VACList-Digest Friday, December 21, 2001 Issue 157
Today's Topics:
1. Re: JUNKMAIL '64 Overlander Windows
2. Re: winter towing
3. Old Suburban furnace motor
4. Re: winter towing
5. Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
6. Re: vac my subject line
7. Re: winter towing
8. Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
9. Re: e: winter towing
10. Re: winter towing
11. Re: winter towing
12. Re: winter towing
13. Re: '64 Overlander Windows
14. Re: Window malfunctioning
15. blast from past
16. Re: [A/S] 1958 Globetrotter...
17. Re: apology (blast from...)
18. Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
19. Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
20. Re: winter towing
21. Re: 1964 Window problem
22. Re: '64 Overlander Windows
23. Re: winter towing
24. Re: '64 Overlander Windows
25. Re: '64 Overlander Windows
26. Re: winter towing
27. Re: winter towing
28. Re: winter towing
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:41:28 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: JUNKMAIL '64 Overlander Windows
My 64 overlander doesnt have any bottom latches , nor is there holes from one
ever being there . They dont shut well either , one side hits first .There is
only one crank , on one side , unlike my former 63 ,which had two cranks and
two latches . those windows worked much better .
Chris
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> Ted,
>
> If you have not yet figured it out. The windows have latches to keep them
> shut. They are located on the bottom of the frame.
>
> Scott
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "
> Subject: [VAC] '64 Overlander Windows
>
> > I have the opportunity to purchase a 1964 Overlander, but there seems to
> > be a problem with the windows.
> > the windows themselves refuse to
> > stay closed. With the windows cranked closed, you can still pull them
> > all the way open from the outside of the coach. I assume this isn't
> > supposed to happen. :)
> >
>
> > Thanks,
> > Ted
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:57:34 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
At 06:45 PM 12/20/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Dick,
> If you lock up wheels, they skid uncontrollably. A kinda neat
>experiment is to find a snow or ice-covered parking lot, get your
>vehicle going about 25 MPH or so and apply the parking brake hard.
>You'll go 'round and 'round, totally out of control.
I believe Don's demo on that; I don't have to verify it further. Besides,
I had plenty of experience (involuntary) on glare ice in Ohio. I once slid
on a road while moving only about 5 mph because of the drainage "hump" in
the center of the road. No fun.
>You may or may not want the trailer brakes to 'lead' the tow vehicle
>slightly, but you sure don't want the brakes to lock up.
Right...and on ice, a small perturbation can break the tires from the
road. Then you don't have any braking., and it's more or less irrelevant
whether the brakes are locked. Of course, as you regain control, you want
to be sure the brakes are not activated at all, so that your wheels wukk
begin to roll again ASAP, regaining rolling friction, however small that
may be on ice.
- Dick
(5368)
> <<Jim>>
>
>"Richard P. Kenan" wrote:
> >
> > These comments have set me thinking for a change. Don Grayson's
> > demonstrations at the large rallies show that when the rear wheels of a
> > vehicle skid, the vehicle becomes uncontrollable, whereas skidding front
> > wheels will continue stably *if left alone*. A trailer is articulated at
> > the hitch, so maybe that demo does not apply. If it does, then the comment
> > by - I think - Jim Smith to make the tow vehicle brake first would make
> > sense, since then one would not run the risk of breaking the trailer tires
> > from the road. My experience driving on ice (in Central Ohio -
> > flatland) is totally without any trailer; I found that it takes almost
> > nothing to break the wheels loose on ice.
> > If the demo does not apply to an articulated vehicle, then the
> > usual "trailer brakes on just before tow vehicle" would make sense.
> > I spoke with a musician in N. Dakota last summer who pulled a huge
> > fiver from TX to ND in winter. His experience on ice - the one that made
> > him give winter gigs up - was that he had a terrible time keeping his huge
> > dually ahead of the fiver (he is *not* underequipped for towing), which
> > kept trying to pass him.
> > Does anyone have any reliable information on stability and order
> > of braking when towing in snow and/or ice (other than "don't do it;" that
> > would be *my* choice, but that may not be suitable/practical for others)?
> >
> > - Dick
> > (5368)
> >
> > At 11:46 PM 12/19/2001 -0600, you wrote:
> > >Hi Scott,
> > >
> > >Just make sure your trailer brakes come on before the tow vehicle,
> > >and that their stopping pressure exceeds the tow vehicle. In other
> > >words, it is better that the trailer stops the vehicle and stays behind
> > >it instead of leading it. hi hi Drive safe.
> > >
> > >At 06:54 PM 12/19/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > > > slow down, and avoid sudden moves all apply here. Any other tips?
> > > >Scott
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > >
> >
> > "Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
> > - Henri Bergson
> > Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
> > Retired and loving it!
> > WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
> > Atlanta
> > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>--
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:07:19 -0800 (PST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (David Josephson)
Subject: Old Suburban furnace motor
I've tried the usual places with no luck so far, wonder if the resources
of the VAC list might come up with something. My '72 Tradewind came with
an inoperative Suburban furnace, model N122A. The motor is toast --
burned windings in the armature and rattly bearings. Is there any source
for this motor? A normal car heater fan motor would fit with some
modifications but the shaft isn't long enough. The current list of
Suburban replacement motors, and those available for "older" Suburbans
at my local RV fixit place don't cover this model. I am trying to avoid
replacing this heater due to the hassle of fitting a new one to the old
opening under the sink.
--
David Josephson / Josephson Engineering / Santa Cruz CA / [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:28:37 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
A friend who used to drive tractor-trailer rigs a lot when not farming
told me an interesting story:
He was coming North through Ohio one cold day, cruising along at 50-60
MPH at night in a light rain. He happened to notice that oncoming
traffic seemed to be going very slowly, and many of them were running
with 2 wheels on the berm of the road. He took his foot off the throttle
and was horrified when the speedometer dropped almost instantly to about
5 MPH. Being quite aware of what's going on, he knew that he was on
glare ice and the drive wheels were sliding. Naturally, he got back on
the throttle, then took about 2 or 3 miles to get 'er slowed down.
Personally, I'm in the "tohellwithit" camp when it comes to driving on
ice, particularly with a trailer. I keep balancing the "I gotta be there
at suchandso a time" vs. "I'll be really, really, late and maybe dead if
I crash". That thinking makes it easier for me to stay put for a while
and stick to the Interstates when they get things cleared up.
Ice is horrible, rain on ice is impossible. I've fallen smack on my butt
while walking VERY carefully on ice in the rain. I've also failed to
negotiate a mild hill with a 4WD Jeep CJ5 when it was raining over
ice/packed snow. That was after sliding right across the road into a
shallow ditch as I left my drive.
<<Jim>>
"Richard P. Kenan" wrote:
>
> At 06:45 PM 12/20/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> >Dick,
> > If you lock up wheels, they skid uncontrollably. A kinda neat
> >experiment is to find a snow or ice-covered parking lot, get your
> >vehicle going about 25 MPH or so and apply the parking brake hard.
> >You'll go 'round and 'round, totally out of control.
>
> I believe Don's demo on that; I don't have to verify it further. Besides,
> I had plenty of experience (involuntary) on glare ice in Ohio. I once slid
> on a road while moving only about 5 mph because of the drainage "hump" in
> the center of the road. No fun.
>
> >You may or may not want the trailer brakes to 'lead' the tow vehicle
> >slightly, but you sure don't want the brakes to lock up.
>
> Right...and on ice, a small perturbation can break the tires from the
> road. Then you don't have any braking., and it's more or less irrelevant
> whether the brakes are locked. Of course, as you regain control, you want
> to be sure the brakes are not activated at all, so that your wheels wukk
> begin to roll again ASAP, regaining rolling friction, however small that
> may be on ice.
>
> - Dick
> (5368)
>
> > <<Jim>>
> >
> >"Richard P. Kenan" wrote:
> > >
> > > These comments have set me thinking for a change. Don Grayson's
> > > demonstrations at the large rallies show that when the rear wheels of a
> > > vehicle skid, the vehicle becomes uncontrollable, whereas skidding front
> > > wheels will continue stably *if left alone*. A trailer is articulated at
> > > the hitch, so maybe that demo does not apply. If it does, then the comment
> > > by - I think - Jim Smith to make the tow vehicle brake first would make
> > > sense, since then one would not run the risk of breaking the trailer tires
> > > from the road. My experience driving on ice (in Central Ohio -
> > > flatland) is totally without any trailer; I found that it takes almost
> > > nothing to break the wheels loose on ice.
> > > If the demo does not apply to an articulated vehicle, then the
> > > usual "trailer brakes on just before tow vehicle" would make sense.
> > > I spoke with a musician in N. Dakota last summer who pulled a huge
> > > fiver from TX to ND in winter. His experience on ice - the one that made
> > > him give winter gigs up - was that he had a terrible time keeping his huge
> > > dually ahead of the fiver (he is *not* underequipped for towing), which
> > > kept trying to pass him.
> > > Does anyone have any reliable information on stability and order
> > > of braking when towing in snow and/or ice (other than "don't do it;" that
> > > would be *my* choice, but that may not be suitable/practical for others)?
> > >
> > > - Dick
> > > (5368)
> > >
> > > At 11:46 PM 12/19/2001 -0600, you wrote:
> > > >Hi Scott,
> > > >
> > > >Just make sure your trailer brakes come on before the tow vehicle,
> > > >and that their stopping pressure exceeds the tow vehicle. In other
> > > >words, it is better that the trailer stops the vehicle and stays behind
> > > >it instead of leading it. hi hi Drive safe.
> > > >
> > > >At 06:54 PM 12/19/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > > > > slow down, and avoid sudden moves all apply here. Any other tips?
> > > > >Scott
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > > >
> > > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > "Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
> > > - Henri Bergson
> > > Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
> > > Retired and loving it!
> > > WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
> > > Atlanta
> > > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > >
> >
> >--
> >
> > <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> > <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> > <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
> "Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
> - Henri Bergson
> Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
> Retired and loving it!
> WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
> Atlanta
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:31:39 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
David,
How is the shaft secured into the armature? Is it a simple press fit?
If so, it should be fairly easy to make a new shaft of the correct
length and replace the existing one. It's probably a standard size like
5/16" so you could use drill rod or somesuch for shafting.
<<Jim>>
David Josephson wrote:
>
> I've tried the usual places with no luck so far, wonder if the resources
> of the VAC list might come up with something. My '72 Tradewind came with
> an inoperative Suburban furnace, model N122A. The motor is toast --
> burned windings in the armature and rattly bearings. Is there any source
> for this motor? A normal car heater fan motor would fit with some
> modifications but the shaft isn't long enough. The current list of
> Suburban replacement motors, and those available for "older" Suburbans
> at my local RV fixit place don't cover this model. I am trying to avoid
> replacing this heater due to the hassle of fitting a new one to the old
> opening under the sink.
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:59:45 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: vac my subject line
My ISP has got new mail filters which think VAC listmail is spam ,and they label
it junkmail on the subject line .Which we know it isnt , but I`ll have to talk to
them and straighten it out .But I think when I reply it labels my reply , or at
least it looks that way when I get it back .I just dont want anyone getting the
wrong idea ! I`ll try to remember to delete it from the subject line till they fix
it
Chris
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:55:45 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
As the author of the original post, I whole heartedly agree with you Jim
about not driving on ice...this is why I was asking about snow & slush!
Driving solo on ice is foolhardy at best. No way I would take my Airstream
on any road knowing that there was ice. I like my trailer the way it is
thank you! And if while on the road conditions changed to ice, or even
threatened to ice I would be one of the first ones to find a safe place to
park! I was just looking for pointers on how to handle the rig in bad
weather if I find myself in an unexpected winter storm when my wife and I go
to visit parents in Florida over the Christmas break.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: winter towing
SNIP------------
>
> Personally, I'm in the "tohellwithit" camp when it comes to driving on
> ice, particularly with a trailer. I keep balancing the "I gotta be there
> at suchandso a time" vs. "I'll be really, really, late and maybe dead if
> I crash". That thinking makes it easier for me to stay put for a while
SNIP---
<<Jim>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:40:43 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
Maybe take to a shop that rebuilds altenators. They should be able to
rebuild the motor I would think.
I was lucky with mine and just had to solder wire back to the brushes and
clean it up real good.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Josephson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 5:07 PM
Subject: [VAC] Old Suburban furnace motor
> I've tried the usual places with no luck so far, wonder if the resources
> of the VAC list might come up with something. My '72 Tradewind came with
> an inoperative Suburban furnace, model N122A. The motor is toast --
> burned windings in the armature and rattly bearings. Is there any source
> for this motor? A normal car heater fan motor would fit with some
> modifications but the shaft isn't long enough. The current list of
> Suburban replacement motors, and those available for "older" Suburbans
> at my local RV fixit place don't cover this model. I am trying to avoid
> replacing this heater due to the hassle of fitting a new one to the old
> opening under the sink.
>
> --
> David Josephson / Josephson Engineering / Santa Cruz CA /
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 21:57:58 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e: winter towing
The satalite photo looks like you`ve got a good shot at it for the next day or
so ,go for it and have a safe trip !! .I have towed a caravel on
snowy,slushy,hilly ,country roads ,with questionable tires .I had just bought it
and it HAD to be moved that day because the house where it was sold .The longest
twenty miles I`ve ever towed , Never again.
I made it ok , it was melting ,and I was lucky .
I just put my burb in the ditch the other day, wet but slippery snow ,missed the
trees by inches ,was going real slow ,but it slid in anyway as I attempted to
stop for a stop sign . No damage but I wouldnt have wanted my trailer behind me
.
Up here , they race foreign cars on the frozen lakes , they take big self
tapping screws and run them thru the tires into a nut . So we know about this
stuff , and they dont race if it snows so they dont have to haul the car
trailers to get to the lake .
Chris - from the frozen north
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> And if while on the road conditions changed to ice, or even
> threatened to ice I would be one of the first ones to find a safe place to
> park! I was just looking for pointers on how to handle the rig in bad
> weather if I find myself in an unexpected winter storm when my wife and I go
> to visit parents in Florida over the Christmas break.
>
> Scott
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 22:06:49 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: winter towing
I have to say that I am in the same mind set about driving on ice/snow -
there are so many variables and everything can change so fast, snow to ice
with just a slight change in elevation/temperature. I would stop somewhere
as soon as I could safely get off the road if I have my choice. And another
thing is the ability of the other drivers on the road, out here in Colorado
we get a lot of skiers from sunny warm climates, who rent an SUV and think
they can drive on snow/ice because they have a macho car and endanger the
lives of those of us who are capable of driving on snow safely. Slush is bad
as well, pulls you all over the road when it is deep and visibility is
another factor no one has mentioned, blowing snow at night is awful and can
be bad in the day time as well. I am a fair weather camper, I am afraid!
