I'm using network time that my Raspberry Pi re-acquires roughly every 20
minutes, with a DS3232 for backup when the internet is down. I need to
tweak the software a bit more to automatically update the DS3232; right now
I have to use my debug utility to manually update it. But this does allow
Note the similarity of the construction to a traditional CRT.
Now I have to figure where I will find the space for a 6-tube clock when
these monsters become available.
On Friday, September 3, 2021 at 7:54:38 AM UTC-7 Robert wrote:
> I think he made about 600
>
> Rob
>
> On 3 Sep 2021, at
In our house, a clock is the only way to show-off nixie tubes in a way that
everyone will understand. A frequency-counter or voltmeter just gets some
curious looks.
On Tuesday, August 31, 2021 at 1:18:06 PM UTC-7 Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> Just read this and found it fascinating!
>
>
>
The amount of ringing is usually load-dependent, and is primarily caused by
the transformer being non-ideal. Changing the coupling factor from 0.99 to
0.95 should make quite a difference in the ringing. That wont necessarily
reflect reality, but it does show you the effect it has. Also, it
Nixie collectors are also known for acquiring other novelties from that
era, so when the time comes to tell the story, please pass along any info
on not-necessarily-nixie items that were part of the estate. I'm glad this
collection didn't get into the hands of someone who simply wants to
Transformers are not ideal, so even with zero load, they consume inductive
current. Most of the energy gets returned to the AC line, but some of it
gets dissipated as heat (winding resistance, and hysteresis). This is why
unloaded wall transformers still get slightly warm.
You can measure the
I used a 2.5VAC transformer for my NIMO clock, and use series dropping
resistors to get the correct current. Those filaments run at 1.1 VAC and
200mA. Using AC cancels-out the brightness quirks when using DC. The series
resistor will reduce the power-on current surge and therefore extend the
RPM, Speed, outside temp, odometer, engine temp, and oil pressure ?
Quite a feat keeping a corvair alive after all these years; it's been a
long time since I saw one on the street.
Isn't the corvair air-cooled ?
I got rid of my last carbureted vehicle 30 years ago, and I dont miss
changing
"Abandon all hope ye who enter here"...it's too late to turn back;
nixie tubes are not only addictive, but they are known to cause other
addictions.
On Thursday, August 5, 2021 at 6:57:47 AM UTC-7 Keith Moore wrote:
> Welcome! This place is my fave read of the day each day! :-)
>
> On
were out of sight. Here's some pics
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, August 1, 2021 at 10:35:29 AM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> Would love to hear the story behind this equipment, and any interior or
>>>
gt;
>> On Wednesday, 28 July 2021 at 00:49:12 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> I wonder if red-coated nixies were an attempt to entice manufacturers
>>> from switching to 7-segment LEDs, which were mostly red at that time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
I wonder if red-coated nixies were an attempt to entice manufacturers from
switching to 7-segment LEDs, which were mostly red at that time.
On Monday, July 26, 2021 at 4:28:16 PM UTC-7 Pramanicin wrote:
> I did something similar with some B7971 tubes (and a lot of other smaller
> ones). I
nday, July 25, 2021 at 4:59:37 PM UTC-7 MichaelB wrote:
> i could not agree with you more!
>
> On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 4:55:13 PM UTC-7 nickja...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> But they are beautiful!
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 11:48 AM gregebert wrote:
>>
>>
Just to be safe, I suggest you measure the voltage drop across the anode
resistor, and use Ohm's law to compute the current. For an 8.2K anode
resistor, and a current of 6mA, the voltage-drop should be around 50V. If
the voltage is below 40 volts, your anode current is too low because it's
I came across a different version that used a 7-segment electroluminescent
display. It was sold for surplus because the display was too dim to read;
those E-L panels were very cool looking, but they didn't last long.
Another oddity on a different model was the case. This device was intended
Anyone notice the flexible shaft from one of the front panel controls ?? I
never could figure out why they did this. Maybe they found a manufacturing
issue and did not want to re-manufacture a new set of front panels ??
On Sunday, July 18, 2021 at 8:16:44 PM UTC-7 martin martin wrote:
> One
It is gaining time, or losing time ?
If it's losing time, could it be caused by execution delays in your
software ? I've seen some really bizarre things happening with my Raspberry
Pi based clocks because of the chaotic behavior of Linux, and I have even
seen metastability-related failures due
Sins of the past are here to haunt me.I personally junked at least 3 of
those about 40 years ago, and have a few parts remaining. I am truly amazed
you could get this thing to work. Well done !!!
