VACList-Digest Sunday, November 25, 2001 Issue 134
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Jacks and folding doors
2. Compartment Door
3. Re: Inner end cap repair
4. Re: Curtain trouble!
5. Interior Renovation
6. Re: Pocket door parts
7. Re: Curtain trouble!
8. Suburban Fan Motor
9. Re:
10. Re: Frustrating day
11. Re: Interior Renovation
12. Re: sewing curtains.
13. Re: Control panel tank levels
14. Re: Frustrating day
15. Re: Inner end cap repair
16. Re: Control panel tank levels
17. Re: Control panel tank levels
18. Re:
19. Re: Interior Renovation
20. Re: Frustrating day
21. Re: Curtain trouble!
22. Re: Control panel tank levels
23. Re: sewing curtains.
24. Re: Pocket door parts
25. Re: Frustrating day - screwdriver tip for newbies.
26. Another screwdriver tip..
27. Re: sewing curtains.
28. Re: Suburban Fan Motor
29. Re:
30. Curtains and screws
31. Re: Suburban Fan Motor
32. Re: Another screwdriver tip..
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 20:00:40 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Jacks and folding doors
Hello VAC members,
Does anyone know where to go for a replacement for the folding doors that
graced our '65 Tradewind? Someone told me: "Irvine door" but I couldn't find
them. I'd love to find a wood type for the replacement.
Also I'd love to see what the original jacks looked like or at least what
people recommend to use as a replacement.
Thanks, Stuart Resor
* STUART MACARTHUR RESOR * ARCHITECT * 1268 BLUE SKY DRIVE * CARDIFF BY THE
SEA * CALIFORNIA * 92007-1005 * 760-753-8022 * FAX: 760-753-8058 *
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 21:06:25 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Compartment Door
Hello,
Just finished picking up a 66 Ambassador with my neighbor today down in
Nashville, another Vintage Airstreamer is born!
One problem, the 66 is missing the compartment door on the curb side. Anyone
out there have such a door that they might be willing to sell?
Thanks
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:14:13 -0700
From: jere potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Inner end cap repair
One word...... Bondo......Smush it in the crack, lay on some wide tape
temporarily to flatten to the surface level. After it dries, peal tape off &
sand, paint, etc. Used this to repair cracked frig exhaust vent with good
results.
Jere Potter
Fort Collins, CO
Tim Shephard wrote:
> Marvin here is what I did. It may give you some ideas.
>
> First I drilled a small hole at the end of each crack to keep them from
> expanding. Then I glued them. If yours are far apart you may need to find
> something thin to bridge the gap.
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0061.JPG
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0062.JPG
>
> Next I took a can of texture spray and sprayed the entire endcap. This
> texture hid the cracks.
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0065.JPG
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0071.JPG
>
> Then I after that dried, I went back and painted the endcap.
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0072.JPG
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0073.JPG
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0074.JPG
>
> I also used this same technique on the wrap window molded frames. Mine were
> busted into two peices. So I used some metal backing and JB Weld to put
> them back together. But I used the texture spray to hid the seams.
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0038.JPG
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0041.JPG
>
> Turned out ok for an amature like me. Good luck.
>
> -Tim
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> eFax (508) 590-0302
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marvin Murray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 8:06 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Inner end cap repair
>
> > The rear curved inner end cap or inside shell on my '76 Tradewind has
> several large cracks ( 6 to 12 inches each). It is made of some kind of
> beige plastic ( not fiberglass), about 1/4" thick. It would be very
> difficult to remove because I have a rear 3/4
> > bath (in otherwise very good condition) which would have to be removed
> first, a task I am unwilling to undertake.
> >
> > Does anyone have a suggestion for a repair? Please bear in mind that the
> cracks have opened a bit so the edges have a small gap making glueing
> difficult. Specifically, I can't figure out how to get the edges of the
> crack to abut after I coat them with glue.
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Marvin Murray
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 21:20:49 -0500
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Curtain trouble!
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I couldn't find any one in my area that wanted to mess with something lik=
e A/S curtains.
Have met a woman at a junk/thrift/what-not shop that may do it, but I wou=
ld need to leave the trailer there.
Really hate to leave it away from home unless I'm in it. I got a sewing m=
achine now that I am practicing on, so far I haven't even been able to ge=
t two pieces of cloth held together with it. The mom in law is supposed t=
o come over one day and give me some lessons on it. Thought about asking =
her to do it, but she's always doing something, staying busy. But if I do=
n't have much luck with my lesson I may ask her any way.
Bobby =20
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: James Greene
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 12:52 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Curtain trouble!
=20
Bobby, can you find somebody to trade services with for some curtains in =
return?
=20
Jim Greene
=20
----- Original Message ----- =20
From: Robert Gill =20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList =20
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2001 23:16
Subject: [VAC] Re: Curtain trouble!
