The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 40 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) electrical issue Re: electrical issue Re: More on E30 fuel issues Re: E36 fuel issues (was E30) Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00 Re: E36 fuel issues (was E30) Re: <E30> Electrical Goofiness Re: Strange whining noise after hard braking Re: <E34> bad temp sensor? [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine 2000 528i Wheels/Tires For Sale BMW CCA School at the Nurburgring
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:21:47 -0500 From: "The Corbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmw digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gang: My M Coupe has suddenly started to do this intermittently after filling the tank. My clipped M3 does it as well. Is this a common fault, and if so is there a DIY fix or does this require some expertise? Thanks John Corbs ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 18:40:02 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Corbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "bmw digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 06:21 PM 12/1/03, The Corbs wrote: >My M Coupe has suddenly started to do this intermittently after filling the >tank. > >My clipped M3 does it as well. > >Is this a common fault, and if so is there a DIY fix or does this require >some expertise? It's becoming a fairly common problem, it seems. Either the fuel sender (left side of gas tank) or the fuel pump/sender combo (right side of tank) has gone bad (the float arm moves across a resistive area that tends to get worn out after repeated use). The Bentley manual indicates how to test for which unit is faulty. Basically you test the unit's resistance (full tank or near empty works best) - 10 ohms for empty, 250 ohms for full. Replace whichever unit tests out of spec. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - 137,000+ miles, third set of fuel senders 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - fuel pump changed as a "maintenance" item ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:40:02 -0500 From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gilbert, I switched to the cartridge style about a year or so ago. I didn't have any problems installing it, the instructions were clear enough. It has not been any worse to remove the cap vs the canister (ie, still a beotch). Keep in mind, however, my 88 iX has the oil cooler filter head that yours does not (right?) so it may be easier for you. There is an O-ring that comes with each new filter to be used on the cap. Just lightly coat with oil and install. I've never had a leak. I believe the spec for the cap is 24 Nm (which, if I remember right) is around 18 ft-lb). I do end up using my Sears strap wrench (metal band, strictly for oil filters) for removal, but that's because the exhaust m-fold and every other engine bit that my arms invariably touch are still hot and I don't want to spend a lot of time getting 2nd degree burns on said arms. It would not be easier to remove the canister from the engine every time. Andy 88 iX >>>>>I was wondering if there was a failproof way to attach the main body of it so I would only have to remove/replace the cap for following oil changes? Is there a special tool? Do people use strap wrenches to hold the body in place while removing the cap? Is it easier to just remove the whole canister and remove the catridge from it on a bench top? Let me know your tips/secrets. Thanks. Gilbert ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 21:39:51 -0500 From: "Larry T" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: electrical issue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, Recently, during our 2 day rainstorm out here (DC area), I ran through a puddle, with my driver's front tire. It was a deep puddle, to say the least. When it happened, my battery warning light (the one to the left of the oil pressure warning light) came on for a few seconds, then went away. This also happened one other time, when I sprayed water down onto my underpanel, to clean up after a coolant leak. I sprayed with a nozzle that allowed a small jet, so it wasn't a complete soaking. I was just wondering if this was a loose connector, frayed wire, or water soaking the alternator. Thanks in advance, this list is always so good for information! Almost forgot, the car is an E36 M3 Coupe (1998 if it matters) Larry _________________________________________________________________ Groove on the latest from the hot new rock groups! Get downloads, videos, and more here. http://special.msn.com/entertainment/wiredformusic.armx ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:51:32 -0500 From: "Langsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Larry T" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: electrical issue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Water on the serpantine belt causes it to slip on the alternator pulley, which in turn reduces charging output . . hence turning on alt. light Hint, don't drive thru deep puddles ;-) Any deeper and your engine will take a big gulp, you won't like anyones reply then! Mario L. www.VSR1.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry T" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 9:39 PM Subject: [UUC] electrical issue > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Group, > > Recently, during our 2 day rainstorm out here (DC area), I ran through a > puddle, with my driver's front tire. It was a deep puddle, to say the least. > When it happened, my battery warning light (the one to the left of the oil > pressure warning light) came on for a few seconds, then went away. This also > happened one other time, when I sprayed water down onto my underpanel, to > clean up after a coolant leak. I sprayed with a nozzle that allowed a small > jet, so it wasn't a complete soaking. > > I was just wondering if this was a loose connector, frayed wire, or water > soaking the alternator. Thanks in advance, this list is always so good for > information! Almost forgot, the car is an E36 M3 Coupe (1998 if it matters) > > Larry > > _________________________________________________________________ > Groove on the latest from the hot new rock groups! Get downloads, videos, > and more