[RBW] Re: advice on crank / bb selection

2010-09-27 Thread charlie
My theoryif it feels comfortable to you its probably right for
you. Only you can tell what works. I have a similar predicament and
will probably use some kneesavers to get a wider Q and keep the
bottom bracket width that gives me the best chainline for my terrain.
I think the Riv site gives some recommendations for bottom bracket
width usually  its either 110 to 113mm. I use a 107 on my non Riv
frame that is similar to an Atlantis.

On Sep 26, 9:45 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks folks, for all the suggestions and observations.  

 I guess one of the specific questions I have is how short for cranks and 
 how wide for bb..  

 And also.. I couldn't find any notes on the width of the bb that came with my 
 Sam.. so not sure if the Sugino XD2 with it's 165 is narrower or not than the 
 Gary Fisher (which I no longer have) with it's 166 tread.

 So.. when starting to build my new (to me) Romulus.. what size bb might folks 
 suggest to get a nice wide Q?

 Also, someone replied in the thread that a TA Cyclotouriste would be a good 
 idea.. but those have narrow tread, right?  And someone else seemed to 
 suggest narrow-verus-wide to help ITB problems.. guess I'm a little confused.

 Best,
 Andrew

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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread travis.ha...@gmail.com
2 centimeters, 4/5 of an inch? That's quite a bit. Did anyone ever
offer observation to you that your hips were rocking when you
pedaled?

The other rule of foot-length is that heels just touching the pedals
when the leg is fully extended implies the right bend at the knee
when the distance from heel to place-of-foot over pedal is added. That
said, common advice is that for many riders,  moving cleats a bit
behind the ball of the foot instead of under them is a better, if not
most powerful position. That would imply a lower saddle, but just
several mm. lower.

On Sep 27, 10:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
 If you want to double check, you could measure your pubic bone height
 (PBH) using the method on the rivendell site and then apply their
 formula for seat height, which is PBH minus 10-10.5cm.  I did this
 recently and ended up lowering my saddles about 2 cm.  So far, my
 hamstrings are thanking me.  It also has the added advantage of
 raising my bars by 2cm relative to my seat, making everything just
 slightly more comfy cockpit-wise.

 On Sep 26, 6:29 pm, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:



  I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a young
  triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
  came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
  so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
  immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
  before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
  so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
  the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
  that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
  very slightly bent.  I've been doing that with every bike I've set up
  for lo these many years.  Was that wrong?  Has there been any progress
  in thinking on this subject?
  GeorgeS

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Re: [RBW] my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread Bruce
very nice.






From: BykMor byk...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, September 26, 2010 11:04:55 PM
Subject: [RBW] my Rambouillet- some new pics

My green Rambouillet is finally (almost) complete and it was a nice
day out so I took a few pictures.


  

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Re: [RBW] Re: advice on crank / bb selection

2010-09-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
The Cyclotourist has a very narrow tread, so these would probably not
be for you.

I get 160 mm for the Q on my XD2 with its stock Sam Hill bb; not that
5 mm is a huge difference, and doubtless is more than made up by
shoes, cleat position and pedal choice; but I wonder if you measured
more carefully than I. (At any rate, this setup is at the outer limits
of what I can tolerate, Q-wize.)

On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 10:45 PM, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks folks, for all the suggestions and observations.

 I guess one of the specific questions I have is how short for cranks and 
 how wide for bb..

 And also.. I couldn't find any notes on the width of the bb that came with my 
 Sam.. so not sure if the Sugino XD2 with it's 165 is narrower or not than the 
 Gary Fisher (which I no longer have) with it's 166 tread.

 So.. when starting to build my new (to me) Romulus.. what size bb might folks 
 suggest to get a nice wide Q?

 Also, someone replied in the thread that a TA Cyclotouriste would be a good 
 idea.. but those have narrow tread, right?  And someone else seemed to 
 suggest narrow-verus-wide to help ITB problems.. guess I'm a little confused.

 Best,
 Andrew



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-- 
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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread Ken Freeman
I start with my PBH measurement, then multiply by 1.09.  I set the saddle to
this height measuring along the seat tube from the axis of the pedal to the
top of the saddle with the lower crank arm in line with the seat tube.  I do
this with the saddle level and centered on the saddle clamp.  Then I
ride-test it.

Usually the bars are already in the correct position for me, which is about
2 cm below the saddle.  If not, I change them.

After this I have some rules for troubleshooting.  I don't know if I should
go into detail.

The best shop fitting I had was when the coach used a goniometer to measure
and set my knee angle at pedal bottom - between 25 and 30 degrees is the
usual convention.  This fitter used KOPS to set the saddle fore/aft
position.

The most critical thing is to get as much leg extension as you can without
causing your hips to rock painfully.

Will the simple knee extension rule do it for you?  Only you can find out,
but if another good rider says, you look a little low, it's reasonable to
see if going up, maybe 1/8 inch at a time, does you any good without adding
negatives - there are a lot of ways to look at it these days.

Sometimes it takes a few hours or days to tell if a change brings negative
effects with it.  Try to mark or record your old position to be able to go
back to the old position if it doesn't work.  There is such a thing as going
too far too fast with a change, having some pain, and needing to go back to
where you were.  Sometimes you need to do this while out on a ride.  Think
of that classic professional rider (forgot who) who carried wrenches to
set his saddle in the middle of TdF stages!


On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:16 AM, travis.ha...@gmail.com 
travis.ha...@gmail.com wrote:

 2 centimeters, 4/5 of an inch? That's quite a bit. Did anyone ever
 offer observation to you that your hips were rocking when you
 pedaled?

 The other rule of foot-length is that heels just touching the pedals
 when the leg is fully extended implies the right bend at the knee
 when the distance from heel to place-of-foot over pedal is added. That
 said, common advice is that for many riders,  moving cleats a bit
 behind the ball of the foot instead of under them is a better, if not
 most powerful position. That would imply a lower saddle, but just
 several mm. lower.

 On Sep 27, 10:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
  If you want to double check, you could measure your pubic bone height
  (PBH) using the method on the rivendell site and then apply their
  formula for seat height, which is PBH minus 10-10.5cm.  I did this
  recently and ended up lowering my saddles about 2 cm.  So far, my
  hamstrings are thanking me.  It also has the added advantage of
  raising my bars by 2cm relative to my seat, making everything just
  slightly more comfy cockpit-wise.
 
  On Sep 26, 6:29 pm, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
   I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a young
   triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
   came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
   so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
   immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
   before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
   so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
   the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
   that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
   very slightly bent.  I've been doing that with every bike I've set up
   for lo these many years.  Was that wrong?  Has there been any progress
   in thinking on this subject?
   GeorgeS

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-- 
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread Ken Freeman
Another thing is that triathletes usually have their saddles placed farther
forward and higher up than do road riders - different strokes for different
sports!  His advice might not be right for you.

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:53 AM, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.comwrote:

 I start with my PBH measurement, then multiply by 1.09.  I set the saddle
 to this height measuring along the seat tube from the axis of the pedal to
 the top of the saddle with the lower crank arm in line with the seat tube.
 I do this with the saddle level and centered on the saddle clamp.  Then I
 ride-test it.

 Usually the bars are already in the correct position for me, which is about
 2 cm below the saddle.  If not, I change them.

 After this I have some rules for troubleshooting.  I don't know if I should
 go into detail.

 The best shop fitting I had was when the coach used a goniometer to measure
 and set my knee angle at pedal bottom - between 25 and 30 degrees is the
 usual convention.  This fitter used KOPS to set the saddle fore/aft
 position.

 The most critical thing is to get as much leg extension as you can without
 causing your hips to rock painfully.

 Will the simple knee extension rule do it for you?  Only you can find out,
 but if another good rider says, you look a little low, it's reasonable to
 see if going up, maybe 1/8 inch at a time, does you any good without adding
 negatives - there are a lot of ways to look at it these days.

 Sometimes it takes a few hours or days to tell if a change brings negative
 effects with it.  Try to mark or record your old position to be able to go
 back to the old position if it doesn't work.  There is such a thing as going
 too far too fast with a change, having some pain, and needing to go back to
 where you were.  Sometimes you need to do this while out on a ride.  Think
 of that classic professional rider (forgot who) who carried wrenches to
 set his saddle in the middle of TdF stages!



 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:16 AM, travis.ha...@gmail.com 
 travis.ha...@gmail.com wrote:

 2 centimeters, 4/5 of an inch? That's quite a bit. Did anyone ever
 offer observation to you that your hips were rocking when you
 pedaled?

 The other rule of foot-length is that heels just touching the pedals
 when the leg is fully extended implies the right bend at the knee
 when the distance from heel to place-of-foot over pedal is added. That
 said, common advice is that for many riders,  moving cleats a bit
 behind the ball of the foot instead of under them is a better, if not
 most powerful position. That would imply a lower saddle, but just
 several mm. lower.

 On Sep 27, 10:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
  If you want to double check, you could measure your pubic bone height
  (PBH) using the method on the rivendell site and then apply their
  formula for seat height, which is PBH minus 10-10.5cm.  I did this
  recently and ended up lowering my saddles about 2 cm.  So far, my
  hamstrings are thanking me.  It also has the added advantage of
  raising my bars by 2cm relative to my seat, making everything just
  slightly more comfy cockpit-wise.
 
  On Sep 26, 6:29 pm, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
   I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a young
   triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
   came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
   so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
   immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
   before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
   so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
   the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
   that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
   very slightly bent.  I've been doing that with every bike I've set up
   for lo these many years.  Was that wrong?  Has there been any progress
   in thinking on this subject?
   GeorgeS

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 --
 Ken Freeman
 Ann Arbor, MI USA




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Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] FS: Carradice Nelson and Carradice SQR, $60 shipped CONUS

2010-09-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Bag: Old, but good. This model has the double layer of canvas on the
bottom instead of the plastic (I *think* the newer ones I owned had
plastic down there, but I could be forgetting something). Canvas
faded, straps rather grubby, but all in excellent working order.

