Re: [lace] Virginia Churchill Bath book - the review

[Jeriames]

My recent review of this book appeared in the November 2016 newsletter  of 
The New England Lace Group.  I thought it had stood the test of time  quite 
well, and deserved a new introduction to today's lace makers.  (It  was 
originally published in 1974.)
 
If you own the book "Lace" and would like to read the very  current review, 
and perhaps make a copy of it to put in your book,  click on the photo of 
the book jacket after you select Book Reviews on the home  page at:
 
_www.nelg.us_ (http://www.nelg.us) 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 
In a message dated 11/23/2016 2:44:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suebabbs...@gmail.com writes:

Hi
I  have had a paper-back copy of Virginia Churchill Bath’s book  “
Lace”
given to me, but I already have a copy.  I will happily  give it to anyone 
who
wants it, but would like to recover the costs of  shipping from Illinois to 
the
recipient.  The book weighs just over 2  lb.

If I get multiple people wanting it, I will draw a name out of a  hat for 
the
lucky winner.  Deadline midnight on Sunday 27th  November

Sue

suebabbs...@gmail.com
http://babbsandbaobabs.blogspot.com/



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[lace] Lace in Norway - 2

[Jeriames]

Before the weekend, I requested information about lace to be seen in  
Norway and asked whether there is a national lace organization in that  
country.  
There have been no replies.  Before this gets lost too low  in the recent 
mails portion of our archives, would someone please write  from a non-AOL 
account something that will alert people to this request?
 
The letter I sent is here, dated November 17th:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html
 
Perhaps it should be noted that I do have comprehensive information about  
the embroideries made in Norway and about regional folk costumes.   However, 
that does not help with this special request of interest in metal and  
metallic laces both old and new.  People to meet?   Museum collections to 
visit? 
 Lace days or group lace  meetings?  National lace group?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lace in Norway

[Jeriames]

An international lace expert has sent me the following request, and  since 
I have never been to Norway, I think it best to ask on Arachne what is  
happening in June 2017 that is lace-related in that country.  Please  send 
replies to me, with contact information, and I will see that this  well-known 
lace expert gets them.  Any lace group in Norway  would be very thrilled to 
have her visit them.
 
"Our plan so far is that I will spend a week or so with a friend in Denmark 
 and then go on to Norway where my husband will meet me.  We hope to  rent 
a car and drive some of the scenic routes ending in either Lillehammer or  
Oslo where we will take a train to Linkoping, Sweden.
 
"While in Norway I'd like to see some exhibitions of lace, particularly  
metal lace, and attend a lace day, if one is going on.  Can you tell me the  
name of the Norwegian Lace group?  Also, any recommendations you might have  
for places to see lace collections would be much appreciated."
 
This couple came to Maine a few months ago, so she could do research in my  
lace library.  Her husband, who is creative in his own right,  disappeared 
with their car during the two days she was working - pursing  his own 
interests.  This made their visit with me very  easy. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center   

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Re: [lace] The Lace Makers of Narsapur - book

[Jeriames]

To reassure all that this history is being preserved - a copy of this  book 
is in my Lace Library.  It is about the history of these women, and  
contains statistics, trade practices, political overtones, explanations of the  
caste system, and that sort of thing.  Though I read it  cover-to-cover, I 
must report finding it rather dull.  The book jacket  describes it as being 
about women in the third world and relates it  to international labour studies. 
 Published in London in 1982.   I'm afraid the poor lace-making women of 
India were like the  poor lace-making peasant women in Europe - taken 
advantage of at every  opportunity.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 
In a message dated 11/14/2016 11:18:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
brid...@bigpond.com writes:

http://www.spinifexpress.com.au/Bookstore/book/id=231/

The  above link may be of interests to a few readers. It includes a  podcast
interview.

Brian

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Re: [lace] Linen Thread Storage

[Jeriames]

Dear Joseph,
 
A couple years ago, I heard from someone with a museum lace collection that 
 they had determined that some varieties of Acid Free tissue were  drying.  
And so, they were changing their procedures.  Perhaps  Devon can share some 
light on the subject.
 
The other thing to consider is whether the thread is wound on some kind of  
paper product.  I say this, because years ago they might have  used 
cardboard made from rags (cloth).  However, today, manufacturers  are not 
always 
aware, and do not think of such things.  A wood product  would introduce acid 
into the thread.
 
Perhaps you should tell us the name of the thread manufacturer, and then  
Brenda will know more about it.  If there is a paper label, remove it, and  
place it in a fold of whatever you are using to wrap the thread.  Do not  
leave it on the thread.
 
I think that I might use a well-rinsed (of all bleaches and soaps) linen  
towel as the wrap.  

The main thing is to not let linen get too dry, or it will break.  It  is 
compatible with water from the retting process, but once you put it  in home 
storage, it should still be checked from time to time.  

 
And, as with all storage of lace - right now - write on your annual  
calendar to check the condition of the thread 2 times a year (Summer and  
Winter). 
 This needs to be transferred to the new calendar every year, just  like 
you may make notes about birthdays.  I've recommended 2 times a  year, because 
the home's atmosphere is different then.
 
Never store linen/lace in an attic or basement.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
In a message dated 11/9/2016 6:47:54 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
graceadlerdesi...@outlook.com writes:

We don't live in a centrally heated  house, so that's not a problem.

I can install a small ventilated cabinet  in the bathroom if need be. I was 
more thinking about some sort of  humidor.

I have some Acid-Free tissue on order at the  moment.Regards, Joseph

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[lace] IOLI summer bulletin

[Jeriames]

Since I raised the question of when we should expect it - the Summer  2016 
bulletin was in my mail on Saturday.
 
Most members would not understand this concern, but librarians  would.  
Every issue is in my lace research library, and once in the past  the 
dates/volume numbers got all mixed up on the covers of the Bulletins  because 
of some 
internal upheaval.  It will be confusing in the future for  someone to 
"work out that old 20th C. problem" when organizing them.   Was concerned we 
could have a similar situaton in 2016.
 
Thanks to all who responded from different locations around the U.S.
 
Best wishes to the Editor, and thanks to those who may have helped to get  
the bulletin to us.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Thistle's Million Dollars of Custom-Manufactured Threads

[Jeriames]

Sue M.,  Were you at Winterthur 2 weeks ago?
 
This old lady (Jeri) is getting tired of writing about all the  interesting 
lace-related information learned on a daily basis.  Yet,  many people 
protest there is no news for lacemakers ?   I need  apprentices !  Volunteers !
 
Several younger members of Arachne attended the  2016 Needlework Conference 
at Winterthur Museum a couple weeks ago.
 
Please share your notes about the first presenter Tricia Wilson  Nguyen, 
Owner of Thistle Threads in Massachusetts, whose talk was about the many  
custom-made threads she has had manufactured.  These include metal wrapped  
threads.  Yes, it has cost over $1-million to do, and that is why only the  
most 
privileged embroiderers make her reproduction 17th C. embroideries from the 
 kits she designs, assembles and sells!   Nguyen is a force  to be reckoned 
with:  She is a business owner, mother raising  children, educator, 
consultant to museums, and working engineer.  (And  we think we are busy?)
 
Laces have the advantage of space (holes) and one costly spool of  thread 
can make a dramatic impact.  
 
You can spend days - weeks - months reading the vast amount of  information 
at:
 
http://thistle-threads.blogspot.com/
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 10/21/2016 8:42:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bespokethreadsandya...@gmail.com writes:

Technically, the thesis includes replicating metal wrapped threads  but 
linen thread is also being required. Spinning is the easy part, making  lace 
samples in triplicate will be my challenge as a novice. 

Sue  M

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Re: [lace] Small production flax

[Jeriames]

Dear Sue M,
 
Where are you located?  We keep asking, because  correspondents fail to 
give us an idea of the country in which they  live.  It becomes relevant when 
someone tries to be of help.  A search  (extra time for us to do) for your 
business brought up Indiana, U.S.A.  Is  this correct? 
 
My lace and embroidery library has some linen industry books that may be  
interesting to read (a sort of bibliography for your studies).  I did not  
disclose all in my memo of October 17th, but have not neglected collecting 
books  about the fibers used to make lace and embroidery.  Because the lace  
and embroidery organizations to which we belong rarely collect for  their 
lending libraries beyond the subjects of embroidery and lace, my  collecting 
focus was expanded to include "Other Related Subjects" (about  1,000 volumes).  
 
You might like to read a report from Denmark:
 
http://ribevikingecenter.dk/media/10424/Flaxreport.pdf 
 
This was so informative - about experiments with flax - that I bought  a 
one-inch deep looseleaf binder and made a permanent book for the  library.  
There is a long list of references given, and the book prints to  86 pages.
 
If you'd like to learn about the Belgian flax history, it is  doubtful 
there is anything better than the Bert DeWilde book:  "Flax  in Flanders 
Throughout the Centuries - History..Technical  Evolution..Folklore".  The 
National 
Museum of Linen and Lace Museum in  Kortrijk (Courtrai, in French) will 
probably be on the lace tour  in 2018, sponsored by the Belgian Lace Group.  My 
 
Goo...Search came up with an address that showed architectural buildings in 
 Belgium.  Perhaps an Arachne member in Belgium can supply an  address 
where we can at least read in English about the National Flax  and Lace 
Museum?? 
 If they do not have a web site, let us ask Santa Claus  for someone to 
volunteer!
 
A variety of museum references is at this private  (non-commercial) site, 
though you may have to search for their web  sites:
 
https://www.linenme.com/news/flax-linen-museums/ 
 
Your thesis subject reminds of the extensive work Gil Dye has done to  
replicate early laces from visually studying lace details on early  portraits.  
I hope you have tried to use her bobbin lace instructions  to make samples.  
You mention metal-wrapped threads, which reminded of Lena  Dahren's  2010 
271 pg. Uppsala University thesis (Swedish language,  with English summary) 
"Med Kant av Guld Och Silver 1550-1640" (Metal Lace of  Gold and Silver) 
978-91-628-8196-2, $80.  Dahren speaks English and is a  very approachable 
OIDFA 
member.  The International Organization of Lace in  the U.S. does not have 
in their library.  Perhaps a local lace group would  have it, or you could 
try InterLibrary Loan  
 
See?  That is why we need to know where you are located when you write  to 
Arachne!!!  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
 
In a message dated 10/21/2016 8:42:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bespokethreadsandya...@gmail.com writes:

The  process being proposed by Brenda Paternoster is exactly what I have 
been doing  for six years. Yearly, I grow a small plot, harvest, rett, break 
once my  husband finishes building a new break.  What is easiest at home is 
to  harvest exactly when ripe. I have read that slightly 'green' flax stalks 
may  produce finest threads.  I have a select bunch to test this idea. One  
issue about saving seed and replanting is that flax must be harvested before 
 the seed heads burst otherwise the fiber strands become overripe and  
unusable.  Hear that the seeds available at harvest are too immature to  
germinate. I believe back in the day they would have let  some flax to  fully 
mature ( over ripen) just for seed. 

Really, even if the finest  flax plants were developed, commercial 
processing is virtually non existent.  Hand processing (not even up to spinning 
yet) 
would be impractical and  expensive. Add a cottage handspinner and no one 
could afford the thread.   I am in the process of spinning small batches for 
early bobbin lace thesis.  Spinning is tedious, messy, dirty. Then threads 
need to be plied and then  boiled to clean and soften. I thrash to break down 
the fibers to make them  smoother, lustrous and not as stiff. Good news is 
that a little goes a long  way. 

I am planning on blogging the process as I work on my thesis.  Technically, 
the thesis includes replicating metal wrapped threads but linen  thread is 
also being required. Spinning is the easy part, making lace samples  in 
triplicate will be my challenge as a novice. 

Sue M.  

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[lace] IOLI Bulletin and Dues for Next Year

[Jeriames]

What is the last IOLI Bulletin members have received?
 
Has anyone received an e-mail notice of IOLI dues due before year  end?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

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[lace] Look at Previous Ornament Exchanges

[Jeriames]

Since there seems to be no replies to my request that someone post Jenny's  
web site address for new participants of the 2016 ornament exchange, I have 
 gone backwards in my schedule of many things being done for the future of 
lace  and found it for all: 
 
http://www.brandis.com.au/ 
 
Arachne Exchanges is at the top of the menu on the Left of the  screen.
 
Many thanks to Jenny for all the work she has done to document this  
Arachne activity that so many (even our silent members) have enjoyed.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Winterthur Needlework Conference: Embroidery - the Language of Art

[Jeriames]

Last week at Winterthur, Linda Eaton announced that the entire textile  
collection is being photographed and will be available for viewing via  
computer in the near future.  So, Devon, they have anticipated your  wishes.  
They 
have always had wonderful staff photographers, skilled  in bringing out the 
best in any object photographed.  Evidence of  this are the very lovely 
photos in publications Winterthur  produces.
 
You may like to know, Devon, that Amelia Peck, a Metropolitan Museum of Art 
 Curator, was one of the presenters in the morning auditorium sessions, 
speaking  about Candace Wheeler (1827-1923) who was the  first woman to lead an 
 American decorating firm, having started earlier in her career as a  
partner in a Tiffany business venture.  This talk was "Making Art  Embroidery 
Work for Women".
 
Devon - Tricia Wilson Nguyen, Owner of Thistle Threads (mentioned  several 
times in old Arachne correspondence) spoke about "Professional vs.  Amateur: 
The Economics of Embroidery".  This was fascinating.  Nguyen  conceived of, 
and led the making of a reproduction 17th Century embroidered  jacket at 
Plimoth Plantation a few years ago.  Devon made some of the  gold lace on the 
jacket, styled after the famous surviving Layton jacket in the  Victoria and 
Albert Museum, London.  The V and A also owns a portrait of  Layton wearing 
the jacket.  What I realized the first time I viewed these 2  items in 
London was that the gold lace on the jacket and in the portrait  were from 
different patterns.  Probably the original became worn and was  replaced on the 
jacket, with the old gold lace being melted down for  re-use.  When you want 
to buy silk and gold threads, Thistle Threads  in the state of Massachusetts 
is one place to shop. 
 
