VACList-Digest       Sunday, December 16, 2001      Issue 152
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Polishing Tours
        2. Mid-60's short trailers
        3. Re: Polishing Tours
        4. Re: Polishing Tours
        5. Re: Mid-60's short trailers
        6. Re: Manual for 1966 Caravel
        7. Re: Polishing Tours/mistakes
        8. Towing in the Bay Area?
        9. Re: Pigtail wiring problem on 68 Overlander




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:55:27 -0800
From: "Alec Fisken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Polishing Tours

The polishing discussion is fascinating, as always. Wandering around the
web, I found an announcement that Airmark (the Oklahoma place) does mobile
Airstream polishing, in the convenience of your own driveway, apparently.
It's $100 per foot, versus $90 at the factory. It's hard to imagine paying
$1700 to get my 66 Caravel shiney, but then I look at RJ's website and start
looking for justifications. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with
Airmark's mobile polishing tours. And I hope Karl will let us know how the
lower-budget approach to polishing works out.
Kathy Fisken, Seattle WA
proud owner of a newly acquired 66 Caravel!




------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:08:06 -0800
From: "Alec Fisken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Mid-60's short trailers

Last  week, I brought home my "new" 66 Caravel, and finally the relentless
rain stopped long enough for me to look it over more closely. The good news:
no leaks! The bad news: I realized I have little clue about what I'm looking
at! For example, is the Univolt the 4"x4"x8" gray box under the streetside
gaucho, and just behind the closet? It sort of hums, and has electrical
wires attached to it, so maybe? But then what is the gray box a few feet
down that is labeled "polarity" and has separate switches for city and
battery power for lights, and fans, pumps, etc.? As you might guess, the
trailer did not come with a manual. I thought I was so clever to have found
a 66 Airstream Overlander manual posted on TomPatterson.com. It was mostly
applicable to my trailer, but I eventually realized that the most pertinent
manual sections are different for the shorter trailers. I am here to plead
with owners of mid-60's manuals for Caravels or Globetrotters to help me
out! The most critical needs are the chapters on electrical, sewer, and
water systems, and instructions for the Hydro-Flame heater. Also, I'd be
happy to get ahold of chapter 1 (getting acquainted). I would reimburse you
for copying and mailing expenses, if I could get just those sections. And
I'd be eternally grateful!
Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Kathy in Seattle
66 Caravel



------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 01 23:55:47 -0700
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Polishing Tours

> I'm wondering if anyone has experience with
>Airmark's mobile polishing tours. 
===========
I do not believe Airmark does any polishing tours unless they are close 
to their Oklahoma City base.  The made one tour about three years ago to 
west coast and polished three trailers and then he (owner, Jim Weston) 
was   involved in a traffic accident in Calif. and injured badly.  His 
web site does not show any tours scheduled and the site has been that way 
for over a year.   His work is quite good and I was at the time  going to 
have them do mine when the polish tour was interrupted by the accident.  
I then planned on taking it to his shop in Oklahoma and finally just did 
it myself.

Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610     VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
   (polishing report included)  



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 09:42:53 -0500
From: "Ralph Shumaker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Polishing Tours


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Re: polishing;  I soon seen that as much crud as my 60 OL had, it was goi=
ng to cost a fortune for Rolite to do the first removal.  I went to a bod=
y supply shop and bought a gallon of Quick Cut for $18.00 to do the job. =
 It was wonderful. I did the entire trailer and only used half of it.  It=
 was a supply store that sells materials to body shops where I purchased =
it.  Ralph Shumaker  69 OL   #1005

----- Original Message -----
From: Alec Fisken
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 9:58 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Polishing ToursGet more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer d=
ownload : http://explorer.msn.com

