The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 813 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
  Re: <OT>Allstate insurance
  <E36> window problems
  Wet brake dust
  Re: Wet brake dust
  Re: Wet brake dust
  Re: Wet brake dust
  Porsche to take 20% VW stake 
  Re: <OT>Allstate insurance
  Re: <OT>Allstate insurance

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:25:36 -0500
From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Marc,
I am pretty confident that you are not paying a surcharge for a loss 
that occurred
10 years ago...  Generally, a surcharge lasts for 3 years.. It is 
*possible* that you
are being classed differently.. perhaps you were in the  SF Mutual 
company and
for some reason were moved to a  higher risk group like SF Fire and 
Casualty...?
If so.. I would still think that if you have had 3 years with no losses 
that you would
be moved back up...  Rereading your post... you are saying no losses for 
you or
your spouse in the last 10 years??   I emphasize  say how strongly I  I 
think that
this is NOT the case..  You probably need to have a chat with your 
agent.....
review the rate quote you have received from Allstate... read the POLICY
(contract) that Allstate would insure  you under, and then compare it 
with your
 SF policy, and then make an informed decision...

For the sake of argument however.. *assuming* that your rates were 
affected for a
10 year period and the loss was in 1995.. wouldn't you be seeing the effects
removed at your next renewal???  There's only 3 months left in  2005 and so
a loss that occurred  in December would come off in December and therefore
the lower rate would apply at the next renewal .... Again.. I *strongly* 
doubt
that you have had a 10 year surcharge

Regarding the people that indicated that Allstate would not cover them 
in any
loss at a racing facility... are you folks all in Massachusetts????  The 
policy for
MA has that sort or language... it applies to ALL insurance companies 
that write
insurance in MA because the state writes the policy and all insurers 
must use it..
So Marc.. if you live in Massachusetts.. the SF policy also would not 
cover your
vehicle for a loss at a track.. However if Allstate has indeed adopted 
this policy
for National use, then  it sounds like  you need to stay put..   You'll 
have to read
your actual policy  (check the exclusions under liability and collision 
coverages)
to confirm, but as I understand it.. in most states, there are no 
exclusions on the
State Farm policy  regarding losses at a track... *Racing* may be excluded,
but a DE or lapping day is not racing..

At any rate... I have seen many DE . loses with SF that were covered... I
have two personal friends that have made claims and had them handled...
As a matter of fact, I've never seen a DE loss *not* covered by SF...
Mind you...; I am not making any guarantees.. just relating my experience...
and of course...  the policyholder might get dropped afterwards... but 
as Mr.
Howton eloquently stated...  DE/lapping day driving is not  what the
underwriters had intended ! 


Mark Williams
Dallas, TX
claim rep by day...


PS.. don't move to Texas!! my  homeowner's premiums alone on a
150K house  are more than  you are paying for a house and 2 cars!!

>
>Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 08:45:11 -0500
>From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: <OT>Allstate insurance
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>After being with State farm since 1987, I'm on the verge of moving my auto and 
>homeowners insurance to Allstate, and I wanted a quick sanity check before 
>moving.  The reason I'm moving is simple economics...$1400/yr in premiums for 
>a house a 1997 BMW M3 and a 2002 Audi Allroad with two adult (late 30s early 
>40s) drivers.  While probing into the pricing differences, my wife uncovered 
>an interesting tidbit...my rates with State Farm are apparently still impacted 
>by an accident I had back in 1995.  I didn't realize that it took 10 years to 
>wipe an accident off of the books (No tickets or accidents since).
>
>Another close follower in our comparison was the insurance offered by Costco, 
>though I'm a bit more comfortable (familiar?) with the Allstate brand.
>
>Any major condemnations of Allstate before I pull the trigger? Looking for 
>structural items that I need to worry about...non tolerance of the M being on 
>the track for DEs, bad responses to claims in terms of conservative claim 
>treatment or aggressive rate adjustments afterwards...
>
>Thanks
>
>Marc Plante
>1997 E36 M3/4 67k
>2005 Child (On Order)
>
>  
>


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:05:18 -0400
From: BMW UUC Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <OT>Allstate insurance
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I would however argue that you are still safer doing what you are 
doing rather than sharing the interstate at 70+ mph with these mini 
van driving, cell phone using, low functioning drivers that I come 
across everyday.