If you could post an interior photo showing all of the vacuum tubes inside,
I'm sure some of
e tubes are expensive and the finite supply is
rapidly shrinking.
On Thursday, July 15, 2021 at 1:33:49 AM UTC-7 ZY wrote:
>
> Ooops, sorry Gregebert, I'm not experienced with google groups and I
> didn't know the difference between reply to group vs. reply to author.
>
> I'm going
If you use 1 decoder for 6 tubes, the duty-cycle is 1/6 and it will require
more current to get the same brightness as a tube with a higher duty-cycle.
So, if you use 2 decoders, the duty-cycle is 1/3 and the peak current will
be less vs 1/6 duty cycle.
Personally, I never multiplex tubes
Well, mine arrived today nicely packaged, with no instructions. I'm glad
the version I bought already had the PCB assembled. The basic assembly went
OK, though I had to disassemble and reassemble when I found a baseplate
piece was backward. Also, make sure you install the battery BEFORE you
If it wasn't for the label, I'd swear it was an HP...
On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 8:07:51 PM UTC-7 martin martin wrote:
> Here's an "okay" deal on a nice counter. Decorated with notes...
>
>
>
> As some of you know, I am fond of vintage coin slot amusement machines
I hope you've been able to visit Tim Hunkin's creations. He provides some
clips of them on his youtube videos (secret life of components). No idea
when I'll ever be in the UK again, but I'll be sure to visit Novelty
If you are looking for longer life, I dont think the gas mixture will make
a big difference. The quality of the glass seal is the most important
thing, and I suggest using kovar wire for your leads as it was formulated
to seal with glass. Second, you will need a good vacuum and need to
The well-known Penning mixture is 0.5 to 2.0% Argon, and that seems to fit
with your graphs. Mixing this on your own into the tube itself could be
challenging due to the small fraction of Ar; You might be able to find it
pre-mixed, or otherwise try to mix K4 with neon on your own in a separate
I'm hoping Dalibor will make his "H tube" available for sale when it's
production-worthy.
On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 4:29:38 AM UTC-7 Robert G. Schaffrath wrote:
> I noticed the upward trend in early fall of 2019. I had just gotten back
> into Nixie's so I figured I had better jump and I
Would it be possible to 3D-print the rear section of the pushbutton, then
glue the engraved cover onto it ?
On Thursday, June 10, 2021 at 6:05:41 PM UTC-7 Terry Bowman wrote:
>
> On Jun 10, 2021, at 7:02 AM, Bill Notfaded wrote:
>
> Nope Terry I didn't buy that one and didn't pay that much but
I took the bait today and bought the version with the assembled PCB. Total
cost is $38.11 US including shipping. I cant even procure the individual
parts for that price. I'm pretty sure the DS3231 is fake, so it's still a
bargain even if I have to replace it .
On Sunday, January 17, 2021 at
Similar story for me. I bought an FM signal generator from a friend back in
1975 because it had nixies and very cool illuminated switches. Kept the
freq counter for a few years, junked it for the nixies, and they sat in my
junkbox for about 30 years. Then in 2011, I finally built my first nixie
very night but that still doesn't work 100% on the static
digits.
On Tuesday, June 8, 2021 at 8:52:42 AM UTC-7 Bill Notfaded wrote:
> Thanks Greg. The datasheet says peak max is 7.5mA, Avg. max 7mA, Avg. min
> 4mA.
>
> Bill
>
> On Tuesday, June 8, 2021 at 8:36:11 AM UTC-7 gregebert wr
The most important thing to do is limit the current to the correct range,
regardless of whatever value you have for the anode supply or resistor. I
hope you can find a few more of these rare gems.
On Tuesday, June 8, 2021 at 8:26:13 AM UTC-7 artgod...@googlemail.com wrote:
> Electrophoresis
I used the LT3561 to provide the 3.3V logic supply from the battery (3.7 to
4.1V Li-ion), and it's standby leakage is practically zero. All I know is
the leakage current of this regulator, plus the operating current of the
DS3232 RTC and leakage of the HV driver, makes a very slight movement of
As far as I know, in order to give bandwidth on your local network to a
neighbor's device, it would require your neighbor's device to obtain
access credentials to your network. Despite promises of security, etc, I
still feel this is a high-risk, and I certainly would not want that prying
into
As long as Raspberry Pi's dont get that kind of malware added, I'm pretty
safe.