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C18616.08E4CF20
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Re: polishing;=
&nbsp; I soon seen that as much crud as my 60 OL had, it was going to cos=
t a fortune for Rolite to do the first removal.&nbsp; I went to a body su=
pply shop and bought a gallon of Quick Cut for $18.00 to do the job.&nbsp=
; It was wonderful. I did the entire trailer and only used half of it.&nb=
sp; It was a supply store that sells materials to body shops where I purc=
hased it.&nbsp; Ralph Shumaker&nbsp; 69 OL&nbsp;&nbsp; #1005</DIV> <DIV>&=
nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-L=
EFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV=
 style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=
=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; COLOR: black; FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>From:</B> Ale=
c Fisken</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, Dec=
ember 15, 2001 9:58 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> M=
ultiple recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Su=
bject:</B> [VAC] Polishing Tours</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML><br clea=
r=3Dall><hr>Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : <a href=3D=
'http://explorer.msn.com'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C18616.08E4CF20--


------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 09:11:18 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mid-60's short trailers

The Uni-volt is the gray humming thing - converts 110v to 12VDC and 18VAC.
The other box you noted is the "Service-Center" and is used to select the
source of where the lights and fans & pumps get their power - either the
battery or from the Uni-volt.

I have uploaded a whole 1965 Owners Manual to the VAC Website in the members
area Manual section - it has all the chapters you need.  The only real
difference between '65 and '66 are the windows, and sometimes aluminum
wiring.  More info on that in FAQ section of the VAC Website.

http://airstream.org

RJ
VAC Webmaster

> From: "Alec Fisken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:08:06 -0800
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Mid-60's short trailers
> 
> Last  week, I brought home my "new" 66 Caravel, and finally the relentless
> rain stopped long enough for me to look it over more closely. The good news:
> no leaks! The bad news: I realized I have little clue about what I'm looking
> at! For example, is the Univolt the 4"x4"x8" gray box under the streetside
> gaucho, and just behind the closet? It sort of hums, and has electrical
> wires attached to it, so maybe? But then what is the gray box a few feet
> down that is labeled "polarity" and has separate switches for city and
> battery power for lights, and fans, pumps, etc.? As you might guess, the
> trailer did not come with a manual. I thought I was so clever to have found
> a 66 Airstream Overlander manual posted on TomPatterson.com. It was mostly
> applicable to my trailer, but I eventually realized that the most pertinent
> manual sections are different for the shorter trailers. I am here to plead
> with owners of mid-60's manuals for Caravels or Globetrotters to help me
> out! The most critical needs are the chapters on electrical, sewer, and
> water systems, and instructions for the Hydro-Flame heater. Also, I'd be
> happy to get ahold of chapter 1 (getting acquainted). I would reimburse you
> for copying and mailing expenses, if I could get just those sections. And
> I'd be eternally grateful!
> Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
> Kathy in Seattle
> 66 Caravel



------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 10:06:51 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Manual for 1966 Caravel

Alec Fisken wrote:
> 
> Last  week, I brought home my "new" 66 Caravel, and finally the relentless
> rain stopped long enough for me to look it over more closely. The good news:
> no leaks! The bad news: I realized I have little clue about what I'm looking
> at! For example, is the Univolt the 4"x4"x8" gray box under the streetside
> gaucho, and just behind the closet? It sort of hums, and has electrical
> wires attached to it, so maybe? But then what is the gray box a few feet
> down that is labeled "polarity" and has separate switches for city and
> battery power for lights, and fans, pumps, etc.? As you might guess, the
> trailer did not come with a manual. I thought I was so clever to have found
> a 66 Airstream Overlander manual posted on TomPatterson.com. It was mostly
> applicable to my trailer, but I eventually realized that the most pertinent
> manual sections are different for the shorter trailers. I am here to plead
> with owners of mid-60's manuals for Caravels or Globetrotters to help me
> out! The most critical needs are the chapters on electrical, sewer, and
> water systems, and instructions for the Hydro-Flame heater. Also, I'd be
> happy to get ahold of chapter 1 (getting acquainted). I would reimburse you
> for copying and mailing expenses, if I could get just those sections. And
> I'd be eternally grateful!
> Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
> Kathy in Seattle
> 66 Caravel
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 

Kathy:

  An owner's manual for your 1966 Caravel might be available
from Secretarial Services, PO Box 484, Sidney, OH  45365;
tel: 937-492-8885.  Call Helen Davis there and ask her.

