VACList-Digest Tuesday, December 18, 2001 Issue 154
Today's Topics:
1. Explain Cleco Clamps
2. Re: Manual for '66 Caravel
3. Re: Pigtail wiring problem on 68 Overlander
4. Electrical Safety
5. Walters of Wabash
6. Re: Feedback on Ford E150 Tow Vehicle
7. Mystic Springs
8. Rims split and otherwise
9. Re: Rims split and otherwise
10. Re: Rims split and otherwise
11. Exhaust brake question
12. Re: Walters of Wabash
13. Re: Rims split and otherwise
14. Re: Exhaust brake question
15. Re: Walters of Wabash
16. Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
17. Re: Shocks for Tow Vehicle
18. Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
19. Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
20. Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
21. Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
22. Re: BuzzHacker
23. Door Locks
24. Re: Door Locks
25. Re: Door Locks
26. Re: Door Locks
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 19:43:18 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leggett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Explain Cleco Clamps
Awhile back RJ mentioned using a boatload of Cleco
clamps when refurbishing a belly pan.
Can someone explain the sizing and the various styles
of Cleco clamps available? What kind of tool do you
need to use them most effectively? What should I be
shopping for if re-doing a belly pan or other sheet
metal on an Airstream? And are the used ones
advertised on some web sites worth messing with?
John Leggett
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 22:59:42 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Manual for '66 Caravel
Dear Kathy,
You can contact Secretarial Services 937-492-8885 for a copy of the manual
you are looking for. There is no service manual to our knowlege. Good luck.
Stuart and Bonnie.
* STUART MACARTHUR RESOR * ARCHITECT * 1268 BLUE SKY DRIVE * CARDIFF BY THE
SEA * CALIFORNIA * 92007-1005 * 760-753-8022 * FAX: 760-753-8058 *
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 23:15:15 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Pigtail wiring problem on 68 Overlander
I was having a ground problem like I thought and did realize eventually that
Blue is the Batt/charge wire on the trailer. Thanks for the reply.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 07:28:23 -0500
From: "john or cindy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Electrical Safety
Hello Airstreamers
I just read about 12 volt dc testing of live circuits. I'm mechanic, I
agree with the advice to use a fused jumper. I ALWAYS use jumper wires with
an in line fuse. This is an easy thing to make, go to Radio shack or the
auto parts store & buy the cheap jumper wires with the clips on each end.
Also buy a FLAT type "inline fuse" & some crimp butt connectors form the
same place. Cut the jumper near one of the clips & install the inline fuse
with crimp butt joints or solder joints with shrink wrap insulation. The
modern flat fuses will accept "self resetting" circuit breakers for those
that don't want to keep replacing fuses. The neat thing about a fuse
protected jumper wire is you can choose the size fuse for each job , (don't
just put a big fuse in the jumper to save replacing it). Also remember that
you are working on vintage circuits without computers. If you try to use
this on your newer tow vehicle, you stand a chance of hurting some modern
electronic system resulting in a big repair bill. The new computer systems
can be hurt by something as benign as a good old fashioned 12v test lamp if
testing a venerable system. There are new test lamps (high impedance) that
are safe for automotive computers, mine even tells me of polarity .
John Young
"If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy"
(R. Green)
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 07:49:07 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Walters of Wabash
Hey folks
Does anybody know if "Walters of Wabash" still exists? I sure can't find 'em.
I am rebuilding a Gaucho from scratch and thinking about slides. I have some
originals to use as a pattern, and a pal with a nice router table, if Walters
is kaput. I thought I read here about a year ago that they were still
around. Any Contact Info?
Much Thanks in Advance! & Happy Holidays!!
Splintered in Indiana
Alex Kensington
66 Safari & Overlander
# 8728
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 11:19:53 -0600
From: "D. Reilly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Feedback on Ford E150 Tow Vehicle
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hi Jeff,
Just be sure that it has a large engine. 351 equivalent, NOT a 302. =
You would do better to get a 3/4 or 1 ton van. Conversion vans are =
relatively heavy. You need enough power to pull a load of people, the =
van and the trailer.
I had a F-150 pick up with a 302 V8. It was totally inadequate for a =
1963 Overlander (26 ft). I now have a long wheelbase, 3/4 ton Chevy =
with a 350 V8 and it tows great but would really like more power still.