If it weren't for the fact that I only drive high performance 
vehicles and that I have considerable time on a racecourse driving at 
99.999% of my vehicles potential, I would have been involved in some 
catastrophic wrecks. The combination of the capability of the 
vehicles and my driving experience have allowed me to drive out of 
and around quite a few accidents.

When it comes to safety, I'll take track time over highway time next 
to the average driver any day.

You're probably safer where you are than I will be driving to the 
office tomorrow morning....

---
Michael K Donohue
System Administrator
UUC Digest
http://www.uucdigest.com

At 10:20 AM 9/25/2005, you wrote:
>HaHaHaHa.
>
>I am writing this from my laptop in a hotel room in Plymouth 
>Wisonsin, I spent the last two days tear-assing around Road America 
>-- I'll be back there tomorrow.  I hit 130 MPH approximately 55 
>times today and then braked at the limit of my tires adhesion before 
>entering turns 1 and 12.  100 MPH through the kink coming within 
>inches of the rumble
>strip at turn-in and apex with only six feet of grass between the 
>car and the concrete at track-out; I don't think that's what the 
>underwriters had in mind when the wrote my policy (Comprehensive, 
>$1K deductible for ~$600/Year).  BTW, today was my 18th track day 
>this year and I am having a blast.  The only fly in this weekend's 
>ointment is the 90% chance of rain tomorrow, at least I have a set 
>of S-03's with me.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:21:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: <E36> window problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm pretty sure this has been discussed before, so I
tried searching the archives to no avail (I really
think we need some sort of better archive search tool,
BTW).

In any case, sometimes when I roll up the passenger
window of my 95 M3, the window goes up halfway then
stops and reverses direction.  I'm thinking this is
something to do with the finger protection feature,
but what is the most likely cause of this inadvertent
activation?  The motor itself binding internally?  The
window seal causing too much friction because of bad
window alignment?  Something else?

It only does it occasionally, but it's started to
happen slightly more frequently in the past week or
two.  I do notice a difference in sound in the
passenger and driver's door when closing them.  Sounds
like something loose and rattling in the passenger's
door when it closes; it's been like that though since
before this problem started occuring...

Thanks,
Brian


                
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:25:17 -0400
From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Wet brake dust
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


So after a track day in the wet last week I noticed the brake dust on my
wheels was a little 'different'.  Instead of a relatively even film of
dust that washes off rather easily, this was more of a thick paste that
nothing short of sandblasting seems to be able to remove from the wheel!

Pads: PFC97 compound pads
Wheels: painted BBS RK (not polished, just the original paint)

I've experienced a similar scenario with Hawk Blue compound pads from
use in the rain, but with a bunch of elbow grease it came off.  This
stuff is far more stubborn.  I'm not talking just needing a stiffer
scrub brush either, I've spent ~2 hours on 2 wheels and they are not
even close to clean.  It's like rail dust that collected in clumps at
the base and leading edge of each wheel spoke.

Any ideas?  I'm I stuck with refinishing these wheels?  If so, how the
heck do I keep this from happening again?  I'm not exactly willing to
not run in the rain, it is too much fun and such a great learning
opportunity to waste.

Surely the racers that brave rainy weather have some ideas on this
one????

I spent a couple hours getting the same sort of crap off the painted
surfaced of the car as well.

Thanks!
Chet Dawes

****************************************************************************************

Note:  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an 
employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended 
recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or 
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communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message 
and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.

****************************************************************************************


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:09:12 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wet brake dust
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

lots of soaking with simple green supplemented by scrubbing will start to get 
it off.  I used a continuous soaking of simple green while cleaning all the 
cars (for a couple hours supplemented by a stiff brush and a plastic snow 
scraper on my polished BBS Rzs.   People that are extremely frustrated have 
been known to use oven cleaner with a fair amount of success, though you'll 
dull your wheel's paint finish.  