On Sunday, May 30, 2021 at 8:29:30 AM UTC-7 Pramanicin wrote:
> What could possibly go wrong???
>
> /s
>
> No google or amazon connected devices here...
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 30, 2021, at 08:13, Toby
Interesting. Anodes and cathodes are biased to 80V. Also, note that the
segment drivers use current-limiting (emitter resistors).
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 8:48:50 PM UTC-7 Richard Scales wrote:
> OK, I think I'm homing in on a solution.
>
> Assuming that I go with HV513 for high and low
25, 2021 at 4:19:35 PM UTC-7 Bill Stanley wrote:
> Greg,
> Would you mind listing the current limiting parts you use for both the
> PMOS high side and the NPN low side drivers?
> Thanks;
> -Bill-
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 3:54:18 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>
I'm attempting my first multiplexed nixie project, in this case a
13-character / 9-segment display. Direct-drive is always my preference, but
that is not an option due to the way the display is pinned-out.
I'm using an FPGA to control the multiplexing, so I've put a lot of
UPDATE 2: Both boards are complete, everything connected together. I was
unable to get a visible trace on the CRT. Voltages seem correct, but for
some reason the fuse protecting the filament blew out. Filament did not
blow as confirmed by continuity. I need to investigate further, and will
ary indeed :-)
> I almost don't dare to ask... does it have a fuse?
>
>
> gregebert schrieb am Samstag, 22. Mai 2021 um 19:27:51 UTC+2:
>
>> My first nixie clock uses 4000-series CMOS, and is AC-line powered. Not
>> just the power ( *without* a transformer), but also the
My first nixie clock uses 4000-series CMOS, and is AC-line powered. Not
just the power ( *without* a transformer), but also the timing. There is a
battery-backup oscillator. I built 2 in 2011, and our 2 kids each built
one. All 4 are still running just fine. They can display 12hr or 24-hour
t;> the comments closely.
>>
>> -Bill-
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 5:14:24 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> I have an Aneng UT61e; cheap but quite good. One of my scopes has a pair
>>> of 100x probes that lets me look at a few kV,
at 4:10:55 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
> Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't directly
> connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for 1KV.
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>
>> UPDATE 1: I built th
UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some basic
testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the diff-amp
that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV supply can
be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the inverter
60V on the indicator bulb (NL1) indicates the transformer is being driven,
but you cant tell if the HV is high enough; can you measure VCC_300 to see
if it's in the ballpark ?
Can you scope-out pins 1 & 2 of the transformer to see what kind of
waveform is present for the filament supply ?
My kit arrived today WITHOUT instructions. Damn! If anyone has an
electronic copy, please let me know. I'm contacting the seller. Nothing I
could find on their website. But at least I dont have to worry about the
CRT connections because they prewired it for me.
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at
What speed are you running the dekatrons ?
On Sunday, May 16, 2021 at 10:57:30 AM UTC-7 iavine wrote:
> That is a cool design
>
> On 16 May 2021, at 17:10, Jon wrote:
>
>
>
> The discussion in a recent thread about different glow patterns on a
> dekatron reminds me that it’s high time I
Having your hand in the picture really helps to show how big that tube is.
No wonder the brand name is Rodan, reminiscent of the Japanese sci-fi movie
monsters.
On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 2:51:36 PM UTC-7 tntm...@gmail.com wrote:
> My uneducated guess as to the purpose would be similar to the
Most likely, the error is in the text description in the instruction
manual. From the datasheet, pin 9 is the multi-anode connection, and pin 5
is the single anode. I am more likely to follow the connections to specific
pin numbers in the instructions, rather than the text-description. Pin 9 is
Most likely a time-lapse exposure with each of the 10 cathodes sequentially
grounded, and the 2 steering cathodes floating.
Though I've never tried it, you might be able to get multiple parallel
cathodes to light simultaneously. I doubt they would glow this uniformly,
but you never know until
Burroughs made a 9-segment display that allows most text characters to be
displayed, though some are a bit crude like Q, V, X, Z
On Thursday, May 6, 2021 at 6:41:51 AM UTC-7 Richard Scales wrote:
> @Dekatron42 - that is interesting - it looks like I may be deviating from
> the standard! I
ing info...
