The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 480 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <E28/535>Buying Injectors (X-Post) Re: <E28/535>Buying Injectors (X-Post) <E36> Stereo Head Unit Installation Re: <E36> Stereo Head Unit Installation FW: 2 1957 BMW Izettas [sic] for sale (KC, MO) Re: Reluctant Rim Re: [e36 M3] Misfire problem found - spark plug backed out? Re: <E36> Remote Re: <E36> Remote Re: <E36> Remote Re: CASE OF THE RELUCTANT RIM Re: CASE OF THE RELUCTANT RIM Re: Newport News Mechanic?? 528i E39 Idle Stumble Jake Freedman kudos
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2005 11:40:40 -0500 From: "Donald McMahon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: <E28/535>Buying Injectors (X-Post) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The #4 & #5 injectors in my '86 535i are weeping after shutdown and I'm worried about washing the cylinders with gasoline. The parts numbers suggest that these injectors are the more expensive ones for this 5 series when purchased from official BMW parts suppliers (built before 4/86). I'm thinking about buy injectors from 5-O motor sports: http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsBMW.asp 5-O does not seem to indicate a difference between injectors before and after BMW switched injectors. or http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do Real OEM has you put your last digits into the selection process to find your model. Has anyone had any problems/preferrences with these suppliers? Don McMahon, Okemos MI '75 3.0Si, '85 535i, '86 535i, '99 540i ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 11:51:49 -0500 From: "Scott Jancura" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Donald McMahon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E28/535>Buying Injectors (X-Post) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have used the Five-O injectors in my 85 535i (4/84) for three years and they have functioned well. I did buy OEM BMW o-rings to use when installing the injectors as the o-rings that came on them were a bit smaller in thickness than OEM. Hope this helps. Scott -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Donald McMahon Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2005 11:41 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <E28/535>Buying Injectors (X-Post) The #4 & #5 injectors in my '86 535i are weeping after shutdown and I'm worried about washing the cylinders with gasoline. The parts numbers suggest that these injectors are the more expensive ones for this 5 series when purchased from official BMW parts suppliers (built before 4/86). I'm thinking about buy injectors from 5-O motor sports: http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsBMW.asp 5-O does not seem to indicate a difference between injectors before and after BMW switched injectors. or http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do Real OEM has you put your last digits into the selection process to find your model. Has anyone had any problems/preferrences with these suppliers? Don McMahon, Okemos MI '75 3.0Si, '85 535i, '86 535i, '99 540i Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 11:44:11 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Stereo Head Unit Installation Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm looking to replace the cassette head unit in my '94 325ic with a CD head unit. Are there any particular issues I need to be aware of regarding installation? I've seen some information that suggests that BMW stereos are somewhat atypical in their wiring, specifically that they use a common ground. NOTE: I am not looking for recommendations on specific head units or suggestions that I'll get better sound by replacing speakers, amps, etc. first. I'm not looking to create an audiophile system, I just want to be able to play a CD and I'm not a big fan of CD changers. Besides, the trunk space in the 'vert is limited enough as it is. Thanks, Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2005 08:53:27 -0800 From: Greg Cagle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Stereo Head Unit Installation Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you use a wiring harness connector (from Crutchfield or similar) then you should be fine. I'd recommend getting a head unit that plays MP3 CDs - that way you can get a large capacity in a small space. - Greg Brian Daley wrote: > I'm looking to replace the cassette head unit in my '94 325ic with a > CD head unit. Are there any particular issues I need to be aware of > regarding installation? I've seen some information that suggests > that BMW stereos are somewhat atypical in their wiring, specifically > that they use a common ground. > > NOTE: I am not looking for recommendations on specific head units or > suggestions that I'll get better sound by replacing speakers, amps, > etc. first. I'm not looking to create an audiophile system, I just > want to be able to play a CD and I'm not a big fan of CD changers. > Besides, the trunk space in the 'vert is limited enough as it is. > > Thanks, Brian '94 325ic > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > -- Greg Cagle gregc at gregcagle dot com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 11:08:10 -0600 From: Christian Els <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: FW: 2 1957 BMW Izettas [sic] for sale (KC, MO) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From our local chapter email list, somebody left this message (below) on our chapter website dropbox. I know nothing about the vehicles nor their owner but thought perhaps someone might be looking and could use the lead. Contact the gentleman listed below for further information. Vehicle location is (assumed to be in) the Kansas City vicinity. Cheers, Christian Els Columbia, MO -----Original Message----- Hello, I have a client who has 2 1957 Izettas for sale. Good Condition. Any interest? William E. Lowe [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 11:10:54 -0600 From: "Dewig, Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Reluctant Rim Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You are correct. My observational skills are obviously not up to par. I apologize. Please let this threadlet die an unholy death, and I will bow my head in sorrow. > "BTW, no terms such as "Angstrom" are allowed here, this is a car > forum, not the graduate physics/chemistry forum (hah!)