VACList-Digest Wednesday, November 14, 2001 Issue 123
Today's Topics:
1. Re: eBay : VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
2. 3 River Rally
3. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
4. Re: Trailer Attributes Survey Form...
5. Re: 3 River Rally
6. Re: eBay : VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
7. Re: Survey
8. Re: 67 GT Trunk
9. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
10. Re: Survey
11. Re: Insulation
12. Re: 3 River Rally
13. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
14. Re: (no subject)
15. Re: Survey
16. Re: plywood floor & curved windows
17. 67 GT Trunk
18. Re: Survey
19. Re:
20. Re:
21. Re: 3 River Rally
22. '66 Safari/Locks
23. Re: '66 Safari/Locks
24. Re: '66 Safari/Locks
25. Re: '66 Safari/Locks
26. Re: Insulation
27. Re:
28. Re: continuous plastic hinges
29. Cork Floor
30. Re: 1957 Sovereign
31. Re: continuous plastic hinges
32. Re: GMC/Airstream Restoration
33. Re: axles--when to replace
34. Re: continuous plastic hinges
35. Re: Cork Floor
36. Re: continuous plastic hinges
37. Re: GMC/Airstream Restoration
38. Re: continuous plastic hinges
39. Re: continuous plastic hinges
40. Re: Insulation
41. Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
42. Re: eBay : VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
43. Re: Insulation
44. Re: black tank removal
45. subjects
46. Plastic tambour
47. Re: continuous plastic hinges
48. Re: Insulation
49. Re:
50. Re: continuous plastic hinges
51. Re: black tank removal
52. Re: Plastic tambour
53. Re: Cork Floor
54. Re: 1957/1958
55. Re: continuous plastic hinges
56. Yaahhhooo!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 16:45:30 -0800
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: eBay : VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
The serial number gives it away - the pictures confirm it. It is
actually a 1958 Caravanner made in Ohio.
13 went to 7 in 1958 on most models (Bubbles excluded,they went to 7
inlate 1957).]
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
James Greene wrote:
>
> When did the 13 segment end caps give way to the 7 segment type? There's
> a vintage A/S on Ebay advertised as a gutted ' 57 model 20 footer with seven
> segments. Currently at $2,900 with a Buy-it-Now price of $3,900.
>
> Jim Greene
>
> > Title of item: VINTAGE 1957AIRSTREAMTRAVEL TRAILER CAMPER
> > Seller: chinasky
> > Starts: Nov-12-01 18:23:36 PST
> > Ends: Nov-22-01 18:23:36 PST
> > Price: Starts at $2,900.00
> > To bid on the item, go to:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597915423
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:08:32 -0800
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 3 River Rally
The pictures and rally report from the Fall VAC rally in 3 Rivers
California are on the website now. Even if you didn't attend, they are
great fun to check out and match many names up to faces and trailers.
http://airstream.org/rallies/01-3Rivers/index.html
Did anyone take pictures and write a little summary from the recent Top
O' Georgia rally? I can put it on the website, too.
RJ
VAC Webmaster
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:13:13 -0800
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
I'm creating the appliance manual files for the website now, so I can
use any you have. Hard copy; jpegs; Abobe Acrobat - whatever. If
electronic, send them to [EMAIL PROTECTED] If paper, contact me
for address. That goes for everyone out there.
Thanks,
RJ
VAC Webmaster
> BTW, I offered this stuff to Fred Caldwell a while ago but he never got
> back to me. Want it RJ?
>
> GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:22:57 -0800
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Attributes Survey Form...
Fred,
You're right about that one issue of the VA, I'll rescan it for the
website.
The actual survey is one of those things that not quite sure where to
put on the site at this time, so if someone can make an e-mailable PDF
file out of one from Bub Cooper, that'd be great - it is too many pages
for a JPEG. If no one does it, when I do the rescan, I'll make one.
Later,
RJ
VAC Webmaster
> Bob & All:
>
> The Trailer Attributes Survey form can be found at pages
> 13 to 17 in the End of Summer 2000 issue [Vol. 7, No. 4] of
> The Vintage Advantage. These pages are posted in the
> Members Only area of the VAC web site, but for some reason
> the tops of those pages are cut off and do not print out (at
> least on my computer), rendering them not fully useable
> after downloading.
>
> Perhaps RJ can rescan those five pages and post the
> Trailer Attributes Survey form and instructions as a small,
> stand-alone file in a separate section on the VAC home
> page. That would seem to be a great use of the Web site.
>
> Fred Coldwell
> VAC Archive Historian
> Fred Coldwell
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 20:42:14 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 3 River Rally
--=====================_7031461==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
OOOWEEE....what great eye candy.....thanks so much RJ.
From RJ:
>The pictures and rally report from the Fall VAC rally in 3 Rivers
>California are on the website now. Even if you didn't attend, they are
>great fun to check out and match many names up to faces and trailers.
>
>http://airstream.org/rallies/01-3Rivers/index.html
And thanks to Chris for the fridge manuals that can be clearly read
. .....not like the jpg stuff I've had to look at.
From Chris:
I have a number of manuals posted at http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.html
among them the 1969 Dometic manual covering every refrigerator they made
from 1958 to 1969. There is also the RM 77 manual,(May '73) and the "Manual
Diagnostic" manual ('89), which covers nearly all of the non-electronic models.
Bob Patterson
--=====================_7031461==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<html>
<br>
OOOWEEE....what great eye candy.....thanks so much RJ.<br>
<br>
From RJ:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>The pictures and rally report from
the Fall VAC rally in 3 Rivers<br>
California are on the website now. Even if you didn't attend, they
are<br>
great fun to check out and match many names up to faces and
trailers.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://airstream.org/rallies/01-3Rivers/index.html";
eudora="autourl">http://airstream.org/rallies/01-3Rivers/index.html</a><br>
</blockquote><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
And thanks to Chris for the fridge manuals that can be clearly read
. .....not like the jpg stuff I've had to look at.<br>
<br>
<br>
From Chris:<br>
I have a number of manuals posted at
<a href="http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.html"; eudora="autourl"><font
color="#0000FF"><u>http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.</a><a
href="http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.html"; eudora="autourl">html</a></u></font>
among them the 1969 Dometic manual covering every refrigerator they made from 1958 to
1969. There is also the RM 77 manual,(May '73) and the "Manual Diagnostic"
manual ('89), which covers nearly all of the non-electronic models.<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob Patterson</html>
--=====================_7031461==_.ALT--
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:58:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: eBay : VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
RJ - I thought the odd wheel well shape defined it as
a California model. not true?
t
--- RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The serial number gives it away - the pictures
> confirm it. It is
> actually a 1958 Caravanner made in Ohio.