I know what you mean Tim.
I install floor coverings and paint cars and other things most people pay=
someone to do.
Unfortunately I can't sew (my wife either, other than a button), so my tr=
ailer is curtain less.
Bobby
=20
=20
=20
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<HTML><BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#ffffff" STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;b=
ackground-color:#ffffff; "><DIV>I couldn't find any one in my area that w=
anted to mess with something like A/S curtains.</DIV> <DIV>Have met a wom=
an at a junk/thrift/what-not shop that may do it, but I would need t=
o leave the trailer there.</DIV> <DIV>Really hate to leave it away from h=
ome unless I'm in it. I got a sewing machine now that I am practicin=
g on, so far I haven't even been able to get two pieces of cloth held tog=
ether with it. The mom in law is supposed to come over one day and give m=
e some lessons on it. Thought about asking her to do it, but she's always=
doing something, staying busy. But if I don't have much luck with my les=
son I may ask her any way.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bobby <=
/DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT=
: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV=
> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>F=
rom:</B> James Greene</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> =
Saturday, November 24, 2001 12:52 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial=
"><B>To:</B> Multiple recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10p=
t Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Curtain trouble!</DIV> <DIV> </DI=
V> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STY=
LE> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Bobby, can you find somebody to trade servic=
es with for some curtains in return?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial=
></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV> <DIV=
><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr style=3D"PA=
DDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000=
00 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- O=
riginal Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10p=
t arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A [EMAIL PROTECTED] hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Robert Gill</A> </DIV> <DIV style=3D"FON=
T: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A [EMAIL PROTECTED] href=3D"mailto=
:[EMAIL PROTECTED]">Multiple recipients of VACList</A> </DIV> <DIV st=
yle=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, November 23, 2001 23:16</DI=
V> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Curtain trou=
ble!</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>I know what you mean Tim.</DIV> <DIV>I in=
stall floor coverings and paint cars and other things most people pa=
y someone to do.</DIV> <DIV>Unfortunately I can't sew (my wife eithe=
r, other than a button), so my trailer is curtain less.</DIV> <DIV>Bobby<=
/DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RI=
GHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px s=
olid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><FONT face=3DAr=
ial></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HT=
ML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:36:56 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Interior Renovation
Hi all,
We're considering for purchase a 1965 Overlander that the owner says is
'filthy with rodents' between the walls. Due to the dangers associated
with Hantavirus, we would tear out the interior (which is in excellent
condition), clean up the mess, replace the insulation, fix any wiring or
plumbing problems, and then put it all back together again. We're
pretty handy, but we'd like to know if this can be done by mere
mortals? Are there special tools or techniques required to remove the
interior? We can't afford to have this done professionally, so either we
have to do it ourselves, or wait for another Overlander to surface. I've
checked the archives on Tom Patterson's site, but so far, have been
unable to find specifics on this type of job. My apologies if I've
missed it, and posed a question that has already been answered.
Thanks,
Ted
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 21:55:19 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Pocket door parts
on 11/24/01 10:20 AM, Bob Hightower at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I finally noticed that my '76 31' Sov was missing the pocket door between
> the rear bath and the sleeping area.
>
> Anyone got any ideas where they might be found, or have some that they have
> removed and want to get rid of? Not a big deal, but I don't like the klutzy
> way of using the closet doors to close off the bathroom.
>
Bob,
Have you tried the two "old reliables" yet? Oasis and American Way?
Terry
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 22:17:29 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Curtain trouble!
on 11/24/01 9:20 PM, Robert Gill at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I couldn't find any one in my area that wanted to mess with something like A/S
> curtains. The mom in law is supposed to come over one day and give me some
> lessons on it. Thought about asking her to do it, but she's always doing
> something, staying busy. But if I don't have much luck with my lesson I may
> ask her any way.
>
Bobby - here's my suggestion,
With a MIL like you've got, you are blessed. Be careful not to scare her
away. Curtains are a lot of work, especially the first Airstream.
After your first few lessons and 12 practice sessions, you'll know if
curtains are something you can do or if they are something she might
volunteer to help you do. Even if your help only amounts to making coffee or
pouring a soft drink for her while she's slaving for you, be supportive of
her every step of the way.
This is free advice from someone who loved his mother in law's help and
encouragement while she was alive and who would go to great lengths to do
anything for her.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:20:01 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Suburban Fan Motor
I pulled my furnace today to test it out. It looks like the motor is shot.
When I bypass everything, and put 12v to the motor it does nothing.
Anyone have a motor to a '71 Suburban Furnace laying around?
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 22:55:23 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
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Curtains $3,000.00 They aren't even lined. I can give you the name
of the outfit that did them if you would like. DCM
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2> Curtains
$3,000.00 They aren't even lined. I can give you
the name of the outfit that did them if you would like. DCM </FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 00:42:05 -0500
From: "Nick Novia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Frustrating day
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Phil
I didn't have that problem with the MVD, but maybe things have changed!
