VACList-Digest Saturday, December 22, 2001 Issue 158
Today's Topics:
1. Re: '64 Overlander Windows
2. Re: winter towing
3. Full Timing Costs
4. Re: winter towing
5. Re: winter towing
6. ARGOSY, BEATRICE, AIRSTREAM
7. Re: winter towing
8. Re: ARGOSY, BEATRICE, AIRSTREAM
9. Re: '64 Overlander Windows
10. Re: winter towing
11. Re: Winter Towing
12. Re: Winter Towing
13. Re: winter towing
14. Re: ARGOSY, BEATRICE, AIRSTREAM
15. 12 volt 101
16. Re: winter towing
17. Re: winter towing
18. Re: Winter Towing
19. Re: 12 volt 101
20. Re: winter towing
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:57:06 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '64 Overlander Windows
Hi All,
If I'm beating this thread to death, please feel free to flog me. ;) I
suppose what I'm seeing here is an inconsistency in Airstream design. I
am certain that the coach is not a '66, '67, or '68 with the corning
windows, as aside from being curved, there are metal clips at the bottom
which pull the windows in at the bottom on those models. Also, there are
no frames on those models, just a hinge at the top. Beginning in '69
Airstream went to the 'modern' style of windows with the rounded corners
and the heavier frames. It is definitely a 1964, or earlier, as it has
the small door within the door that opens to reveal the screen door,
rather than a separate screen door. There are heavy latches on the
inside of the door that hold the 'screen door' in place. There are no
such latches on the windows, nor are there holes in the frames that
would indicate their prior existence. The windows are flat, they do have
frames, and it does say Hehr on the frames.
A picture is worth a thousand words, or so the saying goes,
unfortunately I don't have a picture, so I'll try to describe the
mechanism in less than a thousand words. :) There is a small, square
mechanism, in the upper right inside corner of each window. A single
crank extends from this square mechanism, on the inside of the coach.
Coming out of the side of the mechanism, there is a rod, about 1/2" in
diameter, that runs the length of the window at the top. Attached to
this rod, there are two arms, one on each side of the window that rotate
with the rod when the crank is turned. These arms slide in channels in
the window frame. I assume, since there are no latches, that the
windows are held in place by the crank mechanism. I just find it odd
that the cranks work to open the windows, and hold them open, but won't
hold them closed.
Unless the picture of the part on the Inland RV web site is wrong, these
are not the same mechanisms. So, do the mechanisms I have described
sound familiar to anyone? Are there suitable replacements? I have
multiple concerns with the windows, primarily, loss or damage during
travel, water leakage during wet weather, and burglary while the coach
is unattended.
Thanks again to everyone who has offered suggestions and provided advice
on this problem - I really appreciate your help. Also, I apologize for
my delay in responding, I receive the list in digest form so I only get
one BIG message a day, around 5:30pm Mountain time. :)
-Ted
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 20:58:29 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Hi Pat,
I think you hit it on the head when you said "I apply the trailer's brakes
very easily and they were in top condition." You don't lock them up and one
does not grab before the other. If the controler is adjusted they should not
lock down before the tow unit and should not be a problem. What I find is
trailer brakes on some trailers are not adjusted or in proper working
condition and that is more of the problem. I still trust my anti-skid tow
unit's brakes over my somewhat very vintage trailer brakes and system! Both
adjusted in harmony in the hand of a careful driver is a beautiful thing to
see on slippery roads!
On the other hand I agree with most on the list and use this often during
training; "if its that bad that you have to
worry............................ get off the road.
In the normal use of the Airstream (you define this), if you run into these
types of road conditions:
1. Get off the road and into a Walmart or Flying J
2. Set up the Dish
3. Mix a very strong drink(s)
4. Tune into ESPN ( or other as you see fit)
5. Relax YOUR RETIRED AND HAVE NO REAL PLACE TO GO TO ANYWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ed (if I don't have to I'm not going )
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Ewing" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 6:59 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: winter towing
> Ed,
>
> I came upon your posting after I placed my post about winter driving. You
obviously have much experience in driving commercially and in teaching
saftey courses.
