The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 43 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: '95 slam intermittent shimmy (even) with new tires? Re: intermittent shimmy (even) with new tires? I want a 1995 M3 in White was (Re: Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00) Excellent article on M mobiles Re: [E36 and E46] Seeking informed opinions E36 M3 vs Re: [E36 vs E46] Controversy over E46 rear jack point Re: [E36 and E46] Seeking informed opinions Re: Does Shell Gas contain ethanol? <E36> M52 air pump Re: [EMAIL PROTECTED] E28 Heater Core ?? Diff recommendations for my 325e 3.46 or 3.73 FS.. 17" Wheels and Brake Calipers.. E28 Re: Diff recommendations for my 325e 3.46 or 3.73
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 19:32:37 -0500 From: "Rick Cardinal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Neil Deshpande'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'Eurowerks'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: '95 slam Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil, I don't think I'm being sensitive at all. Notice the ":-)" in my post. Just some friendly banter. I took no offense to you or Kirk's posts. Just offering a different viewpoint. The fact that a dealer would only pay $7250 says more about the integrity of the dealer,(or savvy, depends which side of the desk you are on), and the desperation of the seller, it does nothing to set a value for my car. I don't blame a dealer for taking advantage of a fool...leaves more room for bargaining when I walk in. I think Kirk's comments below, are maybe easy to take the wrong way as written. I have never driven a '69 1602, but I have a hard time believing they were faster and handled better than an e36M3. There again every one is entitled to their opinion, and since I have never driven one, mine isn't worth much. I have driven many an '02, and yes they are fun, and yes the enthusiasts believe they are the only true BMW, but even my kid knows it's apples and oranges. I would kill one on the track, and have. (My 13 year old son and I are restoring one as his first car, so don't get me wrong). He can't wait till he can get an M3. Of course he's already picked out his first 10 cars...;-) For Kirk to say he couldn't recommend a '95 to ANY of his clients...well, that's his right. He did reply off the list, and said it's the driver's that cause most of the problems he sees, not the car. This I could not agree with more. Just look at some of the forums where some 16 year old is talking out his ass about the mods he's going to do to his new e36M3. Makes my skin crawl. I wish those guys would go buy a Honda and leave the BMW's to us old farts. >>>>Smoother than the 69' 1602 that I have, but not anywhere nearly as fast or handle as well. The 95' was not the year to have anyway, first year glitches and problems. I have had the head off of at least 20 95' models for faulty valve spring retainers. I would not sell a 95' model to ANY of my clients with a good conscience, no matter how good a deal<<<<< People ask me every day how I like "that car". I tell them it makes the 2 hours daily of Atlanta traffic almost a delight. If only for short, very quick bursts. Cheers gents! Rick > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neil Deshpande > Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 3:07 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Eurowerks; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: '95 slam > > > Rick: > > It is possible you're being over-sensitive. All I > said was _I_ never wanted one and I even mentioned > that there would be many people on the list that would > thankfully take one at $7250+small profit for Kirk. > How much more sensitive do I have to be before I bug > someone? BTW, I think the M3 problems are minor. My > not wanting one has nothing to do with such practical > issues. It is not like we're talking about a Honda. > There cars are supposed to appeal to our hearts first. > > Reminds me of a George Bernard Shaw incident. When > Pygmalion (My Fair Lady) was being staged in London, a > lady in the back got up and objected to the male > chauvinism in the play and ranted about how it should > not be staged at all. Shaw was in the audience as > well. He said, "Madam, I agree with you, but what can > we do, we're in the minority!" > > I drive an old M5 (92), which is another oft-maligned > car. Maintenance is too much, too heavy, not really > that powerful, crappy steering, crappy off-idle > in-traffic driving, you name it. > > It _increases_ my enjoyment of the car to know there > is yet another person who does not want it or finds it > hard to drive smoothly. In fact, I was once told at a > dinner party that I drove a fake M5, having been > tricked by the PO and badge, as there were none before > the E39 M5. I agreed with the fellow even as my then > fiancee tried to defend the car! Left the person > who'd made the comment with a mild feeling of having > been the Fool. Sooo amusing! <grin>. > > Neil Deshpande > > P.S. It _could_ be the gas. Have a Honda-driving > M3-immune friend sniff around for you. :-). > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 17:33:10 -0800 From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: intermittent shimmy (even) with new tires? