Thanks, guys ... time to break out the LX to check some lens hoods.
Shel
You get 100% once you take out the LX finder. That's the way I check my
hoods.
Andre
Slowing is no good, they have to be absolutely still -- killed and
fixed. It's impossible to take a stack of pictures of live animals
small or large.
An entomologist friend has two soft techniques. One is to put the
bug in the cold (portable freezer if on the field) for some time (I
don't
I haven't used my ist D for photomicrography, but I have one available for
sale.
Christian
A D or a microscope?
Andre
Hi all,
I've been off the list for some time. I need an digital camera that
will be convenient to use on a microscope. My question is has anyone
on the list used an *ist D for this?
D
If looking for 5X - 10X photography or so, a microscope lens (with a
RMS mount adapter) or a reversed 8mm or
KEH has two PZ-1/PZ-1p grip straps available and listed at quite
reasonable prices.
The interesting thing is, they're described as having a few dead pixels.
Anyone know how to fix dead pixels in a grip strap? ;-)
Joe
Use the strap on the few bad pixels...
Andre
Indeed. The second technique was some special glue. But I guess
some insects are then moving trying to escape from the glue.
Andre
If you leave the bug there long enough, you'll have forever...
Andre Langevin wrote:
Slowing is no good, they have to be absolutely still -- killed and
fixed
What would anyone recommend as a good 2x teleconverter for M42?
I know the 7-element design is preferred...there just seems to be so many
low quality ones on ebay, and I can't tell the difference...
Mark
Komura Telemore is a very good one. Vivitar Macro 2X is also very
good. Both multi-coated.
I don't have one, but from what I've gathered it's a fine lens, and
relatively rare. Based on that information
I'd say you're likely to pay an arm and a leg, possibly with an ear
or two thrown in.
John Whittingham wrote:
I know one of you guys must haveone, could you give me an opinion
of the
Better to look for the A 20mm f2.8 as the 18mm is in fact a 19mm.
Thanks Andre, the A 20mm f/2.8 fetches good money, I've always missed the
bargain ones, is the 20mm really 20mm :)
John
Yes.
Andre
Nothing fancy. There's an 85 mm, a 35 mm, and a standard 50 mm.
Any 85mm is quite fancy, pricewise at least...
Andre
A friend wants to buy a Pentax digital PS. What is the best one
overall (considering resolution, flare, noise, handling)?
To me, S5i seems a good one.
Andre
The other golden calves I am hoping to get my hands on eventually are:
SMC Pentax-FA 35mm f/2 AL
SMC Pentax-FA 20mm f/2.8
Only available in FA...
Andre
I could be wrong, but I think it's plastic AL some sort (same as
FA*24 AL). Pentax Japan web site doesn't seem to emphasis it's
glass AL, like the FA31.
The FA* 24 mm. 2.0 has a sandwich aspherical element (aspheric
plastic surface on a glass lens), but the FA 35 2.0 has a molded all
glass
...any experience with these lenses in the M42 mount?
Likewise for the Takumar 200/3.5 pre-set
Shel
I tried this lens in comparison with M-200/4. I took the same
picture with both lenses, sunny day, f8 probably. I could hardly
distinguish the two lenses (resolution and contrast). Same
I know it is a little flash without zoom head and so on.
But what does it offer? Little but with quality or totaly bad unit?
I'd never buy it alone but I could get it in Kit so...
--
Thibouille
If I remember correctly, it is TTL only. Check on Boz's site. I
think I have
This is good news for people with old Metz SCA-system flashes. They will be
able to use them on the D and the Ds very soon :-)
Tim
I wonder starting from what flash model their adapter would work in P-TTL...
Andre
I recently bought an M 100 f/4 macro on eBay that was supposed to
only need an interior cleaning . Brought it into a tech today for
evaluation - lens separation!
Major bummer. Is there any hope for inexpensive repair for this or
is it only good now for a soft portrait shots?
Thanks
Have
http://cgi.befr.ebay.be/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7525002092
I don't care about SFX, 240FT.
70-210 is cool and 35-70 is a nice addition.
Anyone needs an SFX ? :D
It's an SFXn! Much more interesting than the SFX...
Andre
Is this lens good? Will a 50mm F4.0 or F2.8 be sharper?
You would need to compare it using a subject with very fine details,
unlike the speed dial. A sramp for example.
Andre
Manual focus: MX
Auto-focus: MZ-S
Pocket camera: Espio Mini
Andre
A sramp for example.
A live sramp of course...
...I meant a stamp!
Andre
MX
I still have the one I bought a lifetime ago when I
was a student in the early 80s. It's been used and
abused and is still going strong. It's a wonderful
camera.