>
> My personal, and compared to your experiences, limited towing experiences
I've had the best results by staying off the truck's brakes and using only
the trailer brakes when on ice. I've never had even the slightest feeling of
jack knifing. However I apply the trailer's brakes very easily and they were
in top condition. Maybe the trailer's wheels never locked up on me and I was
just lucky?
>
> Pat
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Hello All,
> > I have been teaching truck driver safety for 15 years and drove over the
road for 8. You do not want the trailer tires to skid before the tow
vehicle, they loose traction and will chase you all over the road. DO NOT
set the brake controller to come on before the tow vehicle it will cause you
to jack-knife on slick roads. I also called my Driver Trainer Consultant and
he agrees as well as the truck diver best buddy I have that also agrees with
me.
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 22:11:37 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Full Timing Costs
> 12/18/01 11:00:14, Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> As of January 2002, I'm confident it's possible to live a well traveled and
> luxurious RV Full Timer's lifestyle with an annual income of $12,000. It may
> be easier for some to do that than for others, but our experience shows it is
> very doable for most folks.
------------
>> on 12/18/01 8:04 PM, Lewis A. Lindner at
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> Terry Tyler, thank you so much for this little summary. I've followed your
>> postings with great interest for about three years now, and I just want you
>> to know how much I really do appreciate them -- especially the ones bearing
>> on fulltiming. I'm sure there are plenty of others on this list who feel
>> exactly the same. Please, keep them coming!
>>
>> Lew #4239
-----------
Lew - thanks for writing,
It's always good to hear from someone who has read what I've written.
Sometimes I'm hesitant to put a lot of detail into a summary as I did with
"full timing costs", but hindsight was too strong for me to resist writing.
Sandie and I thrive on the exhilarating freedom we feel when living the full
timer's lifestyle. We like experiencing a wide range of camping situations
where everything is not predictable and familiar. The challenge of figuring
out solutions on the fly is more likely to occur when we stay at what I
called OTHER TYPES of campgrounds in my last email.
Happy Holidays,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice." Henry Ford, Sr.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 23:02:32 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Hi All,
I've watched this thread for some time and observed all the contradictory
advice. At one time, I thought the big rig drivers were disabling the cab
brakes per information that the Virginia DMV was putting out. Having the
trailer brakes only prevented the rig from jackknife. Now I don't know if I
really understand what I thought I understood? :)
Anyway, a fellow up the street drives a big rig for a living and told me
that he never wants the trailer brakes to lock. He says it's the surest way
to have the trailer pass the puller. Gave me lots of time for thought.
So, how do you disable the trailer brake when the situation occurs? Be
ready to turn the gain to "0"? The Kelty-Hayes couldn't be disabled? Would
the ABS for the rear release the trailer brakes?
Which brings me to my 2002 puller with ABS on disk brakes all around. The
wheels will turn rather than lock up and slide, allow steering, etc.
Don't know about the past rationale for getting the puller into neutral to
prevent the pusher wheels from driving through the braking (locked front
wheels - power on the rear). Is the ABS smart enough to know that a wheel
is spinning too fast, or is it the limited slip differential that takes care
of the condition.
There's lots of discussion about snow and black ice; however, I understand
that the water on the Florida sun baked roads is just as bad?
Why does the vehicle always seem to speed up when the tires lose traction on
ice?
All these problems to resolve and I've not got my Safari on the road.
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 08:46:33 -0600
From: lefty frizzell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Joy, that's the key...he does not want the brakes to LOCK. My dad drove
a rig for 30 years...he used the jake brake, and the brake on the
trailer...he just never locked the brakes when he wanted to stop.
Lefty Frizzell
http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
****
I can only please one person per day.
Today is not your day.
Tomorrow is not looking good either.