I had pretty good luck with the Carbo Tech XP8s.  Not quite as much initial 
bite, (bit less than I remember the old PF90s to have) but easy to modulate and 
enough friction for all but the harshest braking tracks (I think of the main 
straight at Summit Point which is a 60 MPH hairpin after a 125-135 mph straight 
as kind of harsh in braking requirements).   They're also more streetable to 
get to and from the track, and they don't seem to leave the same killer paste 
on the wheels.  Going up to their XP 9s should get you a little more bite.

Marc Plante
1997 E36 M3/4 67k
2005 child (one month and counting)
Vienna, VA

----- Original Message -----
From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: [UUC]  Wet brake dust
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:25:17 -0400

> 
> 
> So after a track day in the wet last week I noticed the brake dust on my
> wheels was a little 'different'.  Instead of a relatively even film of
> dust that washes off rather easily, this was more of a thick paste that
> nothing short of sandblasting seems to be able to remove from the wheel!
> 
> Pads: PFC97 compound pads
> Wheels: painted BBS RK (not polished, just the original paint)
> 
> I've experienced a similar scenario with Hawk Blue compound pads from
> use in the rain, but with a bunch of elbow grease it came off.  This
> stuff is far more stubborn.  I'm not talking just needing a stiffer
> scrub brush either, I've spent ~2 hours on 2 wheels and they are not
> even close to clean.  It's like rail dust that collected in clumps at
> the base and leading edge of each wheel spoke.
> 
> Any ideas?  I'm I stuck with refinishing these wheels?  If so, how the
> heck do I keep this from happening again?  I'm not exactly willing to
> not run in the rain, it is too much fun and such a great learning
> opportunity to waste.
> 
> Surely the racers that brave rainy weather have some ideas on this
> one????
> 
> I spent a couple hours getting the same sort of crap off the painted
> surfaced of the car as well.
> 
> Thanks!
> Chet Dawes
> 
> ****************************************************************************************
> 
> Note:  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, 
> or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to 
> the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any 
> dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is 
> strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in 
> error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and 
> deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
> 
> ****************************************************************************************
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 06:22:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wet brake dust
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> People that are extremely frustrated have been known to use oven
> cleaner with a fair amount of success, though you'll dull your
> wheel's paint finish.  

I've had decent luck by waxing the wheels prior to the events.  Last
time I ran Hawk Blues in the rain at Grattan it was with a set of
borrowed wheels from Ben Keyes that had wax on them.  They cleaned
right up and quite easily.  I think the last Mid-Ohio event I ran in
the rain the car had Hawk HT-8s and I used my waxed (w/Zymol ooooooh)
Koseis, again they cleaned up nicely.  Oh and btw the racers aren't
immune to this, you see some pretty nasty brake dusty wheels on some of
those cars.  Others always seem to have new looking super shiny wheels
but then again so are their cars.  :-)

Good luck,

Carlos
98 M3 still has rubber marks from VIR
E30 325is hasn't been to the track yet :(


                
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:34:25 -0500
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wet brake dust
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm running the XP9s and so far haven't had problems cleaning the dust. 
  But I'll find out in a day or so how the dust cleans off under the 
current conditions: I had been running them on the street for weeks and 
didn't clean my wheels before this weekend's event, which saw lots of 
rain.  I did nothing after coming home last night other than unpack the 
car. I might clean the wheels tonight.  I'll report back if there are 
any problems.

BTW, the XP9s are being discontinued. As backup, I had to go to XP10s 
for my '87 325.  Not needing the 10s this weekend, it'll be next year 
before I track again. However, I had been much happier w/the XP9s (using 
XP8s in the rear) than Hawk Blues.  I attend Gingerman, Blackhawk, and 
Road America.