Arlene - Yes, I took the second of two sessions of "Luxury Lives  in the 
Details" workshop you described.  Agree that the presenter, a  cataloguer of 
Museum Collections was inexperienced and hesitant -  quite unusual for 
Winterthur, which has always had very impressive experts on  all the American 
Decorative Arts.  I kept wishing she could come  to Maine for some one-on-one 
time with me.   The library of  4,000+ books I have collected would not exist, 
had I not spent a very  educational week at Winterthur half a lifetime ago. 
 It was a  jointly-sponsored program Winterthur/EGA (offered to 
Embroiderers'  Guild of America members).  Only about a dozen people 
participated, and 
it  has never been repeated.  It greatly advanced my personal interests:  
Embroidery, Lace, Textiles used in period rooms, Conservation &  Restoration, 
Collecting books and collecting textiles.  Everyone should be  so lucky.  
Further, I would like to mention that quite a few paid members  of the staff 
in high positions are women, with Linda Eaton holding one of  the most 
prestigious.  Just sayinghow nice it is.
 
Arlene - I practice what I preach.  That means I wear lace.  It  is a great 
way to start a conversation.
 
Someone: please write a response to this, so that people who do  not 
receive AOL mail will know to look at the Arachne Archives for  it.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 10/17/2016 2:43:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
devonth...@gmail.com writes:

Winterthur has some very nice pieces of lace in its collection  because one 
of
the members of the Dupont family was a member of the Needle  and Bobbin Club
and her collection has ended up at Winterthur. Pieces from  this collection
were shown when the members of the IOLI visited Winterthur  during the
Harrisburg IOLI convention. However, I do not think they  are all
photographedcollectors like the Duponts were very  interesting
people, the next step might be photographing and displaying the  lace.
I think the piece that Arlene directed us to is not the victim of  mending. 
The
diamond like braid structure is characteristic of a kind of  lace called
Valenciennes de GandThere is a
handkerchief made this  way at the Metropolitan  Museum
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/221695
Devon
--
From:  Arlene Cohen
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2016 1:30 PM
Subject: [lace]  Ithaca Lace and Winterthur Needlework Symposium

(I have deleted the Ithaca content that was part of this memo.   Jeri)


Dear  all,
I journeyed down to
Winterthur in Delaware for a fabulous  needlework symposium.  A few pieces 
of
related lace content to report  here. First of all, I got to meet Jeri Ames
in person, after reading so  many of her helpful words here on Arachne for 
so
long.  I very much  admired the lace she was wearing around her neck and
dangling from her  ears!  I had on my needlework necklace, showcasing the
beauvais  stitch, from France. Secondly, one of my afternoon workshops was
more or  less a "show and tell" session of items from the Winterthur
collections of  needlework, 

Re: [lace] Linen thread as it was before World War I

[Jeriames]

Original October 16 question:
 
Hello All!  May I ask what brand linen thread you are using &  why?  I'm a 
bit steamed to find big hunks of lint stuck in 90/2 linen  thread & unsure 
of whether to pick it out & risk breaking the thread or  cutting it out & 
adding a new bobbin.  While I realize that linen was  nicer in the "good old 
days", I'm concerned that there seems to be so little  quality control for 
thread that is now $xx a spool!  Is one brand doing a  better job of it than 
another or is this just the new normal?   Comments?  Suggestions?  Many 
thanks.  Sincerely, Susan Hottle  USA  

--
 
To add to explanations about visually disturbing slubs in linen threads  
produced today for making lace.  AND to add to your understanding  of the 
history of women in the lace "industry":
 
There are books that will supply interesting background information  about 
the massive destruction during World War I of the areas where flax  was 
cultivated in Belgium.  Ugly oil from German tanks contaminated the  lands 
where 
flax was grown.  Water from the River Lys, used for  retting, was 
contaminated by war ships.  This water containing unique  chemicals/minerals 
had 
produced the whitest linen thread then  available - anywhere.  One strain of 
most importance for the making of  the finest threads (claimed to be finer than 
a human hair) was completely  lost.  No seeds survived the war.  The 
cultivation of this  strain had been completely manual, with personal attention 
 
given to each plant.  No machines in the growing fields.  It grew  tall (I 
think I remember it was waist high), meaning less joins (if any) by  spinners. 
 
After WWI, all citizens were needed to rebuild the nation, and produce  
quickly-made products for export to pay war debts.  Fashions required much  
less (or no) lace, which could be supplied by elderly lacemakers.   Younger 
lacemakers turned to other available work to support  themselves.  
 
Hopefully, everyone will have read "Bobbins of Belgium" by Charlotte  
Kellogg?  It was scanned from my copy, and is on the Arizona site.   She wrote 
a 
second book, "Women of Belgium" which was about how they organized  to keep 
the domestic population fed and clothed.  They used aid that came  from the 
Commission for Relief in Belgium, set up in England by a future  U.S. 
President - Herbert Hoover.  The negotiations with the Germans  occupying 
Belgium, 
and the British which had many ships deployed as a blockade,  even included 
thread needed to make lace.  The Germans insisted  the thread (produced in 
another country) be weighed when it was  delivered to Belgium, and the 
finished lace was weighed when it was sent out  to defray some of the costs of 
the aid.  We call this "War  Lace".
 
Here is an address where you can read both books:
 
_http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/book/lookupname?key=Kellogg%2C%
20Charlotte_ 
(http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/book/lookupname?key=Kellogg,%20Charlotte)
  
 
There are also books about growing flax, and sometimes processing it.   The 
best (to me) is by Bert Dewilde of Kortrijk/Courtrai (Belgians are  
bi-lingual: Flemish/French).  Title:  "Flax in Flanders Throughout the  
Centuries: 
History..Technical Evolution..Folklore"  Published in English by  Lannoo, 
ISBN 90-209-1498-7, 1987, purchased as an out-of-print used  book in 2013 
through a local book store which ordered it from Belgium, 216  pages.  Here, 
you 
learn everything about Belgian flax.   Dewilde is behind the founding of 
the Flax Museum in his town, and  participants of the 1998 OIDFA Gent Lace 
Tour went to this fabulous place.   In a separate building, an enchanting large 
lace collection was presented,  which I believe was reviewed at the time in 
OIDFA publications.  Also in  this town is the thread business of Bart and 
Francis.  So - if you  appreciate these kinds of things (?), here are 
several resources for you to  research further.
 
Sorry to those who do not appreciate history.  It seems a shame  not to 
share.  WE STAND ON THE SHOULDERS of remarkable, very  hard-working women, 
whose history has been undocumented.  They saved  children from starvation 
during and after terrible wars all over the world  - going back to the 
beginning 
of human habitation of this  world.  
 
In this case, even before WWI, Belgium imported much of the food needed to  
sustain its population (it is a land-poor nation), so you can imagine the  
magnitude of the problems they faced.  You may be descended from some  of 
them.  A new book about the War Laces and what has happened since the  end of 
WWI (1918) is being written in Belgium by a highly-regarded lace  scholar, 
and will be published in 2018 in honor of our favorite subject:  LACE.  It 
will be available to those who travel to Bruges to attend  the lace 
festivities being planned by our Belgian "sisters".
 
Incidentally, the Australian crochet expert, Barbara Ballantyne, wrote  
about 

Re: [lace] Christmas card exchange

[Jeriames]

Another solution is to go to look at past submissions which have been  kept 
for members of Arachne.  The leaders of the exchanges have urged  
participants to identify the original sources (designers), and they have (in  
recent 
years) also asked for prickings or instructions to put on the site  to 
accompany each item. 
 
I keep preaching to go to our archives.  In this case, you can narrow  the 
search by adding the name of Jenny Brandis to Christmas Card Exchange  and 
narrow the search from 400+ entries to 40+ entries.  (Jenny -  Australian - 
has worked very hard to bring all the submissions to us in  wonderful color, 
Janet - U.K. and Sallie U.S. have been organizing the exchanges  in recent 
years.  This is a happy example of the international nature of  Arachne.) 
 
Go to:  
_Http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html)  

 
Search:  Christmas Card Exchange, Jenny Brandis
 
Unfortunately, our server has never been re-programmed to put the  
correspondence in date order, but you will find Jenny's memos announcing the 
new  
entries (by year) to the site she maintains.
 
Sorry, but there are many things to do after attending a  2-day Needlework 
Conference in Delaware sponsored by a major U.S.  museum.  **A member of 
Arachne found me in the crowded book  shop (where else?)!**  Drove, total, over 
500 miles yesterday, and the  same 3 days earlier on the crowded highways 
that run from Maine to Florida  along the Eastern seaboard.  
 
It's up to you to do the searching... or maybe our busy Jenny will  chime 
in.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Research Center

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[lace] Volunteering - Lace Guild UK index to Lace magazine

[Jeriames]

Thank you, Malvary!
 
Your reply to Susan was just what I needed to read this  morning.  It 
illustrates dedication that is often missing on Arachne  (though never from 
you), 
and which is often unappreciated.  Now  that Arachne readers know Malvary 
is one of the proofreaders  of "Lace" and also does the indexing - AND makes 
lace for a Lace  Guild publication:  What can YOU do?   Many of you have  
skills that Guilds need.  
 
The Guilds go begging for help all the time, and that means people are  not 
volunteering.  Without volunteers, Guilds in the recent past have been  
known to "shut down".  They often need officers; I see the same people  filling 
required positions (by government, for incorporated organizations)  - 
moving from one official office to another, for YEARS.  Recently, I  read in 
"Lace" of several positions The Lace Guild needs to fill.
 
Several memos have left my desk about the high quality of  "Lace".  Someone 
told me there are up to 4 (lace-expert)  proofreaders who read each issue 
before it goes to press.
 
Everything published about Lace (books, newsletters, press releases,  etc.) 
should have such attention.  I get goose bumps every time I  read something 
that is incorrect from an "expert" who had no editor, because  it may 
reflect negatively on Lace as a whole.  Perhaps that is  one of the reasons we 
are not taken seriously enough in the  museum world - for funds to be 
allocated to Lace exhibitions?
 
When a key person is sick, like the Editor of a Guild publication,  
leadership should  have a backup plan in place (perhaps a previous person  who 
held 
the position).  This is where someone with expertise needs to be  "on 
call", just like physicians have backups.  It has to be  overwhelming to be 
obligated to a deadline or important meeting, and not be  able to participate 
due 
to personal incapacity.
 
So many are not actively sharing on Arachne.  This is a  great place to get 
experience by writing (for example) that can then be  used to benefit Lace 
Guilds.  I'm begging again:  Everyone has a story  about Lace.  Every one of 
us has received a lot of volunteer  (free) help in connection with our Lace 
passion.  
 
Pleaselet us hear from you.  You are the future of Lace Guilds,  and 
this is a good place to practice sharing.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

 
In a message dated 10/4/2016 11:58:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
malva...@sympatico.ca writes:

I must  confess that it is me who currently does the index.  I've been 
doing  
it for 2-3 years now...I also proof-read (each) issue before  printing.

Haven't finished indexing 163 yet because I'm working on a  piece of lace 
for 
the 2018 Lace Guild Calendar...I'm also managing the  Calendar project.

I'm just pointing this out that although I live in  Canada and can't 
volunteer to help at shows etc., there are things that I  can do.  Perhaps 
if 
you live far from the headquarters of your  national lace group you could 
find something to help with,  too.

Malvary in Ottawa 

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[lace] Fuseaux Normands book. Available in Australia?

[Jeriames]

Dear Brian,
 
This is a book I was trying to find some years ago.  I was  told a book 
seller in Australia stocked it.  However 
my search did not succeed.  You are in Australia, and may have more  luck.
 
I've changed the Subject line, in hopes it will trigger someone's  memory, 
and be sorted into our Arachne archives in a file that can be  searched.
 
In lace friendship, Jeri in Maine USA
--
 
In a message dated 9/28/2016 3:07:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
brid...@bigpond.com writes:

Does  anyone happen to have a copy of the book, "Fuseaux Normands"

I have no  more information than that. no author, no publisher.  nothing.
sorry.

I do have an excellent photograph of bobbins from  the book and I was
wondering if the book has more  pictures?

Brian

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[lace] Polish lace - Correction: Kalocsa is Hungarian, not Polish

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan,

Kalocsa is a place in Hungary where they have traditionally made brightly
colored floral embroidery.  What is of interest to us is that the
foundation under that embroidery is lacy, and white.  The lacy  parts were
originally
stitched by hand, but when the Singer treadle  machines came into use, they
were quickly adopted to speed the work.  There  is a wonderful
English-language book that I reviewed in 2015 "Treasures of  Kalocsa" by Kati
Fejér.

I usually print my reviews and put in the books, and also found a personal
letter from you, Susan, in response to that review.  It was dated
September 14, 2015, and also went to Arachne.  I'll not say more here,
because
anyone interested can search for it by the book title, or if you want to  read
over 20 entries, search by just Kalocsa:

http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center


In a message dated 9/24/2016 10:03:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Thank  you Blanche!  I've printed out your info for future use.  It's
totally
amazing that lace was made in so many areas as a social relief  program.
Thanks also for the references on Polish traditional dress ... I  found
beautiful whitework on blouses & aprons but no bobbin lace.  I  did find some
interesting pieces that appear to be needle lace in  the
Silesia area.  The lace covered the forehead & appeared to be  tucked under
the
edges of a colorful babushka (is there a different term in  Polish?) because
the hair was completely covered.  Plus loads of  brightly colored embroidery
that I recognize from EGA--the Kalocsa (sp??)  type.

In the meantime, another Arachnean has forwarded a clear photo of  lace from
Bobowa so I will attempt to recreate the pattern.  Susan  Hottle USA


On Sep 24, 2016, at  3:58 AM, B Krbechek  wrote:

The Lace  School Movement occurred in the late XIX th century into the XXth
It was  early in Ireland, an attempt to help women financially during the
difficult  times of the potato famine, and spread world wide.

Bobowa  was one of the villages involved in the Lace School Movement
out of  Vienna.

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Re: [lace] Polish lace

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan,
 
One thing you might "search" is for Polish-American centers and  societies. 
 In some cases, they may actually have a bricks and mortar  building that 
includes exhibition space and holdings of collections of  interesting 
needlework that are exhibited from time-to-time.  Other eastern  Europeans have 
done this successfully.  Such a facility may even have a  gift/book shop.  But, 
I have found they usually sell cook  books! 
 
Have you looked at old OIDFA bulletins to see if any articles have been  
submitted by Polish members?  
 
And, of course, you might go to Tamara Duvall of Virginia for  input.  She 
is listed in the IOLI Handbook.
 
