VACList-Digest       Tuesday, November 20, 2001      Issue 129
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. 1968 Globetrotter brake drums
        2. Re: 58 Overlander
        3. Re: 1968 Globetrotter brake drums
        4. December Wired
        5. Re: Argosy end caps
        6. Re: On the Road again...sort of
        7. holding tank
        8. Re: A/C fantastic vent
        9. Re: 1968 Globetrotter brake drums
       10. Bad Karma
       11. Re: holding tank
       12. Re: holding tank
       13. Re: ir Tools
       14. Re: Argosy end caps
       15. Re: December Wired
       16. Re: Bad Karma
       17. Re: Argosy end caps
       18. A thank you.
       19. Re: toilet rot
       20. Re: Argosy end caps




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 16:51:38 -0800 (PST)
From: max miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1968 Globetrotter brake drums

Could someone out there list the steps to removing the
brake drum from a 1968 Globetrotter.  Thank-you. Max

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:24:05 -0800
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 58 Overlander

Very doubtful.  Most likely it's 110v provisions for a fan in the vent
opening.  I found a similar one on our '57 Flying Cloud, all coiled
inside the skin when I removed the old evaporative cooler.  You can see
the rivet pattern for the circumferentials (ribs), roughly on a 3 foot
spacing.  If the weight isn't supported by a rib, you'd have problems. 
The "Load Center" and inlet wiring is probably not sized right for AC,
so be careful with that.

Best of luck,
RJ

Jerry Jarrell wrote:
> 
> Hey R.J.
>     I've been off the list for a while but back reading and learning and working
> on the "58" Overlander. Question? I am installing a Fantastic Fan in the rear
> vent. I found a 110 AC wire run to it. Did they anticipate the installation of an
> air conditioner in that early model? There is a fan in the rear bath that is 110
> ac but does not draw much air. I think I read somewhere that the early models were
> not structurally sound enough for a overhead air conditioner. Any info from anyone
> will be appreciated.
> Jerry (In Middle GA)
> "58" Overlander
> WBCCI 4899


------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:19:07 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1968 Globetrotter brake drums

Max,
 Remove the bearing cap by prying it off. Remove the cotter pin holding
the nut. Remove the nut. Pull the brake drum off towards you, being
careful to catch the bearing before it falls into the dirt.

You might have to back off the brake adjustment to get the drum off. To
do that, remove the little rubber plug in the adjustment slot at the
bottom of the backing plate and use a large screwdriver or brake
adjusting tool to turn the Star Wheel. Direction varies with the person
who installed the adjuster last, with some you move the tool towards the
center of the brake assy. to tighten, with others, you move it towards
the center to loosen. Adjusting while turning the wheel will tell you in
short order.

                                        <<Jim>>

max miller wrote:
> 
> Could someone out there list the steps to removing the
> brake drum from a 1968 Globetrotter.  Thank-you. Max
> 

-- 

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>


------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 22:12:24 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: December Wired

The December Wired magazine article on Airstreams is one you all should 
see. Wired always has avant guard graphics and the Airstream pages are in 
keeping with Wired's unique style. The article is printed on silver paper. 
It's only 3 pages long but does get to the heart of the need for Airstream 
to break away from the standard interiors the RV industry use.

The only objection I have is a quote by the designer, Christopher Deam. He 
said, about Airstreams shrinking customer base, "Young people aren't going 
to get in that old trailer that hillbillies and your parents used..."

What's with that?

Anyway, it's nice to see our beloved twinkies getting a mention in such a 
fancy magazine.

Bob Patterson



------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:18:10 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Argosy end caps

Well since you asked:
http://home.velocitus.net/cbburke/charlie's/argosy/argosy.html
will get you there.

Charlie

Elisa wrote:

> PLEASE let us get that URL!!!Elisa77 Argosy Dream Trailer   Charlie
> Burke is The Man when
> it comes to Argosy trailers. He's too modest to mention this, but has
> one of
> the most beautiful Argosys I've seen. Pix of his restoration job are
> up on
> his website, and I'm sure he'd give you the url if you asked.
>
> Dan






------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:00:05 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: On the Road again...sort of

They didn't say, just that he was no longer there. He sure was a help to
many of us. Jay has sort of filled in, as the new fellow isn't quite as
knowledgeable.

I'll try to find out where he went.

Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 2:25 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: On the Road again...sort of


> Bob, what happened to Cliff? He's been a big help to me. Is he with
another
> Airstream dealer because I will follow him there if he is.
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 22:22:07 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: holding tank

I am tying to put a side bath in a 53 Flying Cloud. My problem is the 
toilet's best locations fall smack on top of the frame or on the outside of 
the the frame. Does the toilet hole have to dump right into the holding 
tank or can an elbow be used? Is there some solution I'm not aware of?
Bob Patterson



------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:21:41 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: A/C fantastic vent

According to Airstream records they did not start prewiring for air
conditioning until 1962. However the flexibility of the plant with regard to
customizing a coach does not preclude your coach from having it done.

Charlie

Scott Scheuermann wrote:

> Jerry
>
> I highly doubt that your '58 would of been prewired/reinforced for rooftop
> A/C. When our '60 Overlander had A/C installed back in the 70's the factory
> installed a partial rib or something to support the weight. Charlie Burke
> would know for sure how early the prewiring was done.
>
> As for your fantastic vent, remember that it runs on 12V DC.
>
> Scott
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Jarrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 9:07 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Re:
>
> > >
> > > Message Number: 12
> > > Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 07:45:59 -0800
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: Vent Covers
> > >
> > > Roughly 1951 to 1968, the 14x14 size. A.K.A. "the Baking Dish"
> > > RJ
> > >
> >
> > Hey R.J.
> >     I've been off the list for a while but back reading and learning and
> working
> > on the "58" Overlander. Question? I am installing a Fantastic Fan in the
> rear
> > vent. I found a 110 AC wire run to it. Did they anticipate the
> installation of an
> > air conditioner in that early model? There is a fan in the rear bath that
> is 110
> > ac but does not draw much air. I think I read somewhere that the early
> models were
> > not structurally sound enough for a overhead air conditioner. Any info
> from anyone
> > will be appreciated.
> > Jerry (In Middle GA)
> > "58" Overlander
> > WBCCI 4899
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:29:04 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1968 Globetrotter brake drums

Another step you can add is to use the drum to remove the grease seal. The
older the coach the more important it is to do it this way.
After removing the outer bearing replace the washer, thread the nut back on
several turns. Grip the brake drum carefully with both hands. Ease it toward
you until it touches the inner bearing. Then push it away a short distance,
and pull sharply back toward you. This will cause the washer to push the
inner bearing out with the seal. In virtually all cases the seal comes out
intact. You may have to repeat once or twice.

Charlie

Jim Dunmyer wrote:

> Max,
>  Remove the bearing cap by prying it off. Remove the cotter pin holding
> the nut. Remove the nut. Pull the brake drum off towards you, being
> careful to catch the bearing before it falls into the dirt.
>
> You might have to back off the brake adjustment to get the drum off. To
> do that, remove the little rubber plug in the adjustment slot at the
> bottom of the backing plate and use a large screwdriver or brake
> adjusting tool to turn the Star Wheel. Direction varies with the person
> who installed the adjuster last, with some you move the tool towards the
> center of the brake assy. to tighten, with others, you move it towards
> the center to loosen. Adjusting while turning the wheel will tell you in
> short order.
>
>                                         <<Jim>>
>
> max miller wrote:
> >
> > Could someone out there list the steps to removing the
> > brake drum from a 1968 Globetrotter.  Thank-you. Max
> >
>
> --
>
>                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
>                                 <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
>                             <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>






------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 23:10:14 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bad Karma

      Did anyone see "Crossing Jordan" on NBC tonight?  They are chasing a 
serial killer called "Digger," who abducts young women and buries them 
alive.  Get this:  Digger lives in a trailer park...in an Airstream...looks 
like about 27 ft.  Not good to have serial killers pulling Airstreams.
      It gets worse...they get to close to him, and he leaves in his truck, 
leaving a *burning* Airstream behind.  Looked very real; so, they may have 
actually burned one.  Horrors!  Bad dreams tonight.