." > > This is a good rule, as it will prevent pedants like me from pointing > out that an Angstrom is actually a unit of measurement applied to > distance (Usually used in measuring wavelengths), not force. So it surely wouldn't be super-pedantic of me to observe that this was exactly, and correctly, how Michael used the term, viz: > i tried it again > so to see what had happened -- > the rim never moved -- > not even an angstrom -- Neil 96 M3 - Bastard child 88 MB 300E - Gone after 240K+ miles 03 525iT - New arrival 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S on order Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 13:46:49 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [e36 M3] Misfire problem found - spark plug backed out? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Quoting Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > Turns out in fact the number 3 spark plug had > actually backed out of the cylinder. I had an issue with the sparks plugs loosening up after one of the first times that I changed them myself - I was too concerned about OVERtightening them. So I bought a 3/8" torque wrench (needed one anyway for various other purposes) and now torque them to spec. (Of course, my mechanic can do this properly by feel. Bugs me :-)) > Plugs were Bosch Platinum+4s. Any thoughts on their suitability for > the M3? If they work for you, they work for you :-) Some M3s are particular to either Bosch or NGK plugs, with no rhyme or reason as to how you determine this, other than trial-and-error. FWIW, I use the BMW-recommended in my M3 (Bosch FGR8KQE) and have not experienced any problems. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP - also runs "stock" plugs ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 11:05:37 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Remote Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, Sean, Spencer, and Tom, Thanks guys. Great info and reference on the alarm/remote. The UUC Digest is the greatest. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 12:14:52 -0800 (PST) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Remote Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks guys. I just ordered the kit from Bavarian Autosports. -Paul 96 328i (soon to have the remote doorlocks it should have had 10 years ago) --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Brian, Sean, Spencer, and Tom, > > Thanks guys. Great info and reference on the > alarm/remote. > > The UUC Digest is the greatest. > > -Kevin > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free! http://my.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 16:42:48 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Remote Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yup, great list. You're welcome, Paul. Let us know how the kit works out. May have to add it to the M3 one of these days. -Jay likes to research gadgets, hates to spend money on non-go-fast parts... ************* > Thanks guys. I just ordered the kit from Bavarian > Autosports. > > -Paul > 96 328i (soon to have the remote doorlocks it should > have had 10 years ago) > > > --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > Brian, Sean, Spencer, and Tom, > > > > Thanks guys. Great info and reference on the > > alarm/remote. > > > > The UUC Digest is the greatest. > > > > -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 15:16:00 -0600 From: "Dave Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: CASE OF THE RELUCTANT RIM Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I use anti-seize on the hub ever since I had a similar experience, only mine was in the comfort of my garage. One application worked for the life of the car. There is no excuse for the lugs being so tight. Always specify 'hand torque the lug nuts' whenever you have work done on your car, then watch to make sure that when they torque them, the nut actually turns to its seating point. They usually run the nut on with the air wrench, and then use the torque wrench. If the air wrench torque was too high, the hand torque will click without turning the nut. Also, if you have a stuck wheel, the easiest way to break it loose is to put the lugs back in about half way, jack up the entire back end of the car, place blocks under the front wheels, run the car in gear, then punch the brakes hard to shock it loose. Having the lugs halfway in keeps the wheel from leaving the car, but allows enough movement to break loose the wheel from the hub. It works, but would be a little hard to do along the highway if you have a limited slip differential. Dave -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2005 4:33 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] CASE OF THE RELUCTANT RIM Hi all -- Was on a trip most of last evening and all night traveling from Ohio to Connecticut, trying to beat the storm also headed east--About midnight, got a flat on Interstate 81 N (in Pennsylvania) -- pulled to side of interstate -- happily, flat was on passenger side, since the semis seemed intent on "sucking my car back out into traffic lane as they shot by extremely close, and quite fast -- Of course, the trunk had just previously been loaded to capacity, (over-capacity) so I had to first "unpack" trunk (10 minutes), while moving wife back away from car to guard rail some distance away (for her safety)-- I was barely able to loosen the lug bolts by standing on lug wrench fitted to bolts in a position approximately parallel to ground --and then doing a diving board pre-spring up and then down onto THE lug wrench handle (I pity anyone trying to do this who doesn't possess at least 220# of available instantaneous load)-- I then raised the car, removed the bolts (EVERYONE READING THIS HAS ALREADY FAST-FORWARDED TO BEYOND THIS POINT, KNOWING THE inevitable DIRECTION OF THIS POST, HAVEN'T YOU?? (C:] )-- I then grabbed the tire, pulled -- and WHAT should occur but the rim still in place -had moved Nary a snootch -- i tried it again so to see what had happened -- the rim never moved -- not even an angstrom -- After applying a suitable choice of "appelations" to the the tire, the alloy rim, the hub, to the concept of dissimilar metals engaging in a certain chemical encounter of the "seizing kind" -- I still had a bit of energy left to engage in a metaphorical conversation with my favorite BMW dealer service department who had removed these four wheels somewhat recently for a routine brake inspection. Finally -- the question -- is nothing called for as anti-seize compound to be applied to hub facing and alloy rim at contact surfaces?? -- and, although NOW I will never again