The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 374 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: [bmwuucdigest] Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Re: [bmwuucdigest] Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Re: Upper control arms bushings bad, yes or no? Pad recommendations
Re: Upper control arms bushings bad, yes or no? Pad recommendations
Re: Upper control arms bushings bad, yes or no? Pad recommendations
Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
FW: E36 'Brake Light Circuit' message
Re: FW: E36 'Brake Light Circuit' message
Re: FW: E36 'Brake Light Circuit' message
Re: How to check ball/control arm joints on an E36?
Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 21:41:22 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
If it isn't 1/4 NPT it is M1.0 pipe thread. VERY close but not exactly the
same. Seems to me that we used 1/4 NPT on the E30 325i to remote the sender
away from the engine.
Dave S
> Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 19:04:04 -0700
> From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> >2. Who knows the exact thread pitch and style of the
> >stock oil pressure switch that fits into the back of
> >the oil filter housing and do you know where I can buy
> >the adaptor? Is it 12x1.5 (probably not 1/4" NPT, what
> >is it?)?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 05:14:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Dave Swingle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Dave Swingle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If it isn't 1/4 NPT it is M1.0 pipe thread. VERY close but not
> exactly the
> same. Seems to me that we used 1/4 NPT on the E30 325i to remote the
> sender away from the engine.
E30 325i's are also M12x1.5
I intalled a set of Nordskog gauges in my E30 a few months ago so I
used the BMP adapter (M12x1.5 to 1/8 NPT) to remote mount the oil
pressure sender.
Looking to do the same in the '93 325is except I'll transfer the
Nordskogs to the E36 and put the cheapo VDOs in the E30. I take it you
guys are mounting the pressure senders right to the adapter in the
E36s? I may remote mount mine anyway, can never be too careful. :-)
Carlos.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 19:53:45 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Upper control arms bushings bad, yes or no? Pad recommendations
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Andrew (as in Baron of Dune?),
In the E32's the shaking at 55mph while braking and in the worst case at
speed is an indication of the thrust rod bushing going south.
-Kevin
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 20:16:34 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Upper control arms bushings bad, yes or no? Pad recommendations
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
What on the E36 could cause similar behavior? Could wheel bearings be
involved? I have the car up on stands wheels off right now checking the
front end and all the ball joints, bushings, tie rods, etc. look and
feel ok. All have already been replaced over the last two years.
The rotors and pads are new, lubed the caliper pivots, cleaned the
pistons, scrubbed down the rotors, flushed the fluid, yada yada, and I
don't want to have to deal with this squeeky shimmying squiggly front
end any time I step on the brakes on the way to work again tomorrow morning.
Btw, I recommend against Hawk pads, I got them on recommendation
from other digesters, and its an example of take what you like and leave
the rest. These pads squeek with a screech right before reaching a full
stop more annoyingly than MetalMasters.
Humbly baffled,
Barry
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Andrew (as in Baron of Dune?),
>In the E32's the shaking at 55mph while braking and in the worst case at
>speed is an indication of the thrust rod bushing going south.
>-Kevin
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 05:08:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Upper control arms bushings bad, yes or no? Pad recommendations
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Btw, I recommend against Hawk pads, I got them on recommendation
>
> from other digesters, and its an example of take what you like and
> leave
> the rest. These pads squeek with a screech right before reaching a
> full stop more annoyingly than MetalMasters.
Hawks noisy? Naaaaaa.... :-)
Dude you buy them because you want to outbrake everyone else out there
not because they're quiet or keep your wheels clean! That should've
been clear from everyone's recommendations, I know I mention it
everytime I recommend Hawks.
Carlos
93 325is w/Porterfield R4S, so so pads IMO better than most I guess
88 325is w/Hawk HP+, I can outscreech the garbage truck in the morning
but I love these pads, simply awesome. :-)
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 23:30:14 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
BMW's engine mounted senders are usually M12x1.5 or M14x1.5. I believe all the
oil senders are M12x1.5
Brett Anderson
KMS
> -----Original Message-----
> 2. Who knows the exact thread pitch and style of the
> stock oil pressure switch that fits into the back of
> the oil filter housing and do you know where I can buy
> the adaptor? Is it 12x1.5 (probably not 1/4" NPT, what
> is it?)?
---
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 07:52:56 -0400
From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi Pete,
I did the exact same thing for my 93 325i, I made my own kit. To answer your
question, Yes, the Oil sender threads are M12x1.5. I would also go the route of
the 0-80 PSI gauge. I have the 100PSI gauge, but you loose some resolution.
I dont know how you were planning on incorporating all the senders into the
stock oil filter housing, but when I did mine, I made my own oil distrubiton
block out of aluminum. I have made about 2 dozen and have sold them to others
making their own gauge kits. I was making enough for a while, I started getting
them CNC'd instead of making them by hand, and I have a few left over Im looking
to get rid of. Here are a few pictures of it:
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter Thoeming
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 9:30 PM
To: uucdigest
Subject: [UUC] Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
I have a 93 325is with the M50 motor and I wish to
start adding some oil temp/pressure, water temp, and
voltage gauges. I will not be spending $380 for the
BavarianAutosport or BMP gauge assembly, but I have
two questions regarding install of an oil pressure
sender/gauge.
