VACList-Digest Tuesday, November 13, 2001 Issue 122
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Battery Boxes
2. Norcold recalls
3. Re: catalytic heaters
4. Re: Help! Furnace Cover for a '62 Bambi
5. (no subject)
6. plywood floor & curved windows
7. plywood floor & curved windows
8. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
9. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
10. Furnace & refrigerator manuals
11. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
12. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
13. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
14. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
15. 67 GT Trunk
16. 67 GT battery bow
17. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
18. Re: 67 GT Trunk
19. Re: 67 GT Trunk
20. Re: (no subject)
21. Survey
22. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
23. Plastic tambour
24. Re: Survey
25. More 12v lighting stuff
26. Re: Survey
27. Re: (no subject)
28. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
29. Re: 67 GT Trunk
30. Re: More 12v lighting stuff
31. Re: Survey
32. Re: More 12v lighting stuff
33. Re: Survey
34. Re: Trailer Attributes Survey Form...
35. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
36. Re: Survey
37. Re: (no subject)
38. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
39. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
40. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
41. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
42. Re: Trailer Attributes Survey Form...
43. Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#597915423: VINTAGE 1957
AIRSTREAM TRAVEL TRAILER CAMPER
44. Re: Plastic tambour
45. Old Silver Streak Clipper
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 20:32:12 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Boxes
Hi Jim
The gel cells I bought were by concord (as I remember,trailers not hereso I cant
go look) and were 96 dollars each , which is more ,but not that expensive,and were
the most amp hrs that would fit in my space in the middle bin under the bed .They
sat over axle there on the frame .Where I did spend the loot was on the charge
controller ,a solar boost 2000 (200 buck) but that gets more amps per hour from
the panels ,especially in cloudy days.
I`m all solar at 12 volts ,I dont even use the umbilical ,as my hydro flame is
gravity vented .I boondock alot up here in the sticks.
Will be camping the next few days , should be chilly in themornings !
Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>
>
> You're correct that a proper 3-stage charger will minimize the hydrogen
> generation. A clue is how much water the battery uses; if it's a lot,
> you're creating quite a bit of gas, if it's minimal, there should be
> little gas accumulation. As you know, I have an InteliPower along with
> the solar system. In 2 seasons of use, I think I've added water to my
> batteries only once, maybe twice.
>
> . Of course, you
> can use the [very expensive] gel cell or AGM batteries that are totally
> sealed, but you absolutely MUST use a good charging system with them or
> their life will be short.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > This is my night/morning/whatever! So, just my thoughts to provoke some
> > serious thinking about batteries and gassing.
> >
> > Are all batteries created equal? Do all produce large amounts of hydrogen?
> > Do all converter/charging systems drive a battery to huge amounts of gassing
> > (boiling the electrolyte)?
> >
> > Certainly, there should be some provision to contain battery acid - like an
> > acid proof base tray. Hydrogen is pretty light and would rise quickly. But
> > would convection through a 3/8 inch plastic tube be enough to vent? Seems
> > more likely that a captive battery box would tend to hold the
> > hydrogen/oxygen at a concentration where it would be an explosive mixture.
> > Is a closed battery box a good idea?
> >
> > Hope to hear some great explanations that support a closed battery box.
> > Think I'll just contain acid spills and let the limited amount of hydrogen
> > produced during severe charging dilute by mixing with air in the Safari.
> >
> > Some tongue in cheek and some serious,
> >
> > '69 Safari, Joy
> >
> >
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:33:14 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Norcold recalls
--part1_6d.1d4680ca.2921e06a_boundary
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838 and 8310 Series Models
Need replacement power board and wiring kit, eyebrow assembly. Look for=20
decorator buttons on fascia of eyebrow (vertical section near edges). =20
Eyebrow needs to have a button at each edge.
N600 and N800 Series Models
Norcold has voluntarily recalled N841, N821, N641 and N621 gas/electric=20
refrigerators built in 1999. Affected models have refrigerator serial number=
s=20
(found on the inside right of the cabinet) from 691972-771576, and a cooling=
=20
unit serial number (found on the solution chamber and viewed through the=20
refrigerator vent door outside the RV) from 1038000-1099000.
The defect is a potential cooling unit leak caused during AC electric mode=20
operation. If a leak occurs, the refrigerator's cooling performance will=20
deteriorate and a yellow powder residue will be evident at the cooling unit=
=E2=80=99s=20
heating element. Because extended operation of a leaking cooling unit in the=
=20
AC electric mode may result in a fire, immediate replacement of the cooling=20
unit is required.
An affected refrigerator without a leak must still be serviced to have its=20
cooling unit heating element replaced to prevent any potential future proble=
m.