Fred in Denver


------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 11:38:56 -0600
From: jim clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Polishing Tours/mistakes

--=====================_88793641==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

When I started my "polish project", I didn't want to shell out and then 
find I had the wrong stuff and I made the rounds of the various cutting 
compounds for paint shops... I found the 3M line to be good stuff... 
Available in several different cuts...

The Rolite polishes have a lot of things included along with the cutting 
compound.. I made the mistake of stirring my 300 with a blue pencil... 
guess what ,  blue polish....(took the paint off the pencil in a flash)

The factory ( which has the highest prices)  says that all the Rolite 
polishes have finish protectors...

I would suggest minimizing the amount of hand rubbing... my shoulder joint 
has been acting up ever since the project... which was never completely 
finished...

If you are serious about the polishing, I would suggest biting the bullet 
and getting the Cyclo along with all the polishing cloth needed and 
skipping the manual, try everything phase....My worst was the big Sioux 
polisher with the sheepskin bonnet that snotted up and put some nasty marks 
in the aluminum....

One of these days the 23' Safari will get the polish and reseal from one of 
the professionals....

Regards,

Jim


At 09:42 AM 12/16/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Re: polishing;  I soon seen that as much crud as my 60 OL had, it was 
>going to cost a fortune for Rolite to do the first removal.  I went to a 
>body supply shop and bought a gallon of Quick Cut for $18.00 to do the 
>job.  It was wonderful. I did the entire trailer and only used half of 
>it.  It was a supply store that sells materials to body shops where I 
>purchased it.  Ralph Shumaker  69 OL   #1005
>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Alec Fisken
>>Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 9:58 PM
>>To: Multiple recipients of VACList
>>Subject: [VAC] Polishing Tours
>
>
>----------
>Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com

Jim Clark

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--=====================_88793641==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
When I started my &quot;polish project&quot;, I didn't want to shell out
and then find I had the wrong stuff and I made the rounds of the various
cutting compounds for paint shops... I found the 3M line to be good
stuff... Available in several different cuts...<br><br>
The Rolite polishes have a lot of things included along with the cutting
compound.. I made the mistake of stirring my 300 with a blue pencil...
guess what ,&nbsp; blue polish....(took the paint off the pencil in a
flash)<br><br>
The factory ( which has the highest prices)&nbsp; says that all the
Rolite polishes have finish protectors...<br><br>
I would suggest minimizing the amount of hand rubbing... my shoulder
joint has been acting up ever since the project... which was never
completely finished... <br><br>
If you are serious about the polishing, I would suggest biting the bullet
and getting the Cyclo along with all the polishing cloth needed and
skipping the manual, try everything phase....My worst was the big Sioux
polisher with the sheepskin bonnet that snotted up and put some nasty
marks in the aluminum....<br><br>
One of these days the 23' Safari will get the polish and reseal from one
of the professionals....<br><br>
Regards,<br><br>
Jim<br><br>
<br>
At 09:42 AM 12/16/2001 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Re: polishing;&nbsp; I soon seen
that as much crud as my 60 OL had, it was going to cost a fortune for
Rolite to do the first removal.&nbsp; I went to a body supply shop and
bought a gallon of Quick Cut for $18.00 to do the job.&nbsp; It was
wonderful. I did the entire trailer and only used half of it.&nbsp; It
was a supply store that sells materials to body shops where I purchased
it.&nbsp; Ralph Shumaker&nbsp; 69 OL&nbsp;&nbsp; #1005<br>
&nbsp;<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>----- Original Message -----<br>
<b>From:</b> Alec Fisken<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 15, 2001 9:58 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Multiple recipients of VACList<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [VAC] Polishing Tours</blockquote><br>
<hr>
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
<a href="'http://explorer.msn.com'">http://explorer.msn.com</a></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Jim Clark<br><br>
[EMAIL PROTECTED]</html>

--=====================_88793641==_.ALT--



------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 15:25:04 -0700
From: Chris Rasch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Towing in the Bay Area?

