The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 499 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [E30Group] E30 Door Electrical Connector Re: E30 Door Electrical Connector Re: E30 Door Electrical Connector <e30> engine hibernation Strut and Lower Ball Joint - Divorce Re: Strut and Lower Ball Joint - Divorce Re: Strut and Lower Ball Joint - Divorce Re: <E46> Jump Starting Re: <E46> Jump Starting <WOB>Re: <E46> Jump Starting
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 18:09:29 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>, "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [E30Group] E30 Door Electrical Connector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Spray with liquid wrench. Pull gently but firmly. Prying will probably break the connector. Gary Derian >I quote from the Bentley E30 manual, Page 14-19, 5.2: > > "On front doors, pull back the protective boot and disconnect the > wiring by squeezing the tabs on the connector and then pulling it out. > See Fig. 5-3." > > Protective boot back, check. > > Squeeze the tabs, check. > > Pull? There is nothing on which to pull excpet wires, and I ain't > going there. OK, let's try prying. Um, it isn't budging. Why? > > So my question is, how much abuse can the connector take before I > destroy it and then hate myself for again starting another project > which I should have farmed out? > > Please include a direct reply if possible, TIA. > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > 1991 325iA w/ intermittant power door locks > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 18:28:09 -0500 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 Door Electrical Connector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> in my experience the wires can take a lot of pulling without a problem (there's a lot of them in the harness) :) and yes, it's a pain to get the connector apart I found that by pulling on the harness with one hand and squeezing the tabs with the other and gently wiggling I can pop the connector apart. You can also push the whole connector (male and female parts together) out from the body of the car from behind I seem to remember.. if you have the speaker/lock computer etc removed, reach in the hole and see if you can squeeze the tabs on the back of the 'car' part of the connector and push If the wires pull out from the connector with the pull-and-wiggle technique (like they did for me before) it's because they were so corroded and basically mushy.. so it didn't worry me (was replacing them anyways). One problem I've had is in replacing the connector - getting the rubber boot to seal again.. make sure it's warm and malleable and kind of push it up over the wires so that it is 'pre-loaded' slightly against the car when the connector snaps back together chris pawlowicz '89 325i '99 z3 2.8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 6:07 PM Subject: [UUC] E30 Door Electrical Connector >I quote from the Bentley E30 manual, Page 14-19, 5.2: > > "On front doors, pull back the protective boot and disconnect the > wiring by squeezing the tabs on the connector and then pulling it out. > See Fig. 5-3." > > Protective boot back, check. > > Squeeze the tabs, check. > > Pull? There is nothing on which to pull excpet wires, and I ain't > going there. OK, let's try prying. Um, it isn't budging. Why? > > So my question is, how much abuse can the connector take before I > destroy it and then hate myself for again starting another project > which I should have farmed out? > > Please include a direct reply if possible, TIA. > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > 1991 325iA w/ intermittant power door locks > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:46:52 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30 Door Electrical Connector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, Exactly the same symptoms on my son's car and exactly the same "door stop" when trying to remove the A pillar connector. Would not budge. I guess with the large pin diameter and number it's in there pretty good, but how does one lever it out of there? I can't wait for the reply. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:29:02 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <e30> engine hibernation Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As soon as the weather gets a little better (warmer) I'll be taking the M20 out of the parts car. In the meanwhile, what is the best way to hibernate the motor so that the cylinders etc. don't rust. Should I just turn it over occasionally? -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 18:57:27 -0500 From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Strut and Lower Ball Joint - Divorce Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ok, Nothing in any book has this but on other cars in order to get the Lower Ball joint away from the Strut, you need a pickle fork... Which makes the seals and the rubber total crap after that encounter. Now, I'm changing the strut cartridges in my 84 318i, and need to remove the lower ball joint to get that thing outta there, do you need the famed Pickle fork? Or are they not like my good ole Chevy and just unbolt like Bentley says... Or will I be replacing the control arms at the same time... This could get expensive... Thanks Art '84 318i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 20:54:47 -0500 From: Matt Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Art Ream <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: E30 Yahoo Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: Strut and Lower Ball Joint - Divorce Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you mean the control arm ball joint - The end of the arm where the joint is should have a short lip on it. I used a block of 2x4 and a dead blow hammer to knock the joint loose. I have also used the technique of loosening the nut until it is even with the end of the threads, jamming in a wooden wedge, and giving that a few whacks with a hard rubber mallet. This will damage the self-locking nut, but nto the threads if you have it backed off enough. ...but you have all new fasterners anyway right? ;^) -Matt 91 325iX On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 18:57:27 -0500, Art Ream <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Ok, > > Nothing in any book has this but on other cars in order to get the Lower > Ball joint away from the Strut, you need a pickle fork... Which makes the > seals and the rubber total crap after that encounter. > > Now, I'm changing the strut cartridges in my 84 318i, and need to remove > the lower ball joint to get that thing outta there, do you need the famed > Pickle fork? Or are they not like my good ole Chevy and just unbolt like > Bentley says... > > Or will