****
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Mr. Joy H. Hansen
Sent: 21 December 01 22:03
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: winter towing
Hi All,
I've watched this thread for some time and observed all the
contradictory advice. At one time, I thought the big rig drivers were
disabling the cab brakes per information that the Virginia DMV was
putting out. Having the trailer brakes only prevented the rig from
jackknife. Now I don't know if I really understand what I thought I
understood? :)
Anyway, a fellow up the street drives a big rig for a living and told me
that he never wants the trailer brakes to lock. He says it's the surest
way to have the trailer pass the puller. Gave me lots of time for
thought.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 09:58:55 -0600
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: ARGOSY, BEATRICE, AIRSTREAM
If there is a historian out there I would be interested in a brief
discussion of the relationship of Argosy to Airstream and what people mean
when they refer to "Beatrice era trailers"
Thanks,
Dick
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 11:58:48 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Joy,
The absolute worst thing in my experience is wet ice, that usually
occurs when a rain turns to freezing rain. I remember driving the car to
my M-in-L's in Mass, one wintery night, crossing I-80 through PA. It was
a light rain, the temperature was dropping, and all of a sudden (or so
it seemed), cars and trucks were skidding all over the place. We went
from 65 MPH to 10 or 15 and it was dangerous at THAT speed. It took us
over an hour to go maybe 10 miles or thereabouts, at which time things
cleared up again. During that period, we saw MANY cars and semis off the
sides of the road.
Now, getting to the point (finally!):
1.This situation came up rather unexpectedly for us. After all, we were
in a nice, warm car, so had no idea what was REALLY going on outside.
2. There was no 'out', we were between exits and it's not really
possible to pull off otherwise.
3. There are in fact a few methods of having a bit of warning about
impending nasty conditions. One of those Weather Radios might be useful,
but I'm thinking of installing an Outside Air Temperature thermometer in
my truck. Not only would it be interesting to observe, it could save the
day in a situation like I describe above. When you're cruising along in
the rain, and you notice the temperature approaching freezing, it might
be time to consider stopping at the first exit and laying low for a
while.
I've not investigated OAT guages yet, but it seems like one could
install a Radio Shack Inside/Outside digital thermometer in the cab of
the truck and route the little pickup bulb outside someplace. Maybe
through the firewall to behind the grill, or under the truck alongside
the frame. (but well away from any heat source) We have such a
thermometer in the trailer, with the 'outside' bulb under the belly, and
find it fascinating to observe.
Most brake controllers have adjustments that allow you to back off on
the trailer braking. In your situation, with 4-wheel ABS, I'd want the
trailer braking minimized to avoid lockups. If you have a K-H hydraulic
controller tapped into the truck's system, it should in theory cause the
trailer brakes to pulsate with the truck's rear brakes. Mind you, it
will NOT pulse the trailer brakes just because those wheels are
skidding, as the ABS computer has no way of knowing about the trailer
wheels' speed.
My Warner hydraulic controller is tapped into the FRONT brakes of the
truck because that's where a previous owner had (apparently) tapped into
the system. I have rear-wheel-only ABS, so maybe he thought that was a
good idea, I don't know. The controller has no 'gain' adjustment, only
an 'agressiveness' knob. Twirling that will adjust how quickly the
trailer brakes activate in relation to the truck. If I run into a dicy
situation, I won't hesitate to readjust the controller, as it's very
easy to reset to 'normal'.
<<Jim>>
"Mr. Joy H. Hansen" wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've watched this thread for some time and observed all the contradictory
> advice. At one time, I thought the big rig drivers were disabling the cab
> brakes per information that the Virginia DMV was putting out. Having the
> trailer brakes only prevented the rig from jackknife. Now I don't know if I
> really understand what I thought I understood? :)
>
> Anyway, a fellow up the street drives a big rig for a living and told me
> that he never wants the trailer brakes to lock. He says it's the surest way
> to have the trailer pass the puller. Gave me lots of time for thought.
>
> So, how do you disable the trailer brake when the situation occurs? Be
> ready to turn the gain to "0"? The Kelty-Hayes couldn't be disabled? Would
> the ABS for the rear release the trailer brakes?
>
> Which brings me to my 2002 puller with ABS on disk brakes all around. The
> wheels will turn rather than lock up and slide, allow steering, etc.
