The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 30 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Track tire decisions again.....
  Re: Track tire decisions again.....
  Re: Track tire decisions again.....
  Re: Track tire decisions again.....
  Re: Track tire decisions again.....
  Re: Track tire decisions again.....
  Re: [M3] Track tire decisions again.....
  Re: [M3] Track tire decisions again.....
  E36 coupe lock woes (semi urgent)
  Fade D paint
  Re: Fade D paint
  Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R
  Re: Fade D paint 
  <E36> 97 M3 Coolant Sensor
  Re: Where again?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 13:57:36 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'M3SIG'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "'UUCDigest'"
         <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

So, again it's time to decide on track tires for the upcoming events.  Being
that the track tire budget is one of the things that really breaks you on a
weekend, I'm trying to figure out how to maximize the tire life without
driving slow......

So, I've been using Kumho tires, both the Victos & Ecsta V700, unshaved &
un-heat cycled.  These are basically good for 4-7hours of track time (2
weekends) before they're shot.

I've heard lots of good things about the Toyos as well.

Basically, what I'm getting at is it would be nice to get a 3rd weekend out
of the tires.  I realize they are going to be pretty hard by then, but
currently the situation is that they are dangerous to use for that last
weekend.

So, is heat cycling likely to result in 50% more wear capabiltiy.  How 'bout
switching to the Toyos?  For those that have used both, do they last half
again as long as the Kumhos?

Best of all would be for some of you racers who heat cycle these things a
few times in a race weekend to sell us guys who actually want used tires
stuff cheap!!!!  ;-P

Thanks,
Lee

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:31:01 -0800
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: "'M3SIG'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Feb 18, 2004, at 10:57 AM, Robinson, Lee wrote:
> So, I've been using Kumho tires, both the Victos & Ecsta V700, 
> unshaved &
> un-heat cycled.  These are basically good for 4-7hours of track time (2
> weekends) before they're shot.

Is the weather hot where you live?  If so, shave them and they'll last 
longer.

I learned this the hard way on my car this year.  I actually spoke with 
a Kumho support engineer on the phone.  The V700's will blister and 
wear quickly if run unshaved in very hot weather.  The tread blocks are 
too tall and they squirm like crazy, generating a ton of heat.

You should be getting more track days out of them than you are.

How much negative camber are you running?

> I've heard lots of good things about the Toyos as well.
>

They last for-friggin'-ever.

- Mark


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 19:28:03 GMT
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Depends on how much stick you need.  The yoke 032 are noisy, and they don't stick as 
well as some, but they last pretty well.  Fine for a de tire, plus very good in the 
wet.

Marc Plante
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent from my Nextel phone
http://www.nextel.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Robinson, Lee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 13:57:36 -0500
To: 'M3SIG' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 'UUCDigest' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [UUC]  Track tire decisions again.....

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


So, again it's time to decide on track tires for the upcoming events.  Being
that the track tire budget is one of the things that really breaks you on a
weekend, I'm trying to figure out how to maximize the tire life without
driving slow......

So, I've been using Kumho tires, both the Victos & Ecsta V700, unshaved &
un-heat cycled.  These are basically good for 4-7hours of track time (2
weekends) before they're shot.

I've heard lots of good things about the Toyos as well.

Basically, what I'm getting at is it would be nice to get a 3rd weekend out
of the tires.  I realize they are going to be pretty hard by then, but
currently the situation is that they are dangerous to use for that last
weekend.

So, is heat cycling likely to result in 50% more wear capabiltiy.  How 'bout
switching to the Toyos?  For those that have used both, do they last half
again as long as the Kumhos?

Best of all would be for some of you racers who heat cycle these things a
few times in a race weekend to sell us guys who actually want used tires
stuff cheap!!!!  ;-P

Thanks,
Lee
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 15:42:06 -0500
From: "Robert Jackowitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Lee:
Unless you're racing, I would expect to get a bit more life out of those Kumhos. I 
would suggest getting them shaved and heat-cycled if you go with those tires again 
(unless you see a lot of rain), as you are probably tearing them up pretty good early 
on in their life.

