.
On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 9:24:09 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
> Well damn it. Looked this up & now I really want a silver Roaduno. Look
> like the same dropouts but with the hanger?
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 3, 2024, at 9:04 A
Not what else is out there, but what should be—Rivendell should bring back
the Frank Jones. 700c, sidepull brakes, 120mm rear hub, fully lugged, fits
up to 42mm tires (I have 32s with PDW fenders). I have three Rivs (FJ,
Platy, caliper Sam), but my FJ is what I think of when I want to ride
I’m currently building up my Platy 55 frame, so I don’t have a lot to go on
other than measuring clearances, but it looks like 50mm with any tread
might be about the limit. *Maybe* 55mm with smooth tread. I’m fitting mine
with 38mm and fenders for mostly paved roads.
On Monday, November 20,
I’ve used Honjo, Planet Bike, SKS, and both the aluminum and plastic
versions of Portland Design Works fenders. By far and away, the PDW fenders
are easiest to install, have the best strut safety disconnects, are the
quietest, and look at least as good, if not better, than the rest, assuming
I use C Quartz, a product intended for cars (there are quite a few quartz
coating products on the market). It won’t protect the bike’s paint from
contact chipping (only paint protection film, like XPel, will do that), but
it’s far longer-lasting and UV protective than waxes. I’ve used it on my
My Mermaid Platypus 55 frame arrived today (apparently found in their stock
from last year). This is an *elegant* bike-to-be! All you who ordered
frames or bikes have a real treat coming! I’m waiting for wheels to be
built, so plenty of time for frame-saving the tubes and ceramic coating the
I had a stock notice early last week on a 55 that I snapped up in
seconds—on the way, delivery next Tuesday. It’s in Mermaid paint (which
looks a lot like Bianchi Celeste on my screen), so I guess they found it
among old stock. I’m thrilled to be able to get a frame in my size, either
way.
it to try
out, even if I ended up rebuilding it.
On Thursday, June 22, 2023 at 10:05:13 AM UTC-4 Arthur Mayfield wrote:
> Yes Eric, it looks like it may just work. Thanks!
>
> On Wednesday, June 21, 2023 at 1:47:59 PM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> Does this work?
>>
>>
gt;>> Strumy Archer makes a 120 OLD version of their X-RF8 8 speed internal
>>> hub. It is a modern style hub with a rotary switch rather than the chain
>>> actuated gear shift.
>>>
>>> On Jun 20, 2023, at 9:50 AM, Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>>>
&g
switch rather than the chain
> actuated gear shift.
>
> On Jun 20, 2023, at 9:50 AM, Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>
> I don’t know what the rear spacing is on the Quickbeams and Simple One,
> but my Frank Jones Sr has 120mm track dropouts. Finding a modern
> manufacture IGH with 120m
I don’t know what the rear spacing is on the Quickbeams and Simple One, but
my Frank Jones Sr has 120mm track dropouts. Finding a modern manufacture
IGH with 120mm OLD has been a lost cause for me (and I build my own
wheels). I’m sure if I pored over the possibles long and diligently enough,
e HilliHubBubs).
>>
>> No, it's not true, but it's fun to imagine it.
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 28, 2021 at 11:44 AM nlerner wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 12:45:51 AM UTC-5 Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>>>
>>>> I do believe you’re corr
nd 5 speed close, medium, and wide ratio hubs, called HilliHubs?
>> (Or, it might be HilliHubBubs).
>>
>> No, it's not true, but it's fun to imagine it.
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 28, 2021 at 11:44 AM nlerner wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 12:45:5
wrote:
> Looks awesome! I love the Frank Jones Sr - and dream of building one up
> with Sturmey drum brake hubs, 3spd - I think this is the only caliper brake
> SS bike from Riv (correct me if I'm wrong!) so it's the ideal candidate...
>
>
> On Saturday, 25 December 2021 at 06:
That’s sad. Without Harris Cyclery, we might never have had Velouria and
the Lovely Cicycle blog, and I might not have found Rivendell (and would
still be wandering around lost in Mirkwood). I hope others will take up
where Harris Cyclery left off, for the benefit of the locals, at least.
