The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 394 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E34 M30 Error Code 1222 Re: Brake light switch Re: Brake light switch Chasing an oil leak Re: Chasing an oil leak E30 Seat Heaters Re: E30 Seat Heaters Re: E30 Seat Heaters <E36> ICV Replacement Tricks? FS: E36/E30 M3 parts, truck, trailer Re: Is my Center Bearing bad? <E30> Cursed Mirror Shake E34 rear caliper rebuild Re: E34 rear caliper rebuild Re: E34 rear caliper rebuild
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 14:52:37 -0500 From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E34 M30 Error Code 1222 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, Folks. After 14 years and 154,000 miles, the ole gal has thrown her first Check Engine light. The 5 stomp test shows a 1222 fault code and Bentley says this is an "oxygen sensor too lean" error. The light is not constant and comes and goes. When the light is on, the engine stumbles and has no power. Runs well on the open road. It's probably my fault, since I gave the engine a bath on Sunday afternoon after a water pumpectomy. You think this is just moisture in the oxygen sensor connector? Other connectors to consider? Computer and fuse boxes are tight and dry. The current O2 sensor has about 70,000 miles on it. Cheers, Robert '90 535i _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 13:16:56 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Brake light switch Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Pingger, two questions: 1. When you step on the brake pedal, do the brake lights come on? Don't depend on the check control light to tell you, do a visual verification. If the lights come on, then the switch is not bad. 2. If not, can you get the lights to come on by shorting the leads at the switch? If so, then it is the switch. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 19:24:08 -0700 >From: Ping Gordo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Brake light switch >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I replaced the brake light switch yesterday and as soon as I got done, >I tested the new switch but it still has the same "brake light failure" >message. What are the chances that the brand new switch I installed is >bad too or should I start looking somewhere else? All suggestions >welcome. > >TIA > >Pingger <----- scratching head (maybe because of dandruff) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 17:01:51 -0500 From: "Dewig, Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Brake light switch Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> One other thing to check if all your lights are fine, and the brake circuit message light still comes on, is in a hot climate (happened in my first summer in Las Vegas) the plastic separators inside the light holder mechanism can melt and short circuit the contactors. A short term (and low cost) solution to this is to turn the light holder slightly off of seated so it's not quite sitting in its "notch" and use the emergency brake instead of the foot brake during stop lights so that the light heat doesn't melt the separator during a 15 minute wait to cross the strip during 117 degree weather. Again. I'm not sure what a long term solution might be... Please enlighten me if you know! Thanks Mike DeWig '94 325/170K "Sabine" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 20:55:47 -0700 From: "Scott Hung" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Chasing an oil leak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi All, I'm chasing an oil leak on my '99 M3. When I originally was under the car I found that it was dripping onto the rear-most O2 sensor (passenger-side, rear of the motor). After talking to fellow M3 owners I replaced the valve cover gasket thinking this maybe the culprit, but it still leaks. Shame on me for not tracking it all the way down! However, I can't find the source of the leak! By feel, it seems the rear of the cylinder head is dry. The side of the head seems dry as well. So, I'm at a loss where the oil can be coming from? I have to admit I haven't figure out how to get tools onto the O2 sensor in such a tight area! Any tips what maybe leaking in that region? Or on O2 sensor removal? Thanks, Scott ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 14:29:14 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Chasing an oil leak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -----Original Message----- >From: Scott Hung <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Oct 11, 2004 11:55 PM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [UUC] Chasing an oil leak > >Hi All, > >I'm chasing an oil leak on my '99 M3. When I originally was under the car I >found that it was dripping onto the rear-most O2 sensor (passenger-side, >rear of the motor). <snipped> >I have to admit I haven't >figure