>
> Don't know about the past rationale for getting the puller into neutral to
> prevent the pusher wheels from driving through the braking (locked front
> wheels - power on the rear). Is the ABS smart enough to know that a wheel
> is spinning too fast, or is it the limited slip differential that takes care
> of the condition.
>
> There's lots of discussion about snow and black ice; however, I understand
> that the water on the Florida sun baked roads is just as bad?
>
> Why does the vehicle always seem to speed up when the tires lose traction on
> ice?
>
> All these problems to resolve and I've not got my Safari on the road.
>
> '69 Safari, Joy
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:00:10 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ARGOSY, BEATRICE, AIRSTREAM
Dick,
Have you checked the archives at http://www.tompatterson.com? He has an
excellent Search function that looks at past posts from this discussion
group.
<<Jim>>
Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
>
> If there is a historian out there I would be interested in a brief
> discussion of the relationship of Argosy to Airstream and what people mean
> when they refer to "Beatrice era trailers"
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dick
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 09:25:23 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '64 Overlander Windows
OK, I'm stumped. Don't think I've ever seen that type of mechanism in an
Airstream - in houses, yes. I think Fred Coldwell said he has something
similar in his '64 Globetrotter, but I went back and reviewed the photo
archives to see if I could find anything like that. The '64 GT I have there
has the conventional openers and bottom hook latches:
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/archives/64GT/64GT.html
Anyone else out there have this type of mechanism? Need a picture of it.
Something new to learn! You got my attention now...
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:57:06 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: '64 Overlander Windows
> A picture is worth a thousand words, or so the saying goes,
> unfortunately I don't have a picture, so I'll try to describe the
> mechanism in less than a thousand words. :) There is a small, square
> mechanism, in the upper right inside corner of each window. A single
> crank extends from this square mechanism, on the inside of the coach.
> Coming out of the side of the mechanism, there is a rod, about 1/2" in
> diameter, that runs the length of the window at the top. Attached to
> this rod, there are two arms, one on each side of the window that rotate
> with the rod when the crank is turned. These arms slide in channels in
> the window frame. I assume, since there are no latches, that the
> windows are held in place by the crank mechanism. I just find it odd
> that the cranks work to open the windows, and hold them open, but won't
> hold them closed.
> -Ted
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 11:46:01 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
There are a few car radios with full weather band coverage (7 channels
are now in use all over the USA, a three channel weather radio doesn't
cut it). So far only factory radios in certain Cadillacs and one
imported Subaru SUV cover all 7 channels. There are a couple marine
radios from Pioneer that cover 3 weather channels. They should be
redesigned. My 2m ham radio has all 7 channels programmed and I listen
to Igor a lot while driving with Airstream in tow. In my experience,
sometimes the NWS offices are a bit alarmist forecasting the worst
possible conditions they can envision. And then being blind to the real
conditions from depending too much on somewhat faulty automated weather
observing stations. Last week the local AWOS reported mist instead of
the pea soup fog that was actually here. Part of their problem is a dew
point sensor that is excessively temperature sensitive. That leads to
wild diurnal changes in reported dewpoint even with no air motion, and
much larger variations than the old manned weather observation sites.
However faulty the NWS observations and Igor are, they are a great deal
more informative than nearly all broadcast radio stations that are
interested mostly in their local town than the countryside.
About 20 years ago I bought a little indoor/outdoor digital thermometer
from Edmund Scientific. Actually I bought two, and use them up fairly
rapidly. I ran the remote wire along the edge of the hood of my VW
pickup and put the probe at the leading edge of the hood side opening.
It was interesting while it worked, showed definite stratification of
temperature in valleys, and on a near calm night, I could detect heat
movement from cities, and heat from the car in front of me.
Unfortunately the working life was only a few months. I wasn't able to
fix them, I suspect that since they used bare silicon chips covered in a
tar blob that humidity did them in.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:18:56 -0500
From: soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Winter Towing
Ok, I can't resist contributing my $0.02 worth to this thread. My
comments are based on 40 years of driving in snow and ice for 4-5 months
per year. I've noticed that I get in trouble when the rear end of my
vehicle decides that it wants to pass the front. This happens during
braking on slippery roads if the front wheels have better traction than
the rear, and would also apply to trailer wheels, since they are even
further back.