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 23:18:06 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
At 08:28 PM 12/20/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>A friend who used to drive tractor-trailer rigs a lot when not farming
>told me an interesting story:
>
>He was coming North through Ohio one cold day, cruising along at 50-60
>MPH at night in a light rain... [snip]
Great story...and a lesson for us all...it should help convince
most of us to join the "tohellwithit" school.
>Ice is horrible, rain on ice is impossible. I've fallen smack on my butt
>while walking VERY carefully on ice in the rain... [snip]
Me, too. No fun at all.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 23:19:07 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: winter towing
Hello All,
I have been teaching truck driver safety for 15 years and drove over the road for 8.
You do not want the trailer tires to skid before the tow vehicle, they loose traction
and will chase you all over the road. DO NOT set the brake controller to come on bef
On a big truck there is a hand brake for the trailer, ask anyone who ownes their own
truck and pulls a company trailer that they will stop the unit with this "Johnny Bar"
to save the tractor brakes and only use the trailer brakes to stop or slow down. Not
I had almost 900,000 miles of safe truck driving, learned form the best (my dad 3.3
mill of safe trucking miles) and have coached many a truck driver to a millions of
miles of safe driving, the trailer that skids before the tow vehile will cause you
more
I just tested it with my toys, the skidding wheel will try to pass the roller!
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
SR. Safety Consulting Manager
J. J. Keller & Associates Inc.
In a message dated Thu, 20 Dec 2001 3:53:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Bob Hightower"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>
> > These comments have set me thinking for a change. Don Grayson's
> > demonstrations at the large rallies show that when the rear wheels of a
> > vehicle skid, the vehicle becomes uncontrollable, whereas skidding front
> > wheels will continue stably *if left alone*. A trailer is articulated at
> > the hitch, so maybe that demo does not apply. If it does, then the
> comment
> > by - I think - Jim Smith to make the tow vehicle brake first would make
> > sense, since then one would not run the risk of breaking the trailer tires
> > from the road.
> > If the demo does not apply to an articulated vehicle, then the
> > usual "trailer brakes on just before tow vehicle" would make sense.
>
> If he didn't do the demo with an articulated vehicle, then I wouldn't apply
> what you saw to what will happen. Apples to oranges, IMHO
>
> > Does anyone have any reliable information on stability and order
> > of braking when towing in snow and/or ice (other than "don't do it;" that
> > would be *my* choice, but that may not be suitable/practical for others)?
> >
>
> I have no empirical evidince, but I did tow a travel trailer in Alaska from
> '68 to '71, including in the winter on the ice (they didn't plow the
> highways back then). I had my brakes set up to apply slightly before the tow
> vehicle, and had no problems at all. If I did get into a skid or the tow
> vehicle got squirrely, I tapped the manual lever on the controller so that
> the trailer stayed behind me. That tended to keep the tow vehicle straight,
> as well. All this, of course, while taking my foot off the gas pedal :^)
>
> No way did I want to have my rig all over the road in -40 weather.
>
> Bob Hightower WBCCI 11365
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 22:34:43 -0600
From: KEVIN D ALLEN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '64 Overlander Windows
Greeting Ted!
----- Original Message -----
From: "T Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 12:17 AM
Subject: [VAC] '64 Overlander Windows
> I have the opportunity to purchase a 1964 Overlander, but there seems to
> be a problem with the windows. Aside from the fact that many of the
> cranks are missing or non-functional, the windows themselves refuse to
> stay closed. With the windows cranked closed, you can still pull them
> all the way open from the outside of the coach. I assume this isn't
> supposed to happen. :)
Unlike some of the Brand X trailers of similar vintage, the windows on a '64
Overlander have a separate latching mechanism that is not associated with
the crank/lever mechanism. Depending upon the size of the window, there
will be at least one and in most cases two latches found in the lower
corners of the window opening. Sometimes it can take some contorsions to
crank the window closed while keeping the locking levers raised -- this can
be a particular problem on the front and rear "picture" windows where there
are two operators and two latches. Before having new operators installed on
my windows, I had to resort to using duct tape to hold the window closed on
the outside while I latched the retainers on the inside.
The operators as well as the handles themselves are readily available for
the regular windows. My regular Airstream dealer, Ace Fogdall RV in Cedar
Falls, IA stocked all of the necessary components to replace all of my
faulty mechanisms. The only ones that may prove problematic are the
operators for the jalousie windows beside the entrance door. I have been
advised by at least two repair facilities that parts for these Hehr jalousie
windows are much harder to find - - but my originals show little if any sign
of wear despite near constant use when the trailer is being used.
>From your description, I almost wonder if the model year might be
mis-identified on this trailer. It almost sounds like you might be looking
at a newer model with the Corning windows which had a very different
latching mechanism from the Hehrs found on the '64. If you see Corning on
the window glass, it is quite likely that the trailer is a '66 to '68.
>
> My questions are, first of all, why is this happening? And secondly,
> what can I do to fix it?