here. http://special.msn.com/entertainment/wiredformusic.armx > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 22:59:37 -0500 From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "bmw list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: More on E30 fuel issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Joe, Sounds like an intermittent ground and/or an issue with the fuel pump connector also might be the culprit. When something simple like cleaning a relay "seems" to fix it, you may find yourself back in the same situation until you find the real fault. Have you picked up the rear seat to access the fuel pump yet? I'm assuming of course that the E30 has the fuel pump access in the same place as the E36, which it may not. Someone more familiar with E30s may be able to give you the specifics, but this sounds EXACTLY like what happened to my E36. Check all of the grounds that feed the relays too - this was my cuprit and took some digging to find the grounding nut with 1 cm of space from the bottom of the post!! Same symptoms exactly... Regards, Mike -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 7:00 PM To: bmw list Subject: [UUC] More on E30 fuel issues Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks to everyone who has been helping me. I think the car just wants attention. I cleaned the blades on the main relay and the fuel pump relay, put them back and now the car seems to run fine. I do get a bit of a gas smell in the car, so I am going to go look at the hoses on the tank tomorrow, but it still runs. I got a ride home from a coworker tonight (as I don't trust it yet) and I am going to go get new relays tomorrow. It is the simple and cheap place to start. With the car running I can hear the main pump running but I have to put my ear down by the rocker panel. I assume that this is a normal level of buzzy noise. I couldn't hear the in tank pump but I didn't have the cover open or the sound deadening out of the way. I hate strange intermittent problems. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 23:14:30 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 fuel issues (was E30) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 12/1/03 5:36 PM, Marco Romani at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Another interesting thing is that hitting the fuel tank right below the with > the palm of your hand (hard 2-3 times) most of the time get the fuel pump to > start. Well, that used to work for me with old TV sets! Neil - didn't know BMWs had tubes 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 11:55:36 -0500 From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Keep in mind that this is for reference only!!! This car has already sold! No dings, no modifications, all original. Dealer serviced with only 66,000 original miles. The very first one delivered in this area in 1995 was recently traded back into the dealer on a newer model and only brought $7250.00! For a straight, clean, never damaged or touched up 95' M3!!! I drove this car when it only had 2 miles on it and was the last to see it before it resold. Flawless, but more than I wanted to pay for a 95' model M3, that I know is about to need everything that ALL of the 95's need. Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 20:33:01 -0800 From: "Sumant Jayaraman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 fuel issues (was E30) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The Bentley helps tremendously by leaving out a crucial phrase in the debugging procedure, It goes something like: "With the ignition key, (missing descriptor) check for ground on pins such and such of fuel pump relay." So I tried and tried using the key between my tongue and +12V... Sumant 94 325, new fuel pump, new burn spot on tongue. PS: A reliable test is to measure the armature resistance of the fuel pump between the fuel pump fuse and chassis. I think a good one reads something like 10 or 20ohms. Neil wrote: >Which brings up an interesting point about the E36 fuel pump circuit. One >might imagine that when the ignition is in the run position, the fuel pump >is energized. But it just ain't so. >Instead the pump is always energized when the ignition is in the *start* >position, but in the run position only when the engine is actually running. >When you turn the key to run, only a momentary pulse of power is sent to the >pump. This is controlled by the DME. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:08:39 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Electrical Goofiness Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Kevin, since I disconnected the antenna, the electrical drain has stopped entirely and everything is fine. Besides the antenna electronics being messed up, the mast itself is also no good, so I plan to buy a complete new antenna. I would have bought it Saturday, but Double 02 Salvage was closed for the holiday weekend. Even if the antenna were fine, I still need to visit the dealer to get the radio code. So that is how I plan to spend next Saturday morning. So thanks for the advice, but I don't think the antenna was worth reparing anyway. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 11:51:00 -0800 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: <E30> Electrical Goofiness >Message-ID: <OFD146B332.21009CAE-ON88256DEF.006C9F27->[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Scott, > >The power regulator for the antenna motor can fail and cause the excessive >drain that you're experiencing. I had exactly the same problem and replaced >on of the cheap electrolytic caps on the regulator board and the problem >was solved. When electrolytics fail they invariably short. Some will show >leakage or scorching or a bloated appearance when failed. >Be sure to mark the orientation if you decide to replace it. I also used >mil-spec from Digikey. > >-Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:16:21 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Strange whining noise after hard braking Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, my guess is that you have a bad brake vacuum booster, or else the hose supplying vacuum to the booster has a leak. To test, disconnect the vacuum hose from the mainfold (or whatever the source is on the S50 motor) and plug up the opening. Then drive the car and see if the noises have gone away. WARNING: YOU WILL NOT HAVE POWER BRAKES! Stay out of traffic and leave lots of room for braking. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 20:41:16 -0500 >From: "M540" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Strange whining noise after hard braking >Message-ID: ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >All: > >My wife's 1995 M3 has developed a strange problem that I was hoping to poll >the list's collective wisdom on. Her car sounds/drives normally after >starting until the driver gets on the brakes relatively hard (not ABS hard, >just firmer than a normal stop). After this a quiet whining sound >(seemingly from the engine bay) appears and does not go away until the car >has been turned off and restarted. The sound seems to vary with engine >speed and can best be described as a whine similar to a small electric >motor. When the clutch is depressed while rolling the whine disappears but >is seemingly replaced by a groaning sound that may be coming from the >steering wheel/column (unrelated?). > >I know this is a bizarre set of descriptions but if it rings any bells or if >you have any suggestions on where to start I'd really appreciate the help. > >Thanks in advance! > >Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 05:07:51 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E34> bad temp sensor? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jeff sez: "I'm guessing it's been raining in Bahstan, huh? This seems to happen when water gets into the plug socket near the sensor itself. The sensor's on the drivers side (if I recall) under the front bumper. Remove the access panel and clean out the little plug right behind the sender. Then, give it a day or so to "recover". (Don't ask me why you need to do that last step...). Then, if you figure out why it shows "535" when it FUBARs, please explain it to the rest of us. Jeff 90 535i" Well, the temp reading is back to normal, or, in this case, colder than I wish it was in beantown. Guess it *was* a joke from Bavaria, set to run on 12/1/2003 by those yuksters down theah. Or else Jeff is right and there was some moisture in the connection. Jon<---almost late to work due to cars banged up all over the place on the Masspike this AM. Sudden temperature drop and snow squalls between 6:30 and 7 AM = black ice on the bridges and overpasses. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 09:27:16 -0800 From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thoughts on this appreciated: Background: Swapped motors in my 90 535i 5 speed. "New" engine consisted of a used short block and a fresh rebuilt, ported head with different cam. Cam has minimal overlap to pass emissions; higher lift and longer duration mostly. Engine's been installed for about 7k miles now. Issue is that engine is burning oil at rate of around 1qt for every 750 miles or so. Compression on engine is about 155 lbs per hole (warm test, throttle body open). Have not done leakdown test at this time, planned but need to acquire the tool. Spark plugs are showing lots of oil coverage - black buildup on the electrode. Build up is primarily on one side of the electrode - intake valve side. Pulled the intake manifold this weekend. All 6 intake ports and several inches up the intake manifold were covered in a even coat of very clean engine oil. If you swiped your finger on the port, you would have a noticeable buildup on your finger. Surface felt lubricated. Very easy to see the plug electrode facing the valve was covered with a black, shiny coating. Throttle body and plenum do NOT have the same oil coat - clean and dry. Vacuum gauge test on manifold shows even reading at idle - no needle fluctuation. 17 inches vacuum. No real engine smoke out tailpipe on cold start after sitting. So...here's my questions: - is it normal to have the observed oil covering in the intake ports and manifold? And where is the oil coming from? It seems to me that intake valve guides are the most obvious suspect. The vacuum test suggests they are OK Could the new seals cover up vacuum fluctuations? If the valve guides are good, then it must be coming past the rings, right? Can clean oil blow up from the cylinder into the manifold? If blow-by, I think you would expect to see oil on the throttle body and in the plenum as well as the vent connects before the throttle body. - if the rings are bad, can you have the oil buildup on the plugs on one side of the plug as observed? Or, is this a sign that the oil is entering via the intake valve? Yes yes, I know I need to do a leakdown test. But any thoughts at this time are most appreciated. Jeff 90 535i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 10:07:28 -0800 From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 2000 528i Wheels/Tires For Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a set of near perfect 16" wide spoke basket weave wheels with OE Continental tires for sale. These came off a 2000 528i and have about 40k miles on them. I believe they are 16 x 7, silver painted. No curb rash. With center caps, lug nuts and set of centering rings necessary for earlier 5, 6, and 7 series cars. These are terrific looking wheels. Two tires are at the wear bars and two have fair rubber to last maybe 5 - 10k miles, Tires are Continental EcoTouring 225-55-16. I can have the tires taken off to make shipping easier on the wallet. Location is San Diego, CA 91977 (Spring Valley) $500 best offer plus shipping or pick up if local. Mike Holbrook Spring Valley, CA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 12:49:25 -0600 From: "Tolsdorf, Geoffrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bmwuucdigest (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: BMW CCA School at the Nurburgring Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello All, Does anyone have any information on the CCA School at the Nurburgring in 2004, specifically the dates the event is scheduled to be held? I find myself in the happy circumstance of possibly being able to go and would like to gather as much information as possible. I'd also love to hear any comments from those who have attended the school - both positive and negative. Any tips on logistics would also be appreciated. Thanks for any and all information. Cheers, Geoff '69 '02 '89 M3 '95 M3 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