>
> 13 went to 7 in 1958 on most models (Bubbles
> excluded,they went to 7
> inlate 1957).]
>
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
=====
"How long a minute is depends on what side of the bathroom door you're on."
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 21:01:57 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Survey
How was the survey sent out? I don't remember is I sent one in either but if
it was more than 24 hours ago, who knows?
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
PS received my WBCCI membership card today, thanks, Ruth
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 21:01:56 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 67 GT Trunk
On my 64 GT there is a little drop down door on the left underneath that the
water hose can go through and the electric cord if you wanted to as well. In
the middle is a bigger drop down door for the sewer hose. The top of my
bumper compartment has lost it's original cover, and the present one is made
from corrugated aluminum. It works but is not pretty. When the manual refers
to the " One Stop Service Center" I thought they were referring to the
compartment door above the bumper compartment? But I may be misinformed - it
sounds as if you are refereing to the bumper compartment, not the "One Stop".
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 22:08:39 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Beth:
Girls can do this restoration stuff just fine. You just have to like it
and go for it. ( and find a good axle pro for that part) Even the
bravest folks on this list let pro's do the safety stuff, and some of
the smarter ones let them do more...
Daisy ( floor pictures almost ready for show time)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Gerald and Ed, Thanks for the tips. If anyone else has a rec., I am open to
> all suggestions.
> Beth B. (1948 wee wind)
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 20:22:06 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> How was the survey sent out? I don't remember is I sent one in either but if
> it was more than 24 hours ago, who knows?
>
> Just Plain Polly
> 1964 Globe Trotter
> Colorado
> WBCCI 7113
>
> PS received my WBCCI membership card today, thanks, Ruth
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
Polly:
It was mailed as part of (pages 13-18) of "End of Summer
2000" issue of The Vintage Advantage [Vol. 7, No. 4] last
year.
Fred in Denver
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 21:41:43 -0600
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insulation
I'd replace the fiberglass with something else, and the fg isn't a very good
insulator, and is great mouse food, as you've discovered.
The most efficient insulation per inch available is polyisocyanurate--I've
no doubt spelled this wrong--it's sold under the brand name Celotex at most
home stores in sheets of varying thickness, with a foil facing to reflect
radiant heat. an inch is equal to about r-11, as I remember, with the foil
adding even more to the value. Problem is, this stuff won't completely fill
the wall cavity, allowing for air movement in there, which will negate some
of the value of the insulation.
Better solution would be to spray foam insulation in there, or have it done,
completely filling the wall cavity. Even that, though, wouldn't solve the
biggest insulation problems with airstreams--namely, that the inner skins
collect heat, transfer it through the aluminum ribs to the outer skins,
which radiate it out to the atmosphere very effectively. This is called
thermal bridging, and allows much of the heat to get around the insulation.
Best solution would be to fur out the original ribs with some material that
has some insulation value to create additional space between the inner and
outer skins, and to create a thermal break between the aluminum ribs and the
inner skin, then spray foam into that cavity, then cut down the inner skin
panels and reattach them. You'd loose some interior space, but gain huge
insulation benefits. For more on this technique, see www.healthy-homes.com.
They retrofit old airstreams this way for cold-climate habitation.
A far cheaper, easier, and less invasive is to buy Reflectix brand
insulation--the type described below--also at home center stores. Relatively
cheap, flexible, comes in rolls. I think I am the fellow the writer below
was refering to--I've found this stuff easy to install on the interior
surface of the inner skins using fiberglass double-sided carpet tape. The
stuff creates a barrier for radiant heat loss, and a thermal break with the
aluminum skin-rib-skin route for heat out. I've so far only applied this
stuff inside the closets of my rig, but it does make quite a difference. Of
course, it makes the interior look like a space station . . .
Dan Weeks
75 Argosy 26
Des Moines
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 16:30:09 -0800
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> Would it be as good or
> better than the usual fiberglass type? There are also some foil backed
> plastic insulating materials with dead air spaces that might be useful. I
> think somebody on Hunter's list used it as supplemental insulation for a
> live in Airstream located in a severe subfreezing climate area.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:12:11 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 3 River Rally
RJ:
At 05:08 PM 11/13/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>[snip]
>
>Did anyone take pictures and write a little summary from the recent Top
>O' Georgia rally? I can put it on the website, too.
I'm sure several took pictures. I tried to get a picture of every vintage
trailer, with owners where possible. Some are ok, others, taken into the
sun, show lots of streamers through the trees. I'll send them to you when
I get a chance. I should have taken overall pics, too, including the happy
hours and other meetings; sadly, I did not.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:12:24 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Hi Joy,
thanks for the tip. I will give your method a shot and see what I come up
with. I hope to get to this part of the project over the next couple of weeks.
Thanks
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:31:28 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Hello,
Yep there is evidence that those little buggers were in the walls! I am in
the process of pulling the trailer apart and will seal everything before I
put it back together. I don't need anymore company in that small space other
than the 2 adults, 2 teenagers and 2 dogs that I have now!
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 1:43:0 -0500
From: "Robert Petersen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
Thanks to all who responded to my question about the survey. I used the
address supplied by Scott, and it didn't bounce. But Bud's address is very
tricky. One would think that with the name of Cooper, those would be
double "o", not the number 0! Bud must have all kinds of trouble with that
address! Anyways, thanks
Bob
> [Original Message]
> From: Scott Scheuermann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 11/13/01 11:04:44 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Survey
>
> Bob, and all you others out there who can help Bud Cooper (and the VAC) by
> filling out an Atributes Survey for each of your Airstreams. Bud can be
> reached at [EMAIL PROTECTED] . His address is a little tricky in that those
are
> not "o's" but zeros. Anyways, Bud (the founder of our club) would really
> appreciate it if he were to receive a flood of filled out surveys. Email
him
> today with your snail mail address and he will send out a blank survey!