SQR: New (ish) -- has been mounted only on one bike.

They don't fit on the Fargo.

Note the SJS Cycles now has a very export friendly website: you can
look up items with pricing in $, and shipping is quite cheap as are
the prices for such things as saddlebags and SQRs. A new Nelson and
SQR would run you $113 shipped to your US address.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: advice on crank / bb selection

2010-09-27 Thread Garth

I found this very helpful chart of Tange BB's, and Shimano's UN54 are
about the same proportions. This is invaluable if you want to go
changing BB's. The 111mm Tange is labelled as a 110 BTW.

 Look carefully at the charts ,as driveside/non driveside proportions
are surprising, they don't really follow any what we may call a
logical progression.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/5029565072_d7ebfb0b4d.jpg
http://blog.harriscyclery.com/relative-chainline-bottom-brackets/

You can use even a 118mm BB with a XD2 and get a decent 47-47.5mm
chainline and a wider Q.

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[RBW] Re: my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread MichaelH
Very nice build, but I may be prejudice since my blue Ram is quite
similar - Honjos, Paul's, Marks mini, DT shifters.  I went with White
hubs  Dinotte lighting.  What is the crank set?

michael

On Sep 27, 12:04 am, BykMor byk...@gmail.com wrote:
 My green Rambouillet is finally (almost) complete and it was a nice
 day out so I took a few pictures.

 Hopefully the link to my Picasa site will suffice.

 http://picasaweb.google.com/bykmor/RacingRivRam910?feat=directlink

 Fairly traditional build, but perked it up with some Paul's centerpull
 brakes, Honjo fenders and a Schmidt/Phil wheel combo by Peter White.

 The rear light is not wired quite yet, hence the battery light that I
 needed for the Salt to Saint Relay (Salt Lake City, UT to Saint
 George, UT) I did last weekend. The bike performed marvelously and our
 team did the 401 miles in just over 20 hours.

 A leather mud flap will bring the front fender reach down a bit, but I
 wanted a little more fender forward, as well as the ability to load
 the bike on a fork mount rack, which a low front fender sometimes
 precludes.

 Cheers,
 BykMor

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[RBW] Bag and SQR claimed.

2010-09-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread sjauch
Saddle height is very person specific. I went with Riv method of PBH
minus 10 for a saddle height of 72cm. Earlier this year I developed
knee pain that prevented me from riding for 2 months. I went to a
fitter who raised my saddle by 1.5cm and it has made a world of
difference. This was in addition to adjusting the cleats on my shoes.

It can't hurt to play around. The fitter had my bike hooked up to some
fancy trainer that measured watt output and noticed an increase with
the changed made. It was a pretty interesting experience.

On Sep 27, 5:55 am, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.com wrote:
 Another thing is that triathletes usually have their saddles placed farther
 forward and higher up than do road riders - different strokes for different
 sports!  His advice might not be right for you.

 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:53 AM, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.comwrote:





  I start with my PBH measurement, then multiply by 1.09.  I set the saddle
  to this height measuring along the seat tube from the axis of the pedal to
  the top of the saddle with the lower crank arm in line with the seat tube.
  I do this with the saddle level and centered on the saddle clamp.  Then I
  ride-test it.

  Usually the bars are already in the correct position for me, which is about
  2 cm below the saddle.  If not, I change them.

  After this I have some rules for troubleshooting.  I don't know if I should
  go into detail.

  The best shop fitting I had was when the coach used a goniometer to measure
  and set my knee angle at pedal bottom - between 25 and 30 degrees is the
  usual convention.  This fitter used KOPS to set the saddle fore/aft
  position.

  The most critical thing is to get as much leg extension as you can without
  causing your hips to rock painfully.

  Will the simple knee extension rule do it for you?  Only you can find out,
  but if another good rider says, you look a little low, it's reasonable to
  see if going up, maybe 1/8 inch at a time, does you any good without adding
  negatives - there are a lot of ways to look at it these days.

  Sometimes it takes a few hours or days to tell if a change brings negative
  effects with it.  Try to mark or record your old position to be able to go
  back to the old position if it doesn't work.  There is such a thing as going
  too far too fast with a change, having some pain, and needing to go back to
  where you were.  Sometimes you need to do this while out on a ride.  Think
  of that classic professional rider (forgot who) who carried wrenches to
  set his saddle in the middle of TdF stages!

  On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:16 AM, travis.ha...@gmail.com 
  travis.ha...@gmail.com wrote:

  2 centimeters, 4/5 of an inch? That's quite a bit. Did anyone ever
  offer observation to you that your hips were rocking when you
  pedaled?

  The other rule of foot-length is that heels just touching the pedals
  when the leg is fully extended implies the right bend at the knee
  when the distance from heel to place-of-foot over pedal is added. That
  said, common advice is that for many riders,  moving cleats a bit
  behind the ball of the foot instead of under them is a better, if not
  most powerful position. That would imply a lower saddle, but just
  several mm. lower.

  On Sep 27, 10:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
   If you want to double check, you could measure your pubic bone height
   (PBH) using the method on the rivendell site and then apply their
   formula for seat height, which is PBH minus 10-10.5cm.  I did this
   recently and ended up lowering my saddles about 2 cm.  So far, my
   hamstrings are thanking me.  It also has the added advantage of
   raising my bars by 2cm relative to my seat, making everything just
   slightly more comfy cockpit-wise.

   On Sep 26, 6:29 pm, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:

I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a young
triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
very slightly bent.  I've been doing that with every bike I've set up
for lo these many years.  Was that wrong?  Has there been any progress
in thinking on this subject?
GeorgeS

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[RBW] Re: looking to buy tubus front lowrider rack for atlantis w 26 rims: any prefs over tara vs ergo/nova?

2010-09-27 Thread JoelMatthews
 That's a nice rack but my first thought was  Why didn't they finish it and
 put a platform on it?

For pure touring, it is a very good design.  Light weight but sturdy.
Holds panniers tight to center.  A small handlebar bag is enough for
whatever most people need on the ride.

I agree it is not practical for commuting or other day to day uses.

On Sep 26, 5:20 pm, Ken Mattina ken.matt...@gmail.com wrote:
 That's a nice rack but my first thought was  Why didn't they finish it and
 put a platform on it?

 Ken





 On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 10:22 AM, canali jwcoll...@hotmail.com wrote:
  looking to buy tubus front lowrider rack for atlantis w 26 rims:
  any prefs over the tubus tara vs ergo/nova?

  just would like to get some feedback on owners' prefs on these racks,
  if possible, pleasehad read somewhere that I'd also need some P
  clamp.

  PS just came across this newer Tubus front rack, too, designed for
  atlantis like front forks, i believe:
 http://www.tubus.com/en/lowrider/smarti

  cheers
  joe

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 Where did the spring go?
 Where did my hormones go?
 Where did my energy go?
 Where did my go go?
 Where did the pleasure go?
 Where did my hair go?

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Re: [RBW] New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread Bruce Baker
I have always used the method of putting my heel on the pedal at 6 o'clock
and adjusting the saddle height so that my leg is straight.  This will
provide some bend to the knees since you are pedaling with the ball of your
foot.

On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 9:29 PM, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:

 I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a young
 triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
 came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
 so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
 immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
 before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
 so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
 the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
 that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
 very slightly bent.  I've been doing that with every bike I've set up
 for lo these many years.  Was that wrong?  Has there been any progress
 in thinking on this subject?
 GeorgeS

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Re: [RBW] finished hunqapillar build

2010-09-27 Thread Fai Mao
More generally,

Tell us how it is built up

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:09 AM, JimD rasterd...@comcast.net wrote:

 What a beautiful bike!

 Here's hoping that it stars in many of your great photos.

 -JimD

  On Sep 25, 2010, at 7:26 PM, erik jensen wrote:

  Taking a break after a day of assembly. Looking forward to tomorrow!

 photo:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikenoir/5024265087/lightbox/


 erik
 --
 oakland, ca
 bikenoir.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread JoelMatthews
Very impressed with the effort some of you put into finding optimal
seat height.

I eyeball it when setting up the bike then make sure I have the
appropriate seat post adjusting tool with me the first few rides
(usually have this in any event - cepting the bike with the Pitlock
binder.)


On Sep 27, 9:12 am, sjauch sja...@gmail.com wrote:
 Saddle height is very person specific. I went with Riv method of PBH
 minus 10 for a saddle height of 72cm. Earlier this year I developed
 knee pain that prevented me from riding for 2 months. I went to a
 fitter who raised my saddle by 1.5cm and it has made a world of
 difference. This was in addition to adjusting the cleats on my shoes.

 It can't hurt to play around. The fitter had my bike hooked up to some
 fancy trainer that measured watt output and noticed an increase with
 the changed made. It was a pretty interesting experience.

 On Sep 27, 5:55 am, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.com wrote:



  Another thing is that triathletes usually have their saddles placed farther
  forward and higher up than do road riders - different strokes for different
  sports!  His advice might not be right for you.

  On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:53 AM, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.comwrote:

   I start with my PBH measurement, then multiply by 1.09.  I set the saddle
   to this height measuring along the seat tube from the axis of the pedal to
   the top of the saddle with the lower crank arm in line with the seat tube.
   I do this with the saddle level and centered on the saddle clamp.  Then I
   ride-test it.

   Usually the bars are already in the correct position for me, which is 
   about
   2 cm below the saddle.  If not, I change them.

   After this I have some rules for troubleshooting.  I don't know if I 
   should
   go into detail.

   The best shop fitting I had was when the coach used a goniometer to 
   measure
   and set my knee angle at pedal bottom - between 25 and 30 degrees is the
   usual convention.  This fitter used KOPS to set the saddle fore/aft
   position.

   The most critical thing is to get as much leg extension as you can without
   causing your hips to rock painfully.

   Will the simple knee extension rule do it for you?  Only you can find out,
   but if another good rider says, you look a little low, it's reasonable 
   to
   see if going up, maybe 1/8 inch at a time, does you any good without 
   adding
   negatives - there are a lot of ways to look at it these days.