I'm about to try a set of Toyos myself on an E30 racer, so I can't help you there. But 
you may want to research the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires as an alternative. I ran 
those for 10+ track days and about 1,500 street miles on an E46 M3 before they came 
apart. Equally as fast as the Kumhos. I know they are pricey, but they certainly 
seemed to last twice as long as any other track tire I've run, plus I was able to 
drive them to and from the track.
Rob


-----Original Message-----
From: Robinson, Lee [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 1:58 PM
To: 'M3SIG'; 'UUCDigest'
Subject: [UUC] Track tire decisions again.....


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


So, again it's time to decide on track tires for the upcoming events.  Being
that the track tire budget is one of the things that really breaks you on a
weekend, I'm trying to figure out how to maximize the tire life without
driving slow......


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 15:47:47 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> 
> Is the weather hot where you live?  If so, shave them and 
> they'll last 
> longer.

Nah, it never gets really hot in GA or FL.....

> 
> I learned this the hard way on my car this year.  I actually 
> spoke with 
> a Kumho support engineer on the phone.  The V700's will blister and 
> wear quickly if run unshaved in very hot weather.  The tread 
> blocks are 
> too tall and they squirm like crazy, generating a ton of heat.

This is for sure what happened to the Ecsta V700s.  After about 5 hours of
track time, the first 2 hours of which were wet, they were completely
chunked & corded at the shoulders.  This was all 4 tires as I began to
rotate them as they were falling apart.

The victos seem to wear much more preferably but still only seem to be good
for a couple of track weekends.  Because the victos have a pretty good &
shallow tread pattern I kinda doubt I'd get much from shaving them, but
wanted to know if this Heat Cycle from the Tire Rack is snake oil as I have
heard from some racers.

> 
> You should be getting more track days out of them than you are.
> 
> How much negative camber are you running?

I would hope so.....Probably nowhere near enough, about -2.5, but there's
not much I can do about that.  I add a little extra pressure due to this &
get very progressive wear & consistent temperature on the outside 2/3-3/4 of
the tire.  Using less pressure just cooks the shoulders.

> 
> > I've heard lots of good things about the Toyos as well.
> >
> 
> They last for-friggin'-ever.

This seems to be the opinion goin' round.....

> 
> - Mark

Lee

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 13:03:14 -0800
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Feb 18, 2004, at 12:47 PM, Robinson, Lee wrote:
>> Is the weather hot where you live?  If so, shave them and
>> they'll last
>> longer.
>
> Nah, it never gets really hot in GA or FL.....

Right.

>>
>> I learned this the hard way on my car this year.  I actually
>> spoke with
>> a Kumho support engineer on the phone.  The V700's will blister and
>> wear quickly if run unshaved in very hot weather.  The tread
>> blocks are
>> too tall and they squirm like crazy, generating a ton of heat.
>
> This is for sure what happened to the Ecsta V700s.  After about 5 
> hours of
> track time, the first 2 hours of which were wet, they were completely
> chunked & corded at the shoulders.  This was all 4 tires as I began to
> rotate them as they were falling apart.

The Ecstas have a design problem (and there was a subsequent compound 
change that may or not alleviate this).

I was surprised when my Victos did the same thing.  But I was racing on 
them full-tread in 100+ degree weather.  I filled out the tech question 
form on the Kumho web site and got a phone call back from an engineer 
in 20 minutes.  I was FLOORED.

> The victos seem to wear much more preferably but still only seem to be 
> good
> for a couple of track weekends.  Because the victos have a pretty good 
> &
> shallow tread pattern I kinda doubt I'd get much from shaving them, but
> wanted to know if this Heat Cycle from the Tire Rack is snake oil as I 
> have
> heard from some racers.

I was told to shave them for hot weather use by the Kumho engineer.  
YMMV, of course, but that seems like a fairly qualified source.  :)

I think the TR heat cycling is better than no heat cycling.

