The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 362 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <E30> Intermittent Tach Re: <E30> Intermittent Tach Re: Engine stand recommendations Simple Complaint Re: Simple Complaint Re: Simple Complaint Re: Simple Complaint Re: Simple Complaint Re: Thermostat Error code readers Re: Error code readers Re: Error code readers Selling lots of great M30 related items on ebay <E46 330xi> Where's the oil drain plug? Re: <E46 330xi> Where's the oil drain plug?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:52:29 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Intermittent Tach Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am sure this has been covered before, but a quick survey of the archive didn't help my feeble mind. My new-to-me 93 325ic's tach decided to quit on me yesterday. The car runs fine and the other gauges all work fine, but the the tach read zero. I just reset the SI lights and they appear to function fine. This morning at startup, the tach read zero, then started working again after a few minutes. Am I due for a few $ at Programma for a new board or is there something cheaper I should check first? Or maybe something more sinister at work? Many thanks as always... Regards, Paul Craven 93 325ic with astounding power for zero RPM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 16:24:49 -0400 (EDT) From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Intermittent Tach Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said: > I am sure this has been covered before, but a quick survey of the > archive didn't help my feeble mind. My new-to-me 93 325ic's tach > decided to quit on me yesterday. The car runs fine and the other gauges > all work fine, but the the tach read zero. I just reset the SI lights > and they appear to function fine. This morning at startup, the tach read > zero, then started working again after a few minutes. Am I due for a > few $ at Programma for a new board or is there something cheaper I > should check first? Or maybe something more sinister at work? Many > thanks as always... does it come to life if you thump the dashboard? this is a very useful test when things in the instrument cluster don't work right.. helps isolate whether it is an instrument cluster electrical problem or a real mechanical issue in E30 (the 325ic is an E30 I'm guessing, right?) instrument clusters, it is not uncommon for loose nuts (which hold the temp and gas gauge to the board) and cold solder joints (in the speedo, tach, and around the other two) to cause intermittent readings if thumping causes twitchy needles, I'd suggest pulling the cluster and taking a close look at the solder joints (and reflowing them if they have cracks) does the mpg gauge work? if it is dead also, it might indicate that the SI board batteries are flaky.. but this is usually also indicated by always-on SI lights chris pawlowicz '89 325i '99 z3 2.8 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:56:08 -0700 From: John Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Engine stand recommendations Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Generic stands can hold an engine from the side, with the right adapter. A > simple plate of steel with holes in the appropriate places, welded to a round > bar that will fit the head tube of the stand, and you're on your way. More > stable too. Did that for Saab engines at one time, Saab sold a tubular bracket that bolted to one side engine-mount pad and curved around to the rear block face, but its stand fitting was a big steel hub for their house-brand stand, not my old orange Stroppini. Bought the Saab bracket, had a piece of - what - 3" x .250-wall tubing welded to it, works fine. Still have it, though I hope not to be working on any Saab engines any time soon. John. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 11:38:53 -0500 From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I do realize when a person purchases a BMW, they had better have money to pay for all the extra's that the warranty doesn't cover. My thing now is, I was about to take it to a independent shop, but they charge just as much as the dealer. I don't know if it's because I'm a woman or what. But now, I need some belt repaired, and a gas cap, and front and back brakes. Whatever with the brakes, he's doing something so I don't have to replace the rotors. The cost is 195 for the front, and 95 for the rear. However, I'm paying 744 for an inspection II to let me know, what more money I need to dish out. This is really sad, that it becomes so costly. However, like I said I guess this comes when you have an expensive vehicle. Celisa '99 328is Lonestar Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:59:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Crappy cars also cost a lot to repair. You can continue, or lease a new model with 4 years of included service. Alternatively you can do your own work, but few elect that route. New brakes and an inspection 2 are easily done at home. Gary Derian --- Celisa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I do realize when a person purchases a BMW, they had > better have money to > pay for all the extra's that the warranty doesn't > cover. My thing now is, I > was about to take it to a independent shop, but they > charge just as much as > the dealer. I don't know if it's because I'm a woman > or what. But now, I > need some belt repaired, and a gas cap, and front > and back brakes. Whatever > with the brakes, he's doing something so I don't > have to replace the > rotors. The cost is 195 for the front, and 95 for > the rear. However, I'm > paying 744 for an inspection II to let me know, what > more money I need to > dish out. This is really sad, that it becomes so > costly. However, like I > said I guess this comes when you have an expensive > vehicle. > > > Celisa > '99 328is > Lonestar Chapter > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 13:34:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, On Tue, 14 Sep 2004, Gary Derian wrote: > Crappy cars also cost a lot to repair. You can > continue, or lease a new model with 4 years of > included service. Alternatively you can do your own > work, but few elect that route. New brakes and an > inspection 2 are easily done at home. "Easily done at home" is probably a bit of a stretch. "Reasonably Capable of being done at home" is perhaps a bit more accurate. Not trying to be a jerk, but the original poster doesn't sound like someone for whom a brake job would be "easy". And BMW parts certainly cost more than similar domestic parts, at least in my experience. There are certainly examples each way, but in general I think parts for my '93 325is are more expensive than parts have been for my '93 Toyota MR2, '99 Mazda Miata, '95 & '98 Dodge Neon, or '03 Dodge Ram. Yes, I understand those aren't equivalent vehicles. :-) I'm an autocrosser so "competitive in its class" is what I care about. Also not helping the comparison is that Toyota and Mazda have motorsports support programs. AFAIK, BMW doesn't have anything like this for the grassroots guy, but I'd _love_ to find out I'm wrong! Mark ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 17:39:07 -0500 From: "Dewig, Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In my experience, an inspection II can cost between $600 and$900. They're actually doing a lot of work in there, including fluid changes for oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, and spark plugs, and spark plug wires. (my shop was better than most, and did a few things extra for a few less dollars) I don't have a complete list, but it's a significant time input. I did a lot of shopping around the first time this happened on my '94 325i (frugal syndrome), and found most fell within this range. It sounds like the brake job you got quoted was perhaps a bit steep, but within range if they're turning the rotors. You can usually find brakes for $20-$45 a pair (parts only), but if you don't have the means to put them in yourself, the labor can be a bit much, and people typically charge $30-$60 for turning a pair of rotors depending on your location. If you were concerned about getting the shaft, I think they're not tweaking the prices too much, but it may help to shop around a bit to save a few hundred bucks. As far as the cost issue, I've had much better luck with my German automobile than a prior Honda CVCC, and given the quality/time/performance shift, my BMW doesn't even cost much more than my first auto, a '64 Ford Falcon... They're awefully proud of their alternators though... Hope this helped out a bit. Feel free to correct / harrungue me if you guys see issues with my post. I've got a lot to learn to catch up! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 06:36:49 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The BMW Bentley manual for Inspection II lists all the required checks and changes, fuel filter included. I was disappointed but not surprised when my friend with an E46 325Ci took his car into the dealership for his inspection II and paid over $500 for the checks and the only change was his oil and oil filter. Oh wait, they did change his wiper blades. And they did vacuum and wash his car, at $80 per hour I'm sure. >From what I understand now, E46s are considered lifetime fluids, so the dealership doesn't change these anymore on inspections. I did my own inspection II on both my bimmers. They are simple, but not for the person that only has an adjustable wrench and channel locks in the corner of the closet. My advice - find a friend or nice neighbor with the right tools and knowledge, remember most procedures can be found on-line (Unofficial BMW.com). etc. Phil ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 10:02:35 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Thermostat Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave, How exactly are you getting to coolant temp.? The standard gauge is filtered and not able to measure to any precision. The thermostat is a valve I'm sure that a 15 degree increase in coolant temp to 95 is within it's range of operation. The coolant temp will be conditional to the opening of the thermostat, ambient temp., load and the amount of flow over the radiator (and coolant cap condition). Did you make sure to orient the bleed hole in the right position? -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 16:16:24 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: undisclosed-recipients:; Subject: Error code readers Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Simple question for the group. What is the best code reader available for BMWs? I would like one that will also divulge the proprietary BMW codes. Numbers are just fine as I can look up the translation in my Bentley. Thanks in advance. Steve Albrecht Cupertino, CA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:31:47 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Error code readers Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.theautomotivetechshop.com Autologic. Prices are in "little" dollars, so don't get too scared when you read them. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Simple question for the group. What is the best code reader available > for BMWs? I would like one that will also divulge the proprietary BMW > codes. Numbers are just fine as I can look up the translation in my > Bentley. Thanks in advance. > > Steve Albrecht > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.762 / Virus Database: 510 - Release Date: 09/13/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 07:58:08 -0600 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Steve Albrecht'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Error code readers Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I came across this site earlier this year when I was looking for a code reader. I figured for $88 it was worth a shot. It's no frills, but it does its job without complaint, and the software works as advertised. It has worked perfectly for both my E46 328 and my Jeep GC. http://obddiagnostics.com/ No affiliation, no kickbacks, etc., etc. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Albrecht Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 5:16 PM To: undisclosed-recipients: Subject: [UUC] Error code readers Simple question for the group. What is the best code reader available for BMWs? I would like one that will also divulge the proprietary BMW codes. Numbers are just fine as I can look up the translation in my Bentley. Thanks in advance. Steve Albrecht Cupertino, CA Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:18:18 +0000 From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Selling lots of great M30 related items on ebay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Came accross a lot of genuine BMW bits, some were OK for my M20 E30 car, most were for the M30 cars. If you've got a yen for a Euro distributor, need some 745i parts, M5 auxiliary air valve, E21 brake pressure reguator -- start with auction 7922439874 and see other items. Want to clear them from my garage. Similarly if anyone has a line on map lights (A piilar do exist I am told) for the E30 -- please let me know off of digest. Greg in Geneva ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 08:39:53 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E46 330xi> Where's the oil drain plug? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I took a quick look under the wife's 2004 330xi today and couldn't see the location of the drain plug. There's some sort of plate covering most of the under-engine area, and without jacking the car nothing much was visible. Can mere mortals (those of us without lifts) change the oil in this car? Thx. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 08:16:30 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E46 330xi> Where's the oil drain plug? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> dunno if I covered this on this digest or the E36M3 digest. Go to the Tool warehouse and get a MityVac 8 quart fluid extractor. Snake a tube down the dipstick and pump a couple times.. Then reverse the switch and pump a couple more times to pump the fluid into your transfer container. Marc Plante E36 M3/4, 56k E36 325i, 220k [Gone] Vienna, VA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