In lace friendship, Jeri

 
 
In a message dated 9/23/2016 4:31:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Hello  All!  Today I am searching for some information on Polish bobbin 
lace ...  I know that Polish lace exists because I followed the links to the 
YouTube  videos that were posted on Ning.  A G**gle search for "koronka" 
brought  up finished lace for sale but no other info.  At this point, I have  
several parallel searches for lace from various countries as we attempt to  
provide interesting & relevant exhibits for our host libraries ... I've  
checked the usual suspects worldcat, antique pattern library, digital  
archives, 
Univ. of Chicago etc. for Polish, Slavic or Eastern European lace.  
Unfortunately, I have not yet found a book or pattern to make a sample.  !
We have several Catholic parishes in Erie with predominantly  Polish 
members so I have reached out to them ... they often sponsor Polish  heritage 
events ... If anyone can point me in a direction, I would be most  grateful.  
Although this subject appears in Arachne archives, there isn't  much detail so 
I'm temporarily stumped.  Suggestions?  Sincerely,  Susan Hottle USA  

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[lace] Completed Wisteria Lace by Agnes

[Jeriames]

Dear Agnes,
 
Your lace is beautiful.
 
Thank you for mentioning Christine Springett, whom I've admired for nearly  
40 years.  I fall back on her books and videos when someone is interested  
in learning to make lace.  The combination of her assistance in getting  
started on the videos, and the books telling in words what to do  and showing 
photos of completed lace, working diagrams and prickings  have been 
invaluable for this purpose.
 
In lace friendship, Jeri
---
 
In a message dated 9/20/2016 2:52:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ag...@weatherwax.karoo.co.uk writes:

Hi all.  
Thanks for all the nice comments on fiknishing the Wisteris edging.
In  reply to several people: the pattern is by Christine Springett.
She has a  website with the pattern/pricking on it if anyone is interested.
Although  it took me 2+ years, mainly because I do not have a lot of time to
make  lace, though I hope to get more time now I am not working as  much
anymore.
Agnes Boddington - Elloughton  UK

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[lace] Wemyss School of Needlework, Scotland - Goldwork possibilities

[Jeriames]

RSN = Royal School of Needlework, located at Hampton Court Palace,  England.
 
There is an article in the August/September 2016 magazine  "Stitch", 
published in England by The Embroiderers' Guild for sale to the public  
(available 
at some local U.S.-located Barnes & Noble book stores)  -- about a school 
supported by the Wemyss Clan/family, near Fife  Scotland, that has been in 
operation since 1877.  The founding of this  small school that prepared up to 
36 local girls per 6-month session for a  vocation, was inspired by the 
Royal School of Needlework's founding in  1872.  
 
The RSN has always taught needle lace as a part of their curriculum, so I  
was interested to see what this very small long-lasting school offers.  It  
now is mainly individual crewel embroidery workshops, with some  Goldwork 
and other specialty subjects.  Wemyss Castle, and this  separate free-standing 
school on the Main Street of  Coaltown-of-Wemyss (open 3 days per week), 
are possible destinations for  anyone traveling in Scotland.  The website says 
they  welcome groups - by reservation, as well as individuals. 
http://www.wemyssneedlework.co.uk/
 
Why am I writing to lacemakers about Goldwork embroidery?   Because of the 
variety of metal threads for special effects in both  lace and embroidery.  
 
Since lace and embroidery have traveled together on magnificent  textiles 
through the centuries, they benefit from being thought about  together.  The 
relationship between Goldwork embroidery and gold lace,  is reflected in 
some of the thousands of needlework books in my  private library.  
 
Embroiderers' Guilds around the world have long offered classes  using 
metal and metallic threads.  Their teachers are a good resource  for locating 
gold threads in various nations.  Anyone interested in making  gold lace might 
like to try a small kit intended for Goldwork embroiderers,  since the 
materials in quantity are expensive.  
 
An introductory kit prepared by a RSN teacher/book author, Helen  McCook, 
is available from Wemyss.  It would provide exposure to  using the threads 
and methods that embroiderers use, especially if you would  like to learn to 
combine the two skills in an item like the Layton  Jacket at the Victoria and 
Albert Museum.  This jacket was  reproduced at Plimoth Plantation in 
Massachusetts, and has been displayed  in the U.S. in recent years.  Mostly 
crewel 
embroidery on linen, you  will see couched gold thread and gold spangles on 
the surface of the  fabric.  Our member, Devon, made some of the gold 
bobbin lace on this  jacket.  http://www.plimoth.org/jacket  
 
Thus, my suggestion to those of you who favor making metal laces.   You'll 
find ample opportunities to explore gold embroidery in many nations, and  
you can become an ambassador for gold laces to members of any Goldwork  
stitching classes you take.  Please bring favorite photos of some  of the 
finest 
gold wire laces to such a class.  You may recruit new  lacemakers, if you 
share one of the very best:  http://lauransundin.com/
 
Christmas Shopping for a friend who "has everything"?  Check  out the shop 
at:
http://www.royal-needlework.org.uk/
 
Has this information been interesting to you?  If you do not write a  
response, we do not know!  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lace eye candy, salt water, wet cleaning unique laces, conservation

[Jeriames]

Thank you for the salt-infused lace explanation, Ilske.

In brief, this is done only to new laces by an artist whose first
consideration is to make something that is not normal.  Is the  artist using
materials other than linen, cotton, silk and wool?  How  will this lace be
cleaned
in the future, or is it only for display in  the short term?

For those of you committed to the use of traditional threads   If you
want it to be possible for your heirs to see and hold what  you made - please
recognize the difference.  Consider the problems museum  conservators and
restorers of laces face every day when they try to prevent  deterioration and
prepare laces for exhibition.  Anything like salt  crystals on lace would
need to be stored in a completely different  storage area/container than
customary lace storage in a museum.   This lace must not be exposed to
liquids!
This is not a totally  unique problem.  Some of you know that many 20th C.
sequins were made of  gelatin.  They, also, melt away in liquids.  This
means:   if you buy vintage sequins, test them in water before attaching to
lace.

Does this French lace maker sell items to be worn?  If  so, wearers would
have to avoid damp and rain - just as was  done when heavily-starched
standing lace collars were worn in the  Renaissance period.  Does she give
wearing
and care instructions with  each piece she makes??

Readers: please understand this is an *intellectual discussion*, and  not
me picking on Ilske.  Ilske and I are friends who look for each other  at
each OIDFA Congress.  We met through Arachne in 2003.   This Summer Ilske and
I
spent quite a bit of time with each other in Slovenia.

She gave me a small bobbin lace flower she made with colored  metallic
threads, all of which appear to be  synthetics.  Very precious to me.  Ilske
knows not to use  glue.  There is a small gem *sewn* to the center, and the
pin
on  back is sewn in place.  If if it ever needed wet cleaning, I  would
wash it in the traditional manner I have taught all of you - a  shallow pan of
distilled water.  If it needed a "boost" I would use ORVUS,  because it is
the gentlest soap in my studio.  The flower  is shaped in 2 layers.  To dry,
I would gently shake  the flower, dry the metal pin as much as possible with
a soft cloth,  then shape the lace petals and lay the flower on the clean
counter in  my kitchen to dry.  It is very lacy, so it would not take long.

Some of us have very old laces in our private collections, and some  have
very new laces made by friends.
Many of you participate in the bookmark or holiday ornament lace exchanges
sponsored by Arachne.  If you have small items like the bookmarks,  they
may get soiled while in use.  You treasure the friendships you  have made
during these swaps, and I hope you will be able to wet clean them  using the
advice given on Arachne.

If you have young people in your home, may I suggest  you invite them help
you wet clean lace?  In the current period  of history, they usually only
understand using washing machines and  dryers to clean textiles.  You probably
have taught them how to cook  enough to prevent starvation. This is just an
extension of your good  intentions for the lace you own and something that
the young  people will remember years from now.  If they go on to use  or
wear laces you made, they will be more careful about exposing inherited  laces
to dangerous conditions.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-


In a message dated 9/17/2016 7:41:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ilske.l.thom...@t-online.de writes:

M. Th.  Bonniol doesn’t "bath“ old lace in salt water. She creates laces,
with "big  holes“ and let it lay in the salt water on the place she lives a
part of the  Mediterranean Sea. The salt forms crystals in the gaps of the
lace.  Astonishingly those crystals stay on the lace.  These are really
remarkable works.
Those being able to read German could find an article I  wrote about her
and her salt-lace about two years ago.  Ilske in  Hamburg

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Re: [lace] Lace eye candy

[Jeriames]

Why should any lace be bathed in salt water?  Have  professional
conservators and restorers approved this "treatment"?

This is a simple reminder that I "preach" to be very careful about
exposing your precious laces to chemicals and minerals in water drawn  from
private
wells and public water supplies.  Please remember the  free conservation
and restoration advice given to you on Arachne for  20-plus years, which came
from training seminars at some of America's  foremost museums.  Very few
special textile sites have someone who has  learned from the best textile
experts, and have a stack of books on the subject  available for
consultation.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center



In a message dated 9/16/2016 2:12:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
susan.voss...@gmail.com writes:

Hi  Susan,

The lace is made normally then immersed in sea water at the  local salt
works.  It was Marie-Thérèse Bonniol who first thought up  the technique -
Denise, of the site you mention, learnt it from her - and  you can see the
various stages here: http://artetdentelle.free.fr and go to  Dentelles
cristallisées dans le sel.  The rest of her work is worth  looking at too -
I love her creations!

Sue from  Montélimar

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[lace] Univ. of Arizona Lace Digital Archives - Chinese Laces

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan,
 
Yes, there is way too much to know about lace (and textiles, in  general).  
Since I've seen no Arachne responses to your inquiry about  "Chinese 
laces", please tell us more about what you wish to understand: the  
author/document/page(s) where you found the referenced subject.  I'll take  a 
look, and 
perhaps can find more recent books that can be of help to you  - in my private 
library of books still covered by copyrights.  Here is  a repeat of the 
direct access address for laces:
 
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  
-
In a message dated 9/12/2016 2:50:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:



 

There are references to "Chinese laces" that I do not understand but  
perhaps someone will enlighten or I will find the answer in subsequent issues.  
I'd like to think that Arachne will remain relevant because we support  it 
with questions & comments.  There is way too much to know & no  single lace 
maker is likely to be fluent in all forms of lace, just as a  linguist might 
know five languages rather than thirty.  That makes  Arachne a logical 
information hub for what we do.  It's a pearl of great  value.  Sincerely, 
Susan 
Hottle USA 

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Re: [lace] Discovering buried treasure in the Digital Archives (U. of Arizona)

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan, Maybe this needs clarification?
 
Every time I refer to the University of Arizona files on Arachne (several  
times each year), **I give the address Sue gave in her  posting.**  It was 
my antique books that were the first to be scanned  by Tess for the use of 
our Arachne international community of  lacemakers - that means everyone 
reading this.  Once Lace entries  were  launched, many Arachne members 
contributed to it, including  some generous current authors.  Lacemakers of 
Maine 
learned about  this resource decades ago from a Maine weaver - weaving being 
included  in the address: 
 
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html 
 
Let us not jump to conclusions from information given on other  sites.  We 
have our own history and are focused on lace.  Arachne  was the first site 
of its kind that lacemakers could use, and members have  had a commitment to 
sharing - without cost (though lacemakers in some  countries may be paying 
to download) and without advertising.  How  much longer Arachne can be 
relevant, given many changes to the internet, is a  serious question.  But, for 
now, this is where you get whatever has been  made available during the past 
20 years.
 
At some point in our history, the Arachne files were changed and early  
postings have been lost.  But, whenever you have questions you have the  option 
of searching by subject at:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 9/10/2016 3:50:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Thank  you Sue for posting the link--it is not one that I have ever used!  
The  link that I normally use goes to ALL the documents, hence it includes  
embroidery & other forms of needlework.  It's a mammoth undertaking  to 
search for items using the entire list.  Sue's link filters the list  to "lace" 
entries only so I took the tour.  There are some nuggets in the  back issues 
of International Old Lacers, including a peacock pattern & an  edging with 
an interesting ground plus articles on lace made in Ceylon.   It's another 
place to look for something old that's new again.   Sincerely, Susan Hottle 
USA  

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[lace] England: North Cheshire Lace Makers Lace Day, Sept. 10, 2016

[Jeriames]

A notice has come to me of a meeting by the North Cheshire Lace Makers Lace 
 Day that I'd like to attend. 
 
 
It says the speaker is Jan Gardiner, and the topic is "A lacemaker's lot is 
 not a happy one".  I'm guessing this would be about current lacemakers,  
because this is in the present tense. 
 
Short of paying $thousands to fly to England, the only way to learn what  
she has to say is to request a report from someone present at her talk.   
Please - even if you are a lurker and do not want to write directly to Arachne 
-  write to me.

 
http://www.nc-lacemakers.co.uk/
 
Some of you may know of a lacemaker whose life needs to be  remembered.  A 
very good example is on the website of the North Cheshire  Lace Makers, 
which invites you to look at the page celebrating the life of Sue  Willoughby.  
(Something like this could be adapted for local news media -  and can 
inspire others.)  
 
I have put a paper copy in a small binder in my library, so it will be a  
kept tribute on this side of the Atlantic.
 
This would be such a good project to emulate - for every lace person who  
has been an influence on your lace lives.  Think about it.  And  be one who 
shares.  Thus ends my sermon-of-the-day.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Teneriffe Lace lesson offered by Embroiderers' Guild of America

[Jeriames]

I developed a serious lace interest about 40 years ago, via  taking needle 
lace courses taught by EGA.  Since our lace guilds primarily  focus on 
bobbin lace at this time in history, this is something for people who  prefer 
needles as their tool-of-choice to know.
 
If you are a member of EGA, or know someone who is a member, this Teneriffe 
 Lace lesson is a correspondence course for one (you don't have to be part  
of a group) costing $38.
 
This offering is in the September 2016 bulletin from EGA on page 3 of  the 
centerfold as a "Lightening Round", with an order form in the  centerfold on 
page 8.  Includes access to videos by Jonalene Gutwein.   You will be given 
the username and password for the videos when you  enroll.
 
Also in this issue is an article "Should Your Chapter Go Online? - Part  
2".  This may be of interest to officers of lace guilds, and you may want  to 
borrow a back issue to read Part 1.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

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[lace] OIDFA - 2018 Congress Cancellation (Memo 2)

[Jeriames]

I was taught at an early age to communicate truthfully, though I did know  
when adults were not being truthful to me.  Also, that (without a  college 
degree or even having taken any college courses) I was  recruited by The New 
York Times to work on school newspapers in the early  1960s.  I received 
excellent counseling then from a wise boss - to read at  least 3 different 
newspapers with different agendas each day for a more  realistic and 
comprehensive overall view of the news (those were the  days of the 
Kennedy/Johnson 
presidential administrations and the war in  Vietnam), and to try to not slant 
the *news* - just state the  verifiable facts.
 