=20
N260, N300, 322/323 Models
Norcold has voluntarily recalled three small gas absorption/electric=20
refrigerators, primarily used in folding camping trailers, which potentially=
=20
could have a safety defect involving stress corrosion cracking in brass=20
swivel nuts on the their pressure tap components. A significant crack could=20
potentially cause propane gas leakage during gas operation of these units:
Models =E2=80=93 Built =E2=80=93 Serial Numbers (found on the ID Label insid=
e the=20
refrigerator)
322/323 =E2=80=93 August, 1992-August, 1999 =E2=80=93 lower than 734882
N260/N260.3=E2=80=93 April, 1998-August, 1999 =E2=80=93 lower than 738527
N300/N300.3=E2=80=93 April, 1998-August, 1999=E2=80=93 lower than 738626
=20
Contact Norcold at
Customer Service Department
1-800-543-1219
Vince
1968 Safari & 1993 B190 (diesel)
So. Oregon
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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000ff" SIZE=3D2>838 and=
8310 Series Models
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">Need replacement power board and wiring kit, eyebrow assembl=
y. Look for decorator buttons on fascia of eyebrow (vertical section n=
ear edges). Eyebrow needs to have a button at each edge.</FONT><FONT =20=
COLOR=3D"#0000ff" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000ff" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">N600 and N800 Series Models</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" S=
IZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR>Norcold has voluntarily recalled N841, N821, N641 and N621 gas/electric=20=
refrigerators built in 1999. Affected models have refrigerator serial number=
s (found on the inside right of the cabinet) from 691972-771576, and a cooli=
ng unit serial number (found on the solution chamber and viewed through the=20=
refrigerator vent door outside the RV) from 1038000-1099000.
<BR>The defect is a potential cooling unit leak caused during AC electric mo=
de operation. If a leak occurs, the refrigerator's cooling performance will=20=
deteriorate and a yellow powder residue will be evident at the cooling unit=
=E2=80=99s heating element. Because extended operation of a leaking cooling=20=
unit in the AC electric mode may result in a fire, immediate replacement of=20=
the cooling unit is required.
<BR>An affected refrigerator without a leak must still be serviced to have i=
ts cooling unit heating element replaced to prevent any potential future pro=
blem.
<BR> =20
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000ff" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">N260, N300, 322/323 Models</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SI=
ZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR>Norcold has voluntarily recalled three small gas absorption/electric ref=
rigerators, primarily used in folding camping trailers, which potentially co=
uld have a safety defect involving stress corrosion cracking in brass swivel=
nuts on the their pressure tap components. A significant crack could potent=
ially cause propane gas leakage during gas operation of these units:
<BR>Models =E2=80=93 Built =E2=80=93 Serial Numbers (found on the ID Label i=
nside the refrigerator)
<BR>322/323 =E2=80=93 August, 1992-August, 1999 =E2=80=93 lower than 734882
<BR>N260/N260.3=E2=80=93 April, 1998-August, 1999 =E2=80=93 lower than 73852=
7
<BR>N300/N300.3=E2=80=93 April, 1998-August, 1999=E2=80=93 lower than 738626
<BR> </FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">Contact Norcold at</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000ff" SIZE=3D2 F=
AMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#3f5fb4" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">Customer Service Department</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" S=
IZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#3f5fb4" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">1-800-543-1219
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR>
<BR>Vince
<BR>1968 Safari & 1993 B190 (diesel)
<BR>So. Oregon</FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:47:24 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: catalytic heaters
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In a message dated 11/12/01 7:07:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> I can't imagine the catalytic heaters being sold if there was
> any significant danger.
By the way, in Oregon it is illegal to sell an RV with a catalytic heater
installed, or for a dealer or parts supplier to install one in an RV
Vince
1968 Safari & 1993 B190 (diesel)
So. Oregon
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>In a message dated 11/12/01 7:07:32 AM
Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I can't imagine the catalytic heaters being sold
if there was
<BR>any significant danger.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>By the way, in Oregon it is illegal to sell an RV with a catalytic heater
installed, or for a dealer or parts supplier to install one in an RV
<BR>
<BR>Vince
<BR>1968 Safari & 1993 B190 (diesel)
<BR>So. Oregon</FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:30:08 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Help! Furnace Cover for a '62 Bambi
Kit,
Is this part a taller, big and somewhat ugly piece of aluminum? If so I might
have something off my 61 Trade Wind that might work. I removed it when I
replaced the water heater. It is the vent on the outside of the coach.