If you are actually looking at a '64, both the operators and the handles are
readly available as are the locking levers. Airstream dealers who are
familiar with the vintage rigs shouldn't have too much difficulty sourcing
these window operaors and latches. I know several sources have been
mentioned, and I would add Ace Fogdall RV in Cedar Falls, Iowa as they
replaced virtaully all of the operators in my '64 Overlander just prior to
this past year's travel season.
>
> Thanks,
> Ted
> Good luck with your decision!
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 01:37:22 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Window malfunctioning
Dear Ted,
We have received new window regulators from Inland RV. You can contact Greg
there. Inlandrv.com should get you there. The regulators were correct but
since we had two types we don't have sufficient handles for both types. After
studying your windows closely you will see the nature of the beast. If the
windows are the only problem...get the rig!
If you have someone to help you it's a bit easier to study the problem. If
you have extra handles...let us know!!
Stuart and Bonnie Resor
* STUART MACARTHUR RESOR * ARCHITECT * 1268 BLUE SKY DRIVE * CARDIFF BY THE
SEA * CALIFORNIA * 92007-1005 * 760-753-8022 * FAX: 760-753-8058 *
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 00:44:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: blast from past
and, no, I'm not talking about 'gas'.
What's up sister? I've been whirling about
getting all sorts of things accomplished. I
can't remember if I told you (think I did) that I
moved to my family vacation home on the coast.
Depoe Bay to be exact. Been hanging out here
since end of September. I love it. I prefer the
weather in Bend, but there is just something
mystic about the ocean. The weather gets very
severe occasionally. Today was a weird little
springish sort of day. Took Munster to the beach
for a run. He agrees with me about liking it
here, but I don't think it has anything to do
with 'mysticism' but rather just all that
wide-open space to run on the beach. I swear he
smiles when we hit the sand and then he runs so
fast his lips flap in the wind. In fact, I have a
picture.. I'll post it... go to:
www.geocities.com/jillhari
I also posted pictures of depoe bay on my old
site (that is mostly torn down now). If you're
curious (this is a town so small there is no mail
delivery). That means we get free post office
boxes, though. WoooHOOO!
www.geocities.com/jillywonkenobe
Which reminds me, I have my own domain name and
regular web space. It's www.jillhari.com but it's
blank right now. Should have it somewhat going in
the next couple weeks.
I start school full time in January at the
University of Oregon in Eugene. Yep. That's
right. I finally did it. I'm double majoring in
Art/Metalsmithing and Medieval Studies. I do plan
to go to graduate school but I'm not sure which
area is going to spark my interest the most yet.
I'm very excited.
Been sewing a lot. I'm working on a 14th century
persian outfit for an event mid-january in
Seattle. I belong to the SCA (maybe you're
familiar.. started at Berkely in the 60's I
believe). It's medieval/renaissance re-enactment.
Pretty fun. Basically a bunch of adults who like
to dress up and pretend they've gone back in
time. Many people involved are serious about
history and authenticity.. many of them are
masters in their specialty. Some are just in it
to party and then there are those who think it's
all about Conan the Barbarian. They are useful
for a good laugh. Last year at my first camping
event (a big one) I saw what cher would have
looked like when she's about 70 if she could not
afford plastic surgery and if she were wondering
about nearly naked. It was a bit frightening.
Occasionally a few vampires and fairies show up
and ruin the whole medieval environment we try to
hard to create. Anyway, the persian outfit is
amazing. I have a sort of 'teacher' in my group.
She is a killer seamstress and has done a lot of
research on persian and viking cultures. The
group I camp with is 10th/11th century Viking (so
we're sort of 'slumming' in persian for this
particular event). I'll try to remember to post
some pictures and let you know where to see them.
Anyway, I've been doing some freelancing, graphic
design projects for my ex-company in Bend.. put
in a proposal for a web site for an architect in
Bend but don't know yet if I got the job.
How's the project scene around the house and
airstream dealings and stuff?
Pet Sheeba and tell her 'meow'. I should be in
San Francisco in March for the granulation class
that I postponed in September.
Hope all is well.
Later,
Jill
=====
What if the Hokey-Pokey is REALLY what it's all about?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:03:58 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S] 1958 Globetrotter...
on 12/16/01 7:58 PM, Tom and Linda at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Terry and Ed... Hi Terry, we know you and Sandie but don't think we have met
> Ed. We need some assistance please regarding a vintage Airstream, if
> possible.
>
Hi Tom and Linda,
Three ideas come to mind immediately.
1 - The most comprehensive source of data on Vintage Airstreams may be
obtained directly from archives collected by Tom Patterson.
2 - If you'd like to be part of a discussion with others who own Vintage
Airstreams, the place to go is the VAC email discussion group.
3 - Occasionally, two owners of Vintage Airstreams with "instant messaging"
on their computers get together and share solutions on a specific topic.
The archives include over 30,000 postings and cover every topic imaginable.
Solutions for problems with ANY AGE of Airstream may be found on this site.
Click the "search" icon. The topics of winterizing and electricity are well
covered. This website should be put on your computer's "favorites" toolbar.
