VACList-Digest Wednesday, December 26, 2001 Issue 162
Today's Topics:
1. hello
2. Re: hello
3. Re: 6Volt Blues
4. Re:
5. 12 volt 101
6. The Dutch are back!
7. 1969 Tradewind
8. black tank removal
9. Re: 1969 Tradewind
10. Re: 1969 Tradewind
11. Airstream tenters
12. need weight-'68 26 footer??
13. Re: 1969 Tradewind
14. Re: need weight-'68 26 footer??
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Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 20:06:02 -0700
From: "Gene Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: hello
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="Windows-1252"
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Dear Airstream friends,
Just a few words of introduction....
My dear wife Lori and I live full time in Phoenix and bought our first =
Airstream three years ago, a '72, 27' Overlander. What a learning =
experience. I am a woodworker so promptly began a restoration and redid =
the interior with cherry cabinets and furniture. Then we came upon a =
wonderful piece of property in the Sierra Nevada foothills, Nevada City =
, CA and decided it was the perfect retirement spot. Boondocked the =
remodeled Overlander on the property and began to plan our future "quiet =
life". That was great! But, both still having full time jobs in =
Phoenix, we missed camping on the weekends, so had to find another =
Airstream. Found a classified on the web and located a perfect '68 =
Globetrotter in Riverside. Managed to make a deal and we able to enjoy =
Airstream pleasures again on the weekends when we were not at Nevada =
City ranch.=20
Now, we didn't plan this but a few months ago in Sacramento we came upon =
a airstream parked on the curb with a for sale sign. Of course curious, =
we drove past a couple times and a woman popped her head out and said =
"do you want to buy this trailer?" Not really wanting a third =
airstream, we looked at each other cautiously but could not resist a =
"look see". This airstream thing seems to have a way of getting under =
your skin! An hour later we were towing it away with $900 less in cash =
having made a homeless woman and her daughter even more homeless =
(actually I think our cash saved her from homelessness for a while =
because I'm certain she could not have been living in that trailer). =
Nothing worked and it was very trashed inside. So, our plan is to clean =
it up and redo enough of it to use it as an "office" at the ranch and as =
a guest bedroom until we get the property developed. =20
So now for the fun (or is it the tough part). I've ripped pretty much =
everything out and of course discovered the subfloor badly rotted from =
water damage under the windows. I've replaced sections of it but need =
to figure out the best way to stop the windows from leaking. The =
trailer is a '72, 31' Soverign with "skylight" six inch high windows =
above every side window. I think those things are what is leaking and =
the water is running down inside the walls to the floor. Has anyone had =
experience sealing those things? Looks like taking out all those rivets =
holding the frame to reseal would be a major project. Any advice would =
be appreciated. =20
Gene Johnson
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<DIV>Dear Airstream friends,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Just a few words of introduction....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>My dear wife Lori and I live full time in Phoenix and bought our =
first=20
Airstream three years ago, a '72, 27' Overlander. What a =
learning=20
experience. I am a woodworker so promptly began a restoration and =
redid=20
the interior with cherry cabinets and furniture. Then we came upon =
a=20
wonderful piece of property in the Sierra Nevada foothills, Nevada City =
, CA and=20
decided it was the perfect retirement spot. Boondocked the =
remodeled=20
Overlander on the property and began to plan our future "quiet=20
life". That was great! But, both still having full time =
jobs in=20
Phoenix, we missed camping on the weekends, so had to find another=20
Airstream. Found a classified on the web and located a perfect '68 =
Globetrotter in Riverside. Managed to make a deal and we able to =
enjoy=20
Airstream pleasures again on the weekends when we were not at Nevada =
City ranch.=20
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Now, we didn't plan this but a few months ago in Sacramento we came =
upon a=20
airstream parked on the curb with a for sale sign. Of course =
curious, we=20
drove past a couple times and a woman popped her head out and said "do =
you want=20
to buy this trailer?" Not really wanting a third airstream, we =
looked at=20
each other cautiously but could not resist a "look see". This =
airstream=20
thing seems to have a way of getting under your skin! An hour =
later we=20
were towing it away with $900 less in cash having made a homeless woman =
and her=20
daughter even more homeless (actually I think our cash saved her from=20
homelessness for a while because I'm certain she could not have been =
living in=20
that trailer). Nothing worked and it was very trashed =
inside. So,=20
our plan is to clean it up and redo enough of it to use it as an =
"office" at the=20
ranch and as a guest bedroom until we get the property developed. =
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>So now for the fun (or is it the tough part). I've ripped =
pretty much=20
everything out and of course discovered the subfloor badly rotted from =
water=20
damage under the windows. I've replaced sections of it but need to =
figure=20
out the best way to stop the windows from leaking. The trailer is =
a '72,=20
31' Soverign with "skylight" six inch high windows above every side=20
window. I think those things are what is leaking and the water is =
running=20
down inside the walls to the floor. Has anyone had experience =
sealing=20
those things? Looks like taking out all those rivets holding the =
frame to=20
reseal would be a major project. Any advice would be=20
appreciated. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Gene Johnson</DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 20:48:33 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: hello
The typical recommendation for resealing the Vista View windows is the
reseal along the top of the window frame were it sits against the skin
with a product called Vulkem. Vulkem is a urethane based sealant. It is
available from a number of sources in a number of blends. Any Airstream
dealer will have it as does the Airstream Dreams web site. Do not use
silicone based sealants on your Airstreams. While they will appear to
hold and seal, in fact they will not. And once on it is very difficult
to remove. In fact, if that is what is now on the 72 it must be removed
before sealing it.