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just had a set of new BS RE750 tires installed on my E36 coupe, but something doesn't seem right. Despite repeated attempts at rebalancing by two different shops (in the same chain), they can't seem to get rid of a slight shimmy in the steering wheel at highway speeds, particularly in the 65-75 sweet spot. Slower or faster is no problem, and I think I've isolated it to one pair of tires by rotating front to back. This shop doesn't use the GSP9700 balancing machines, so they can't take road force measurements. All front suspension parts, aside from tie rods, are relatively fresh. There weren't any problems with the old tires that were just replaced; the only variable that has changed is the tires. What I can't figure out is why the shimmy seems to come and go. It may be fine on one stretch of road, but throw in a few turns, and it comes back strongest in mid bend, the goes away again, maybe as the phase of the wheels change. Or perhaps old tie rods are amplifying a slight balance problem? How much vibration is officially/typically acceptable anyway? Any suggestions? I can probably make use of the 30 day satisfaction guarantee, but I'm otherwise happy with the tires so far. Herman ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 21:08:59 -0500 From: "Langsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Herman Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: intermittent shimmy (even) with new tires? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There's a few things that can cause this . . Shocks, are yours original?? Our experience shows the E36 shocks as installed by the factory are trash after 50K Tie rod ends, Absolute ZERO wear, any clearance here will cause problems. Alignment , correct with proper weighting of car!!! rear control arm bushings, if these are original, replace, these go soft and don't show tears or cracks. Tire pressures may need very minor adjustments, play with this. Also, inspect the left side of the steering rack, we have found numerous racks recently that are worn on this end, and don't leak! Extend the rack to the left, attempt to move rack by grabbing boot and moving forward and back. Mario L. www.VSR1.com Vintage Sports & Racing, LLC 3 Robinson Rd. Bow, NH 03304 603-228-2888 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Herman Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 8:33 PM Subject: [UUC] intermittent shimmy (even) with new tires? > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > I just had a set of new BS RE750 tires installed on my E36 coupe, but > something doesn't seem right. > > Despite repeated attempts at rebalancing by two different shops (in > the same chain), they can't seem to get rid of a slight shimmy in the > steering wheel at highway speeds, particularly in the 65-75 sweet > spot. Slower or faster is no problem, and I think I've isolated it > to one pair of tires by rotating front to back. This shop doesn't > use the GSP9700 balancing machines, so they can't take road force > measurements. > > All front suspension parts, aside from tie rods, are relatively > fresh. There weren't any problems with the old tires that were just > replaced; the only variable that has changed is the tires. > > What I can't figure out is why the shimmy seems to come and go. It > may be fine on one stretch of road, but throw in a few turns, and it > comes back strongest in mid bend, the goes away again, maybe as the > phase of the wheels change. Or perhaps old tie rods are amplifying a > slight balance problem? How much vibration is officially/typically > acceptable anyway? > > Any suggestions? I can probably make use of the 30 day satisfaction > guarantee, but I'm otherwise happy with the tires so far. > > Herman > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 13:44:01 -0800 From: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: I want a 1995 M3 in White was (Re: Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 02:33 PM 12/3/2003 -0500, Robert Jackowitz wrote: >Actually, many agree that the late 1995 model year production were the best. >BMW fixed the valve-spring retainer issue in August 1995, I think. >The OBD1 3.0 liter engines were the most tunable with their larger intake >rails. Which is exactly what I am looking for. After putting 70K miles on my 4/95 production '95 M3 (sold to a list member) and 20K miles on my 6/96 production '96 M3 (which my wife bought new), I am going back to a '95 M3. I am looking for 1995 M3 with the following color combination: Alpine White Black Interior If it isn't that color scheme, then I am not interested. I would also like the car to have a: Cloth Interior Non-sunroof 1/95 production date or later No luxury package Other options don't really matter I do not want a M3 Lightweight. However, I know that combination is fairly rare, so I am willing to be flexible. Excellent condition, low miles, completely stock, and original owner are all pluses. If you refer me to the car that matches my description and I purchase it, I will pay you $250. I have already seached roadfly, autotrader, roundel, and cars.com for several months. I am just hoping someone knows of car like this sitting in someone's garage that would be willing to sell. I am located in the SF Bay Area, but I am willing to travel for the right car. Thanks, -- Rex Tener [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 21:52:58 -0500 From: "Chris Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Excellent article on M mobiles Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Apologies if this has been posted already but I have not seen it. Pulled from another list. An article in Top Gear which compares every M car ever made. Sorry for the long URL.... http://www.e46toronto.