I noticed that they typically show a 0 to 150PSI oil
pressure gauge in the ad for there 3 gauge in-dash
product, but if I read my Bentley correctly, the 325is
has about 7 PSI idle and maxes around 60 PSI at
WOT/MAX RPM. Maybe I misread something.
1. Wouldn't I rather have a 0 to 80 PSI gauge for
greater resolution for bone-stock and 0 to 100 PSI for
racing (if I shim the pressure regulator)???
2. Who knows the exact thread pitch and style of the
stock oil pressure switch that fits into the back of
the oil filter housing and do you know where I can buy
the adaptor? Is it 12x1.5 (probably not 1/4" NPT, what
is it?)?
Thanks - making my own VDO gauge assembly for about
1/3 the price (I hope),
Pete
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 07:55:05 -0400
From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sorry about that last email, It was meant to go to Pete, and it wasnt even done
yet. I haven't had enough coffee yet this morning..
Jesse C.
--99 Imola Red M3
--93 Alpine White 325i
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 07:20:14 -0400
From: "Jerome & Chinthika Welte" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FW: E36 'Brake Light Circuit' message
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Lately my E36 M3 has frequently been displaying a message on the OBC
reading: "Brake Light Circuit.....Check Owners Manual". The 'Check
Control' light on the dash also illuminates. This happens randomly when
applying the brakes, but once the message appears, I can't clear it
until I restart the engine (then sometimes it comes back on at the first
application of the brake pedal).
Of course the owners manual doesn't mention the code. I've checked the
brake lights when the message first appears (jam a snow scraper to not
release the brake pedal) and all lights are functioning.
Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting or what part is failing?
Thanks,
Jerome
'89 951 (track beast)
'98 M3 (daily driver)
'90 F-150 (tow mule and Home Depot runner)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 07:04:33 -0500
From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FW: E36 'Brake Light Circuit' message
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
It's the brake light switch on the pedal assembly. The part is about $25
and here is a good write-up on the repair:
http://www.logun.org/brake.htm
Malcolm
'88 M5
'98 328i
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jerome &
Chinthika Welte
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 6:20 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] com
Subject: [UUC] FW: E36 'Brake Light Circuit' message
Lately my E36 M3 has frequently been displaying a message on the OBC
reading: "Brake Light Circuit.....Check Owners Manual". The 'Check
Control' light on the dash also illuminates. This happens randomly when
applying the brakes, but once the message appears, I can't clear it
until I restart the engine (then sometimes it comes back on at the first
application of the brake pedal).
Of course the owners manual doesn't mention the code. I've checked the
brake lights when the message first appears (jam a snow scraper to not
release the brake pedal) and all lights are functioning.
Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting or what part is failing?
Thanks,
Jerome
'89 951 (track beast)
'98 M3 (daily driver)
'90 F-150 (tow mule and Home Depot runner)
Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:06:12 -0500
From: "Dewig, Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FW: E36 'Brake Light Circuit' message
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Lately my E36 M3 has frequently been displaying a message on the OBC
>reading: "Brake Light Circuit.....Check Owners Manual". The 'Check
Control' light on
>the dash also illuminates. This happens randomly when applying the brakes,
but once the
>message appears, I can't clear it until I restart the engine (then
sometimes it comes
>back on at the first application of the brake pedal).
I've had this same issue, and found that your computer will sense when the
voltage is not quite right. This includes when the brake light filament is
old, oxidizing, and about to go out. You can take out the bulbs one by one,
and replace the one (or ones) that have a dark discolored patch on the bulb.
This is another signal of filament oxidation. $1.37 is nicer than $25, and
I've gone over a year without the "brake light circuit" message.
Mike D.
'94 325i
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:15:02 -0400
From: "Bill Heumann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: How to check ball/control arm joints on an E36?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> May I extend the thread to include how to check for shimmy due to
wheel bearing problems, where the shimmy is >exaggerated on braking?
>There was some shimmy on braking on my '97 E36 with 40k mile old pads
and rotors, now with new Zimmerman rotors and >Hawk pads the shimmy is
just as bad, but with a faster period of oscillation than before. And
the Hawk pads squeek >embarassingly awful enough to replace them first
excuse I get, while the old Mintex pads never made a peep, though
>Mintex did fade easily.
> Both the prior and recent brake job I used a liberal application
(after all I _am a liberal ;-) ) of the
>Bavarian Autosport anti-squeel paste on the back of the pads. Aso
cleaned the new rotor surfaces with Castrol
>Super Clean and a Scotchbrite pad. This time, in addition to a full
brake fluid flush, I removed the caliper
>pistons and cleaned them and the inside of the caliper chambers.
>So after all that work this shimmy is horribly frustrating.