Let
> him know if you have more than one. Thanks a bunch!
>
> Monitor Scott
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 03:35:22 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plywood floor & curved windows
Hi Ed,
Hope you understand that the angle iron or aluminum at the front and rear
of the trailer has a couple dozen rivets that must be drilled out before the
skin can be lifted off the frame. I haven't done this, just know that it's
a necessary part of the process. The rivets are obvious across the front as
there are two horizontal rows. Across the rear, they are not so obvious
(referring to my '69 Safari) as the convenience hatch sort of hides the
feature. The front angle might be as much as 10 inches tall; whereas, the
rear might only be 3 inches tall. It's obvious that you will have to drill
all new holes in the angle. My thoughts are that the bolts that clinch the
angle between the floor, "U" channel and the cross brace (frame) must be
done after the shell is in place.
One day, I might find a restorable A/S that I really like and will give it
all the loving care it deserves. However, the name of the game is RVing,
not restoration!
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 04:34:04 -0500
From: "DH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 67 GT Trunk
Thank you all for the info on trunk lid. Dave H
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 06:02:55 -0600
From: lefty frizzell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Survey
But, I'll bet it cuts his junk mail to almost nothing.
Lefty Frizzell
http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Robert Petersen
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 12:00 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Survey
Thanks to all who responded to my question about the survey. I used the
address supplied by Scott, and it didn't bounce. But Bud's address is
very tricky. One would think that with the name of Cooper, those would
be double "o", not the number 0! Bud must have all kinds of trouble
with that address! Anyways, thanks Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 08:50:08 -0800
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Greetings all,
My wife and I recently purchased our first Vintage Airstream & we would like
to introduce ourselves. First of all I guess you would all love to hear
about our new Jewel. I have to call it that to keep our spirits up in order
to work our way through the restoration & finish it. It's a 1957 "Sovereign
of the Road" twin with a suicide door and 13 panel end caps. I've been
hunting all over the web & haven't found another like it so I hope we can
bring this one back from the brink and do it justice. It's kinda rough but
almost complete. It seems as though its virtually original except for the
fridge which looks like 60's or 70's vintage and one missing ceiling
fixture, two missing roof vents and of course the upholstery. I have managed
to acquire an original 59 Dometic fridge and some assorted period goodies to
install during the restoration. According to some of the web sites I've
looked at, it's considered a "basket case". We towed it home 700 miles
without any problems so I guess it can't be that bad.
I manage a vehicle development company and my wife is an interior designer
so I hope we can update this trailer with a period feel without screwing up
the timeless beauty of it. My first experiences with Airstream's came when I
was quite young traveling through the maritime provinces in a none Airstream
trailer in 1972 or 1973 with my parents. We kept seeing Airstream's
everywhere. Finally we ran across what I now know as a "rally" of what
seemed like hundreds of them at the fair grounds in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.
Wow, what a sight! My other early memory was a friends grand parents who
took their Airstream around the world in the early 60's and I used to stare
at this thing for years afterwards sitting in their driveway wondering what
must have been seen through those windows. I have no idea of the size or
model it was but they did have it painted white to keep it cool and to pick
it out in a crowd.
Now back to the future. There are a few dented panels on our jewel and after
hours of surfing, I have come to the conclusion that "Olympic Bulb-tite 5-5"
rivets are used to replace panels. Solid rivets were originally used
requiring someone on the back side with a buck of some sort. Are these
Olympic rivets considered acceptable from the purists point of view? I
realize that they must be shaved after installation. It seems that if they
look good, they certainly are much easier to install. Also, where can I find
2024 T-3 Aluclad aluminum sheets .040" in the north east?
Thanks,
Colin Hyde & Susanne Brown
57 Sovereign of the Road, WBCCI, VAC, 10247
PS We are submitting photos of the jewel to the archive section of
vintageairstream.com if anyone is interested in seeing it.
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 10:02:37 -0500
From: Jim Bounds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
This is my first post on your mail list, did I do it correctly? Let me
know if the procedure is different.
I picked up yesterday a 1963 Tradewind and am very excited on its
possibilities. My company, www.gmccoop.com is in the business of
renovating the classic GMC motorhomes built from 73-78 and picking up this
Airstream is something I have personally been wanting to do for some time.
If you look at my web site, you will see that we supply parts, information,
services and restore the GMC coach just as a specialty antique car
restoration facility would do a classic car. We have been quite successful
and enjoy the work we do.
I intend to renovate my Tradewind in the same manner as we do the
GMC. This will be my personal living quarters at GMC rallies. I will tow
the unit with my coach.
As we progress, I'll be looking to you guys for tips specific to the unit
and hope to show you some new ideas we use on the GMC. When complete, we
may be interested in including Airstream trailer restorations along with
our GMC restoration work. We have specialized exclusively in GMC coaches
in the past because we simply see nothing else as a similar classic. The
Airstream travel trailer is the only exception I would consider working
with given the narrow focus of our interest.
As we get more familiar with the Airstream, I hope we will be able to
contribute to this forum, until then I was taught by my Grandfather to
listen before talking. If you have any questions for me, please Email me
direct ([EMAIL PROTECTED]).
Thanks for your time, I am very excited about being a part of the Airstream
community and hope to have fun working with the unit I have just acquired.
Jim Bounds
-------------------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 10:51:43 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 3 River Rally
RJ, a very impressive report on the 3 Rivers fall rally. Looks like a good
time was had by all.
I can see why you are the Vintage Webmaster. Really nice web site. Thank you
for it.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "RJ & Krista" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 20:08
Subject: [VAC] 3 River Rally
> The pictures and rally report from the Fall VAC rally in 3 Rivers
> California are on the website now. Even if you didn't attend, they are
> great fun to check out and match many names up to faces and trailers.