Ordinarily, I would not ask this, but feel I should request that  someone 
who received my memo yesterday comment on it (attaching the content of  that 
memo) so that the people who do not receive mail from AOL (my carrier  for 
e-mail) will know what was reported.
 
Hopefully, you all share with lacemakers you know who  do not subscribe to 
Arachne.   Lacemakers are usually wise people with  understanding of how 
something can go terribly wrong with lace you are  making, or with 
relationships between people.  You will understand  the international lace 
community 
(and that includes Arachne members)  needs to stop scuffles between volunteers 
working on behalf of  various lace organizations.  Now.
 
In lace friendship to you all, 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center   

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Re: [lace] OIDFA - 2018 Congress Cancellation

[Jeriames]

At the 2016 OIDFA Congress's gala dinner in Slovenia, I sat at  the Belgian
table, surrounded by 9 very capable experts with extensive  experience when
it comes to Belgian laws and organization of large events.   Conversation
was in English.  Please do not panic if you were planning  to go to Bruges in
2018.  I think it will be very nice and some of you will  definitely want
to attend.

Every dispute has at least 2 sides, and the Belgians have been politely
silent about theirs.

As most of you know, I belong to the large lace guilds of our world, and
try to know what is happening.  I have deliberately avoided entering  into
any large guild's internal politics, though I have some  pretty interesting
opinions of how they "operate", select officers,  communicate, etc.

My dearest friend, Jean Leader, has referred you to the  "official" OIDFA
document about cancellation of the 2018 OIDFA  Congress.  However, I also
have personally received extensive  written information directly from the
Belgians about what has been  happening for the last 4 years - information
that
is not for public  airing!

OIDFA Congresses usually take about 6 years to plan and  execute. The
Belgians have been working on what was to be the 2018 OIDFA  Congress for
about 4
years.  That has been cancelled, as I understand it  from written
documents, because current Belgian laws do not agree with  the official
paperwork of
OIDFA (incorporated as a  non-profit under French laws).  The Belgian lace
group will  continue their planning for a lace event under their own
sponsorship,  including their own financing.

There will be a large lace event very much like the OIDFA  Congresses in
Bruges in 2018.  More detailed information will be coming  from them soon.  I
am much encouraged by what they have told me.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-


In a message dated 8/27/2016 5:34:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jean.lea...@gmail.com writes:

This  week I’ve been asked by a couple of people what will happen now that
the 2018  OIDFA Congress in Bruges has been cancelled. If you are also
wondering about  this you will find a statement from the OIDFA Executive
Council
on the OIDFA  website - go to https://www.oidfa.com/cong.html and click on
the link about  half way down the page.
You’ll also find photos from this year’s Congress  in Ljubljana, Slovenia
further down the page. I was there and thoroughly  enjoyed both the Congress
weekend and the tour  afterwards.

---
Email  addresses:

j...@jeanleader.net
jean.lea...@gmail.com

N.B.  demon address no longer  active

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Re: [lace] Olympic tribute to lace - Brazil

[Jeriames]

Dear Elizabeth in Brazil,

1.  Your letter did not go to Arachne as I see it on my copy of your
letter.  As I saw your memo on my computer screen (copy below this note),  it
only came to me.

My usual reply address choices with AOL are "Reply" which only goes to  the
sender (you) or "Reply All" which sends to you personally plus to AOL  in
the "Send To".  In your letter (below this reply) from you  to me, it just
gave your mail address in "Send to", so I typed the  Arachne address in the
"Copy To" box for this reply.   I added Brazil  to the Subject line, so the
Arachne archives will file it under your country's  name.

What this means for everyone is that addressing to the Arachne address will
 in most cases (my AOL does not deliver to all) go to the entire
membership.  I like to be sure a copy goes to the originator of
correspondence, so
make sure she is addressed.  According to the  original Arachne, that means
the receiver (if it is you that wrote) will  get 2 copies of the reply:  one
direct to you, and one from Arachne as a  result of your membership.  I do
not know how your carrier, UOL, handles  addressing, but that may impact your
way of addressing mail.

2.  Way behind the scenes, I was indirectly behind the founding  of a
national lace organization in Europe.  Often, we do not know  what plants the
seed of the idea to organize lacemakers into a force that is  bigger than one
person can be.

If you wish to do so, I will be happy to invite a few national  guild
experts in the international lace community to join together in  a private
advisory group to assist you in organizing a national lace guild in  Brazil,
because I hope such an effort on your part will eventually spread  throughout
the
nations of South America.  However, you must realize it  will take so much
of your time that you will not be able to make much  lace!

With this in mind, we should MOVE the  SUBJECT to PRIVATE correspondence.
It will be more efficient  than on Arachne, and we can be sure that the few
helping you are  receiving the letters supporting you.

In lace friendship,

Jeri Ames in Maine USA, Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

--


In a message dated 8/29/2016 7:41:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
e...@uol.com.br writes:


Hello Jeri Ames and  Arachnes
1.  I have doubts about  Arachne  procediments: when we use “Reply via
email to ...”  message go only  to receiver ?
2.  I think is a constructive idea.  Brazil have no official lace
organization but I will search who worked on  Olympic presentation to send a
thanks.
I will give a notice  after.
Elizabeth Correa
_www.rendatenerife.org.br_ (http://www.rendatenerife.org.br/)
_www.rendasol.org.br_ (http://www.rendasol.org.br)

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Re: [lace] Olympic tribute to lace

[Jeriames]

This is a friendly reminder, not the police - please send your  messages to 
_lace@arachne.com_ (mailto:lace@arachne.com) 
 
Messages do not need to be addressed to the digest or  other related 
addresses that we have.  When you address to more  than one address, it fills 
up 
our incoming mail boxes with duplicates.
 
Elizabeth Correa:  If there is an official Brazilian lace organization  
that worked with choreographers on this Olympic presentation, please send  them 
a message of appreciation and thanks from lacemakers around the  world.
 
Lace bulletin writers from IOLI, The Lace Guild, OIDFA, etc. - please  give 
us articles about this subject!  This is something that might be of  
interest to a younger audience, and we need to get them interested in lace  in 
any 
way we can!  
 
Dance related to lace was also performed at the OIDFA Congress in  
Slovenia.  There was a lovely ballet in which the dancers' arms and legs  were 
used 
to suggest the movements of crossing and twisting, and also a dance by  a 
group of 7 young girls (one holding the pillow) in which 6 wove the  3-pair 
tape lace of Slovenia.  I wrote about this to Arachne in a long  memo, but it 
seems no one received it.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Glue/Adhesives & Lace

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan, et al,
 
Actually, I have nothing against modern handmade lace being cut, glued, or  
held in place with adhesive tape.  If what you have made is of  substantial 
value to you, you will instinctively not use harmful  approaches.  
All circumstances and environments are not equal.  We usually  have a few 
newer members of Arachne to consider, as well as members living in a  variety 
of climates around the world. 
 
If you plan to use antique laces for crafts, we always advise against  any 
process that cannot be reversed. 
 
Let me remind of antique lace fans that have been mounted on fan sticks  
using glue.  Most of us have seen these items for sale.   Often, glue has 
stained the lace, destroying its esthetic  beauty.   
 
Let us consider antique laces.  Too few are still in the public  domain.  
Cutting vintage or antique handmade lace or applying  glue or adhesive tape 
to cut edges of such lace is rarely  advised.  It would be best if antique 
laces were not used to  clothe teddy bears or dolls.  Machine-made laces can 
be used for  these and for ornaments and party favors.  They are commercially 
 available at reasonable prices.  You can master the skill of over-lapping  
lace repeats, and sewing them together with a hand-held needle and fine  
thread.   It is something I've been doing since age 7.   Practice first on a 
short length of similar but unwanted lace.  You  will realize it is more 
efficient than setting up a sewing  machine.
 
Glues and adhesive tapes are made from a variety of  materials that can 
introduce permanent harmful substances into  lace.  Some of these are edible 
attractions to small living organisms,  which sets you up for an issue you 
never even thought  about.  
 
Arachne conservation/restoration questions are usually referred to  me.  
Or, search by subject or my name, for starters.  When  writing directly to me, 
please use a detailed Subject line, so I won't  think it is spam.
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
P.S.  Why is Arachne so quiet these days?  I suspect Susan sent  this just 
to prime some responses.
-
 
In a message dated 8/6/2016 3:49:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

I hope  Jeri will skip this post because using glue & lace in the same 
sentence  seems heretical!  In my defense, I do believe that our textile-art  
ancestors used various types of adhesives, so that's my excuse & I'm  sticking 
to it.  While working on some little ornaments for embroidery  friends, I 
was faced with making another 19 repeat strip of a Christine  Springett 
French fan edging, or cutting off the needed amount from a  previously worked 
strip.  But what to do to stabilize the cut edge?   I elected to carefully 
apply a small amount of Weldbond white glue (made in  Canada), then let it dry 
& 
cut thru the middle of the dried glue  section   Is there another way 
to fix lace anomalies of this  type without resorting to glue?  If so, I'd 
like to learn about  them.  

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[lace] 2 - OIDFA Congress in Ljubljana, Slovenia, 2016

[Jeriames]

More  Information - OIDFA Congress in Slovenia, from the woman in the
bright pink  hat.

First,  there is Manca Ahlin, the New York City architect.  She delivered
one  of the Congress lectures.  After I discovered her last year while  doing
some lace research, she was introduced to Devon at the Ratti Center of  The
Metropolitan Museum.  She is someone Devon can share with the new  lace
guild of young women in Brooklyn NY.  A real professional, with an
intellectual approach to lace and the willingness to explore using unusual
materials
for different architectural and household applications, art, and  jewelry.
Manca  makes the most exquisite modern lace jewelry, and also designs
large installations using bobbin lace designs and heavy cords or ropes of
hemp
or of synthetic materials.  She was a Slovenian  lace protegé as a child,
and has found ways to continue using her lace knowledge  professionally.
One  piece in Ziri fills an archway with a lace design, and then shoes are
suspended  from the top.  These symbolize the means of employment in that
town.  Two potent quotes from Manca:  Less is more.  Details  are not just
details - they are the design.
Manca  challenged her audience to try making a large-scale lace on a
trellis form  on a balcony, which is what someone in a city might have to do.
She
 described taking her design for a New York restaurant installation  back
to Slovenia so she could enlist her sister to help with the lace weaving,
using rope - on the floor.  This type of lace is not as easy to make  as you
might think!  It requires the thought processes of an engineer, as  well as
an artist.  And, it requires considerable strength and ability to  withstand
pain to knees and back.  (Imagine  tensioning rope!)
Here are two addresses  to start, which will take you to others:

http://lace.mantzalin.com/
http://www.mrxstitch.com/adventures-time-lace-manca-ahlin/
--
If  history is what you like, watch the 30-minute presentation  below.  The
language is Slovenian, but you'll understand most of the story  that takes
you from past to present.  Please do not give up at places where  there is
just talk or the crayon drawings of children.  Take up your  tatting, and it
will soon be back to pictures of interest, some quite modern at  the end.
The twists and turns in Slovenian lace remind me of the steep  roads and
switchbacks that one must travel to get to some of the lace  villages.  Look
closely, and you will see designs are inspired by  the landscape, trees,
flowers, rural buildings, fairy tales, animals,  etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALQOUSg158c
--

This  one illustrates how a government-funded arts council can tell an
ethnic lace story.  Runs 12 minutes:

https://youtu.be/0NdC4cOJgag
---
Paragraph  from an open book in the Malta national exhibit at the OIDFA
Congress:

"Put  lace upon a woman's head and kneel behind her in church.  See if you
can concentrate on the sermon without wondering what she is like."
This  reminded me of America's first lady, the late Jacqueline Kennedy.
She  carried suitable lace in her purse so that she could cover her head when
she  entered churches and cathedrals during her travels.
It  is an idea for you, though times have changed.  In  Paris, prior to the
Caen OIDFA Congress of 2012, my Scottish roommate  and I made our way to
Notre Dame.  A bold sign on the door  reminded men to remove their hats,
something that would not have been needed  just a few years ago.  I was the
only
woman to be seen inside wearing a  hat.  Think about this.  You can trim a
hat with lace, as I did the  bright pink hat worn continuously in Slovenia,
and be found in a  crowd.   That hat was reproduced from a design by Mrs.
Kennedy many  decades ago.  I removed a straw butterfly trim, and replaced
with
some  tatting (a non-fragile lace) and a silk flower.  Easy.  Please  wear
lace.
Jeri  Ames in Maine USA - Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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[lace] 1 - OIDFA Lace Congress in Ljubljana, Slovenia, 2016 (Long)

[Jeriames]