Let me know if it would work.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:07:57 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: (no subject)
Hello All,
I have removed the lower inside wall sections to get to the wiring and to
remove the floor. When I did this I noticed that the fiberglass mat
insulation is need of replacement. ( the mice had a great time building a
city inside the walls) For replacement I am considering the pink foam board
type insulation. Has anyone used this in the walls? I am considering
attaching it to the walls with liquid nails, again anyone try this? A couple
of things that concern me is condensation effects, will it stick and stay or
am I going to have a real warm lower wall when it all falls down! And most of
all will it look like a huge breath mint to a mouse? I am also planning on
using it under the floor when I get it out and replaced, I'll glue it to the
sub floor. Or should I stay with the matting? What to do........What to do
Thanks
Ed
WBCCI/VAC4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:23:05 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: plywood floor & curved windows
Hello, I am new to this discussion group and airstreams. I have recently
acquired a 1948 wee wind. Well, I should say the "shell" of a wee wind with
a rotten floor and missing window panes. My friends & family think I should
be committed to an asylum but I just couldn't resist. She is so beautiful.
So, I have quite a few starter questions.
So, would anyone like to tell me the best way to replace the entire plywood
floor??? Body-off??? If body-off, how would I take the body off???
And then, if anyone knows what is the best/cost efficient material to replace
the end curved window panes and side window panes with ...that would be of
great help also.
I am somewhat handy with a jigsaw and makita for a girl but when it comes to
the running gear and mechanical units, I am still in the dark ...but with the
hopes of becoming literate. So, any recommendations on what type of heater/
battery/ electrical/ refrigerator/ kitchen/ etc I should be planning for are
all welcome suggestions. I don't even know what the original layout of this
model was.
Are any books or publications that I should purchase to guide me through this
undertaking?
PS. I hope I am using this discussion group correctly. In case I am not
responding in a timely manner, I am also not computer literate.
Beth B. in Venice
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:29:14 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: plywood floor & curved windows
Hello, I am new to this discussion group and airstreams. I have recently
acquired a 1948 wee wind. Well, I should say the "shell" of a wee wind with
a rotten floor and missing window panes. My friends & family think I should
be committed to an asylum but I just couldn't resist. She is so beautiful.
So, I have quite a few starter questions.
So, would anyone like to tell me the best way to replace the entire plywood
floor??? Body-off??? If body-off, how would I take the body off???
And then, if anyone knows what is the best/cost efficient material to replace
the end curved window panes and side window panes with ...that would be of
great help also.
I am somewhat handy with a jigsaw and makita for a girl but when it comes to
the running gear and mechanical units, I am still in the dark ...but with the
hopes of becoming literate. So, any recommendations on what type of heater/
battery/ electrical/ refrigerator/ kitchen/ etc I should be planning for are
all welcome suggestions. I don't even know what the original layout of this
model was.
Are any books or publications that I should purchase to guide me through this
undertaking?
PS. I hope I am using this discussion group correctly. In case I am not
responding in a timely manner, I am also not computer literate.
Beth B. in Venice
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:43:14 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Hello,
I am in the process of replacing the floor in my 59 Traveler. I have removed
the lower inside wall panels to get to the channel that the walls are
attached to the floor with. This channel is bolted to the frame, a guess on
my part but that's the way it looks. I will try to sneak my Saws-All between
the floor and the channel and cut those off. I hope not to go through the
outside skin with this implement of destruction! I then plan on replacing the
floor in sections and only cutting the bolts off in sections, hoping to not
destroy the integrity of the walls to the floor. I'm not sure that this will
work but should be able to let you know when attempt this. May be a while as
I have to rewire and re-plumb before I put in the new floor. I can't wait to
try this little repair!
Good Luck,
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:41:59 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Book: Livingston on RV maintenance.
Windows: think Lexan. It can be bent with sheet metal tools to curve to
fit the curved applications and it won't break when hit by a rock or
something stronger.
I've read it is possible to replace the floor, in pieces, without
lifting the body off. There is a description or two of removing the body
in past posts that you will find in the VAC archives.
There may well be a frame problem that will be easier to fix with the
body off.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:26:41 -0700
From: jere potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
I recently found 2 appliance manuals in my 64 Globetrotter
that might be of interest to some. My GT has neither of
these particular appliances, but others may find them
useful. By request, I can scan them and post them to the A/S
group site files. Let me know....
One is a Dometic refrig manual with very good exploding
diagrams & instructions for installing & troubleshooting. No
year or copyright that I can see on it. It seems to cover
models RM36,RM46,RM66,RM76,RM77,& RM100 Likely a '60's
publication.
The other is a Suburban Furnace manual , again no year, but
for the "Dyna-Trail" model. Good diagrams & parts lists,
installation instructions, and trouble shooting.
Jere Potter
Fort Collins. CO
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 00:53:38 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Gerald and Ed, Thanks for the tips. If anyone else has a rec., I am open to
all suggestions.
