The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 1 : Issue 41 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
  Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
  Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
  Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
  <FS> E36 325i parts
  Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
  Re: <OT>Interesting Site
  Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
  RE:  Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
  Does Shell Gas contain ethanol?
  Re: Does Shell Gas contain ethanol?
  Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
  Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00
  Re: Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00
  [E36 and E46] Seeking informed opinions E36 M3 vs E46 (M3 and non-M3)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 11:13:48 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

John, if you have the ignition key turned to any position besides "off"
while filling up, you can get incorrect gas gauge readings.  The fix is to
keep the key off when filling up.  If the key was off when you filled up,
then ignore this and do what Jim Bassett said.

BTW, who clipped your M3 and how did it get clipped?  I hope no one was
hurt.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:21:47 -0500
>From: "The Corbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "bmw digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Gang:
>
>My M Coupe has suddenly started to do this intermittently after filling
the
>tank.
>
>My clipped M3 does it as well.
>
>Is this a common fault, and if so is there a DIY fix or does this require
>some expertise?
>
>Thanks
>
>John Corbs



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 14:45:50 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: JSN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Does the M30 have a PCV valve plumbed between the crankcase and the intake?  If so the 
valve may need replacement.

Brian
'94 325ic

-----Original Message-----
From: JSN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Dec 2, 2003 12:27 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine

<snipped>
- is it normal to have the observed oil covering in the intake ports and
manifold?  And where is the oil coming from?  



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 16:47:00 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Jeff,

If you're real sure about the cams, I'd say reversion is not a likely
cause. Unless it's excessive it could be normal oil from the crankcase
ventilation. Check out the ventilation valve, it might be open all the time
and giving you a lot of vapor at idle.

-Kevin


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 10:03:51 -0800
From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Summarizing some off-forum conversations; here's what's been suggested so
far:

- it's not normal to have clean engine oil in the intake ports; something's
wrong.
- clean oil won't 'blow up' from the cylinders, it's likely coming in the
via the intake valves
- several suggestions to check the PCV valve on the car; the M30 doesn't
have one.
- suggestion to verify that valve stem seals were installed in the head;
yes - they are.  Good idea.
- suggestion to check the intake valve guide seals.  One suggestion was to
lightly pressurize the intake port and inspect for air leaks on the engine
side.  Another suggestion was to use a dial gauge on the valve stem and
check the side play (reportedly the recommended BMW procedure).

Any other thoughts?

thx!

Jeff
90 535i

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 9:27 AM
Subject: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine


> Thoughts on this appreciated:
>
> Background:  Swapped motors in my 90 535i 5 speed.  "New" engine consisted
> of a used short block and a fresh rebuilt, ported head with different cam.
> Cam has minimal overlap to pass emissions; higher lift and longer duration
> mostly.   Engine's been installed for about 7k miles now.
>
> Issue is that engine is burning oil at rate of around 1qt for every 750
> miles or so.
>
> Compression on engine is about 155 lbs per hole (warm test, throttle body
> open).  Have not done leakdown test at this time, planned but need to
> acquire the tool.  Spark plugs are showing lots of oil coverage - black
> buildup on the electrode.  Build up is primarily on one side of the
> electrode - intake valve side.
>
> Pulled the intake manifold this weekend.  All 6 intake ports and several
> inches up the intake manifold were covered in a even coat of very clean
> engine oil.  If you swiped your finger on the port, you would have a
> noticeable buildup on your finger.  Surface felt lubricated.  Very easy to
> see the plug electrode facing the valve was covered with a black, shiny
> coating. Throttle body and plenum do NOT have the same oil coat - clean
and
> dry.
>
> Vacuum gauge test on manifold shows even reading at idle - no needle
> fluctuation.  17 inches vacuum.  No real engine smoke out tailpipe on cold
> start after sitting.
>
> So...here's my questions:
>
> - is it normal to have the observed oil covering in the intake ports and
> manifold?  And where is the oil coming from?  It seems to me that intake
> valve guides are the most obvious suspect.  The vacuum test suggests they
> are OK  Could the new seals cover up vacuum fluctuations?  If the valve
> guides are good, then it must be coming past the rings, right?  Can clean
> oil blow up from the cylinder into the manifold?  If blow-by, I think you
> would expect to see oil on the throttle body and in the plenum as well as
> the vent connects before the throttle body.
>
> - if the rings are bad, can you have the oil buildup on the plugs on one
> side of the plug as observed?  Or, is this a sign that the oil is entering
> via the intake valve?
>
> Yes yes, I know I need to do a leakdown test.  But any thoughts at this
time
> are most appreciated.
>
> Jeff
> 90 535i
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 15:24:40 -0500
From: Rob Verenna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: <FS> E36 325i parts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Trying to clean up the basement a bit and I still have this stuff around 
from the race car build.  I'll take best offer on any of it, just to get 
it out of the house.  I can box and drop anything off for UPS at no 
charge, buyer covers actual shipping costs.  I can email pictures on 
request.