For example, I use studded snow tires on my front-wheel drive vehicles.
The studs contribute absoultely nothing to traction except on ice, and
then they are the only devices, short of chanis, that will help. I have
had many experiences driving on ice and wet ice when the only thing that
saved me was the studs. If you use studded tires then you know that
most tire stores strongly recommend using studs on all 4 tires, even for
those with front wheel drive. This is for the very valid reason that if
you have studs on the front and not on the rear, the front will have
better traction when braking on ice, so the rear will decelerate less
quickly and put you into a spin. The corrective action is to remove
your foot from the brake and put it on the gas pedal.
Getting back to the topic of towing in snow and ice, you want to be sure
that your tow vehicle doesn't decelerate a lot faster than the trailer
in slippery conditions. If it does, the inertia of the trailer will try
to push the tow vehicle out of its way and you will learn more than you
ever wanted to know about jackniving. As others have pointed out, the
rules of survival are: 1.) Stay off the road if you possibly can, 2.) If
you must drive, keep the speed way down, 3.) Give yourself plenty of
distance to the vehicle in front of you (at least 2-3 vehicle lengths
per 10 miles per hour) 4.) Use the brakes very sparingly, 5.) Test
braking by using the manual control on the trailer brakes and 6.) Use
your gas pedal to straighten yourself out if you start to slide.
On a related, but slightly different topic, how many of you who live in
the snow belt have noticed that 90% of the vehicles that end up off the
road are SUV's and other 4 wheel drive vehicles? It seems that a lot of
people haven't learned that 4 wheel drive vehicles have no better
braking in snow and ice than their 2 wheel drive cousins. I cringe
when I'm driving at 40-50 in the right lane during a blinding snowstorm
and I'm passed by a hulking SUV doing 70 in the left lane. I just hope
that I'm not close by when the driver loses it.
Lincoln Soule
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:19:28 -0500
From: soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Winter Towing
Ok, I can't resist contributing my $0.02 worth to this thread. My
comments are based on 40 years of driving in snow and ice for 4-5 months
per year. I've noticed that I get in trouble when the rear end of my
vehicle decides that it wants to pass the front. This happens during
braking on slippery roads if the front wheels have better traction than
the rear, and would also apply to trailer wheels, since they are even
further back.
For example, I use studded snow tires on my front-wheel drive vehicles.
The studs contribute absolutely nothing to traction except on ice, and
then they are the only devices, short of chains, that will help. I have
had many experiences driving on ice and wet ice when the only thing that
saved me was the studs. If you use studded tires then you know that
most tire stores strongly recommend using studs on all 4 tires, even for
those with front wheel drive. This is for the very valid reason that if
you have studs on the front and not on the rear, the front will have
better traction when braking on ice, so the rear will decelerate less
quickly and put you into a spin. The corrective action is to remove
your foot from the brake and put it on the gas pedal.
Getting back to the topic of towing in snow and ice, you want to be sure
that your tow vehicle doesn't decelerate a lot faster than the trailer
in slippery conditions. If it does, the inertia of the trailer will try
to push the tow vehicle out of its way and you will learn more than you
ever wanted to know about jackknifing. As others have pointed out, the
rules of survival are: 1.) Stay off the road if you possibly can, 2.) If
you must drive, keep the speed way down, 3.) Give yourself plenty of
distance to the vehicle in front of you (at least 2-3 vehicle lengths
per 10 miles per hour) 4.) Use the brakes very sparingly, 5.) Test
braking by using the manual control on the trailer brakes and 6.) Use
your gas pedal to straighten yourself out if you start to slide.
On a related, but slightly different topic, how many of you who live in
the snow belt have noticed that 90% of the vehicles that end up off the
road are SUV's and other 4 wheel drive vehicles? It seems that a lot of
people haven't learned that 4 wheel drive vehicles have no better
braking in snow and ice than their 2 wheel drive cousins. I cringe
when I'm driving at 40-50 in the right lane during a blinding snowstorm
and I'm passed by a hulking SUV doing 70 in the left lane. I just hope
that I'm not close by when the driver loses it.