Ford 150's are set up to ride like cars. When you go to a larger truck, =
you get heavier springs, larger brakes, bigger tires (16") more cooling =
for the engine and radiator and a heavy duty drive train.
You won't go wrong with something bigger.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Jeff Griffin=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: [VAC] Feedback on Ford E150 Tow Vehicle
Hello list members
I'm pondering the purchase of a 8-cylinder E150 conversion van to tow =
my 17' Caravel. Does anyone have personal experience with this rig? Any =
known mechanical problems with the van related to towing.=20
Jeff
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Jeff,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Just be sure that it has a large =
engine. 351=20
equivalent, NOT a 302. You would do better to get a 3/4 or 1 ton=20
van. Conversion vans are relatively heavy. You need enough =
power to=20
pull a load of people, the van and the trailer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I had a F-150 pick up with a 302 =
V8. It was=20
totally inadequate for a 1963 Overlander (26 ft). I now have a =
long=20
wheelbase, 3/4 ton Chevy with a 350 V8 and it tows great but would =
really like=20
more power still.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ford 150's are set up to ride like =
cars. When=20
you go to a larger truck, you get heavier springs, larger brakes, bigger =
tires=20
(16") more cooling for the engine and radiator and a heavy duty =
drive=20
train.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>You won't go wrong with something=20
bigger.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Jeff=20
Griffin</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, December 14, 2001 =
9:33=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Feedback on Ford =
E150 Tow=20
Vehicle</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<P>Hello list members</P>
<P>I'm pondering the purchase of a 8-cylinder E150 conversion van to =
tow my=20
17' Caravel. Does anyone have personal experience with this rig? Any =
known=20
mechanical problems with the van related to towing. </P>
<P>Jeff</P></DIV><BR clear=3Dall>
<HR>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <A=20
href=3D"http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag2_etl_EN.asp";>Click Here</A><BR>To=20
unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to=20
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html When replying to a =
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please delete all unnecessary original text =
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------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 16:49:51 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Mystic Springs
Hi Alex in Indiana,
If you go to Florida, why don't you plan on spending a few days at the
Mystic Springs Campground near Pensacola?
Specifically, schedule your visit before, during and after the third weekend
when their monthly rally occurs.
Sandie and I have stayed with them several times over the last 10 years and
each has been a delightful experience. There's a phone jack in the
recreation hall, too.
The campground host has a phone at their Airstream. If you get lost, call
and ask for suggestions.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
==========================
on 12/10/01 8:49 PM, H Spies at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Check out Mystic Springs Campground. It too is an Airstream only CG and is
> owned
> by the members of the Pensacola Fl WBCCI unit. Its about 30 miles north of
> Pensacola near the Alabama border and is on a river.
>
> http://geocities.com/mystic-springs/Park1.html
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> ...
>> While I'm at it, what are some other well known "Airstream Land Yacht
>> Harbors" ?
>> I'm looking more for names and contact info. Rates and services I'll find out
>> later.
>>
>> Thanks in Advance
>>
>> Alex In Indiana
>> 66 Safari & Overlander
>> #8728
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>
>> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:30:17 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Rims split and otherwise
Hello Folks! -
I think I need some instruction concerning nomenclature covering wheels.
Especially Original Airstream Equipment.
I think I need to learn about "Split Rims"
When I think of Split Rims, I think of commercial truck sized wheels that
used to be the subject of 60 Minutes type of reports revealing the horrors
and death tire dealers faced when trying to service them. Retaining springs
which flew off decapitating the feckless workers doomed to such employments.
Of these I am aware and wary of.
But what About Split Rims on Airstreams? Are these a similar creature? I have
had some wheels called "split rims" which are the 15" originals issued with
the trailer. They seem to be of a two piece riveted-together construction.
Does this make them Split? Are they unwise to use? While they have clips to
hold on hubcaps (or are they wheel covers??), they have no retaining spring
of death on them... I am a bit puzzled... Certainly nothing new...
They balance easily, are rust free, quite solid and hold the "Inverted Baby
Moons" I like so well. What in the world is the best terminology to use to
get some more vintage wheels, or safer replacements if that's the best Idea?
Thanks in advance
Happy Holidays folks!
Tired in Indiana
Alex Kensington
66 Safari & Overlander
#8728
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:01:35 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rims split and otherwise
Some of the smaller split rims actually split near the center of the
rim, didn't have the retaining springs. They were more obnoxious about
coming apart because their joint was harder to see that it wasn't
properly latched before inflating the tire.