>From  the woman in the bright pink straw hat.
There  has been an absence of reports of experiences at the 17th  World
OIDFA Lace Congress and General Assembly in Ljubljana, Slovenia,  2016.
This is  for those of you who do not belong to lace guilds and consequently
do not  receive their well-illustrated bulletins/magazines.  It will put
some  searchable information in the Arachne archives.  It was published first
in  the New England Lace Group's August 1 newsletter, in color - with
photos.   It is on the private side of their website to protect privacy of
members'  personal information.  You may access my old book reviews on the
public
side at:   _www.nelg.us/_ (http://www.nelg.us/)
The  article below gives web addresses where you will find photos.  It will
 be followed by a second e-mail with some additional Slovenian lace
references.
Background:   OIDFA = l'Organisation Internationale de la Dentelle au
Fuseau et à  l'Aiguille, or International Bobbin and Needle Lace
Organisation.
All  business is conducted in French and English, and during Congresses,
also in the  hosting nation's language.  The dominant language is English.
For
 more information and pictures, go to the OIDFA website and select the
Congress option at the bottom of the Home page: _www.oidfa.com_
(http://www.oidfa.com)
Introduction  to Slovenian lace:  Lace has always reflected the longing for
beauty; not  only historic representations but also the aesthetic images of
today.   We reproduce laces of the past and also acknowledge the passage of
time  with beautiful modern designs.  Slovenia, in the foothills of the
Alps, has become one of the current leading lace-making communities of  the
world.  The nation of 2.1-million is committed to offering  lacemaking to
school children as an elective, and most recently 1,300 children  in Slovenia
were receiving lace instruction.  When you  see children making lace, or
photos of children making lace,  they project an aura of confidence in the
knowledge that they have a skill  that is rare for our time.  The quarterly
bulletins of OIDFA in the  last few years have contained many articles about
these
children, and also about  adults who make lace as a commercial enterprise.
They have also worked  hard to make their lace history available, and have
been publishing Slovenian  lace books with English texts.
I  arrived on Wednesday afternoon via train from Budapest, having traveled
with an  English speaking member of the Budapest Lace Group.  Met at hotel
the  next morning with a German friend for a day trip to  Idrija.  The
landscape as we drew closer was heavily wooded, and it  was apparent it had
taken
a lot of skillful engineering to build the  narrow steep winding roads with
sharp switchbacks.
Idrija's  main square was uncrowded and immaculate.  Our first visit was to
 the castle, up a steep hill, and then up up up inside, with a male guide
telling  too much about mercury mining, so that we did not have sufficient
time  to linger in the lovely lace exhibit at the top.  (It is always  fun to
see how such exhibits are presented - always with some  unusual mounting
solutions.)  On the way down, I counted 109  steps.
We then  went to the Idrija Lace School on the main square.  Founded in
1876, it is  the largest and oldest lace school in the world that has been
working  uninterrupted since its establishment.  It was quite lovely, very
clean,  spacious and well-maintained.  We were free to wander, and  saw some
Summer classes being held for adults.  During  the past school year, 400 girls
and 40 boys from ages 6 through  15 elected to take lace classes here.  The
laces they made,  exhibited with ages noted, were stunning.  There was a shop
full of  small lace treasures, T-shirts, books.  Everywhere, we were given
English-language brochures which showed photos of very happy children -
making lace.  Opt for English at:  _www.cipkarskasola.si/_
(http://www.cipkarskasola.si/)
A  Slovenian lunch was served in a local restaurant, followed  by more time
to shop and visit a couple galleries with lace exhibits.   At the tourist
bureau, they were selling sheets of lace tattoos, with  application
instructions in Slovenian and English.  What a fun fund  raiser that would be
for
lace guilds!   In the town square, a  brass band of teenagers was boarding a
bus to go to Ljubljana for an  evening performance.
Thursday  night (the Summer sun sets late), prior to the 3-day meeting,
large tables were  set up in the city center for the use of 1,000 lacemakers,
It  was very festive, with perfect weather.  The young brass band  from
Idrija marched into the square playing jaunty music.  Being  steeped in the
history of their lacemaking grandmothers and generations  before, my soprano
voice shouted "Bravo" - for their grandmothers - during  the polite applause.
In a  second, smaller, square, a very long Slovenian-style lace pillow was
set  up with many sets of prickings, bobbins and lace that had been
started.  This was from the 

[lace] A Maltese Book Lace Quotation

[Jeriames]

Let's change the subject.
 
 
Paragraph from an open book in the case at Malta's  national exhibit at the 
OIDFA Congress:
 
"Put lace upon a woman's head and kneel behind her in church.   See if you 
can concentrate on the sermon without wondering what she is  like."
 
Make lace.  Wear it.  Gift it to those you love a lot.   Enjoy seeing them 
wear it.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] #3 - Supporting Young Lacemakers, Publicity, Networking

[Jeriames]

My views of what we must do to promote lace making are  unique.  At age 78, 
I'm interested in propelling us forward into the  future and have been 
trying to donate my library to a  museum research facility that will be more 
accessible than my home in  Maine.  It is a difficult task and (for me) 
uncharted  territory.  This commitment will provide a foundation of  knowledge 
for 
just plain lace makers, teachers, lace writers, and lace  artists of the 
future.
 
For 45 years I have endeavored to know what Lace and Embroidery  happenings 
are around me, so I belong to (from south to  north) Chesapeake Region Lace 
Guild, Lost Art Lacers of North Jersey, New  England Lace Group, Lacemakers 
of Maine and Canadian Lacemaker  Gazette.  A friend belongs to Liberty 
Lacers.   This  means Maine lace makers have a good idea of what is happening 
along the North  American East Coast from Washington DC. to Canada.  It would 
be  nice if more people had the curiosity to reach beyond their local  
group, so they can broaden their ideas for programs and relationships with  the 
public.   
 
Multiple dues cost a lot of money at the individual level.  They  are 
funded from my book budget, meaning I buy less books per year.  Daily  writing 
about lace for up to 6 hours steals time away from manual  labor needed by 
home and orchard.  If I can arise at 6 am and  spend 2 hours working on the 
land, I imagine others could use such time to  promote lace.
 
Does your lace guild's newsletter editor share with other lace  guild 
editors?  If she does, that is the practical way to stay  "connected".  I 
recommend that (if possible) newsletters be printed  and put in an attractive 
binder that is available for members to peruse at  meetings.  
 
As a firm policy, everyone must respect the personal contact  information 
sometimes given.  *No phones photographing personal  contact information 
should be allowed.*  The binder should be marked  "PRIVATE, Do not photograph 
contents" and updated at least quarterly.   Someone should be designated to 
handle this; perhaps the person who brings books  from the local group's 
library to meetings.  We must unite to  gain publicity strength.  A quarterly 
national bulletin/magazine  is not enough.
 
Just back from an OIDFA Congress in beautiful Slovenia, I  wish you could 
see the thick packet of very lovely publicity materials  each local lace 
community there has made available for their guests from  around the world.  
When I go to our Lacemakers of Maine meeting this  week, I know they are going 
to be very impressed by what small local  Slovenian governments have done to 
promote lace. 
 
This has given me the idea that everyone needs to  contact local/state arts 
groups that are supported by OUR tax  dollars.  We all need to learn how to 
promote lace, and appoint someone to  do it.  
 
It is when publicly available information spreads across our various  
nations that we will be able to approach the moneyed and government  agencies 
for 
financial support for lace artists.
 
You've had some time to think about my letter on July  22nd on this 
subject.  Have you been inspired to sit down and write an  announcement about a 
lace meeting or other coming event for your local  community?  Have you 
investigated Meetup.com?   
 
We have over 1,000 members of Arachne.  I'd love to read  what you have 
done to publicize lace making over the past weekend (3  days).
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Torchon Lace Company and the Princess Lace Loom

[Jeriames]

For those interested:  The 68-page 1884 book by Sara Rasmussen -  
Kloeppelbuch: Eine Anleitung zum Selbstunterricht im Spitzenkloeppein (Book of  
Bobbin Lace: Self-instructions for Bobbin Lace Making) - is available for  
reading.  Select "Books" and then scroll down to Rasmussen at:
 
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html 
 
Karen, your blog captures so much of the history of the Princess Lace Loom, 
 and so I am repeating the address where our members can  learn from it.
 
http://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/torchon-lace-company-fine-line-between-en
trepreneurship-and-fraud

When reading Karen's blog, I was thinking Sylvester G. Lewis profited by  
abducting centuries of ground work done by lace makers (mostly  female).  
That then made me think of our current lack of  adequate leadership to promote 
public awareness of lace.  My gut  says that if a guy could make it 
profitable, he would probably have  taken at least one of our suggestions these 
past 
2 days, and run with  it.  A century from now, people would be reading 
about him, and never the  few of us struggling to keep all aspects of  handmade 
lace alive!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine, USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

In a message dated 7/23/2016 8:07:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
karenhthomp...@gmail.com writes:

Dear  Antje and arachneans,

Mr. Lewis copied most of his material, including  the lace pillow from the
Danish author Sara Rasmussen's Knipling (also  published in German at the 
same
time). And maybe the Swedish lacemaker he  saw was using a Danish style 
pillow.
-Karen
-

On  Jul 23, 2016, at 3:35 AM, AGlez   wrote:

What an  interesting article, Karen! I had heard in Arachne about the
Princess  Pillow, but didn't really know what you were talking about!

Now, a  question arises after reading your article: here in Europe I have
seen the  Danish pillows, which are so similar to this "machine". Did Lewis
copy it  or, at least, get a lot of inspiration?

Thanks a  lot for sharing your article! Antje Gonzalez, in  Spain

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[lace] #2 - Supporting Young Lacemakers, Publicity, Networking

[Jeriames]

Dear Amanda,
 
Happy to see your correspondence from Philadelphia.
 
Knitters wear their knitting.  For the sake of enticing young fiber  
artists and making people connected with funding organizations aware of the  
laces 
being made today:
 
We must wear our laces in our everyday lives!
 
You might show knitters the only "book" on laceioli, which I wrote for  
International Organization of Lace, Inc. as a free donation to fill  the gap of 
few examples of quality needle lace.  It is the most  visited site on 
laceioli (5,639 visitors as of today).  This IOLI address  also has an 
incredible 
amount of information for scholars about  researching laces, which follows 
the photo essay.  If you are out  meeting the public and have a computer 
with you, you can set it up to show this  needle lace that takes one's breath 
away.
 
http://laceioli.ning.com/forum/topics/french-chateau-laces-under-constructio
n  

The Chesapeake Region Lace Guild has (for 3 years) listed it on a page in  
their newsletter, so people can "point and enlarge" and see elements that 
would  be nice to learn.  You can use the very lovely threads or  yarns 
available today to recreate these beautifully-designed trees  and flowers, in 
colorful needle lace.  Perfection does  not matter.  Wearing what you make does 
matter. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
In a message dated 7/22/2016 9:33:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
la...@quandary.org writes:

I love  that we have laceioli!  But it doesn't really address the issue
of  seducing my local knitters over to the lace side of the force :)

Amanda  Furrow
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,  US
--
On Fri, Jul 22, 2016  at 04:52:41PM -0500, Lorelei Halley wrote:
> Amanda
> Perhaps you  are not aware of laceioli, a ning group which includes all 
form
> of  hand made lace as its territory. It includes both tatting and  
teneriffe,
> as well as others. Joining is free. The IOLI pays our  annual hosting fee 
to
> ning. The software makes posting and discussing  photos very easy. Its
> membership is much wider than IOLI members only.  In fact, I think that 
less
> than half the members are also IOLI  members.  And many are also members 
of
> Arachne.   We  currently have 1681 members.  Virtually the whole site is
> visible  to the public, members or not. The purpose of that is to make
>  knowledge and information widely available. Please come and visit.
>  http://laceioli.ning.com
> Lorelei Halley Administrator
>  ---
> Amanda Babcock Furrow
> Sent:  Thursday, July 21, 2016 11:30 PM
> To: lace@arachne.com
> Subject:  Re: [lace] Supporting young lacemakers
> 
> I had already had some  thoughts on this and I had noticed recently that 
the
> thriving knitting  groups use Meetup.com to get together - that seems to 
be
> where the 20  and 30-something crowd look for events.  I did think of 
tatting
>  and Teneriffe as gateway interests, if you will, and I was thinking  that
> lacemaking meetups (using Meetup.com), with a focus on welcoming  lace
> knitters and crocheters as well as other kinds of lace, could be  a great 
way
> to expose people to all the other options - tatting,  Teneriffe, 
needlelace
> and of course bobbinlace!
> 
>  Amanda Furrow
> Philly, Pennsylvania,  US

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[lace] Supporting Young Lacemakers, Publicity, Networking

[Jeriames]

Response to  correspondence generated by Devon Thein in which she refers to 
 supporting young lace artists and CV's (Curriculum Vitae - or,  Resumes).  
We need to make it easier for artists to find  us!
 
In the past 20 years,  I have shared with Arachne members much about public 
relations,  publicity, and marketing in connection with lace.  There is 
little evidence  that what I've shared about promoting something like  lace has 
ever been tried.  We need people who will pick up  this challenge and run 
with it.  I learned how to do this type of work in  the 1960s.  Now, 
Universities offer Marketing courses of study.   Perhaps some of you have taken 
these courses and could apply what  you learned - to lace.  
 
Internet technology is  moving forward to new capabilities very rapidly.  
Your Arachne correspondence indicates (to me) that  our major lace guilds and 
museums need to hop on board Meetup.com, Facebook,  Instagram, etc.  
 
Guild and Museum Boards  of Directors could create an appointed position 
that will be held by  someone with technological experience and a strong 
affinity for promoting lace -  by writing press releases, etc.  By learning how 
to do this,  one could add a new skill to a personal resume.
 
In reading your  correspondence of the past 2 days about supporting young  
lacemakers, my reaction was that the Guilds and Museums could write up  a 
basic illustrated public relations story for participants attending  Seminars, 
Conventions and Congresses, write a "Dear participant" letter  explaining 
the press release, and put it in the registrants' packets  of information 
(sometimes called goody bags).  
 
All a lacemaker would  have to do upon arrival back at home would be to 
attach a personal/local  lace-related photo, or several, and mail it to a local 
newspaper or TV  station (or both, though a different story to each would 
be preferable).   Shy or concerned about privacy?  Use a nickname, as I do -- 
for  all lace and embroidery correspondence and memberships.  In some parts 
of  the world, you do need to establish a safe way for readers to contact  
you.  Meet new people in a public place, like a public  library.
 
My free local weekly newspaper puts information and  photos on its pages 
about the progress of college students, news about  business professionals, 
announcements of new businesses, and so  forth.  All these originate as press 
releases.  Would YOU participate  in an effort to reach potential 
lacemakers, if our official Guilds and  Museums wrote the publicity 
information?  
Though they may not re-act, local  TV stations do sometimes offer local "news" 
of this kind.  They need  art-related and human interest items that will 
balance hard  news. 
 
Far in advance, we have  descriptions of lace gatherings, which could serve 
as local press releases.  Add something about the local lace group - and 
pop it in the  mail or e-mail. 
 
You won't get positive  results all the time, but if you don't try - you'll 
get absolutely no  results.  
 
A press release is most  likely to be accurate, which is not always the 
case when a reporter tries  to write photo captions and understand the wide 
variety of skills we are trying  to keep alive.
 
Is everything about the who, what, when, where and how  included?  Always 
ask someone you trust to proofread your press  release.  Sometimes we become 
so close to what we have written that we  do not see errors, omissions, or 
typos.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine  USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center   

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[lace] Death of Radmila Zuman, American Czech Lace Expert

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers,
 
We have lost another of our precious lace experts, Radmila Zuman.
 