Hi,

Many thanks to those who sent advice and suggestions
to me regarding my query for an Airstream within my
$2750.00 budget.  Fortunately, I was able to find a
quite suitable 1970 31' Airstream Sovereign.

Now I need to find a way to move the trailer from it's
curent location in South San Francisco to it's new
home in the Palo Alto area.

I've called several towing companies and prices range
from $175 - $200  for the 30 - 45 mile tow.  It also
looks as if I could rent a truck from U-haul capable
of towing a 31' ft trailer for between $20 - $40 per
day.

However, I'm a bit tapped out, and scared of towing a
31' trailer on my own.  I would feel a lot more
comfortable if someone more experienced were available
to help me.

Therefore, I would like to offer my services as brute
labor in exchange for help towing my  trailer to the
Palo Alto area.  In particular, I thought I might be
able to help you polish your Airstream, which, by all
accounts, is a laborious, time-consuming task. I'm
also open to other tasks you may have.

I don't yet know exactly what the GVWR is, but I
expect it to be less than  the 31 'ft. Excella 1000
which has a GVWR of 8300 lb and a hitch weight of 690.
 Aside from fixed appliances, the trailer is empty. I
have until January 5th to move it.

If this is something that interests you, please let me
know.  Also, I would be grateful for recommendations
to towing companies in the Bay Area that you've been
happy with.  Thanks for any help you may wish to
provide.

Chris



--
Web: http://www.openknowledge.org/





------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 18:51:37 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Pigtail wiring problem on 68 Overlander

John,
 I don't think I replied to this, just found it in my INBOX folder.
(oldtimers' disease, I guess)

That small metal box thingy is a circuit breaker and is probably in
either the BATT line going to the trailer for charging from the tow
vehicle or it could be in the hot lead that goes to the breakaway switch
on the tongue of the trailer.

If you've wired the pigtail with the standard wire color code, the best
thing is to disconnect all the wires under the bellypan and reconnect
them in proper sequence. The cable from the truck should have
White=Ground, Black=Hot. The trailer should have a White=Ground (go
ahead and connect them) and probably a heavy-guage Blue, or maybe Black
which will be the hot wire to the battery. Connect this to the pigtail's
Black.

Using that Hot wire from the truck, connect it momentarily to each of
the other wires to find out what they do. Temporarily put an inline fuse
in the circuit to prevent burning anything up. If the Black wire from
the truck isn't 'hot', fix that at the truck.

I think the green wire in the trailer is tail/clearance lights, the
yellow in the pigtail will probably be left over unless you have backup
lights on the trailer. If you do, and want them working, you can connect
the yellow wire accordingly, but you'll probably have to also find the
B/U light circuit in the truck and connect it on that end also.

Hope it helps, and isn't too late!!

                                          <<Jim>>

> "John R. Kleven" wrote:
> 
> Just changed over to blade-style pigtail end to match my truck and
> found I have no power at the pigtail.  I immediately figured it was a
> ground problem.  Went to the inspection panel under the bellypan and
> pulled down all the wires.  There is a small metal connector mounted
> to the belly called a "shortstop".  Is this batt or ground.  The wires
> are blue going to and from it.
> Using a test light, I cannot find the hot wire in any of the harness
> and all of the exterior lights are dead.  Nothing when I jump from my
> truck to the harness either.  Stumped.  My battery is charged.
> Thanks.
> Randy

-- 

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>


------------------------------


End of VACList-Digest  #152
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