The gal at the inspection station didn't like the wide aluminum tape =
someone had stuck on the gap between the step and the body. She =
maintained it was to cover a rusty spot, which she couldn't accept! I =
tried in vain to tell her it was aluminum, but had to go to her =
supervisor.
I have removed those screws, email me, I'm close by!
Nick Novia Bpt, Ct
'68 Safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Phil Renner=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 5:50 PM
Subject: [VAC] Frustrating day
I have temporary plates on my Overlander, which expire in 4 days, so =
after making certain the lights, brakes, etc. etc. work fine, I pull it =
down to my nearest Motor Vehicle Department. Only to find they no longer =
do inspections on 25 year old trailers anymore, and I have to take it to =
a different office 50 miles away. Oh well, I should have checked first. =
And I won't even admit to the really stupid thing I did, not here =
anyway.
This afternoon I start on taking the vanity out of the bath in order =
to clear the floor for a plywood patch job. Those 3" wood screws that =
have not been turned in 28 years are a bear. I absolutely could not get =
2 of them to budge.=20
What to do? Bigger screwdriver? Hack saw blade underneath? Rip it out =
and fix the stile latter? Drill them out?=20
Phil R
63 Overlander
Guilford, CT
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<HTML><HEAD>
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Phil</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I didn't have that problem with the =
MVD, but maybe=20
things have changed!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The gal at the inspection station =
didn't like the=20
wide aluminum tape someone had stuck on the gap between the step and the =
body. She maintained it was to cover a rusty spot, which she =
couldn't=20
accept! I tried in vain to tell her it was aluminum, but had to go =
to her=20
supervisor.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have removed those screws, email me, =
I'm close=20
by!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Nick Novia Bpt, Ct</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>'68 Safari</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>WBCCI #2577</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>WDCU</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>VAC</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Phil=20
Renner</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 24, =
2001 5:50=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Frustrating =
day</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have temporary plates on my Overlander, which =
expire in 4=20
days, so after making certain the lights, brakes, etc. etc. work fine, =
I pull=20
it down to my nearest Motor Vehicle Department. Only to find they no =
longer do=20
inspections on 25 year old trailers anymore, and I have to take it to =
a=20
different office 50 miles away. Oh well, I should have checked first. =
And I=20
won't even admit to the really stupid thing I did, not here=20
anyway.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This afternoon I start on taking the vanity out of =
the bath=20
in order to clear the floor for a plywood patch job. Those 3" wood =
screws that=20
have not been turned in 28 years are a bear. I absolutely could not =
get 2 of=20
them to budge. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What to do? Bigger screwdriver? Hack saw blade =
underneath?=20
Rip it out and fix the stile latter? Drill them out? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Phil R</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>63 Overlander</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Guilford, =
CT</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 01 23:00:10 -0700
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Interior Renovation
> Are there special tools or techniques required to remove the
>interior?
==============
Your fear of mice droppings, etc. seems a bit excessive as does your
solution for cleaning up. I would doubt the mice are living between the
walls on the unit but if they have been you should be able to note some
openings where they enter which would probably be at some cuts in the
interior walls for wiring or something, again very few. I doubt mice
would not be chewing thru the aluminum. If mice took up residence in the
trailer the odds are it is in the floor betweem bottom skin and the
floor of the trailer. An inspection could probably alert you to
potential the areas. Suggest you look up on the internet about
hantavirus and methods of cleaning up the enterior space. From what I
have read it is not difficult to neutralize the mice droppings using
simple disinfecting methods. Suggest you also check with nearest health
authorities for advice and recommendations.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 23:05:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: sewing curtains.
hey all - I know that in my town there are about 100
sewing shops that give classes either CHEEP or for
free - try there (Joann Fabrics, community education)
- you will find that making curtains is about the
easiest thing you can do - especially once you figure
out how to get two pieces to stay together.
it's like working with metal, only softer.
(c:
~t
p.s. in a state full of norwegian men - I think I'm
one of the few who can sew.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 23:43:27 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leggett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
Per the schematic, I believe the panel button is to
energize the tank level probe rather than leaving it
hot all the time and consuming amps. There is no
"test" function that I can see. Since I've never seen
this thing actually work I may be all wrong. But it
seems logical that all the lights would be on only
when in water and they should each go out as the water
level goes down and they become exposed - the gauge is
only in 1/4 tank increments. I am assuming they are
all coming on currently because the transistors are
all faulty and allowing the 12v current to pass thru
the lamp and into the collector leg then out to the
common grounded emitter side of the transistor,
regardless of the absense of a control voltage on the
base leg. Seems odd that they would all go bad at
once, but I'm no electrical engineer and I may be
missing something here.