Even the riveted rims if essentially one piece won't hold air for a
tubeless tire.
In looking for modern rims one needs to keep in mind the load handling
capability, diameter, width, bolt circle (and number of bolts), center
hole diameter, and the offset of the rim. Airstreams tend to leave
little room for fatter tires or any significant change in offset. Offset
is the distance the mounting plane is from the center of the rim.
Sometimes even tire that are supposedly the exact replacement size for
vintage sizes won't fit in the wheel well. That can be very dependent on
the tire maker.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:12:02 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rims split and otherwise
Alex,
Have a look at the wheels on my forklift:
http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/airstream/may27_06.jpg
and:
http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/airstream/may27_07.jpg
That's what split rims look like. And, you're right, they can be man
killers; I knew a fella who was killed by a truck rim while inflating
it. They're safe enough once inflated, but can be VERY deadly when
you're first airing them up. I do the wheels on my forklift myself, as
it's about impossible to find someone who will work on them.
Fortunately, I had a guy show me a couple of the tricks long ago, and I
use a remote inflation setup so I don't need to stand real close while
airing them up.
No, I won't tell you the tricks, don't ask. :-)
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Hello Folks! -
>
> I think I need some instruction concerning nomenclature covering wheels.
>
> Especially Original Airstream Equipment.
>
> I think I need to learn about "Split Rims"
>
> When I think of Split Rims, I think of commercial truck sized wheels that
>
> used to be the subject of 60 Minutes type of reports revealing the horrors
>
> and death tire dealers faced when trying to service them. Retaining springs
>
> which flew off decapitating the feckless workers doomed to such employments.
>
> Of these I am aware and wary of.
>
> But what About Split Rims on Airstreams? Are these a similar creature? I have
>
> had some wheels called "split rims" which are the 15" originals issued with
>
> the trailer. They seem to be of a two piece riveted-together construction.
>
> Does this make them Split? Are they unwise to use? While they have clips to
>
> hold on hubcaps (or are they wheel covers??), they have no retaining spring
>
> of death on them... I am a bit puzzled... Certainly nothing new...
>
> They balance easily, are rust free, quite solid and hold the "Inverted Baby
>
> Moons" I like so well. What in the world is the best terminology to use to
>
> get some more vintage wheels, or safer replacements if that's the best Idea?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Happy Holidays folks!
>
> Tired in Indiana
>
> Alex Kensington
>
> 66 Safari & Overlander
>
> #8728
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 19:21:46 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Exhaust brake question
Hi all,
I just couldn't resist those 0% commercials, and now have a 2002 Ford F-250
SD with the PowerStroke diesel. Now we're just waiting for things to warm
up so we can start on the long trip to the East Coast and back.
But....I'm curious about exhaust brakes. I've read that some of you have
the BD system, and some have another. I don't even want to talk about
Jacobs...way too noisy.
Who prefers what? and why? I'm unashamedly soliciting some input to help me
decide, since I know nothing about these critters. If you think the
information is of general interest, answers on the List are OK (subject to
the approval of the Bosses, :-) ), otherwise, direct replies are fine too.
TIA, Roger.
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250-SD PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:27:11 -0500
From: "Nick Novia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Walters of Wabash
B.Walter & Co
P.O. Box 278
Wabash, IN 46992
Nick Novia Ct
'68 safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
Bluegrasser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 7:49 AM
Subject: [VAC] Walters of Wabash
> Hey folks
> Does anybody know if "Walters of Wabash" still exists? I sure can't find
'em.
> I am rebuilding a Gaucho from scratch and thinking about slides. I have
some
> originals to use as a pattern, and a pal with a nice router table, if
Walters
> is kaput. I thought I read here about a year ago that they were still
> around. Any Contact Info?
>
> Much Thanks in Advance! & Happy Holidays!!
>
> Splintered in Indiana
> Alex Kensington
> 66 Safari & Overlander
> # 8728
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:51:54 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rims split and otherwise
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--------------685326F38BC
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Here's pictures from my '65 Ford truck shop manual. None of the two
piece rims on the truck match either of these. Notice this two piece
splits near the middle of the rim.
Gerald J.