>>
>> On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 2:29 PM Tom Harris wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the ideas but it was definitely static with the pulses just
>>> used to turn the lamps on or off. After that they would keep their state
>>> indefinitely.
>>>
>>>
If it was pulsed-DC, then it probably was simple multiplexing.
I have thought about doing it with AC, which makes the driver more complex,
but it will make the bulbs last longer since both electrodes will be
illuminated (alternately, of course). Not sinusoidal AC, but square-waves.
If you do
Reliability is paramount in a contraption like this. Quite a nightmare to
debug and repair.
On Saturday, May 1, 2021 at 11:17:19 AM UTC-7 Terry Bowman wrote:
>
> On May 1, 2021, at 1:11 PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
>
> Mohit makes some lovely looking electronic 'sculptures'I'd take a
> crack
Thanks for the tip; I just bought one. I'll post an update + video after I
get it and build it.
On Wednesday, April 28, 2021 at 9:56:00 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote:
> There's another 4 of the 8SJ31J kits listed at
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265139148431 , I've ordered one on the
> offchance
;> prices they are going at he could likely make them for a cheaper/similar
>>> price, which would be good for supply and for his business.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 12:56 AM Kevin A.
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> At this rate Dalibor ought to think
;>> long term it is dead on 50Hz so synchronous clocks stay accurate.
>>>
>>> The DS3232 is a fantastic chip and my choice also for clocks not linked
>>> to NTP or GPS.
>>>
>>> Grahame
>>>
>>>
>>> On 19/04/2021 21:05, g
Ouch!
[image: ScreenHunter_30 Apr. 26 21.14.jpg]
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:43:38 PM UTC-7 M1 wrote:
> Nice to see (or not) tubes going for $300 each lately.
>
>
>
> A chance at 7 of them.
>
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/294131943326
>
>
>
> Michail
>
>
>
--
You received this
Stepper relays are likely to be a problem. The first clock I made, back in
1980, was a cannibalized voltmeter that used stepper relays and
incandescent edge-lit numbers. The relays had intermittent connection
issues despite many careful attempts to clean them. I literally abandoned
this clock
The DS3232 has an internal crystal, with periodic temperature compensation
(every 100 seconds). There are also non-volatile trim registers that allow
you to fine-tune the trimming even further, though I have not needed to do
that.
You wont be able to use a scope to fine-tune the crystal
Grahame - Have you been able to detect any drift/inaccuracy of the Rubidium
timebase ? I would imagine that even comparing to GPS it would take months,
and perhaps years, to notice any drift.
I was really surprised to see that a DS3232 in one of my devices worked out
to be 6e-7 after 6 years.
I highly recommend a DS3232; it's very accurate, has the internal crystal,
and requires very little power.
My nixie watch debug board has been sitting in the garage and has not been
adjusted since March 2015 and it's gained less than 2 minutes after 6
years. Another interesting fact is the
I'm guessing this nixie tube was used in equipment for monitoring
impurities in a steel plant.
On Wednesday, April 14, 2021 at 6:46:55 PM UTC-7 严泽远 wrote:
> This one marked QS30-75, but I think it's the same one with QS30-7A:
>
> [image: IMG_7739.JPG][image: IMG_7730.JPG][image:
Martin - Have you tried measuring the resistance of the pin's corrosion ?
Scrape-away the corrosion at one and of the pin, and try measuring at the
opposite end with minimum pressure. Might need an analog meter, or at least
disable autoranging on a DMM.
I've only seen corrosion on IN-18's and
VCRs and older game consoles (like the original XBOX) will provide NTSC via
their AV output. Some of the newer TVs dont even have composite video
jacks, so the standard is rapidly dying.
Too bad, because studio-quality NTSC is actually very crisp; it's the
transmission medium and receivers
At least it's just monochrome. NTSC composite video with color is rather
complex, though I must say it is also ingenious in that it is
backward-compatible to monochrome and packs so much video information into
a 3.58Mhz bandwidth. Similar for PAL, though higher bandwidth.
On Sunday, April 11,
If the loop-gain is sufficiently low, any non-linearities at the output
will get self-corrected (because of the negative feedback) *at
low-frequency*. If the signal frequency is high-enough, or if there is
low-bandwidth in the feedback network, then the output will definitely
behave
All those photos, and no sign it's been tested not to mention if it even
works. I didn't see a guarantee, either.