Removing the window it's self is a major project normally undertaken
only when the glass is broken and in need of replacement.
It is not uncommon for a leak as you describe it to come from an area
above the windows. In a case like yours a thorough inspection of the
entire roof for loose or missing rivets, loosen seams, or cracked
sealant is called for. Using Vulkem and Alcoa's Gutter Seal or a like
product all seams and other penetrations should be resealed. Again, if
there is silicone up there now it must be removed first.
Charlie
Gene Johnson wrote:
> Dear Airstream friends, Just a few words of introduction.... My dear
> wife Lori and I live full time in Phoenix and bought our first
> Airstream three years ago, a '72, 27' Overlander. What a learning
> experience. I am a woodworker so promptly began a restoration and
> redid the interior with cherry cabinets and furniture. Then we came
> upon a wonderful piece of property in the Sierra Nevada foothills,
> Nevada City , CA and decided it was the perfect retirement spot.
> Boondocked the remodeled Overlander on the property and began to plan
> our future "quiet life". That was great! But, both still having full
> time jobs in Phoenix, we missed camping on the weekends, so had to
> find another Airstream. Found a classified on the web and located a
> perfect '68 Globetrotter in Riverside. Managed to make a deal and we
> able to enjoy Airstream pleasures again on the weekends when we were
> not at Nevada City ranch. Now, we didn't plan this but a few months
> ago in Sacramento we came upon a airstream parked on the curb with a
> for sale sign. Of course curious, we drove past a couple times and a
> woman popped her head out and said "do you want to buy this trailer?"
> Not really wanting a third airstream, we looked at each other
> cautiously but could not resist a "look see". This airstream thing
> seems to have a way of getting under your skin! An hour later we were
> towing it away with $900 less in cash having made a homeless woman and
> her daughter even more homeless (actually I think our cash saved her
> from homelessness for a while because I'm certain she could not have
> been living in that trailer). Nothing worked and it was very trashed
> inside. So, our plan is to clean it up and redo enough of it to use
> it as an "office" at the ranch and as a guest bedroom until we get the
> property developed. So now for the fun (or is it the tough part).
> I've ripped pretty much everything out and of course discovered the
> subfloor badly rotted from water damage under the windows. I've
> replaced sections of it but need to figure out the best way to stop
> the windows from leaking. The trailer is a '72, 31' Soverign with
> "skylight" six inch high windows above every side window. I think
> those things are what is leaking and the water is running down inside
> the walls to the floor. Has anyone had experience sealing those
> things? Looks like taking out all those rivets holding the frame to
> reseal would be a major project. Any advice would be
> appreciated. Gene Johnson
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 03:07:37 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 6Volt Blues
One name for the "thingy" is "voltage regulator." Or could be called an
instrument voltage dropper.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 14:01:54
From: "Doug Green" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Does any one have info on where to obtain the push rods for 1955 windows? Not
crank. Oh also have 1973 manual, does anyone want for paying shipping?</P>
<P>Sue WBCCI
5761<BR><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]></P></DIV></mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]></mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]></mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]></div><br
clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmai
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 09:59:50 -0500
From: Jim Bounds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 12 volt 101
I deal with pretty complicated 12 volt systems every day working on GMC
motorhomes so if you want to talk about 12 volt then lets have some fun. I
also rewired ambulances for a while so there aren't many wire wads I'm
afraid of!
The 63 Tradewind I am working on right now has pretty simple 12 volt and
110 AC systems. The 12 volt system uses a "common ground" circuit. The 12
volt negative ground power supply (batter and a 4 amp (Daytron brand)
charger supplies power through one circuit breaker. The "hot" or positive
side of the circuit runs a single wire to each 12 volt accessory. They are
connected in parallel which means all the hot wires are connected together
electrically and the "ground" or negative lead to each fixture is
connected to the aluminum of the trailer. That hook up tells us it is a
common ground circuit. Some circuits may supply a ground wire to the
fixture but still may be connected to ground somewhere else which still
makes it a common ground system.