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=other&Number=11173&p age=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 Rgds, Chris Whitney no M car ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 18:53:03 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Gary Vetick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36 and E46] Seeking informed opinions E36 M3 vs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Unless you just want the status of an M car, sounds like the E46 non-M > would be the right car for you. My 330iPP is the best of both worlds -- just as quick as a luxo-M3 sedan but more comfortable, smoother ride, a better stereo, and much better looks. My money would be on another 330 over an E36 m3 for a street car. That said, I probably wouldn't give up my '95 M3 as a track car. -p ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 19:33:00 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36 vs E46] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dennis, "I just sold my 2201 330i a few weeks ago, it would have been perfect ...." Wowza, did you trade it in for a shuttle pod? : ^ ) -Kevin Hopeless Star Trek fan. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 22:34:56 -0500 From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Controversy over E46 rear jack point Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Help! Can someone identify the correct rear jack point for the E46 3-Series? If you read the three links below, you'll see there is a ton of confusion but no agreed-upon answer: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42371 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43752 http://teamdfl.com/events/brakefest/ (page 3 & 4 for rear jack) I've always jacked the rear of the car up using the rear subframe crossmember as shown in the first link above (probably used it a hundred times on my previous E46 323i). However, the second link recommends using a point further forward of the subframe crossmember (looks like a driveshaft collar of some sort), and the third link shows them jacking from the rear differential. So I'm confused, as usual. Does anyone know for sure the correct and safe way to do it? TIA, Steve 2004 330i ZHP ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 19:39:15 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36 and E46] Seeking informed opinions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris says: "On the other hand, BMWs handle so well, the heated mirrors/seats/washers make winter life so much nicer, and *every* corner can reward you with tail out fun ;)" Hey Chris you Canadians really know how to give a good mooning huh? Sorry, must be the season. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 20:55:20 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Does Shell Gas contain ethanol? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just to clarify, California law requires that gasolines include an oxygenate. MTBE and ethanol are oxygenates. As Mike said, MTBE has contaminated many ground water sources and cannot be cleaned up. It is suspected of being a carcinogen. When Davis was still Governor (since recalled and replaced by the Governator), he signed an order requiring that MTBE be phased out. The deadline passed but was extended, supposedly because the gas companies cannot generate enough ethanol to replace all the MTBE right away. So for now, some California stations sell gas with MTBE, and some sell gas with ethanol. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 20:11:05 -0800 (PST) >From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: Dean Boucouras <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: Does Shell Gas contain ethanol? >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Hi Dean, > >I believe here in California, the gas is required to >have MTBE or ethanol (probably depending where in >california). It's an emissions thing. I'm not sure if >it is required to label the pumps, but I have noticed >all the pumps I've used labels MTBE being added to the >fuel. Other californians on this list probably keeps >up w/ this kind of thing. I think my local shell has >the big banner advertising ethanol because it is more >environmentally friendly. People are finding out MTBE >is getting into the drinking water or killing the >fishes or both (something like that). So ethanol is >the (more expensive) alternative to MTBE. > >Mike ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 09:03:42 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> M52 air pump Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So it seems the air pump on my M52 motor is dead. Strange death, too... it spins, but very slowly. I pulled the inlet hose off, & found a bit of water? Not sure if that's a cause, effect, or ulrelated artifact... but it's odd (how did water get in here?). Are there any dire consequences of having this not run for an extended period of time (will this chew up my cats, etc)? Any tips/BTDTs y'all could share for replacing this would be appreciated. - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, usual suspension tricks, dead air pump ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 10:04:10 -0500 From: "Donald McMahon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [EMAIL PROTECTED] E28 Heater Core ?