The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 517 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <OT> SUV Tires Old Pilot Sports Formula One the Next Generation Re: E30 Cold start then stalling, no restart. Flooded?!?!? Re: E30 Cold start then stalling, no restart. Flooded?!?!? Re: Old Pilot Sports Re: Old Pilot Sports Re: CCA Elections E36: creaks and groans, etc Re: E36: creaks and groans, etc
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 14:29:22 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <OT> SUV Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, I have the Michellin CrossTerrain's on my GMC Silverado. I recommend them highly. They handle very well, good in wet, and ride is also very good. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 15:11:07 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Old Pilot Sports Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do autocrossers have a use for used (not down to wear bars) Pilot Sports? -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 15:55:48 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Formula One the Next Generation Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://members.ez.home.ne.jp/h-h23/movie/n-jr01.wmv -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 17:28:05 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 Cold start then stalling, no restart. Flooded?!?!? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Peter, this could be a couple of things. I agree with Barry that the coolant temp sensor is suspect and should be replaced. The Bentley manual (do you have one yet?) has a test for the impedance at various temperatures, but given current environmental conditions in your area, you would probably have to take it out to test in a pot of hot water anyway, so just replace it. A bad coolant temp sensor sounds to me like it fits with the inability to rev over 3500 RPM - it just can't get the mixture right to reach higher revs. There are two sensors on top of the engine, the one you want to change has 2 wires. The one with 1 wire feeds the dash gauge. You say it starts and idles fine when cold, but the problems start when you try to drive. There is a throttle position switch on the throttle body. It should click something like 5mm off of the rest position. That should signal the ECU to switch from the idle control circuit to the main fuel/spark maps. If the switch is not working, the ECU will continue to try running the engine off of the idle control valve while you have the throttle open. Check the operation of the switch. The Bentley manual gives you test specs. Besides the idle position, it also has a WOT position. The switch connects to the wiring harness at a connector under the throttle body. Coolant from the throttle body heater has been known to leak into the connector and corrode the terminals. Your car does not have a thermo time switch, that was on the eta engines (325e/es, 528e). If you decide to test the AFM, disconnect it and figure out which terminals measure the resistance of the trace on the board. Swing the door open and closed. Change in resistance should be linear without any spikes either way. Does your check engine light work? That's the red one on the left side of the dash, not the one that blinks orange when you start the car until you step on the brake. If the check engine light is on, you can do the "stomp test" and read the coded blinkies. I would think a bad O2 sensor would set a check engine light. You're correct in your assumption that the naughty behavior is not normal. Good luck, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i 1991 325iA >Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 01:37:16 +0000 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [email protected] >Subject: E30 Cold start then stalling, no restart. Flooded?!?!? >Message-ID: <012820050137.8271.41 [EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Hi Y'all, > >First time post here.� My first BMW is not treating me well on cold mornings.� This 1990 325i has 174k, 5 spd., >new plugs (correct Bosch copper), and new fuel filter, correct fuel pressure, ans valves adjusted.� I've changed the >air filter and checked the air flow meter for cleanliness and freedom of movement.� 40k ago, new timing belt, O2 sensor, >and cap, rotor and wires were all done by Princeton BMW in N.J. > >Problem: When I start the car in cold teens and twenties here in Chicago, the car starts after a one-one thousand count. >The car will start even at single digits.� If I try to drive the car within 2 or 3 minutes, the engine will stumble when the >clutch is first let out, and proceed to cut out/stall.� What I experience next is only describable as a flooded engine. >The engine will not restart, even after cranking it for 20 to 30 second spirts, for over 5 minutes of trying to restart it. >I've been late for work 3 times now because of this "flooded" condition. Please, anyone, don't tell me that this is normal >for a E30. > >I've had this car since Turkey-day, and I don't have a warm weather experience to compare the engines behavior with. >When it's running and at operating temp, the engine isn't really willing to rev past 3500 rpm., it will yet, not without what feels >like a flat spot in the power band, and even then it's uninspiring top end power.� I've owned other european cars with Bosch >motronic/jetronic that have never done this to me ( cold no restart ). > >I'm wondering if the following are the culprits; AFM ( especially the temp sensor part within ), thermo time switch, O2 sensor, >plugged Cat-converter, or fuel pressure regulator. > >I'm refusing to put my BMWCCA sticker in the rear quarter window untill this problem is solved. > >Peter Harkonen >1990 325i 5spd. 174k >Chicagoland ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 18:30:24 -0800 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30 Cold start then stalling, no restart. Flooded?!?!? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, Jan 28, 2005 at 05:28:05PM -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > If you decide to test the AFM, disconnect it and figure out which > terminals measure the resistance of the trace on the board. Swing the > door open and closed. Change in resistance should be linear without > any spikes either way. In my experience, measuring the resistance of the AFM potentiometer with my DMM was a disaster. The resistance between the end and the wiper part jumped all over with only a basic trend toward increasing or decreasing. When I applied a 5V potential across the device and measured the voltage at the wiper, I got a perfectly smooth response as it should be. I believe this is how the thing is read while in operation anyway. HTH, YMMV, KTHX, OMG, WTF, BBQ! -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 05:36:32 -0500 From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Old Pilot Sports Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do autocrossers have a use for used (not down to wear bars) Pilot Sports? -Kevin My best autocrossing was done on Bridgestone S-03s worn down almost to the wear bars. They seemed to have a grip of iron on dry pavement. Damn near cried when one of them finally picked up a nail near the sidewall and couldn't be repaired. Dave Meyer 99 M coupe Stafford VA -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.2 - Release Date: 1/28/2005 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 09:02:06 -0800 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Old Pilot Sports Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sat, Jan 29, 2005 at 05:36:32AM -0500, Dave Meyer wrote: > Do autocrossers have a use for used (not down to wear bars) Pilot Sports? > -Kevin > > My best autocrossing was done on Bridgestone S-03s worn down almost to > the wear bars. They seemed to have a grip of iron on dry pavement. > Damn near cried when one of them finally picked up a nail near the > sidewall and couldn't be repaired. I did not appreciate my worn S-03s enough until I switched to Kumho 712s 'cuz I was cheap. I am showing them no mercy until they are gone. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 10:24:05 -0500 From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: CCA Elections Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steven Schlossman wrote: > >There is a candidacy statement in the next Roundel. > >It is important that you save your mailing label from your Roundel. >Be sure to send in the correct postcard for your region. >Associate members have received a voting card in the mail. Actually, that would be the January Roundel, not necessarily the "next" one. If you wait for the next one, February, you'll not find a ballot or a removable label for voting, Deadline for your ballot to reach South Carolina is February 14, so don't delay. If you did not receive a ballot or a Roundel, contact the national office. If you threw your mailing insert away with your voting sticker, shame on you but call the office anyway. They'll make every attempt to accommodate your request. -Phil Marx ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 12:54:55 -0600 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: E36: creaks and groans, etc Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My 92 325i is making a high pitched groan noise. The noise is only there when the car is cold and backing up first time of the day and is more noticeable in cold ambient temp. I've even backed it in the night before and when it's cold going forward it's not there. Thinking it could have been a cold ps fluid viscosity issue, the ps reservoir and integral filter have been replaced and that didn't help. The noise gets louder when the steering wheel is turned either way and can be felt in the wheel, but goes away after the first backup of the day out of my parking spot where I live. Tranny is a slushbox that was replaced about 30K miles ago. Current odometer reading is 113K. The creaking/crunching noise coming from the front happens when I go over a speed bump and is not dependent on engine temp but is more noticeable when ambient temp is cold. Ball joints on both sides were replaced about 3 yrs ago at around 70K miles. Struts/springs are original. Now for the etc. Does anyone have a recommendation for good aftermarket floor mats? I've replaced the OEMs with new OEMs and they only lasted about 2 yrs and the fasteners are already coming out of the mats and the other part that screws into the carpet has been shot for quite a while. Any suggestions would be appreciated....just don't want to spend a fortune on new OEM ones that won't last again. TIA, Phil 92 E36/M50 with midlife creaks and groans ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 12:21:14 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: E36: creaks and groans, etc Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Could that first time of the day high pitched groan in reverse be coming from the parking brake pads? Have experienced that before, found crud accumulation in and around them and the mechanism. hth, Barry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > My 92 325i is making a high pitched groan noise. The noise is only > there when the car is cold and backing up first time of the day and is > more noticeable in cold ambient temp. I've even backed it in the > night before and when it's cold going forward it's not there. <....> ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) **********