There is nothing wrong with a common ground system, actually you will have
less chance of problems due to corroded cremps and wires using a common
ground system. You will also use less wire (1/2 as much) if you are
looking to rewire your system. There are sometimes problems connecting
electronic 12 volt devices due to differential ground potential. This
situation can cause a "hum" or some other form of static from the battery
charger or power converter.
The trailer I'm working with is wired with good hi temp jacketed wire so
unless you know of a shorted wire issue, I would not go through the hassle
of replacing the wiring and reuse the original wires.
I am going to install a fuse panel and connect the original circuits to it
for added protection, the original circuit was lacking in this area. I
will fuse each new circuit I run through a separate fuse on the new fuse
panel. I will be using "ATC" fuses, those are the colored plug in fuses
you see in newer cars. They are easier to see if they are blown and have a
more reliable contact. I am going to try and separate some of the original
circuit, they have them all connected together, it is a better idea to have
different circuits separated so its easier to trace problems and you have
the option of installing larger or smaller fuses as each circuit requires
to protect everything better.
I am also going to take out the battery charger and install a new true
power converter. A battery charger is a "dirty" sawtooth voltage while a
power converter supplies a "clean" stable DC voltage. This clean voltage
is much better for the battery and eliminate the "buzz" you get in 12 volt
electronic devices such as radios, etc. A 30 amp dual level charge unit
will work great in this application. If you look to do more dry camping,
you may want to consider a 40 or 45 amp converter for a faster charge on
deep cycle batteries.
Batteries, the original location in the Tradewind I'm working with does not
hold a very large battery. I can't see how I would have a fun time dry
camping with that size battery. I'm going to install a deep cycle marine
style group 7 battery to be sure I've got juice. If you do this, you will
have to get rid of the old 4 amp charger, it will not be adequate for
charging a marine battery. The battery must also be in a sealed and vented
box to keep acid fumes outside the trailer. I'll do this by using a marine
battery box and vent it into the original battery compartment. The
original compartment will be used for adapters, extension cables or other
electrical related accessories.
Hope this helps someone, if you want to hear any more about the electrical
circuits I like to use, let me know.
Jim Bounds
--------------------------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 18:26:25 +0200
From: mani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: The Dutch are back!
Thank you all so much for your help for me and my family. After nearly a
year of informing, e-mailing, trying, administration and
. ...TRAVELING..., our Safari 1966 and the towcar, a Dodge Pick-up 1998,
are in front of our house in the Netherlands! Without your help this
would not have been possible.
Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.
Stefania, Dido, Doina and Victor Mani.
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 12:21:41 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 1969 Tradewind
Hello and Happy New Year! My wife and I were semi-looking for a used
travel trailer for some weekend trips. This would be our first trailer. We
noticed an Airstream in the neighborhood for sale and so decided to look at
it. We were surprised to find that it was a 1969 but looked anyway. Well,
you can guess where this is going, we both really liked this trailer,
everything worked, I could stand up in it (I'am 6ft 7in) and the price was
right. So, this 1969 Tradewind 25 ft. is now in the driveway and I am
learning all I can about it. This site is a great help. My first, of what I
am sure will be many, many questions....is about leaks. With snow covering
the top of the trailer while we were checking it out, there was a leak of
steady drips of water coming straight down through the air-conditioning unit.
I took off the inside vent cover but cannot tell where the leak is coming
from. I imagine that I have to seal around the collar on top...does this
sound right? Also, it looks like the front right window leaks. Do I have
to mess with rivits or can I re-seal the inner side of the window without
taking it out? Two significant questions are probably enough for now.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Tom in Utah
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 11:17:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Jon Fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: black tank removal
I'm trying to remove the black water tank on a 68 Overlander (26'). I have
received tremendously patient advice and even tools for this job from fellow
Airstreamers (my thanks to Joy, especially).
Unfortunately, I'm still a little stumped about what would seem the most
basic aspect of the project. Despite learning how to remove every
imaginable thingy that is connected TO the tank, I don't quite know how to
remove the tank ITSELF!
In particular, I am unsure about how to remove the belly pan beneath the
tank. There are two particular problems: 1)the sheet metal sits ON TOP of
the skid rail, rather than being riveted to the underside, and 2)there's a
90 degree bend on the forward end preventing it from being slid out to the
rear.
If anyone has any insight on this, or especially if anyone has photos of
this process (for us slow people), they would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
BTW, the puller is now officially commissioned with tranny temp gage,
tachometer and brake controller. Woohoo! Many thanks to all the folks who
have contributed information essential to these projects, both directly and
indirectly. Of course, with the van ready, the wife is even more curious as
to why we aren't out camping now.