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris Thanks for the advice. Is Tim M still on this list? Part of my issue is keeping my daily driver on the road. I was thinking I would try to purchase a used core and a new hoses to and from the interior of the firewall. I've heard horror stories of a pressure tested core being put in then leaking. I have found this response Off http://www.MyE28.com: >[EMAIL PROTECTED] September 06, 2003 at 23:58:42 >Bentley's just gives up. It says they don't cover replacement >because it's too involved. But then they describe as how the >A/C evap & case must be removed to access the heater case >& core. This means the whole center console & all the >refrigerant must be removed. Perhaps Tim M would be able to tell these guys where they went wrong. (-: Don >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12/3/2003 9:32:53 PM >>> You basically have to take out the entire dash to get to the heater core. It's not that difficult, just that it takes a long time. And you're being more of an accountant than anything else (making sure you remember how many and which screws go with what piece). You DO NOT have to remove the AC evaporator (thanks to Tim M who did this job). You can finagle the heater core by removing the top half of the heater box out. The AC evaporator has enough play to be able to remove the heater core out. Plan for a full days work (morning, afternoon, and evening). -Chris > Well I've been dealing with a foggy windshield for the last several > years in my '85 535i. This morning the situation got a little worse > when steam began emerging from the defogging (humph) vents. > > Checking through several FAQs I have not found any information > on digging through an E28 console to get at the heater core. Does > anybody have a description of this process? > > Most of the steam seems to be coming up on the passenger side. > Does anyone know what I'm going to find when this is opened up? > Is it most likely that the heater core needs to be replaced or could > it just be an interior hose? > > Don McMahon, Okemos, MI > '85 535i, '86 535i, '75 3.0Si > (I need a new car) > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 10:52:01 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Diff recommendations for my 325e 3.46 or 3.73 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have completed the head swap and sway upgrades on the 325e and love the way it handles on the track. The only thing missing is power. I want to swap the differential for lower gears and want some advice. I'm thinking of either the 3.46 or 3.73 ratios. I've dedicated my '99 M3 for street duty (E36M3 content) and will be using the 325e for track, occasional local driving, and trips to the airport (about 30 miles) for business trips. With the Conforti chip, the rpms are about 5300. Is the 3.73 too deep for my use? TIA Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 11:44:29 -0500 From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "M535i SIG" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E28 Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC-BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS.. 17" Wheels and Brake Calipers.. E28 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi All, I was out in the Garage and came across a set of good rear front calipers off of my E28 535i. Also I had a pair of brand new still in the box Rear Calipers for the same car. I dont own the car any more, and since I have no use for the calipers, I am putting them up for sale.. $125 USD for all four.. Also, I have those TSW Blade 17" Wheels with Rubber for sale.. the pics and info can be found at www.oyabuntatsu.com/wheels Anyone interested should get in touch with me offlist Thanks Cheers Ron Janjua "To put it in simple terms, politics defines what people want; government decides what they get. For democracy to work, government must respond to politics (Shogan, 1982) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 16:50:19 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Diff recommendations for my 325e 3.46 or 3.73 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carey inquired: >I want to swap the differential for lower gears and want some advice. I'm >thinking of either the 3.46 >or 3.73 ratios. I temporarily had a 3.64 in my 1987 325e (No mods) and found it fun in town to a degree. It starts becoming unfun when you drive 25mph roads in 4th gear. But unbearable on the highway. At my normal cruise speed, I would be within 500rpm of redline. Although I did not have the opportunity to take it to the track with that gearing, I'm sure I would be mechanically limited on the main straight of the tracks near here. (Lime Rock, Pocono, Summit, NHIS, the Glen) I have since swapped in a 3.25 which I enjoy, but have not had an opportunity to autoX or take to the track. (Track season in the Northeast ended before I had the diff in.) I'm not sure if you're interested in the 3.25, but I would believe the 3.46 wouldn't be too difficult for highway driving and shouldn't limit your speeds at the track to make an impact. Gilbert _________________________________________________________________ Don�t worry if your Inbox will max out while you are enjoying the holidays. 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