>> How much negative camber are you running?
>
> I would hope so.....Probably nowhere near enough, about -2.5, but 
> there's
> not much I can do about that.  I add a little extra pressure due to 
> this &
> get very progressive wear & consistent temperature on the outside 
> 2/3-3/4 of
> the tire.  Using less pressure just cooks the shoulders.

Those tires, as well as the Toyos, want to be at 40 psi hot.  Aim for 
that.

- Mark


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:22:36 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Simon Hunter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED],
   [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED],
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [M3] Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Ditto, Toyo RA1 is the best driving school R compound tire out there.
They are not as fast as Kumhos or Hoosiers, but they are predictable, heat
cycles are a non-issue. 
I have gotten as much as 6 open track weekends out of a set.

I am now running 235/40/17 on 17x9 wheels on my racer
and they seem to last and last.

Full tread Toyos are also great in the rain.

Bora

>-- Original Message --
>Subject: RE: [M3] Track tire decisions again.....
>From: "Simon Hunter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
>       <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 13:19:43 -0600
>
>
>
>
>Ditto, Toyo's are by far the best Driver school tire, just as fast as
>kumho's (not the new Kumho 710), last much longer than any other tire
>and are basically immune to heat cycles.  I was only a 1.5 seconds
>slower on old toyo's, compared to new Hoosiers at Putnam Park.  They are
>also the easiest R-Tire to drive on in my opinion, they even squeal like
>street tires.
>
>Simon
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 2:06 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [M3] Track tire decisions again.....
>
>
>
>
>In a message dated 2/18/04 1:58:51 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>writes:
>
><< I've heard lots of good things about the Toyos as well. >>
>
>Look no further.
>This is (IMHO) the best track day / school / practice / fun tire out
>there.
>I think I have tried just about them all.
>They wear like iron.
>They feel great. Very predictable,,, drift awesome.
>They get faster as they get older.
>Cost a little more to buy than the Kumhos,,, but last way longer.
>
>I buy them full tread for wets, shaved to 5/32 for dry.
>I have also bought them full tread and just driven them down to the
>cords,,, 
>but that takes a pretty long time.
>
>I love em.
>Cheers
>jimmy p.
>______________________________________________
>E30 M3 SIG Premier Sponsors:
>   http://www.turnermotorsport.com (Turner Motorsport)
>   http://www.bimmerworld.com (bimmerworld)
>   http://www.vacmotorsports.com (VAC Motorsports)
>   http://www.cbmwnh.com (Covered Bridge Motor Werks)
>   http://www.iigomotiv.com (iigomotiv)
>   http://www.bmwcca.org (BMW Car Club of America)
>_______________________________________________
>To manage your account, please see http://www.bimmers.com/m3/help.html
>Archives: http://www.bimmers.com/archives/m3
>______________________________________________
>E30 M3 SIG Premier Sponsors:
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>   http://www.bimmerworld.com (bimmerworld)
>   http://www.vacmotorsports.com (VAC Motorsports)
>   http://www.cbmwnh.com (Covered Bridge Motor Werks)
>   http://www.iigomotiv.com (iigomotiv)
>   http://www.bmwcca.org (BMW Car Club of America)
>_______________________________________________
>To manage your account, please see http://www.bimmers.com/m3/help.html
>Archives: http://www.bimmers.com/archives/m3




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 15:11:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [M3] Track tire decisions again.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> heat cycles are a non-issue.

not entirely... they do get slower as they heat cycle but its not as steep
a curve as some other tires

> I have gotten as much as 6 open track weekends out of a set.

I have roughly 20 weekends one of my current sets (new 7/20/02), including
2 races. They are pretty doggone hard right now.

joel


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:44:58 -0500
From: "Larry T" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E36 coupe lock woes (semi urgent)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


First off, sorry for the cross-post, but this is kinda urgent.

Background:
Since I got this car (98 m3/2), the key will not lock/unlock the car from 
the passenger side door, but the door will unlock/lock if you use the 
central locking button. The door opens fine with the inside/outside handles. 
I did some asking about this, and it was decided that it was the door lock 
actuator.

