The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 498 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E30 cold start valve Re: E30 cold start valve Re: E30 cold start valve E30 Central Locking <long> Re: E30 Central Locking <long> Re: E30 Central Locking <long> <FS> E28 M5 BBS wheels Re: E46 Tires Wheels/rims... Driveline/ Diff Clunking Re: Driveline/ Diff Clunking Re: Driveline/ Diff Clunking Parts for Sale, mostly E30 Re: <E46> Jump Starting E30 Door Electrical Connector
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 01:34:01 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E30 cold start valve Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Car is a 1987 325e, ~210K miles. No internal engine mods. "i" exhaust about two years old. It didn't pass NJ state emissions a year ago, and now I'm working on making it pass King Co. (WA state) emissions. I thought I had narrowed the issue down to a faulty injector. (There is a slight miss.) Because we couldn't seem to find any leaks and some other test (O2 sensor) proved OK. Yesterday I started taking the intake manifold off figuring that was the easier way at the injectors. Then I decided to test the cold start valve. Well, to my surprise it doesn't fire. Checked the thermo switch which may be functioning. (The car was sitting and the battery is low, so I wish to try the test again so I can keep it on for at least 8 seconds.) Here are the issues. AFAIK, a non-leaking, non-functioning cold start valve would have the opposite effect on my emissions than what I am seeing. (High NOx, lean.) The intake smells like fuel and is has high carbon buildup...what would that be indicitive of? Also, would the cold start valve not work if the battery was low, or other parts of the system disconnected? (I have some vacuum hoses disconnected and the throttle off the intake.) Is there an easier way to access the injectors than taking the intake off? Any advice or help on the matter appreciated. Gilbert ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 21:12:15 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 cold start valve Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cold start injector runs for 8 seconds on that car. Not something that's going to effect emissions unless it's leaking down. M20 and M30 engines usually show a dramatic improvement in idle quality, fuel ecomonomy and emissions after a thorough intake tract cleaning. I use the BG fogging system, which cleans everything from the throttle body to the backs of the intake valves. It'd be the first step I'd recommend in diagnosing your high NOx issue. High NOx, by the way, is not necessarily indication of a lean condition. It is usually caused by high combustion temps, which are usually, but not always, caused by lean mixture. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gilbert Hoffman > Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 8:34 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: [UUC] E30 cold start valve > > > Car is a 1987 325e, ~210K miles. No internal engine mods. "i" > exhaust about > two years old. > > It didn't pass NJ state emissions a year ago, and now I'm working > on making > it pass King Co. (WA state) emissions. I thought I had narrowed the issue > down to a faulty injector. (There is a slight miss.) Because we couldn't > seem to find any leaks and some other test (O2 sensor) proved OK. > Yesterday > I started taking the intake manifold off figuring that was the > easier way at > the injectors. Then I decided to test the cold start valve. Well, to my > surprise it doesn't fire. Checked the thermo switch which may be > functioning. (The car was sitting and the battery is low, so I > wish to try > the test again so I can keep it on for at least 8 seconds.) > > Here are the issues. AFAIK, a non-leaking, non-functioning cold > start valve > would have the opposite effect on my emissions than what I am > seeing. (High > NOx, lean.) The intake smells like fuel and is has high carbon > buildup...what would that be indicitive of? Also, would the cold > start valve > not work if the battery was low, or other parts of the system > disconnected? > (I have some vacuum hoses disconnected and the throttle off the > intake.) Is > there an easier way to access the injectors than taking the intake off? > > Any advice or help on the matter appreciated. > > Gilbert ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 17:14:50 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 cold start valve Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett answered: >Cold start injector runs for 8 seconds on that car. Not something that's >going to effect emissions unless it's leaking down. Still doesn't explain carbon/fuel buidup in the intake with what appears to be a non-functioning cold start valve. >I use the BG fogging system, which cleans everything from the throttle body >to the backs of the intake valves. Since I don't own a BG fogger and can't seem to rent one, what is the next best solution? >High NOx, by the way, is not necessarily indication of a lean condition. >It >is usually caused by high combustion temps, which are