   Sometimes it takes a few hours or days to tell if a change brings negative
   effects with it.  Try to mark or record your old position to be able to go
   back to the old position if it doesn't work.  There is such a thing as 
   going
   too far too fast with a change, having some pain, and needing to go back 
   to
   where you were.  Sometimes you need to do this while out on a ride.  Think
   of that classic professional rider (forgot who) who carried wrenches 
   to
   set his saddle in the middle of TdF stages!

   On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:16 AM, travis.ha...@gmail.com 
   travis.ha...@gmail.com wrote:

   2 centimeters, 4/5 of an inch? That's quite a bit. Did anyone ever
   offer observation to you that your hips were rocking when you
   pedaled?

   The other rule of foot-length is that heels just touching the pedals
   when the leg is fully extended implies the right bend at the knee
   when the distance from heel to place-of-foot over pedal is added. That
   said, common advice is that for many riders,  moving cleats a bit
   behind the ball of the foot instead of under them is a better, if not
   most powerful position. That would imply a lower saddle, but just
   several mm. lower.

   On Sep 27, 10:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
If you want to double check, you could measure your pubic bone height
(PBH) using the method on the rivendell site and then apply their
formula for seat height, which is PBH minus 10-10.5cm.  I did this
recently and ended up lowering my saddles about 2 cm.  So far, my
hamstrings are thanking me.  It also has the added advantage of
raising my bars by 2cm relative to my seat, making everything just
slightly more comfy cockpit-wise.

On Sep 26, 6:29 pm, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:

 I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a 
 young
 triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
 came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
 so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
 immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
 before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
 so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
 the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
 that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
 very slightly bent.  I've been doing 

[RBW] Re: my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread Leslie
I hadn't noticed that the lugs had changed;  mine has the pointy-lugs
like the Hilsen instead of the swoopy Atlantis-like ones.  (I had
noticed the mid-stay mounts, etc., but haven't used them yet...
(
http://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/4407972696/in/set-72157623199721925/#/photos/leslie_bright/4407972696/in/set-72157623199721925/lightbox/
). )

On Sep 27, 12:36 am, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 There was a very special Hilsen-like run of Rams at the end. They had the 
 lugs just like the Hilsen and the fork crown too. (It seems that Atlantises 
 have these features now too.) More importantly, that last set of Rams also 
 had mounts on the fork and seatstays for mini-racks. Pretty sweet bikes.

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Re: [RBW] Re: advice on crank / bb selection

2010-09-27 Thread CycloFiend
on 9/26/10 9:45 PM, andrew hill at neurod...@gmail.com wrote:

 So.. when starting to build my new (to me) Romulus.. what size bb might folks
 suggest to get a nice wide Q?

You have to watch it a bit there - simply swapping in a bottom bracket with
a longer spindle will change your chainline. It could move it outboard
enough to affect shifting.

Spindle length and tread/Q are two separate things.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1991/pages/bridgestone-1991-13.htm

http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/cranks

To grossly overstate, most cranks currently available are wide or wider
tread - reacting to the trend towards shorter chainstays of larger diameter.
(MTB cranks seem to be the widest.) This allows the arms to clear the
chainstays, which is generally a very good thing, but does move your feet
wider, which may not be.  They change the angle or outward placement of the
arms, but also place the rings where they need to be for proper chainline.

The generally accepted wisdom is that tread/Q should be narrow, but what
defines narrow to me may not work for you.  Hip width, knees and ankle
angles and all sorts of stuff come into play.  Some folks get on a wide set
pair of cranks and go Aahh! while others certainly don't.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes



You must be the change you want to see in the world.
Mahatma Gandhi

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[RBW] Re: my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread BykMor
Thanks for the comments, all. I like seeing the other builds. Nice,
Leslie, I need to get me a Yehuda Moon pin.

Not sure of the exact timing of this frame. Possibly towards the end
of the 2006-2008 range. We also haven't figured out what, exactly, is
up with that Sugino crankset. It's giving me a bit of issue with the
left arm loosening. I'm looking for the perfect (all silver) cranks to
throw on there. Likely with a square taper BB. Any suggestions?

Happy trails all,
BykMor

On Sep 27, 8:55 am, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 I hadn't noticed that the lugs had changed;  mine has the pointy-lugs
 like the Hilsen instead of the swoopy Atlantis-like ones.  (I had
 noticed the mid-stay mounts, etc., but haven't used them yet...
 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/4407972696/in/set-72157623...
 ). )

 On Sep 27, 12:36 am, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:



  There was a very special Hilsen-like run of Rams at the end. They had the 
  lugs just like the Hilsen and the fork crown too. (It seems that Atlantises 
  have these features now too.) More importantly, that last set of Rams also 
  had mounts on the fork and seatstays for mini-racks. Pretty sweet bikes.

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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread kevin lindsey
David Wilson, in Bicycle Science (the bible of bicycle engineering),
advocated no knee flex at 6:00, meaning that a rider seeking maximum
efficiency should raise his or her saddle just a bit if his or her
knee is slightly bent at that position.  Any flex there and you lose a
significant amount of power from your stroke.  That's the theory.  In
practice, as even Wilson admitted, you need just a wee bit of flex in
order to avoid undue stress to the knees, if I recall correctly.  In
essence, it's possible that the triathlete thought that your knee was
bend a bit more than necessary and that your saddle could indeed come
up.

On Sep 26, 6:29 pm, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
 I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a young
 triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
 came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
 so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
 immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
 before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
 so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
 the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
 that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
 very slightly bent.  I've been doing that with every bike I've set up
 for lo these many years.  Was that wrong?  Has there been any progress
 in thinking on this subject?
 GeorgeS

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[RBW] Re: my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread Philip Williamson
I love the Cycles Gladiator cork spacer on the rack! The whole bike is
dialed beautifully.
That was the first time I'd seen that light mount in action - does it
hold steady?

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com


On Sep 26, 9:04 pm, BykMor byk...@gmail.com wrote:
 My green Rambouillet is finally (almost) complete and it was a nice
 day out so I took a few pictures.

 Hopefully the link to my Picasa site will suffice.

 http://picasaweb.google.com/bykmor/RacingRivRam910?feat=directlink

 Fairly traditional build, but perked it up with some Paul's centerpull
 brakes, Honjo fenders and a Schmidt/Phil wheel combo by Peter White.

 The rear light is not wired quite yet, hence the battery light that I
 needed for the Salt to Saint Relay (Salt Lake City, UT to Saint
 George, UT) I did last weekend. The bike performed marvelously and our
 team did the 401 miles in just over 20 hours.

 A leather mud flap will bring the front fender reach down a bit, but I
 wanted a little more fender forward, as well as the ability to load
 the bike on a fork mount rack, which a low front fender sometimes
 precludes.

 Cheers,
 BykMor

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[RBW] Re: looking to buy tubus front lowrider rack for atlantis w 26 rims: any prefs over tara vs ergo/nova?

2010-09-27 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Patrick:

(I should know better than to leave out details to qualify my
statement... apologies)... I was running Big Apple 2.35 (60mm) tires.
I didn't try it with narrower tires.

BB

On Sep 27, 10:18 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Bobby: What tires were on the Fargo when you tried it? I have a Tara
 and, while I did not actually mount it on the Fargo, I held it in
 place and it seemed to me that, with a little bending if necessary,
 it would work fine at least with 40 mm tires. But if you are sure that
 it won't work, I'll need the Duo or something. Thanks, PAM

 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:00 AM, Montclair BobbyB





 montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
  I have a Tubus Tara lowrider rack (about 4 years old) that I have
  installed on my old 26 inch Mongoose ATB Tourer and ridden around
  maybe a dozen times (all for show, as it turns out !!!)  I originally
  intended to use these on my Kogswell, but sold that bike before I got
  around to doing my imaginary grand tour or expedition to Tibet... Then
  I realized they wouldn't fit on my Fargo (which was too big)... so
  they sat hanging in my garage for the past few years. On my Bombadil I
  think I will just stick with the mini/platrack combo...  The Tara
  attaches to the mid-fork braze-ons, but I believe I may also have fork
  straps.  The newer Tara model obviously has been improved to attach to
  the canti mounts (if you don't have the mid-fork brazes).

  If interested, $50 + $10 shipping?  (Where are you located?)
  I can take photos tonight.  They're black, in great shape, and I have
  various hardware.

  montclairbob...@gmail.com

  On Sep 26, 1:22 pm, canali jwcoll...@hotmail.com wrote:
  looking to buy tubus front lowrider rack for atlantis w 26 rims:
  any prefs over the tubus tara vs ergo/nova?

  just would like to get some feedback on owners' prefs on these racks,
  if possible, pleasehad read somewhere that I'd also need some P
  clamp.

  PS just came across this newer Tubus front rack, too, designed for
  atlantis like front forks, i 
  believe:http://www.tubus.com/en/lowrider/smarti

  cheers
  joe

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[RBW] picture of ram or rom w/fenders

2010-09-27 Thread Seth Vidal
Last week or the week before last - in the discussion of fender
clearance on ram's someone posted a picture of a ram or a rom with sks
fenders and what looked like jack browns tires.

Can that person post that picture again? I can't seem to find it in
the archives and I want to take another look at it.

thanks
-sv

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[RBW] Riv-Related Photos

2010-09-27 Thread Eric Norris

I took my Riv Road out for a little ride on Saturday--the Knoxville Double 
Century (204 miles, 12,000 feet of climbing, mid-90s temps).  I didn't get 
photos of them, but there were several other Rivendells on the ride, including 
an orange Ram and a very pretty Riv Road (with ... Gasp! ... a threadless 
steerer and carbon-fiber bars!).

Photos are here:  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624913992581/

I'm still working on captions, but most of them are there.
--Eric
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

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Re: [RBW] my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread Eric Norris

Are those pedals a standard color, or did you add the green to the end plates?
--Eric Color-Coordinated Bikes Go Faster Norris
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org




On Sep 27, 2010, at 08:43 AM, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com 
wrote:

I love the Cycles Gladiator cork spacer on the rack! The whole bike is
dialed beautifully.
That was the first time I'd seen that light mount in action - does it
hold steady?