- Dick
(5368)

"Think like a man of action.  Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/



------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 23:40:54 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: holding tank


--part1_82.134f34e4.292b38d6_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 11/19/01 7:29:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> I am tying to put a side bath in a 53 Flying Cloud. My problem is the 
> toilet's best locations fall smack on top of the frame or on the outside of 
> 
> the the frame. Does the toilet hole have to dump right into the holding 
> tank or can an elbow be used? Is there some solution I'm not aware of?
> 

Bob,

 The frame set up on your 53 and my 53 are the same. This is how the factory 
instaled the black tank and throne. In my opinion it would be the best method 
to install a black tank in your 53. I would think the factory method would 
work for any first style ladder frame A/S.
    The tank is mounted on the outside of the 4" C channel frame above the 
floor, with a plywood box built around the tank and the throne mounted on 
top. The dump  valve is located just below the floor with the appropriate 
control to operate the valve. That's the basic non detailed run down of the 
factor set up.
    The task of adding a black tank isn't that difficult just time 
conssuming. I'll assume you're not worried about accurate restoration, so the 
use of modern technology will make your job easier also.
  As long as the part of the tank the dump valve is located is on the outside 
of the 4" channel , you can postion the tank any direction that makes you 
happy.
  I think running "any" plumbing from the throne to the black tank is begging 
for trouble. I'm no expert ,but , I've never seen a trailer or motorhome with 
the throne mounted away from the tank. (any one seen something like that?)
    Also drilling or cutting large enough for plumbing holes in your frame 
don't sound like a good idea.  
   I'm using an electric dump valve on my rebiuld , with an access hatch 
incase of a snafu with the valve.   
       Trike

--part1_82.134f34e4.292b38d6_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 11/19/01 7:29:47 PM 
Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; 
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I am tying to put a side bath in a 53 Flying 
Cloud. My problem is the <BR>
toilet's best locations fall smack on top of the frame or on the outside of <BR>
the the frame. Does the toilet hole have to dump right into the holding <BR>
tank or can an elbow be used? Is there some solution I'm not aware of?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Bob,<BR>
<BR>
 The frame set up on your 53 and my 53 are the same. This is how the factory instaled 
the black tank and throne. In my opinion it would be the best method to install a 
black tank in your 53. I would think the factory method would work for any first style 
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The tank is mounted on the outside of the 4" C channel frame above 
the floor, with a plywood box built around the tank and the throne mounted on top. The 
dump&nbsp; valve is located just below the floor with the appropriate control to 
o&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The task of adding a black tank isn't that difficult just time 
conssuming. I'll assume you're not worried about accurate restoration, so the use of 
modern technology will make your job easier also.<BR>
&nbsp; As long as the part of the tank the dump valve is located is on the outside of 
the 4" channel , you can postion the tank any direction that makes you happy.<BR>
&nbsp; I think running "any" plumbing from the throne to the black tank is begging for 
trouble. I'm no expert ,but , I've never seen a trailer or motorhome with the throne 
mounted away from the tank. (any one seen something like that?)<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Also drilling or cutting large enough for plumbing holes in your 
frame don't sound like a good idea.&nbsp; <BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm using an electric dump valve on my rebiuld , with an access hatch 
incase of a snafu with the valve.&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Trike</FONT></HTML>

--part1_82.134f34e4.292b38d6_boundary--


------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 23:42:48 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: holding tank


--part1_80.134f4865.292b3948_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 11/19/01 7:29:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> I am tying to put a side bath in a 53 Flying Cloud. My problem is the 
> toilet's best locations fall smack on top of the frame or on the outside of 
> 
> the the frame. Does the toilet hole have to dump right into the holding 
> tank or can an elbow be used? Is there some solution I'm not aware of?
> 

Bob,

 The frame set up on your 53 and my 53 are the same. This is how the factory 
instaled the black tank and throne. In my opinion it would be the best method 
to install a black tank in your 53. I would think the factory method would 
work for any first style ladder frame A/S.
    The tank is mounted on the outside of the 4" C channel frame above the 
floor, with a plywood box built around the tank and the throne mounted on 
top. The dump  valve is located just below the floor with the appropriate 
control to operate the valve. That's the basic non detailed run down of the 
factor set up.
    The task of adding a black tank isn't that difficult just time 
conssuming. I'll assume you're not worried about accurate restoration, so the 
use of modern technology will make your job easier also.
  As long as the part of the tank the dump valve is located is on the outside 
of the 4" channel , you can postion the tank any direction that makes you 
happy.
  I think running "any" plumbing from the throne to the black tank is begging 
for trouble. I'm no expert ,but , I've never seen a trailer or motorhome with 
the throne mounted away from the tank. (any one seen something like that?)
    Also drilling or cutting large enough for plumbing holes in your frame 
don't sound like a good idea.  
   I'm using an electric dump valve on my rebiuld , with an access hatch 
incase of a snafu with the valve.   
       Trike