Thanks!

- rob

All parts are from a 1994 325i (four door).

* Muffler - factory, good shape, no rust holes, very little rust
* Passenger Seat - Sport package seat, dove gray, full power
* Rear Seat - bench, non-folding, two pieces (seat back and seat bottom)
* Rear Carpet piece - gray, 6" tall piece from floor to seat bottom
* Rear decklid / parcel shelf - has all speaker covers intact
* Rear door panels - two-tone light and dark gray
* Driver's door window glass - non-tinted, perfect shape
* Stock airbox
* Factory plastic dead pedal
* Factory plastic engine cover pieces
* Factory hood insulation - single foam piece
* Interior overhead light assembly
* Center console surround piece (piece that covers transmission tunnel; 
gear shift goes through the middle of it)
* Factory Radiator cover - top plastic piece
* Misc. plastic trim pieces


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 17:20:59 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] oil in intake manifold, M30 engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My guess is a lack of intake valve seals.  Fresh oil would not come from the
cylinder.
Gary Derian

>
> Thoughts on this appreciated:
>
> Background:  Swapped motors in my 90 535i 5 speed.  "New" engine consisted
> of a used short block and a fresh rebuilt, ported head with different cam.
> Cam has minimal overlap to pass emissions; higher lift and longer duration
> mostly.   Engine's been installed for about 7k miles now.
>
> Issue is that engine is burning oil at rate of around 1qt for every 750
> miles or so.
>
> Compression on engine is about 155 lbs per hole (warm test, throttle body
> open).  Have not done leakdown test at this time, planned but need to
> acquire the tool.  Spark plugs are showing lots of oil coverage - black
> buildup on the electrode.  Build up is primarily on one side of the
> electrode - intake valve side.
>
> Pulled the intake manifold this weekend.  All 6 intake ports and several
> inches up the intake manifold were covered in a even coat of very clean
> engine oil.  If you swiped your finger on the port, you would have a
> noticeable buildup on your finger.  Surface felt lubricated.  Very easy to
> see the plug electrode facing the valve was covered with a black, shiny
> coating. Throttle body and plenum do NOT have the same oil coat - clean
and
> dry.
>
> Vacuum gauge test on manifold shows even reading at idle - no needle
> fluctuation.  17 inches vacuum.  No real engine smoke out tailpipe on cold
> start after sitting.
>
> So...here's my questions:
>
> - is it normal to have the observed oil covering in the intake ports and
> manifold?  And where is the oil coming from?  It seems to me that intake
> valve guides are the most obvious suspect.  The vacuum test suggests they
> are OK  Could the new seals cover up vacuum fluctuations?  If the valve
> guides are good, then it must be coming past the rings, right?  Can clean
> oil blow up from the cylinder into the manifold?  If blow-by, I think you
> would expect to see oil on the throttle body and in the plenum as well as
> the vent connects before the throttle body.
>
> - if the rings are bad, can you have the oil buildup on the plugs on one
> side of the plug as observed?  Or, is this a sign that the oil is entering
> via the intake valve?
>
> Yes yes, I know I need to do a leakdown test.  But any thoughts at this
time
> are most appreciated.
>
> Jeff
> 90 535i
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 14:48:56 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <OT>Interesting Site
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