On
I considered one, but then decided that: A. For the cost, a smaller U lock
would work just as well, and be more versatile; and B. Frame locks would
seem to be most useful for heavy bikes (like many Dutch-style bikes) that
can’t be easily picked up and walked off with. While I like the idea of
>From your photo, it looks like you have a B-67 saddle (sprung, one clamping
rail, one support rail). If I’m wrong and you have one of the double
clamping rail saddles like the B-66, you’re using the wrong kind of seat
post. If it’s in fact a B-67, the seat post is correct, but the bolt is
I’ve tried so many different “light” locks and component securing devices
(from cheap to really expensive) that I can hardly remember them all. What
I found out is that I’m unable to relax whenever I use one of them because
of their inherent lower security. My current choices: Hexlox in all of
Nice Build! I have Loscos on my FJSr as well, although I chose a shorter
stem and lopped off an inch or so of the handlebars instead. Love these
bars, and love the sexy curves. Even though they're OOS at Riv, they appear
to still be available from Blue Lug. That's where I got mine, well before
I have the FJ Sr in the next size larger, also grilver. I have to say that
it's not only one of the most beautiful bikes I've ever seen, it rides like
a dream. I've had both 32mm and now 38mm tires on it with fenders. I'm
pretty sure I could fit 42s without fenders. While medium reach Tektros
I want to throw in a vote for Soma Supple Vitesse SL tires. I have them
currently on my Frank Jones Sr in 700c x 38, but have also run 700c x 33 on
that bike. Both are the most comfy tires I've ever ridden on, and as light
and fast as I need. They come in two variants, SL (super light) and EX
Frank Jones Sr
2017 Special Edition One Production Run
Single Speed/Track Dropouts
>
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*Patrick Moore* and *Lammbo*,
>
The PDW fenders are made differently than Honjos/Velo Orange. Thicker,
harder grade of aluminum with cut edges rather than rolled. I'd say they're
less likely to dent, but I don't run fenders on gravel, so I haven't really
tested that hypothesis. It stands to
I've got a set of PDW 700x45 city fenders on my 650b Sam, and PDW 700x37 on
my Frank Jones Sr. I've previously had various Honjos, SKS, Planet Bike,
and others I don't even remember too well. The PDW fenders are by far the
sturdiest (without being at all heavy), best made, best designed,
I have a B67 I could trade. Sent you email.
On Tuesday, June 11, 2019 at 12:16:05 AM UTC-4, gabriel luke thompson
aspinwall wrote:
>
> Anyone interested, can email @ gabeLukE(at)gmail
>
> Thanks
>
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I have a Dirt Drop on my Sam, and a Technomic on my Frank Jones Sr, and both
were chosen for aesthetics, since either would have put my bars in the right
position for me. I like the Dirt Drop on bikes with sloping top tubes, and
Technomics on bikes with level or nearly level top tubes. When you
Man what a nice bike! If I didn't already have a Frank Jones, and if your
SimpleOne wasn't a little too big for me, I'd be all over that deal. Can't
believe it's not gone already.
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To
I've had a knife in my pocket since I was five, but the machete I got when
I was twelve (without my mom's knowledge) gave me a nasty, deep cut on my
index finger. I was holding it in one hand (with the edge turned forward)
while brushing something off my jeans with the other. There's a nice
I've done quite a few rebuild/conversions of 80s-early 90s era mtn bikes
(before the term "hardtail" was in common usage) to city/commuters, often
with solid, dependable 36 spoke 650b wheels and rim brakes, comfy
street/gravel tires, Brooks B67/68 saddles, upright bars, etc. Usually I
convert
I should add that Cinelli "cork" tape is about the most comfortable I've
used, other than the VO elkhide sew on wrap (which has been OOS for so long
I'm thinking it may be discontinued).
>
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You won't get "cush" with the Cambium tape. It's hard as a rock and is so
stiff it doesn't wrap well (unless they've improved it since a couple of
years ago). It's also quite abrasive to the hand. All in all, it was one of
the biggest wastes of money I've ever made on cycling gear (and I've
I cut the cable about a month ago. My setup is a Roku stick plugged into my
tv and high speed internet over a DSL connection. I am mostly
Apple-centric, but decided to go with Roku after some internet research.
I'm still learning to use the system, but I've been happy so far. I already
had
Don't know how tall you are or what size bike, but 130mm (even 120mm) is a
pretty long stem, moving the steering fulcrum over an inch beyond design
parameters for most frames, which tend to be designed around 90-100mm
stems. Whatever, I would say you won't see much, if any, difference in
Just to throw another wrench into this discussion, I've gotten two frames
from Riv. The first was a Sam in 2013. They told me at the time that the
tubes had been sprayed with Boeshield T-9, not Frame Saver (which is a
specific product, not a generic term). The second frame was a Frank Jones
I love quirky bikes like this Clem. My Sam has been, at various times, a
one speed, 2x7/8/9, two speed Auto, and currently a 1x9, with drops, North
Road, and porteur bars, road, city, and reverse levers, bar end, thumbie,
stem, and DT shifters, and front, back, or both racks, as well as
After several configurations, I finally settled on 1x9 for my Sam, then
went from bar end shifters to stem to DT (with a clamp on mount). I
definitely shift less often with the DT than before. The difference between
riding a derailleur bike in one gear and a SS, though, is how much more
torque
My Sam is a 650b, but i do have Tektro 559's. My tires are Soma Grand
Randonneur 42s, so are probably close to yours in diameter and even wider.