Today:
I was bored, so I decided I would take apart the door, to see what I'm 
dealing with. I'm planning on installing new speakers, and I ordered a new 
door lock actuator, so it had to be done anyway. I get in there, and I can 
see the lock cylinder, I can see where the rod from the inside door handle 
goes to the actuator(I guess?), and I can see what I think is the actuator.

Here's my problem. On the lock cylinder, there is a rod, just dangling 
there. Needless to say, I do not think this is how it should be. The rod is 
attached to the cylinder, and it moves when I turn the lock with the key. It 
seems to me that this rod should connect to the actuator, to tell the car to 
lock and unlock the car, but I cannot find where it attaches to.

If anyone can shed some info, I would greatly appreciate it. I'd like to get 
it done today before I lose some light. Pictures can be provided, if they 
are necessary. Thanks!

Larry

_________________________________________________________________
Get fast, reliable access with MSN 9 Dial-up. Click here for Special Offer! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:54:44 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fade D paint
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Quick question : 
> What is general concensus on the best product for restoring colour to
> faded automotive paint ? Your typical BMW hood and trunklid after 15 yrs
> in S E sunshine ,rain, humidity ,bootleg whisky etc etc ....
> DON'T say 'rubbing compound ' !! I need to put colour back not rub it
> off on a cloth !! 

OK, don't use rubbing compound, if you need to put color back on the car, get the car 
repainted....

The idea of rubbing compound on non-clear coat cars (I have no idea what yours is 
since you don't mention it) is to remove the faded/damaged portion on the upper most 
portion of the paint.  There really is very little use in waxing a faded surface.

Maybe you need to use that "Color Match" wax, I believe that puts color back...

Regards,

Rich ;-)


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 12:08:19 -1000
From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fade D paint
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

fwiw, turtle wax's "color back" wax impressed me...it helped to bring back
color to some beaters i've acquired in the past...it helped to put color
back into a red 85 camaro, red 86 prelude, and a black 85 gmc jimmy...it
wont restore paint that's been totally faded, but i have had GREAT luck with
the product...it's available almost everywhere, and costs ~5 bucks...look
for the "older" version if you can- it doesnt say "clear coat safe" on
it...the older version seemed to work slightly better on my old beaters...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Maybe you need to use that "Color Match" wax, I believe that puts color
back...


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 15:13:43 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> Front Door Handle R&R
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Considering the glass takes about 3 minutes extra to remove, it's not an
issue.

But yes, in order to get the handle assembly out, the glass has to be out of
the way.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> Please tell me the Bentley manual is mistaken in saying it's
> necessary to remove the window glass on a '92 318is to R&R
> the front door outside handle.  Please?
>
> Curt Ingraham
> Oakland, CA
>
---
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:32:09 -0600
From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fade D paint 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

respray?


>What is general concensus on the best product for restoring colour to faded 
>automotive paint ? Your typical BMW hood and trunklid after 15 yrs in S E 
>sunshine ,rain, humidity ,bootleg whisky etc etc .... DON�T say 'rubbing 
>compound ' !! I need to put colour back not rub it off on a cloth !!
>

_________________________________________________________________
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200365ave/direct/01/


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 15:01:54 -0600
From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: <E36> 97 M3 Coolant Sensor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi all,
I got the dreaded check engine light a few days ago, had the code read
out and it is the "coolant temp sensor".  The usual parts sources keep
wanting to sell me the aux fan switch on the side of the radiator.  I
don't think that sensor talks to the DME/OBDII stuff.  Can anyone help
me out with a part number or additional info the sensor that does talk
to the DME?

Regards,
Paul Craven
97 M3 4 - [EMAIL PROTECTED] CEL is on again!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:12:07 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Where again?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

OK guys, where again are the sources for the Bosch wiper blade refills? Not
the whole blade just the refills.

Grassyass,

-Kevin


------------------------------

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