--
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--------------685326F38BC--
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:42:16 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Exhaust brake question
Boy Roger, you hit home with that question. I wanted one so bad I could
taste it on my 99 F250 SD diesel. I have had it over two years and have
dumped so much money in it I cringe at the thought of how many Airstreams I
could have bought. My truck is just the way I want it now but it does not
have an exhaust brake for one simple reason, it doesn't need one! Let me
say this, I over-engineer just about everything I make, buy or repair, and I
hate that I sometimes can't resist that, but your brakes on that new truck
along with the trailer brakes will allow you to descend any mountain or stop
on a dime. I have yet to wear my pads out after 50K miles. On the other
hand, if you want one, get up with www.ford-diesel.com and you can spend
hours reading the archives on exhaust brakes. For those that already have
one, I can relate and understand some of the plus of it, but dollar for
dollar, they are not good for the truck, or Ford would be offering it as an
option. Just my opinion, but they sure sound cool!
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 06:56:12 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Walters of Wabash
Their website is:
http://www.bwalter.com/wood_division.htm
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 7:49 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Walters of Wabash
>
> Hey folks
> Does anybody know if "Walters of Wabash" still exists? I
> sure can't find 'em.
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 07:08:35 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
Go to :
http://www.yardstore.com/tools.htm
to see what they look like and the tool used. The most common size for
exterior rivets is 5/32", interiors are 1/8", and occasional exterior
buggered holes in the pan will be 3/8".
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 7:43 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Explain Cleco Clamps
>
> Awhile back RJ mentioned using a boatload of Cleco
> clamps when refurbishing a belly pan.
> Can someone explain the sizing and the various styles
> of Cleco clamps available? What kind of tool do you
> need to use them most effectively? What should I be
> shopping for if re-doing a belly pan or other sheet
> metal on an Airstream? And are the used ones
> advertised on some web sites worth messing with?
> John Leggett
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:28:52 -0800
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Shocks for Tow Vehicle
Don,
The best shocks are Koni, followed by Bilstein.
Stay away from the "Load leveler"or other spring booster shocks (including
those you can pressurize).
Shock absorbers are dampening devices to reduce the oscillations after
hitting a bump or rut. Hence the shock mounting is not designed to support
a continual heavy load. [The exception is the one where they are an
integral part of the load leveling suspension system - as in the current
Tahoe's factory installed load leveling option or Mercedes load leveling
option on their station wagon. (I am sure there are others, but these
examples come to mind.)
If you want to increase the load capacity or rear "tail draging" the only
sound solution is stiffer (stronger) springs or air bags. Air Lift air bags
are excellent, and go between the leaf spring and the chassis frame. They
can be inflated to whatever pressure is needed to support the load. (within
limits of course). There is even an on board option available. Air lifts
will also provide an excellent ride under all driving conditions, whereas
stiffer springs usually don't at lighter loads. If you have coil springs in
the rear, you are out of luck. However, I believe that a '99 burb has rear
leaf springs. If not, look into what it would take to install the factory
load leveling option after the fact.
Air Lift makes kits for many vehicles. I believe even Camping World sells
them.
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: [VAC] Shochs for Tow Vehicle
> I am thinking about replacing the original equipment shocks on my 1999
> Suburban 1500. Any suggestions for front and back shocks. I was thinking
> about the adjustable shocks for the rear with the added coil spring.
>
> Thanks
> Don Hardman
> 1976 31' Sovereign
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:35:01 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
Hi RJ I went to that web page and immediatly saved it! I can't figure out
how those spring Cleco clamps work and I don't see how you put it on with
the pliers if your joining two pieces of aluminum.
On Tue, 18 Dec 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Go to :
> http://www.yardstore.com/tools.htm
> to see what they look like and the tool used. The most common size for
> exterior rivets is 5/32", interiors are 1/8", and occasional exterior
> buggered holes in the pan will be 3/8".
>
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:19:10 -0800
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
Cleco clamps are basically a spring loaded temporary rivet which is placed
in the hole into which the rivet will go eventually. The tip of the Cleco
has small spring loaded "fingers" which retract into the clamp's shank, (to
permit insertion into the rivet hole) and then expand to grip the back
surface of the blind hole, while the outer spring loaded cylinder presses on
the outside surface of the joint, thus pulling the pieces together through
the rivet hole from the outside.
The spring mechanism of the Cleco holds the parts together in lieu of the
rivet. Since the spring in the Cleco clamp (it really is a clamp) is quite
strong, the special pliers are used to compress the spring so that the tip
of the Cleco clamp can be inserted into the " to be riveted" hole. Once the
Cleco clamp is installed in the rivet hole, the pliers are no longer needed
on that clamp (until you want to remove the clamp), so it is easily
detatched for use on the next Cleco clamp.
