The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 1 : Issue 23 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Bleeding question
  Re: Bleeding question
  Re: Bleeding question
  Strange E46 radio behavior
  Re: Bleeding question
  e36 Rear Control Arm Replacement
  Re: e36 Rear Control Arm Replacement
  E30 with Mustang injector seal kits (calling Michael McCoy!)
  My Recaros on Ebay
  Re: '88' 3254is no spark
  Re: '88' 3254is no spark
  Admin: Subject lines.
  E30 325i Emmission Question
  Re: E30 325i Emmission Question
  Re: E30 325i Emmission Question

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Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 13:13:26 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bleeding question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Chris, I don't know of any specific E36 issues, but here is my generic
answer.  On some models (like the E30), the hose for the clutch slave
connects high up on the reservoir.  If the fluid level is low enough for
air to get into the brake lines, then it certainly is also low enough for
air to get into the clutch line.  So, just to be safe, you bleed the clutch
while you're bleeding the brakes.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA


>I've seen/heard it recommended numerous times to make sure the clutch
>slave has been bled when people are having issues with a  soft/low
>pedal.
>
>Perhaps I don't understand the system properly.  Is the clutch side of
>the reservoir not dedicated?  I'm under the impression it is, at least
>on my E36, and would be surprised to hear otherwise.  If the clutch
>circuit had air in it, is it possible that this could be felt in the
>brake pedal?  How?  I always bleed the slave when doing a flush, but I
>don't see the need when just doing brake work.  Please correct me if I'm
>wrong.
>
>Chris B.
>'94 325i




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:18:27 -0500
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bleeding question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

So the E30 doesn't have a separate side to the reservoir like the E36s?
On an E36, the clutch side of the reservoir doesn't even start to fill
up until the brake side is nearly full, so of course draining one side
doesn't affect the other.

Chris B.
'94 325i

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 4:13 PM
To: Chris Baker
Cc: UUC Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] Bleeding question


Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Chris, I don't know of any specific E36 issues, but here is my generic
answer.  On some models (like the E30), the hose for the clutch slave
connects high up on the reservoir.  If the fluid level is low enough for
air to get into the brake lines, then it certainly is also low enough
for
air to get into the clutch line.  So, just to be safe, you bleed the
clutch
while you're bleeding the brakes.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 13:29:08 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bleeding question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


It does have a divider, but the divider is not so high that fluid couldn't
slosh out of one side into the other under some, um, extreme driving
conditions.  Besides, just as a general rule, if you're bleeding the
brakes, why not bleed the clutch hydraulics too?  The fluid is just as old.
Then again, like I said, I'm no E36 expert.

I'm curious:  Why would you not want to bleed the cutch at the same time?

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA


>So the E30 doesn't have a separate side to the reservoir like the E36s?
>On an E36, the clutch side of the reservoir doesn't even start to fill
>up until the brake side is nearly full, so of course draining one side
>doesn't affect the other.
>
>Chris B.
>'94 325i
>
>>Chris, I don't know of any specific E36 issues, but here is my generic
>>answer.  On some models (like the E30), the hose for the clutch slave
>>connects high up on the reservoir.  If the fluid level is low enough for
>>air to get into the brake lines, then it certainly is also low enough
>>for
>>air to get into the clutch line.  So, just to be safe, you bleed the
>>clutch
>>while you're bleeding the brakes.
>>
>>Scott Miller
>>GGC BMW CCA





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 13:26:08 -0800
From: "Eric Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Strange E46 radio behavior
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The stock cassette radio in my 2001 325iT is acting strange. Anytime I
switch to FM (either upon radio power-up or from AM or CD) and the first
time I push one of the steering wheel scan station preset buttons, it always
goes to preset #4 no matter what. Subsequent presses of the preset buttons
go through the stations in the proper order. Does anyone know what's going
on? Is there a way to reset the radio, short of disconnecting the battery?
Or will it take a dealer visit to resolve this problem? TIA!

Eric Liu
'01 325iT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:51:54 -0500
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bleeding question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

No, I didn't mention it in the first post.  My initial question was more
general.  I tackled the specifics of my problem in a post a few weeks
ago.

Chris B.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 4:44 PM
To: Chris Baker
Subject: RE: [UUC] Bleeding question




Yes, climbing under the car is a PITA.

Correct, if no problems with the clutch, air in the brake side should
*probably* not affect the clutch side - *normally*.