John Leggett
68 Safari
Message Number: 23
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:15:02 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
John,
Isn't the idea of the Test Button to light all the
lamps to verify
operation?
As far as the transistors/no transistors question, the
water in the
holding tanks is probably much more conductive than
fresh water, so
amplification isn't needed. I'd suspect that almost
any NPN transistor
would work in that circuit.
<<Jim>>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 08:39:42 -0500
From: "Howard Lefkowitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Frustrating day
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Drill them out.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Phil Renner=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 5:50 PM
Subject: [VAC] Frustrating day
I have temporary plates on my Overlander, which expire in 4 days, so =
after making certain the lights, brakes, etc. etc. work fine, I pull it =
down to my nearest Motor Vehicle Department. Only to find they no longer =
do inspections on 25 year old trailers anymore, and I have to take it to =
a different office 50 miles away. Oh well, I should have checked first. =
And I won't even admit to the really stupid thing I did, not here =
anyway.
This afternoon I start on taking the vanity out of the bath in order =
to clear the floor for a plywood patch job. Those 3" wood screws that =
have not been turned in 28 years are a bear. I absolutely could not get =
2 of them to budge.=20
What to do? Bigger screwdriver? Hack saw blade underneath? Rip it out =
and fix the stile latter? Drill them out?=20
Phil R
63 Overlander
Guilford, CT
------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C1758C.BA7FE660
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Drill them out.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Phil=20
Renner</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 24, =
2001 5:50=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Frustrating =
day</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have temporary plates on my Overlander, which =
expire in 4=20
days, so after making certain the lights, brakes, etc. etc. work fine, =
I pull=20
it down to my nearest Motor Vehicle Department. Only to find they no =
longer do=20
inspections on 25 year old trailers anymore, and I have to take it to =
a=20
different office 50 miles away. Oh well, I should have checked first. =
And I=20
won't even admit to the really stupid thing I did, not here=20
anyway.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This afternoon I start on taking the vanity out of =
the bath=20
in order to clear the floor for a plywood patch job. Those 3" wood =
screws that=20
have not been turned in 28 years are a bear. I absolutely could not =
get 2 of=20
them to budge. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What to do? Bigger screwdriver? Hack saw blade =
underneath?=20
Rip it out and fix the stile latter? Drill them out? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Phil R</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>63 Overlander</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Guilford, =
CT</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C1758C.BA7FE660--
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 07:03:36 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Inner end cap repair
Marvin...before applying a wide tape to the fresh Bondo, use a strip of
waxed paper from the kitchen or the Bondo when dry will stick to the tape
when removed. For example, 2" tape with a 1" strip of waxed paper down the
center. Good luck.
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
WBCCI #2699, VAC
> From: "jere potter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:14:13 -0700
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Inner end cap repair
>
> One word...... Bondo......Smush it in the crack, lay on some wide tape
> temporarily to flatten to the surface level. After it dries, peal tape off &
> sand, paint, etc. Used this to repair cracked frig exhaust vent with good
> results.
> Jere Potter
> Fort Collins, CO
>
> Tim Shephard wrote:
>
>> Marvin here is what I did. It may give you some ideas.
>>
>> First I drilled a small hole at the end of each crack to keep them from
>> expanding. Then I glued them. If yours are far apart you may need to find
>> something thin to bridge the gap.
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0061.JPG
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0062.JPG
>>
>> Next I took a can of texture spray and sprayed the entire endcap. This
>> texture hid the cracks.
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0065.JPG
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0071.JPG
>>
>> Then I after that dried, I went back and painted the endcap.
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0072.JPG
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0073.JPG
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0074.JPG
>>
>> I also used this same technique on the wrap window molded frames. Mine were
>> busted into two peices. So I used some metal backing and JB Weld to put
>> them back together. But I used the texture spray to hid the seams.
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0038.JPG
>>
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0041.JPG
>>
>> Turned out ok for an amature like me. Good luck.
>>
>> -Tim
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
>> eFax (508) 590-0302
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Marvin Murray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 8:06 AM
>> Subject: [VAC] Inner end cap repair
>>
>>> The rear curved inner end cap or inside shell on my '76 Tradewind has
>> several large cracks ( 6 to 12 inches each). It is made of some kind of
>> beige plastic ( not fiberglass), about 1/4" thick. It would be very
>> difficult to remove because I have a rear 3/4
>>> bath (in otherwise very good condition) which would have to be removed
>> first, a task I am unwilling to undertake.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a suggestion for a repair? Please bear in mind that the
>> cracks have opened a bit so the edges have a small gap making glueing
>> difficult. Specifically, I can't figure out how to get the edges of the
>> crack to abut after I coat them with glue.
