The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 492 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Fw:  HELP!!! My BACK UP LIGHTS ON and it won't go
  Re: Fw:  HELP!!! My BACK UP LIGHTS ON and it won't go
  WTB 17x9 Wheels
  Re: <E36> Spark plug confusion
  Re: E46 Prepurchase questions
  Re: Fw:  HELP!!! My BACK UP LIGHTS ON and it won't go
  Re: Snow tires in California
  Re: Snow tires in California and Oregon
  E30 for SCCA Solo II
  E30 325iX rumbles
  Re: E30 325iX rumbles
  Re: E30 325iX rumbles
  E46 Tires
  E46 Tires
  WTB: E36 shift knob

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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 20:07:27 +0000
From: nick brearley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Fw:  HELP!!! My BACK UP LIGHTS ON and it won't go
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 10:58 12/01/05 -0800, Mark Dadgar wrote:

>There are actually some really good reasons for this:
>
>1) it dramatically reduces the wire count in the car, which is cheaper to 
>design, cheaper to manufacture, and cheaper to maintain
>2) modern auto electrical systems are pushing the boundaries of what a 
>reasonably-sized car alternator can produce.  Reducing the amount of 
>wiring, particularly fairly long runs of it, reduces transmission losses 
>due to resistance.  Increasing the alternator size has other issues (heat, 
>weight, economy) and would require larger mains, a larger battery, etc.
>3) you can do some clever things like substitute other lights in case of 
>burned-out bulbs, etc.
>
>Multiplexed wiring harnesses are the future.  As Marco pointed out, most 
>GM trucks are this way now.  In fact, GM pioneered this technology in a 
>production vehicle with the Cadillac Allante back in the late 80's.

Certainly, one can't argue with the manufacturer advancing design to 
improve production engineering. It just makes life a little, er, 
challenging for the third owner who does not have the benefit of a MODIC to 
help in his investigations.

Once 48v electrics are here I imagine we will have to start diagnosing with 
our left hands firmly in our pockets.

Nick

 

 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:19:34 -0800
From: "Damon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Fw:  HELP!!! My BACK UP LIGHTS ON and it won't go
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

nick brearley wrote:
> Once 48v electrics are here I imagine we will have to start diagnosing
with
> our left hands firmly in our pockets.

As an aside, the industry has recently agreed to postpone the introduction
of these systems indefinitely , essentially killing their development.

-Damon
'94 325i
'95 993



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:22:35 -0800 (PST)
From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: WTB 17x9 Wheels
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

In search of a set of 17x9 wheels for my E34 M5. E39
wheels will work with the rings and I prefer an offset
in the 13-22mm range. Aftermarket or BMW wheels will
be considered. These are to replace a set of forged
17x8 M5 track wheels (which will be for sale or trade
when I find replacements).  Thanks.

Kevin Kelly
'91 M5
'00 323iT

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 16:04:07 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36> Spark plug confusion
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Kevin,
It's usually a good idea to use a plug that is one heat range colder than stock 
with forced induction.  
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqmodified.asp?nav=31200&country=US

For NGK that would be a BKR7EK but I don't think that part number actually 
exists.  I'd suggest calling NGK for a recommendation.  Info on NGK part 
numbers is available here: 
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

You also need to set the gap smaller.  .035 is probably a good place to start.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqpregap.asp?nav=31200&country=US

I don't know about Bosch part numbers, so you're on your own there.  I suppose 
if you get an NGK part number you can cross reference to the equivalent.
  
Brian
'94 325ic (with stock NGK BKR6EK plugs)
supercharged '94 Mustang Cobra (with NGK TR6 plugs, 2 heat ranges colder than 
stock)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jan 12, 2005 2:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [UUC]  <E36> Spark plug confusion

Either I was given the wrong owners manual or there has been an update to
the spark plugs spec'd for the M3. In the owner's manual it calls for
either the Bosch F7LDCR/NGKBKR6EK.

but if I go around to common sources such as Eurasian or BavAuto they call
for a Bosch FGR8KQC.

What and why the difference?