You can read her obituary by clicking on her name (on the  right) at:
 
http://www.dignitymemorial.com/garner-funeral-service/en-us/index.page
 
Be sure to click to read the entire write-up about her life, because there  
is much about lace.  I have put a note in the guest book, and thought some  
of you might also like to send appreciation for all she contributed to lace 
 knowledge.  However, messages may not appear, according to  the automatic 
message I received after posting.   Horrid how businesses try to profit from 
such things.  Here  is what I wrote:
 
"Radmila was a lace teacher and author who brought Czech lace (and culture) 
 to many lace guild members.  We have lost a great friend who promoted this 
 art across America and also in her native country.  Some of us  remember 
how thrilled she was to attend the 2004 l'Organisation International de  la 
Dentelle au Fuseau et a l'Aigulle (OIDFA) Congress in Prague.  Love to  her 
family and close friends.  Radmila, may your threads never tangle  in Heaven. 
 Jeri Ames, Winthrop, Maine"  
 
Hope IOLI and other guilds around the world will be able to feature  her 
last piece of lace (described in the obituary) on a Bulletin  cover, and give 
her a nice send-off.  
 
We simply cannot afford to lose so many of our very talented lace artists  
without replacements.  In memory of Radmila, please encourage a young  
person to learn to make lace.  Show them the very modern pieces she  created.  
 
My library contains the following, which is in the IOLI library and  
probably in may local lace guild libraries:
 
Treasury of Patterns (in English and Czech)
Published by Palickovani, 2004
Praha, Czech Republic
90 pages of patterns, prickings, and photos of lace
Contains Referencesa (Books) and Sources (Museums/Guilds)
ISBN 80-86455-04-1
 
IOLI Library:
 
https://internationalorganizationoflace.org/Library/books_by_author.pdf
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Rosary beads recycled as spangles?

[Jeriames]

The Huguenots in England were French Protestants, which is why they fled to 
 England.  Reformation reached France early in the 16th C. and was part of  
the religious and political adversities of the time.  Search 
Saint Bartholomew's Day Massacre, 1572, for an example.
 
It may be that the beads were recycled from old rosaries,  because our 
ancestors were very unlikely to throw away anything  useful.  
 
Is there any written verifiable documentation?  If not,  and you wish to 
call them rosary beads, it should be with a caveat so  that sellers of these 
bobbin beads do not quote you to legitimize their  claims.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
--
In a message dated 7/19/2016 8:32:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
baile...@btinternet.com writes:
 
Dear  Diana and Vicky,,

That is a good suggestion. I've noticed another on  eBay this week.  With 
the Hugenot connection to lace  I tend to  forget about the minority 
Catholics in the area.

With best  wishes

Louise

> On 1 Jul 2016, at 15:09, Diana Smith   
wrote:
> 
> I wonder if the  porthole beads your referring to are rosary beads. Some 
can be made from bone,  others from wood, and have probably been reused from 
broken rosary's. 
>  
> Perhaps Brian has pictures in his research, if not I can send some to  
him.
> 
> Diana 

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Re: [lace] OIDFA Congress

[Jeriames]

>From my perspective, a one-time invitation today of how to find  me - is 
enough for people I'd love to meet.  
 
At the IOLI conventions in the U.S., lodging, meals, lectures, sales  rooms 
and activities are all in one hotel, making a lunch meeting  fairly easy to 
organize. 
 
This is not the case during the 3-day business portion of OIDFA  
Congresses.  There have to be multiple hotels because they are not able to  
accommodate everyone in one hotel.  
 
There does not appear to be much lunch time on the schedule,  if we wish to 
attend all the lectures at the Congress venues.And, I remember it takes 
a long time for servers to take  food orders from a group of chattering 
women, wait time to prepare the  food, time deliver the food, time to eat, and 
then the complications of  paying for it.  All with people whose first 
language is not English.
  
Jeri

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[lace] OIDFA Congress

[Jeriames]

It is too quiet again.  So, let me ask
 
Will you be attending the OIDFA Congress in Slovenia?  This is an  
*invitation* to meet me !
 
There is no one I know in Slovenia whom we could ask  to coordinate a group 
meeting.  However, I'd love to meet you  individually.  Look for a 5' 2" 
woman nearing  age 80, in a very bright pink hat, which I'm planning to wear 
every  day in order to be found.
 
Please approach me and introduce yourself.  Know that if I'm with  someone, 
it is possible that the other person will also be an Arachne  member.  
Hoping this will add some hugs and extra sunshine to your  experience.
 
Jeri

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[lace] CORRECTION Status of Lady Evelyn's Needlework Collection

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers and Lace  CollectorsCORRECTION
 
It has been pointed out to me by Jean Leader that there are 2  Blair 
Castles in Scotland.  The second being in Ayrshire, south of  Glasgow!  That is 
the castle and contents that were sold.  There ought  to be a law!  Whew!  
That is good news.  
 
Apparently, the needlework is safe in Perthshire.  You should know I  tried 
to verify this with my tour leader, Marion, on March 30.   She wrote to her 
Scottish friend, an embroidery expert.  And, that was  not caught by the 
Scottish embroidery expert.  I've been sitting on the  story for over a month, 
just in case more info would become available.  It  did not.  
 
I saw no mail (again) from Arachne today, and tried to stir the pot.   It 
was most successful.  The pot boiled over, and over again!!  
 
Sorry all.  Have you awakened?  Write to Arachne.  Keep it  active.
 
And, to the person who saw no lace in Perthshire's Blair  Castle:  The 
collection is kept under wraps and away from  destructive elements.  You have 
to 
write ahead and make an appointment  to see it.  The "British Arms" piece 
is displayed in the last room of the  tour, just before you enter the gift 
shop.  Not with any other  textiles.  Last time I saw it, it was just sitting 
there in a glass  case on a table top.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lady Evelyn's Needlework Collection - Sold in 2011 ?

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers and Lace Collectors
 
I have learned the exquisite laces and whitework that Lady Evelyn  Stewart 
Murray collected and made while living in Belgium early  in the 20th C., 
subsequently held in the Blair Castle collection,  Perthshire Scotland, was 
probably sold at auction in 2011.  
 
I had thought these were protected national treasures.  Obviously,  not.
 
The definitive book about Lady Evelyn's collection was  written by 4 
American members of The Embroiderers' Guild of  America, who toured the castle 
in 
1985.  I was on that Marion  Scoular-sponsored Embroidery Tour, my 1st of 3 
trips to Blair Castle with  her.  Each time, we slipped away to the little 
private room where  these precious items were kept in cabinets Lady Evelyn  
had shipped to Blair Castle in 1936 - before WWII. 
 
Marion Scoular, a graduate of the 3-year degree program at The Royal School 
 of Needlework, was contacted.  She did not know about it,  and wrote to a 
Scottish friend to confirm.  No details  were forthcoming.
 
Here is the auction story I came across. 
 

http://www.heraldscotland.com/news/13040317.Tory_minister_is_new_laird_of_hi
storic_Scottish_castle/
 
This is a terrible lesson for us to learn.  Some of Lady Evelyn's lace  
collection was stolen during WWI, so she learned a valuable lesson - to trust  
her native Scotland and relatives with her treasures.  The book tells that  
her collection passed through customs without payment of duty, as the 
collection  was considered objects of art destined for display in a museum!
 
Since it appears the entire contents of Blair  Castle were auctioned, I 
thought I'd find to whom Lady  Evelyn's lace and needlework collection was sold 
and the fate of these  items.  Then, those who have the book can slip some 
printed pages  into their books updating the history.  No luck.
 
All my versions of searching bring up the book, and nothing about the  
collection being sold.  A search of *Lady Evelyn's Embroidery of  British Arms* 
brings up photos and sites where you can see some items.  It  is worth your 
time - her personal work was other-worldly beautiful.
 
Is there someone in the U.K. knowledgeable about such things who  would 
volunteer to learn the fate of Lady Evelyn's collection?   At The Embroiderers' 
Guild headquarters?  At the Royal School of  Needlework?  At The Lace Guild?
 
There is a story here for lacemakers and needlewomen around the  world.  
Perhaps something has been written for a publication you  know about?  
 
What a sad conclusion to the story of the genius of Lady Evelyn  Stewart 
Murray,1868-1940.
 
We need to share these types of things on Arachne and attempt to save the  
history of lace.  It should not fall to a mere handful of us, at most  30, 
when there are 1,000 or so subscribed.
 
Write!  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Gifts - Why we should say Thank You

[Jeriames]

Dear Gon,
 
This message was received in Maine.  I know exactly how you feel,  Gon.  
You take time - I am sure it is a few hours of thought, sometimes  making a 
sample, getting instructions organized, and computer work to  get each message 
organized and set to go.  You share something  that others on Arachne would 
sell, but which are free to Arachne  members.   Has anyone made enough 
yardage for something special?   Write about it.
 
Everyone:  Our manners could be better.
 
There are about 1,000 members of Arachne.  Most of the replies to my  
message have been from regular correspondents.  I know that Lace Fairy  (Lori) 
often needed appreciation for all her work, but did not get  it.  In the 
beginning, she was working 18 hours a day on it.  Let  me boldly repeat:  She 
was 
working 18 hours a day on Lace Fairy!   My reaction is that surely some 
people could jot down some notes  the next time you attend an event that is 
lace-related, and report to  Arachne.
 
I know others who give much are rarely acknowledged.  Many write  for the 
lace bulletins published for lace groups around the  world.  Why not tell 
them you like what they made or wrote about?  I  cannot believe your upbringing 
did not include sharing and a few words of thanks  to anyone who gave you a 
gift.  I proofread a very nice newsletter  published here in New England.  
The editor is one of the best.   She spends many hours on a quarterly 
newsletter of 20 pages.  She does not  receive feedback.  
 
On Arachne, we get to know each other better if we participate by  
correspondence.  
 
You make new friends by joining some of the bookmark/Christmas card  
exchanges.  Have you thanked the people who organize the lace  exchanges?  Just 
wondering.  There are a lot of pairings, and it is  only the regulars who 
report back to Arachne.
 
You may be busy, but there is always time to say thank you.  
 
You do not have to buy fancy paper and envelopes, find a pen, write, get  
dressed up, commute to a post office, and stand in line to buy stamps - to  
perform this social activity.  It can be done at midnight, for Heaven's  sake.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 5/5/2016 2:50:06 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
gon.homb...@icloud.com writes:

Dear  Jeri and fellow lacemakers,

I used to send the annonce of the every  week a edging or an insertion to 
Arachne. I did not see my own message coming,  so I asked a few times if the 
message were received. No one answered. I asked  Avital the same thing. No 
answer. It seemed to me that no one was missing the  messages, I stopped 
wending them. 
I hoop this one is coming through. If so  I can send more messages again, 
otherwise I will stay lurking. 

Happy  lacing and greetings
Gon Homburg from a sunny Amsterdam, The Netherlands.  

Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone

> Op 4 mei 2016 om 17:07 heeft  jeria...@aol.com het volgende geschreven:
> 
> Dear  Lacemakers,
> 
> We have hundreds of members in various countries  who do not read any  
other 
> lace publications.
> 
>  We know hundreds of lurkers are subscribed to Arachne.  
> 
>  Many days, there is nothing in my inbox.  How can that be?
>  
> It is time for some of you who are younger to participate.   There IS  
Lace 
> news!!!  And this is a safe place to  practice your reporting  skills.
> 
> Please - *someone who  has never written to us* - write about one  of the 
>  following:  
> 
> 1.  The May/June 2016  9th annual  Lace issue of PieceWork  magazine.  
> (Arachne archives  contain what has been said about past  issues.)
> 
> 2.   The Spring 2016 IOLI (International Organization of Lace Inc.)  
>  bulletin.  Front cover is bobbin lace made by our member  Devon.   
Another member - 
> Jean Leader, of Glasgow Scotland  - has been nominated for  President of 
> IOLI.  There is a  long educational article by Jane  Atkinson of the UK.  
And 
>  there are other lace experts represented who  are Arachne members.   
> 
> Do you know these people with magical abilities?  At  the least,  you 
might 
> publicly thank them for sharing so much  time and talent.
> 
> 3.  What is in the most recent Lace  Guild (UK) bulletin?   
> 
> 4.  What is in the  most recent OIDFA bulletin?  
> 
> 5.  What is the Lace  news from Canada, South  America, Europe, Asia, 
> Africa, and  Australia?  What are  the Slovenian hosts of OIDFA up to in 
the  weeks 
> leading up to the 2016  Congress?  
> 
>  What do you mean?  NO NEWS?
> 
> Please write.  Keep  Arachne vital and relevant.
> 
> Jeri Ames in Maine USA
>  Lace and Embroidery Resource Center.
> 
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[lace] Keeping Arachne a Vital Lace News Resource

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers,
 
We have hundreds of members in various countries who do not read any  other 
lace publications.
 
We know hundreds of lurkers are subscribed to Arachne.  
 
Many days, there is nothing in my inbox.  How can that be?
 
It is time for some of you who are younger to participate.  There IS  Lace 
news!!!  And this is a safe place to practice your reporting  skills.
 
Please - *someone who has never written to us* - write about one  of the 
following:  
 
1.  The May/June 2016  9th annual Lace issue of PieceWork  magazine.  
(Arachne archives contain what has been said about past  issues.)
 
2.  The Spring 2016 IOLI (International Organization of Lace Inc.)  
bulletin.  Front cover is bobbin lace made by our member Devon.   Another 
member - 
Jean Leader, of Glasgow Scotland - has been nominated for  President of 
IOLI.  There is a long educational article by Jane  Atkinson of the UK.  And 
there are other lace experts represented who  are Arachne members.  
 
Do you know these people with magical abilities?  At the least,  you might 
publicly thank them for sharing so much time and talent.
 
3.  What is in the most recent Lace Guild (UK) bulletin?   
 
4.  What is in the most recent OIDFA bulletin?  
 
5.  What is the Lace news from Canada, South  America, Europe, Asia, 
Africa, and Australia?  What are  the Slovenian hosts of OIDFA up to in the 
weeks 
leading up to the 2016  Congress?  
 
What do you mean?  NO NEWS?
 
Please write.  Keep Arachne vital and relevant.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center.

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Re: [lace] Remembering Lace Fairy - Lori Howe

[Jeriames]

In a message dated 5/1/2016 4:54:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cearbh...@gmail.com writes:

Does any  one know what is going to happen to her wonderful  website?

Cearbhael



REPLY
 
Dear Lacemakers,
 
A simple question.  Not a simple answer..
 
Several letters to me are asking when they can read Lace Fairy  again.  
This question was sort of answered in the tribute to Lori  that I wrote:
 
"She gave me a "flash drive" of the contents, which she was assured would  
be resurrected.  It was sent to a person qualified to carry  on.