Beth B. (1948 wee wind)
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:00:35 -0800
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Beth - i'm doing a shell-off on a '48 Trailwind. Search the 'archives' at
www.tompatterson.com ,
there's lots of great stuff in there re: everything you need to know. Point
of information... our airstreams have the ''pipe-frame" frame design... many
folks have had new frames fabricated using the 'ladder-frame' design.
new axle and suspension and everything... but keeping the 'pipe' so it'll
have the '40's 'look'.
I've heard that it's not that difficult to 'piece-in' plywood sections
without removing the shell, but i would imagine that a 53 year old trailer
could use a whole new floor, and you'll be able to fix a whole bunch o'
other stuff much more easily...
Tuna
Reno, NV
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 8:29 PM
Subject: [VAC] plywood floor & curved windows
> Hello, I am new to this discussion group and airstreams. I have recently
> acquired a 1948 wee wind. Well, I should say the "shell" of a wee wind
with
> a rotten floor and missing window panes. My friends & family think I
should
> be committed to an asylum but I just couldn't resist. She is so
beautiful.
> So, I have quite a few starter questions.
> So, would anyone like to tell me the best way to replace the entire
plywood
> floor??? Body-off??? If body-off, how would I take the body off???
>
> And then, if anyone knows what is the best/cost efficient material to
replace
> the end curved window panes and side window panes with ...that would be of
> great help also.
>
> I am somewhat handy with a jigsaw and makita for a girl but when it comes
to
> the running gear and mechanical units, I am still in the dark ...but with
the
> hopes of becoming literate. So, any recommendations on what type of
heater/
> battery/ electrical/ refrigerator/ kitchen/ etc I should be planning for
are
> all welcome suggestions. I don't even know what the original layout of
this
> model was.
> Are any books or publications that I should purchase to guide me through
this
> undertaking?
> PS. I hope I am using this discussion group correctly. In case I am not
> responding in a timely manner, I am also not computer literate.
> Beth B. in Venice
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 01:11:47 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Gerald and Ed, Thanks for the tips. If anyone else has a rec., I am open to
all suggestions for a total restoration.
Beth B. (1948 wee wind)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 01:39:46 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Gerald and Ed, Thanks for the tips. If anyone else has a rec., I am open to
all suggestions for a total restoration.
Beth B. (1948 wee wind)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 05:37:31 -0500
From: "DH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 67 GT Trunk
While looking through my newly purchased Service Manual at the "One-Stop
Service Center" I noticed that the water inlet hose and the electric cable
run out through the trunk opening. My trunk is not original equipment, and
a previous owner had fashioned a replacement from an aluminum street sign.
It looks and works OK but I don't know what the original looked and worked
like. When hooked up to shore power and water the trunk is left off
exposing the trunk area to the elements. My question is: is this normal?
One would think that you could be hooked up and seal off the trunk. I plan
to modify the trunk lid to allow the services to pass through while keeping
the trunk on. Any feed back on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
folks. Dave H.
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 05:43:21 -0500
From: "DH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 67 GT battery bow
Thanks again for all the replies on the battery box. Dave H.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 06:44:43 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Hi Ed,
Sticking my nose in something again . . ., but I don't think it's wise to
try to use a sawsall to cut the bolts off. Without regard to the year/model
of your unit, my '69 Safari most likely isn't unique with regard to how
the shell is fastened to the frame.
The bolts you see inside the channel only bolt to the floor. The floor
"under" the channel is bolted to the frame. Don't know why the engineers
did this except that it might have made flipping the fame during
construction easier. There aren't that many bolts to deal with. Most
fasteners in the channel are sheet metal screw, are rusted and very
difficult to get out. The screws are hardened and will sap most saw blades.
I chose to use a rotary file and cut the heads off if the screws didn't
move.
I cut the bolts out with a bolt cutter if I could get to them. Otherwise, I
used an angle grinder blade to cut bolts out. Especially in the front and
rear where the bolts/rivets pass from the channel through the floor/angle
iron attachment for the skin/cross frame brace. It's obvious that using
this approach that the floor be broken out, but getting the rotted floor out
is the objective anyway?
All this is with regard to ladder type A/S frame.
BTW, cutting small sections of floor out can be easy by using a rotozip bit
and metal cutting drill bits. Worked well for me.
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 07:33:57 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 67 GT Trunk
Not original!
The electric should pass out through the holding tank housing or close by
into the bumper hatch. From there, it passes out through a trap door in the
bottom of the bumper hatch. Same path as used for the dump hose. The water
connection passes through the floor to the outside of the frame rail on the
street side. The 90 degree elbow is riveted to the frame rail outside the
banana curve.