One other wrinkle this is a SC'd motor, should the plug be different for
this set up?

Thanks, Kevin





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 16:26:25 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E46 Prepurchase questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 1/12/05 2:55 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Rob says: "Only the ocean has a "lifetime fill". "
> Not according to AE van's imagination...
> let's see if that obscure reference is caught.

Hmm, got to be classic Sci Fi author AE van Vogt, but it's been a long while
since I read him.

Neil (OBMWC follows)
96 M3      - Bastard child
88 MB 300E - Gone after 240K+ miles
03 525iT   - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic
77 MGB     - Original owner, need to sell
05 Mini    - Cooper S on order



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 14:06:48 -0800
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Fw:  HELP!!! My BACK UP LIGHTS ON and it won't go
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Wed, Jan 12, 2005 at 10:58:04AM -0800, Mark Dadgar wrote:

> 3) you can do some clever things like substitute other lights in case 
> of burned-out bulbs, etc.

 One can only imagine what the car would decide to do if too many lights 
were burnt out.

 "Customer states that upon shifting into reverse, horn sounds and 
windshield washers activate"

 It gets scary when the car is given too much autonomy to decide what to 
do.  Hell, ever since the last thunderstorm, all my nav system wants to 
do is find Sarah Conner.

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 22:32:47 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Snow tires in California
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Any crap all season tire is marked M&S.  Real snow tires have a 
mountain-snowflake logo.

Gary Derian

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marvin Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 1:45 AM
Subject: [UUC] Snow tires in California


> An additiona comment to the earlier discussion of snow tires and chains:
> The California Vehicle Code defines snow tires as being marked M&S or M+S 
> on the side and having 6/32nds inch or more tread.  So, snow tires that 
> meet the usual street requirement of 2/32nds or more may not be legal snow 
> tires when they are more than half worn.
>
> Marvin
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 08:16:55 -0800
From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Snow tires in California and Oregon
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Any crap all season tire is marked M&S.  Real snow tires have a 
> mountain-snowflake logo.
>
> Gary Derian
>

Absolutely true.  Here in Oregon anyway, only the "mountain-snowflake" 
tires count as traction devices.  M&S logo tires mean you chain up at 
checkpoints, same as the guy in the old GTO with bias-ply tires!

Tom K.
Hood River


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:28:22 -0600
From: "Jim Farris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: E30 for SCCA Solo II
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Greetings Listers,

I'm ready to do some SCCA Solo II after many years of absence.
Unfortunately, I'll just have to use the appropriate car that I have
available right now - a 1987 325e, bone stock.  I'll compete in G Stock.  I
drive the car daily and don't mind putting a few dollars and some time into
it.  I'm thinking new shocks, either Bilstein heavy duty or touring and
looking for a 3.73 ratio limited slip from a 325i or is.

Can someone help me with which differentials (year & model) will bolt in?
How do you tell if it is a LS?  Finally, does the speedometer drive work off
the ring gear, so that it doesn't care what the ratio is?

Any other suggestions that will allow the car to stay in the stock class,
but give bang for the buck?

Thanks in advance,
Jim Farris
Montgomery AL


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 13:06:53 -0500
From: Matt Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: E30 325iX rumbles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have mentioned this here in the past and have replaced what I
thought was the problem....but it will not go away.

My 1991 325iX (215k m) has a nasty rumble that starts @ 40 mph, fades
and then returns strong @ 60 mph.
At 80 mph it is rather annoying.
This happens regardless of which wheel set I am running ( have two )
power on or off.
I have a recent alignment.
I have replaced the rotors (4).
I have replaced the subframe and trailing arm bushings.
I have replaced the guibos in the driveline.
All but the pass. rear halfshafts have been replaced.
This happened with my stock suspension and my lowered version.

I am noticing now that on sustained 40-50mph left hand sweepers that
the right-hand rear rumbles louder.

This is not a wheel bearing noise, at least as I know them, but I
could be totally wrong.

Anyone have any insight?
This is driving me nuts....


