The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 28 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Accident update.......
  Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
  Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
  Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
  Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
  Cone Filter Question
  Re: Cone Filter Question
  TechFest East Reston VA May 13-16, 2004
  Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement
  Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement
  Alternator squealing like a pig
  Re: Alternator squealing like a pig
  Source for reman alternator
  Re: Source for reman alternator
  Re: Source for reman alternator

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:28:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Accident update.......
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Greetings group!

I just wanted to give you guys an update on what
happened with my whole accident situation.  Last
October I was hit while making a left turn at an
intersection by a girl that ran a red light.  Some of
you were quick to judge and blamed me for not making
sure the intersection was clear yada yada yada.  I
won't mention any names.  Well after an extensive
process and her fighting that the light was yellow I
was found NOT AT FAULT.  I was VERY persistant with
her insurance company, who did not even try to get a
statement from my witness or follow up with me. 
Persistance here definately prevailed.  I just wanted
to let you all know to be as persistant as possible
until you get what's right.  And don't believe too
much of what the other insurance company is telling
you because most of it is just bull S#$%! 

Manuel Paredes
1995 325i
L.A. BMWCCA

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:11:04 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED],
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

re:  21.5# versus 24# injectors?

Can we compare the stock 21.5# (96-99) injector running at a higher fuel pressure, 4 
bar, which is stock on the E46 //M3, for example, versus s 24# injector running at E36 
stock fuel pressure of 3.5 bar?

Does someone know the math to do here?
This would be with stock cams and the airflow of a European HFM.

What are the differences and similarities in how the engine would run?
tia,

Barry

>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  
>
>>If you are planning on internal engine upgrades (cam, etc), it may be a
>>good time to invest in 24# injectors and a matching chip.
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:59:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Flow is proportional to the square root of the delta
P.  At 3.5 bar, an injector flows 93.5% compared to
4.0 bar.  24 becomes 22.4.

Gary Derian

--- jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> re:  21.5# versus 24# injectors?
> 
> Can we compare the stock 21.5# (96-99) injector
> running at a higher fuel pressure, 4 bar, which is
> stock on the E46 //M3, for example, versus s 24#
> injector running at E36 stock fuel pressure of 3.5
> bar?
> 
> Does someone know the math to do here?
> This would be with stock cams and the airflow of a
> European HFM.
> 
> What are the differences and similarities in how the
> engine would run?
> tia,
> 
> Barry
> 
> >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >  
> >
> >>If you are planning on internal engine upgrades
> (cam, etc), it may be a
> >>good time to invest in 24# injectors and a
> matching chip.
> >  
> >
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


=====
Gary Derian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 14:08:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

http://www.stealth316.com/2-air-fuel-flow.htm
This has the best fuel calculator I've found online.  Skip down to the injector sizing 
and you can play with just about any variable you're likely to care about.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Feb 16, 2004 11:11 AM
To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED], 
        [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  21.5# versus 24# injectors?

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


re:  21.5# versus 24# injectors?

Can we compare the stock 21.5# (96-99) injector running at a higher fuel pressure, 4 
bar, which is stock on the E46 //M3, for example, versus s 24# injector running at E36 
stock fuel pressure of 3.5 bar?

Does someone know the math to do here?
This would be with stock cams and the airflow of a European HFM.

What are the differences and similarities in how the engine would run?
tia,

Barry




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 18:52:25 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 21.5# versus 24# injectors?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Re: [UUC]  21.5# versus 24# injectors?

Brian,
     The calculator site you posted the link to predicts about 272hp 
potential for stock 21.5# injectors at 4 bar fuel pressure, with the 
BSFC factor changed from .55 to .5  and about 284 hp potential for 24# 
injectors at stock 3.5 bar pressure, but doesn't specify the scale 
used.for regular street motors.
My rear wheel dyno testing showed 227, or 227/.85=267 estimated engine 
hp, SAE scale.
     Since my WOT air/fuel at higher revs is ~ 13:1, my motor should be 
able to use the additional fuel.  Just won that EBay auction for a set 
of 24# injectors.  Another 8-10 rear wheel hp for $100. is worth going for.
How the ECU will react is uncertain so after I install them I'll be 
making another trip to the dyno again to check out the air/fuel and 
power output to be sure I'm not gonna blow this baby up.
Thanks for the link.