At least, this is the way my '69 Safari is designed. Likewise for earlier
A/S that I've looked into. Leaving the hatch off during nasty weather
invites lots of water to rot the floor! :(
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 07:57:19 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 67 GT Trunk
Hi DH,
I used to have a 67 GT , with an original rear compartment lid . There was a
cool little flip up door just large enough for the electric to pass thru
,spring loaded to stay shut when not hooked up . Bottom left .I cant remember
about the hose ,might have used the same hole ,or thru the bottom of trunk in
front of bumper.
Chris 67 caravel
DH wrote:
> While looking through my newly purchased Service Manual at the "One-Stop
> Service Center" I noticed that the water inlet hose and the electric cable
> run out through the trunk opening. My trunk is not original equipment, and
> a previous owner had fashioned a replacement from an aluminum street sign.
> It looks and works OK but I don't know what the original looked and worked
> like. When hooked up to shore power and water the trunk is left off
> exposing the trunk area to the elements. My question is: is this normal?
> One would think that you could be hooked up and seal off the trunk. I plan
> to modify the trunk lid to allow the services to pass through while keeping
> the trunk on. Any feed back on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> folks. Dave H.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 09:18:38 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Ed, I'd be surprised if it let go and came down if you use plenty of Liquid
Nails. I'm not sure about the insulation value. Would it be as good or
better than the usual fiberglass type? There are also some foil backed
plastic insulating materials with dead air spaces that might be useful. I
think somebody on Hunter's list used it as supplemental insulation for a
live in Airstream located in a severe subfreezing climate area.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 23:07
Subject: [VAC] (no subject)
> Hello All,
> I have removed the lower inside wall sections to get to the wiring and to
> remove the floor. When I did this I noticed that the fiberglass mat
> insulation is need of replacement. ( the mice had a great time building a
> city inside the walls) For replacement I am considering the pink foam
board
> type insulation. Has anyone used this in the walls? I am considering
> attaching it to the walls with liquid nails, again anyone try this? A
couple
> of things that concern me is condensation effects, will it stick and stay
or
> am I going to have a real warm lower wall when it all falls down! And most
of
> all will it look like a huge breath mint to a mouse? I am also planning on
> using it under the floor when I get it out and replaced, I'll glue it to
the
> sub floor. Or should I stay with the matting? What to do........What to do
>
> Thanks
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC4425
> 68 Sovereign
> 59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:14:25 -0500
From: "Robert Petersen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Survey
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=windows-1251" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<P>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for all those who
received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please return it to him, as response
was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in trying to respond to Bud with
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<P></P></BODY></HTML>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:31:13 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Beth,
Get copies of "RV Maintenance and Repair" by Bob Livingston and
"Managing 12 Volts" by Harold Barre.
Your message made it to the List, you're doing something right. <<grin>>
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>
> Are any books or publications that I should purchase to guide me through this
> undertaking?
> PS. I hope I am using this discussion group correctly. In case I am not
> responding in a timely manner, I am also not computer literate.
> Beth B. in Venice
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 07:31:31 -0800
From: Jerry Sulkin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Plastic tambour
My 71 Safari has an off white solid plastic tambour in the bathroom vanity.
The stuff is in pretty bad shape after thirty years and I doublt that I can
salvage it with new canvas backing. I've done the research and the solid
plastic tambour is not made any more. I'm sure that others have had this
problem. How have you solved it?
Jerry Sulkin
Facilities Project Manager
Chemeketa Community
Phone: 503-399-2591
Fax: 503-399-2595
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:38:15 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_03A5_01C16C2F.4D10E4A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I'd like to fill one out too. I've been a member almost a year (as long =
as I've had a vintage trailer) and never received a questionaire either. =
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Robert Petersen=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 10:14
Subject: [VAC] Survey
In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for all =
those who received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please return =
it to him, as response was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in =
trying to respond to Bud with the email address given, I get my email =
returned as "no such address". Does anyone know how to get hold of Bud =
so I can have him send me a survey? I'd be more than happy to take the =
time to fill one out if I can get my hands on one. =20
Bob
------=_NextPart_000_03A5_01C16C2F.4D10E4A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'd like to fill one out too. I've been =
a member=20
almost a year (as long as I've had a vintage trailer) and never received =
a=20
questionaire either. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Robert Petersen</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 13, =
2001=20
10:14</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Survey</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for =
all=20
those who received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please =
return it to=20
him, as response was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and =
in trying=20
to respond to Bud with the email address given, I get my email =
returned as "no=20
such address". Does anyone know how to get hold of Bud so I can =
have him=20
send me a survey? I'd be more than happy to take the time to =
fill one=20
out if I can get my hands on one. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_03A5_01C16C2F.4D10E4A0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:48:50 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: More 12v lighting stuff
I don't know if everyone has seen these, but I was doing a search
for 12 florescent replacement ballasts and I found this:
http://www.solar-electric.com/sol12voldcli.html
An integrated 12 volt ballast/bulb (compact florescent) which screws in to
a standard (household type- medium edison) light socket. The bulb is 11
watts, which is rated as giving as much light as a 50 watt 120 volt bulb,
but it draws 982 milliamps @ 12 vdc.