I would assume you are using the Hawk HP Plus pads since it sounds like
it is mostly street use. They are some of the loudest squealing brakes I
have seen (or heard) . I usually put them on for the track and go back
to OEM pads afterwards because of the embarrassment associated with
sounding like a school bus. I recently used a small amount of an anti
squeal "glue" some friends were using. I picked it up at Auto Zone. I
am not sure if this is the same as the stuff you got from Bavarian. This
stuff is orange in color and is like a high temperature silicone RTV in
consistency. Three weeks after driving at Mid Ohio I still have my Hawks
on with almost no squeaking! The stuff is great! It only is applied
where the caliper and piston touch the brake pad. If you want the exact
name, contact me directly and I'll read it off the label tonight.
>If its wheel bearings going bad, is there a DIY shade tree method
without needing special pullers listed on any of >the unofficial BMW
sites?
>tia,
>Barry
If you need to change your front wheel hub/bearings the procedure isn't
so bad. I got a great step by step procedure from Neil Mahler about six
months ago when I needed to change one of mine. He lists a Sears puller
that sells for about $35 that worked great. Again, if Neil is reading
this perhaps he can shed more light on this. If not I will be glad to
scan (I still have a printed copy of the email) and send it to you. The
only thing difficult about changing the front hubs is getting the large
axle nut off. If you have or can borrow a "BIG" impact gun, do it.
Removing the axle nut (BFN) takes about 5 seconds in this case
verses...(well, you will see......).
Regards,
Bill Heumann
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Please visit our website at www.fkinc.com to see how Fisher-Klosterman, Inc. can solve
your product recovery, dust collection, air pollution control and refractory problems.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:04:35 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
on 9/22/04 9:04 PM, Peter Thoeming <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have a 93 325is with the M50 motor and I wish to
> start adding some oil temp/pressure, water temp, and
> voltage gauges. I will not be spending $380 for the
> BavarianAutosport or BMP gauge assembly, but I have
> two questions regarding install of an oil pressure
> sender/gauge.
>
> I noticed that they typically show a 0 to 150PSI oil
> pressure gauge in the ad for there 3 gauge in-dash
> product, but if I read my Bentley correctly, the 325is
> has about 7 PSI idle and maxes around 60 PSI at
> WOT/MAX RPM. Maybe I misread something.
No you didn't misread anything, and yes, the outfits that sell 150 psi oil
pressure gauges for the E36 are brain-dead.
> 1. Wouldn't I rather have a 0 to 80 PSI gauge for
> greater resolution for bone-stock
Yep!
> and 0 to 100 PSI for
> racing (if I shim the pressure regulator)???
My sense is that you want good reliable oil pressure, not necessarily more
of it. The E36 is known for oil starvation/pickup issues under track
conditions, and a higher max pressure isn't going to fix that. 100 times
zero is still zero <g>
For racing use you need an oil pressure warning switch with a higher
threshold than the stock item; maybe 15+ psi. Hook it up to a giant red
warning light right in your field of vision.
> 2. Who knows the exact thread pitch and style of the
> stock oil pressure switch that fits into the back of
> the oil filter housing and do you know where I can buy
> the adaptor? Is it 12x1.5 (probably not 1/4" NPT, what
> is it?)?
It's M12x1.5. Lot's of people sell E36 oil distribution blocks which
accommodate the stock switch plus an oil temp and/or pressure sensor. One
good source for complete kits is:
http://www.easternmotorwerks.com
or you can see a distribution block at:
http://store.yahoo.com/jtdesigs/oildisbloc.html
Here is an excellent source for gauge components:
http://www.egauges.com
Neil
96 M3
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:50:31 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
On Sep 23, 2004, at 6:04 AM, Neil Maller wrote:
>> and 0 to 100 PSI for
>> racing (if I shim the pressure regulator)???
>
> My sense is that you want good reliable oil pressure, not necessarily
> more
> of it. The E36 is known for oil starvation/pickup issues under track
> conditions, and a higher max pressure isn't going to fix that. 100
> times
> zero is still zero <g>
>
> For racing use you need an oil pressure warning switch with a higher
> threshold than the stock item; maybe 15+ psi. Hook it up to a giant red
> warning light right in your field of vision.
I have a big warning light (ABL - Hi Jim!) hooked up to a 30psi switch
in the race car. It generally comes on briefly in certain corners at
certain tracks (ie Thunderhill: braking into 2, braking into 5
sometimes, braking and turning into 11).
I recently installed the Turner Oil Pan Baffle. That helped immensely.
Now I get the occasional flicker but that's all.
Oh, I used VDO gauges (80psi oil pressure) and a JTD block. The gauges
are mounted in a custom plate where the center air vent/radio/HVAC
controls used to be. I used the Eastern Motorwerks wiring harness,
which was much easier than fabricating one myself.
- Mark
E36 325is, JP/A5 #117
-----
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 09:39:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Oil pressure gauge and sender questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Does anyone know if the JT Designs oil distribution block works on M52TU
engines (eg. E46 2.8L engine)? If not, is there an alternative? I have a
complete gauge kit uninstalled so far because I really don't want to use
the oil temp sender, with its lower-than-normal torque setting, as the oil
drain plug.
--Andre
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
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