For those with GM cars or trucks as a second vehicle here's something I ran
across that is interesting:

http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/images/issues/archive.html

-Kevin


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 18:17:52 -0500
From: "Bailey Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

John,

The cause of the problem is most likely corrosion on the contacts of one
or both of the sending units. The senders on my Club Sport were replaced
under warranty but the problem returned. The permanent solution for the
problem is to replace the senders with the improved BMW units which have
gold plated contacts which will not corrode. That said, a cheap but
temporary fix can usually be had by adding a bottle of Techron or
Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner at your next fill up. In my case I
have found that if I use Marathon Premium the problem goes away after
one or two tanks. However, if I switch back to BP, Chevron, or Shell the
problem soon returns. YMMV of course, as gasoline composition varies
from season to season as well as from region to region. FWIW,  my area
(Louisville, KY) had one of the highest failure rates for the V8 Nikasil
engine blocks-due primarily to the high sulfur content of the local
gasoline.

Bailey Taylor
1995 318ti Club Sport
1997 528iA
1999 Wrangler Sahara Light Campaign Assault Vehicle



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 18:08:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE:  Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yeah this is a common problem with the M Coupe.  As
Bailey said it is the sender unit.  The fix is the
gold plated one, and the dealerships should know about
that in one of their bulletins.  But there is the
downside to the fix.  They have to cut out a square in
your carpet behind the passenger seat (and I heard it
is noticeable).

Most M Coupe owners found that using Chevron fixes the
problem.  Not for me.  I found the Shell ("now w/
ethanol") works for me.  And fuel injector cleaner
helps a bit more too.  

Third method (I never tried) is the fuse method. 
Remove fuse #31 and try to start the car.  Then
replace the fuse and start the car and it's fixed.  If
fuse #31 doesn't do the trick try fuse #23, and dod
the same thing.  Here's a link about that. 
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/z3-coupe/forum.php?postid=251124
I don't get how and why this should work.  That's why
I haven't tried this method yet.  

Good Luck.

Mike

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 21:37:09 -0500
From: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Does Shell Gas contain ethanol?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mike Hsu said:

> problem.  Not for me.  I found the Shell ("now w/
> ethanol") works for me.  And fuel injector cleaner
> helps a bit more too.
>


Does Shell gas contain ethanol?  I know that a few years ago it did not.  At
that time, gas stations were required (here in Ohio) to have a sticker on
the side of the gas pump that indicated if the gas contained ethanol.

I believe that the laws have changed and they do not have to show if the gas
contains ethanol.

Thanks,

Dean




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 20:11:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Dean Boucouras <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Does Shell Gas contain ethanol?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi Dean,

I believe here in California, the gas is required to
have MTBE or ethanol (probably depending where in
california). It's an emissions thing. I'm not sure if
it is required to label the pumps, but I have noticed
all the pumps I've used labels MTBE being added to the
fuel. Other californians on this list probably keeps
up w/ this kind of thing.   I think my local shell has
the big banner advertising ethanol because it is more
environmentally friendly. People are finding out MTBE
is getting into the drinking water or killing the
fishes or both (something like that).  So ethanol is
the (more expensive) alternative to MTBE.