Go to: >> http://www.tompatterson.com
The VAC daily email discussion group is available to anyone with an interest
in Airstreams. It is open to the general public and may be joined by merely
subscribing to it. Go to: >> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
The same goes for the Vintage Airstream Club. Anyone may join as a "friend."
Use the above web site for access to doing that. Those who own a Vintage
Airstream and join as "regular" members ($10) have access to the VAC
archives and receive the newsletter.
There is a general Airstream email discussion group for owners of any age
Airstream. To subscribe, go to the website and follow the directions. It's
at: >> http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/AirstreamList/
As for details about the 1958 Globetrotter, there are members on the VAC
email discussion group who own the exact year and model (or very close to
it) as your daughter and son-in-law. I'd suggest they join the group and
read the daily emails long enough to get an idea of how it works and then
ask away. I'm sure answers will be forthcoming.
While at the VAC website, go to the pictures sections and look for a 1958
Globetrotter (or thereabouts). Who knows, a picture may be there with the
owners standing in front of their 1958. If they have an email address and
subscribe to the VAC email discussion group, this would be a good contact.
> Thanks for any help you can offer us, or to anyone you can send us to that may
> be able to answer our questions. If you would like to welcome Cindy and
> Richard into Vintage Airstreaming, their e-mail address is...
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Hi Cindy and Richard,
Welcome to Vintage Airstreaming. It's an exciting lifestyle for restorers of
these fine old vehicles. There are hundreds of us who subscribe to both
email discussion groups. Most members check their email several times a
week even while traveling. Travelers may check it more or less often
depending on phones jacks being available. The reason I mention this is to
alert you to what may seem like a time delay between asking questions and
getting answers. If a week goes by and your question isn't answered, ask
again.
> We will be going to Florida the middle of January until mid-March and will
> look you up in the vintage section at Sarasota.
>
Tom and Linda, it'll be great to see you at Sarasota. Our plan is to park
with the handicappers. There will be other VAC members with us in the same
section. Many more will be in the vintage section. If you haven't considered
arriving in time for early parking, I'd encourage you to do that. Even then,
there will be many who arrive a day before early parking starts. They will
boondock in the fairground parking lot outside the gate. As you know, an
Airstreamer who arrives on time is late (grin).
> Terry, please say hi to Sandie for us. We wish you a wonderful holiday season
> and we hope to see you "Down the Road". Tom and Linda Holloman WBCCI #1115
>
Sandie says hi right back to you. Both of us are well. Our two kitties are
enjoying the warm weather and watching birds out the back window. The truck
and trailer ('78 Ford Van and '77 31' Airstream) are still going strong.
We've been visiting my mother in Jensen Beach, FL. Our two weeks at the COE
Campground (8 campsites) beside the St. Lucie Locks in Stuart, FL is from
Dec 15-28th, then it's off to Paradise Park for New Years eve. Enough of the
mundane.
Enjoy the holidays, stay sharp and drive smart,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"A small gift is better than a great promise." German proverb
To unsubscribe from this group, go to http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/AirstreamList/
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------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 01:03:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: apology (blast from...)
aside from being very embarrassed for
accidentally posting 'blast from past' to the
entire list I am VERY SORRY! This was obviously
NOT meant for the list.
I'll go dig a hole to hide in now.
jill
=====
What if the Hokey-Pokey is REALLY what it's all about?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 07:40:59 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
There are still lots of motor rebuilders in the world these days. In
Indianapolis there are two of 'em. It ain't cheap, but if your motor is
precious to you, well, it might be worth the investment. Shops here run
around $150 for a small (single phase low Horsepower motor) rebuild which
includes bearings, winding, armature refurbish, and if they like you, even
fresh paint. 12 volt equipment is something these folk face regularly if
infrequently.
Try one of these guys: not an endorsement but I've had them work on 120 AC
stuff with good results-
Horner Electric 317-639-4261
McBroom Electric 317-926-3451
You have to spend a bunch on rebuild before it's cost effective to replace
your whole furnace.
But if that fire box is compromised...well you know
Alex in Indiana
66 Safari & Overlander
#8728
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 08:06:37 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Old Suburban furnace motor
At 05:07 PM 12/20/01 -0800, David Josephson wrote:
>I've tried the usual places with no luck so far, wonder if the resources
>of the VAC list might come up with something. My '72 Tradewind came with
>an inoperative Suburban furnace, model N122A. The motor is toast --
>burned windings in the armature and rattly bearings. Is there any source
>for this motor?
I show this motor as being available from DTI. Following are the
notes for this model:
____________________________
IN 1967 THERE WERE A FEW FURNACES MADE THAT HAD A DIFFERENT DIVIDER
PLATE. THIS MOTOR WILL NOT WORK ON THOSE UNITS. THE DIVIDER PLATE
FOR THESE UNITS ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE THE DEALER CAN TRY TO DRILL
NEW HOLES BUT THERE IS NO GUARANTEE THAT THIS WILL WORK AND HE MAY
DAMAGE THE PLATE.