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com


On Sep 26, 9:04 pm, BykMor byk...@gmail.com wrote:

My green Rambouillet is finally (almost) complete and it was a nice
day out so I took a few pictures.

Hopefully the link to my Picasa site will suffice.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bykmor/RacingRivRam910?feat=directlink

Fairly traditional build, but perked it up with some Paul's centerpull
brakes, Honjo fenders and a Schmidt/Phil wheel combo by Peter White.

The rear light is not wired quite yet, hence the battery light that I
needed for the Salt to Saint Relay (Salt Lake City, UT to Saint
George, UT) I did last weekend. The bike performed marvelously and our
team did the 401 miles in just over 20 hours.

A leather mud flap will bring the front fender reach down a bit, but I
wanted a little more fender forward, as well as the ability to load
the bike on a fork mount rack, which a low front fender sometimes
precludes.

Cheers,
BykMor


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[RBW] Not-so-small renovelo updates

2010-09-27 Thread William
So, things have changed quite a bit since Sept 4.

The Renovelo frameset that I picked up had a couple issues.  Issues
that were hard to detect until you started building the bike.  Anyhow,
Riv totally started handling them as you'd expect.  As that process
was underway, I had a conversation with Keven about the bike I really
wanted, had been saving up for, and that this Renovelo was
functionally replacing.  Waiting for repair work allowed me to
contemplate my age and the amount of time I expect to have the bike,
and the likelihood of ever buying another bike like it.  One thing led
to another, and I went ahead and asked Keven to apply the price I paid
to a 650B 58cm A. Homer Hilsen instead.  Keven was more than
gracious.  I think that the black Renovelo that I bought will likely
come up again from Riv, but probably as a complete bike, so they can
recoup the additional expense they will be putting into it.

Anyhow, I'm now a Hilsen 650B owner.  This is the prettiest frame I've
ever seen.  Of the two Hilsen blues, this is the lighter shade,
slightly metallic and with a subtle pearl that you have to get into
direct sun to really appreciate.  I got about 80% through the build,
and had to head out of the country for work.  I get back Friday
afternoon.  It will be a longshot to finish the build and defeat
jetlag to have it with me for the Mt Diablo ride on the 2nd of
October.

There are a couple of photos on my flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/5022081484/



On Sep 4, 5:49 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 very nice Bill. I didn't even spot this. The early bird gets the worm
 I guess.

 Though I'm busy plotting upgrades to my new-to-me Ram.   New paint,
 brakes, wheels etc.

 ~Mike

 On Sep 3, 4:24 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:



  I added a phone photo of the headtube to my flickr:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/4955037653/

  On Sep 3, 1:18 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

   On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:14 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
Seth

I'll do that tonight.  Jay told me that they were thinking of making
the head tube decal into a proper head badge.  I'm hoping they follow
through with that.  It sounds like it'll come down to dollars.  I
offered to pay my part.

   dude, with the money you saved by buying arenoveloframe see if you
   can get one of the various headbadge makers to make one for you. I'm
   sure riv would love to see a custom one cut like that.

   -sv- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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RE: [RBW] Riv-Related Photos (and a plug for the GB Cypres)

2010-09-27 Thread Joe Bartoe
Very nice pics, Eric! 

I'm the owner of the carbon-barred, threadless steer tube Riv. It was a great 
ride and well supported. There seemed to be a lot less steel on the ride than 
I'm used to seeing. 

Through all the chip seal and the broken pavement and the potholes, my 700x28c 
Grand Bois Cypres tires took the edge off and save me at least a few pinch 
flats from hitting some of those potholes in the dark. For those who want to 
know, I ran them at 90/85 psi rear/front. I had about 1200 miles on the tires 
heading in and they're still running strong.

Joe 

To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
From: campyonly...@me.com
Subject: [RBW] Riv-Related Photos
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 16:19:01 +

I took my Riv Road out for a little ride on Saturday--the Knoxville Double 
Century (204 miles, 12,000 feet of climbing, mid-90s temps).  I didn't get 
photos of them, but there were several other Rivendells on the ride, including 
an orange Ram and a very pretty Riv Road (with ... Gasp! .. a threadless 
steerer and carbon-fiber bars!).
Photos are here:  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624913992581/
I'm still working on captions, but most of them are there.--Eric
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org




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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread Travis
Speaking as someone with somewhat troublesome knees, I cannot stand
having my saddle height any lower than even 1-2 cm below my highest
tolerable position. If I'm not getting a full extension with my quad I
have a sensation of holding my breath in my knees. Also, your legs are
strongest at the top of your extension.

The real difference between TT, racing, and touring saddle positions
is fore-to-aft. Having your saddle further forward is more efficient
but less comfortable. When sliding your saddle back for comfort you
must also lose some height to reproduce the same distance from saddle
top to pedal. That triathlete type may not know the difference and was
just assuming all saddle positions should be equal. Also, increases in
flexibility allow an increase in saddle height.

On Sep 27, 10:43 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 Very impressed with the effort some of you put into finding optimal
 seat height.

 I eyeball it when setting up the bike then make sure I have the
 appropriate seat post adjusting tool with me the first few rides
 (usually have this in any event - cepting the bike with the Pitlock
 binder.)

 On Sep 27, 9:12 am, sjauch sja...@gmail.com wrote:

  Saddle height is very person specific. I went with Riv method of PBH
  minus 10 for a saddle height of 72cm. Earlier this year I developed
  knee pain that prevented me from riding for 2 months. I went to a
  fitter who raised my saddle by 1.5cm and it has made a world of
  difference. This was in addition to adjusting the cleats on my shoes.

  It can't hurt to play around. The fitter had my bike hooked up to some
  fancy trainer that measured watt output and noticed an increase with
  the changed made. It was a pretty interesting experience.

  On Sep 27, 5:55 am, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.com wrote:

   Another thing is that triathletes usually have their saddles placed 
   farther
   forward and higher up than do road riders - different strokes for 
   different
   sports!  His advice might not be right for you.

   On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:53 AM, Ken Freeman 
   kenfreeman...@gmail.comwrote:

I start with my PBH measurement, then multiply by 1.09.  I set the 
saddle
to this height measuring along the seat tube from the axis of the pedal 
to
the top of the saddle with the lower crank arm in line with the seat 
tube.
I do this with the saddle level and centered on the saddle clamp.  Then 
I
ride-test it.

Usually the bars are already in the correct position for me, which is 
about
2 cm below the saddle.  If not, I change them.

After this I have some rules for troubleshooting.  I don't know if I 
should
go into detail.

The best shop fitting I had was when the coach used a goniometer to 
measure
and set my knee angle at pedal bottom - between 25 and 30 degrees is the
usual convention.  This fitter used KOPS to set the saddle fore/aft
position.

The most critical thing is to get as much leg extension as you can 
without
causing your hips to rock painfully.

Will the simple knee extension rule do it for you?  Only you can find 
out,
but if another good rider says, you look a little low, it's 
reasonable to
see if going up, maybe 1/8 inch at a time, does you any good without 
adding
negatives - there are a lot of ways to look at it these days.

Sometimes it takes a few hours or days to tell if a change brings 
negative
effects with it.  Try to mark or record your old position to be able to 
go
back to the old position if it doesn't work.  There is such a thing as 
going
too far too fast with a change, having some pain, and needing to go 
back to
where you were.  Sometimes you need to do this while out on a ride.  
Think
of that classic professional rider (forgot who) who carried 
wrenches to
set his saddle in the middle of TdF stages!

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:16 AM, travis.ha...@gmail.com 
travis.ha...@gmail.com wrote:

2 centimeters, 4/5 of an inch? That's quite a bit. Did anyone ever
offer observation to you that your hips were rocking when you
pedaled?

The other rule of foot-length is that heels just touching the pedals
when the leg is fully extended implies the right bend at the knee
when the distance from heel to place-of-foot over pedal is added. That
said, common advice is that for many riders,  moving cleats a bit
behind the ball of the foot instead of under them is a better, if not
most powerful position. That would imply a lower saddle, but just
several mm. lower.

On Sep 27, 10:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
 If you want to double check, you could measure your pubic bone height
 (PBH) using the method on the rivendell site and then apply their
 formula for seat height, which is PBH minus 10-10.5cm.  I did this
 recently and ended up lowering my saddles 

[RBW] Carrdice Nelson, SQR and Midge have been claimed. Thanks for the interest.

2010-09-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Backpack maker mentioned in an old Reader?

2010-09-27 Thread Jeffrey
Grant was supporting a backpack manufacturer in a Riv Reader I once
read. Can somebody save me a little time and tell me if they recall
who that maker may be? I remember he touted them because they (the
designer) were first to develop a frameless pack (IIRC). They went out
of business for a time, then resurrected and now work out of the
Northwest, (I believe). I would like to support and Originator.

Jeff

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[RBW] Re: Backpack maker mentioned in an old Reader?

2010-09-27 Thread cyclofiend
There may have been others (away from the archives right now), but you
might be thinking of this:

http://www.rivbike.com/rivendell_trivia

Rivendell Mountain Works  Jensen pack

- J

On Sep 27, 8:38 am, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant was supporting a backpack manufacturer in a Riv Reader I once
 read. Can somebody save me a little time and tell me if they recall
 who that maker may be? I remember he touted them because they (the
 designer) were first to develop a frameless pack (IIRC). They went out
 of business for a time, then resurrected and now work out of the
 Northwest, (I believe). I would like to support and Originator.

 Jeff

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Re: [RBW] Backpack maker mentioned in an old Reader?

2010-09-27 Thread Bill Connell
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 10:38 AM, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant was supporting a backpack manufacturer in a Riv Reader I once
 read. Can somebody save me a little time and tell me if they recall
 who that maker may be? I remember he touted them because they (the
 designer) were first to develop a frameless pack (IIRC). They went out
 of business for a time, then resurrected and now work out of the
 Northwest, (I believe). I would like to support and Originator.