Might be nice for a table lamp- or to give a larger range of light
fixtures.
(BTW- I noticed that this company- Northern Az. wind & Sun has the best 12
volt lighting prices I have seen).
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 11:45:57 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
Yes, I had the same problem with his e-mail.
If anyone knows the correct address, or has an electronic version on the
survey, please postthe info here.
Thanks!
At 10:14 AM 11/13/01 -0500, you wrote:
>In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for all those
>who received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please return it to
>him, as response was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in trying to
>respond to Bud with the email address given, I get my email returned as
>"no such address". Does anyone know how to get hold of Bud so I can have
>him send me a survey? I'd be more than happy to take the time to fill one
>out if I can get my hands on one.
>
>Bob
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html When replying to a message,
>please delete all unnecessary original text
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:47:17 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Insulation, no matter what type, needs to FILL the spaces. So put in the
foam to fill the space and it can't fall down. Air gaps at the edges are
severe heat leaks. That's the whole claim to fame for Icynene and other
foam-in-place house insulations. They fill ALL the cracks that stuffing
in prefoamed boards won't accomplish. Fiberglass has greater flexibility
that way than prefoamed boards.
I tried using liquid nails on a solar collector project once. It didn't
stick to my aluminum plates well, even poorer when they got hot. There
may be more effective construction adhesives. And liquid nails applied
to foam boards will destroy them. There is a construction adhesive made
specifically for foam insulation boards. Its much weaker than liquid
nails but foam isn't very strong anyway.
A mouse will dig into anything that doesn't bit back for a warm
domicile.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:47:21 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
That Dometic refrigerator manual would apply to mine. And others of the
'60s vintage. I'd like to have it, or else it ought to be scanned for
the VAC data pages. If I had it, I'd make a scan for the archives.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:47:26 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 67 GT Trunk
In my '68 Caravel, there's a drain pipe fitting with the same cap as the
black water tank mounted in the floor under the utility compartment. I
run electric wires through that and there's room to run the electric
plug first then a hose along side because the water inlet connection is
right at that fitting. I'd prefer to plug it with steel wool to keep out
mice while parked and connected. I may install (once I find one) a male
twist lock power plug in the side wall in a covered outlet box so that
electric power need not open up the belly to such invasion.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 11:00:47 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: More 12v lighting stuff
That IS a very good price for a 12 volt fluorescent. Now if it would fit
in place of a gaggle of lamps in our ceiling fixtures. With single
contact bayonet and a flat package.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 11:04:44 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
Bob, and all you others out there who can help Bud Cooper (and the VAC) by
filling out an Atributes Survey for each of your Airstreams. Bud can be
reached at [EMAIL PROTECTED] . His address is a little tricky in that those are
not "o's" but zeros. Anyways, Bud (the founder of our club) would really
appreciate it if he were to receive a flood of filled out surveys. Email him
today with your snail mail address and he will send out a blank survey! Let
him know if you have more than one. Thanks a bunch!
Monitor Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Petersen
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 10:14 AM
Subject: [VAC] Survey
In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for all those
who received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please return it to
him, as response was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in trying to
respond to Bud with the email address given, I get my email returned as "no
such address". Does anyone know how to get hold of Bud so I can have him
send me a survey? I'd be more than happy to take the time to fill one out
if I can get my hands on one.
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:20:10 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: More 12v lighting stuff
Chris,
Last year I purchased a couple of these 12V florescent (edison base) bulbs
for my 60 Overlander since battery power is limited and the lack of any
battery charger other than the tow vehicle. They have been very helpful
while boondocking, we can actually use the lights for a while at night
without being afraid of killing the battery. My only complaints are price
and that they stick up beyond the light shade by about 2 inches!
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Bryant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: [VAC] More 12v lighting stuff
> I don't know if everyone has seen these, but I was doing a search
> for 12 florescent replacement ballasts and I found this:
> http://www.solar-electric.com/sol12voldcli.html
> An integrated 12 volt ballast/bulb (compact florescent) which screws in to
> a standard (household type- medium edison) light socket. The bulb is 11
> watts, which is rated as giving as much light as a 50 watt 120 volt bulb,
> but it draws 982 milliamps @ 12 vdc.
>
> Might be nice for a table lamp- or to give a larger range of
light
> fixtures.
>
> (BTW- I noticed that this company- Northern Az. wind & Sun has the best 12
> volt lighting prices I have seen).