FITS NT22CD:NT22C:NT22A
TO REPLACE THIS MOTOR USE:
PE2416Q- MOTOR
70487 - GASKET
50588 - CROSSOVER TUBE
INSTRUCTION SHEET
__________________________________
The PE2416Q should be a fairly standard part number from someplace
that specializes in motors- it is a Redmond brand, but a quick web search
didn't turn up any info.
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:07:19 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Ed:
At 11:19 PM 12/20/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>I have been teaching truck driver safety for 15 years and drove over the
>road for 8. You do not want the trailer tires to skid before the tow
>vehicle, they loose traction and will chase you all over the road. DO NOT
>set the brake controller to come on before the tow vehicle it will cause
>you to jack-knife on slick roads. I also called my Driver Trainer
>Consultant and he agrees as well as the truck diver best buddy I have that
>also agrees with me...[snip]
Thanks, Ed...it's great to hear from an expert...I'm greatly
reassured that my ruminations weren't crazy after all. ;-)
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:21:33 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1964 Window problem
The windows on the 64 will not close properly when the operator is shot.
Replacing the operators with the nylon friction pads, will solve the problem.
Check with
inlandrv.com for availability. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 09:29:38 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '64 Overlander Windows
> Ted wrote:
>
> > I have the opportunity to purchase a 1964 Overlander, but there seems to
> > be a problem with the windows. Aside from the fact that many of the
> > cranks are missing or non-functional, the windows themselves refuse to
> > stay closed. With the windows cranked closed, you can still pull them
> > all the way open from the outside of the coach. I assume this isn't
> > supposed to happen. :)
>
> Kevin replied: Unlike some of the Brand X trailers of similar vintage, the windows
>on a '64
> Overlander have a separate latching mechanism that is not associated with
> the crank/lever mechanism. Depending upon the size of the window, there
> will be at least one and in most cases two latches found in the lower
> corners of the window opening.
Ted:
My 1964 A/S 19' Globetrotter does not have, and never
had, any locking mechanisms at the inside bottoms of the
side windows to lock them shut during travel. A prior owner
screwed small metal tabs on the outside of the body, just
below the forward bottom corner of each side window frame.
For travel, these tabs are pivoted upward on the screw to
catch the window frame and are screwed tight to keep the
window frame fast against the body. On arrival, one turn of
the screwdriver loosens them so they pivot down and away
from the window frame so the window can be opened from
inside with the mechanism.
Sounds like you mechanisms need to be replaced in any
event. But once replaced, adding these exterior metal tabs
in the absence of interior locking latches will keep the
windows tightly shut during travel.
Fred in Denver
1951 18' Clipper
1964 19' Globetrotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:15:50 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
> >Hello All,
> >I have been teaching truck driver safety for 15 years and drove over the
> >road for 8. You do not want the trailer tires to skid before the tow
> >vehicle, they loose traction and will chase you all over the road. DO NOT
> >set the brake controller to come on before the tow vehicle it will cause
> >you to jack-knife on slick roads. I also called my Driver Trainer
> >Consultant and he agrees as well as the truck diver best buddy I have
that
> >also agrees with me...[snip]
>
> Thanks, Ed...it's great to hear from an expert...I'm greatly
> reassured that my ruminations weren't crazy after all. ;-)
>
> - Dick
> (5368)
Looks like we're all forgetting something important....don't lock the brakes
up on ice, period! Whether the tow vehicle or the trailer brakes apply first
is not really material, just don't lock them up.
When the friction coefficient drops to zero, bad things are gonna happen.
Properly adjusted brakes and the use of the manual control on the controller
can get you out of some trouble. Stomping on the brake pedal will not.
Bob Hightower WBCCI 11365
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 14:14:30 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '64 Overlander Windows
Hi All,
Thanks Terry, RJ, Scott, and all of the folks who have replied off-list.
We certainly didn't notice any latches on the windows, and if there
were, they weren't as large as those that hold the screen door into the
main door. I would have noticed that. :) Perhaps there is a more subtle,
hidden type of latch used for the windows? Another thing that I find
odd, is that you could open the windows with the cranks, and they would
stay open, but when closed, you still push/pull them all the way open.
Unfortunately, the coach is currently 400 miles away, otherwise I would
take some pictures of the mechanism and post them. They do not look like
those on the Inland RV web site advertised for '65 and "lower" though.
Thanks,
Ted
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 17:39:59 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '64 Overlander Windows
Ted,
Perhaps you have windows like Fred has on his '64 Globetrotter, or perhaps
(since you don't own the trailer yet) you have been told the wrong year by
the seller. It certainly sounds to me like you have the Corning windows used
from '67 to '69. If you can get the trailer's serial number it will tell us
for sure as to it's year of origin. Or perhaps you just have a 'different'
one, Airstream is not known for their consistency of materials within a
model year.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 4:14 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: '64 Overlander Windows
> Hi All,
>
> Thanks Terry, RJ, Scott, and all of the folks who have replied off-list.