Clarence
West Bend, WI

Marc Plante wrote:
> lots of soaking with simple green supplemented by scrubbing will start to get 
> it off.  I used a continuous soaking of simple green while cleaning all the 
> cars (for a couple hours supplemented by a stiff brush and a plastic snow 
> scraper on my polished BBS Rzs.   People that are extremely frustrated have 
> been known to use oven cleaner with a fair amount of success, though you'll 
> dull your wheel's paint finish.  
> 
> I had pretty good luck with the Carbo Tech XP8s.  Not quite as much initial 
> bite, (bit less than I remember the old PF90s to have) but easy to modulate 
> and enough friction for all but the harshest braking tracks (I think of the 
> main straight at Summit Point which is a 60 MPH hairpin after a 125-135 mph 
> straight as kind of harsh in braking requirements).   They're also more 
> streetable to get to and from the track, and they don't seem to leave the 
> same killer paste on the wheels.  Going up to their XP 9s should get you a 
> little more bite.
> 
> Marc Plante
> 1997 E36 M3/4 67k
> 2005 child (one month and counting)
> Vienna, VA
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: [UUC]  Wet brake dust
> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:25:17 -0400
> 
> 
>>
>>So after a track day in the wet last week I noticed the brake dust on my
>>wheels was a little 'different'.  Instead of a relatively even film of
>>dust that washes off rather easily, this was more of a thick paste that
>>nothing short of sandblasting seems to be able to remove from the wheel!
>>
>>Pads: PFC97 compound pads
>>Wheels: painted BBS RK (not polished, just the original paint)
>>
>>I've experienced a similar scenario with Hawk Blue compound pads from
>>use in the rain, but with a bunch of elbow grease it came off.  This
>>stuff is far more stubborn.  I'm not talking just needing a stiffer
>>scrub brush either, I've spent ~2 hours on 2 wheels and they are not
>>even close to clean.  It's like rail dust that collected in clumps at
>>the base and leading edge of each wheel spoke.
>>
>>Any ideas?  I'm I stuck with refinishing these wheels?  If so, how the
>>heck do I keep this from happening again?  I'm not exactly willing to
>>not run in the rain, it is too much fun and such a great learning
>>opportunity to waste.
>>
>>Surely the racers that brave rainy weather have some ideas on this
>>one????
>>
>>I spent a couple hours getting the same sort of crap off the painted
>>surfaced of the car as well.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Chet Dawes
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:14:16 -0400
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'911/993/996'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "'Ferrari List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "BMW List" <[email protected]>
Subject: Porsche to take 20% VW stake 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Porsche to take 20% VW stake 
By Steve Goldstein, MarketWatch
 
LONDON (MarketWatch) -- Porsche AG said it plans to take a stake of fellow
German carmaker Volkswagen AG of 20% in a friendly deal that could be valued
at $3.6 billion.
 
The move by Stuttgart-based Porsche (DE:693773: news, chart, profile) would
make it the largest shareholder in Wolfsburg-based Volkswagen (DE:766400:
news, chart, profile) and make it more difficult for a hostile takeover of
Europe's largest automaker by unit sales. 

Volkswagen supplies Porsche with key components, including the body
structure for the Cayenne, one of Porsche's most important models.

"(Porsche) can't take the risk of a takeover, they have to do it," said
Malte Schaumann, an analyst at SES Research.

But the move was taken poorly by Porsche shareholders, who had expected a
share buyback or dividend increase from the luxury automaker. Porsche also
was criticized for buying VW now, rather than during the first half of the
year.


 
Porsche shares dropped 8.8% in mid-day German trade. 

"What becomes painfully obvious is that investors in Porsche have no say in
strategy," said Stephan Droxner, an analyst at German bank LBBW.

While the Porsche and Piech families own 50% of Porsche, they control all of
the voting rights.

Deutsche Bank downgraded Porsche shares to sell following the news.

Volkswagen shares see-sawed, and recently climbed 1.1%.