Lincoln Soule
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:43:11 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Gerald,
Many of us have a CB radio in our tow vehicle, and Radio Shack has
several such outfits with Weather Radio receiving capability. The
catalog says that those "receive all 7 channels"; one radio even sports
a compass. If you're going to install a CB anyway, it might be a good
idea to look at one of those units.
While typing this, I perused the new 2002 Radio Shack catalog, looking
at P317 for Weather Radios. One looks especially attractive for use in a
trailer *if you have power available*: it has an Indoor/Outdoor
thermometer builtin, with the Outdoor sensor requiring "no wires to
run". They also have several battery-operated Weather Radios on that
page.
I wouldn't be surprised to find AM/FM car stereos available with Weather
Channel capability, although Radio Shack doesn't seem to carry such a
critter. If you're considering an updated radio for your tow vehicle, it
might be wise to check Best Buy, Circuit City, et. al. to see if such
outfits exist. Radio Shack does have home-type AM/FM radios with W.C.
pickup, including one that sets itself from the Atomic Clock. (might not
work inside a metal A/S trailer!)
I had a Radio Shack I/O thermometer in the trailer for over a year and
at least 12,000 miles of towing, and it worked well. Changed it out
recently for a unit that has both Inside and Outside displays
simultaneously, no switching required. It also has Min and Max memories,
so you can see how cold it got last night and how warm the trailer got
during a hot day.
The little bulb seems to be well-sealed, but the environment in a tow
vehicle would be a bit tougher than the trailer. The good thing is
they're cheap enough (sometimes on sale for as little as 10 bucks) that
you haven't lost much if they do fail. The wire with the Outside sensor
is about 6' long, which might not be enough to route from the dash,
through the firewall, and outside. I suppose if you were careful to
observe polarity and remove the battery before starting, you could
splice in an extension.
This is looking more and more like a "gotta have" gadget. <<grin>>
<<Jim>>
"Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:
>
> There are a few car radios with full weather band coverage (7 channels
> are now in use all over the USA, a three channel weather radio doesn't
> cut it). So far only factory radios in certain Cadillacs and one
> imported Subaru SUV cover all 7 channels. There are a couple marine
> radios from Pioneer that cover 3 weather channels. They should be
> redesigned. My 2m ham radio has all 7 channels programmed and I listen
> to Igor a lot while driving with Airstream in tow. In my experience,
> sometimes the NWS offices are a bit alarmist forecasting the worst
> possible conditions they can envision. And then being blind to the real
> conditions from depending too much on somewhat faulty automated weather
> observing stations. Last week the local AWOS reported mist instead of
> the pea soup fog that was actually here. Part of their problem is a dew
> point sensor that is excessively temperature sensitive. That leads to
> wild diurnal changes in reported dewpoint even with no air motion, and
> much larger variations than the old manned weather observation sites.
>
> However faulty the NWS observations and Igor are, they are a great deal
> more informative than nearly all broadcast radio stations that are
> interested mostly in their local town than the countryside.
>
> About 20 years ago I bought a little indoor/outdoor digital thermometer
> from Edmund Scientific. Actually I bought two, and use them up fairly
> rapidly. I ran the remote wire along the edge of the hood of my VW
> pickup and put the probe at the leading edge of the hood side opening.
> It was interesting while it worked, showed definite stratification of
> temperature in valleys, and on a near calm night, I could detect heat
> movement from cities, and heat from the car in front of me.
> Unfortunately the working life was only a few months. I wasn't able to
> fix them, I suspect that since they used bare silicon chips covered in a
> tar blob that humidity did them in.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
> permission only.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:20:43 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ARGOSY, BEATRICE, AIRSTREAM
The quick and dirty is this.
The Argosy was built from approximately 1972-87. It was built as a
test/economy unit in a separate facility. The first version was in the classic
Airstream shape with several experimental variations. The Argosy had one piece
steel front and rear top end caps. It also had the 30" wide front windows that
did not appear in the Airstream until 1979.
