 
> What to do?
> 
> Kyle
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[MG via Mercedes]

Which ever ones you get make sure they are the later kind that 
have the bolt on CV joint on the differential end (canannular). 
That way you won't ever have to open the differential again to 
change the axle.


That "lifetime isn't all it's cracked up to be. If you ask them 
for a clarification you will find that it will be one 
replacement. At least that's what it was the last time I asked.


Manfred

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.

I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.

MB part is over $500.

What to do?

Kyle
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

I am pretty sure the passenger side is not a MB axle, but I will crawl
under there and check.  Where are the stamping? On the shaft? Or someplace
else?

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> You're missing the point, if its an MB axle (it'll be stamped) and the
> boot isn't torn, it ISN'T on the way out. If theres still grease in the
> joint its very unlikely to fail...
> -Curt
>
>   From: Kyle Arola 
>  To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:15 AM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>
> And my problem with "Good Used" is how do I know who manufactured it?  And
> if I can tell it is a Mercedes axle, it may be on the way out already and I
> could be doing this job twice...  That would really bum me out!
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:13 AM, Kyle Arola 
> wrote:
>
> I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for the
> home mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool purchase)
> and see how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I don't
> trust most shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic has
> retired Bummer.
>
> Thanks!
> Kyle
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
> Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not torn
> it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult quantity,
> what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
> grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
> -Curt
>
>   From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Cc: Kyle Arola 
>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>
> The boots are fine.
>
> It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking on
> left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is fairly
> easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
> pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear fine,
> tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the CV
> joint.  For sure.
>
> Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
> on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kyle
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com
> > wrote:
>
> > Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
> > stretch it.
> >
> >
> > Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
> >  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> > Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
> > dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> > Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
> > varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
> > steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
> > loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
> > the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.
> >
> > If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
> > surface, that probably isn't the axle.
> >
> > I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
> > unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
> > reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
> > last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
> >
> > -
> > Max
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
> > > right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the
> wheel
> > > off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
> > >
> > >
> > __ _
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archiv e/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailm an/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz. com
> >
> > _

Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

You're missing the point, if its an MB axle (it'll be stamped) and the boot 
isn't torn, it ISN'T on the way out. If theres still grease in the joint its 
very unlikely to fail...
-Curt

  From: Kyle Arola 
 To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List 
 
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:15 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
   
And my problem with "Good Used" is how do I know who manufactured it?  And if I 
can tell it is a Mercedes axle, it may be on the way out already and I could be 
doing this job twice...  That would really bum me out!

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:13 AM, Kyle Arola  wrote:

I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for the home 
mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool purchase) and see how 
far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I don't trust most shops to 
care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic has retired Bummer.

Thanks!
Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not torn it'll 
last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult quantity, what did 
they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new grease or new 
boot, new balls, new grease...
-Curt

      From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: Kyle Arola 
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

The boots are fine.

It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking on
left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is fairly
easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear fine,
tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the CV
joint.  For sure.

Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.

Thanks!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes  wrote:

> Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
> stretch it.
>
>
> Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
>  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
> dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
> varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
> steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
> loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
> the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.
>
> If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
> surface, that probably isn't the axle.
>
> I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
> unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
> reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
> last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
>
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
> > right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the wheel
> > off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
> >
> >
> __ _
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archiv e/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailm an/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz. com
>
> __ _
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archiv e/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailm an/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz. com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

And my problem with "Good Used" is how do I know who manufactured it?  And
if I can tell it is a Mercedes axle, it may be on the way out already and I
could be doing this job twice...  That would really bum me out!

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:13 AM, Kyle Arola  wrote:

> I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for the
> home mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool purchase)
> and see how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I don't
> trust most shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic has
> retired Bummer.
>
> Thanks!
> Kyle
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
>> Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not torn
>> it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult quantity,
>> what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
>> grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
>> -Curt
>>
>>   From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
>>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Cc: Kyle Arola 
>>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
>>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>>
>> The boots are fine.
>>
>> It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking on
>> left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is
>> fairly
>> easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
>> pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear fine,
>> tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the CV
>> joint.  For sure.
>>
>> Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
>> on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Kyle
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> > Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
>> > stretch it.
>> >
>> >
>> > Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
>> >  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
>> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
>> > Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
>> > dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>> > Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
>> > varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
>> > steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
>> > loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would
>> indicate
>> > the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.
>> >
>> > If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
>> > surface, that probably isn't the axle.
>> >
>> > I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
>> > unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
>> > reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
>> > last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
>> >
>> > -
>> > Max
>> > Charleston SC
>> >
>> > On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
>> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > > I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
>> > > right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the
>> wheel
>> > > off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >
>> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >
>> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> >
>> >
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

I have read that the rear bearings can be difficult/impossible for the home
mechanic, but I will attempt them (after the special tool purchase) and see
how far I get.  I would prefer to do the work myself as I don't trust most
shops to care as much as I do, and my favorite mechanic has retired
Bummer.