out how to get tools onto the O2 sensor in such a tight area! > >Any tips what maybe leaking in that region? Or on O2 sensor removal? Scott, I can't help you with the oil leak, but I use an O2 sensor socket (available at Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.) and a flex-head ratchet on the O2 sensor on my 94 325i. I assume your 99 M3 is similar with regard to the limited clearance between the sensor and the floorboard. If you can find a flex-head ratchet which allows you to lock the head at different angles that may be helpful. It usually takes a fair bit of torque to break the O2 sensor loose due to the cruddy environment it resides in so you may need a cheater pipe. I think crow's foot heads are also available in the correct size for O2 sensors which may be a good option. I never really checked them out as I already had an O2 sensor socket from a previous vehicle that had easier access and I was able to make it work on the bimmer. HTH, Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 17:12:50 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 Seat Heaters Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone ever try to install seat heaters into non-heated seats on an E30? Is it reasonably possible to alter the seats to accept the heaters? Aren't the heater units very expensive from BMW? Any other source, new or used? Perhaps heaters from another car (i.e. cheaper), as long as you are doing a conversion anyway? Thanks, Stan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 16:27:38 -0500 From: Christian Els <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Seat Heaters Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I gutted the heaters from my decrepit stock cloth seats and inserted them into a pair of Sport seats in my E30. I would call this job a 4/10, most of the difficulty lies in undoing the leather from the seat frame, the rest in situating the heater elements. I loosened just the ends of the leather, then used a thin steel rule to work the heater elements down between the foam and the leather. Both seats together took about 3 hours including installing them in the car again. I didn't have to futz with wires since I already had heated seats and was only upgrading the seats themselves. Add an hour or two to run the wiring if need be... Cheers, Christian Els Columbia, MO On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 17:12:50 -0400, Stan Jackson Jr. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Anyone ever try to install seat heaters into non-heated seats on an E30? Is > it reasonably possible to alter the seats to accept the heaters? > > Aren't the heater units very expensive from BMW? Any other source, new or > used? Perhaps heaters from another car (i.e. cheaper), as long as you are > doing a conversion anyway? > > Thanks, > > Stan > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 17:48:55 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Seat Heaters Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cool. I have a car that is outfitted for heated seats, but the seats in it are non-heated (swapped by PO). It is a nice red leather interior, which I would like to keep. Now I just have to find a set of working heating elements. Anybody out there? My semi-local junk yard no longer allows people in the yard (otherwise I'd search for an otherwise ruined set). Buying a set of heated seats and having them shipped just for the purpose of ripping out the heating elements sounds expensive. Stan ----- Original Message ----- From: Christian Els <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Stan Jackson Jr. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 5:27 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 Seat Heaters > I gutted the heaters from my decrepit stock cloth seats and inserted > them into a pair of Sport seats in my E30. > > I would call this job a 4/10, most of the difficulty lies in undoing > the leather from the seat frame, the rest in situating the heater > elements. I loosened just the ends of the leather, then used a thin > steel rule to work the heater elements down between the foam and the > leather. > > Both seats together took about 3 hours including installing them in > the car again. I didn't have to futz with wires since I already had > heated seats and was only upgrading the seats themselves. Add an hour > or two to run the wiring if need be... > > Cheers, > > > Christian Els > Columbia, MO > > > > On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 17:12:50 -0400, Stan Jackson Jr. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Anyone ever try to install seat heaters into non-heated seats on an E30? Is > > it reasonably possible to alter the seats to accept the heaters? > > > > Aren't the heater units very expensive from BMW? Any other source, new or > > used? Perhaps heaters from another car (i.e. cheaper), as long as you are > > doing a conversion anyway? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Stan > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 20:21:01 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E36> ICV Replacement Tricks? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A friend of mine bought a '94 325i. Indications are that the idle control valve needs to be cleaned or replaced. Given the difficulty in just getting to the thing, he's gonna replace it. Are there any tricks to doing this without removing the intake manifold? He ordered a Bentley manual for the car, but it hasn't arrived yet. TIA, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 08:25:43 -0400 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS: E36/E30 M3 parts, truck, trailer Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Got some stuff to get rid of....email with questions. I can deliver anything to Mid Ohio except for the trailer but you can see the trailer there and it's available pretty much right after, I just have to get the car home. ; ) 2003 Ford F350 SRW. 41k miles, diesel, 4WD, crew cab, black/gray. Many options including power pedals/seats, trailer tow mirrors, privacy glass, auto trans, 3.73 LS diff, upgraded aluminum wheels, newer tires, Rhino liner, Leer cap...lots. Will be at Mid Ohio, email with questions. I have it listed on Autotrader as well, asking $33k OBO. 2003 (or maybe 2002, can't remember at the moment) Haulmark 22' enclosed trailer, used for roughly 3 seasons, excellent shape. It's a bare model, not really any options. Color is gray, interior is plain plywood, has 2 interior lights, diamond plate on the front, a roof vent, side door and drop rear door with slight beavertail. 7000# GTWR, twin axle, brakes on both axles with breakaway protection. Comes with a weight distributing hitch and sway control. The hitch is good for either 10k or 12k lbs, can't remember which...has bars and hitch w/ 2 5/16 ball. This trailer has been great for me, I tow my car, 3 sets of wheels, spares, tools, extras and it tows great, always reliable, no issues except for a dent in the upper corner which happened on the day I picked it up, got hit by a stiff branch on a narrow road. $3600 OBO, available right after Mid Ohio, will be at Mid Ohio for viewing. E36 stuff: Custom Fluidyne radiator w/oil cooler. Has a couple custom brackets, a couple hoses (one is Samco silicon, upper I think), never used, brand new. Lots of taps for temp, etc. This is VERY nice! I bought it from Alex L, he paid over $1k for it all, I paid $800 which is what I'd like to get. Hoosier rain tires (like the Motorola cup tires, hand cut), used but decent shape, size is 245/35/18, set of 4, $275/set. Porsche Brembo front brake kit (993 turbo 4 pot calipers), used for a few seasons. Includes calipers, brackets (for E36 M3), set of hats/discs (used). Calipers should be rebuilt but I ran them once this year and other than being a little sticky they worked fine. $1250 Porsche Brembo front brake kit (993 turbo 4 pot calipers), used once. Includes calipers, brackets (for E36 M3), set of hats/discs (discs used for one event), pair of used lines (used for about 2 seasons, good shape) set of Hawk HT10's (used for one event). Since this stuff was only used once, it's basically brand new, excellent shape, install and use. $1750 NOTE: I also have several sets of used Hawk pads, will include a set of 2 with each kit above. E36 wheels, 15x7 ET35 (ITS legal), MOMO something or other w/center caps, great for practice or rains or an extra set. Set of 4 wheels, no tires mounted, $275/set E30 M3 stuff: 3 sets of Schrick S14 valve spring retainers (titanium), brand new, never installed. For use with 292/284/276 cams. Each set will do one head, $300/set 2 sets of Schrick oversized valves, brand new, never installed. Each set includes a set of valve spring keepers (Schrick, brand new also). Size is 38mm intake and 32mm exhaust. $350/set Rear bumper cover, fine shape, some scuffs, no real damage. Factory part, black. $150 Pair of doors in black, all mechanicals including glass/motors/etc. No panels, no mirrors, some rust on the bottom of each, no accidents, all mechanicals worked excellent upon removal. $150/pair Rear decklid, no spoiler, black. Some scuffs, scratches but otherwise fine. $60 Like I said, I can deliver anything to Mid Ohio. Most stuff can be shipped, some would be pretty costly but I can try to make arrangments, shipping cost is the responsibility of the buyer. Seeya at Mid Ohio! Thanks! Jack Money Elephant Motorsports Inc. #86 CM M3 '91 M3 [Attachment of type application/ms-tnef removed.] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 08:53:32 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Is my Center Bearing bad? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 8:01 AM -0700 10/11/04, igor koruga wrote: [snip] >Canit be possible that this noise is coming from driveshaft's center >bearing? [snip] My symptom for a bad driveshaft load bearing was that I heard a scraping sound when moving slowly in reverse. Forward was OK. Well, at least I didn't hear it. My hearing isn't what it used to be. At first we thought it was a brake shield scraping against the rotor. But when the car was on the lift it was clear the noise was the center load bearing. We also replaced the flex disc at the same time since the driveshaft was down and the disc was old. -- ...steven 2006 BMW M2 <wishful thinking> 2003 Mini Cooper S +20000 miles 1996 BMW 328ti +184000 miles 1990 Mazda MX6 +201000 miles ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 08:49:10 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Cursed Mirror Shake Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, I thought I'd share my solution to this PITA. I removed the mirror (twist it 1/3 turn) and drilled and tapped a hole right through the middle of the circle shaped opening in the back ( I used an 8-32 tap). Be careful here, the mirror base is made of fine German pot metal and will strip or crack easily. Then thread a 3/4" long screw into the hole. Finally before you reinstall the mirror, take a small screwdriver and gently bend the three wire clips toward the center of the round opening. Reinstall the mirror and gently tighten the set screw to eliminate any remaining play. You could paint the set screw black to make it blend in better, but it isn't really visible from the drivers seat anyway. Loctite on the threads may be required, but so far it's holding for me. Takes 15 minutes if you have all the tools handy. Regards, Paul Craven 93 325ic (yes it's an E30) Now with greatly improved rearward vision and recently deleted cold shower rain warning option! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 12:11:54 -0500 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 rear caliper rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Need to rebuild a brake caliper on the rear of a '93 525iT w/o ASC etc.. Bentley diagram shows a retaining clip on the piston, but instructions w/the rebuild kit (ATE) make no mention of such. Can anybody confirm that there is no such clip? Also, I don't have compressed are available (yet). Could I use pedal pressure IF I did something to prevent the piston from shooting out, that is, in small increments? TIA Clarence West Bend, WI ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 13:42:53 -0400 From: "Bruno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Clarence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 rear caliper rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I rebuilt a lot of callipers for E34s, there isn't any clips on the piston. You need to pull the calliper out, use compress air to push the piston out or do it the old fashion way by pushing on the brake pedal. Then you need to clean up the calliper and the piston, and reassemble everything. You need to put the boot on the piston then put the other other side of the boot inside the calliper. I have pictures if you want. Don't forget to bleed the brake system. Best time to change the brake fluid (must be changed every two years) with DOT 4 ATE. Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clarence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 1:11 PM Subject: [UUC] E34 rear caliper rebuild > Need to rebuild a brake caliper on the rear of a '93 525iT w/o ASC etc.. Bentley > diagram shows a retaining clip on the piston, but instructions w/the rebuild kit (ATE) > make no mention of such. Can anybody confirm that there is no such clip? > > Also, I don't have compressed are available (yet). Could I use pedal pressure IF I > did something to prevent the piston from shooting out, that is, in small increments? > > TIA > > Clarence > West Bend, WI > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 11:20:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 rear caliper rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Also, I don't have compressed are available (yet). Could I use pedal >pressure IF I did something to prevent the piston from shooting out, >that is, in small increments? Yeah I did that at a race track once rebuilding someone's front M3 caliper. It was messy as can be but doable. I think I used a bunch of rags to limit the travel of the piston. I don't have a compressor so I use a small air tank (5 gallon I think) from a local auto parts store you don't need a whole lot of pressure to push the pistons out. One thing I did is upgraded the line, Pepboys sells you those pig tail looking ones (yellow) and then I bought a quick disconnect kit. Works really awesome now because I can use it to rebuild calipers or pump up tires, the quick connectors were the best upgrade for that little tank. Carlos. _______________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