On Monday, April 5, 2021 at 12:57:12 PM UTC-7 MichaelB wrote:
>
>
>
>
An op-amp is a high-gain amplifier, so if both inputs are tied to the same
voltage, then noise will amplified thru the op-amp and cause the output to
jump around. As others have said, this can lead to oscillation. Noise is
not just what is present at the inputs; it's also inherent in the op-amp
Very interesting; thanks for posting.
You might want to try successive numbers of lit cathodes, say 01, then 012,
then 0123, etc and see how the current increases, and also see if it
changes over time due to heating.
I dont recall seeing this behavior with segmented tubes, like the 7971. In
I purchased a case of 1000 green neon bulbs several years ago; the shipping
charges were about 90 USD and the bulbs around 60USD which worked to about
15 cents each. I didn't need all of them so I sold a few lots to folks in
this group to help offset some of the cost.
On Sunday, March 28, 2021
There's a "highly technical" term that I use for those PCB allowances for
the filling nib: They are glassholes
On Saturday, March 27, 2021 at 5:40:26 AM UTC-7 jrehwin wrote:
> > Ignoring the physical dimensions,
>
> I will point out that if you plan to use in-board pin connectors, you'll
>
I've always felt that the two critical parameters for neon displays of any
kind are the operating current and the striking-voltage. Whatever voltage
you get across the tube/bulb when it's operating at the proper current is
not important. Basically, "it is what it is". This is why I use
Already gonesomeone paid a whopping 3500 USD for it. That's what I call
an addict.
On Friday, March 19, 2021 at 1:45:15 AM UTC-7 fax_awd wrote:
> off topic btw...CD47 on ebay right now..
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/193974592019
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the
I was surprised at the price of 129 USD. If my backlog of projects was
months instead of years, I would buy one and see how durable it is.
On Thursday, March 18, 2021 at 12:55:48 AM UTC-7 Roman H. wrote:
> I've ordered one ZIN-70 Tube two days ago. You can choose, which special
> character you
A cheap supply is fine for testing, but I would use a custom-designed
supply with all sorts of safety features to operate these priceless tubes.
On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 11:03:10 AM UTC-7 martin martin wrote:
> I use this one-
>
>
and I've always wondered how many nixie tubes ended-up in landfills.
On Monday, March 15, 2021 at 10:42:37 AM UTC-7 Robert wrote:
> How many of these were made, approx?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
To
-03 11:55 a.m., gregebert wrote:
> > I use the connector pins frequently listed on Ebay as nixie tube socket
> > pins, then 3D-print a collar. They have low insertion force and work on
> > a wide range of tubes (IN-18, NIMO, b7971, R|Z568m, 5092, and probably
> > many others)
I use the connector pins frequently listed on Ebay as nixie tube socket
pins, then 3D-print a collar. They have low insertion force and work on a
wide range of tubes (IN-18, NIMO, b7971, R|Z568m, 5092, and probably many
others).
My first 2 nixie projects used ceramic sockets, and they have a
*Martin* - Do you know how long dekatrons last ? I have an A-101 running as
a spinner in one of my clocks, and it's been going 60RPM 24/7 for almost 8
years with no signs of degradation. I use 30k dropping resistors at the
cathodes, and the current is right at the spec value of 450uA, so that
> am using the first (worst) tube. Touching the glass has no effect.
>>>>>>>>>> Apparently the tube does not like half wave. Perhaps it was my
>>>>>>>>>> 1N4007 diode? They can switch too fast and maybe it needed a snubber.
>>>>>&
ata sheet shows the following which I'm inclined to believe. I will
> try Ck directly on the pins tomorrow. Someone must have tried this circuit.
> [image: 8453 Cct.JPG]
>
> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 11:12 PM gregebert wrote:
>
>> I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-l
I suspect the differential voltage between lit vs non-lit numerals is too
low. The CMOS device is basically driving grids to determine which cathode
will be illuminated. I've seen similar behavior with an A-101 dekatron.
What voltage are you using for VDD ? Is it 8V as indicated on the
Before delving into expensive replacement, have you done enough
troubleshooting to confirm the driver IC is bad ? Those devices are pretty
robust, and because they are bipolar (not CMOS), they are not susceptible
to ESD damage. You would have to have a rather disastrous event to zap the
If the USB device is powered thru the USB connector, you probably could get
away with tying the shield to the circuit ground. But if the USB device has
it's own supply, you definitely want resistance between the shield and
circuit ground to prevent ground-loop currents, which cause noise
Be warned that magic-eye tubes, such as the 6E5, have a rather short
lifespan, so make sure you power them down when not in-use and keep the
brightness as low as tolerable. They are pretty easy to use; I suggest you
use a DAC under software-control to drive the grid.
