The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 379 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Oil leak at the drain plug
  Re: Oil leak at the drain plug
  Re. Independnets, what diagnostic system do you use?
  Re: Smoke
  Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
  Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
  Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
  Re: <E30> Differential Removal
  Re: <E30> Differential Removal 
  Re: <E30> Differential Removal 
  <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
  Re: <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
  Re: <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
  Re: <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
  Re: Independents, what diagnostic system do you use?

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 14:50:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: uuc digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Oil leak at the drain plug
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Noticed that my 95 E36 (~120k) started dripping motor
oil on the garage floor the other day, it wasn't much
at all, I'd say ~1 table spoon/12hours. Went under
with a flashlight and found that it's coming from the
oil drain plug, so I just loosened the plug (which was
still kind of tight) and re-tightened it again, and I
think that might have stopped it (hopefully for good.)
 I'm using synthetic and I change all washers at every
oil change. any idea of why there is a leak there?
seems like an odd place to be leaking.

thanks,

Paul


                
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 17:54:25 -0400
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Oil leak at the drain plug
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I always make it a practise to clean up this area really well after draining
the oil & replacing the plug.  What happens is you get oil in the threads &
behind the washer squeezed out.

Also, this little lump in the oil pan on an S14 is the lowest point.  My car
actually has seeping pan gaskets, but the oil is dripping off here.  Make
sure your leak isn't coming from somewhere else.

Lee

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul T
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2004 17:50
> To: uuc digest
> Subject: [UUC] Oil leak at the drain plug
> 
> 
> Noticed that my 95 E36 (~120k) started dripping motor
> oil on the garage floor the other day, it wasn't much
> at all, I'd say ~1 table spoon/12hours. Went under
> with a flashlight and found that it's coming from the
> oil drain plug, so I just loosened the plug (which was
> still kind of tight) and re-tightened it again, and I
> think that might have stopped it (hopefully for good.)
>  I'm using synthetic and I change all washers at every
> oil change. any idea of why there is a leak there?
> seems like an odd place to be leaking.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Paul
> 
> 
>               
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> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of 
> the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 17:11:40 -0500
From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUCDigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re. Independnets, what diagnostic system do you use?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My apologies to the list.
Sorry,  I don't always have time to read all the posts when I am away on
business.  I was catching up on old posts when I see that back on the 15th
or so Brett replied to a similar question with "Autologic".  Thanks for the
site as well Brett, looks like they have some good specialty tools and info.
I will pass it on to my brother.

Andrew Harkonen (likes to ask questions that have already been answered)
'89 535i 5spd
STL BMWCCA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 15:28:54 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Smoke
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Steve, it would help if you told everyone that you were driving your E39
540i Sport.  You're welcome.  I was announcing when Steve ran.  I had to
point out that the smoke out the back was not from the flames on the side
of the car - those are magnetic.  Someone suggested that the smoke belch
was just from your cigar.    :^)

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 11:29:15 -0700
>From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: undisclosed-recipients:;
>Subject: Smoke
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>I could use some collective wisdom from the group please.
>
>Yesterday at our autox, my car belched out a cloud of oil smoke for a
>few seconds. This occurred just after a very tight right hand corner,
>high 'G', low speed.  I am told the smoke was from the exhaust pipe.
>
>The car runs just fine, oil is full, no sign of power steering fluid
>leaks. all appears pretty normal.
>
>Now for some prior history.  A month or so ago, I started to notice a
>low volume, high frequency whistle from under the hood while backing
>into my garage. This is noticeable about two out of ten times. My
>thought is that there is a small vacuum leak.  A friend that runs a shop
>seems to think the oil separator is on its way out to lunch, and his
>suggestion was to wait for an error code.
>
>So the question now is, could these two symptoms be related?  I am not
>familiar with the innards of the oil separator, but is is possible for a
>malfunctioning unit to collect a puddle of oil inside of it, and dump
>that puddle down the intake manifold during a high 'G' turn?  None of
>the malfunction indicator lights are on, and there are no stored error
>codes.
>
>Thanks in advance group,
>Steve Albrecht
>Cupertino, CA





