The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 27 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E28 535I questions Re: <rant> autoextremist on BMW Re: <Misc> CD Changer - No power E36 M3 injectors Re: E36 M3 injectors Re: E36 M3 injectors Re: E36 M3 injectors Re: E36 M3 injectors Re: collision repair dallas Painting OEM Wheels Re: Lose spark plug chain of events Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Re: <e36 M3> TAB time Re: [e36 M3] TAB time
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 06:16:33 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E28 535I questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Anybody know of a page to regrease the heater blower bearings?" BTDT - don't wasted your time. Replace the motor. Greasing the bearings was only a temporary fix - less than a year later I was in there again. You don't have to mess with the AC to replace the motor, but it's still no picnic - just tight quarters. I bought a used blower motor from Bavarian Auto Works - don't recall the price (around $100 I think). The motor I got from them was in great shape with good commutator and lots of brush. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 08:44:25 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <rant> autoextremist on BMW Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Somehow I don't think BMW had the Z06 in its sights when it put the M3 > together - both cars have four roadwheels and lots of power, They're priced the same....... > > Andy T Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:12:03 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <Misc> CD Changer - No power Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for the ideas. Turns out the connector at the motherboard in the changer must have been loose. When I reassembled the whole thing after troubleshooting it worked OK. The unit is actually hard wired to power to allow changing of disks while the radio is powered off. Marc Plante E36 325i 219k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:30:13 -0500 From: "Michael Stoneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW UUC Digest submission address" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 M3 injectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Can someone help me out here? I've got one or two injectors on my 95 M3 that are not performing properly causing a slight engine miss. Will injectors that were originally installed on 96 and later M3's (not the updated ones) work as replacements for mine? I have access to a low mileage donor fuel rail and will replace them all at a fraction of the cost of new ones. Mike Stoneman ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:40:01 -0500 From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 M3 injectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Maybe try a can of BG 44K fuel system treatment. Does a great job cleaning fuel systems. Dave Meyer 99 328is 03 FLHRI Stafford VA >I've got one or two injectors on my 95 M3 that are not >performing properly causing a slight engine miss. >Mike Stoneman ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:12:53 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "BMW Digest Submission" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Michael Stoneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 M3 injectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Michael Stoneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Can someone help me out here? I've got one or two injectors on my > 95 M3 that are not performing properly causing a slight engine miss. Mike, That's pretty unusual. Are you sure it's the injectors and the coils (usual suspects) or the DME? > Will injectors that were originally installed on 96 and later M3's > (not the updated ones) work as replacements for mine? Not without a new chip. The '96+ injectors have a little higher flow rate and your current chip/DME combo will flood the cylinders. > I have access to a low mileage donor fuel rail and will replace them > all at a fraction of the cost of new ones. Allocate another $250 to your '96 injectors budget to get a proper chip from JimC. That should push the cost of the 'deal' above buying brand new OE '95 injectors. If you are planning on internal engine upgrades (cam, etc), it may be a good time to invest in 24# injectors and a matching chip. alex f ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:50:09 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 M3 injectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >If you are planning on internal engine upgrades (cam, etc), it may be a >good time to invest in 24# injectors and a matching chip. Assuming these are Bosch 24s (which I believe they are) they're a common takeoff item from Mustang Cobras on which they're the stock injector. There's a set of 8 on Ebay right now, currently at $66. Also a set of 6 M3 injectors (listing doesn't say what year so you need to know what you're looking for) currently at $15. Both auctions ending today. And a set of 6 21.5# 98 M3 injectors, currently at $49.99 95 M3 injectors (19#) currently at $99 etc. There are tons of 19lb injectors from Mustang GTs from 87-98. Just a sampling These are on on the first page-and-a half of results. None of them are mine, etc... Brian ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:57:56 -0500 From: "Michael Stoneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW UUC Digest submission address" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 M3 injectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Alex, We're not totally sure but #2 and #6 injectors sound (stethoscope) to be the culprits. The coils are OK. We plan to hook up to the BMW G1(can't recall exact name) machine this week at my BMW store to observe the injectors on the scope. Violet, my M3, is basically a daily good weather driver, so improving performance isn't my goal. I have Jim's chip in my 530iT, so I know what kind of improvement that will make. But you've got me thinking . . . Total cost with chip and 96 up injectors may not be much more than two new injectors at around $80 each. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "BMW Digest Submission" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Michael Stoneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 10:12 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 M3 injectors > > "Michael Stoneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Can someone help me out here? I've got one or two injectors on my > > 95 M3 that are not performing properly causing a slight engine miss. > > Mike, > That's pretty unusual. Are you sure it's the injectors and the coils (usual > suspects) or the DME? > > > Will injectors that were originally installed on 96 and later M3's > > (not the updated ones) work as replacements for mine? > > Not without a new chip. > The '96+ injectors have a little higher flow rate and your current chip/DME > combo will flood the cylinders. > > > I have access to a low mileage donor fuel rail and will replace them > > all at a fraction of the cost of new ones. > > Allocate another $250 to your '96 injectors budget to get a proper chip > from JimC. > That should push the cost of the 'deal' above buying brand new OE '95 > injectors. > If you are planning on internal engine upgrades (cam, etc), it may be a > good time to invest in 24# injectors and a matching chip. > > alex f > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:23:48 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: "Bmw uucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: collision repair dallas Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Rich Jenkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Can anyone recommend a body shop in the Dallas area? I was victim > of our only snow storm of the year and a truck bumper that didn't > come close to touching mine! Rich, Depending on what part of the Metroplex you are in, I would consider GTI or Stuart's. Possibly Concours. BTW, if you were a BMW CCA and local Lone Star Chapter member, you would have the benefit of participating in the local chat list with 400+ chapter members relating their recent repair experiences at the local shops. See www.bmwcca.org for details. > My car has over 100k miles and I'm hoping to keep this one off of > insurance and use a shop that will find used parts (esp. hood.) If you hit the trunk with your nose (likely your fault), the hood wont be the only part requiring body work. Take a closer look and your vertical nose section is likely askew as well. That may in turn have effected the mounting points and possibly the radiator, condenser and slushbox cooler themselves. Possibly the fenders. It gets very messy and expensive very fast. My wife's E30 was totaled back in the day from a gentle sandwich between 2 SUVs on 635. The hood and trunk were barely dented. Little things added up in a hurry. If I were you I would make use of that auto insurance. If you get lucky and the at-fault repair bill is <$1K, you wont get surcharged in TX. > The dealer's body shop held my car hostage for a month last time so > looking another option. If time is at a premium, I would skip Stuart's. Working on your bimmer may take second place to fixing the exotics. HTH, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 10:55:12 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Painting OEM Wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I was looking at my black, lowered E30 the other day, and I decided I might > paint my OEM Bottlecap wheels black too. the surface is in great shape, > the wheels aren't very old. I was thinking of just masking the rim where > the wheel weights go, and the first 1/2 of smooth rim, then painting the > rest. I think the wheels are painted from the factory, so my thoughts are > just to clean and then scuff them with a Scotchbrite pad. I don't see any > need to remove the perfect old finish, as I assume it is a factory > Urethane, and should make for a good base. I know Ed said that the factory finish was an epoxy and I can't say for certain about the bottle cap wheels, but some of the E30 wheels (like a basket weave) were powder coated (not sure if it is an epoxy powder or other). Possibly the E30 wheels were epoxy powder coated. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:12:14 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Lose spark plug chain of events Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -----Original Message----- From: Sam Drake <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >You bet I'm on my way to a new distributor cap. As I monitor this situation >I'm wondering about the explanation for the really thick carbon bulb >encasing the electrode (the metal finger from the case over to the electrode >actually). That part of the plug is called the ground strap. >Is running the plug loose the explanation? The plugs have >approximately 10K miles. What happens to injectors when a cylinder misfires >due to faulty ignition? Nothing. The injector's job is to squirt fuel into the cylinder, it doesn't really care what happens after that. >Has the injector been compromised? No, although it probably wouldn't hurt to run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it. If you've been having a consistent misfire it might also be a good idea to change the oil as the unburned fuel will drain past the rings into the oil pan. My 2 cents, Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 11:46:12 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A couple more small points: 1) I don't understand why everyone is so fearful about removing the rear speakers. Removing the speakers (yes I have