On Thursday, February 4,
I've dissected quite a few TV's in past years, and the deflection yoke has
a rather complex winding pattern, where the windings are closer together at
the neck, and spread outward around the funnel-area of the tube. If I
recall, there are 4 coils at 90-degree intervals, and the top/bottom coils
I'm contemplating the HV57009 for my upcoming VFD clocks; it requires a
negative supply so that presents some challenges but a single device can
drive 64 segments at 2mA each.
On Saturday, January 30, 2021 at 9:48:06 AM UTC-8 bung...@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks Davis; I think I have a solution
Wiggling the tube should confirm a poor solder connection.
On Friday, January 29, 2021 at 1:09:16 PM UTC-8 Kevin A. wrote:
> Just because there "is" solder doesn't mean that you don't have a cold
> solder joint. This board appears to be poorly soldered just from this one
> photo. Each through
I hope you attach a small anchor to the wall near the top of the clock. It
would be a horrible tragedy if this got tipped-over.
In our house, it would be a matter of minutes before the dogs knocked it
over.
On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 6:24:14 AM UTC-8 newxito wrote:
> Finally, I got the
Despite it's "ugliness", the 7971 does support alphanumeric characters
whereas the 568m does not. That, along with their massive size, is why I
made a clock out of them a few years ago, thankfully when those tubes were
cheaper.
As far as beauty is concerned though, the 568m tubes are stellar.
Despite it's "ugliness", the 7971 does support alphanumeric characters
whereas the 568m does not. That, along with their massive size, is why I
made a clock out of them a few years ago, thankfully when those tubes were
cheaper.
As far as beauty is concerned though, the 568m tubes are stellar.
Interesting notes from the seller, mentions slight ghosting. The clock-chip
does the multiplexing, though it was probably intended for LEDs which dont
have requirements for blanking time.
The PC board is typical of consumer products: single-sided phenolic. Even
do-it-yourself PCB kits used
>From my Radio Shack education back in the early 1970's..NE-2 bulbs
required 220K when running off 120VAC line and used 1/25 watt. NE-2H
(high-brightness) used a 22K resistor and used 1/4 watt.
-
Have you checked/replaced the electrolytic caps ? I've had one fail as a
short-circuit; coincidentally, that was in a Heathkit but it was a scope
calibrator.
On Monday, January 18, 2021 at 7:01:09 PM UTC-8 martin martin wrote:
> Hi have the same 6 digit Heathkit. I do have the complete
At 60 Hz, a 0.27uF capacitor has 10K ohms of impedance. You would need to
use a non-polarized cap that can handle the ripple current, something under
12mA.
I cant vouch for how well that will work; it's a non-linear circuit so the
capacitor is not exposed to a steady sinusoidal waveform, so
And these were also non-illuminated as well. In the early 1960's, my father
swapped-out a few non-illuminated switches with the neon bulb version.
Several years later, when was about 11 years old, I found that stash of
retired switches, took one apart, and was intrigued by the 'pellet' that
January 11, 2021 at 5:33:28 PM UTC-5 gregebert wrote:
>
>> Does anyone still have a functioning TV with a CRT in it ? I'll bet you
>> can get nixies to glow by holding them in front of the glass, especially if
>> you are touching some pins.
>> There's enough c
Does anyone still have a functioning TV with a CRT in it ? I'll bet you can
get nixies to glow by holding them in front of the glass, especially if you
are touching some pins.
There's enough charge in the HV area to give a mild zap when you touch the
screen, due to body capacitance.
So many
tic is not
> mine, I used it just as reference. It seems someone mixed tube connections
> as well. I tried adding resistors before, but without success.
>
> @gregebert I am not using PWM yet, but I am planning to do so, to make
> automatic dimming of nixies. I am not sure ho
After watching that video, I feel more guilt about how I loved to throw
them into the local storm drain just so we could hear the BOOM ! The
addiction got so bad that I would sometimes ride my bike to the local TV
repair show, grab a tube from the dumpster, and ride home no-hands (yes,
can
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