Barry


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 15:57:26 -0500
From: Mo Karamat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Cone Filter Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Bob,

        Go to plumbing dept in Home Depot.  You want something called a Furnco
coupling. (I believe that this is the company that makes them)  It is simply
a rubber hose (with different diameters on both sides) with hose clamps on
both sides.

Hope this helps.
Mo Karamat
98 M3/4
91 325IX
83 323i


Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 17:54:58 -0500
From: "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Cone Filter Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Where can I buy a reducer, as shown behind the cone in this picture:

http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/eimg/4/69/E30.v8.03.jpg

If it's 80mm-to-70mm, and I think it is, then it's what I need to make my
intake work. Who sells?

Bob Fluharty
95 M3
87 325is/3.0
Cincinnati




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 13:28:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Cone Filter Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Get fancy and make a custom one.  Carve the shape you
want from styrofoam.  Cover with fiberglass.  Melt out
styroforam with acetone.  Voila.  Custom reducer with
any offset/diameter/zig-zag you need.

Gary Derian

--- Mo Karamat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
>       Go to plumbing dept in Home Depot.  You want
> something called a Furnco
> coupling. (I believe that this is the company that
> makes them)  It is simply
> a rubber hose (with different diameters on both
> sides) with hose clamps on
> both sides.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> Mo Karamat
> 98 M3/4
> 91 325IX
> 83 323i
> 
> 
> Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 17:54:58 -0500
> From: "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Cone Filter Question
> Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> Where can I buy a reducer, as shown behind the cone
> in this picture:
> 
> http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/eimg/4/69/E30.v8.03.jpg
> 
> If it's 80mm-to-70mm, and I think it is, then it's
> what I need to make my
> intake work. Who sells?
> 
> Bob Fluharty
> 95 M3
> 87 325is/3.0
> Cincinnati
> 
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


=====
Gary Derian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 21:40:19 -0500
From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ///uucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: TechFest East Reston VA May 13-16, 2004
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Jim Conforti and Josh MacMurray just added to the list of technical speakers.
If you are a vendor and would like to participate, please contact me.
If you will be participating, we need your registration form.

And a reminder. . .
Originally established in 1981, Gateway Tech was 
an annual gathering hosted by the St. Louis BMW 
Club for those BMW enthusiasts who wanted to 
delve just a little deeper into the technology 
behind their Ultimate Driving Machine�. Every 
year for more than 20 years, the faithful took 
over a St. Louis hotel and filled it with BMW 
cars, gadgets and gearheads for three straight 
days, which included tech sessions, social 
gatherings, a showroom/vendor area, and a BMW CCA 
Club Race.  Beginning with 2003, the event went 
mobile, with a different chapter being asked to 
host the event each year. The Los Angeles chapter 
was honored in 2003 with being the host chapter 
for the first event held outside of St. Louis and 
now the National Capital Chapter welcomes you to 
the Mid-Atlantic region in 2004. This event will 
be held at the Hyatt Regency Reston in Reston 
Virgina near Dulles Airport and 23 miles west of 
Washington DC.

Full 4 day registration $150.00. 2 days of 
technical seminars (Friday, Saturday and Sunday 
morning), lunch Friday and Saturday. Welcome 
Reception Thursday evening. Dinner Friday and 
Saturday evenings. Door prizes, key note 
speakers. First Class Hyatt Hotel just 
$119/single. Make your reservations now!