>>> Any thoughts?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Marvin Murray
>>>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 10:23:01 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
John, I have the water level sensor probe (and the tank) out of my ' 68
Tradewind. I assumed that the water in the tank completed the circuit
depending on which length of the sensor wire on the probe was in the water
and which were out. There has to be some electronics (I assume) to keep all
three lights from illuminating when the tank is full. I'm further assuming
that's the way it's supposed to work, i.e., only one light on the control
panel illuminated at a time. Anybody how if that's the way it's supposed to
work? I'd like to get mine working again also.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Leggett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 18:36
Subject: [VAC] Control panel tank levels
> Hello all-
> I'm attempting to rejuvinate a 1968 Control Panel to
> get the tank sensors to perform, but I'm running into
> a problem with the water tank level monitoring
> circuit.
>
> The water tank sensor has four leads to it - a low
> voltage supply line going to the probe and three wires
> corresponding to each of the green, yellow and red
> indicator panel lights coming back. I have taken the
> tank sensor out of the tank, and wired it directly to
> the terminal strip in the panel (to take the trailer
> wiring out of the circuit). When I press the test
> button all three lights light up even when the sensor
> is completely high and dry. Continuity checks of the
> sensor look OK - NO shorts circuits across the wires
> to each other.
>
> There are three NPN transistors on a small circuit
> board, each acting as a switch for the 3 sensor wires
> to control. Can anyone ID these transistors and a
> replacement source/part number for me or am I barking
> up the wrong tree?
>
> I'm also curious why the holding tank sensor omitted
> the transistors? (it works fine.) Perhaps taking the
> transistors out of the circuit would be the best
> solution?
>
> Has anyone replaced the whole setup with another
> monitor that has a remote output capability so you can
> drive the original panel lights?
>
> Any and all input would be welcomed.
> John Leggett
> San Francisco
> 68 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 11:09:57 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
At 10:23 AM 11/25/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>John, I have the water level sensor probe (and the tank) out of my ' 68
>Tradewind. I assumed that the water in the tank completed the circuit
>depending on which length of the sensor wire on the probe was in the water
>and which were out. There has to be some electronics (I assume) to keep all
>three lights from illuminating when the tank is full. I'm further assuming
>that's the way it's supposed to work, i.e., only one light on the control
>panel illuminated at a time. Anybody how if that's the way it's supposed to
>work? I'd like to get mine working again also.
Jim, on both my '72 Safari and on my current '95 Excella, the
correct light and all those below worked at once, i.e., a 2/3 full tank
lights up 1/3 full and empty also. On the '72, I'm working from memory,
but I'm pretty sure that's the way that one worked, also.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 11:15:52 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
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I got a complete set of lined replacement drapes of outstanding quality, =
fit and appearance for my ' 68 Tradewind from Jim Ambruso for $370. They =
are as good or better than the Airstream factory supplied drapes and you =
have a choice of fabric, color and lining. We are delighted with the =
product and the service. Highly recommended.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----=20
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 22:55
Subject: [VAC] Re:=20
Curtains $3,000.00 They aren't even lined. I can give you the =
name of the outfit that did them if you would like. DCM =20
------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C175A2.8B239040
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I got a complete set of lined =
replacement drapes of=20
outstanding quality, fit and appearance for my ' 68 Tradewind from Jim =
Ambruso=20
for $370. They are as good or better than the Airstream factory supplied =
drapes=20
and you have a choice of fabric, color and lining. We are delighted with =
the=20
product and the service. Highly recommended.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 24, =
2001=20
22:55</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
size=3D2> Curtains $3,000.00=20
They aren't even lined. I can give you the name of the =
outfit that=20
did them if you would like. DCM </FONT> =
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C175A2.8B239040--
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 11:20:29 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Interior Renovation
If the construction of any Airstream is consistent with my '69 Safari, mice
can roam anywhere in the monocoque. The arch at the bottom of each rib
allows this. Also, there are separations of the inverted "U" channel where
the front and rear end caps are joined that allow access from the outside of
the trailer into the monocoque. Worst, is the situation where the holding
tank housing is compromised and/or the rear floor is rotted out. Everything
can get anywhere in the unit. Screens missing can allow mice entry inside
the trailer. Don't sell RATs short! They can chew through anything -
metal, concrete, etc.
Don't know the distribution of the Hantavirus across the U.S., but certainly
it's a high risk in the Southwest.
Tsk, tsk, sometimes, you gotta bite the bullet and wear a mask. Pull the
lower aluminum panels and check out what's going on. Maybe yes, maybe no .
. .
Just MHO, '69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 11:32:14 -0500
From: soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Frustrating day
I've had good luck using a Vice Grip to remove wood screws that are
either stuck or have had the slot trashed . Just snap that baby on and
turn. Of course you will be able to exert way more than enough torque
to break the screw, but if you break it off, it'll save you a hacksaw
job.
Lincoln Soule
1977 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 12:01:31 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Curtain trouble!