Mike


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 11:07:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Showing Empty when full
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

On Tue, 2 Dec 2003, Bailey Taylor wrote:
> The cause of the problem is most likely corrosion on the contacts of one
> or both of the sending units. The senders on my Club Sport were replaced
> under warranty but the problem returned. The permanent solution for the
> problem is to replace the senders with the improved BMW units which have
> gold plated contacts which will not corrode. That said, a cheap but
> temporary fix can usually be had by adding a bottle of Techron or
> Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner at your next fill up. In my case I
> have found that if I use Marathon Premium the problem goes away after
> one or two tanks. However, if I switch back to BP, Chevron, or Shell the
> problem soon returns. YMMV of course, as gasoline composition varies
> from season to season as well as from region to region. FWIW, my area
> (Louisville, KY) had one of the highest failure rates for the V8 Nikasil
> engine blocks-due primarily to the high sulfur content of the local
> gasoline.

I've been following this discussion with some interest since our '93 325is
has a similar problem...  The guage doesn't register a full tank
correctly, stopping at about 3/4 to 7/8 full (despite having enough gas in
the tank that I can see the level in the filler neck).  However, once the
gas level gets to that point, it goes down correctly.  At near indicated
empty, the guage seems to be accurate, as a fillup takes 16+ gallons and
the listed capacity for the tank is ~17 gallons.

Would this likely be the same problem?

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 20:42:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Kirk:

In your place, I'd have paid the $7250 and flipped it
to someone for a small profit.  I suspect you'd have
had more _thankful_ buyers than cars for that price. 
I've never really wanted an E36 M3, but if I did I'd
have jumped at it for that price.

Neil Deshpande

***

"Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Keep in mind that this is for reference only!!!  This
car has already sold!  No dings, no modifications, all
original.  Dealer serviced with only 66,000
original miles.  The very first one delivered in this
area in 1995 was recently traded back into the dealer
on a newer model and only brought $7250.00!  For a
straight, clean, never damaged or touched up 95' M3!!!
 I drove this car when it only had 2 miles on it and
was the last to see it before it resold.  Flawless,
but more than I wanted to pay for a 95' model M3, that
I know is about to need everything that ALL of the
95's need.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 10:23:46 -0500
From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I've never wanted one either.  Never really saw the fascination.  Smoother
than the 69' 1602 that I have, but not anywhere nearly as fast or handle as
well.  The 95' was not the year to have anyway, first year glitches and
problems.  I have had the head off of at least 20 95' models for faulty
valve spring retainers.
I would not sell a 95' model to ANY of my clients with a good conscience, no
matter how good a deal.

Kirk A. Gilchrist
EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair
8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125
[EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 11:58:48 -0600
From: "Gary Vetick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [E36 and E46] Seeking informed opinions E36 M3 vs E46 (M3 and non-M3)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

digest members:

i'm comtemplating the purchase of another pre-owned vehicle and am seeking
informed opinions about the relative merits/desirability of an E36 M3 vs an
E46 either M3 or non-M3.

first the background information:

* the car will be a daily driver and will not be stored in winters (there's
already an E30 M3 in storage)
* the car will be driven approximately 10,000 to 12,000 miles per year with
40% being local and 60% being long-distance trips to client locations.
* i assume i could purchase a very nice, late model, low mileage E36 M3 for
$20,000 to $25,000.  it would include all the available safety equipment
available in 1998 and 1999 (i.e. front and side impact airbags).
* i assume i could purchase a very nice 2001 or 2002 E46 M3 for $38,000 to
$45,000.  it would include the same safety equipment as above, plus the head
protection system.
* i would feel much better about driving a $25,000 vehicle in the snow and
salt than i would about a $45,000 vehicle.
* 333 hp is more than i need.

so my questions come down to:

* is the E46 M3 80% better than the E36 M3 and does it therefore justify the
additional cost?
* is it better to stay away from the earlier generation of electronics in
the E36 and go with the E46?
* if the E46 M3 is more car than i need, could i find happiness with the E46
325 or 330?

any input is greatly appreciated.

gary vetick
omaha, nebraska


------------------------------

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