>
> http://airstream.org/rallies/01-3Rivers/index.html
>
> Did anyone take pictures and write a little summary from the recent Top
> O' Georgia rally? I can put it on the website, too.
>
> RJ
> VAC Webmaster
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 11:08:40 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: '66 Safari/Locks
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi, i recently purchased a '66 Safari and it did not come with any keys to
the door lock or the service panels on the outside. Can these locks be
replaced or re-keyed? Does anyone know where to puchase the replacement
locks? Also it did not have a cover for the back panel on the outside that
covers all the plumbing etc. Can that be replaced as well and where can that
be purchased? Thanks!
Kerri/Minnesota
New and first time owner of an Airstream
'66 Safari
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Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS"
LANG="0">Hi, i recently purchased a '66 Safari and it did not come with any keys to
the door lock or the service panels on the outside. Can these locks be replaced or
re-k<BR>Kerri/Minnesota
<BR>New and first time owner of an Airstream
<BR>'66 Safari</FONT></HTML>
--part1_e6.1e3c9397.2923f108_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 12:00:33 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '66 Safari/Locks
Kerri:
A good locksmith can either make a key, actually keys, or replace the
lock tumblers. You may have to take the tumblers to them. This does
not include the folks at the hardware store who copy keys...
Daisy (who put a deadbolt on the door and feels much better now)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Hi, i recently purchased a '66 Safari and it did not come with any
> keys to the door lock or the service panels on the outside. Can these
> locks be replaced or re-keyed? Does anyone know where to puchase the
> replacement locks? Also it did not have a cover for the back panel on
> the outside that covers all the plumbing etc. Can that be replaced as
> well and where can that be purchased? Thanks!
> Kerri/Minnesota
> New and first time owner of an Airstream
> '66 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 09:25:43 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '66 Safari/Locks
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_009A_01C16CEE.555785A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I had the same problem on my '71 Safari.
I was able to get a new cylinder for the main door lock from =
www.oasisrv.com. It came with two keys. It was very easy to replace.
The outside hatch doors I took off and had my local locksmith rekey =
them. I think it was around $15 for each lock.
The cylinder was around $35. =20
Not too bad I guess. And I have all new keys. I had to replace the =
cylinder on the main door, instead of just rekeying it, because it was =
worn out. While I had the lock off, I sprayed everything with silicon =
spray to help it operate smoothly.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----=20
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 8:08 AM
Subject: [VAC] '66 Safari/Locks
Hi, i recently purchased a '66 Safari and it did not come with any =
keys to the door lock or the service panels on the outside. Can these =
locks be replaced or re-keyed? Does anyone know where to puchase the =
replacement locks? Also it did not have a cover for the back panel on =
the outside that covers all the plumbing etc. Can that be replaced as =
well and where can that be purchased? Thanks!=20
Kerri/Minnesota=20
New and first time owner of an Airstream=20
'66 Safari=20
------=_NextPart_000_009A_01C16CEE.555785A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I had the same problem on my '71=20
Safari.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was able to get a new cylinder for =
the main door=20
lock from <A href=3D"http://www.oasisrv.com";>www.oasisrv.com</A>. =
It came=20
with two keys. It was very easy to replace.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The outside hatch doors I took off and =
had my local=20
locksmith rekey them. I think it was around $15 for each=20
lock.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The cylinder was around $35. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Not too bad I guess. And I have =
all new=20
keys. I had to replace the cylinder on the main door, instead of =
just=20
rekeying it, because it was worn out. While I had the lock =
off, I=20
sprayed everything with silicon spray to help it operate =
smoothly.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Tim</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, November 14, =
2001 8:08=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] '66 =
Safari/Locks</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SCRIPT">Hi, i recently purchased a '66 Safari and =
it did not=20
come with any keys to the door lock or the service panels on the =
outside. Can=20
these locks be replaced or re-keyed? Does anyone know where to puchase =
the=20
replacement locks? Also it did not have a cover for the back panel on =
the=20
outside that covers all the plumbing etc. Can that be replaced as well =
and=20
where can that be purchased? Thanks! <BR>Kerri/Minnesota <BR>New and =
first=20
time owner of an Airstream <BR>'66 Safari</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_009A_01C16CEE.555785A0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 11:28:43 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '66 Safari/Locks
I suspect that the access doors have few lock variations. It would be
handy to take door or trailer to a gathering of VAC and try keys from
other trailers. Probably most will fit and turn. There's always been a
tendency to use far fewer variations that the locks supply. Even GM cars
use only some 256 different keys. Simplifies inventory and matching. And
we put on dead bolt locks because the Bargman line of door locks seem to
use even a smaller variety or keys.
A good locksmith should be able to create a key to fit any lock he can
disassemble and do it easily, and a few should be able to make a key
without taking the lock apart but that takes one who is good at picking
locks and costs quite a bit more. Most would rather replace the lock
than go to that effort.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 09:36:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Jon Fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insulation
Although I've never seen the interior of an AS wall, I would definitely
recommend fiberglass insulation. I don't mean to be funny, but think of it
this way: would you rather spend a cold night between a couple of boards of
foam or a blanket of flexible insulation? (OK, so maybe the fiberglass would
be itchy...) If you can fit the foam tightly, it may well be better. So,
it might work really well under a floor. But, if there are gaps (as
installed or later on due to constant bending stresses) there will be
serious heat leaks. I would think simple friction would be enough to hold
tightly packed fiberglass in place (the thinnest products are designed for
3.5" studwalls). But, if you believe in overkill like me, use some
permanently flexible spray adhesive.
I lived in an old mill house as a grad student. I found that steel wool
worked very nicely to keep mice from coming through pipe chases and the
like. You will want to pick something else for this application, but you
get the idea.
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 11:34:39 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Aluminum sheets of appropriate temper should be available from vendors
in aluminum sheets, though they may be reluctant to find a few sheets of
specials like alclad 2024-T3. That's an age hardening alloy so its
important to get it from fresh production, not from material stored 20
years if you need to bend it. I've found small pieces surplus and it
breaks instead of bending in my box brake. Its not uncommon for aircraft
repair and manufacture so should be surplus around Boeing's various
facilities. Also check into companies like "the Aircraft Spruce Company"
who cater to the home built aircraft community. Their catalog is free
and has a lot of very useful tools for riveting aluminum sheets as well
as the aluminum sheets. Find the local chapter of the EAA to find their
vendors.