Wendy
Seems like we've had the same long-term affair with the MX. It's
hard to turn your back to the first camera you've
On Thu, 2005-07-07 at 01:56, Joaquim Carvalho wrote:
When I receive the autofocus lens I'll report on how it works.
I just got the 35-70 F2.8 I bought on Ebay.
It's a fast K quality zoom lens made of real metal and plenty of clean
SMC covered glass. It has an electric motor inside I can
A funny story: The auction (from Australia) said fungus on this lens.
In an act of faith I tried to believe the guy really meant no fungus on
this lens. I bought the lens, there's no fungus on it!!! :)
This guy seriously misrepresented the article, what feedback does he
deserve?
Great
Boris Liberman wrote:
Hi!
I'm still sort of casually looking for a real macro lens... Just
wondering, how do you people reckon the old f/4 Pentax macros
compare to the newer FA-100 f/2.8? (Just came across one of the
former class for sale; not sure if it is the F, A or original K
variant -
My A 24/2.8 doesn't work as it should on recent bodies because, I
suspect, the small metal bead does not protrude from the lens mount.
How can I repair this?
Andre
MX
Andre
Say you wanted to bring an SLR and 1-3 lenses with you
on a mountain biking trip... how would you do it, and
what sort of body/lenses would you bring?
-Jon Myers.
I'd go for an MX body (or KX) with M-lenses (small, light but
all-metal) in a small padded fanny bag.
1 lens: 40/2.8 or 35/2.8
2
I was fascinated to note that the DS has one feature I commented
would have been nice to have on the ist-D: spot white balance (whereby
you can set custom white balance and the camera only reads the area
within the spot metering circle rather than averaging the entire frame).
Nice.
--
Mark
Any idea when this lens will be available?
Andre
Great gnus!
Less run for your life surrounded by your predators - cars...
Andre
The camera is the MZ-5n, which is on loan from a local list
member, and the lens is a Pentax short tele 1.8 aperture. When using the
lens on the A setting it will sometimes show the aperture in the viewfinder
as 1.7 ;-)) I didn't check to see if that's the case in aperture priority
mode as
D1X is a very fine camera...
Be a bit more careful with overexposure, the sensor is older and has a
teeny bit less latitude so highlights can clip a bit more easily.
Frantisek
The same would apply to the D? Are recent sensors (any brand) better
on that respect?
Andre
I lost the bigger ruber cap that protects the connectors in the bottom of
the MZS, where the Battery Grip touch. The Portuguese dealer say that they
don't have spare parts of the two rubber caps, the Belgium Pentax center
don't even answer to my emails, and I even tried the japanese email
([EMAIL
What was the name of the 35mm camera that also featured interchangeable
backs like the Ektra?
Jim A.
There was a Mamiya single-lens RF that did.
Andre
To do it the other way around, you'd need to get the Canon lens 1.46mm
closer to the film plane. So how could you do that? You could mill 1.46mm
off the lens (not possible)...
Cotty
On very few lenses it is possible. I've been able to slightly grind
(less than 1 mm) a pre-set (without any
Is the FA 50mm 1.4 gone or has production has been cut back.
Everyone seems to be OOS of the lens.
John G
I have also been waiting for the lens for over 2 months now (ordered
from Pentax Japan by Pentax Canada) while the 35/2 was readily
available. It is not shown on Pentax Canada site...
Which 20/24/28 primes show the least?
-Lon
The A20mm f/2.8 seems good. I tend to be pretty sensitive to barrel
distortion, and I have used the 20 pretty extensively ove rthe past
few months with the home reno pictures, and nothing has jumped out at
me.
I agree that the A20 f/2.8 is quite good, and
I will also admit to distrusting the M lenses categorically due to their
smaller size, even with plenty of examples that bigger does not
necessarily imply better optical performance.
It seems to me that what Pentax and some other manufacturers have
tried to do in the 70s (following Olympus) was
First, a great many M lenses were identical optically to either the
preceding K lens, or to the following A lens,
John
50/4, 100/4 400/5.6 are the K lenses that made it to M unchanged
optically but many M lenses went to A unchanged except for slightly
better coatings and, generally, lower
This M thread keeps jumping from a subject to another!
As this one is still hot, may I clarify one point:
First, a great many M lenses were identical optically to either the
preceding K lens, or to the following A lens, so I don't think that
in those (many) cases anybody can credibly claim
Eventually Pentax relented and added Zooms,
but for a long time only the M zoom was the 40-80mm and that was
introduced as by Pentax with an 'apology' on quality.
I'm not sure there were any
K zooms that were not simply updated screw-mounts.