I be replacing the control arms at the same time... This could get > expensive... > > Thanks > Art '84 318i > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 18:26:18 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Strut and Lower Ball Joint - Divorce Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you unbolt the swaybar link and control arm bushing holder from the trailing arm you will have enough wiggle room to get the strut housing down and out of the way without needing to undo either ball joint. Wrap hangar wire at six or more places around the spring coils before doing this, so when you lower the strut, the spring stays contracted. Also, before jacking up the car unbolt the strut shaft top nut and leave the upper strut mount in place, so all that drops is the strut shaft and partly compressed spring. Now compress the strut shaft by hand and the tube top comes right out from under the fender lip. This not the standard or orthodox to do it this way, but an easy alternative with no special tools needed. Barry Matt Twigg wrote: >If you mean the control arm ball joint - >The end of the arm where the joint is should have a short lip on it. >I used a block of 2x4 and a dead blow hammer to knock the joint loose. >I have also used the technique of loosening the nut until it is even >with the end of the threads, jamming in a wooden wedge, and giving >that a few whacks with a hard rubber mallet. >This will damage the self-locking nut, but nto the threads if you have >it backed off enough. > > >...but you have all new fasterners anyway right? >;^) > >-Matt > >91 325iX > > >On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 18:57:27 -0500, Art Ream <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >>Ok, >> >> Nothing in any book has this but on other cars in order to get the Lower >>Ball joint away from the Strut, you need a pickle fork... Which makes the >>seals and the rubber total crap after that encounter. >> >> Now, I'm changing the strut cartridges in my 84 318i, and need to remove >>the lower ball joint to get that thing outta there, do you need the famed >>Pickle fork? Or are they not like my good ole Chevy and just unbolt like >>Bentley says... >> >>Or will I be replacing the control arms at the same time... This could get >>expensive... >> >>Thanks >>Art '84 318i >> >>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >>__________________________________________________________________________ >>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> >> >> >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > -- The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh. I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and use a Mac. " Author Unknown Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product. -- Ferenc Mantfeld ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 08:42:00 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E46> Jump Starting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to Andre, and even to Lee, for replies on this subject. It was a small sampling, but I think the answer is, it is not normal for the dash to light up like a Christmas tree (or a Festivus pole, even) after a jump start. I've asked the cow-orker what the dealer said after the "free diagnostic". Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [email protected] >Subject: Re: <E46> Jump Starting >Message-ID: ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >On Fri, 14 Jan 2005, Robinson, Lee wrote: >> The dog seems to have this kind of sixth sense too.....somehow that >> little >> bugger always seems to know when we're heading for the park & when >> the vet >> is the destination..... > >Cars must have this sixth sense as well: my battery died after 4 >years in >my E46, just as I was turning the car on to drive to a driving school, >and >the car had just been through Inspection II and a track tech session! > >Scott, > >My dash did not light up like an Xmas tree, and in fact everything >seemed >pretty normal after a jump start. Perhaps the Japanese ions I got >from my >friend's 350Z soothed it. Perhaps the electronics were jumbled by the >low >battery? > >--Andre ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:38:59 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E46> Jump Starting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> COW ORKER? Does she know you're calling her that? Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 8:42 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E46> Jump Starting Thanks to Andre, and even to Lee, for replies on this subject. It was a small sampling, but I think the answer is, it is not normal for the dash to light up like a Christmas tree (or a Festivus pole, even) after a jump start. I've asked the cow-orker what the dealer said after the "free diagnostic". Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [email protected] >Subject: Re: <E46> Jump Starting >Message-ID: ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >On Fri, 14 Jan 2005, Robinson, Lee wrote: >> The dog seems to have this kind of sixth sense too.....somehow that >> little >> bugger always seems to know when we're heading for the park & when >> the vet >> is the destination..... > >Cars must have this sixth sense as well: my battery died after 4 >years in >my E46, just as I was turning the car on to drive to a driving school, >and >the car had just been through Inspection II and a track tech session! > >Scott, > >My dash did not light up like an Xmas tree, and in fact everything >seemed >pretty normal after a jump start. Perhaps the Japanese ions I got >from my >friend's 350Z soothed it. Perhaps the electronics were jumbled by the >low >battery? > >--Andre Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 10:55:25 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <WOB>Re: <E46> Jump Starting Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> She's probably an induhvidual who would be blissfully ignorant of the insult. Kudos to Scott for shoe-horning both a Dilbert reference and a Seinfeld reference into a 3-sentence post. Brian -----Original Message----- From: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Jan 18, 2005 9:38 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E46> Jump Starting COW ORKER? Does she know you're calling her that? Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 8:42 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E46> Jump Starting Thanks to Andre, and even to Lee, for replies on this subject. It was a small sampling, but I think the answer is, it is not normal for the dash to light up like a Christmas tree (or a Festivus pole, even) after a jump start. I've asked the cow-orker what the dealer said after the "free diagnostic". Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) **********