"The current status is that everything has been preserved and is being  
added to a new website that will offer a scholarly approach to Lacemaking.   
There have been numerous funding and technical problems.  We  hope to be able 
to announce it later this year."
 
We are very aware that some of you expected Lace Fairy to be  available 
quite some time ago.  My colleague (we are a committee of  two) has worked to 
find a permanent home for Lace Fairy that is  not tied to one individual who 
may not be able to carry it forward.   That has been incredibly difficult.  
You think of it as  "free".  Nothing is really free.  There has to be a 
source of  funding for years to come.  There is the matter of time.  We have  
numerous commitments.  This has just been added to make life more  challenging 
for us. 
 
Entire sections of Lace Fairy are obsolete, and will  be re-written.  That 
will need to happen every few years when  (for example) suppliers, 
resources, and  contact information changes.   We are trying to  anticipate 
problems 
that will arise when technology changes - to  make it easier for future 
volunteers who may be willing to take on Lace Fairy as  their lace project.  
Are 
you thinking 20 years ahead?  We  are.
 
Please bear with us.  We are doing our best to bring  the Lace Fairy 
resource back to you.   
 

Jeri Ames in Maine
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Remembering Lace Fairy - Lori Howe

[Jeriames]

Dear Friends of Lace Fairy - Lori Howe:  

If you have been reading Arachne for many years, you will remember Lace  
Fairy.  It is my sad task to tell you of her death on January 7,  2016.  I 
just learned this from a local person who is a member  of Lori's church.
 
In recent years, Lori had suffered from a variety of serious ailments,  
probably made much worse by a broken heart.  Her friends tried to distract  her 
with activities that she enjoyed.  However, in the last few years it  
became impossible to reach her by telephone or e-mail.  Snail mail was sent  to 
her, but there was contact only when she reached out for  something her 3 
adult children could not provide.
 
The last time I went to see her, Fall 2014, she called to  ask me to buy 
her lace collection.  She was in bed, barely able to  move.  Chatting about 
lace did not cheer  her.   
 
Lori was sent to me 21 years ago by The Embroiderers' Guild  of America.  
She wished to take embroidery lessons.  Of 20+ students  in my 
one-session-per-month class, she had the most embroidery  experience!  Whenever 
a new type 
of embroidery was introduced, it was  my custom to bring out finished items 
from my collection - to show the  possibilities.  One evening, the class 
was to  learn variations of the buttonhole stitch.  To stimulate interest, I  
arranged a surprise display of Alencon, Halas, Hardanger, Point de Gaze, 
Point  de Venise, Reticella, and Youghal laces and lacy  embroideries.
 
This began Lori's focused lace journey.  She was welcomed into  Lacemakers 
of Maine, which sometimes met at my home.  One day,  we  discussed a web 
site in Europe called  BLEN (Bobbin Lace  European Network), which showed laces 
belonging to museums in the Czech  Republic, Finland, Portugal, Spain.  
BLEN claimed to be a Virtual  Museum.  We discussed how difficult it was for 
people in  remote locations to visit museums and to get lace information.  
Lori  decided to take up this challenge.  
 
At the time, we knew of no lace guild web sites and none had been  
mentioned on Arachne.  Lori first suggested naming it "The Lace  Museum", but 
there 
was already a facility by that name in California  that  had not reserved 
their name for future internet use.  We decided  to let that facility realize 
they needed a web site, and Lori named her  Virtual Museum "Lace Fairy".  
She taught herself how to build a  web site.  It was difficult, 
time-consuming, and mostly-unacknowledged  work.  It became a resource for all 
in the 
international lace  community for the next dozen years.  
 
People all over the world sent information to Lori.  To avoid  copyright 
issues, she began to buy laces that she could photograph.   She provided 
history, grouped laces by "families", showed the laces of  today.  There was an 
entire section of photos of identified lace -  sorted by nation.  In 
addition, there was information about  bobbins, instructions on how to make 
lace 
pillows, how to make stands for  the pillows, etc.  Also, lists of important 
contacts, books,  suppliers. 
 
To do this was costly to one on a very limited income.  She  went to great 
expense for digital cameras, computers and software that had  to be upgraded 
often.  As with everyone on Arachne, there was no  mention of the high cost 
of bringing Lace Fairy to people.  Access was  free.  In those days, if you 
searched "Lace" she made sure her site's  address was the first that would 
pop up. 
 
Toward the end of her nearly-healthy years, Lori's focus shifted to  
quilting.  We did not see new entries on Lace Fairy.  The  recurring costs for 
keeping the name and contents of Lace Fairy available  finally became too much 
for Lori.  She gave me a "flash drive" of the  contents, which she was 
assured would be resurrected.  It was sent to  a person qualified to carry on.  
 
The current status is that everything has been preserved and is being  
added to a new website that will offer a scholarly approach to Lacemaking.   
There have been numerous funding and technical problems.  We  hope to be able 
to announce it later this year.
 
Obituary:  
http://obituaries.centralmaine.com/obituaries/mainetoday-centralmaine/obitua
ry.aspx?n=lorraine-howe-lori-giroux=177217362
 
Naturally, my colleague in saving some of Lace Fairy's work was consulted  
today.  She noted that in reading the obituary it occurred to her that Lori  
may have had an early exposure to lacemaking.  Lori attended the  Academy 
of St. Joseph, and according to the early history of the Sisters of  St. 
Joseph in LePuy France, they turned to lacemaking as a means of supporting  
themselves when the town fathers were no longer willing to support them.   
Though the school Lori attended is closed, there are Sisters from this  order 
throughout the U.S. - including 3 in the Philadelphia area who have  taken 
bobbin lace classes from my friend.   
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Lace Guild Museum exhibit at the NEC Birmingham

[Jeriames]

A very professionally presented exhibition.  Makes me proud to be  
associated with lace.  Gwynedd is quite correct, but you will note that the  
news 
lady uses "crochet" when actually describing a very fine lace - a  lace that 
would never answer to that term.  Language!  
 
Be sure this is not lost in the shuffle of your e-mails (I never received  
the first post, from Jane Read):  
 
http://youtu.be/XSgQ-orXHfM
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

In a message dated 4/15/2016 5:26:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sueharve...@btinternet.com writes:

Gwynedd  came to Norfolk Lacemakers lace day this year as our speaker, what 
a lovely  knowledgable lady, we overran on her time but could have listened 
for another  hour.  She brought some beautiful lace and a few got to wear 
some pieces  of her collection, one of my favourites was a lovely Bertha 
collar, it came to  life when our member was wearing it so different from just 
looking at  it.  What a treat.
Sue M Harvey
Norfolk
U.K.  
-
On 15 Apr 2016, at 13:14, Jane   wrote
 
I'm on lace digest, so perhaps someone has already posted this from the  
Lace Guild?  But in case not, just two minutes of video...
 
"Do visit http://youtu.be/XSgQ-orXHfM to see Gwynedd and Sue Smith at  the 
NEC and pictures of some of the lace from The Lace Guild Museum. It is part  
of a programme which was in a Midland TV Channel."


(Me again:) Featuring our lovely Gwynedd Roberts, Honorary Curator.  So 
knowledgable about lace and who works so hard for the Lace Guild  Museum.


Enjoy!   Jane, New Forest,  UK

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Re: [lace] RIP Catherine Linda Walton

[Jeriames]

Dear Chris,
 
You may be surprised to hear from our members around the world.  We  are 
about 1,000 in number, and over 21 years we have come to where we  cherish 
each other very much.
 
Your wife and I sometimes carried on private correspondence.  She had  an 
intellectual interest in lace and history, which she generously shared.   It 
was always a pleasure to gain new insights and learn from her.
 
Being primarily a group of women, many of us have had this terrible  
disease.  We know that it is sometimes a struggle to carry on when  stricken - 
as 
a family, couple, or alone.  There was no hint from  Linda that she was ill. 
 She always stuck to the subject of lace.
 
It is comforting to know that she was with you, and  surrounded by her 
beloved books, at the end.  Those of us who  believe souls go to a better 
place, 
know that she will be greeted by lacemakers  and have all the books she 
ever dreamed of - in Heaven. 
 
Many of us are sending you silent, perhaps unfelt-by-you,  hugs today. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
- 
 
 
In a message dated 4/13/2016 4:02:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
linda.wal...@cherryfield.me.uk writes:

This is  to let you all know that Linda Walton, a member of this group 
and my wife  passed away on the 23rd March.  The breast cancer which she 
had about  30 years ago came back and spread.  By the time we realised 
there was  nothing that could be done.

She died at home, surrounded by her books,  with me holding her hand.

The funeral is tomorrow, the 14th  April.

I know that Linda greatly enjoyed being part of this group,  thank you all.

I tried to post a message earlier but it didn't seem to  work, hopefuly 
this one will.

Regards,

Chris  Rowland

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[lace] Happy Birthday, Arachne!

[Jeriames]

My calendar says today, April 12, is our birthday.  Many  thanks to Liz, 
owner of the server, for providing this free way to communicate  about lace 
since 1995.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Magic Threads - Let's stop using term Lazy Loops

[Jeriames]

There are many memos in our Arachne archives about Magic  Threads.  
 
Lacemakers do not want anyone to think we do anything "lazy".
 
Do you remember how confusing it was when you were first learning to make  
lace, and there were several words for each technique you were trying to  
learn?  
 
If you jumped from book-to-book or teacher-to-teacher, you know what I  
mean
 
Do you remember our many memos explaining language translations, and all  
the work some of our members have done to clarify techniques and provide  
translators?
 
Lazy Loops?  I had no idea what they were when Susan used that  term.  Is 
it being used elsewhere?  If so, don't we have a  responsibility to clarify 
that this technique already has a name - or two?   And not make it into a 
list of confusing names for future lacemakers...
 
On June 11, 2013, I wrote a memo about Magic Threads for Arachne:
 
The first web address given does not seem to work any more.
 
The second address is for anyone working with fluffy or lightly twisted  
threads - you should know there is the 48-page book on Magic Thread technique 
by  Christine Springett, U.K.  It is smaller than many technique books, so  
postage should be more reasonable.  Available in the U.S. from our  usual 
lace book suppliers of Springett merchandise.  Or, have a  look at:
 
http://www.cdspringett.co.uk/acatalog/Lacemaking_Books.html 
 
There are other books, but the 2 I remember off the top of my head are  in 
the German language.  And, the ones I am thinking of are larger and  heavier 
to mail.
 
A friend has a system of using threads of different colors (like the  
rainbow) and arranging them so that the threads next to each other are 
different  
colors.  If you have the Springett book, you can see this illustrated on  
the back cover.  My friend cuts a generous supply, which are  lightly  
knotted by color, to prevent tangles and keeps them together to bring out when  
needed.  She buys spools of colored sewing thread when on sale, so there is  
not much extra cost.  Make sure the sewing thread is not fuzzy.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lace Event in Austria, April 10, 2016 Needs Translation

[Jeriames]

We need to keep lace history alive for today's young lacemakers, who have  
not studied numerous languages.  Even those whose grandparents spoke German  
are usually not learning that language in English-speaking nations.
 
Laurie Waters has given her subscribers a long list of lace events in  
Spain - too long to repeat here.
 
However, one of today's notices mentions a Lace Event in Austria  on 
Sunday, April 10.  The address Laurie gave to look at details is:
 
http://tinyurl.com/z72f793 
 
Since the contact is Leopoldine Winkler, and the lecture is "Spitzen der  
Wiener Werkstatte - Dagobert Peche" by Dr. Harmut Lang, it occurred to me 
that  it would be nice if someone would translate this.  
 
My memory goes way back, and I know there are people on Arachne who  are 
interested in laces made in this period in Austria.  We own books  by Winkler 
and Lang.  Help!  Someone!
 
It is only one paragraph, but may contain valuable information for one  of 
our lace researchers.
 
If someone attends Dr. Lang's lecture, please give us a review.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Used book prices - The Lace Guild's book offerings

[Jeriames]

I did something different this morning.  I addressed my memo to  Arachne, 
and typed my address in the "copy to" box.  Maybe that triggered  something 
causing my memo to be delivered to a wider audience?  I'm  now doing this 
again, to test it.
 
Wow!  Jane mentions internal office situations at The  Lace Guild.  I hope 
customers and potential members will not be  discouraged.  I like to focus 
on the bright side, and very much  appreciate 20 or more years of Lace Guild 
membership.  With  lots of Public Relations experience behind me, I prefer 
to  stress the best The Lace Guild has to offer.  
 
Every nation has their own holiday schedules, based on their history.  
Canada has Thanksgiving Day a month before the U.S., as an  example.  Good 
Friday, Easter Monday, May Day, Spring  Day, last Monday in August and Boxing 
Day 
- are not official holidays  in the U.S., though some may be optional.  I 
think it best to let what  I said be as was stated.  
 
Generally, not calling any business facility in another country on  Monday 
is all-around good advice.  I like reaching them between 10 and  11 a.m., so 
it is clearly before lunchtime.  Repeat: Just as soon as  your call is 
answered, state the nation you are calling from and ask not to  be put on hold 
or transferred to a phone that is not guaranteed  to be answered.  I use a 
Guild calendar to verify British  Bank Holidays, since I order 6 calendars 
each year to use as  gifts.  But, most people in other countries will not have 
that  advantage.  Arachne is an international group with 24 time zones,  and 
my recommendation takes time differences into account.  
 
My memo about where to get lower-priced used books took the  better part of 
a Saturday morning to write and edit, but I thought it might be  beneficial 
for all to be reminded about items The Lace Guild has for  sale.  
 
Jane has written about the library.  That may be where book  purchase 
orders are processed, but I would not assume so.  I was  writing about the 
products for sale, including the most recent list of used  books.  Quite 
different 
from borrowing a book in a lending library  available to in-country members.
 
I think the greatest benefit of belonging to The Lace Guild for anyone in  
another nation is The Lace Guild's quarterly  magazines!  They are something 
tangible to celebrate  internationally.  Please borrow one from a member, 
so you can see for  yourselves.  
 
A friend is still dealing with effects of a security breach that  occurred 
when Pay Pal was first introduced.  So, I never mention it as an  option.  
If you know it to be foolproof, by all means, use it.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center


 
In a message dated 4/2/2016 4:23:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mous...@live.co.uk writes:
 
... this is the first time in ages I've been able to see one of  Jeri's 
messages without the aid of the digest!