It's their namesake, Rivendell Mountain Works:
http://rivendellmountainworks.com/

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: finished hunqapillar build

2010-09-27 Thread erik jensen
i took the hunqapillar out for a ride yesterday, and aside from coming down
with some sort of flu out in the middle of briones, all was great. The 2.35
big apples roll over most anything, it was a bit crazy to find myself
picking out the most difficult line for a change. quite a bit different than
the 38mm slicks i've been using on the atlantis. they're heavy though, so i
might look for something a bit skinnier just to help speed things up
slightly. but as it is, the bike seems to beg you into trying to stop it and
doesn't fail in the role.

i love the mordor feel attribution, it certainly looks and feels the part.

here's a build list:

*cockpit*: bullmoose bars, paul thumbies, tektro levers.
*wheels*: front, phil touring 36h mavic a719 -- rear, xtr 32h t517 (had both
sitting around, hence the odd spoke imbalance, good enough though with large
tires!)
*drivetrain*: white industries wide range double (40x24), xt cassette
(11-34), tiagra front + xt rear derailleurs
*brakes*: front, paul components neo retro -- rear, empella froglegs
nitto 83 seatpost, brooks.

most all of this was used, which helped keep the cost down.

patrick, the white industries crank has a variable bolt diameter--the inner
ring mounts where it needs to along a continuous groove.

again, thanks for all the positive comments. i'm flattered but i must insist
that the real credit is due to those who crafted the frame and parts!

looking forward to many rides!

erik

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[RBW] Re: Backpack maker mentioned in an old Reader?

2010-09-27 Thread Angus
http://rivendellmountainworks.com/thanks.html

Mentions Grant.

Angus

On Sep 27, 12:19 pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 10:38 AM, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
  Grant was supporting a backpack manufacturer in a Riv Reader I once
  read. Can somebody save me a little time and tell me if they recall
  who that maker may be? I remember he touted them because they (the
  designer) were first to develop a frameless pack (IIRC). They went out
  of business for a time, then resurrected and now work out of the
  Northwest, (I believe). I would like to support and Originator.

 It's their namesake, Rivendell Mountain 
 Works:http://rivendellmountainworks.com/

 --
 Bill Connell
 St. Paul, MN

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Re: [RBW] Re: finished hunqapillar build

2010-09-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I must look into that WI crankset.

I've found that the BAs roll very well for their bulk; they even climb
surprisingly well -- and I've paired mine with 780 gram 45 mm rims --
and this even at absurdly low pressures -- sub 15/sub 20. Yesterday I
was maintaining 18 mph on pavement (as well as on firm gravel) with
the effort that gives me 19 or 20 on the narrow tire'd, much lighter
Rivendells. Hell, I think that the Fargo with these tires is as fast
as the Sam HIll with 33 mm JB greens.

And, of course, it is amazing what you can ride over with 60 MM + of soft tire.

I'd love to compare a Hunk with the Fargo equipped with the same
wheels, but alas, no chance of that.


On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 11:32 AM, erik jensen bicyclen...@gmail.com wrote:
 i took the hunqapillar out for a ride yesterday, and aside from coming down
 with some sort of flu out in the middle of briones, all was great. The 2.35
 big apples roll over most anything, it was a bit crazy to find myself
 picking out the most difficult line for a change. quite a bit different than
 the 38mm slicks i've been using on the atlantis. they're heavy though, so i
 might look for something a bit skinnier just to help speed things up
 slightly. but as it is, the bike seems to beg you into trying to stop it and
 doesn't fail in the role.
 i love the mordor feel attribution, it certainly looks and feels the part.
 here's a build list:
 cockpit: bullmoose bars, paul thumbies, tektro levers.
 wheels: front, phil touring 36h mavic a719 -- rear, xtr 32h t517 (had both
 sitting around, hence the odd spoke imbalance, good enough though with large
 tires!)
 drivetrain: white industries wide range double (40x24), xt cassette (11-34),
 tiagra front + xt rear derailleurs
 brakes: front, paul components neo retro -- rear, empella froglegs
 nitto 83 seatpost, brooks.
 most all of this was used, which helped keep the cost down.
 patrick, the white industries crank has a variable bolt diameter--the inner
 ring mounts where it needs to along a continuous groove.
 again, thanks for all the positive comments. i'm flattered but i must insist
 that the real credit is due to those who crafted the frame and parts!
 looking forward to many rides!
 erik

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Backpack maker mentioned in an old Reader?

2010-09-27 Thread JoelMatthews
I have one.  They are made to order.  Not as luxe as some of the new
fangled offerings on the market, but very nice and comfortable to use.

On Sep 27, 10:38 am, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant was supporting a backpack manufacturer in a Riv Reader I once
 read. Can somebody save me a little time and tell me if they recall
 who that maker may be? I remember he touted them because they (the
 designer) were first to develop a frameless pack (IIRC). They went out
 of business for a time, then resurrected and now work out of the
 Northwest, (I believe). I would like to support and Originator.

 Jeff

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[RBW] Re: Reminder: Garage Sale and Ride

2010-09-27 Thread reidplum
Can anyone tell me the mileage from Riv WHQ to the top of Mt. Diablo?
I'm considering the ride. And yes, I know that the hard part is
elevation gain, not mileage, but with elevation (that I know) and
mileage, I can gauge just how much I'll embarass myself if I try the
ride. Thanks!

Reid

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Re: [RBW] Re: Reminder: Garage Sale and Ride

2010-09-27 Thread Anne Paulson
About fourteen miles. Google Maps is your friend.

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 11:10 AM, reidplum rubye.cerve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can anyone tell me the mileage from Riv WHQ to the top of Mt. Diablo?
 I'm considering the ride. And yes, I know that the hard part is
 elevation gain, not mileage, but with elevation (that I know) and
 mileage, I can gauge just how much I'll embarass myself if I try the
 ride. Thanks!




-- 
-- Anne Paulson

My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Not-so-small renovelo updates

2010-09-27 Thread RoadieRyan
Wow love that blue -looks like its going to be a gorgeous bike look
forward to the final build photos.

Chapeau on making the choice to get the one you really wanted  I
have too often settled for something that was mostly what I wanted
and then thought maybe I should have bought X  rather than enjoying
the y version I actually got.

I don't think you will have any second guessing on the Homer

Ryan

W. Seattle

On Sep 27, 9:53 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 So, things have changed quite a bit since Sept 4.

 The Renovelo frameset that I picked up had a couple issues.  Issues
 that were hard to detect until you started building the bike.  Anyhow,
 Riv totally started handling them as you'd expect.  As that process
 was underway, I had a conversation with Keven about the bike I really
 wanted, had been saving up for, and that this Renovelo was
 functionally replacing.  Waiting for repair work allowed me to
 contemplate my age and the amount of time I expect to have the bike,
 and the likelihood of ever buying another bike like it.  One thing led
 to another, and I went ahead and asked Keven to apply the price I paid
 to a 650B 58cm A. Homer Hilsen instead.  Keven was more than
 gracious.  I think that the black Renovelo that I bought will likely
 come up again from Riv, but probably as a complete bike, so they can
 recoup the additional expense they will be putting into it.

 Anyhow, I'm now a Hilsen 650B owner.  This is the prettiest frame I've
 ever seen.  Of the two Hilsen blues, this is the lighter shade,
 slightly metallic and with a subtle pearl that you have to get into
 direct sun to really appreciate.  I got about 80% through the build,
 and had to head out of the country for work.  I get back Friday
 afternoon.  It will be a longshot to finish the build and defeat
 jetlag to have it with me for the Mt Diablo ride on the 2nd of
 October.

 There are a couple of photos on my flickr.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/5022081484/

 On Sep 4, 5:49 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:



  very nice Bill. I didn't even spot this. The early bird gets the worm
  I guess.

  Though I'm busy plotting upgrades to my new-to-me Ram.   New paint,
  brakes, wheels etc.

  ~Mike

  On Sep 3, 4:24 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

   I added a phone photo of the headtube to my flickr:

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758...@n04/4955037653/

   On Sep 3, 1:18 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:14 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Seth

 I'll do that tonight.  Jay told me that they were thinking of making
 the head tube decal into a proper head badge.  I'm hoping they follow
 through with that.  It sounds like it'll come down to dollars.  I
 offered to pay my part.

dude, with the money you saved by buying arenoveloframe see if you
can get one of the various headbadge makers to make one for you. I'm
sure riv would love to see a custom one cut like that.

-sv- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: finished hunqapillar build

2010-09-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I must save for one of those. I've been hassling myself trying to make
a 44/30 double for the Fargo without widening the Q any more than it
currently is (160) with the XD2 and the 113 mm Tange. I can't run the
44 and 30 in the inner positions because they then butt up against the
stay before they get half tight. On the outer positions, of course, I
can only go down to a 34.

The VBC would fit the frame with the existing 113 with room to spare
(only 121 mm across the stays at the 8 point) and I expect it will
also give me a lower Q.