Thanks!
Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:06 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
> Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not torn
> it'll last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult quantity,
> what did they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new
> grease or new boot, new balls, new grease...
> -Curt
>
>   From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
>  To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Cc: Kyle Arola 
>  Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
>
> The boots are fine.
>
> It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking on
> left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is fairly
> easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
> pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear fine,
> tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the CV
> joint.  For sure.
>
> Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
> on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kyle
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com
> > wrote:
>
> > Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
> > stretch it.
> >
> >
> > Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
> >  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> > Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
> > dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> > Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
> > varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
> > steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
> > loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
> > the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.
> >
> > If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
> > surface, that probably isn't the axle.
> >
> > I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
> > unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
> > reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
> > last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
> >
> > -
> > Max
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
> > > right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the
> wheel
> > > off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
> > >
> > >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Rear wheel bearings are a big job, fronts are simple.
Good used is your best bet, inspect the boot carefully, if its not torn it'll 
last thousands of miles. A "quality" rebuilt is a difficult quantity, what did 
they rebuild? I bet most of them are just a new boot and new grease or new 
boot, new balls, new grease...
-Curt

  From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Cc: Kyle Arola 
 Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:02 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
   
The boots are fine.

It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking on
left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is fairly
easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear fine,
tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the CV
joint.  For sure.

Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.

Thanks!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes  wrote:

> Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
> stretch it.
>
>
> Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
>  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
> dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
> varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
> steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
> loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
> the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.
>
> If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
> surface, that probably isn't the axle.
>
> I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
> unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
> reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
> last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
>
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
> > right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the wheel
> > off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
> >
> >
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

The boots are fine.

It is the CV joint where it enters the hub that is going bad.  Knocking on
left turns at speed currently from the right rear wheel area.  It is fairly
easy to check the joint and I have done so and it needs a new one.  I did
pull the wheel off and checked the bearings and such and they appear fine,
tho I will most likely replace them as well just to be safe.  It is the CV
joint.  For sure.

Since this is my daily driver I am not interested in putting crappy parts
on it.  I will get with a quality rebuilder and have a set done for me.

Thanks!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM, tyee165 via Mercedes  wrote:

> Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to
> stretch it.
>
>
> Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
>  Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To:
> Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon <
> dillonm...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice
> Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
> varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
> steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
> loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
> the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.
>
> If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
> surface, that probably isn't the axle.
>
> I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
> unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
> reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
> last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.
>
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
> > right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the wheel
> > off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[tyee165 via Mercedes]

Isn't there a replacement boot Available? I recall a special tool to stretch it.


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 Date: 2017-01-13  6:50 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: Mercedes 
Discussion List  Cc: Meade Dillon  
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice 
Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.

If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
surface, that probably isn't the axle.

I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
> right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the wheel
> off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[tyee165 via Mercedes]

Does it need Them? If not, why replace them?


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Kyle Arola via Mercedes 
 Date: 2017-01-13  6:00 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: Mercedes 
Discussion List  Cc: Kyle Arola 
 Subject: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice 
Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.

I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.

MB part is over $500.

What to do?

Kyle
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Can you describe the knocking?  The classic failing-axle-knock can be
varied by weaving back and forth at highway speed (assuming this is a
steady noise, not intermittent).  When you weave to the right the car is
loading up the left side axle, and so an increase in noise would indicate
the left side axle is going bad, so that would be the axle to change.

If you simply are getting a knock due to irregularities in the road
surface, that probably isn't the axle.

I would always get a good used original axle over a "new" or rebuild,
unless it was from the MB dealer.  Everything else has a pretty crappy
reputation.  As long as the boots don't fail, the original axles usually
last hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
> right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the wheel
> off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Kyle Arola via Mercedes]

I promise I am not just replacing just to replace them... hahaha!  The
right side of the car is beginning to knock a bit and I pulled the wheel
off yesterday to verify that is what is making the noise.

The right side is a 2 piece and I noticed that I could not easily google
one that was Hence my question.  I would prefer new as a used axle may
fail anytime and I dont want to make a habit of this.  At least with new I
feel that I have a fighting chance.  I think Advance Auto has one with a
lifetime warranty on it.  Pretty good deal if you plan on driving a million
miles!

Kyle

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:34 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Why are you replacing them?  Unless the boots are leaking, or there is some
> other indication that they are failing, I would not replace them.  The
> chinee axles have a terrible reputation, although some say the quality has
> improved in recent years.
>
> If a boot has failed or they are making noise, then the best choice is a
> good used original MB axle.  That is what I have done in the past.
>
> There are two types:  Homokinetic (single piece axle) and Can-annular (two
> piece axle).  Later axles are usually the two piece, so that is probably
> what you have on your car. Two piece are easier to change (you don't have
> to open up the differential).  It is permissible to mix/match the sides,
> putting a two-piece on one side of the car and single-piece on the other
> side).
>
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
> On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:00 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
> >
> > I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
> >
> > MB part is over $500.
> >
> > What to do?
> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Best Axle Choice

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Why are you replacing them?  Unless the boots are leaking, or there is some
other indication that they are failing, I would not replace them.  The
chinee axles have a terrible reputation, although some say the quality has
improved in recent years.

If a boot has failed or they are making noise, then the best choice is a
good used original MB axle.  That is what I have done in the past.

There are two types:  Homokinetic (single piece axle) and Can-annular (two
piece axle).  Later axles are usually the two piece, so that is probably
what you have on your car. Two piece are easier to change (you don't have
to open up the differential).  It is permissible to mix/match the sides,
putting a two-piece on one side of the car and single-piece on the other
side).

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 7:00 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Going to replace the axles on Bella, the 1985 Wagon.
>
> I see the average price is right around $95-$130. Chinese parts.
>
> MB part is over $500.
>
> What to do?
>
>
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