My all-time favorite fenders are Portland Design Works Full Metal Fenders
(city size). They are 700c x 45mm size. I mount them to the brake bolt in
I have four B68s. Sent you email.
On Tuesday, September 12, 2017 at 12:43:47 AM UTC-4, VeloVert wrote:
>
> Hi all. Looking for a Brooks B68 saddle in new/newish condition. Black or
> Brown preferred. Please PM me if you have one for sale. Thank you.
>
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You received this message because you
I've had a blue Sam for several years, and it's a pretty, unique shade with
cream accents, but I found coordinating other pieces to it to be
challenging. I ended up with everything else either bright silver, black,
or dark gray/titanium gray. I tried cream SKS fenders, but they seemed a
bit
I've got a left one, David. The bike I used the right one on is a 1x7/8/9,
so I may as well sell the left. $20, shipped within the US.
On Monday, October 26, 2015 at 12:17:29 AM UTC-4, dstein wrote:
>
> Looking to free up some handlebar space and move the left shifter from the
> handlebars to
My understanding (perhaps from an old Blug post) is that Riv developed the
cream Longboards to in conjunction with SKS to match their head tubes. I
have a set, and already had a set of hammered Honjos that also fit my Sam.
They both look nice, but I ended up fitting (with some
I got a No 33, which fits 31-34mm (Sam's downtube is 32.3mm, iirc). I taped
the inside surface of the clamp with 3M packing tape and it held securely
and didn't mar the paint. Inner tube might work, but it might be too thick
or might slide around.
On Friday, August 14, 2015 at 5:54:52 PM
I got one of the clamp on mounts from ebay (Moose Racing). Currently I've
got my Sam set up as a 1x9 with a single Paul thumbie on the stem, but when
I had it rigged as a 2x9, I put a single layer of 3M packing tape on the
inside of the Moose Racing clamp, then mounted it to the downtube using
I ride my C-17 (carved) flat. I also have one of the first batch of
uncarved C-17s that I haven't ridden in a while, but I think I set it up
flat as well. I do tend to move the Cambiums a centimeter or so further
back than the B-17. For my B-17 I tilt the nose just barely above flat.
There's
I've found that I prefer the chain stay mounting to be a bit forward of
perfect alignment to ease removing and replacement of the rear wheel. I use
a spacer there, but not long enough to bring the fender to an equidistant
position with the seat stay and strut placements. It's not really
My experience is with the IRD stem mount and a couple of single cranksets
on my Sam... Yes, you can move your thumb shifter(s) to the stem mount,
although you'll have to disconnect the cable (because of the cable
adjusters on the thumb mount and stem mount). If you want to just run the
RD, I
One thought... Are you sure the little black plastic Dia Compe washer under
the D ring is mounted correctly (notch in slot)? It's really easy for it to
slip out when installing the shifter and trying to hold all the pieces in
place while screwing the bolt in. If the washer isn't in right, the
According to Brooks, it's been given the same water resistant treatment as
the saddles, so shouldn't need shellac. I tried it early on, in the natural
color. I found it to be exceedingly stiff and hard to wrap. It has no
stretch at all, so edges tend to stand proud of the layer underneath. It's
I have a honey B67 mens version (chrome springs) that's never been ridden.
Also a B67 aged as well (never ridden). Email me if you're interested.
On Monday, May 4, 2015 at 1:14:29 PM UTC-4, Manuel Acosta wrote:
Anyone have a used Honet Brooks b67?
Trying to finishing this tandem, need one to
Ultegra 6500 SS + Ultegra 6500 fd on my Sam. Currently running a 12-25 9spd
cluster, but have had 13-28 7spd and 11-28 8spd on there before. 46/30 up
front. NOS Ebay and VO stuff. Riv Silver shifters handle it all.
On Tuesday, April 21, 2015 at 11:34:37 PM UTC-4, Michael Leven wrote:
I'll
I haven't riden a Flyer, but have a B-67 (sprung), B-68 (same wide saddle
unsprung), B-17, C-17, and C-17 carved, so I may be able to offer
something... The coil springs on the Flyer/B-67 are at the rear, so they
compress only when you are sitting back on the saddle, and they are pretty
stiff.
I have an almost brand new set of Ultegra 8spd bar end shifters that I'd
sell you. I used them on my Sam for only a couple of days before deciding I
didn't care for indexed shifting and preferred the ratios of a 7spd
cassette I had better anyway. In fact, I suppose I have a practically new
I have a brand new set of Schwalbe Cream Fat Franks (26 x 2.35) that I'd
like to get rid of (too big for both of my 26 inchers), but I don't need
your 700's.
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 11:21:29 AM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:
Just wondering if anyone would like to swap? My set has less
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