And some Airstream repair shops stock aluminum for just the same purpose
as you want, fixing dimpled Airstreams.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 09:42:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Jon Fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Can anyone direct me to a supplier of the continous plastic hinges used in
60's models? These are the ones that you push into a narrow slot in the end
of a panel. They are used for the folding table and the doors that cover
the storage areas under beds and couches. They are cut to the length of the
panel from a longer piece of material which looks as though it was extruded.
Thanks.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:07:41 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Cork Floor
Ok here it is:
http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/floor/floor.html
Daisy
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 10:10:10 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1957 Sovereign
Hi guys,
Shaved Olympic rivets are quite "OK". Airstream uses them in
production for blind installations and then on out for repairs. If you
look close at even newer trailers, you can see that tiny circle in the
rivet head here and there.
I have yet to find a better "non-local" place to get the aluminum than
http://www.airpartsinc.com/products.htm
Any one finds a better place that ships, please let me know.
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud
Now back to the future. There are a few dented panels on our jewel and
after
hours of surfing, I have come to the conclusion that "Olympic Bulb-tite
5-5"
rivets are used to replace panels. Solid rivets were originally used
requiring someone on the back side with a buck of some sort. Are these
Olympic rivets considered acceptable from the purists point of view? I
realize that they must be shaved after installation. It seems that if
they
look good, they certainly are much easier to install. Also, where can I
find
2024 T-3 Aluclad aluminum sheets .040" in the north east?
Thanks,
Colin Hyde & Susanne Brown
57 Sovereign of the Road, WBCCI, VAC, 10247
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:17:57 -0500
From: Garnett Horner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Jon,
I'm not familiar with the hinge you refer to but I have made plastic hinges
for other things. Polypropylene has very good fatigue properties and is
used in the hinge on inexpensive one piece plastic fishing tackle
boxes. From a sheet of polyproylene of the right thickness, cut the size
you need for a hinge. You can make a hinge simply by scoring the
polypropylene at the desired hinge line with a razor blade or Exacto knife
and bending at the score line. Trick is to only partially cut through the
thickness so practice a few times. Also, you might check some woodworking
supply places as well as McMaster-Carr for ready-made plastic hinges.
Good luck.
Garnett
WDCU 2878
At 09:42 AM 11/14/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>Can anyone direct me to a supplier of the continous plastic hinges used in
>60's models? These are the ones that you push into a narrow slot in the end
>of a panel. They are used for the folding table and the doors that cover
>the storage areas under beds and couches. They are cut to the length of the
>panel from a longer piece of material which looks as though it was extruded.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jon in SC
>68 Overlander
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________
>Send a cool gift with your E-Card
>http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 10:26:27 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: GMC/Airstream Restoration
Welcome Jim, you posted just fine - just need to add a subject line
next time.
Due to the popularity of the Airstream, it is surprising that there are
not more Airstream restoration companies doing what you are doing with
GMC motorhomes (cool looking things BTW) - and are considering for
Airstreams. Any endeavor into this field is encouraged, and should do
well. Over the last 10 months, I have declined 3 unsolicited offers of
$15,000 to $24,000 to do a turn-key restoration. Damn, with the
airline business the way it's going, it sure is getting tempting...
One thing I hope to see in the future is more reproduction parts. As I
have noted before, you can practically build a Mustang from such parts,
yet for the Airstream you can count them on one hand.
I think I have finally found a company to make the old aluminum Hehr
vent covers, and will allow me to make the hydro-form mold instead of
paying them the $1200 fabrication fee. Cross your fingers everyone.
Anyway, your success will be success for all Vintage Airstreams! Best
of luck.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 7:03 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [VAC] Re:
This is my first post on your mail list, did I do it correctly? Let me
know if the procedure is different.
I picked up yesterday a 1963 Tradewind and am very excited on its
possibilities. My company, www.gmccoop.com is in the business of
renovating the classic GMC motorhomes built from 73-78 and picking up
this
Airstream is something I have personally been wanting to do for some
time.
If you look at my web site, you will see that we supply parts,
information,
services and restore the GMC coach just as a specialty antique car
restoration facility would do a classic car. We have been quite
successful
and enjoy the work we do.
I intend to renovate my Tradewind in the same manner as we do the
GMC. This will be my personal living quarters at GMC rallies. I will
tow
the unit with my coach.
As we progress, I'll be looking to you guys for tips specific to the
unit
and hope to show you some new ideas we use on the GMC. When complete,
we
may be interested in including Airstream trailer restorations along
with
our GMC restoration work. We have specialized exclusively in GMC
coaches
in the past because we simply see nothing else as a similar classic.
The
Airstream travel trailer is the only exception I would consider working
with given the narrow focus of our interest.
As we get more familiar with the Airstream, I hope we will be able to
contribute to this forum, until then I was taught by my Grandfather to
listen before talking. If you have any questions for me, please Email
me
direct ([EMAIL PROTECTED]).
Jim Bounds
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 11:06:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Jon Fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: axles--when to replace
I have been trying to get a definitive answer on this topic for a while. I
spoke to Jim in Sales at Henschen (ext. 102). He was very friendly and
helpful.
Jim says that it is fine for an older axle to be between 2 and 3 o'clock
with the trailer loaded (or 9 and 10, depending on your perspective). He
says that a new axle will sit higher, but that the settling is OK, so long
as there is no unusual tire wear.