Yes, the pedal slowly going to the floor is a master cylinder symptom.
And
guess what?  When you replace it, you'll have to remove the reservoir,
and
when you put in the new MC, you'll have to bleed everything, including
the
damn clutch.

Did you mention the pedal going to the floor in the first post?  If so,
sorry I tried to steer you in the wrong direction.  That is a dead
giveaway.

Scott


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 15:56:54 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: e36 Rear Control Arm Replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I looked up the procedure in my Bentley manual and unfortunately it is not
as easy as they make it out to be.

I'm replacing the rear lower control arms (wishbones) on my 1996 M3 and am
having difficulty with clearance for removal of the top bolt.  Once the
bolt is loose and ready to pull its clearance is stopped by the
differential housing making it impossible to completely slide out .  It
seems like the differential has to be lifted ever so slightly (I would
guess ~ 1/2" will do it) just so the top bolt can be removed.  Has anyone
else struggled with this?  Is that assumption correct?  Do I have to loosen
(or remove) the diff's 3 mounting bolts and raise it to gain the necessary
clearance or am I missing something else?

Any insight or tricks you can provide will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks
in advance.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 17:32:07 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: e36 Rear Control Arm Replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I looked up the procedure in my Bentley manual and unfortunately it is
> not as easy as they make it out to be.
>
> I'm replacing the rear lower control arms (wishbones) on my 1996 M3 and
> am having difficulty with clearance for removal of the top bolt.  Once
> the bolt is loose and ready to pull its clearance is stopped by the
> differential housing making it impossible to completely slide out .  It
> seems like the differential has to be lifted ever so slightly (I would
> guess ~ 1/2" will do it) just so the top bolt can be removed.  Has anyone
> else struggled with this?  Is that assumption correct? Do I have to
loosen
> (or remove) the diff's 3 mounting bolts and raise it to gain the
necessary
> clearance or am I missing something else?

Tony,
Yes, yes, yes.
You will need to remove the rubber diff bushings and lift it up as high as
it will go. That will give you just enough room to remove the inboard rear
control arm attachment bolt.
Of course the rear sway bar will be in the way of removing the rear diff
bushings. So that one will have to come off as well. Thus what looks like a
simple 1 hour job turns into a 3-4 hour project.

On the plus side, once you set both rear wheels to about the same max
negative camber, it will be close enough to perfect to skip a trip to the
alignment rack. Notice - I would still recommend paying for an allignment
to buy a peace of mind. But in the 3 E36s that I had worked on to replace
rear lower control arms, all 3 were within stock camber range.

If you are going to do an alignment, I would invest the time into replacing
the rear trailing arm bushings as well (RTABs). If your car has 60-100K
miles on the original bushings, there is a 50:50 chance they are due for a
replacement. Driving on torn-up RTABs may lead to the failure of RTAB
bracket attachment threads == $$$.

Hope this helps,

alex f




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 17:49:37 -0600
From: "dan hagrman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E30 with Mustang injector seal kits (calling Michael McCoy!)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi All,
Question about the 89-94 Mustang injector kits ($2.39 ea at OReillys) is the
blue pintle instead of yellow--has anyone tried the blue pintle caps in
their e30?  If so I'll be very happy; the blue caps looked taller than the
yellow ones (?).
btw Tagging Michael because he said the kit will work, wondering if that's
empirical knowledge.
thanks,
dan in kc, e30s


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:00:53 -0800
From: "Clan Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: My Recaros on Ebay
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Gratuitous self-serving advertisement for a pair of gen-u-ine Recaro
Automotive Seats, Style Model, aftermarket, not OEM.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33701
&item=2443657311

http://tinyurl.com/vf9f

Thank you for this moment of your valuable day. Please continue with the
regular discussion.

Mike

---------------------------------------
Clan Hood-Douda - Arcadia Farm
Lacomb, Oregon 




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:07:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Richard Vijeh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: '88' 3254is no spark
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

If the timing belt is broken he is going to have much
more probelms than just no spark or voltage. You are
guranteed to bend at least a few valves, if not all
any time the t-belt breaks (or event slips a single
tooth) on an M20.

Having said that, the ignition problem could be the
engine speed sensor (ie: forgot the plug it in ).