usually, but not >always, caused by lean mixture. Actually, you were the one who said I probably had bad combustion and the O2 sensor was creating a lean condition. Gilbert ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 17:58:49 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 Central Locking <long> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I hate trying to track down intermittant electrical problems. When it starts working again, you have to wait for another failure to continue troubleshooting. Or maybe you fixed it, who knows? Subject vehicle: 1991 325iA 2 door Central locking had stopped working. I checked the ETM to see how it is supposed to work. I found that the lock control module is in the middle of two separate but related circuits. One side is connected to the lock switches. Apply a ground (through one of the lock switches) to lock control module terminal 6 or 9 and the module should tell the doors/trunk/gas door to unlock (assuming "unlock inhibit" has not been set - that's done by setting the deadbolt). Apply a ground to terminals 7 or 8 and the module should tell everything to lock. On the other side of the electronics are the lock/unlock motors. The motors are all connected in parallel to lock control module terminals 1 and 2. Normally, both sides of the motors are grounded through the module. When the module is given a lock or unlock signal, a relay-looking switch thingie inside the module switches one of the two grounded motor wires away from ground over to 12 volts. In theory, the motors respond. About a month ago I removed the lock control module and put jumpers on the wires to the motors. One jumper had 12 volts and the other was grounded. The locks responded. Therefore, I concluded that the module was bad. I ordered a new one from Brett Anderson, and installed it today. Of course, this did not solve the problem, proving my conclusion bad. And the problem continues to be intermittant. So apparently when I _thought_ I had isolated the problem to a bad module, actually I had been fooled by the intermittant problem temporarily fixing itself. I hate when that happens. But now, I know I have a good module. At least I'm willing to assume that the new module Brett sold me is good. So what I'm looking for is something that both doors, the trunk and the gas filler door have in common. There are several things: Everything in the system grounds through G200, a couple of bolts/nuts/studs on a piece of metal up under the dash in a very difficult-to-reach location. Everything there seems tight and nothing is obviously broken. But there are a lot of wires hooked up there, and isolating the lock system wires would require disconnecting everything and probing with a VOM. With my luck, I'd forget to re-connect some wire and cause a different system to fail. Ground splice S342, also not easy to access. I pulled up the plastic trim plate that covers the edge of the carpet where it meets the door opening. Then, pulling back the carpet, there is the wiring harness. Nothing looks like it has ever been damaged or disturbed down there. Not that there couldn't be a problem with one of these ground points, but it is not obvious. The last common area is the wires hooked up to the door lock switches. The lock side wires all connect to each other through various splices, and the same with the unlock side wires, but through different splices. That means that all of the locks are connected to each other twice. Finally, I have not yet mentioned that the driver's door lock has not been working properly. Until now it didn't seem important. It will unlock. And it will lock AND deadbolt the car. But it will not lock the car without deadbolting. The intermediate position where it is supposed to lock the car only, is pretty much gone. So just out of curiousity, has anyone else had a similar problem that turned out NOT to be the lock control module? Do share. Thanks, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:53:02 -0500 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 Central Locking <long> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >I hate trying to track down intermittant electrical problems. When it > > Subject vehicle: 1991 325iA 2 door > > Central locking had stopped working. I checked the ETM to see how it what exactly do you mean 'stopped working' ? you move a lock motor (trunk, driver door, passenger door) to lock or unlock and nothing happens? have you checked the big connector between the drivers door and the A pillar ? a little bit of corrosion in that connector can lead to some very weird and wacky action from the locks (from non-functional to disco-lights) the problem with the key not locking the car unless you go all the way to 'double lock' is very common and is most likely (99%) due to the drivers door lock cylinder needing replacement (replacement kit available from BMW for ~$40? including all tumblers to key it to your key). The spring/cam mechanism gets weak. I don't think it's related to your problem *except* the cylinder mechanism also works the double-lock microswitch.. if that's stuck (happened to me) then the lock computer will refuse