In it's second version that appeared in 1986 in was a metal skinned square
shaped coach. This was the prototype for the infamous squarestreams of
1988-89. It gave them the experience to built composite wall units that became
the Airstream Landyacht series that started in 1991 and continues to this day.
Beatrice Foods in the diversifying climate of the late '60's bought Airstream
in July 1969. They sold Airstream to a group of industry executives under the
name of Thor Industries in July 1979 which owns Airstream to this day. Thor
offices are just down the street from Airstream in Jackson Center.
Much is said about the time Beatrice owned Airstream both good and bad. The
good include the illustrated service manuals and similar production
documentation. They often get the blame for the engineering that brought on
the "rear end droop" problem. They also often get the blame for the first
major style change in 1969. The service bulletins indicate the problems had
started prior to Beatrice foods. Beatrice did not take over the company until
after the newly styled 69 was introduced.
Charlie
Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
> If there is a historian out there I would be interested in a brief
> discussion of the relationship of Argosy to Airstream and what people mean
> when they refer to "Beatrice era trailers"
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dick
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 16:00:30 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 12 volt 101
Just to clear something up in my mind, the 12 volt lights receive "+" power
direct from the battery/converter and the "-" wire is simply grounded to the
frame. How is the connection loop completed? Is the "-" battery/converter
cable simply attached to the frame at the battery box or where the converter
is located. I think that is the way it works in a car, but I didn't know for
sure about the A/S.
Many thanks in advance to the VAC knowledge base.
Merry Christmas and Happy new Years
from
Don and Pat Hardman
1976 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 16:51:48 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
I have a bias against CB and Radio Shack from long ago. I've had a ham
license since before either existed and Tandy began to acquire and
destroy good radio and audio stores.
The CB with weather would be one way to get weather in the tow vehicle.
I'm wishing it was more available in the AM/FM radio. So far other than
the Cadillac and Suburu radios, I've not found any that covered more
than three weather channels. RS had one with CD last year (but at the
moment I prefer cassette, having a large number of cassettes and very
few CDs). Pioneer has the marine radios, one cassette and one CD but
only three weather channels.
I've not found the battery operated weather radios with built in antenna
to be very effective if not in the same county as the transmitter. But
that's old experience. I've not tried a new one recently.
Last time I asked at Worst Buy about a truck radio with weather band, I
might have well just asked for a left handed frimmer hammel... The idea
was foreign to their staff. Had I wanted a 1 KW mobile audio amplifier,
they had that, but would depend on it to blow snow away rather than
learning (about weather). Circuit City doesn't believe in this part of
the world so I'm not a regular visitor to their stores. Crutchfield has
no radios with weather and they have a wider selection than any retail
store I've ever seen. They do have radios for satellite use.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 16:22:58 -0700
From: "Sherry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
My CB radio has the weather channels (only 3, it's kind of old) and I've
made some very good use of it. My hand held CB also gets the weather
channel, and I'll never forget one night in Tennessee with about 30 people
huddled around in a rest center trying to figure out what county we were in
so we could tell whether or not the tornado was actually going to hit us!
(No tornado, but winds of about 80 mph.) I also have an indoor/outdoor
thermometer in the trailer. Mine has the time and shows minimum and maximum
temperatures and the small readout is velcroed on the wall right above the
pillow on my bed. This is how I decide when (or if) I should get up when I'm
on the road.
I also just signed up for a service through www.weather.com that sends a
message to my cell phone when there are severe weather alerts. It's free
except for any charges you may have from your cellular provider. I don't
exactly know how it works yet because there haven't been any alerts where I
am since I signed up for it!
Happy Trails - Sherry (who wishes you all a Happy Holiday season and BE
CAREFUL out there!)
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 15:59:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Doug Rowbottom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Winter Towing
Lincoln
Up here in Canada we see a lot of snow, some years,and
I have pulled my safari through drifts and on ice.
I think that the truck snow tires I have on the
trailer helps keep it stuck to the road. I have never
had it try to pass me and don't look forward to it.
The trick is to slow way down and pass all the people
in the ditches.
I also keep the water tank full for weight on the
hitch and then use it to wash the salt off when we get
far enough south.