travel without, why is not a decent sledge hammer included as part of road emergency equipment -- or have I just missed the clever hint that explains the trick known by all you "insiders" that would have precluded my need to seek blood-pressure treatment today for the first time in my life? I ("almost") considered putting bolts back on, perhaps half-way, lowering car off of jack, and driving back and forth a few feet, perhaps while turning steering wheel a bit (it was the front tire) in hopes of breaking the "bond" (poor choice of word here since bond implies a "hoped-for" permanent connection)--but of course, I immediately envisioned either stripping threads on the bolts if the rim DID release, or perhaps even shearing them, rim coming off and getting jammed as it fell and producing wheel into brake! -caliper or disk related damage. OK, any of you magicians out there willing to go "Penn and Teller" and share your wisdom?? Also --any anti-seize tricks for set-ups (instructions for my dealership) or for me to now perform, in anticipation of the next time (first flat in MANY years, by the way). Also I HAVE to acknowledge the compassionate semi driver who pulled up behind me after about 40 minutes, serving as a buffer so I would NOT get rear-ended, went back to HIS truck after surveying my situation, returned with HIS sledge, popped the rim off on the second swing, stayed to help put on (thankfully full-sized) spare -- helped toss flat back into well of trunk, helped me reload trunk, refused my most heartfelt offer of a "tip" to help make up for the "road-time" (i.e. money) that he so willingly relinquished to help us out and had him merely offer the thought -- "Pass on the ACT" (as in do the same for someone else). I suspect that most all of us have or do engage in such acts of kindness, car nuts that we are -- However, it would be difficult to describe my REAL sense of "gratefulness" for his act, since We WERE able to get back on the road and complete our trip --perhaps two hours in advance of the storm's arrival. It IS kind of a neat world sometimes. All of this does send me into a reminscence about being in my old '67 2002 -- we were moving -- I had the car loaded to the roof line with part of my book collection -- trunk -- full of books -- back seat --floor to ceiling --passenger seat yes -- I'm sure you know where this story is headed, as well. Of course you do, flat tire -- took forever to unload trunk, got spare and jack, but -- car was SO loaded down, there was not enough clearance to get the &[EMAIL PROTECTED]( jack under the $#%^&* chassis. So, unload back seat, front seat -- enough books to cause Library of Congress to add a wing -- stacked out all over around the car -- trying now to quickly change to spare as -- of course, you guessed -- it began to rain -- on my collection of (to me, anyhow) priceless books. -- Ah, it doesn't get any better than this -- If you are still reading, thanks for your time -- thanks as well, for your responses -AND/or your help -- (not always the same thing!!) Michael North Granby, CT Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 14:06:39 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: CASE OF THE RELUCTANT RIM Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Dave Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Also, if you have a stuck wheel, the easiest way to break it loose is to put > the lugs back in about half way, jack up the entire back end of the car, > place blocks under the front wheels, run the car in gear, then punch the > brakes hard to shock it loose. Having the lugs halfway in keeps the wheel > from leaving the car, but allows enough movement to break loose the wheel > from the hub. It works, but would be a little hard to do along the highway > if you have a limited slip differential. Or if it is a front tire on a RWD BMW like what was originally posted. :-) Limited slip or not, it is pretty hard to jack up the entire rear of the car alongside the highway with the stock jack of most any modern car... Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 16:32:00 -0500 From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Newport News Mechanic?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't know how convenient it is to you but, I was impressed when he worked on my tii at Heishman in DC thirty years ago and he's had a successful shop in VA Beach for decades with what I hear is a good reputation. A successful autocrosser and one-time winner of the One Lap back when that meant something... Terry Baker Atlantic Autowerks 5461 Virginia Beach Blvd Virginia Beach, VA http://www.atlanticautowerks.com/ No affiliation except I sold all three partners new BMWs back in '93 or so and they all came back shortly thereafter and bought M3s. I've never had any work done there but they're all nice folks with a great deal of BMW (and Porsche) knowledge. Good luck, -Phil ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2005 17:08:02 -0600 From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: 528i E39 Idle Stumble Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gentle Digestors: I have a 528i, build date 7/99 with 35,000 miles. It exhibits an occasional idle stumble at cold startup. Engine starts fine and settles into smooth idle. In a few moments, the engine almost dies and catches itself with a high-pitched squeek. Idles again smoothly for about 30 seconds and then stumbles, almost dies, squeeks and catches itself. Once warm, the symptoms go away. Doesn't happen on every cold startup, just sometimes -- warm or cold weather. Anyone experience this? Any ideas where to start looking for a cure? Thanks, Robert 2000 528i 1990 535i (for sale) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2005 18:36:05 -0600 From: "W. B. Gerard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Jake Freedman kudos Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'd gotten Jake Freedman's (732-985-2211) name from this list a while back, and I'd like to recommend him to anyone in the Edison, NJ area--he recently helped me out long-distance with a dishonest dealer, Ingram Motors (a dishonest dealer--imagine!) here in balmy Montgomery, Alabama. The time he took on the phone helped me recover the entire parts cost of a tranny installed unnecessarily in the wife's Volvo 850. Pretty darn near miraculous. I still consider bringing my 89 535 up to him, but the 30 hours r/t is a bit much, even for honest and knowledgeable service. Blake Gerard ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