Zoom chronology:
Mid 75. K bodies and lenses
I got something similar also:
Our antivirus software has detected a large ammount of viruses outgoing
from your email account, you may use our free anti-virus tool to clean up
your computer software.
Bad spacing between words and the word ammount gave me a cue...
Andre
Later in 79: M40-80, M24-35 (78-11), M75-150
This should have been (79-11) of course.
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ya just missed a couple. I sold two K20/4.0's in the past few weeks.
Wish
I'd have known you wanted one ... it's really a dog and I was glad to be
rid of 'em (Bow-Wow)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
First off, can anybody tell me why it appears to be
Hi,
I do not know whether it has been mentioned before, but in one of
those Pentax lens booklets from the 70s, Pentax claims that the
K150/f4 was one of the best medium telephotos on the market.
Arnold
In an older Asahi booklet, the Super-Takumar 150mm, probably version
1, was described as
Has any of you compared these two lenses? Or each of them against
other trans-standard zooms?
Andre
If the LX was conceived in the K era and took a while to
develop then the fact that it isn't M sized makes sense.
DJE
Even if the LX had been finished a litle latter, in the M era, to
make it smaller would have been impossible.
Andre
31mm LTD
Apo-Lanthar 125mm Macro
4000 dpi Nikon scanner
One of the few Pentax-M 35mm f1.4
Andre
On Sun, 7 Mar 2004, William M Kane wrote:
We've discussed this issue, and decided that the circle created by
the DA lenses is optimized for the smaller sensor area of the *ist D.
Therefore, the DA will not produce a full frame image on a normal 35mm
camera.
You can see this by mounting the
Another lens worth considering is the older 12mm f8 fisheye made by
Sigma and sold under various brand names like Accura, Spiratone, etc.
145 degrees wide.
The image circle is 36mm. On a 35mm camera, the circle just hits the
middle of the two horizontal limits of the film. Plenty of covering
SN: 7 000 403 Original retail price $467. (18/3.5 was $549. 24/2.8 $292.)
20.38mm f/3.95
Distorsion: less than 1% barrel (hard to believe)
Light falloff at 5.6: 2.8 stops
This tiny lens delivered outstanding central sharpness even
wide-open. Edge sharpness maximized at f/8 and overall
I know someone who has a M 100mm/2.8 for sale!
Jens Bladt
But I want the A. I know they're formula-optically the same but I
like the cooler contrastier A coatings...
Collin
That A costing were a bit more contrasty than M, I knew, but are A
lenses generally cooler than K and M lenses?
Andre
I've never handled a wide angle pentax zoom. I just use the 20mm
and zoom with my feet.
Regards, Bob S.
Most complex zoom ever created...
Although what you do with your feet would be called (in film
making...) travelling rather than zooming.
I digress. Oh well...
Andre
Does anyone have any experience with this lens? Is it any good?
Steven Desjardins
A bit off-topic but Tokina makes a dedicated low-power achromatic
close-up lens, the CUP 840, which is also a cheaper alternative to
the Pentax T-226 ($60. instead of $110.) Both have about 0,5 diopter
power.
...also the A200/2.8 and 200/2.5 with a 77-72 step-down ring.
Andre
I too would opt for the F, but I have even heard people (outside the
list) say the F is not a patch on the A.
Outside the list... hmm... does it count?
Perhaps they are wrong, or they have different criteria to me.
Kostas
I heard such praise for the F (the Pentax, not the Takumar) that I
bought
Oops, it should have been read as:
I had the A 70-210 for a while many years ago...
Can anyone recommend a reputable place for Pentax repair that could take a
look at my 35mm lens. There is some oil on the blades and the aperture
just does not seem as snappy as it should be. I live in the Twin Cities,
but am assuming I'll have to mail it somewhere for repair.
This is a pretty
The K2 looks like it was also based on
Spotmatic technology (with the mirror-up lever in the same spot as the
old meter-on, for example) but appears to be aiming at something
different. I'd suggest that that something different was the Nikon
Nikkormat EL, which was introduced a few years earlier
Shel's list is on my site. When I entered Pentax repair in google it
was the 5th item that came up.
http://graywolfphoto.com/pentax/pentax_repair_shops.html
I complicated things. I did PDML Pentax repair rather... no
mention of your page this way...
Andre
They must have settled on this before the 1975 KX was launched.
The1980 LX was probably developped over a period of at least 5
years...
Andre
LX = 60 as in 60th anniversary of Asahi Optical
Maybe X just makes a cool graphical statement, with the LX being a
happy coincidence
William
website... blame Dario... ;-)
Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Andre Langevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: unique K2
They must have settled on this before the 1975 KX was launched. The
1980 LX
I'm still looking lustfully at the new Topcon-styled silver Bessa TM thing
with M42 screw mount. If it had something better than an MX-style
exposure readout I'd probably already have one.
