The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 464 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels E30 Lock Control Modules Re: E30 Lock Control Modules Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels Re: HFM/MAF retuning/ was: Horrible cold-start consumption <e30> Camber setting advice please Re: <e30> Camber setting advice please Re: <e30> Camber setting advice please Re: 325 head 325 head Re: 325 head Re: [e36 M3] OBDII Fault code question Re: [E36] Horrible cold-start consumption
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 18:51:17 -0600 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Also airbag cars supposedly have stretchier seatbelts, so it would be a good idea to replace them if you're sans-a-bag. Scott >Others will also tell you that steering column in a non-airbag car is >designed to collapse a little differently in the event of a crash compared >to an airbag equipped car. > >Regards, > >Rich &g ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 22:58:23 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not true of E30 cars. All models all markets use the same belt airbag or not. Ed Scott Staewen wrote: > Also airbag cars supposedly have stretchier seatbelts, so it would be > a good idea to replace them if you're sans-a-bag. > > Scott ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 08:29:05 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I recently installed a MOMO wheel in place of the factory airbag wheel. It still needs a spacer to move the wheel away from the stalks, which I plan to buy and install soon. Any wheel, factory or otherwise, that is designed for a non-airbag car, will be too close to the stalks. In my case, the SRS light had been removed by a previous owner or someone hired by a previous owner, so I didn't have to worry about that. Scott Miller 1990 325i GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 15:33:03 -0500 >From: Matt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> >Subject: [E30] Airbag steering wheels >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >What's the verdict on non-airbag BMW M-Technic and the like being fitted >to AirBag E30s? >I understand that I lose the AB, which is not an issue. >I also understand how to disconnect the AB without blowing myself >through the back window or throwing a code. > >There are numerous BMW factory steering wheels on Ebay at any given time >and my own stocker is driving me nuts... > >TIA >-Matt >1991 325iX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 17:08:52 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: E30 Lock Control Modules Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What is the current wisdom on E30 lock control modules? Are all the used ones as flakey as the one in our '91 325iA is becomming? Should I just bite the proverbial bullet and buy a new one for north of $100? Given what a PITA it is to R&R the module, I really don't want to do the job more than once. TIA, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 22:59:41 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 Lock Control Modules Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> We sell those control units for $96.00. You are correct to assume you shouldn't bother with used, unless you want to run the risk of short life. One thing I don't agree with is the "PITA" bit. The install takes less than 10 minutes and requires nothing more than a Phillips screwdriver. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > What is the current wisdom on E30 lock control modules? Are all the > used ones as flakey as the one in our '91 325iA is becomming? Should > I just bite the proverbial bullet and buy a new one for north of $100? > Given what a PITA it is to R&R the module, I really don't want to do > the job more than once. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 21:19:29 -0600 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [E30] Airbag steering wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> oops. mea culpa. thanks for the correction, gary rss >Yes but not the E30 or even the E34. Only cars which have 100% bag fitment >have stretchier belts. >Gary Derian >>Also airbag cars supposedly have stretchier seatbelts, so it would be a >>good idea to replace them if you're sans-a-bag. >> >>Scott ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 00:32:30 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: HFM/MAF retuning/ was: Horrible cold-start consumption Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil, I wish Conforti, Dinan, or another would make or a remap for a larger tube with stock air sensor, but doing so would allow competition against their higher profit Euro HFM kits. The euro HFM's sensor does not provide a performance advantage. The advantage comes from greater airflow due to it's larger diameter tube. Based on that is why I made my own larger tube for the stock sensor. After two years/ 25k miles, the concept has proven itself. I get nice dyno results with safe A/F ratios verifying similar power improvements as the Euro HFM kits on the market, along with acceptable fuel economy (21-22 mpg local/suburban, 26-29 steady highway @75-78mph, and last week 26.5mpg @85-88mph steady highway in 45-50 degree air driving to LA and back). The remappings that would suit my setup are either: Simple: a remap that would not target improving performance, only differing from what I have now (Dinan stage1) by compensating for the part throttle conditions that turn on the CE Most practical: Scale the metering for the euro hfm kits to the outputs of the stock sensor at the same airflow rates, thereby avoiding the need for a lot of dyno work Ideally: Dial in the system to max power and economy, possibly toward producing a commercial viable product that would severely undercut what the big tuners charge, simply by eliminating the euro HFM from the parts the customer would have to buy. If a tuner, racer, or another DIY'er would like to explore obtaining at greatly reduced cost as much or greater power as commercially available euro HFM kits, then please do get in touch. Barry Neil Maller wrote: > Of course this may also be an illustration of how dicking around > withisolated components of an integrated system isn't necessarily a > good idea.While it may lack the DIY problem-solving satisfaction that > Barry enjoys, I > >suspect that most people would be much better served by using the >appropriate software from Conforti, Dinan or whoever that would fully and >properly adjust for the larger HFM and/or throttle body.Neil >96 M3 - Bastard child > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 09:34:00 -0500 From: "John Sabatini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <e30> Camber setting advice please Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Getting a new suspension installed this week on my E30 325is. Car is my daily driver with 6 - 10 DE's a year. I am having Bilstein Sports with Ireland Stage 3 springs installed. Already have H&R Sways. Installing K-mac plates up front and Ireland adjustable camber kit in the rear. What camber settings should I begin with for street and track? While the rears are adjustable, I don't think it will be as easy as the fronts, should I just have the rears set at a compromise for both