the bigger HK ones) take all of 5 minutes each, if that. To remove them, pop the grill off, remove the three screws (use a stubby screwdriver), one plug, move the lock tab, and they will drop down in the trunk. No need to cut/slice anything or fold down the seats to remove bolsters etc etc. Also, the lock tab helps you put them back in so you don't need a helper to hold them. BMW made the process pretty easy. 2) Pealing the trunk liner back takes about 5 minutes tops. Just remove the rear tail-light covers. Note that you don't need to remove it all. Just peal back enough so you can get access. Though it can add a bit of time if you have the trunk mounted CD changer (I don't). Watch out for the little plastic emergency release cable for the lock on the gas cap on the passenger side. That little tab seems to eat most of my time when pealing the trunk liner back or installing it, as it can be tough to seperate. 3) If you have stock shocks, the E46 RSMs are a small improvement over the E36 ones, if you have Bilsteins or you don't want to deal with the mounts again, get JTD or GCs. With Bilsteins, you will eat the E46 mounts almost as fast as the E36 ones (I ate a E46 set in 6k miles). Though it does depend on local road quality. Boston and surrounding areas are horrible, especially after a cold winter like we are having. -Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 bmw cca checkout http://www.bmw2002.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 12:04:02 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Rear Shock Mount Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "JUSTIN GERRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > A couple more small points: > > 1) I don't understand why everyone is so fearful about removing the > rear speakers. Removing the speakers (yes I have the bigger HK ones) > take all of 5 minutes each, if that. To remove them, pop the grill off, > remove the three screws (use a stubby screwdriver), one plug, move the > lock tab, and they will drop down in the trunk. No need to cut/slice > anything or fold down the seats to remove bolsters etc etc. Also, the > lock tab helps you put them back in so you don't need a helper to hold > them. BMW made the process pretty easy. 2) Pealing the trunk liner back takes about 5 minutes tops. Justin, You are absolutely right in your speaker removal instructions and process assessment. It's far from a life or death situation. Nor is it a joyous occasion. Not too long ago Koni SAs required removal from the car to change their rebound setting. That has since been antiquated with the advent of externally adjustable rear Koni SAs. Until that time (and for those with old Koni SAs), the ability to remove the shocks from inside the wheel well is priceless. > 3) If you have stock shocks, the E46 RSMs are a small improvement > over the E36 ones, if you have Bilsteins or you don't want to deal > with the mounts again, get JTD or GCs. With Bilsteins, you will eat > the E46 mounts almost as fast as the E36 ones (I ate a E46 set in > 6k miles). Though it does depend on local road quality. Amen to that. Frankly, I did not feel any change in suspension response after installing GC RSMs on my M3 and my wife's 328i (bone stock suspension). I did it on her car to gain the peace of mind that I'll never have to check her RSM condition ever again. And that whenever times comes to change her shocks, it will be a simple 5 minutes affair. YMMV, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 12:05:29 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <e36 M3> TAB time Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > on 2/13/04 4:27 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > Sean, > > I would NOT put them on a street car. At least not the GC ones. > > For one simple reason that they squeak incessantly. Every time > > the trailing arm moves. Which is to say all the time. > > Liberal lubrication helps partially for a week at a time. > > Amazingly annoying. > > Curious. I installed the GC TAB shims shortly after they first became > available, and they've never squeaked, at least not that I notice. I've > never lubed them either. Neil, Did you use the '96 (skirted) RTABs? Did GC change their RTAB shim material? I installed the shims after reading glowing reports on this and other digests. Whatever the cause, the squeaking introduced by changing the RTABs and adding the GC shims (very tight fit) is a major PITA. I asked about this on the lists and a bunch of people emailed back saying they are dealing with the same issue by liberally spraying lubricants and turning up the radio. I use the car as a daily driver. Unless I find a permanent solution in the near future, the shims are coming out. IMHO, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 13:11:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [e36 M3] TAB time Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 2/16/04 1:05 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Did you use the '96 (skirted) RTABs? Yep, mine's a 96, and I've replaced the RTABS anyway. > Did GC change their RTAB shim material? That I don't know. Mine are a very hard white plastic, could be Delrin or HDPE. > I installed the shims after reading glowing reports on this and other > digests. Whatever the cause, the squeaking introduced by changing the RTABs > and adding the GC shims (very tight fit) is a major PITA. I asked about > this on the lists and a bunch of people emailed back saying they are > dealing with the same issue by liberally spraying lubricants and turning up > the radio. Haven't had to do either! > I use the car as a daily driver. Unless I find a permanent solution in the > near future, the shims are coming out. Daily driver here too. We put them in a friend's 325i, no squeaks there either. Go figure. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