Terry & Bobby,
Much of this stuff appears daunting at first viewing, and it WILL be a
bit daunting upon the first actual attempt. However, consider this:
NO ONE was born with knowlege of any sort, it all has to be aquired.
To aquire knowlege and/or skill requires some work. When aquiring
skills, you WILL make mistakes.
Making curtains is not a life or death situation. The absolute worst
that I can forsee is that you screw up a piece of material, and as long
as you're not working with something that's irreplaceable, you just go
down to the store and buy another piece. Count it as part of your
education.
I can guarantee that you will not be successful if you never try. I feel
fairly confident that you can produce entirely satisfactory results if
you do practice a bit, then "just do it". You WILL have mistakes in the
finished product, but I'd bet that only YOU will see them unless you
insist on pointing them out to others.
<<Jim>>
Terry Tyler wrote:
>
> on 11/24/01 9:20 PM, Robert Gill at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > I couldn't find any one in my area that wanted to mess with something like A/S
> > curtains. The mom in law is supposed to come over one day and give me some
> > lessons on it. Thought about asking her to do it, but she's always doing
> > something, staying busy. But if I don't have much luck with my lesson I may
> > ask her any way.
> >
> Bobby - here's my suggestion,
>
> With a MIL like you've got, you are blessed. Be careful not to scare her
> away. Curtains are a lot of work, especially the first Airstream.
>
> After your first few lessons and 12 practice sessions, you'll know if
> curtains are something you can do or if they are something she might
> volunteer to help you do. Even if your help only amounts to making coffee or
> pouring a soft drink for her while she's slaving for you, be supportive of
> her every step of the way.
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 12:06:00 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
John,
Could there be a common bias resistor that's not functioning? (burned
out, disconnected, bad solder joint, etc.) The base of a transistor
isn't usually allowed to just float.
<<Jim>>
John Leggett wrote:
>
> Per the schematic, I believe the panel button is to
> energize the tank level probe rather than leaving it
> hot all the time and consuming amps. There is no
> "test" function that I can see. Since I've never seen
> this thing actually work I may be all wrong. But it
> seems logical that all the lights would be on only
> when in water and they should each go out as the water
> level goes down and they become exposed - the gauge is
> only in 1/4 tank increments. I am assuming they are
> all coming on currently because the transistors are
> all faulty and allowing the 12v current to pass thru
> the lamp and into the collector leg then out to the
> common grounded emitter side of the transistor,
> regardless of the absense of a control voltage on the
> base leg. Seems odd that they would all go bad at
> once, but I'm no electrical engineer and I may be
> missing something here.
>
> John Leggett
> 68 Safari
>
> Message Number: 23
> Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:15:02 -0500
> From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
>
> John,
> Isn't the idea of the Test Button to light all the
> lamps to verify
> operation?
>
> As far as the transistors/no transistors question, the
> water in the
> holding tanks is probably much more conductive than
> fresh water, so
> amplification isn't needed. I'd suspect that almost
> any NPN transistor
> would work in that circuit.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 11:56:19 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: sewing curtains.
Toby, your assessment of making curtains to cover the windows on Airstreams
may well be correct. However, reproducing the lined double pleated drapes
that are original equipment on Airstreams is not for the faint of heart or
the inexperienced. I can run a sewing machine for simple stuff (even sewed
the edge binding strip on the replacement carpeting for my Porsche
Speedster) but I would not attempt making drapes for our ' 68 Tradewind. I
admire those with the skill to do so.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Toby Folwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 2:05
Subject: [VAC] Re: sewing curtains.
> hey all - I know that in my town there are about 100
> sewing shops that give classes either CHEEP or for
> free - try there (Joann Fabrics, community education)
> - you will find that making curtains is about the
> easiest thing you can do - especially once you figure
> out how to get two pieces to stay together.
>
> it's like working with metal, only softer.
>
> (c:
>
> ~t
>
> p.s. in a state full of norwegian men - I think I'm
> one of the few who can sew.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 09:58:30 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Pocket door parts
That's on the agenda for tomorrow.
Bob
> Have you tried the two "old reliables" yet? Oasis and American Way?
> Terry
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 09:28:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Frustrating day - screwdriver tip for newbies.
speaking of screwdriver handles - anyone ever bent a
screwdriver trying to get out a trim screw?
I bent two - now I've got this tool - don't know if I
mentioned it before - if you already know about it,
then you should have told me!
it's an "impact drive." cheap, and it'll remove just
about anything - put it on the screw and whack it with
a dead-blow hammer a few times. viola!
good stocking stuffer for the resto crowd.
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=36882&prmenbr=6970
~toby
--- "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Bigger screwdriver handle can work wonders, IF the
> screwdriver blade
> fits the screws well. Hacksaw blade underneath or
> drilling the screws is
> easier on the remains than ripping.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson.