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 11:32 AM, erik jensen bicyclen...@gmail.com wrote:
 i took the hunqapillar out for a ride yesterday, and aside from coming down
 with some sort of flu out in the middle of briones, all was great. The 2.35
 big apples roll over most anything, it was a bit crazy to find myself
 picking out the most difficult line for a change. quite a bit different than
 the 38mm slicks i've been using on the atlantis. they're heavy though, so i
 might look for something a bit skinnier just to help speed things up
 slightly. but as it is, the bike seems to beg you into trying to stop it and
 doesn't fail in the role.
 i love the mordor feel attribution, it certainly looks and feels the part.
 here's a build list:
 cockpit: bullmoose bars, paul thumbies, tektro levers.
 wheels: front, phil touring 36h mavic a719 -- rear, xtr 32h t517 (had both
 sitting around, hence the odd spoke imbalance, good enough though with large
 tires!)
 drivetrain: white industries wide range double (40x24), xt cassette (11-34),
 tiagra front + xt rear derailleurs
 brakes: front, paul components neo retro -- rear, empella froglegs
 nitto 83 seatpost, brooks.
 most all of this was used, which helped keep the cost down.
 patrick, the white industries crank has a variable bolt diameter--the inner
 ring mounts where it needs to along a continuous groove.
 again, thanks for all the positive comments. i'm flattered but i must insist
 that the real credit is due to those who crafted the frame and parts!
 looking forward to many rides!
 erik

 --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread Ken Freeman
Waht was the relationship of the foot to the pedal in this recommendation.
It will make a big difference if the ball of the foot is on the pedal versus
the rear of the foot or heel.  Most modern discussions allow that there is
definitely such a thing as having too small of a knee angle at max
extension, with 25 degrees being a common minimum recommendation.  Whether
or thot that is just a wee bit of flex is beyond me.  I'd prefer to work
to the number or to use my elaborate method.  And, it didn't feel wee to
me when I was set up by this method.

The stress on knees from too little knee angle is in the back of the knee.
For too much knee angle, it's the back of the kneecap, felt in the front of
the knee.

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 11:31 AM, kevin lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.comwrote:

 David Wilson, in Bicycle Science (the bible of bicycle engineering),
 advocated no knee flex at 6:00, meaning that a rider seeking maximum
 efficiency should raise his or her saddle just a bit if his or her
 knee is slightly bent at that position.  Any flex there and you lose a
 significant amount of power from your stroke.  That's the theory.  In
 practice, as even Wilson admitted, you need just a wee bit of flex in
 order to avoid undue stress to the knees, if I recall correctly.  In
 essence, it's possible that the triathlete thought that your knee was
 bend a bit more than necessary and that your saddle could indeed come
 up.

 On Sep 26, 6:29 pm, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
  I rode my club's century today and as I was toiling up a hill, a young
  triathlete sort on a plastic thing (the tubes were not even round!)
  came by me and he said Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
  so you'll get more leverage.  Unsolicited advice is so cool.  My
  immediate thought was to tell him that I had been riding bikes since
  before he was born, but I've been trying to keep my mouth out of gear
  so I didn't say anything.  But then I started thinking that back in
  the day, the rule of thumb, at least as it was passed down to me, was
  that when the pedal is in the 6 o'clock position, the knee should be
  very slightly bent.  I've been doing that with every bike I've set up
  for lo these many years.  Was that wrong?  Has there been any progress
  in thinking on this subject?
  GeorgeS

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Ann Arbor, MI USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 9:27 AM, Travis travisbreitenb...@gmail.com wrote:


 Having your saddle further forward is more efficient
 but less comfortable.

Where did you get this information? That is not at all my experience,
which is wholly the contrary: pushing the saddle backward (I have mine
very far behind the bb) encourages a much more powerful stroke than a
far forward saddle -- I know, on Grant's advice I changed my saddle
from all the way forward (mistakenly chasing the elusive KOPS while
keeping a high saddle) to, now, all the way back (this over a period
of some 15 years) and find that the butt back position makes my stroke
far, far more powerful.

I had complained to Grant that, with a very forward saddle position, I
felt as if I were losing the stroke at the top. Now that I am behind
the bb, I have much more power over the top.

I'll agree with you about the more comfortable assertion.

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Re: [RBW] Re: finished hunqapillar build

2010-09-27 Thread John Speare
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 11:51 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I must save for one of those. I've been hassling myself trying to make
 a 44/30 double for the Fargo without widening the Q any more than it
 currently is (160) with the XD2 and the 113 mm Tange. I can't run the
 44 and 30 in the inner positions because they then butt up against the
 stay before they get half tight. On the outer positions, of course, I
 can only go down to a 34.


Hey Patrick,

A cheaper option might be to keep an eye out for the 94/58 bcd cranks.
Ritchey used to make them. They were the original compact crank.

With 94 BCD, 44/30 works well. I'm running this crank on my bike with
a 103 mm bb.

Another option is the Sakae 86 BCD crankset that used to ship on
mid-80's Trek tourers. The rings are deprecated, but lots of these
cranksets are around. I think the standard set up was 52/44/28 or
similar -- so removing the 52 and sliding the 44/28 over a slot works
well for a low-Q crank.

Finally: there's always the Sugino PX/Cyclotourist double set up.

I like 44/30-ish doubles and low tread, so I'll use all of these
cranks -- which can be found if you keep an eye out.

--
John Speare
Spokane, WA USA
http://cyclingspokane.blogspot.com/

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[RBW] Re: DaVinci Splitters - They're AWESOME!

2010-09-27 Thread sanjoser
nice bike

I'm interested in the front light setup.
what is that front light, how is it mounted on the
front rack, and where do I get one

best
tom savarino

On Sep 26, 2:53 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 I complete agree... they are really sweet. It's two bikes in one!

 And a nice bike it is: I sure like that Bombadil. Great tire choice.

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

 On Sep 25, 7:32 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  I was a bit skeptical at first, but I was not only able to set up two
  different handlebar configurations with DaVinci splitters, I was able
  to swap bars in 5 minutes, 41 seconds on the first try...  This is
  really sweet.  I'm doing a long ride tomorrow, and prefer to run the
  Noodles... I plan to swap back the bullmoose bars for commuting.

  Check out the photos:http://tinyurl.com/25y4xe7

  I used the DaVinci splitters for the shifters only.  For the brakes,
  since I'm running linear pull / V brakes, I just picked up an extra
  set of noodles, and disconnect the brake cables at the brakes... very
  simple and effective.  Each setup has its own set of downtube cable
  adjustors... makes it nice and easy.

  DaVinci splitters... I LIKE

  BB

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[RBW] Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread John Bennett
Jay, who is in charge, took a few pictures, just to give us all a hint
of what we can expect on Saturday.

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/garage-sale-october-2-2010/01-009

Hope to see you at 8:30 sharp, (but no sooner, so we can get it all
set up and be fair to everyone, especially the punctual).

Cheers,

John at RBW HQ

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[RBW] Re: Riv-Related Photos

2010-09-27 Thread ciaj
This ride completed my 21st consecutive California Triple Crown...

Jiminy cricket!


On Sep 27, 10:19 am, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 I took my Riv Road out for a little ride on Saturday--the Knoxville Double 
 Century (204 miles, 12,000 feet of climbing, mid-90s temps).  I didn't get 
 photos of them, but there were several other Rivendells on the ride, 
 including an orange Ram and a very pretty Riv Road (with ... Gasp! ... a 
 threadless steerer and carbon-fiber bars!).

 Photos are here:  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157624913992581/

 I'm still working on captions, but most of them are there.
 --Ericwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: Reminder: Garage Sale and Ride

2010-09-27 Thread Bruce Baker
Go to this link for distance and climb info...
http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/united-states/ca/walnut-creek/1185529077

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 2:30 PM, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.comwrote:

 About fourteen miles. Google Maps is your friend.

 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 11:10 AM, reidplum rubye.cerve...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  Can anyone tell me the mileage from Riv WHQ to the top of Mt. Diablo?
  I'm considering the ride. And yes, I know that the hard part is
  elevation gain, not mileage, but with elevation (that I know) and
  mileage, I can gauge just how much I'll embarass myself if I try the
  ride. Thanks!
 



 --
 -- Anne Paulson

 My hovercraft is full of eels

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Re: [RBW] Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread CycloFiend
on 9/27/10 2:26 PM, John Bennett at johnat...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jay, who is in charge, took a few pictures, just to give us all a hint
 of what we can expect on Saturday.
 
 http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/garage-sale-october-2-2010/01-009
 
 Hope to see you at 8:30 sharp, (but no sooner, so we can get it all
 set up and be fair to everyone, especially the punctual).

Temptress, thy name is Rivendell

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes



You must be the change you want to see in the world.
Mahatma Gandhi

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[RBW] WTB: Sackville SaddleSack-Medium (Grey)

2010-09-27 Thread Travis
If anyone has one in decent condition I'd be interested. A new
SaddleSack is a bit out of my price range. I'd prefer Grid Grey to
match my bike and other Sackville baggage.

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[RBW] VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread Adam Kimball
Hi,

In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
Certainly nice looking brakes..

-Adam

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Re: [RBW] Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread Seth Vidal
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 6:09 PM, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 9/27/10 2:26 PM, John Bennett at johnat...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jay, who is in charge, took a few pictures, just to give us all a hint
 of what we can expect on Saturday.

 http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/garage-sale-october-2-2010/01-009

 Hope to see you at 8:30 sharp, (but no sooner, so we can get it all
 set up and be fair to everyone, especially the punctual).

 Temptress, thy name is Rivendell


Cruel temptress is more like it.

If anyone wants to bring their laptop and do a little video tour
garage sale via google video-chat w/me - feel free to drop me an
email.
8:30am PDT is 11:30am my time so I should be awake. :)

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread James Warren
I'm was coming anyway, but nonetheless, evil I say, EVIL.


On Sep 27, 2010, at 2:26 PM, John Bennett wrote:

 Jay, who is in charge, took a few pictures, just to give us all a hint
 of what we can expect on Saturday.
 
 http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/garage-sale-october-2-2010/01-009
 
 Hope to see you at 8:30 sharp, (but no sooner, so we can get it all
 set up and be fair to everyone, especially the punctual).
 
 Cheers,
 
 John at RBW HQ
 
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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread RonaTD
 Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
 so you'll get more leverage.

More leverage from a higher saddle? I'd like to see the physics that
validates that assertion.

td

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Re: [RBW] Re: my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread James Warren
Leslie,
Perfect bike. It looks you are getting the most out of the fender and tire 
room. What size tires are those?

-Jim W.