Doug
--- soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ok, I can't resist contributing my $0.02 worth to
> this thread. My
> comments are based on 40 years of driving in snow
> and ice for 4-5 months
> per year. I've noticed that I get in trouble when
> the rear end of my
> vehicle decides that it wants to pass the front.
> This happens during
> braking on slippery roads if the front wheels have
> better traction than
> the rear, and would also apply to trailer wheels,
> since they are even
> further back.
>
> For example, I use studded snow tires on my
> front-wheel drive vehicles.
> The studs contribute absoultely nothing to traction
> except on ice, and
> then they are the only devices, short of chanis,
> that will help. I have
> had many experiences driving on ice and wet ice when
> the only thing that
> saved me was the studs. If you use studded tires
> then you know that
> most tire stores strongly recommend using studs on
> all 4 tires, even for
> those with front wheel drive. This is for the very
> valid reason that if
> you have studs on the front and not on the rear, the
> front will have
> better traction when braking on ice, so the rear
> will decelerate less
> quickly and put you into a spin. The corrective
> action is to remove
> your foot from the brake and put it on the gas
> pedal.
>
> Getting back to the topic of towing in snow and ice,
> you want to be sure
> that your tow vehicle doesn't decelerate a lot
> faster than the trailer
> in slippery conditions. If it does, the inertia of
> the trailer will try
> to push the tow vehicle out of its way and you will
> learn more than you
> ever wanted to know about jackniving. As others
> have pointed out, the
> rules of survival are: 1.) Stay off the road if you
> possibly can, 2.) If
> you must drive, keep the speed way down, 3.) Give
> yourself plenty of
> distance to the vehicle in front of you (at least
> 2-3 vehicle lengths
> per 10 miles per hour) 4.) Use the brakes very
> sparingly, 5.) Test
> braking by using the manual control on the trailer
> brakes and 6.) Use
> your gas pedal to straighten yourself out if you
> start to slide.
>
> On a related, but slightly different topic, how many
> of you who live in
> the snow belt have noticed that 90% of the vehicles
> that end up off the
> road are SUV's and other 4 wheel drive vehicles? It
> seems that a lot of
> people haven't learned that 4 wheel drive vehicles
> have no better
> braking in snow and ice than their 2 wheel drive
> cousins. I cringe
> when I'm driving at 40-50 in the right lane during a
> blinding snowstorm
> and I'm passed by a hulking SUV doing 70 in the left
> lane. I just hope
> that I'm not close by when the driver loses it.
>
> Lincoln Soule
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
__________________________________________________
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Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 19:03:38 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 12 volt 101
Don,
The 12 volt clearance lights are grounded to the body, but the ones
inside the coach (at least in our 1968) have/had a white/ground wire run
to each light. Although I don't remember ever seeing the ground wire
between battery and converter, it must have existed someplace.
<<Jim>>
Don Hardman wrote:
>
> Just to clear something up in my mind, the 12 volt lights receive "+" power
> direct from the battery/converter and the "-" wire is simply grounded to the
> frame. How is the connection loop completed? Is the "-" battery/converter
> cable simply attached to the frame at the battery box or where the converter
> is located. I think that is the way it works in a car, but I didn't know for
> sure about the A/S.
>
> Many thanks in advance to the VAC knowledge base.
>
> Merry Christmas and Happy new Years
>
> from
>
> Don and Pat Hardman
> 1976 Sovereign
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 16:06:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Doug Rowbottom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: winter towing
Jim
I just installed a new Cobra 29 WX NW ST, Cb radio. It
has 7 weather channels and will turn itself on if
there is a weather warning or cut in on any channel if
being used.
I haven't had it long enough to see it work but sounds
impressive.
The 30 year old Radio Shack CB just gave out.
Doug
--- Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Gerald,
> Many of us have a CB radio in our tow vehicle, and
> Radio Shack has
> several such outfits with Weather Radio receiving
> capability. The
> catalog says that those "receive all 7 channels";
> one radio even sports
> a compass. If you're going to install a CB anyway,
> it might be a good
> idea to look at one of those units.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
------------------------------
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