> Reproduction by
> permission only.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
=====
"We were all busy loving music, but moreover wanting music to love us...and for songs
to love being around us..."
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 14:51:02 -0600
From: jim clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Another screwdriver tip..
I think Sears is selling some special screw remover bits... the bit looks
like a screwdriver bit that is sharpened on the edges that dig in on the
removal of a screw... The one I remember most is the phillips and it looked
like a small left hand end mill....
Jim
Jim Clark
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 16:53:48 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: sewing curtains.
It must have something to do with living in a cold climate , I find it a
nice thing to do in the winter , hey if girls can do it , it cant be that
hard ( just joking !!! :>) , and it makes for good conversations with
little old ladies . Sewing classes would be agood place for single guys to
meet single gals - sort of like the fox in the henhouse.
My Mom was a home ec teacher , taught her boys to cook ,and she used to
sew costumes for theater groups , so i grew up around it . She showed me
the basics , but got tired of me breaking needles ,or asking her to do it ,
so I got my own machine.
I showed my daughters the basics , they dont have Home ec . classes here
anymore , but they arent very interested .Soon to be a lost art , I think.
Next on my list are covers for the gaucho beds , never tried sewing
welting before , but my upholstering friend gave me quick lesson ( cut it
on the bias , guys , it wears better ! )
Chris 67 caravel
Toby Folwick wrote:
> hey all - I know that in my town there are about 100
> sewing shops that give classes either CHEEP or for
> free - try there (Joann Fabrics, community education)
> - you will find that making curtains is about the
> easiest thing you can do - especially once you figure
> out how to get two pieces to stay together.
>
> p.s. in a state full of norwegian men - I think I'm
> one of the few who can sew.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 17:48:08 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban Fan Motor
on 11/24/01 10:20 PM, Tim Shephard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I pulled my furnace today to test it out. It looks like the motor is shot.
> When I bypass everything, and put 12v to the motor it does nothing.
>
> Anyone have a motor to a '71 Suburban Furnace laying around?
Tim,
I left a 23 year old Suburban Furnace at Oasis RV (1-800-658-5863) in Tucson
several months ago when I bought a brand new one and replaced mine (fire box
was shot). Dollars to donuts, the old furnace is still there in the corner
piled up with the others and the motor is just waiting to be scavengered.
We're in Florida today, or I'd go down there and inquire. Why don't you give
them a call and ask about it or ask about one from another old (same model)
furnace? I'm sure they would test the motor for you before selling it. Fed
Ex will deliver it to you the day after tomorrow.
You might want to check the price of a new motor before spending very much
on an old one. Your time may be worth more than the difference, especially
if the new to you (old) one crumps out after one or two times using it.
If you're a true scavenger (not meant in a derogatory way), you might ask if
you can poke around the junk pile at any (all) the RV dealers in your area.
It wouldn't be the first time a Vintage owner struck it rich.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 18:10:11 -0500
From: "Howard Lefkowitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
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He also makes them with washable material if you want for a slight =
additional cost.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: James Greene=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 11:15 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re:=20
I got a complete set of lined replacement drapes of outstanding =
quality, fit and appearance for my ' 68 Tradewind from Jim Ambruso for =
$370. They are as good or better than the Airstream factory supplied =
drapes and you have a choice of fabric, color and lining. We are =
delighted with the product and the service. Highly recommended.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----=20
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 22:55
Subject: [VAC] Re:=20
Curtains $3,000.00 They aren't even lined. I can give you =
the name of the outfit that did them if you would like. DCM =20
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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>He also makes them with washable =
material if you=20
want for a slight additional cost.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>James=20
Greene</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, November 25, 2001 =
11:15=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I got a complete set of lined =
replacement drapes=20
of outstanding quality, fit and appearance for my ' 68 Tradewind from =
Jim=20
Ambruso for $370. They are as good or better than the Airstream =
factory=20
supplied drapes and you have a choice of fabric, color and lining. We =
are=20
delighted with the product and the service. Highly =
recommended.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, November 24, =
2001=20
22:55</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
size=3D2> Curtains =
$3,000.00=20
They aren't even lined. I can give you the name of the =
outfit=20
that did them if you would like. DCM </FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 15:08:03 -0800
From: "Kathy Hunt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Curtains and screws
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Hi,
I just had to comment on making curtains (drapes) of the pleated kind. =
I have done several trailer in my 26 years of A/S and the very hardest =
part is drapes. They must be measured and sewn precisely to fit snuggly =
when installed. I did a 31 ft 75 and it took me about two weeks of long =
days to accomplish this. There were around the corner windows both in =
the front and in the rear. If I remember right there were 158 pleats in =
the front curtains. One needle on the machine would only last a short =
time because I was using a regular machine and not a commercial variety. =
It seem that the fabric pleats were so thick that when the needle =
started through, the fabric was still moving forward causing the needle =
to break as it hit the sole plate because it was out of time. This also =
damged the sole plate which had to be replaced. NOT FUN! Personally I =
would not make these for anyone but myself! I have found a few tricks =
to help. 1. I used heavy duty stitchwitchry for the headings and turning =
the fabric down one extra time. Much easier to stitch and fully =
washable, if you have used a washable fabric and preshrunk both the =
fabric and the lining material. I often used very good quality sheets =
for lining fabric. Also have made the drapes in two trailers from =
sheets, you know they were made to take rough service and wash well =
without fading.
