The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 364 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E30 Electrical Qusetion Smog Check 2 w/chip? Re: Smog Check 2 w/chip? Re: Smog Check 2 w/chip? Re: Simple Complaint Re: Simple Complaint Re: Simple Complaint Re: Simple Complaint 1998 E38 750iL <E30> DME/Chip Question E30 325IS seats? Re: clutch pedal problem Re: Turbos Re: Electrical Qusetion [sic] Re: clutch pedal problem
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 03:45:35 GMT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E30 Electrical Qusetion Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I bet chances are very good that your problem is simply a loose grounding post on the tach. Check this before you crank up the soldering iron. You can even tighten the nuts on the posts without disconnecting all of the harnesses and pulling the cluster completely out of the car. Of course, tighten all of them while you are there cuz soon your speedo or temp gauge, etc., will start to show the same symptom. Mike A From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Many thanks to Chris Pawlowicz who suggested that I thump my dashboard to get the tach going again in my 93 325ic. I did and it worked, so apparently I will need to "reflow" some solder joints on the board. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 00:12:27 -0700 From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Smog Check 2 w/chip? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My car for a due for its biannual smog check. It hasn't had any problem passing the sniffer-only test in the past, but the dyno/treadmill Smog Check II is now required in this area. Like many other older BMWs, I've been assigned to a test-only station. My car has one of the original home-grown Jim C chips. Should I remove it? Any caveats from somebody who's been through this process already? I already know to get the cats hot before going in. TIA, Herman ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 07:21:58 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Herman Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Smog Check 2 w/chip? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> herman, I have an '89 E30 325i with jimC chip (before he was even selling them!) and we have the dyno type emissions testing here.. I changed cap& rotor + plugs & o2 sensor because they were all due anyways, ran the car for a week or so to let things settle in, took the car for a nice higher rpm 1 hour drive, and then had it tested. (it passed with flying colours) chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Herman Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 3:12 AM Subject: [UUC] Smog Check 2 w/chip? > My car for a due for its biannual smog check. > > It hasn't had any problem passing the sniffer-only test in the past, > but the dyno/treadmill Smog Check II is now required in this area. > Like many other older BMWs, I've been assigned to a test-only station. > > My car has one of the original home-grown Jim C chips. Should I remove it? > > Any caveats from somebody who's been through this process already? I > already know to get the cats hot before going in. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 08:19:25 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Smog Check 2 w/chip? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 12:12 AM 9/16/04, Herman Chan talked about: >My car has one of the original home-grown Jim C chips. Should I remove it? Shouldn't have to. >Any caveats from somebody who's been through this process already? I >already know to get the cats hot before going in. I put in new spark plugs and a clean air filter before getting my 1998 M3 tested. Conveniently planned to run an 80-mile errand right before test so the cats were really hot. Passed no problem, with JimC software installed. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - good for another 2 years 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - due next year, should be interesting :-) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 11:16:35 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Celisa, I think the biggest advantage of using a reputable independent is in having the job done *right*, rather than in having it done more cheaply. And even paying more up front may work out to be less expensive over time, if you keep the car long enough. Regarding inspection II, I think I paid $750 in Houston for my son's E36 recently. It's definitely a lot of stuff to check, and from the extensive notes I got back, it's evident that the items were actually checked. I've never been all that confident that the dealers actually do everything on the list. Scott > >My thing now is, I >was about to take it to a independent shop, but they charge just as much as >the dealer. ... I'm >paying 744 for an inspection II _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 07:46:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't use mechanics, but IMHO the best reason for using an independent is getting to know the guy doing the work. You become a person, not an inanimate shop order. Develop a relationship and he will not try to cheat you because he wants you to come back. Gary Derian --- Scott Staewen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Celisa, > I think the biggest advantage of using a reputable > independent is in having > the job done *right*, rather than in having it done > more cheaply. And even > paying more up front may work out to be less > expensive over time, if you > keep the car long enough. Regarding inspection II, I > think I paid $750 in > Houston for my son's E36 recently. It's definitely a > lot of stuff to check, > and from the extensive notes I got back, it's > evident that the items were > actually checked. I've never been all that > confident that the dealers > actually do everything on the list. > > Scott ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 07:55:12 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Couldn't agree more. Typically they aren't that much cheaper, but you're not a faceless name to them. I rarely use a mechanic, only for things I don't have the time or tools to do, but I still buy my mechanic a gift for xmas. After 3 years I pretty much consider him a friend. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Derian Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 7:47 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Simple Complaint I don't use mechanics, but IMHO the best reason for using an independent is getting to know the guy doing the work. You become a person, not an inanimate shop order. Develop a relationship and he will not try to cheat you because he wants you to come back. Gary Derian --- Scott Staewen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Celisa, > I think the biggest advantage of using a reputable > independent is in having > the job done *right*, rather than in having it done > more cheaply. And even > paying more up front may work out to be less > expensive over time, if you > keep the car long enough. Regarding inspection II, I > think I paid $750 in > Houston for my son's E36 recently. It's definitely a > lot of stuff to check, > and from the extensive notes I got back, it's > evident that the items were > actually checked. I've never been all that > confident that the dealers > actually do everything on the list. > > Scott Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 11:39:14 -0500 From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Simple Complaint Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I had a independent dealer back in Virginia that worked on my bimmers, I've had 3. But since I've been in Texas, I haven't been able to find one, so I have been going to the dealer, hoping they are doing the job correctly. Celisa ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2004 11:16 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] Simple Complaint > Celisa, > I think the biggest advantage of using a reputable independent is in > having the job done *right*, rather than in having it done more cheaply. > And even paying more up front may work out to be less expensive over time, > if you keep the car long enough. Regarding inspection II, I think I paid > $750 in Houston for my son's E36 recently. It's definitely a lot of stuff > to check, and from the extensive notes I got back, it's evident that the > items were actually checked. I've never been all that confident that the > dealers actually do everything on the list. > > Scott > >> >>My thing now is, I >>was about to take it to a independent shop, but they charge just as much >>as >>the dealer. ... I'm >>paying 744 for an inspection II > > _________________________________________________________________ > Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! > http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 07:44:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Nick Ortwein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 1998 E38 750iL Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am considering purchasing a 1998 750iL. Black/Black 18" AC's and the Nav system. The car has about 50k miles and they are asking $21K for the car. Is this a good deal? Also, I would like to hear from owners of this car 1995-2001 750iL's. What are the typical, and not so typical, problems you have had with the car? What do you spend yearly to keep your car in top running condition? I owned a 91 E32 750 years ago and loved it. Thanks in advance for your replies, Nick Ortwein San Diego, CA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 11:16:54 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> DME/Chip Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rough week or two here, I feel like a newbie with all these questions. But hey traffic is low on the digest, so I consider it to be my duty to keep things rolling. Anyhoo, being the cheap bahstahd that I am, I have been seeking a used JC or Dinan chip for my new-to-me 93 325ic. I know a new chip is only $250, but that's 5% of the cost of the car :^) My car has a "525" DME, I have found chips for 373 and 380 DME's (thanks Mike and Carlos!). Is there an interchange for chips between DME's? Dinan lists different part numbers for every DME number, but if I was selling chips, I would too. I am not faulting Dinan or the Landshark folks for wanting to make money (both are great products IMHO), but I would like to know if the chips really are different for each DME or if perhaps some of them are interchangeable. My understanding is that the DME's are interchangeable, so I makes some degree of sense to my feeble mind that the chips could be as long as they will physically fit. Anyone BTDT? Regards, Paul Craven 93 325ic - new RSM's last night, original 108k mounts had 3/4" holes clear through! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 12:34:43 -0400 From: Don Stevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 325IS seats? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >The seat that came in the e30 325is is a racing inspired seat, but will it accept a 5 point harness. If so, has anyone else >done it or have any tips on how to do it? Hi They are really nice seats, I would call them "sport" seats VS racing inspired. They do not accept a five point harness in the true safety sense as they have no holes for the shoulder belts or the anti-submarine belt. Some people make a small slit under the seat to pass the AS belt thru. I did not like this because there is allot of metal under there that can chafe the belt. I just looped the end of the AS belt around the bottom from of the seat frame and brought the buckle end up around the front of the seat bottom. Even this is flawed because the proper mounting point for the AS belt is to a hook eye bolted thru the floor of the car backed up on the underside by a good size metal plate and not to the seat itself which can break away in a crash. Same goes for the lap belts, avoid mounting them to the seat and use the hard points where the stock belts attach. This will require you install a reinforced hook eye on the drivers right hand side. You can use the factory mounting point on the drivers left side. The shoulder belts need to be attached to a harness bar or to the mounting (hard) points for the rear stock seat belts right where the bottom of the back of the back seat falls. Hook and eyes are the best for this because if you bolt the belts in you will need to bend the tab up in the direction of the torsional pull of the belt and this method is flaky at best. Then you have the issue of the shoulder belts not passing thru holes on the seat like a race seat has. Not much you can do here other than get a racing seat (Sparco Sprint is a good cheap FIA approved race seat $229). When I used the stock seat I bought Simpson shoulder belts in the "H" configuration. All this is, is a piece of webbing that connects the two shoulder belts together behind the seat and discourages them from separating and coming off your shoulders in a crash. So this setup requires that your 5 point belts have snap hooks on all ends and eyes installed where required to snap them to. This also makes it easy to remove the belts after the track day. Put safety first. Don Stevenson BMWCCA Boston 1988 325IS KP#49 1987 325IS Street **************************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank you. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 10:04:42 -0700 From: Peter B Du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: clutch pedal problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The clutch master is bad. The master internal return spring has broken and is pushing on the seal allowing the fluid to return under the slaves pressure. Try depressing the pedal only part way, this may disengage the clutch enough to allow you to drive without fluid leaking around the seal. Peter ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 10:05:31 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Turbos Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To re-visit this subject..... I am catching up on Roundel reading and noticed in the "Heard on the Strasse" column that there is a rumor the new M3 will offer the 400hp V8 and a 300hp **turboed** inline 6. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 10:27:15 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Electrical Qusetion [sic] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris says: "sometimes it helps if the soldering iron is wetted first with solder (get a small amount of flux-core solder in a very small size suitable for electronics stuff)" Chris this is always a good technique. On PCB's the traces are also covered with a conformal coating. It makes it difficult to "repair" a trace unless the coating is removed. The usual cause of opens on the BMW boards I've worked on are solder joints. In the worst cases you can see a discoloration or even blackening of the areas around the conical solder joint. In some cases you can also see a hairline crack. Traces can be ohmed out to determine integrity rather than reflowing all of them. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 13:39:44 -0400 From: "JohnGrills\(Home\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "L & J Howe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: clutch pedal problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jeff, I had a similar symptom with my 88 iX....turned out to be a bad clutch master cylinder (it was leakin). Oh yeah, found out the hard way the importance of bleeding the clutch hydraulics when doing the brake fluid maintenance....the fluid was a MESS, not likely it had ever been changed. Real PITA job to get at this with yr head up under the dash...hope this helps. r/ John Grills Alexandria VA 88M3 88iX 88iC -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of L & J Howe Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2004 9:23 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] clutch pedal problem The clutch pedal stayed close to the floor today as I pulled away from a stop. The car pulled through first, I shifted into second and reached down and pulled the pedal back up. There was a slight "catch" but no real resistance as the pedal came up. The car drove normally for the mile left in my trip home. I won't have time to look at it until the weekend, am I going to get stranded if I drive it? The car is a '85 535 with 177xxx, it is in need of a new rear crank seal, I imagine an oil soaked clutch. Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks, Jeff Howe Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