--part1_80.134f4865.292b3948_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 11/19/01 7:29:47 PM 
Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; 
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I am tying to put a side bath in a 53 Flying 
Cloud. My problem is the <BR>
toilet's best locations fall smack on top of the frame or on the outside of <BR>
the the frame. Does the toilet hole have to dump right into the holding <BR>
tank or can an elbow be used? Is there some solution I'm not aware of?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Bob,<BR>
<BR>
 The frame set up on your 53 and my 53 are the same. This is how the factory instaled 
the black tank and throne. In my opinion it would be the best method to install a 
black tank in your 53. I would think the factory method would work for any first style 
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The tank is mounted on the outside of the 4" C channel frame above 
the floor, with a plywood box built around the tank and the throne mounted on top. The 
dump&nbsp; valve is located just below the floor with the appropriate control to 
o&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The task of adding a black tank isn't that difficult just time 
conssuming. I'll assume you're not worried about accurate restoration, so the use of 
modern technology will make your job easier also.<BR>
&nbsp; As long as the part of the tank the dump valve is located is on the outside of 
the 4" channel , you can postion the tank any direction that makes you happy.<BR>
&nbsp; I think running "any" plumbing from the throne to the black tank is begging for 
trouble. I'm no expert ,but , I've never seen a trailer or motorhome with the throne 
mounted away from the tank. (any one seen something like that?)<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Also drilling or cutting large enough for plumbing holes in your 
frame don't sound like a good idea.&nbsp; <BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm using an electric dump valve on my rebiuld , with an access hatch 
incase of a snafu with the valve.&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Trike</FONT></HTML>

--part1_80.134f4865.292b3948_boundary--


------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 05:38:18 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ir Tools

Here is my experience with the electric/air debate.
Air tools last much longer than electric as a general rule but I refuse
to use them when at work because they blow too much dust about.
I refuse them at mainly government construction projects due to all the
asbestos everywhere.
It is not just myself I might kill but everyone within fifty feet with
the stuff.

If possible, always buy Milwaukee brand electric tools or some other good
brand. The best way to tell how long a tool might last is look for the
made in China/Mexico sticker. If it has one then put it back on the shelf
because they are usually always junk.

Mike Kent 


------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:20:40 -0500
From: "Elisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Argosy end caps

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004B_01C17193.DB8767E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Wow, it's beautiful.  I have the same awning fabric.=20
Is there a site anywhere that has a history of Argosy and what years had =
what options?  I would LOVE to find a rear door model!!!
Elisa
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Charlie/Betty Burke=20
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
  Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 10:18 PM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Argosy end caps


  Well since you asked:
  http://home.velocitus.net/cbburke/charlie's/argosy/argosy.html
  will get you there.

  Charlie



------=_NextPart_000_004B_01C17193.DB8767E0
Content-Type: text/html;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080>Wow, it's beautiful.&nbsp; I have the same =
awning=20
fabric. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080>Is there a site anywhere that has a history =
of Argosy=20
and what years had what options?&nbsp; I would LOVE to find a rear door=20
model!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Elisa</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Charlie/Betty Burke</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 19, 2001 =
10:18=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Argosy end =
caps</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>Well since you asked:<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://home.velocitus.net/cbburke/charlie's/argosy/argosy.html">h=
ttp://home.velocitus.net/cbburke/charlie's/argosy/argosy.html</A><BR>will=
=20
  get you there.<BR><BR>Charlie<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004B_01C17193.DB8767E0--



------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:00:41 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: December Wired

I didn't like Christopher Deam's psychedelic design to begin with and I like
it even less now. His non-functional panels and artsy fartsy ideas to show
us how "far out" he is may have impressed him but it didn't do a thing for
me. I can elaborate if my position is still unclear.

s/Georgia Hillbilly
& 2nd generation Airstreamer

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 22:12
Subject: [VAC] December Wired


> The only objection I have is a quote by the designer, Christopher Deam. He
> said, about Airstreams shrinking customer base, "Young people aren't going
> to get in that old trailer that hillbillies and your parents used..."
>
> What's with that?
>





------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:26:07 -0600
From: "gumking" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bad Karma

We saw it, wanted to know why they ( TV people) would kill a good Airstream?
They must have a perverse why of thinking!