http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast/

Some of the technical sessions we are working on

-Basic Cosmetics - Car Care OnLine, Larry Reynolds
-Basic Maintenance Q&A - CCA Tech Service Advisors
-Paintless Dent Repair - Wagonwork, Matt McNally
-Leather Care, Preservation, Restoration - Leatherique, George Pavlisko
-Tire Manufacturers Rep Forum
-DIY Brake Pads - Curry's Auto Service, Chris Coulter
-Electrical Fundamentals, Troubleshooting - Bentley Publishers, Charlie Burke
-How Breaks der Bimmer: Ways BMW Parts Fail - Terry Sayther, Grant Randall
-Modern Lubricants
-BMW's New Technology, including DSC, Active Steering - BMW NA Expert
-Open Q&A Forums - BMW CCA Tech Service Advisors
-Typical Rust Problems - Mike Self
-Finding Parts for Old BMWs -  BMW Mobile Tradition, Maximillian Importing
-Restorations: Classic & High Performance -  Korman Autoworks, Ray Korman
-Software Upgrades
-Suspension Upgrades:Street to Track - Road Race Technologies, Barry Battle
-Suspension Upgrades:Track to Race -  Ground Control, Jay Morris
-Track Safety Gear: HANS, Helmets, Harness, Seats - HMS Motorsport
-Brake Upgrades
-Club Racing: How to Get Started - BMW CCA Club Racing
-Club Racing: How to Race -  BMW CCA Club Racing
-Race Car Prep
-Cylinder Heads -  Memphis Motorwerks, Leo Goff
-E30 M3 Engine Rebuilds, the Right Way - Precision Performance, Pete McHenry
-Swapping in Bigger Bimmer Engines - Precision Performance, Pete McHenry
-Turbo Charging -  Active Autowerke, Karl Hugh
-Supercharging
-- 
...steven
TechFest East  http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast
2003 Mini Cooper S
1996 BMW 328ti


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 00:38:01 -0500
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Neil,

Thanks for the alternative viewpoint on the RSMs and the other tips.  
I'm leaning away from the GCs due to the urethane bushings - I'm more 
concerned with ride quality than durability or getting the last bit of 
handling out of it.  I think I'll probably go with the Bimmerworld 
RSMs.  Not a big deal to change them on the convertible and they're 
lifetime guaranteed, so if they don't last I can just install free new 
ones when necessary.

Thanks,
Brian

Neil Maller wrote:

>I'm going to have to disagree with Alex F's response to you, in part because
>he has an M3 (as do I) and you don't.
>
>During track season I run a fairly extreme suspension setup (Koni DA
>coilovers with 450/500 lb springs), but in winter I refit the stock M3
>suspension. So I have current and ongoing experience with both setups.
>
>With the track suspension I use the GC RSMs. These are very robust, great
>for aggressively suspended cars, but also quite stiff and transmit
>noticeable NVH into the car.
>
>With the stock/winter setup I use the E46 M3 RSMs, which while considerably
>more durable than the E36 equivalent, also have decent compliance in the
>rubber. In my opinion, in a stock E36, they're likely to last the remaining
>life of your car. Furthermore the E36 cabrio isn't the most rigid chassis in
>the world (which is why the M3 version was so disappointing), so you really
>do want to cushion the suspension as much as possible.
>  
>



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:20:05 -0800 (PST)
From: willie yeo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My mechanic in LA area had designed a combination of
RSM and rear strut brace in one.
He claim that this product will put an end to RSM
replacement.  He and his fellow mechanics are sick of
replacing RSM so he came up with a design to solve the
problem once and for all.

I have seen the prototype. He is planing to sell it
for under $200. I will try to post a picture of the
product when it becomes available. 
If not you can try contact South Bay BMW.

Will

--- Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> Neil,
> 
> Thanks for the alternative viewpoint on the RSMs and
> the other tips.  
> I'm leaning away from the GCs due to the urethane
> bushings - I'm more 
> concerned with ride quality than durability or
> getting the last bit of 
> handling out of it.  I think I'll probably go with
> the Bimmerworld 
> RSMs.  Not a big deal to change them on the
> convertible and they're 
> lifetime guaranteed, so if they don't last I can
> just install free new 
> ones when necessary.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian
> 
> Neil Maller wrote:
> 
> >I'm going to have to disagree with Alex F's
> response to you, in part because
> >he has an M3 (as do I) and you don't.
> >
> >During track season I run a fairly extreme
> suspension setup (Koni DA
> >coilovers with 450/500 lb springs), but in winter I
> refit the stock M3
> >suspension. So I have current and ongoing
> experience with both setups.
> >
> >With the track suspension I use the GC RSMs. These
> are very robust, great
> >for aggressively suspended cars, but also quite
> stiff and transmit
> >noticeable NVH into the car.
> >
> >With the stock/winter setup I use the E46 M3 RSMs,
> which while considerably
> >more durable than the E36 equivalent, also have
> decent compliance in the
> >rubber. In my opinion, in a stock E36, they're
> likely to last the remaining
> >life of your car. Furthermore the E36 cabrio isn't
> the most rigid chassis in
> >the world (which is why the M3 version was so
> disappointing), so you really
> >do want to cushion the suspension as much as
> possible.
> >  
> >
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 07:16:59 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Alternator squealing like a pig
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Last night driving, my alternator was whining pretty bad when I first
started.  When I engaged the clutch and let the revs at idle, the squeal
would stop.  Shortly after re-revving the squeal came back.  It was
definitely the alternator because my voltmeter dropped to the mid-zone when
the squeal was sounding and it would move back to normal when the squeal
stopped.  This is a 2.5L single vanos (m50), 73K miles.