Rich

>TR wrote:
>
>A friend has an 88 325is , the timing belt broke a
tooth >and he is replacing it. Now he has no spark and
no >voltage at the coil. Is this a sign of a bad ecu? 
Thanks >in advance for any help.
>Paulo
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 20:22:33 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list)
Subject: Re: '88' 3254is no spark
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>From Richard Vijeh
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>If the timing belt is broken he is going to have much
>more probelms than just no spark or voltage. You are
>guranteed to bend at least a few valves, if not all
>any time the t-belt breaks (or event slips a single
>tooth) on an M20.
>

I agree. When I replaced the timing belt in my M20, I got the belt off by
one tooth. When I went to turn the engine over the first two turns to seat
the belt I could only go 1/3 revolution in either direction before it was
clear that a valve and a piston were trying to share the same space. 

-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski                       Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED]                        Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 20:43:24 -0500
From: UUC Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Admin: Subject lines.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

All,

As per the charter of this list, please change your subject line when 
replying to digest messages.

"Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(XX messages)" is not an appropriate 
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Remember, these rules are here to create a better experience for everyone. 
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As a reminder, here is a link to the digest rules:

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Michael K Donohue
System Administrator
UUC Digest
http://www.uucdigest.com



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 21:01:03 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED],
   [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E30 325i Emmission Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Car is my middle daughter's, has failed emissions three times for 
Hydrocarbons and Oxides of Nitrogen. 150K 1987 325iS with auto.  Has two 
year old DEC cat from Steve D'G, passed tailpipe test two years ago, 
required to have dyno 240 second test now.

First:

I visually inspected it and replaced cap and rotor, changed oil.

HC 2.5541 vs 1.8 state standard
NOx 5.4891 vs 2.8 state standard     $29 test fee.

Paid to have it inspected by a shop and they said only needed injector 
cleaning, $190 for their inspection and "MotorVac."

HC 2.6948 vs 1.8 state standard
NOx 7.5185 vs 2.8 state standard     Waived test fee.

Paid to have it inspected by another shop and they replaced O2 sensor, 
spark plugs, air filter and adjusted the valves tighter than my 
adjustment. $408.11.

HC 2.1782 vs 1.8 state standard
NOx 4.6600 vs 2.8 state standard     $29.00 test fee.

Any recommendations gratefully considered (short of explosives!).

TIA,

Ed








------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 21:18:10 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 325i Emmission Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

What is the state limit for spending on a repair before you get waived?

Also, what are the measurements?  GPM, %, PPM?

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> I visually inspected it and replaced cap and rotor, changed oil.
> HC 2.5541 vs 1.8 state standard
> NOx 5.4891 vs 2.8 state standard     $29 test fee.
>Paid to have it inspected by a shop and they said only needed injector 
> cleaning, $190 for their inspection and "MotorVac."
> HC 2.6948 vs 1.8 state standard
> NOx 7.5185 vs 2.8 state standard     Waived test fee.
> Paid to have it inspected by another shop and they replaced O2 sensor, 
> spark plugs, air filter and adjusted the valves tighter than my 
> adjustment. $408.11.
> HC 2.1782 vs 1.8 state standard
> NOx 4.6600 vs 2.8 state standard     $29.00 test fee.
> Ed


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 21:36:56 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: KMS - Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 325i Emmission Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Measurements are in GPM, I don't know the dollar limits, but certainly 
they are less than what I have spent. I am unwilling to knowingly drive 
a poorly performing car, however, and am considering this next "fee 
free" test as validation of a correct repair.

Thanks,

Ed

KMS - Brett Anderson wrote:

>What is the state limit for spending on a repair before you get waived?
>
>Also, what are the measurements?  GPM, %, PPM?
>
>>I visually inspected it and replaced cap and rotor, changed oil.
>>HC 2.5541 vs 1.8 state standard
>>NOx 5.4891 vs 2.8 state standard     $29 test fee.
>>Paid to have it inspected by a shop and they said only needed injector 
>>cleaning, $190 for their inspection and "MotorVac."
>>HC 2.6948 vs 1.8 state standard
>>NOx 7.5185 vs 2.8 state standard     Waived test fee.
>>Paid to have it inspected by another shop and they replaced O2 sensor, 
>>spark plugs, air filter and adjusted the valves tighter than my 
>>adjustment. $408.11.
>>HC 2.1782 vs 1.8 state standard
>>NOx 4.6600 vs 2.8 state standard     $29.00 test fee.
>>Ed
>>    
>>
>
>  
>


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