DJE
I always thought of the MX readout as a good one. It shows clearly
half-stops, while the LX shows only
Has anyone ever seen one of these before? I assume it's a third-party
modification, as there's nothing to indicate on the body that it was
designed by Pentax that way, but it's very well done.
chris
With the rewind cam modified and a permanent half-frame window? Any photos?
The only 35mm body
Lets see, the MX has the meter reading, the f-stop, and the shutter
speed right there in the finder. If I need two stops of compensation
I can meter correctly, then simply change the shutter speed or
aperture two stops.
graywolf
On that aspect, the LX was a deception compared to the MX I was
Does this mean you own one? I have the original Konica Autoreflex that had
a switch to convert from full to half-frame. Having a Pentax half-framer
would be a real find.
Jim A.
The Konica can be a screw mount camera, like Canon T90 etc. A
Pentax K-mount half-frame would be more versatile. But
On Mar 12, 2004, at 9:25 PM, Andre Langevin wrote:
But isn't the *ist-D a kind of horizontal half-frame...
That's like saying a frog is a kind of horse. The *ist-d is an APS
sensor camera. It's not half frame 35mm. In fact, it's not even
film, so there's no point in discussing it in those terms
I´d say the Canon´s exposure automation is better - a lot - than the sunny
16 rule - and it is not always sunny - inside a building for example. Better
way to good exposures is to observe what the meter sees and use exposure
lock,
Except on sunny days where F16 rules AFAIK,
you're right. This is
I've bought the famous Pentax Zoom A 70/210 4 but i'm a little bit
disapointed because there are pincushion distortions.
When I take a picture, for exemple, of a painting, the borders are deformed.
Is it normal ? For me it's important because I do a lot of architectural
photos.
Olivier.
It is
I'm curious what the gigantic 80-210/4.5 SMC-T lens could do!
DJE
Same normal zoom behaviour...
I will check the 3.5 version tomorrow (K-mount, as long as the 4.5 but fat).
85-210mm to be exact.
Andre
Sometimes the simplest, most essential things are forgotten
D76 is great for many films. Excellent for Plus-X.
D76 1:1 also fine for 3200 films (at iso 800-1000)
The only real developer issue I've ever heard of
is Rodinal in some water suppies (specifically, Cleveland, OH)
doesn't work well.
I'm curious what the gigantic 80-210/4.5 SMC-T lens could do!
DJE
Same normal zoom behaviour...
I will check the 3.5 version tomorrow (K-mount, as long as the 4.5 but fat).
85-210mm to be exact.
Andre
I checked my 85-210mm f/3.5 and distorsion is noticably better
corrected than in the 4.5 lens
You really should try XTOL. XTOL is the recommended developer for TMAX film,
not TMAX developer.
tv
What is the best way to agitate the film with XTOL? I've had
mitigated results with 3200 films (Kodak and Ilford) and I suspect
this combination might need more or less agitation than what I gave
You're right about measuring small quantities but I guess a small laboratory
scale would help there.
And a mask to protect you from the fine powder that gets in the air.
Andre
XTOL isn't really the best push developer... Microphen or DD-X work better.
If I remember well I was using XTOL with a 1:2 or 1:3 dilution. I
guess I was looking for trouble...
Microphen is the next one I was to try. A friend of mine prepares
Microphen concentrates at home. I'll try it for
Kodak recommends against 1:3 these days.
I would have liked them to come to this conclusion before...
I think you're agitating too hard.
That was my preliminary conclusion after reading about the kind of
results I had had. So I calmed down. But I was not sure if my new
good results were
Midwest has a Brooks-Veriwide with a 47mm Schneider.
Neat looking. 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 (6x10 format), Graflok back,
ground-glass viewing.
Anyone know about these? Experience?
CRB
A friend of mine has one. To use this camera you really need to get
a center-filter to screw on the lens. Expensive...
Not a word on the identity of the lens that comes with the body!
Andre
I think that any camera lens made since the about the 1920:s will be coated.
Lasse
Make it the 1950s. First japanese coated lens was by Minolta in 1946.
Andre
To those that have used a 2X tele-extender with a telephoto (200 or
300mm), what do you seem to find to be the compromising
element...loss of sharpness, contrast, etc? When I used a 300/4A*
with a 2x-AS I was always impressed with its results. But now with
another system I'm getting a
every camera user community I've been exposed to... seems convinced that
their lenses are at least as good if not better than the other brands.