If desired, replacement on my unit (68) is apparently a drop-in, with no
modifications required on the frame or brackets. A newer axle may have
larger (stronger) brakes and a more conventional lug pattern. Plus, it
would obviously increase my ground clearance. But, it looks like I'm OK for
now, even though my links are sitting right at 3 o'clock when unloaded.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 14:07:26 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Jon, I did a bit of searching for them to repair the doors on my ' 68
Tradewind. I couldn't find any. In fact, Andy at Inland RV said that
material had not been available for 15 years. The work around is to reverse
the doors. That is to hinge them at the bottom so the opened the door is
lying on the floor. The current catch is also reversed and is mounted at the
top of the door rather than the bottom. The part of the door on the other
side of the current hinge isn't used. Lincoln Soule used this method on his
trailer that I saw at the Top of Georgia vintage rally a couple of weeks
ago. I've converted half of mine and bought another piano hinge today to do
the rest. Any style hinge arrangement will work of course.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Fitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 12:42
Subject: [VAC] Re: continuous plastic hinges
> Can anyone direct me to a supplier of the continous plastic hinges used in
> 60's models? These are the ones that you push into a narrow slot in the
end
> of a panel. They are used for the folding table and the doors that cover
> the storage areas under beds and couches. They are cut to the length of
the
> panel from a longer piece of material which looks as though it was
extruded.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 14:14:28 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cork Floor
Hey, Daisy, your new cork floor looks very nice. Great job of installing it.
Should last as long as the trailer too.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daisy Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 13:07
Subject: [VAC] Cork Floor
> Ok here it is:
> http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/floor/floor.html
>
> Daisy
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 14:31:44 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Thanks for the make it yourself idea, Garnett. That will work for the work
around I mentioned to Jon as a continuous hinge on the bottom of the revised
door. I'm afraid it won't work for Jon's application as I understand it. Our
60s trailers have an extruded plastic continuous hinge that is shaped like
two 1/2 " square "Us" back to back that are connected at the bottom of the
"U." One of the "Us" is inserted over the edge and stapled to the top half
of the door and the other is stapled to the bottom part. The hinge is where
the toe "Us" are joined. When the door is closed the hinge is at a right
angle. When the door is up the hinge is a 180 angle.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garnett Horner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 13:17
Subject: [VAC] Re: continuous plastic hinges
> Jon,
> I'm not familiar with the hinge you refer to but I have made plastic
hinges
> for other things. Polypropylene has very good fatigue properties and is
> used in the hinge on inexpensive one piece plastic fishing tackle
> boxes. From a sheet of polyproylene of the right thickness, cut the size
> you need for a hinge. You can make a hinge simply by scoring the
> polypropylene at the desired hinge line with a razor blade or Exacto knife
> and bending at the score line. Trick is to only partially cut through the
> thickness so practice a few times. Also, you might check some woodworking
> supply places as well as McMaster-Carr for ready-made plastic hinges.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Garnett
> WDCU 2878
>
> At 09:42 AM 11/14/2001 -0800, you wrote:
> >Can anyone direct me to a supplier of the continous plastic hinges used
in
> >60's models? These are the ones that you push into a narrow slot in the
end
> >of a panel. They are used for the folding table and the doors that cover
> >the storage areas under beds and couches. They are cut to the length of
the
> >panel from a longer piece of material which looks as though it was
extruded.
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Jon in SC
> >68 Overlander
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________________
> >Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> >http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 14:36:34 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: GMC/Airstream Restoration
RJ, you mentioned the future possibility of having a source for replacement
Hehr aluminum vent covers. What model year trailers used those covers and
what size were/are they?
Thanks,
Jim Greene
------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:46:59 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
McMaster-Carr shows four styles of continuous plastic hinges in their
catalog 106 (presently in my lap). From a buck a foot to $5 a foot in
lengths of 6 and 25 feet. They don't cut the long rolls.
www.mcmaster.com.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 39
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:51:17 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Look at McMaster number 11565A35.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 40
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:03:38 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insulation
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Fitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Although I've never seen the interior of an AS wall, I would definitely
> recommend fiberglass insulation. I don't mean to be funny, but think of
it
> this way: would you rather spend a cold night between a couple of boards
of
> foam or a blanket of flexible insulation? (OK, so maybe the fiberglass
would
> be itchy...) If you can fit the foam tightly, it may well be better. So,
> it might work really well under a floor. But, if there are gaps (as
> installed or later on due to constant bending stresses) there will be
> serious heat leaks. I would think simple friction would be enough to hold
> tightly packed fiberglass in place (the thinnest products are designed for
> 3.5" studwalls). But, if you believe in overkill like me, use some
> permanently flexible spray adhesive.
>
I recently installed a satellite antenna on my A/S, and had to remove the
center inner shell to do the wiring. The fiberglass batt was loose, as the
old cement had given up the ghost. I used 3M spray adhesive, just a quick
shot, to hold the batt up while I replaced the shell portion with no
problems.
Bob Hightower WBCCI 11365
------------------------------
Message Number: 41
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 14:24:15 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace & refrigerator manuals
If you get the user manual to RJ, then I can get it from there. First I
have to make the old refrigerator light, and then see if it cools before
I get really busy about using it. After at least 25 years of not being
used it may not function.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 42
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:00:55 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: eBay : VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
This too has been bugging me and has come up before. Maybe with this
lists help we can resolve it and I can capture it for the model &
serial number lists being developed for the VAC website. Ohio was the
only plant to use the 22(X)NNN s/n format.
Need feedback from anyone who has any one of the following:
- a 1958-1960 Caravanner, or
- a trailer with a serial # of 22(X)NNN, where X=year 8,9,0
- an Ohio made trailer with tear-drop wheel-well cutout.
Let me know if:
- your wheel cutouts are tear shaped or square/oval,
- if your trailer has a Caravanner nameplate by the door,
- If the streetside window layout is 3 windows in a row,
- The serial number,
- If you think/know it is Flying Cloud, Safari or Caravanner, and why.
Contact me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and I'll sum the responses for the
List.
It may be that in 1958, with the body style change from 13 to 7 panels,
Ohio used the tear-drop cutout for "X" years. I also want to resolve
if Ohio made both FC's and Caravanners in that time-period & co-mingled
serial #'s, or just made Caravanners.
Thanks to all,
RJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 5:59 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Re: eBay : VINTAGE 1957 AIRSTREAM
>
> RJ - I thought the odd wheel well shape defined it as
> a California model. not true?