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 13:39:14 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1969 Tradewind
Caulk seams and joints with Vulkem 116 or Aluminum seal for aluminum
gutters. Not silicone. Window seals may be available at Airstream
dealers or McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). On my '68 Caravel, my dad
put metal awnings (about 2" wide) over some of the window hinge areas to
stop rain that he wasn't successful at sealing otherwise.
Leaks at the window may actually be leaks higher up where the water is
running to the window before showing.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 14:59:44 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1969 Tradewind
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Gerald: Is the window seal you mentioned one complete piece and if so, do I
have to remove the window to install it? Tom
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Gerald: Is the window seal you
mentioned one complete piece and if so, do I have to remove the window to install it?
Tom</FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 17:10:20 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Airstream tenters
Hi fellow travelers,
If your Airstream is winterized and parked in the back yard under a blanket
of snow, but your tent is in the house along with the ice chest and Coleman
stove, then this post may be for you.
Each year when we stay at St. Lucie Locks COE Campground in Stuart, Florida
(off I-95 at US76) during the last two weeks of December, there are three
tent sites that are almost always empty. In contrast, the eight RV sites
have long been reserved since the previous April. The fifteen yacht berths
seldom have more than a few boats staying overnight.
Years ago, when our traveling included marathon runs (non stop driving) from
NY to FL for a few days in the sun, we searched for places like this. They
were few and far between. Most campgrounds were full with no room for
tenters. Or if there were tent sites, they were located as after thoughts
among the motor homes and trailers without a shred of privacy or quiet.
Again this year, at St. Lucie Locks, we've seen the three tent sites lie
vacant. They are waiting for Airstreamers (without their Airstreams) to
arrive with their suburbans filled with a tent, ice chest, stove, food box,
lawn chairs, clothes and some wood for a campfire.
Each level campsite is located directly on the intercoastal waterway with a
front row seat for watching boat traffic. There is a wood rail fence around
the sites. Fishing can be done from each campsite.
This small campground has a large open air pavilion with fifteen picnic
tables for group activities, a large fire ring on the ground outside the
pavilion, a pay phone, manicured lawn, a dump station and bathrooms with
showers (squeeky clean). The gate is locked each night (campers have the
combination). Both the host and volunteer family have been here for years.
It's like old home week when we return.
As with all COE campgrounds, reservations can be made at www.reserveusa.com
and confirmed. Marathoners may want to do this just to be on the safe side.
The cost is $16 a night for a first rate campground (14 nights maximum) on
an active waterway with wild life galore for watching.
Those who want to stay in the area longer can go around the corner from the
COE to the Martin County Park (Phipps) for $6 a night. The sites are larger,
but the ambiance is not. There are showers and bathrooms, but they leave a
lot to be desired. The noise level from I-95 is noticeable. The nice thing
about this campground is there are always RV and tent sites available for
boondockers. If nothing else, a short stay at this campground provides time
to plan and arrange where to stay for the next couple of weeks.
So -- for anyone with cabin fever and an inclination for a 24 hour drive,
this might be an option,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it
to others." William Allen White
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 15:18:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: need weight-'68 26 footer??
Hi all,
Today I decided to start pulling over and
knocking on doors or leaving notes when I see
airstreams that look unloved or forgotten. I
cannot believe it, but this actually works. Found
two on the way home from Christmas, and within 30
miles of my house. One of them I've been looking
at every time I drive from the coast to Salem.
I've looked at that darned thing probably 25
times in the last year and always wonder about
it. Well, guess what.. the guy will sell it. It's
newer than I want but not too shabby for the
price. Who says I can't get an older one later?
Anyway, I need to know the weights. It's 1968
double axle Overlander, 26 feet. Who has one of
these or knows the trailer weight and tongue
weight?
PS: The other one is older, probably 50's. I
couldn't get too close to it on account of the
large snarly drooling dogs tied up next to it.
Looks like it might be in very bad shape. It's
got trees growing around it (and who knows, maybe
in it) and has been painted sky blue (yeeeesh).
I'm waiting for the call back on that one tonight
to see if it's for sale.
Jill
=====
What if the Hokey-Pokey is REALLY what it's all about?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 17:18:45 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1969 Tradewind
I'm thinking gasket material glued to the fixed window frame. Probably
comes from the Airstream dealer as a strip to be cut and fitted at the
corners. The gaskets from McMaster-Carr are for sure gasket stock that
has to be cut and fitted. The only place difficult to fit may be at the
top of the window, but that should be too hard with the window opened
wide and maybe using pencil sized sticks to position the gasket.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 17:50:00 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: need weight-'68 26 footer??
Check page 109 on my airstream web page starting at
http://homepages.isunet.net/geraldj
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
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