to lock or unlock anything.. the switch is mounted just above the lock cylinder and can be bent up or down out of the way. chris pawlowicz '89 325i '99 Z3 2.8 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 10:22:47 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 Central Locking <long> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris, by "stopped working" I do mean that you can turn the key in any of the 3 locks and it will lock/unlock only the door/trunk lock into which the key is currently inserted. Nothing else locks or unlocks. Sounds like you're saying that a problem at the driver's door connector can cause my problem, so I'll go look at it today. Thanks, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 Central Locking <long> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I hate trying to track down intermittant electrical problems. When it > > > > Subject vehicle: 1991 325iA 2 door > > > > Central locking had stopped working. I checked the ETM to see how it > > what exactly do you mean 'stopped working' ? > > you move a lock motor (trunk, driver door, passenger door) to lock or unlock > and nothing happens? > > have you checked the big connector between the drivers door and the A pillar > ? a little bit of corrosion in that connector can lead to some very weird > and wacky action from the locks (from non-functional to disco-lights) > > the problem with the key not locking the car unless you go all the way to > 'double lock' is very common and is most likely (99%) due to the drivers > door lock cylinder needing replacement (replacement kit available from BMW > for ~$40? including all tumblers to key it to your key). The spring/cam > mechanism gets weak. > > I don't think it's related to your problem *except* the cylinder mechanism > also works the double-lock microswitch.. if that's stuck (happened to me) > then the lock computer will refuse to lock or unlock anything.. the switch > is mounted just above the lock cylinder and can be bent up or down out of > the way. > > > chris pawlowicz > '89 325i > '99 Z3 2.8 > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 01:31:30 -0500 From: Ben Keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <FS> E28 M5 BBS wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://members.roadfly.com/m_ben/RZ339/hjg01.jpg four (4) E28 M5 BBS wheels, 16" x 7.5" excellent condition, with center caps & new Roundels. more pictures here : http://members.roadfly.com/m_ben/RZ339/hjg+set.htm $750 obo, shipped to the lower 48. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 21:48:02 -0800 From: kkiely <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E46 Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> RE: the undercut tread blocks....... thanks Gary, clever those tar engineers. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:59:55 -0500 From: Frank Travassos <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Chris Pawlowicz'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Wheels/rims... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a 2000 528i Sport Pkg w/17" 2 piece rims. I need a couple of rims, but do not want to pay the dealer price for them. Anyone know where I can search for used rims??? I have tried the usual suspects, ebay, wheelexchange, etc with no luck... Frank Travassos -----Original Message----- From: Chris Pawlowicz [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:53 AM To: Scott & Charlotte Miller; UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 Central Locking <long> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >I hate trying to track down intermittant electrical problems. When it > > Subject vehicle: 1991 325iA 2 door > > Central locking had stopped working. I checked the ETM to see how it what exactly do you mean 'stopped working' ? you move a lock motor (trunk, driver door, passenger door) to lock or unlock and nothing happens? have you checked the big connector between the drivers door and the A pillar ? a little bit of corrosion in that connector can lead to some very weird and wacky action from the locks (from non-functional to disco-lights) the problem with the key not locking the car unless you go all the way to 'double lock' is very common and is most likely (99%) due to the drivers door lock cylinder needing replacement (replacement kit available from BMW for ~$40? including all tumblers to key it to your key). The spring/cam mechanism gets weak. I don't think it's related to your problem *except* the cylinder mechanism also works the double-lock microswitch.. if that's stuck (happened to me) then the lock computer will refuse to lock or unlock anything.. the switch is mounted just above the lock cylinder and can be bent up or down out of the way. chris pawlowicz '89 325i '99 Z3 2.8 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 09:33:23 -0800 (PST) From: Nick Ortwein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E30 Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Driveline/ Diff Clunking Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just had my center support bearing and flex disc replaced to attempt to fix a clunk i