The Vasquez's
'67 Caravel
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard P. Kenan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, November 19, 2001 10:21 PM
Subject: [VAC] Bad Karma


>      Did anyone see "Crossing Jordan" on NBC tonight?  They are chasing a
>serial killer called "Digger," who abducts young women and buries them
>alive.  Get this:  Digger lives in a trailer park...in an Airstream...looks
>like about 27 ft.  Not good to have serial killers pulling Airstreams.
>      It gets worse...they get to close to him, and he leaves in his truck,
>leaving a *burning* Airstream behind.  Looked very real; so, they may have
>actually burned one.  Horrors!  Bad dreams tonight.
>
>- Dick
>(5368)
>
>"Think like a man of action.  Act like a man of thought."
>- Henri Bergson
>Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
>Retired and loving it!
>WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
>Atlanta
>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:58:27 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Argosy end caps


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Weeks"
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 5:40 PM


> Richard:
>
> I have a 75 Argosy 26 and love it. Mine has fiberglass end caps, not steel
> ones, and thus I have had no problems with dissimilar metals or paint
> sticking.

Argosy Experts:

A year or two ago I mentioned in a message to the group what someone who
claimed to know about these matters told me re: the composition of the
Argosy endcaps.  He told me that they were fiberglass.  I looked at this
particular trailer and decided that it sure looked like fiberglass to me.
Not knowing one way or the other (I thought they were steel) I passed this
piece of info on to the group for comment.

I was then informed, in no uncertain terms, that the caps were steel and to
suggest otherwise was "rubbish"  (among other things, as I recall).

So just for the record, anybody know what is the story here?

GQ '67 Safari




------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:30:13 -0500
From: "DH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: A thank you.

I am somewhat new to the VAC, but I wanted to take this opportunity to thank
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson for his knowledgeable assistance on a multitude of
subjects.  He has been a valuable asset to me and I am sure many of you.  I
also want to thank other members for there assistance and help.  This is a
great place to learn about and share knowledge on a subject that most all of
us hold dearly-Vintage Airstream Travel Trailers.  It is definitely in my
blood.  Thanks again, Dave H.   I



------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:40:02 -0500
From: "DH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: toilet rot

Hi Ray,
Just a thought on my project, a 67 GT.  The main vent to the black water
tank was busted at the tank and I relied it with PVC glue and cleaner and it
held very well.  I then added fiberglass cloth and resin to reinforce the
break and now it is VERY STRONG.  I hope this helps you.  Dave H.



------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:28:48 US/Mountain
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Argosy end caps

My guess is fiberglass inside, steel outside.  By the time they started making 
Argosys, they had already changed from aluminum to fiberglass for Airstream 
interior end caps, so they probably used it for the interior of Argosys as well 
(?).  

A magnet would confirm whether the cap was steel or not.  And anyone who has 
drilled the inside wall of their trailer to attach accessories should have a 
good idea of what kind of material it was made of, although I think the 
term "end cap" refers to the exterior(?). 

Besides, with Airstream, questions like this often depend on the year and month 
of manufacture, which factory it came from, what parts were available that 
week, what kind of mood the foreman happened to be in that day, what new ideas 
were being tested, etc.

I can only provide guesses and more questions.  Charlie Burke--can you give us 
the definitive answer?

Don 
'63 Avion  


> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Weeks"
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 5:40 PM
> 
> 
> > Richard:
> >
> > I have a 75 Argosy 26 and love it. Mine has fiberglass end caps, not steel
> > ones, and thus I have had no problems with dissimilar metals or paint
> > sticking.
> 
> Argosy Experts:
> 
> A year or two ago I mentioned in a message to the group what someone who
> claimed to know about these matters told me re: the composition of the
> Argosy endcaps.  He told me that they were fiberglass.  I looked at this
> particular trailer and decided that it sure looked like fiberglass to me.
> Not knowing one way or the other (I thought they were steel) I passed this
> piece of info on to the group for comment.
> 
> I was then informed, in no uncertain terms, that the caps were steel and to
> suggest otherwise was "rubbish"  (among other things, as I recall).
> 
> So just for the record, anybody know what is the story here?
> 
> GQ '67 Safari
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
>  
> 


---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/




------------------------------


End of VACList-Digest  #129
************************************



To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text

 

Reply via email to