> We certainly didn't notice any latches on the windows, and if there
> were, they weren't as large as those that hold the screen door into the
> main door. I would have noticed that. :) Perhaps there is a more subtle,
> hidden type of latch used for the windows? Another thing that I find
> odd, is that you could open the windows with the cranks, and they would
> stay open, but when closed, you still push/pull them all the way open.
> Unfortunately, the coach is currently 400 miles away, otherwise I would
> take some pictures of the mechanism and post them. They do not look like
> those on the Inland RV web site advertised for '65 and "lower" though.
>
> Thanks,
> Ted
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 17:59:45 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
At 10:15 AM 12/21/2001 -0700, you wrote:
Bob:
You wrote:
>Looks like we're all forgetting something important....don't lock the brakes
>up on ice, period! Whether the tow vehicle or the trailer brakes apply first
>is not really material, just don't lock them up.
Obviously, very good advice. However, if life were that simple,
this thread would not have been started. There are many things that apply
forces to your tow vehicle and trailer that you have no control over, and
which, on ice, can break the trailer or tow vehicle from traction even if
you don't use any braking at all - wind, potholes, changes in the road
tilt, semis, etc.
As Scott has pointed out, he originally asked about how to handle
your rig when you unexpectedly find yourself on ice or snow. I expect most
on this list would not voluntarily tow under those conditions.
>When the friction coefficient drops to zero, bad things are gonna happen.
If it really dropped to zero, you would be lost no matter what,
and you would have a very hard time stopping.
>Properly adjusted brakes and the use of the manual control on the controller
>can get you out of some trouble. Stomping on the brake pedal will not.
Absolutely true, ice or no ice, in many situations. I doubt,
again, there are many on this list who would react by stomping on their
brakes, even on dry pavement. That could get you into trouble there, too.
IMHO, the rule might be stated: If you find yourself on ice/snow,
go slow, don't apply heavy braking, and if possible, get off the road at a
resting place and wait for the ice to go away. Your trailer will probably
have been set to apply trailer brakes first, so be extra careful when braking.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 15:35:22 -0800
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Hello Scott,
There has been some very good advise on driving on slippery roads,
.............. the best being to just stay off the road if at all possible.
However if one happens to for some reason get stuck out on the road and needs to
continue on until a safe haven can be attained I have some additional tips. I've
driven many thousands of miles in snow both solo and with trailer in tow. At
times the conditions were extreemly severe to say the least.
1) ....... Never make ANY sudden changes be it in turning, accelerating or
stopping. That truck driver that took several miles to slow down did the right
thing and he was very fortunate that he had the space to do so.
2) ....... Drive for the conditions which should be slowly. Leave more stopping
distance.
3) ....... When in very slippery conditions use only the trailer brakes. This
will help keep the rig from jack knifing. I've gone over mountain passes and was
the very last rig through because of severe conditions. It's been so slick that
one couldn't walk on the road for it being too slick. One time it was with a
short wheel base pickup towing a 35 foot Traveleze RV. I would only use the hand
activated controller brake for the trailer and stayed off the truck's brakes.
Before even letting up on the throttle at a low speed I'd carefully apply by
hand the trailer's brake to keep things moving straight.
4) ........ If you have an automatic transmission it helps to place it in
neutral when you need to slow down so you won't be having to over come the
engine torque while stopping. This helps greatly solo as well.
5) ....... Strong winds & ice with a trailer in tow is simply put, ............
DEADLY. Find the nearest off ramp and safely pull over and ride it out if at all
possible. One might want full propane tanks on the trailer to stay warm by the
heater.
I cringe when I think about a vintage Airstream being towed in severe
conditions. Even with a good driver there are a lot of "risk takers" out there
on the roads. They drive poorly even in good conditions on dry pavement. Then
there is the issue of, .............. gasp!!, ................. ROAD SALT !!
..................... If you ever have to tow your unit through salt conditions
please wash well, wheel wells & under belly included, as soon as possible.
Hope all of you have a terrific holiday season!
Pat
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> As the author of the original post, I whole heartedly agree with you Jim
> about not driving on ice...this is why I was asking about snow & slush!
> Driving solo on ice is foolhardy at best. No way I would take my Airstream
> on any road knowing that there was ice. I like my trailer the way it is
> thank you! And if while on the road conditions changed to ice, or even
> threatened to ice I would be one of the first ones to find a safe place to
> park! I was just looking for pointers on how to handle the rig in bad
> weather if I find myself in an unexpected winter storm when my wife and I go
> to visit parents in Florida over the Christmas break.
>
> Scott
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 15:59:51 -0800
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Ed,
I came upon your posting after I placed my post about winter driving. You obviously
have much experience in driving commercially and in teaching saftey courses.
My personal, and compared to your experiences, limited towing experiences I've had the
best results by staying off the truck's brakes and using only the trailer brakes when
on ice. I've never had even the slightest feeling of jack knifing. However I apply
Pat
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hello All,
> I have been teaching truck driver safety for 15 years and drove over the road for 8.
>You do not want the trailer tires to skid before the tow vehicle, they loose traction
>and will chase you all over the road. DO NOT set the brake controller to come on b
------------------------------
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