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 15:30:41 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The Bentley manual says to replace the nuts.  I got mine at Orchard Supply.
Yes, they have metric locking nuts.  The Bentley manual does not say to
replace the flange, so I didn't.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 12:50:34 -0700
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: <E30> Differential removal 2
>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>I forgot, what's the deal with the locking nuts for the drive shaft
flange?
>More specifically, the dealer parts guy could not supply them because the
>parts system notation was not to sell the locking nuts but rather the
whole
>flange.
>
>-Kevin





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 15:32:38 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Brett, you know a lot about diffs.  You should go into business rebuilding
them.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 17:01:27 -0400
>From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Your parts guy is thinking of the pinion nut.  It, and the flange, are not
>available from BMW.
>
>BMW marks the pinion nut to the pinion during original assembly.  If you
replace
>a seal, you must line those marks up to make sure you don't change the
bearing
>pre-load.
>
>Their theory is that if you have a new nut, it won't have the mark on it.
If
>you change the pinion flange, it may not be the same height as the
original, so
>either way, the bearing pre-load will end up incorrect.
>
>Brett Anderson
>KMS




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 21:27:43 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yeah, I've thought about it, but it seems like it's too hard....

;-)

Brett Anderson
KMS
www.bmwdiffs.com


> -----Original Message-----

> Brett, you know a lot about diffs.  You should go into business rebuilding
> them.
>
> Scott Miller
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 15:33:34 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Differential Removal
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Tricks?  I never needed tricks for this.  The drive shaft has splines
between the front and back halves.  Push the rear of the drive shaft
forward, and the splines should slip to allow the forward movement.  The
dark blue-green diff oil color is not uncommon.  You've already done the
hard part!

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:29:01 -0700
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: <E30> Differential Removal
>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>We removed the limited slip from the donor car this weekend.

<snip>

>One problem we did run into was getting the drive shaft to release from
the
>input flange. Any tricks here? It's hard to get the diff. back because the
>attachment point for the side bushing wouldn't let us slide the diff
>forward enough to pull it off of the driveshaft bolts. Maybe you have to
>tie off the drive shaft after removing the differential to give more room
>for it to drop past the mounting ear.
>
>Also, when cleaning the years of grime off of the differential some of the
>lubricant came out of the vent stack. I've never seen a dark blue green
oil
>before. Pretty viscous too. Is this a BMW brand of limited slip oil?
>
>-Kevin





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 15:38:52 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Differential Removal 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mitchell and Brett,

Thanks Gents.

Good to know Amsoil was used in this diff.

Brett, your info prompts the next question. I did plan to replace the input
shaft seal which would intail removing the flange. So your input implies
re-using the flange and nut and according to Bentley retorqueing to
300ft/lbs (from memory). Could the input flange have a groove worn into it
as if possible with the output flanges? If so, what do you do then? New
diff?

Is it better to just change the output seals and leave the DS seal alone?


-Kevin



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 21:27:00 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E30> Differential Removal 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

If Bentley says 300ft/lb, they're WRONG.  That is also a spec published,
erroneously, by BMW.   You will lose your pinion bearings if you do that.

The nut and end of the pinion have a paint splotch.  The theory is that you put
the nut back on and keep turning until you line up the paint mark, but the paint
mark usually gets all beat up during removal.  Use a magic marker or hammer and
chisel to mark the nut to the pinion, before removing.