As for the ols screws--I have found that if you spray WD40 around the =
old screws and let them set a few days and then spray again, the screws =
quite often come out. If you always spray the screws before installing =
they resist rust and corrosion quite well. It is a cheap fix and might =
be worth you time. I just spray some WD40 in a small container like a =
yogurt carton and put the screws in it while working.
Just speaking from experience and hop it helps someone.
Kathy #17792
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just had to comment on making curtains (drapes) of =
the=20
pleated kind. I have done several trailer in my 26 years of A/S =
and the=20
very hardest part is drapes. They must be measured and sewn =
precisely to=20
fit snuggly when installed. I did a 31 ft 75 and it took me about two =
weeks of=20
long days to accomplish this. There were around the corner windows =
both in=20
the front and in the rear. If I remember right there were 158 =
pleats in=20
the front curtains. One needle on the machine would only last a =
short time=20
because I was using a regular machine and not a commercial variety. It =
seem that=20
the fabric pleats were so thick that </FONT><FONT size=3D2>when the =
needle started=20
through, the fabric was still moving forward causing the needle to break =
as it=20
hit the sole plate because it was out of time. This also damged =
the=20
sole plate which had to be replaced. NOT FUN! Personally I =
would not=20
make these for anyone but myself! I have found a few tricks to =
help. 1. I=20
used heavy duty stitchwitchry for the headings and turning the fabric =
down one=20
extra time. Much easier to stitch and fully washable, if you have =
used a=20
washable fabric and preshrunk both the fabric and the lining =
material. I=20
often used very good quality sheets for lining fabric. Also have made =
the drapes=20
in two trailers from sheets, you know they were made to take rough =
service and=20
wash well without fading.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>As for the ols screws--I have found that if you =
spray WD40=20
around the old screws and let them set a few days and then spray again, =
the=20
screws quite often come out. If you always spray the screws before =
installing they resist rust and corrosion quite well. It is a =
cheap fix=20
and might be worth you time. I just spray some WD40 in a small =
container=20
like a yogurt carton and put the screws in it while =
working.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Just speaking from experience and hop it helps=20
someone.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kathy #17792</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 31
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 15:47:59 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban Fan Motor
Thanks for the idea Terry.
Any idea what the cost was and model of your replacement?
Thanks
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 2:48 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Suburban Fan Motor
> on 11/24/01 10:20 PM, Tim Shephard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > I pulled my furnace today to test it out. It looks like the motor is
shot.
> > When I bypass everything, and put 12v to the motor it does nothing.
> >
> > Anyone have a motor to a '71 Suburban Furnace laying around?
>
> Tim,
>
> I left a 23 year old Suburban Furnace at Oasis RV (1-800-658-5863) in
Tucson
> several months ago when I bought a brand new one and replaced mine (fire
box
> was shot). Dollars to donuts, the old furnace is still there in the corner
> piled up with the others and the motor is just waiting to be scavengered.
>
> We're in Florida today, or I'd go down there and inquire. Why don't you
give
> them a call and ask about it or ask about one from another old (same
model)
> furnace? I'm sure they would test the motor for you before selling it. Fed
> Ex will deliver it to you the day after tomorrow.
>
> You might want to check the price of a new motor before spending very much
> on an old one. Your time may be worth more than the difference, especially
> if the new to you (old) one crumps out after one or two times using it.
>
> If you're a true scavenger (not meant in a derogatory way), you might ask
if
> you can poke around the junk pile at any (all) the RV dealers in your
area.
> It wouldn't be the first time a Vintage owner struck it rich.
>
> Terry
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 19:21:42 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Another screwdriver tip..
The phillips sheet metal screws that hold the aluminum inverted "U" to the
floor are particularly difficult to get out. I seldom had enough room to
work with any drill until I got the 90 degree attachment. Lacking the
attachment, I opted for a die grinder (rotary file) and took the head off in
short order. Had the same problem with the screws holding the toilet flange
to the floor. The Sears damaged screw tool might have saved the day, but
the rotary file took are of the screw heads in short order.
I never found any one technique as universal. Typically, I start with the
screw driver (impact type if there's room). If that fails, I try the vice
grips. Then, the rotary file or the angle grinder if there's room.
Don't know if I'll drop the $20 for the Sears tool or not. Might save a lot
of frustration. :)
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
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