Acting ahead of EU

Porsche said it was acting before European Union authorities move to
overturn a rule that caps any VW shareholder's voting rights at 20%, noting
that the EU has pushed Germany to scrap the law, a step that could open the
door to a hostile bid for Volkswagen.

The German state of Lower Saxony, Volkswagen's current largest shareholder
with an 18% stake, is supporting Porsche's move, as is Volkswagen
management.

Volkswagen's shares have soared recently on rumors that an investor, notably
Carl Icahn, was building a big stake. Porsche said it's acquired a stake of
less than 5% already in VW.

Porsche Chief Executive Wendelin Wiedeking said the investment represents
the "strategic answer" to the risk Porsche would face if Volkswagen were
bought.

The ties between Porsche and Volkswagen go back more than a half-century.
Ferdinand Porsche was a designer of Volkswagen's original Beetle. His
descendants own more than half of Porsche's stock and voting shares. 

Porsche's grandson, Ferdinand Piech, is a former Volkswagen CEO, heads
Volkswagen's supervisory board and sits on Porsche's supervisory board.

Piech is widely seen as the driving force behind the deal.

The Cayenne isn't the first vehicle on which Porsche and VW collaborated.
>From the 1970-76 model years, Porsche marketed the 914, built from Porsche
parts and a VW engine.

Price unknown

It's still not clear how much Porsche will pay for the stake. Most analysts
are expecting Porsche to buy the 41 million shares held in VW's treasury,
rather than make another open-market buy.

"We caution against being too enthusiastic (on VW) before we know what
Porsche is willing to pay," said Droxner.

Jochen Gehrke, an analyst at Kepler Equities, said the move, combined with
Friday's decision to sell Europcar International, will fund VW's
restructuring plan if Porsche acquires Volkswagen's treasury shares. 

"It should give (VW) 3 billion euros in cash they can put into
restructuring," he said.
 




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 06:27:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <OT>Allstate insurance
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I don't necessarily disagree with you, but....

"They do not consider the additional risk of you
driving on the track when they calculate your premiums
so why _should_ they cover you?"

This is just not a convincing arguement.  There are
FAR MORE risk factors that can not be calculated, but
which are covered nevertheless.

-Paul
96 328i
03 G35
98 Panoz AIV

--- Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I have been insured with Allstate for 15 years and
> all in all I am
> very pleased.  The rates are lower than I have found
> anywhere and they
> have been fantastic to deal with in three major
> claims.  I totalled a
> Porsche 928 S4 on the highway, totally my fault and
> they covered me
> (negotiated value which was more than I paid for the
> car) and the
> premium went up nominally.
> 
> They specifically exclude any claims ocurring at any
> racetrack which I
> think is a little draconian, however expecting any
> insurance company
> to cover possible damage at Driver's Ed events I
> think is wrong;
> unless  you specifically state that that's what you
> are going to be
> doing with your car before they write the policy. 
> They do not
> consider the additional risk of you driving on the
> track when they
> calculate your premiums so why _should_ they cover
> you?
> 
> BTW, I don't work for an insurance company and I
> have done 18 track
> days so far this year including Friday and today at
> Road America,
> tomorrow too...
> 
> --
> Jamie Howton
> 2000 M5
> 1995 M3
> Hampshire, IL
> 
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



                
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 09:21:12 -0500
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <OT>Allstate insurance
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I know that all of us track junkies do drive our street cars on the
track, but that was not their intended purpose when they were designed
and built.  When underwriters write insurance policies, they consider
"normal" useage of cars like sitting in traffic sipping a late while
talking on your cellphone and adjusting the stereo at the same time. 
Whether that is a more risky behavior than track driving, I don't
know.
When I consider the accidents I see on a weekly basis on the highway,
maybe three per month on I-90 through Chicago (guessing but maybe
100,000 cars per day) and compare that to a typical track weekend
average of 4-5 wrecked cars out of 200, it seems to me that the risks
are higher at the track.  If anyone has any statistics to refute my
observations I would love to hear them, but I just dont' buy the
argument that on-track driving is in any way safer than the average
person's normal commute.

--
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

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