-Matt
1991 325iX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 12:24:06 -0600
From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Matt Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E30 325iX rumbles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Is this an automatic or 5spd??

Jenny Morgan


On Jan 13, 2005, at 12:06 PM, Matt Twigg wrote:

> I have mentioned this here in the past and have replaced what I
> thought was the problem....but it will not go away.
>
> My 1991 325iX (215k m) has a nasty rumble that starts @ 40 mph, fades
> and then returns strong @ 60 mph.
> At 80 mph it is rather annoying.
> This happens regardless of which wheel set I am running ( have two )
> power on or off.
> I have a recent alignment.
> I have replaced the rotors (4).
> I have replaced the subframe and trailing arm bushings.
> I have replaced the guibos in the driveline.
> All but the pass. rear halfshafts have been replaced.
> This happened with my stock suspension and my lowered version.
>
> I am noticing now that on sustained 40-50mph left hand sweepers that
> the right-hand rear rumbles louder.
>
> This is not a wheel bearing noise, at least as I know them, but I
> could be totally wrong.
>
> Anyone have any insight?
> This is driving me nuts....
>
>
> -Matt
> 1991 325iX
> Search the  
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> ___
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW  
> CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 13:32:44 -0500
From: Matt Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E30 325iX rumbles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi Jenny,

Sorry I forgot to mention that...

It is a 5-speed.

Thanks,
-Matt


On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 12:24:06 -0600, Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Is this an automatic or 5spd??
> 
> Jenny Morgan
> 
> 
> On Jan 13, 2005, at 12:06 PM, Matt Twigg wrote:
> 
> > I have mentioned this here in the past and have replaced what I
> > thought was the problem....but it will not go away.
> >
> > My 1991 325iX (215k m) has a nasty rumble that starts @ 40 mph, fades
> > and then returns strong @ 60 mph.
> > At 80 mph it is rather annoying.
> > This happens regardless of which wheel set I am running ( have two )
> > power on or off.
> > I have a recent alignment.
> > I have replaced the rotors (4).
> > I have replaced the subframe and trailing arm bushings.
> > I have replaced the guibos in the driveline.
> > All but the pass. rear halfshafts have been replaced.
> > This happened with my stock suspension and my lowered version.
> >
> > I am noticing now that on sustained 40-50mph left hand sweepers that
> > the right-hand rear rumbles louder.
> >
> > This is not a wheel bearing noise, at least as I know them, but I
> > could be totally wrong.
> >
> > Anyone have any insight?
> > This is driving me nuts....
> >
> >
> > -Matt
> > 1991 325iX
> > Search the
> > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________________________________
> > ___
> > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
> > CCA.
> >
> > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:26:39 -0800
From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: E46 Tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I recently purchased an E46 325iT without (unfortunately) the sport 
package.

I am looking to improve handling, turn-in, steering precision, etc. by 
replacing the stock 16" tire/wheelset with a 17" version.

Not for track.  It rains here quite a bit, but the car never comes out 
to play in the snow.  I like quiet tires.

I welcome all opinions!

Thanks,

Tom K.
Hood River, OR


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:38:12 -0800
From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: E46 Tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"It would be easier to upgrade to a higher performance type 16 incher.  
What is on there now?  Going to 17 inch makes the tires more sensitive 
to camber and body roll.  To take full advantage of them you need 
suspension upgrades."

Gary Derian

Umm, oops, sorry.  I guess it would be easier to offer advice if people 
knew my starting point.

Current tires are Michelin MXV4 Plus 205/55/16

Though I hadn't considered it, it sure wouldn't break my heart to stick 
with 16s.  I like the current wheels, and it would leave more $$$ in 
the toy fund if new wheels weren't required.

Thanks!

Tom K.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 13:24:59 -0800
From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected]
Subject: WTB: E36 shift knob
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi All,

Anyone have a 5-speed leather shift knob for an E36 laying around they'd like to
get rid of? No boot needed, just the knob. It's for the race car, so mint
condition not required <g>.

Thanks,
Jim Bassett
1998 M3/4
1993 325is #44 JP

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