If flange has a seal groove cut into it, countersink the seal to give it a fresh
surface to run on, there's a fair amount of available room for this.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> Brett, your info prompts the next question. I did plan to replace the input
> shaft seal which would intail removing the flange. So your input implies
> re-using the flange and nut and according to Bentley retorqueing to
> 300ft/lbs (from memory). Could the input flange have a groove worn into it
> as if possible with the output flanges? If so, what do you do then? New
> diff?
>
> Is it better to just change the output seals and leave the DS seal alone?
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 16:45:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I need to change the automatic transmission fluid in
my 1993 525i.  I have the new seal and filter ready,
but I haven't been able to locate a procedure for a
"complete" fluid change.  Bentley is just a basic
drain and refill, but I would like to drain and
replace *all* the fluid in the system at once -
including torque converter, cooler, and transmission. 


The alternative is a dilution approach removing the
easily drain-able portion driving and repeating the
process - as outlined by Neil D. on his (now
nonexistent??) web site.

Any hints on a complete ATF change?

John

=====
end

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


                
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 19:56:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list)
Subject: Re: <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>From John Stewart
>
>I need to change the automatic transmission fluid in
>my 1993 525i.  I have the new seal and filter ready,
>but I haven't been able to locate a procedure for a
>"complete" fluid change.  Bentley is just a basic
>drain and refill, but I would like to drain and
>replace *all* the fluid in the system at once -
>including torque converter, cooler, and transmission. 
>

As I have never seen an E34 automatic transmission, I am going to guess
here, but how about a compressed air supply into the return line on the
filter housing (if there is a "filter housing"). It might be messy, but it
might also blow the old fluid through and out of the transmission.

-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski                       Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED]                        Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 21:28:49 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



> -----Original Message-----
> Any hints on a complete ATF change?

It can be done.  It's called a full rebuild.

There is no other way to get the other half of the fluid out.

Brett Anderson
KMS

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 22:20:33 -0700
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <e34> ATF change - how can I get all the fluid
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Mon, Sep 27, 2004 at 04:45:17PM -0700, John Stewart wrote:
> I need to change the automatic transmission fluid in
> my 1993 525i.  I have the new seal and filter ready,
> but I haven't been able to locate a procedure for a
> "complete" fluid change.  Bentley is just a basic
> drain and refill, but I would like to drain and
> replace *all* the fluid in the system at once -
> including torque converter, cooler, and transmission. 

 You can do pretty well by 1) dropping the pan and changing fluid & 
filter as planned. and 2) flushing the remaining old fluid out through 
the oil cooler lines.
 I can't be sure of the e34 unit, but in most autos, the fluid leaves
the torque converter, goes through the cooler, and returns to the pan. 
If you direct the cooler lines into a bucket, you can start the engine
and add fresh fluid to the filler neck while old fluid squirts out. 
Once fresh fluid is coming out of the cooler line, you're as done as you
can get.  The remainder of the old fluid that's still trapped in the 
various clutch packs is not much compared to what you just pumped out of 
the torque converter.

 I last did this technique on my e39 and it worked fine.  Though I had 
to force new fluid in via the return line because there ain't no 
dipstick/filler tube!

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 21:32:18 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Independents, what diagnostic system do you use?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have plenty of experience with GT-1.  I like it, but at $17,500 it's
expensive.  Couple this with the fact that as of end of this year, it's not
going to support programming or coding, and it's VERY expensive.

I have no experience with Autologic yet.  Will be in Atlanta Wednesday through
Sunday of this week at an OSS meeting and we will be demo'ing the Autologic
system.  I've heard good things about it, so will be looking closely at one for
our shop.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> I have an older brother who has been a certified BMW master tech in Atlanta
> for 5 years, with 9 years total BMW experience all at local dealerships.  He
> is striking out on his own and opening his own shop.  He is looking at
> purchasing a diagnostic machine for reading codes on all manner of BMWs.
> What do most of the independent folks on the list use instead of a DIS
> machine?  He has looked at BMWs GT1 and Autologic.  Does any one have any
> experience with either of these - Brett, Rob????  Thanks in advance for any
> help you can provide, just doing my part as a brother, trying to help him
> get started.   If you prefer, reply to him directly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Andrew Harkonen
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