After about 6 miles or so, the squeal disappeared completely.  I stopped
and started the car several times - nothing.  I checked the belts - nothing
unusual and they are new belts.  I'm  going to do some more investigating
this evening - Anything I should try or look for or listen for?  Should I
go ahead and get a reman unit now, just in case?  Or coarse it could have
been moisture within the alternator on a very cold evening - but I don't
know??


Phil

'95 325 Ti
'98 318 Ti



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 18:09:25 -0000
From: "Bancroft, Simon [OPS]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alternator squealing like a pig
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Here's a fix for you, an it always used to work ...

" Shortly after re-revving the squeal came back.  It was
definitely the alternator because my voltmeter dropped to the mid-zone when
the squeal was sounding and it would move back to normal when the squeal
stopped.  This is a 2.5L single vanos (m50), 73K miles.

After about 6 miles or so, the squeal disappeared completely.  I stopped
and started the car several times - nothing.  I checked the belts - nothing
unusual and they are new belts.  I'm  going to do some more investigating
this evening - Anything I should try or look for or listen for?  Should I
go ahead and get a reman unit now, just in case?  Or coarse it could have
been moisture within the alternator on a very cold evening - but I don't
know??"

Get an old bar of soap, under the hood, engine idling, carefully hold the bar of soap 
on the underside of the belt, and the rev the engine gently up to about 3k .... This 
will usually get rid of any squeaks, all be it temporarily. If the belt is loose, then 
you may have other problems. This will get rid of any oily deposits on the belt or 
pulleys, and then you can tell for sure later if you still have problems. Remember, 
careful with your hands down there as the engine is running! In the long run, replace 
all worn belts.

YMMV, 

Regards

Banners, London.

M535iA, SIG member #053


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 10:59:04 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Source for reman alternator
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Looks like I'm going to be needing an alternator soon.  I know of
Zionsville Autosport, any others?

2.5L (m50) single Vanos (engine from a 93 325i).  Thanks in advance.

Phil




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 08:19:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Source for reman alternator
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A used alternator may be no better than your used one.
 Have your's rebuilt at a local Bosch shop, or get
brushes and bearings and do it yourself.

Gary Derian

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> Looks like I'm going to be needing an alternator
> soon.  I know of
> Zionsville Autosport, any others?
> 
> 2.5L (m50) single Vanos (engine from a 93 325i). 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Phil
> 
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


=====
Gary Derian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 10:20:18 -0600
From: Eric Giles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Source for reman alternator
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>Looks like I'm going to be needing an alternator soon.  I know of
>Zionsville Autosport, any others?
>
>2.5L (m50) single Vanos (engine from a 93 325i).  Thanks in advance.
>
>Phil
>  
>
Whatever you do, don't buy a reman alternator from a third party 
rebuilder (i.e., one you would get from a NAPA, Carquest, etc.). I just 
recently went through this on my '97 M3/4. My original alternator was 
whining a good bit, so I replaced it with a third party Valeo reman. 
along with a new belt, tensioner, and pullies. The reman still made a 
bit of noise, and within a week all of my lights were flickering. I 
replaced the battery to see if that would help as the BMW battery was 
showing a low charge-no change. I sent that back and they sent another 
Valeo-same problem but even worse. After a lot of searching on the 
Internet, I have found that the only decent alternator is a reman. Bosch 
from the dealer. Stay away from the Valeo alternator-from my research 
they had a lot of problems with these!

This weekend I picked up a used BMW/Bosch alternator from a CCA friend 
and now everything is perfect-no alternator whine and I have a steady 
voltage. I know that thru the dealers here that the reman. Bosch 80 amp 
is around $240 with the CCA discount and a $30 core charge.

Eric Giles
'97 M3/4
'90 M3


------------------------------

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