On Sep 27, 2010, at 7:55 AM, Leslie wrote:

 I hadn't noticed that the lugs had changed;  mine has the pointy-lugs
 like the Hilsen instead of the swoopy Atlantis-like ones.  (I had
 noticed the mid-stay mounts, etc., but haven't used them yet...
 (
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/4407972696/in/set-72157623199721925/#/photos/leslie_bright/4407972696/in/set-72157623199721925/lightbox/
 ). )
 
 On Sep 27, 12:36 am, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 There was a very special Hilsen-like run of Rams at the end. They had the 
 lugs just like the Hilsen and the fork crown too. (It seems that Atlantises 
 have these features now too.) More importantly, that last set of Rams also 
 had mounts on the fork and seatstays for mini-racks. Pretty sweet bikes.
 
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[RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread Justin August
I am Grand Crurious myself...but I don't think they would work on the
Bleriot - and they don't open very wide, comparatively.

On Sep 27, 6:35 pm, Adam Kimball adamfkimb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
 Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
 that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
 they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
 than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
 Certainly nice looking brakes..

 -Adam

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread EricP
Definitely evil.  Especially as I'm half a country away.  Wonder what
the tweed bag is?  And if I could fit in any of that clothing.

Ah well.  I'd really be humiliated on that climb.  Good enough reason
not to go.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Sep 27, 6:28 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I'm was coming anyway, but nonetheless, evil I say, EVIL.


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Re: [RBW] VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread James Valiensi
Hi,
I just got a set. They replace the Shimano BR600 long reach I had on my 
Rivendell. I switched o Campagnolo on that bike and didn't want to mix Shimano 
 Campy (but off-brands are OK?!)
The brakes are very nicely made. The pads are a very good quality. They open a 
very slight more amount than the Shimano's did. They modulate and stop to my 
liking. They were 20grams lighter than the BR600's - like anyone on this list 
would care about such no sense, but I like using my digital scale!
(I tried the Silver's/Techno's one time on this bike and was not pleased with 
their stopping power.)

Somewhere on the internet, I saw the same exact brakes under a different brand 
name on a nice bike.

On Sep 27, 2010, at 3:35 PM, Adam Kimball wrote:

 Hi,
 
 In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
 Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
 that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
 they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
 than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
 Certainly nice looking brakes..
 
 -Adam
 
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James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



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Re: [RBW] Re: Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread erik jensen
anyone planning or hoping to ride trails down? we could form the rear guard
on the road slog, and enjoy some splendid riding on the way down.

erik hopes to justify 60mm tires this weekend

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 5:27 PM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:

 Definitely evil.  Especially as I'm half a country away.  Wonder what
 the tweed bag is?  And if I could fit in any of that clothing.

 Ah well.  I'd really be humiliated on that climb.  Good enough reason
 not to go.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Sep 27, 6:28 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
  I'm was coming anyway, but nonetheless, evil I say, EVIL.
 

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-- 
oakland, ca
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[RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread JoelMatthews
 I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better  than Silvers and Paul's. 
 Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?

Paul Racers have been around for years, have a very loyal following,
and stop bikes as well as any rim brake made.  The Crus are brand new
to the market, dual pivot not center pull, not as robust as the Pauls,
and in my opinion anyway (and having only seen the Crus on line),
nowhere near as good looking.

Under the circumstances I have not a clue how anyone can confirm VO's
puffery. Certainly it is impossible to say the Crus will be as durable
as the Pauls. The best one can say is that it would be an amazing
feat, indeed, if the Crus are better than Paul.

To put things in perspective, when VO was selling custom made
Randonnuers instead of the stock frames (which it is dropping in any
event) it offered Paul's at a discount with the frame purchase.  I
seem to recall the VO text saying Paul's were the best brakes out
there.

On Sep 27, 5:35 pm, Adam Kimball adamfkimb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
 Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
 that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
 they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
 than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
 Certainly nice looking brakes..

 -Adam

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[RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread amoll68
Haven't used them on a bike, but FWIW, I've fondled them in the VO
showroom and was fairly impressed with the quality and value.

I already rub Paul's on my AHH, and think they're great.

Alex Moll
Marysville, WA

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread cm
Maybe once, just once, one time for all of us who arent in the WC RBW
WHQ vicinity, they could do a virtual garage sale. Too much of a
pain?  Maybe, but come onjust one time. Riv is an internet/mail
order business, right? We are its internet/ mail order customers,
right? (said in the nicest, most pleading way possible-- basically
begging).

There just looks to be so much good mysterious stuff in all those
piles.

Cheers!
cm

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[RBW] Re: Riv-Related Photos

2010-09-27 Thread cm
Great Pics. Looks like a great ride.

I see you have an Element. My bike and I have spent many nights in my
Element. Best bike car ever?

Cheers!
cm

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread cyclotourist
I was writing back and forth with someone who has them, replacing the
Tektro/Silver (556???)  long reach models.  They said the stopping power was
great, no mushiness at all, but that you had to deflate wide tires to get
them in.  For them, that was worth it.

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 6:20 PM, amoll68 amol...@comcast.net wrote:

 Haven't used them on a bike, but FWIW, I've fondled them in the VO
 showroom and was fairly impressed with the quality and value.

 I already rub Paul's on my AHH, and think they're great.

 Alex Moll
 Marysville, WA

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David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread Ken Yokanovich
It does look like some good stuff, but I imagine that they wound up
with a lot of it due to picky unhappy customers in some variety or
another.  I used to manage operations at catalog retailer at one point
in my life and we offered grab bags of product at different price
points.  Amazingly, they sold very well and there were very low
returns even though we were willing to accept them.

It'd be kind of fun to buy a $50 grab bag of bike stuff from the
garage sale just to see what one might wind up with.  I think it'd be
fun to drop by for the sale and a bike ride to boot.

On Sep 27, 8:27 pm, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Maybe once, just once, one time for all of us who arent in the WC RBW
 WHQ vicinity, they could do a virtual garage sale. Too much of a
 pain?  Maybe, but come onjust one time. Riv is an internet/mail
 order business, right? We are its internet/ mail order customers,
 right? (said in the nicest, most pleading way possible-- basically
 begging).

 There just looks to be so much good mysterious stuff in all those
 piles.

 Cheers!
 cm

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread Philip Williamson
This is exactly what I was thinking, right down to the price point.
iCycles has a $5 Box of Crap you can buy off their website. I think
a $50 'rab 'ag would be a lot of fun, possibly with a flurry of
trading after.

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com


On Sep 27, 7:28 pm, Ken Yokanovich reflector.collec...@gmail.com
wrote:
 It does look like some good stuff, but I imagine that they wound up
 with a lot of it due to picky unhappy customers in some variety or
 another.  I used to manage operations at catalog retailer at one point
 in my life and we offered grab bags of product at different price
 points.  Amazingly, they sold very well and there were very low
 returns even though we were willing to accept them.

 It'd be kind of fun to buy a $50 grab bag of bike stuff from the
 garage sale just to see what one might wind up with.  I think it'd be
 fun to drop by for the sale and a bike ride to boot.

 On Sep 27, 8:27 pm, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote:

  Maybe once, just once, one time for all of us who arent in the WC RBW
  WHQ vicinity, they could do a virtual garage sale. Too much of a
  pain?  Maybe, but come onjust one time. Riv is an internet/mail
  order business, right? We are its internet/ mail order customers,
  right? (said in the nicest, most pleading way possible-- basically
  begging).

  There just looks to be so much good mysterious stuff in all those
  piles.

  Cheers!
  cm

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread James Valiensi
Hi,
I've had the Paul's Racers and now the Crus. The Crus stop better and don't 
squeal, at least that has been my experience.
I don't see why the Crus would not be as durable as the Paul's. 
Both brakes are CNC machined from aluminum plate. They are not forged or cast.
Time will tell though, but the Crus are much cheaper.
Cheers!
On Sep 27, 2010, at 6:15 PM, JoelMatthews wrote:

  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better  than Silvers and 
 Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
 
 Paul Racers have been around for years, have a very loyal following,
 and stop bikes as well as any rim brake made.  The Crus are brand new
 to the market, dual pivot not center pull, not as robust as the Pauls,
 and in my opinion anyway (and having only seen the Crus on line),
 nowhere near as good looking.
 
 Under the circumstances I have not a clue how anyone can confirm VO's
 puffery. Certainly it is impossible to say the Crus will be as durable
 as the Pauls. The best one can say is that it would be an amazing
 feat, indeed, if the Crus are better than Paul.
 
 To put things in perspective, when VO was selling custom made
 Randonnuers instead of the stock frames (which it is dropping in any
 event) it offered Paul's at a discount with the frame purchase.  I
 seem to recall the VO text saying Paul's were the best brakes out
 there.
 
 On Sep 27, 5:35 pm, Adam Kimball adamfkimb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,
 
 In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
 Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
 that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
 they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
 than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
 Certainly nice looking brakes..
 
 -Adam
 
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James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



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Re: [RBW] Re: Speaking of the garage sale,

2010-09-27 Thread cyclotourist
So how was the riding?



On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 7:48 PM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is exactly what I was thinking, right down to the price point.
 iCycles has a $5 Box of Crap you can buy off their website. I think
 a $50 'rab 'ag would be a lot of fun, possibly with a flurry of
 trading after.

  Philip Williamson
 www.biketinker.com


 On Sep 27, 7:28 pm, Ken Yokanovich reflector.collec...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  It does look like some good stuff, but I imagine that they wound up
  with a lot of it due to picky unhappy customers in some variety or
  another.  I used to manage operations at catalog retailer at one point
  in my life and we offered grab bags of product at different price
  points.  Amazingly, they sold very well and there were very low
  returns even though we were willing to accept them.
 
  It'd be kind of fun to buy a $50 grab bag of bike stuff from the
  garage sale just to see what one might wind up with.  I think it'd be
  fun to drop by for the sale and a bike ride to boot.
 
  On Sep 27, 8:27 pm, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
   Maybe once, just once, one time for all of us who arent in the WC RBW
   WHQ vicinity, they could do a virtual garage sale. Too much of a
   pain?  Maybe, but come onjust one time. Riv is an internet/mail
   order business, right? We are its internet/ mail order customers,
   right? (said in the nicest, most pleading way possible-- basically
   begging).
 
   There just looks to be so much good mysterious stuff in all those
   piles.
 