hear at low rps while the car is in gear and each time I shift. The car is an 88 325is 5-speed. This repair didn't fix the problem. Is it the drive shaft? My mechanic said the drive shaft looks fine. Any suggestions? The car will even jerk a bit if i leave it in gear as I am coming to a stop. Thanks in advance for your replies, Nick Ortwein 88 325is San Diego, CA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 12:40:21 -0500 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Nick Ortwein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Driveline/ Diff Clunking Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Nick asks >I just had my center support bearing and flex disc > replaced to attempt to fix a clunk i hear at low rps > while the car is in gear and each time I shift. The > car is an 88 325is 5-speed. This repair didn't fix > the problem. Is it the drive shaft? My mechanic said > the drive shaft looks fine. Any suggestions? The car > will even jerk a bit if i leave it in gear as I am > coming to a stop. how about the rear subframe mounts? just in front of the rear wheel wells are two large mounts which connect the subframe to the body of the car.. they last ~100k miles.. they are a metal/rubber/metal design and the rubber separates from the metal. When they are worn out the rear subframe slops around a bit (especially under high torque situations like 1st / reverse) causing clunking (low speeds) and wandering (higher speeds) they are not fun to do yourself and it's usually worth it to pay an unlucky mechanic to do 'em (think reciprocating saw, torch, BFH, and some blood, sweat and tears) chris pawlowicz '89 325i '99 Z3 2.8 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 12:49:29 -0500 From: Matt Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Nick Ortwein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Driveline/ Diff Clunking Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I second the subframe bushings. You could also look at your diff mount and trailing arm bushings. If you are comfortable with working on your car the subframe bushings are not that hard if you rent the proper tools. Brett @ Koala has the right tool for the job. It made it relatively easy for me. On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 12:40:21 -0500, Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Nick asks > >I just had my center support bearing and flex disc > > replaced to attempt to fix a clunk i hear at low rps > > while the car is in gear and each time I shift. The > > car is an 88 325is 5-speed. This repair didn't fix > > the problem. Is it the drive shaft? My mechanic said > > the drive shaft looks fine. Any suggestions? The car > > will even jerk a bit if i leave it in gear as I am > > coming to a stop. > > how about the rear subframe mounts? > just in front of the rear wheel wells are two large mounts which connect the > subframe to the body of the car.. they last ~100k miles.. they are a > metal/rubber/metal design and the rubber separates from the metal. When they > are worn out the rear subframe slops around a bit (especially under high > torque situations like 1st / reverse) causing clunking (low speeds) and > wandering (higher speeds) > > they are not fun to do yourself and it's usually worth it to pay an unlucky > mechanic to do 'em (think reciprocating saw, torch, BFH, and some blood, > sweat and tears) > > > chris pawlowicz > '89 325i > '99 Z3 2.8 > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 14:15:32 -0000 From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Parts for Sale, mostly E30 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Got some parts for sale: E30 aluminum front bumper, valence, trim, airdam, etc. E30 plastic rear bumper assembly A few random E30 and other parts See: http://home.att.net/~fluhar/parts.htm Bob Fluharty 87 325is/3.0 Cincinnati ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:49:24 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E46> Jump Starting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mike, Sounds like low battery voltage or floating ground. Some of the IC's are getting input voltages or power supply voltages which put them into unkown states. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:07:16 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: E30 Door Electrical Connector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I quote from the Bentley E30 manual, Page 14-19, 5.2: "On front doors, pull back the protective boot and disconnect the wiring by squeezing the tabs on the connector and then pulling it out. See Fig. 5-3." Protective boot back, check. Squeeze the tabs, check. Pull? There is nothing on which to pull excpet wires, and I ain't going there. OK, let's try prying. Um, it isn't budging. Why? So my question is, how much abuse can the connector take before I destroy it and then hate myself for again starting another project which I should have farmed out? Please include a direct reply if possible, TIA. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1991 325iA w/ intermittant power door locks ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