>
>
> ________
>
> Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:46:12 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
Hi All,
I, too, saw the notice about the survey. I emailed 'Coop' and he is
snail-mailing me several copies. Once I receive the survey I'll contact Coop
to see if I can get his permission to create a digital version. I'll let you
know.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
WBCCI #2699, VAC
on 11/13/01 9:45 AM, David W. Lowrey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Yes, I had the same problem with his e-mail.
>
> If anyone knows the correct address, or has an electronic version on the
> survey, please postthe info here.
>
> Thanks!
>
> At 10:14 AM 11/13/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for all those
>> who received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please return it to
>> him, as response was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in trying to
>> respond to Bud with the email address given, I get my email returned as
>> "no such address". Does anyone know how to get hold of Bud so I can have
>> him send me a survey? I'd be more than happy to take the time to fill one
>> out if I can get my hands on one.
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:57:08 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Attributes Survey Form...
> Robert Petersen wrote:
>
> In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a
> plea for all those who received an "Attributes Survey
> Questionnaire" to please return it to him, as response was
> poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in trying to respond
> to Bud with the email address given, I get my email
> returned as "no such address". Does anyone know how to
> get hold of Bud so I can have him send me a survey? I'd
> be more than happy to take the time to fill one out if I
> can get my hands on one.
>
> Bob
>
Bob & All:
The Trailer Attributes Survey form can be found at pages
13 to 17 in the End of Summer 2000 issue [Vol. 7, No. 4] of
The Vintage Advantage. These pages are posted in the
Members Only area of the VAC web site, but for some reason
the tops of those pages are cut off and do not print out (at
least on my computer), rendering them not fully useable
after downloading.
Perhaps RJ can rescan those five pages and post the
Trailer Attributes Survey form and instructions as a small,
stand-alone file in a separate section on the VAC home
page. That would seem to be a great use of the Web site.
Fred Coldwell
VAC Archive Historian
Fred Coldwell
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:19:15 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
> One is a Dometic refrig manual with very good exploding
> diagrams & instructions for installing & troubleshooting. No
> year or copyright that I can see on it. It seems to cover
> models RM36,RM46,RM66,RM76,RM77,& RM100 Likely a '60's
> publication.
Hi Jere:
I have the documentation for the original fridge in my '67 Safari.
Dometic Refrigerator Instructions for Use
Dometic Installation and adjusting instructions
The latter has a date on it of 1965.
The models it covers are:
M 28
MA 35
M 52 (which I had - replaced by an RM 2510.2)
I think the "RM" models came along somewhat later, although I can't say I
know that for a fact or when.
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 10:43:04 -0800
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--Boundary_(ID_/0H6nkUofSoAHOb8PuUWmg)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Better yet, would one of the webmasters be interested in setting up an online version
of Bud's survey?
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Petersen
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 7:14 AM
Subject: [VAC] Survey
In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for all those who
received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please return it to him, as response
was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in trying to respond to Bud with the email
add
Bob
--Boundary_(ID_/0H6nkUofSoAHOb8PuUWmg)
Content-type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Better yet, would one of the webmasters be
interested in setting up an online version of Bud's survey?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tuna</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000
2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED]
href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Robert Petersen</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A [EMAIL PROTECTED]
href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 13, 2001 7:14
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Survey</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>In the Nov issue of the Blue Beret, Bud Cooper issued a plea for all
those who received an "Attributes Survey Questionnaire" to please return it to
him, as response was poor. Now, I didn't receive one, and in trying
to respond to Bud with the email address given, I get my email returned as "no
such address". Does anyone know how to get hold of Bud so I can have him
send me a survey? I'd be more than happy to take the time to fill one
out if I can get my hands on one. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
--Boundary_(ID_/0H6nkUofSoAHOb8PuUWmg)--
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:28:23 -0700
From: Gerald or Donna Shippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Of mice and men (and airstreams)......
Ed, I find it amazing that the mice actually got up in the walls, could you
see where they entered. Needless to say you should plug their access. I
glue most things with silicone calk, it works well because you can always
remove it agian if need be. The liquid nails is so nasty and smelly and
dries to such a hard consistency. I'm not familiar with that type of
insulation and am wondering if it will conform to the curvature of the wall.
I would stay with the spun glass type of insulation as the foam core tends
to emit chemicals its entire life. Good luck. GAS
------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 13:59:08 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
Gary, you are quite right. My Dometic is model M 28 in my '68 Caravel.
If that manual isn't posted I sure would like to have a copy or a scan.
The RM manual offered earlier is not of benefit to me, but should
benefit some VAC members.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 39
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 15:21:51 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
At 01:59 PM 11/13/01 -0600, Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:
>Gary, you are quite right. My Dometic is model M 28 in my '68 Caravel.
>If that manual isn't posted I sure would like to have a copy or a scan.