   Cheers!
   cm

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: New Thoughts on Saddle Height?

2010-09-27 Thread GeorgeS
Come to think of it, the guy did look like he spent a lot more time on
the bike than in the books.  I'm a lawyer, so the only leverage I
recognize doesn't involve mechanics.
GeorgeS

On Sep 27, 6:28 pm, RonaTD teddur...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
  Sir, you might want to raise your seat a bit
  so you'll get more leverage.

 More leverage from a higher saddle? I'd like to see the physics that
 validates that assertion.

 td

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[RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread Michael_S
I've gotten feedback from a few who've used them. Both said they were
far better in stiffness and modulation than either the ShimaNo or the
Tektros.  I'm about ready to buy a pair for my new-to-me Ram. The only
down side I've heard is that the Tektro's open wider. With a Tektro
lever with the QR button they will barely clear a Jack Brown was what
I heard. M Racers open wider.  The Pauls look incredible but I wanted
to stay with sidepulls on this bike ( got Paul braze-on's on the
Randonneuse)

~Mike~

On Sep 27, 8:24 pm, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Hi,
 I've had the Paul's Racers and now the Crus. The Crus stop better and don't 
 squeal, at least that has been my experience.
 I don't see why the Crus would not be as durable as the Paul's.
 Both brakes are CNC machined from aluminum plate. They are not forged or 
 castTime will tell though, but the Crus are much cheaper.
 Cheers!
 On Sep 27, 2010, at 6:15 PM, JoelMatthews wrote:





   I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better  than Silvers and 
  Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?

  Paul Racers have been around for years, have a very loyal following,
  and stop bikes as well as any rim brake made.  The Crus are brand new
  to the market, dual pivot not center pull, not as robust as the Pauls,
  and in my opinion anyway (and having only seen the Crus on line),
  nowhere near as good looking.

  Under the circumstances I have not a clue how anyone can confirm VO's
  puffery. Certainly it is impossible to say the Crus will be as durable
  as the Pauls. The best one can say is that it would be an amazing
  feat, indeed, if the Crus are better than Paul.

  To put things in perspective, when VO was selling custom made
  Randonnuers instead of the stock frames (which it is dropping in any
  event) it offered Paul's at a discount with the frame purchase.  I
  seem to recall the VO text saying Paul's were the best brakes out
  there.

  On Sep 27, 5:35 pm, Adam Kimball adamfkimb...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hi,

  In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
  Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
  that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
  they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
  than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
  Certainly nice looking brakes..

  -Adam

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 James Valiensi, PE
 Northridge, CA
 H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Honolulu Century Ride! (well half of it anyway)

2010-09-27 Thread Robert F. Harrison
Yesterday was the Honolulu Century Ride, an often lovely (and sometimes not
so much) lovely ride from Kapiolani Park at the base of Diamond Head north
along the coast to Ka'a'awa and back. To be honest I prefer the Haleiwa
Metric Century, not because it's shorter, but because it's all out in the
country and one doesn't have to ride though so many suburbs and parts of
Kaneohe. Still it can be a good time, especially on a Quickbeam.

Sadly I wasn't able to ride the entire hundred miles yesterday. I had
obligations in the afternoon which meant I had to stop at 50. However,
instead of doing 25 miles and turning around to retrace my steps I chose to
ride the entire route out to Ka'a'awa and take the sag wagon back...our sag
wagon being our regular bus system known as TheBus. For $2.50 my bike and I
got a pretty quick ride back to town and I could make my appointment. All
our buses have bike racks these days so it's a great way of riding out and
not having to worry about back.

My Quickbeam is setup with the regular 40-32 up front and in back I've got a
16-19 DOS and a bailout 22 on the other side of the wheel. I used the 22
this weekend our own 'heartbreak hill.' Normally I take side road which
avoids the steep climb and opt for a longer shallower climb but the route
took us up the hill. I only mention this because I didn't take pictures on
the ride, not wanting to take breaks and cut into the time I did have for
riding.

As luck would have it someone else caught me in a picture at the bottom of
the 'hb hill' as I was flipping my wheel. You can't tell it's me unless you
know the way I dress, but there's a bit of my back and wee bit of my front
wheel with fender.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_xXnIGRxDyQ0/TJ-_sM2vtnI/DoE/4bS8xwa00eY/s1600/DSCN3498_edited-1.jpg

Here's the blog I found it on...

http://theflattire.blogspot.com/2010/09/honolulu-century-ride-short-version.html


I think I saw about 5 other bikes (out of thousands) with fenders.  I saw no
other Rivs but mine got quite a few comments. There were some other riders
without derailleurs out there...but their bikes didn't look as comfortable
as mine. :-)

Anyway I had a great time but I do wish I'd had time for the whole 100.

Aloha!



-- 
Robert Harrison
rfharri...@gmail.com
statrix.statrix.com

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[RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread charlie
IMHO its all about the pads which are easily changed. Really now.
its a mechanical clamp squeezing two rubber pads onto an aluminum rim.
The only thing that might affect stopping power is the riders hand
strength. The amount of flex increases with the length of the arm if
its not made thicker or if the shape is not modified but I don't see
how that can affect stopping power, feel maybe but not sheer stopping
power. Looks and precision construction are another matter. I can't
see how any imported brake would match the Paul brakes in that
department unless they set out to make a more expensive brake that
would directly compete in the first place. I'm not even sure how
anyone could test a brake for its stopping power while riding it
without inflicting some hand operated bias. If a machine were made
that spun a 300 pound wheel at 25 mph and mechanically squeezed a
particular brand of brake/pad you could then measure the stopping
power accurately enough. Otherwise the better brake idea is kind of a
subjective one. I say buy what you like they are just brakes.

On Sep 27, 3:35 pm, Adam Kimball adamfkimb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
 Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
 that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
 they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
 than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
 Certainly nice looking brakes..

 -Adam

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[RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread Michael_S
Brake calipers are more sophisticated than you think. And the place of
origin has nothing to do with how well they work. Pauls are well
designed and made, and considerably more expensive.  The design or the
caliper and the cross sectional area of the arm can certainly make a
difference in mechanical advantage.

~Mike~

On Sep 27, 10:06 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 IMHO its all about the pads which are easily changed. Really now.
 its a mechanical clamp squeezing two rubber pads onto an aluminum rim.
 The only thing that might affect stopping power is the riders hand
 strength. The amount of flex increases with the length of the arm if
 its not made thicker or if the shape is not modified but I don't see
 how that can affect stopping power, feel maybe but not sheer stopping
 power. Looks and precision construction are another matter. I can't
 see how any imported brake would match the Paul brakes in that
 department unless they set out to make a more expensive brake that
 would directly compete in the first place. I'm not even sure how
 anyone could test a brake for its stopping power while riding it
 without inflicting some hand operated bias. If a machine were made
 that spun a 300 pound wheel at 25 mph and mechanically squeezed a
 particular brand of brake/pad you could then measure the stopping
 power accurately enough. Otherwise the better brake idea is kind of a
 subjective one. I say buy what you like they are just brakes.

 On Sep 27, 3:35 pm, Adam Kimball adamfkimb...@gmail.com wrote:



  Hi,

  In my search for the best brakes, I've been thinking about trying the
  Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes.  In their marketing copy they mention
  that the brakes are the best of every other long-reach brake caliper
  they have tried.  I'd take that to mean VO believes them to be better
  than Silvers and Paul's.  Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?
  Certainly nice looking brakes..

  -Adam- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread Eric
Where can I find the mount for the front headlight that you have?

It's great!

On Sep 27, 6:33 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Leslie,
 Perfect bike. It looks you are getting the most out of the fender and tire 
 room. What size tires are those?

 -Jim W.

 On Sep 27, 2010, at 7:55 AM, Leslie wrote:

  I hadn't noticed that the lugs had changed;  mine has the pointy-lugs
  like the Hilsen instead of the swoopy Atlantis-like ones.  (I had
  noticed the mid-stay mounts, etc., but haven't used them yet...
  (
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/4407972696/in/set-72157623...
  ). )

  On Sep 27, 12:36 am, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
  There was a very special Hilsen-like run of Rams at the end. They had the 
  lugs just like the Hilsen and the fork crown too. (It seems that 
  Atlantises have these features now too.) More importantly, that last set 
  of Rams also had mounts on the fork and seatstays for mini-racks. Pretty 
  sweet bikes.

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[RBW] Re: VO Grand Cru long reach brakes?

2010-09-27 Thread Jon
I have them and like them a great deal. To be fair to VO's marketing
copy, best of their kind may mean standard reach dual calipers so
they may not be comparing themselves to centerpulls. Even ignoring
that, at the time VO released their Grand Crus the Paul Racer M's
weren't available, only the original long-reach variety.

That said, if I were picking parts now, I'd probably spend the extra
cash for the Paul Racer M's because I do think they're prettier, like
centerpulls, and enjoy spoiling my Rambouillet.

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[RBW] Re: my Rambouillet- some new pics

2010-09-27 Thread Art Lewy
I'll second the question on tire size.  Also, how is the fender
attached to thet top of the fork?

On Sep 26, 9:04 pm, BykMor byk...@gmail.com wrote:
 My green Rambouillet is finally (almost) complete and it was a nice
 day out so I took a few pictures.

 Hopefully the link to my Picasa site will suffice.

 http://picasaweb.google.com/bykmor/RacingRivRam910?feat=directlink

 Fairly traditional build, but perked it up with some Paul's centerpull
 brakes, Honjo fenders and a Schmidt/Phil wheel combo by Peter White.

 The rear light is not wired quite yet, hence the battery light that I
 needed for the Salt to Saint Relay (Salt Lake City, UT to Saint
 George, UT) I did last weekend. The bike performed marvelously and our
 team did the 401 miles in just over 20 hours.

 A leather mud flap will bring the front fender reach down a bit, but I
 wanted a little more fender forward, as well as the ability to load
 the bike on a fork mount rack, which a low front fender sometimes
 precludes.

 Cheers,
 BykMor

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