------------------------------
Message Number: 43
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:27:21 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insulation
Hi Bob H.
I'm interested in installing a DirecTV dish on top of my Safari in place of
the TV antennae. Can you explain more about the process - like what's
involved? Did you take any pictures?
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 44
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:44:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Jon Fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: black tank removal
Can someone outline the process for removing a black water tank on a 60's
model AS? My specific concerns are how it should be done so as to avoid
damage to the tank and the stuff connected to it (dump valve and toilet). I
want to rebuild the supports that hold the tank.
My tank is fine (I think), but the steel cross-member on the rear of the
tank is so rusty that I'm afraid to put a load on it. I suspect the front
is similar. The galvanized pan beneath it is also quite rusty and it bulges
slightly at the bottom.
For what it's worth, I have frame separation, too. Perhaps the two projects
should be done in tandem--I don't know.
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
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------------------------------
Message Number: 45
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:54:46 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: subjects
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Several people have been forgetting to include a subject in the header =
of their posts, please remember to do so--especially those of you =
getting the digest format.
Thanks
Monitor Scott
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Several people have been forgetting to =
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Monitor =
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------------------------------
Message Number: 46
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:39:15 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Plastic tambour
on 11/13/01 6:00 PM, Tim Shephard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Anyone know how to remove these tambour doors? I need to clean and lube
> the track.
>
> -Tim
>
=====
Tim,
If you can clean and lube the track to your satisfaction with a box of Q
tips and silicone lubricant (or whatever), why don't you try that first?
Yes, tambour doors can be removed (disassembled), BUT for me, it was a chore
and a half. I wouldn't intentionally do it again (except under great
duress), particularly if the doors were working and not broken.
I also found that a fringe benefit of removing them and then reinstalling
them is they now run free and don't bind. BUT, if I could do that with shims
or extra support framing, I'd take the time to do it in preference to
removing them and reinstalling them.
Tim, each of us is different when it comes to jobs we like doing. This was
one job that (for me) fell into the category of "make work." Yuk.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life."
Confucius
------------------------------
Message Number: 47
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:31:44 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Dr. J, the McMaster-Carr polypropylene slip over panel hinge would be fine
if it would accommodate panels thicker than 1/4 inch which seems to be the
limit according to the catalog. The doors on my Tradewind are 1/2".
Consequently, the hinge wouldn't fit the existing panel/door. Bummer.
I appreciate the referral to the McMaster-Carr site. They have a lot of
stuff. A lot.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 14:46
Subject: [VAC] Re: continuous plastic hinges
> McMaster-Carr shows four styles of continuous plastic hinges in their
> catalog 106 (presently in my lap). From a buck a foot to $5 a foot in
> lengths of 6 and 25 feet. They don't cut the long rolls.
> www.mcmaster.com.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
> permission only.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 48
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:30:48 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insulation
> Hi Bob H.
>
> I'm interested in installing a DirecTV dish on top of my Safari in place
of
> the TV antennae. Can you explain more about the process - like what's
> involved? Did you take any pictures?
>
> '69 Safari, Joy
>
Hi, Joy. No, I didn't take pictures, unfortunately, but the installation was
straightforward. I simply pulled the old antenna off, the installed the dish
in the same spot.
Check the clearance of the lowered dish with any vents in the area before
you decide to do that. Mine (32' Sov) fit well in that spot.
The base of the new antenna is larger than the old one, so you have to use
plenty of caulking, and drill new holes and install new rivets (or use the
screws included with the dish). Centering the dish in the hole is best done
by two people, one underneath guiding the one outside. No need to get on
top, as a ladder, padded and set along either the window frame or against a
board across two ribs will get you up high enough to work on it.
Another one is that the hole in the inner shell may have to be enlarged to
allow the shaft for the elevating mechanism to fit. This I did after the
installation was complete (didn't check it before I buttoned it up), but
some nippers and a nibbler took care of that.
To run the wiring (can't use the old antenna cable), you have to pull the
center section of the shell off. On my '76, there is a trim piece at the
front end of the trailer that slips off the end of the panel, then the panel
is 'spring fit' into channels on each side. After removing the light covers,
antenna crank and any other trim pieces as far back as is needed, reach up
and pull the middle of the front end of the panel down and you will see it
start to come out of the channels.
Wearing gloves, you can then work your way back and remove the panel. I
didn't have to go all the way, just far enough to clear the cable that runs
to the street side and down to the antenna connection on the street side
wall.
The panel will curve enough, without buckling, to let you lay it back out of
the way. The old cable is secured by a couple of clips which are easily
removable and replaced when the new cable is installed. You might want to
wear a hat and some sort of eye protection, as stuff is going to fall out of
the ceiling.
You'll have to fish from the edge of the street side panel down to the spot
you want the cable to come out. I used a regular fish tape, but have also
used old speedometer cables for this. The latter would work better, as you
don't have to fish, pull a string, and then pull the cable. I left the old
connection plate in, as I want to keep the 12V connector. Just coil the old
antenna cable up and leave it in the overhead.
The dish kit comes with a plate and feed through for the new cable, so I
drilled a hole large enough for the feed through, and pulled the cable out
there, connected it, and fastened the plate to the wall.
The model I bought also had an elevation sensor, so I pulled that wiring
through with the coax, but mounted it separately, just above the old 12V
connection. Another hole to drill.
All in all, it was not difficult. Took about 4 hours to do, feeling my way
through the process.
My trailer is now at Oasis having some work done, but when I get it back
this weekend, I can take some pictures if you'd like.
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 49
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:52:26 -0800
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Jim,
I've just purchased a 57 "Sovereign of the Road" and it has 13 segment end
caps. I called someone advertising on the VAC classifieds with a 57
overlander and he says his has 7 segments. I guess this is a transition
year.
Colin Hyde
> Message Number: 43
> Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:49:50 -0500
> From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#597915423: VINTAGE
1957 AIRSTREAM TRAVEL TRAILER CAMPER
>
> When did the 13 segment end caps give way to the 7 segment type?
There's
> a vintage A/S on Ebay advertised as a gutted ' 57 model 20 footer with
seven
> segments. Currently at $2,900 with a Buy-it-Now price of $3,900.