Temporarily installing a panel to its intended destination with Clecos will
properly position the panel so that it doesn't move (or shift) during the
actual riveting operation.
Clecos are typically inserted into enough of the rivet holes to properly
position the panel and prevent its movement during the actual riveting
process. As the rivets are installed and permanently fastened, the Clecos
are removed, as necessary, to gain access to the rivet hole(s) for insertion
of the next rivet.
Also, using Clecos during a repair will allow you to make certain that the
new panel will fit properly before doing the actual riveting.
Clecos can also be used to hold a repair panel in place (which has not been
fully drilled for all the rivets - but just enough to position it) so that
the rest of the mating rivet holes can be drilled into the repair panel.
I hope this is clear.
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
>
> Hi RJ I went to that web page and immediatly saved it! I can't figure out
> how those spring Cleco clamps work and I don't see how you put it on with
> the pliers if your joining two pieces of aluminum.
>
> On Tue, 18 Dec 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Go to :
> > http://www.yardstore.com/tools.htm
> > to see what they look like and the tool used. The most common size for
> > exterior rivets is 5/32", interiors are 1/8", and occasional exterior
> > buggered holes in the pan will be 3/8".
> >
> > RJ
> > VintageAirstream.com
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:45:30 -0600
From: GeorgeHumphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
Cleco pliers pull a pin out of the extended split sleeve
allowing the sleeve to fit through the holes in both pieces of
aluminum. Once the split sleeve is through the
material, release the pliers and the pin is spring
loaded and runs back down through the split sleeve,
thus expanding it. The tips of the split sleeve have
small bumps that hold the backside of the bottom
aluminum and pulls the two or more pieces of
aluminum togather for a tight fit until each hole
is riveted.
George
'89 Excella 29'
At 10:35 AM 12/18/01 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Hi RJ I went to that web page and immediatly saved it! I can't figure out
>how those spring Cleco clamps work and I don't see how you put it on with
>the pliers if your joining two pieces of aluminum.
>
>On Tue, 18 Dec 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> Go to :
>> http://www.yardstore.com/tools.htm
>> to see what they look like and the tool used. The most common size for
>> exterior rivets is 5/32", interiors are 1/8", and occasional exterior
>> buggered holes in the pan will be 3/8".
>>
>> RJ
>> VintageAirstream.com
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:39:51 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Explain Cleco Clamps
WOW Oliver, that was very clear and I now understand why these devices are
rated by diameter. You buy them with the diameter of the rivet your going
to replace them with. And it's for the time you remove a inside panel so
you can work on an outside panel. It lets you do both.
On Tue, 18 Dec 2001, Carol and Oliver Filippi wrote:
> Cleco clamps are basically a spring loaded temporary rivet which is placed
> in the hole into which the rivet will go eventually. The tip of the Cleco
> has small spring loaded "fingers" which retract into the clamp's shank, (to
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 15:19:07 -0600
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: BuzzHacker
While cruising the archives I saw a post from this user. If you are still
out there I would like to ask you a question. Since the archives don't
provide your domain name I would appreciate an e-mail on or offlist so I can
contact you.
Thanks
Dick
Wisconsin
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 17:02:03 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Door Locks
Does anyone one have an internet site or name and phone number for a source
of quality compartment locks such the ones you might see on newer motorhomes
and/or 18 wheel trucks.
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:07:38 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Door Locks
Try this one Don. "The parts store Camping World doesn't you to know
about."
Randy
https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstore/nojava/getcatinfo.cfm?refid=6E914B0B%
2DA913%2D484C%2DA24706ACF1A01770
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:09:20 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Door Locks
Woops, that link didn't go through correct but it is www.rvpartsoutlet.com
then hunt for door locks.
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:51:34 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Door Locks
At 05:02 PM 12/18/01 -0600, Don Hardman wrote:
>Does anyone one have an internet site or name and phone number for a source
>of quality compartment locks such the ones you might see on newer motorhomes
>and/or 18 wheel trucks.
Welllll.. http://www.trimarkhardware.com/ , but to be honest, the
cr*p used on newer motorhomes is just that.
They do have some nice looking stuff, but the lack of repair parts
bugs me.
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
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