I noticed it also. It goes farther. On one Minolta group, for
example, I noticed that people took for granted that multi-coating
was invented by
I've had my sights set on buying the 77mm Limited for
quite some time now. After receiving my tax refund I
went out looking for one (through the internet) and
found one at Adorama. It was used in EX+ condition so
I bit and purchased it. It arrived today and upon
inspection it seemed that the
All I can say is that you, or anybody, follow this thread back and
find out where my wordings originate from.
Then please return and address this problem appropriately. That's all I ask.
Thanks,
Lasse
After a certain point, it doesn't matter who begun, just who are the
ones still fighting.
Cool effect. I went out on Monday and took a few shots using the
Hoya RM 90 - a few snaps (no art intended here either.)
The original color balance:
http://www.markcassino.com/temp/IMGP4305.jpg
De-saturated with the levels adjusted:
http://www.markcassino.com/temp/IMGP4305bw.jpg
A few other
graywolf wrote:
AFAIK the filter glass is computed into the lens formula. That
would mean replacing the filters with gels would not be a good idea.
But to add it behind the lens would not cause any problem. It has
been tried by some PDMLers I think.
Andre
Does anyone have experience with these lenses? I'm interested in
which lens produces the nicest bokeh and their other merits as well.
I saw an example of the bokeh from the 150mm on Valentin's site, but
no example for the 135mm.
Jim
If you want a superior lens but don't mind the extra
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I´m wondering when the first snake skin *istD turns up...
After Pentax shows a retro leather version...
Andre
...somehow scans from slides often don't look the same even I was
able to pull about the same amount of shade details in Photoshop.
Perhaps a true 16bit scanner will do better (my Minolta Elite is
12bit only)?
Alan Chan
The Minolta 5400 is 16 bit. Nikon 4000 is 14 bit, 5000 is 16 bit and
more
Is anyone using a hood for this lens? Any recommendations? I have been
using a shallow round hood, but it vignettes at the short end, even
retracted. Probably has to be round, as the front element rotates to
focus.
The Hoya multi-hood is the solution. There are two types, the
easiest one to use
The Hoya red line model:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlistA=detailsQ=sku=23165is=REG
They say they go from 35mm. Depends on the size, some starts at 28mm
but not the 58mm if I remember well (I just checked this out a few
days ago...)
The Hama (and also rebadged
Hi Tan,
http://www.mp3direct.com.au/webstore/default.asp
They said that stock was limited but they did still have some in stock
this time last week. It won't hurt to try I guess!
Back-order...
They are located in Australia though, so even better for you with the
exchange rate and all!
Do all
Cotty:
I find the focus ring, with its clutch-type push/pull affair flimsy,
and I'm not a big fan of Smegma lenses.
Not a typo then...
Andre
I have a couple of Oly 35SPs, G.Zuiko 1:1.7, 42mm.
That glass is phenomenal too.
keith whaley
Agree fully. SP surprisingly has spot metering. Have you been able
to use it successfully with an alcaline battery?
Andre
Heh, heh, and I have a Wide E!
keith
How is the Wide E's lens?
The few wide RFs are more interesting than the normal lens ones for
street photography... The Olympus ones are the less uncommon I
think. The Minolta Wide is too ugly to be seen with it on the
street...
Other RFs have longer
About CDs, I've been told to look for Made in Japan. Only ones in
Canada are the Fuji, in 5, 10 and 20 pack, not the towers. Never had
a problem with these.
My second Fuji 50-tower was Made in Taiwan (I was not aware of the
change). All 50 CDs tend to bug at around 1:00, and I noticed it
By the way, all Pentax WA lenses has a zone focus mark (a red number
on the distance scale) to be aligned with the f8 mark (red also).
You are then in hyperfocal mode as Doug explained.
It has been mentionned here that Pentax might not be conservative
enough on their hyperfocal scales; to drop
Is it safe to say that the late SMC Takumar lens formulas became the
early SMC Pentax or K lenses?
Jim
Most are; the few SMC takumar optical formulas that have been
modified are K28/3.5, K35/2 and K300/4. I've read the K17/4 is also
modified but I cannot see the difference from the optical
...Well 29 meters are sertainly much less than 1/3 of distance to infinity,
isn't it ? :-)
Jens Bladt
To figure out that distance, one needs:
A: A powerfull CPU...
B: A call to the NASA...
C: A little taoist thinking...
Andre
Lens element and group configurations can be identical, but designs
may still be significantly different due to different glass formulas
surface figures.
Bob...
Indeed. This is the case of K17/4.
Pentax public presentations of lenses (as reported in Japanese
english-written Camerart magazine,
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