>
> Jim Greene
------------------------------
Message Number: 50
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:46:46 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Might be that a trip past a router or table saw could thin an edge on
the door to fit the hinge. E.g. cut a rabbet for the hinge. Or a classic
Stanley rabbet plane.
The McMaster catalog I have has about 3300 pages. A monster. They also
take plastic, don't have an 800 number and deliver in one or two days
from multiple warehouses around the US. Their prices can be beat, they
don't admit maker most of the time and they don't always deliver the
same exact part for a catalog number from one year to the next so using
them for production is hazardous. They prefer to think of themselves as
industrial so getting a catalog is a real pain, but now that its on the
internet, it may get even harder to acquire the printed catalog. But
their search engine works fairly well. Never as nice as browsing through
the catalog in a comfortable chair though.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 51
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:55:29 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: black tank removal
How long is an overlander? Frame separation is typically associated with
the near 30 foot units after 1969 when Beatrice Foods took over and gray
water tanks were added in the area of the aft bath.
If the floor is rotted out completely along the aft, there's lots of
structure compromised and you'll have to attend to this while in the process
of working on the holding tank.
I wouldn't be too hasty to say that the holding tank is fine from the damage
you indicate is present.
Since you mentioned cross braces under the holding tank housing, your unit
might be similar to my '69 Safari. However, I realize that the bathroom
layout and the location of the galley are important considerations also. If
you can describe these, I might be able to help you. Well, most likely
there's a lot of help on the VAClist.
Saving fittings/pipes is a critical part of the replacement of the holding
tank. In my case, I couldn't separate the halves of the dump valve and had
to do some severe chopping to get the tank loose. Meaning that I had one
hell of a time reinstalling the holding tank. To make matters better, I had
to remove the entire bathroom so I could do justice to replacing the floor
and restoring the frame members that were totally rusted out in the rear.
It's a big deal if the floor along the skin is rotted out!
The VAClist has been over these things a zillion times, but I enjoy writing
about it/sending pictures. Contact me off list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if
you want to ask questions that might be redundant to other list
participants.
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 52
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:02:44 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plastic tambour
Thanks for the tips.
The problem I have with mine is that they are very very difficult to move.
I am probably the only one in my family that could do it.
I have sprayed them with silicone lube and it did not help too much.
Jim Greene suggested it may be the top is sagging binding the door. So I
will check that as well and do what I can w/o removing it.
-Tim
> Tim,
>
> If you can clean and lube the track to your satisfaction with a box of Q
> tips and silicone lubricant (or whatever), why don't you try that first?
>
> Yes, tambour doors can be removed (disassembled), BUT for me, it was a
chore
> and a half. I wouldn't intentionally do it again (except under great
> duress), particularly if the doors were working and not broken.
------------------------------
Message Number: 53
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:11:23 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cork Floor
Looks really great. Nice job!
I have not heard of a cork floor before. I am having trouble envisioning
it. I keep thinking of that cork board you use for a bulletin board.
Is this the same stuff? How rugged is it for a floor? About how much did
it cost?
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daisy Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 10:07 AM
Subject: [VAC] Cork Floor
> Ok here it is:
> http://www.tiac.net/users/jtdjtd/aspix/floor/floor.html
>
> Daisy
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 54
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:23:50 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1957/1958
Five'll get you ten it is really a 1958 Overlander, maybe first sold in
late 1957 - although the serial number will tell for sure.
RJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 5:52 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Re:
>
> Jim,
> I've just purchased a 57 "Sovereign of the Road" and it has
> 13 segment end
> caps. I called someone advertising on the VAC classifieds with a 57
> overlander and he says his has 7 segments. I guess this is a
> transition
> year.
> Colin Hyde
------------------------------
Message Number: 55
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:31:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Doug Rowbottom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: continuous plastic hinges
Jim
On my 67 I fixed the hinge by breaking the plastic
right across and leaving the two pieces in place. Then
I added a small dark piano hinge to the inside where
it can't be seen and it looks like the plastic is
still working. Simple and cheap
Doug
--- James Greene <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks for the make it yourself idea, Garnett. That
> will work for the work
> around I mentioned to Jon as a continuous hinge on
> the bottom of the revised
> door. I'm afraid it won't work for Jon's application
> as I understand it. Our
> 60s trailers have an extruded plastic continuous
> hinge that is shaped like
> two 1/2 " square "Us" back to back that are
> connected at the bottom of the
> "U." One of the "Us" is inserted over the edge and
> stapled to the top half
> of the door and the other is stapled to the bottom
> part. The hinge is where
> the toe "Us" are joined. When the door is closed the
> hinge is at a right
> angle. When the door is up the hinge is a 180 angle.
>
> Jim Greene
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 56
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:23:44 -0500
From: "Sanderson W. Sandy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Yaahhhooo!
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Yahooo!
The new Trailer Life just came in and WE'RE ON THE COVER!!!
Not to mention a feature article on the inside with pictures and =
everything. The article was a very favorable one with quotes from =
several VAC notables such as Bud Cooper, Tom Reed and Tom Howarth. =
Almost made me want to go out and buy one, but my wife says two =
moneypits is enough!
Walt =
Sandy
S. W. Sandy
WBCCI # 4159 & VAC
Region 2 VAC Representative
1960 17' Pacer
1970 27' Overlander
South West New Jersey
Mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yahooo!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2> The new Trailer Life just came in =
and WE'RE=20
ON THE COVER!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2> Not to mention a feature =
article on=20
the inside with pictures and everything. The article was a very =
favorable one=20
with quotes from several VAC notables such as Bud Cooper, Tom Reed and =
Tom=20
Howarth. Almost made me want to go out and buy one, but my wife =
says two=20
moneypits is enough!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2> =
=20
=
=20
=
=20
=
=20
Walt Sandy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>S. W. Sandy<BR>WBCCI # 4159 & VAC<BR>Region 2 =
VAC=20
Representative<BR>1960 17' Pacer<BR>1970 27' Overlander<BR>South West =
New=20
Jersey<BR>Mail to: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
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