street and track? Thanks John Sabatini ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 07:52:10 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: John Sabatini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: <e30> Camber setting advice please Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- John Sabatini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > What camber settings should I begin with for street and track? Do you care how quickly the car eats through your street tires? If not then I'd go 2.5 deg negative camber up front with zero toe. You can probably also set it up so you have a street and a track setting. Get the alignment shop to mark the plates and set it up with slight toe in and maybe 2 degrees neg camber or so for the street then another setting with max negative camber and either zero toe or some toe out. > While the rears are adjustable, I don't think it will be as easy as > the fronts, should I just have the rears set at a compromise for both > street and track? Definitely. In the rear you should remove negative camber. The car as it sits with lowering springs is probably around 3 degrees. I would set it at about 2 degrees with perhaps slight toe in. That's up to you but that's how I like the rear alignment, perhaps you can experiment with zero toe in the rear as well. Carlos. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 09:14:39 -0800 From: Norm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <e30> Camber setting advice please Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John, I'm in basic agreement with Carlos. I've had very good luck running about a 1 degree difference between front and rear (i.e. 2.5 front, 1.5 rear) for the track. Potentially 1.5 and 0-0.5 for a daily driver with zero toe. If you want a bit more turn-in for the track, you might consider a small amount of toe-out. The first iteration for my car (for track), I ran 1.5 at the front and 0-0.5 at the rear, with a small amount of toe-out and the turn-in was significantly improved over stock. The good news is that you can now adjust tire pressure, suspension and alignment to see what fits your personal needs the best. -norm John Sabatini wrote: > Getting a new suspension installed this week on my E30 325is. Car is my > daily driver with 6 - 10 DE's a year. I am having Bilstein Sports with > Ireland Stage 3 springs installed. Already have H&R Sways. Installing > K-mac plates up front and Ireland adjustable camber kit in the rear. > > What camber settings should I begin with for street and track? > > While the rears are adjustable, I don't think it will be as easy as the > fronts, should I just have the rears set at a compromise for both street > and track? > > Thanks > > John Sabatini > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 07:58:09 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: 325 head Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> /rimshot/ Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] 12/17/2004 06:05 cc: PM Subject: Re: [UUC] 325 head In a message dated 12/17/2004 4:28:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Then he'd have to put in in his carry-on and explain it at the airport inspection. That would be too bad if he checked his luggage, and the airline lost it. When filling out the reason he was filing a lost luggage report, he'd have to put, "...I dunno, I guess I lost my head..." :D Tom Wyatt [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 10:16:40 -0600 From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest] list" <[email protected]> Subject: 325 head Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FOR SALE M20 325 "I" head. Contains valves no cam, rockers or shafts. Was pulled as exchange (not a broken belt). $500.00 plus shipping Contact me off list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jenny Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 11:22:52 -0500 From: Frank Travassos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Jenny Morgan'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest] list" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 325 head Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For sale; 2000 528i Sport Package, Blue/Sand 93,000 miles...6 Disc, Xenon lights, new Conti-Extremes. Great shape, $16k or best. Massachusetts. -----Original Message----- From: Jenny Morgan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 11:17 AM To: [uucdigest] list Subject: [UUC] 325 head FOR SALE M20 325 "I" head. Contains valves no cam, rockers or shafts. Was pulled as exchange (not a broken belt). $500.00 plus shipping Contact me off list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jenny Morgan Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 14:55:38 -0800 (PST) From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [e36 M3] OBDII Fault code question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks- I ran my VIN past the dealer and confirmed that this campaign has been performed, so I guess I'm back to suspecting the coils. --SC --- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Sean, > Sounds typical of the crankshaft position > sensor failure. There > was a recall on this, a new sensor is installed and > a new mapping is > flashed to the ECU. The mapping gives a slight > performance improvement, > too. > hth, > Barry > > Sean Cordone wrote:Hi All- > > >My 97 M3 has started periodically exhibiting a > >misfire. The problem is very intermittent, and > >typically lasts for a minute at most. I suspected a > >failing ignition coil. A fault code read turns up > "EE" > >and "F0", indicating misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. > >However, I see that an ignition coil failure has > it's > >own fault code. Is a bad coil still the most likely > >culprit, or should I look elsewhere for trouble? > The > >car has 85kmiles on it and OEM engine software. > TIA, --SC > > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 19:06:36 -0500 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [E36] Horrible cold-start consumption Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Pavel stated that his car has an engine that was not imported to the U.S. >(M50B20TU). Quite honestly, I know nothing about non-U.S. models, so I >assumed that he actually has an air flow meter (AFM), as he stated in his >question. But then he clarified that he has the MAF sensor, so obviously >my parroting of Mr. Conforti's advice was misplaced here. But he still >says there is some adjustment, and I was not aware of any. Whatever. > If it's adjustable that's news to me as well. >The ability of the ECU to adapt to a rich or lean running condition is >somewhat limited. I pictured the possibility that the "AFM" was adjusted >beyond the range of the ECU to adapt. However, if this were the case, then >it should have set an error code that air/fuel ratio was out of range, or >some such thing. Plus, the problem was associated with cold starting. Is >the 02 sensor in the loop during cold starts? Or only after warm-up? I'm >not sure. > Cold start is open loop. The O2 sensors are only accurate in a very narrow range right around stoich. Commanded air-fuel ratio is much richer than that at cold start-up. Brian '94 Cobra ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