>
>The RM manual offered earlier is not of benefit to me, but should
>benefit some VAC members.
>
>Gerald J.
I have a number of manuals posted at http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.html
among them the 1969 Dometic manual covering every refrigerator they made
from 1958 to 1969. There is also the RM 77 manual,(May '73) and the "Manual
Diagnostic" manual ('89), which covers nearly all of the non-electronic models.
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 40
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 13:16:30 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
> Gary, you are quite right. My Dometic is model M 28 in my '68 Caravel.
> If that manual isn't posted I sure would like to have a copy or a scan.
Hi Dr J:
I just checked out the M52 workshop manual (52 pages)at the site Chris
Briant mentioned. It has all of the stuff that my Installation and
Adjusting Manual has (10 - 6" x 8" pages) and much more. The Instructions
for Use pamplet is 4 - 5" x 7" pages. I didn't find that at the site.
I already have my stuff scanned although the files are a bit large because I
chose a resolution that can be read. Why not check out Chris' site and then
let me know if you still want it.
BTW, I offered this stuff to Fred Cauldwell a while ago but he never got
back to me. Want it RJ?
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 41
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 15:12:36 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
Chris, I suppose you've noticed a jump in load on your server? Just the
manuals I needed. Thanks.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 42
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:10:27 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Attributes Survey Form...
At 10:57 AM 11/13/01 -0700, Fred Coldwell wrote:
> Perhaps RJ can rescan those five pages and post the
>Trailer Attributes Survey form and instructions as a small,
>stand-alone file in a separate section on the VAC home
>page. That would seem to be a great use of the Web site.
>Please make sure it's in the "public" area of the web site. I recently
>joined VAC, but do not yet have the password...
__________________________________________________________________________
Dave Lowrey | E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Trying hard to recreate what's never been created...
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Message Number: 43
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:49:50 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#597915423: VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
TRAVEL TRAILER CAMPER
When did the 13 segment end caps give way to the 7 segment type? There's
a vintage A/S on Ebay advertised as a gutted ' 57 model 20 footer with seven
segments. Currently at $2,900 with a Buy-it-Now price of $3,900.
Jim Greene
> Title of item: VINTAGE 1957AIRSTREAMTRAVEL TRAILER CAMPER
> Seller: chinasky
> Starts: Nov-12-01 18:23:36 PST
> Ends: Nov-22-01 18:23:36 PST
> Price: Starts at $2,900.00
> To bid on the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597915423
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 44
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 15:00:03 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plastic tambour
Anyone know how to remove these tambour doors? I need to clean and lube
the track.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Sulkin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 7:31 AM
Subject: [VAC] Plastic tambour
> My 71 Safari has an off white solid plastic tambour in the bathroom
vanity.
> The stuff is in pretty bad shape after thirty years and I doublt that I
can
> salvage it with new canvas backing. I've done the research and the solid
> plastic tambour is not made any more. I'm sure that others have had this
> problem. How have you solved it?
>
> Jerry Sulkin
> Facilities Project Manager
> Chemeketa Community
> Phone: 503-399-2591
> Fax: 503-399-2595
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
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Message Number: 45
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 18:11:39 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Old Silver Streak Clipper
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I received an e-mail from a gentleman who has an old Silver Streak =
Clipper for sale. He is located in Santa Maria, California. I have =
posted three pictues up in the Airstream List Yahoo files area under my =
name, as SS1, SS2 and SS3. The trailer is probably a 50's, maybe even a =
40's model.
These Clippers were originally made by Curtis-Wright following =
WWII, and for a while in conjunction with Wally Byam, who sold some =
under the Airstream name. In 1949, three Curtis Wright employees bought =
the trailer division, and started producing them under the Silver Streak =
name. Later, two of them bought out the third, who started producing =
Streamlines, but that is another story.
If anyone is interested in the trailer, contact me and I will =
supply you with the owners name and e-mail address.
-Tom
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I received an =
e-mail from=20
a gentleman who has an old Silver Streak Clipper for sale. He is =
located=20
in Santa Maria, California. I have posted three pictues up in the=20
Airstream List Yahoo files area under my name, as SS1, SS2 and =
SS3. The=20
trailer is probably a 50's, maybe even a 40's model.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> These Clippers =
were=20
originally made by Curtis-Wright following WWII, and for a while in =
conjunction=20
with Wally Byam, who sold some under the Airstream name. In 1949, =
three=20
Curtis Wright employees bought the trailer division, and started =
producing them=20
under the Silver Streak name. Later, two of them bought out the =
third, who=20
started producing Streamlines, but that is another story.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> If anyone is =
interested in=20
the trailer, contact me and I will supply you with the owners name and =
e-mail=20
address.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01C16C6E.A3A05280--
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