Just a couple of points.  No matter where you call from, if you are asking 
about something in the library  and it is a day when Sara is in the office, 
then you will be put on hold whilst  the call is transferred to her, and she 
may not be at her desk at that  particular moment. Calls during lunch are 
taken by the answerphone.  If  Sara is not in the office, then it may require 
a message to be taken and acted  upon later. The Guild currently has (or 
soon will have) a new member of staff in  training, and if s/he answers the 
phone s/he can't be expected to know  everything - at least, not for the first 
six months or so! So please be  patient..
 
Secondly, our Bank Holidays (in England and Wales; Scotland and NI)  are 
not that difficult to work out. New Years' Day (or the nearest Monday if it  
falls on a Saturday or Sunday); Good Friday, Easter Monday, the first (May 
Day)  and last (Spring) Mondays in May; the last Monday in August, Christmas 
Day and  Boxing Day (again, if these fall on Saturday or Sunday then the 
holiday is the  Monday or Monday and Tuesday). Most offices I have worked in 
take Monday and  Tuesday off for Easter and the Spring and August Bank 
Holidays, but I think the  staff at The Hollies only have the basic days. 
Friday is 
Members Day at The  Hollies.

Just occasionally we get an extra day at Her Majesty's command,  but not 
very often.

Jeri is correct, The Guild's membership has fallen  dramatically over the 
years to the point where membership income nowhere near  covers costs, so 
donations and legacies are very welcome (as they are with any  
charity).Guilds such as IOLI, OIDFA, The Lace Guild, etc are terrific  
resources for 
lacemakers and few realise that the relevant magazine is probably  the smallest 
benefit they can gain through their membership. The word "Guild"  can be 
off-putting for a new lacemaker, who might not think they are up to  
"standard", but believe me membership is probably one of the best moves a  
beginner 
can make, in having thousands of 

[lace] Used book prices - The Lace Guild's book offerings

[Jeriames]

Our British lace friends are far too modest about the riches they have  
created, so I'll toot a horn for them - again.  (I note they do have  an 
"Introduction to Milanese Lace" by Pat Read for sale for 6 British  pounds.)
 
As the owner of over 1,000 lace books I know devils will try to price  them 
out of reach.  These are probably lazy guys sitting at home in their  
underwear and playing book dealer, even when they don't have a book in  stock.  
They price the book high, so they can then go and buy the book from  another 
source at a lower price - to fill your order and pocket the  difference.  
 
Here is a first-rate suggestion:
 
Jean Leader announced March 26th - on Arachne - the "used book" sale  at 
The Lace Guild in England, as follows: 
 
https://www.laceguild.org/suppliers/books.html - just click on Books for  
Sale for the PDF file.

Though used Milanese books by Read are  not in this installment, I have 
filled in many gaps in my lace  library by purchasing in this way.  Go and have 
a look.  You'll  be surprised what has been donated by members - to be put 
back in  circulation.  The Lace Guild raises money, and you buy used books 
at fair  prices.  They have an office with paid staff, and a small museum -  
dependent on dues and funds raised.  
 
AT callers from U.S. should dial 011 + 44 - 1384  390739   Immediately 
tell the person who answers that you are calling  from the U.S., so you won't 
be put on "hold".
 
We never know when the Monday "bank holidays" are, so call other days of  
the week.  I get a lift from a cheery British-accented greeting that is  well 
worth the cost of the call.  I order the books I want and give my  credit 
info over the phone (which I consider the safest way).  Please  remember the 
British Isles are 5 hours ahead of New York City Time.  I aim  for 10-11 
a.m. British time. 
 
Read the entire offering of Guild products on-line so you  understand the 
prices.  Make a neat list to read from, that you will  e-mail with your 
mailing address - to confirm.  Pre-order  calendars for 2017, and solve some 
Christmas shopping challenges.   Join The Lace Guild, and you will love the 
Quarterly Bulletins and the  contents - all submitted by volunteers.  The 
Bulletins are 64 pages, packed  with color photography.  Do not compare cost to 
IOLI memberships  without taking this into account.  Yes, postage is high.  
Blame it on  9/11/01 and the added security measures required of postal 
authorities all  over the world.
 
Pegin:  Have you checked what Louise Colgan has published about  Milanese 
Lace?  She teaches nationally - all over the U.S. 
 
Everyone still with me?   In lace friendship 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Canadian Lacemakers

[Jeriames]

Congratulations on the 30th anniversary of the founding of Canadian  
Lacemaker Gazette, which links Lacemakers from Atlantic to Pacific,  and links 
all 
lacemakers in your very large nation.
 
As a result of concentrated efforts, there are now 35 Canadian lacemaking  
groups in your directory.  You have subscribers in England,  France, 
Australia, the U.S. and other countries all over the world -  placing you in a 
position of lace sharing and strength.
 
Canadian lacemakers have also established strong lace links by joining  
IOLI, OIDFA, Arachne and other groups of lacemakers far from Canada.   Some of 
your lacemakers have served in volunteer leadership positions  in these 
organizations, for which we are all grateful.
 
_www.lacegazette.com_ (http://www.lacegazette.com) 
 
What you have accomplished in 30 years is awesome!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Lace in Rauma

[Jeriames]

Dear Sylvie,
 
20 to 22 years ago, the OIDFA Congress was held in Finland, and Rauma lace  
was featured.  Please, if someone attended, perhaps they can help.
 
Sylvie, you need to try to get to a lace guild's library that contains  
OIDFA bulletins for the period about 1993 and after - (the 2 to 3 years  prior 
to the Rauma OIDFA Congress).  There will be Rauma articles in the  
bulletins.
 
You can also do a Rauma Lace search via your computer.  There will be  a 
Lace festival there at the end of July 2016, per private correspondence I  
received just today.
 
If you want lace books, go to the IOLI web site's Library.  The second  
listing of books is alphabetically by Author's names.  All the books  by 
Eeva-Liisa Kortelahti that are available for members to borrow will be listed  
there.
 
It is possible some of Kortelahti's books are available for purchase  from 
Barbara Fay.  
_www.barbara-fay.de_ (http://www.barbara-fay.de) 
This book business is located in Germany and they speak perfect  English; 
easy to order from.  Barbara is deceased.  Her daughter,  Dagmar is the 
person with whom I now do business.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 3/29/2016 1:34:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sylvieroyngu...@gmail.com writes:

Hello,  
I'm wondering if anyone is familiar with bobbin lace made in Rauma,  
Finland. 

Sylvie in sunny Illinois
USA  

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Re: [lace] Assuit Also Asyut / Assiut / Tulle bi telli

[Jeriames]

Dear Lace Lovers,
 
There is not much about lace and lacy that we have not discussed on  
Arachne.  That includes these machine-woven tulle shawls,  embroidered with 
metal 
strips. 
 
I own one.  My shawl is what I'd call grim off-white.  It  measures 80" x 
22 1/2".  To give an idea of value, a vintage textile  dealer near me 
estimated a 2011 retail value at $250.  Not  much.  A collection treasure 
because 
of its uniqueness, but I  understand many were made in the early 20th C.  
Especially popular after  King Tut's tomb was opened in 1922. 
 
We used to have a file in our archives calledAsyutand my old 
research found a spelling of  Assuit with ui reversed:  As Assiut.  You can do 
computer  searches using all these spellings.  As our readers well know, 
spelling  differences occur for many laces and textiles, depending on the 
nationality of  the person writing.  Do searches under all the spellings and 
you 
will reap  more information.
 
Here is an example site to view:  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tulle_bi_telli  
Translation:  Net with metal (tells the history)
 
For photos, search   Egyptian net embroidery
 
There was a lovely article in the magazine Ornament, 1989 Winter,  pages 
66-67, published in Los Angeles.  This magazine is mostly for  people who make 
jewelry.  This article says the invention of the bobbinet  machine in Tulle 
France in the early 19th century gave impetus to the popularity  of 
hexagonal mesh fabric and it became known commonly as "tulle".  In  Egypt, 
after 
manufacture using white or black cotton or linen thread, the  fabric was given 
to local artisans and embroidered with 1/8 inch flat strips of  metal: gilt 
silver or copper wire and later chrome-plated copper or brass.   (This is 
why I'm reluctant to wet clean my shawl.  Maybe the white  shawls were dyed 
after wet cleaning stains appeared from the  metals.)This is your 
conservation lesson for today!
 
This technique has popped up in PieceWork, published in the U.S.   My 
personal correspondence to them references:
 
1.  Rivers, Victoria - The Shining Cloth has a photo on pg.  91
 
2.  Gillow, John & Sentance, Bryan - World Textiles has  a photo on pg. 
209, which Gillow says is from Lebanon.  I have met him  in England, and I 
remember closely reading this book.  There are some  errors.  In this case, I 
think he may have purchased the shawl in  Lebanon, but that it was probably 
made in Egypt.  There is just too  much confirmed research that this technique 
is Egyptian.
 
If you have found this of interest and think you may need later  - save, or 
print and put it in a file or in a related book.   I have found that our 
archives are dropping correspondence - and this  subject may arise again years 
from now.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 3/28/2016 9:49:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Hello  All!  Was anyone else watching Antiques Roadshow tonight?  Near the  
end of the episode, the appraiser looked at a drop dead Egyptian shawl, 
circa  1920's, & called the textile "assuit".  When I Googled, the  description 
seemed reminiscent of Lacis or Liers lace except that the "thread"  is flat 
metal, sort of like plate used in goldwork.  Short lengths of  1/8" wide 
metal are woven onto a tulle foundation with a flat needle rather  than 
Luneville hook.  The finished "fabric" is heavy but drapes  well.  Just 
wondered 
if anyone has tried this technique or will  comment.  The AR piece was quite 
lovely with rows of stylized trees,  flowers & geometrics interspersed with 
open tulle foundation.  Susan  Hottle

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[lace] Registration for Slovenia OIDFA Congress problems

[Jeriames]

Last week, AOL firmly blocked email to Slovenia. 
 
My solution was to call them at 4 a.m. New York City time.  This  way, I 
could be certain everything was in the correct  hands.  Have the same problem? 
 Email me, and I'll share  what worked.  

-
I've read on Arachne that others are having  increasing problems with email 
from various ISPs.  I've tried all  sorts of things to get my messages 
through Arachne's server.  In the  process, I was reminded that AOL was 
acquired 
by Verizon in  June 2015.  Billing changes began to appear on my credit 
card  account 2 months ago, so I imagine it is natural that they are changing 
how  messages are delivered and implementing new security measures that our  
Arachne server is not programmed to receive.  The easiest way to  read what 
happened to AOL is in Fortune Magazine:
 
http://fortune.com/2015/06/24/verizon-gains-aol/
 
I suspect this will not be the final solution for AOL.  Its history of  
ownerships is unsettling. 
 
Everyone having problems:  Be sure to read the final paragraph of  Avital's 
3/24/16 message - from spindexr.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Thread for Hollie Point

[Jeriames]

Dear Julie,
 
1.  Catherine Barley, the author of the book you are using, is a  member of 
Arachne.  There are 329 messages from her in the archives under  her name.  
So, wait a bit, and maybe she will weigh in with her  experience.  To 
verify I am correct, type her name in the search box  at:
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.ccom/index.html
 
2.  We have written a lot about threads through the years, and some of  
those memos are in the archives, if you search a variety of ways.  This is  a 
long research process, but I think a search of the following and other memos  
in the "Structure of Threads for Lace" file might help:
_http://www.mail-archive.com/lace%40arachne.com/msg35959.html_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg35959.html) 
 
3.  One thing not mentioned in quite this way, so in  my words - thread has 
grain.  You must stitch with the grain, and  not against it.  This will 
reduce wear on thread and fuzzy results.   Draw the thread through your thumb 
and index finger in each direction.  One  will feel smoother than the other.  
Once you have determined that,  always thread your needle from the end that 
produces the smoothest  feel.  Even DMC embroidery floss has a grain.  It 
will take a while to  develop touch sensitivity, but it is highly 
recommended.   
 
Grain of thread is something that was taught to young girls in  American 
7th grade home economics classes 60 years ago.  READ  PLEASE:  The sewing 
thread for your sewing machine comes off the spool in  the direction you need 
to 
thread into the needle's eye - not only  for a sewing machine - but also 
for hand sewing. 
 
Unfortunately, this is not true of all thread coming off a spool.   Some 
modern manufacturers seem to do whatever is convenient, being  unfamiliar with 
how we use the thread (explained in the book referenced in (2)  above).  
 
4.  Julie, the nicest way to learn lacemaking and advance quickly is  with 
others who share your interest.  Are you aware of the Chesapeake  Region 
Lace Guild?  _www.crlg.org/_ (http://www.crlg.org/) .  They draw members  from 
the states surrounding Washington DC.  Also, The Embroiderers' Guild  of 
America has several chapters near you.  http://www.egausa.org/  
 
Needle laces are more likely to be taught by The Embroiderers' Guild.   
They embrace all lace works made with a threaded needle, and have quite a  few 
teachers in the U.S.  At this time in history, lace guilds seem to be  
focusing on bobbin lace.  (I have belonged to 4 local lace guilds between  
Maine 
and Washington DC for up to 4 decades, and to EGA for nearly 50  years, so 
feel secure in this claim.)
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  
--
 
In a message dated 3/21/2016 3:12:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jsyz...@comcast.net writes:

Should I try a different thread?  I guess threads are either cotton,  
linen, or silk.  Or any of those types right out of the question for  Hollie 
Point, or needlelace in general?  What do I look for in a  thread?
I am wondering if maybe some threads stand up to the abuse  better than 
others and Tanne 50 is not the sturdiest choice.  Also, what  about the final 
result?  Do some threads give nicer final results?   And what about the feel 
of thread as you work with it?  In bobbin lace I  enjoy the way different 
thread material feels differently as I work with  it.
My book mentions "Brok 160 or Egyptian Cotton 120".  How do  Brok and 
Egyptian Cotton compare with Tanne 50? 
What size thread  should I be using anyway?  Brok 160 and EC 120 are, 
according to my  thread chart, significantly smaller than Tanne 50.  Should I 
stick with  threads the same size as Tanne 50 or would I find that I can after 
all make  needlelace in good light with a smaller thread?  In general I am 
the sort  of person who likes lace to be fine.  I get bored with coarse  lace.
Maybe you guys will talk about threads andmake me feel inspired  to try new 
ones.

Julie Shalack
Laurel, Maryland,  USA

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[lace] 1795 Needle-lace sampler

[Jeriames]

Just found on http://winterthur.org/embroidery
 
There are two items of interest:
 
1.  Definition of the word art and the word craft - this is one  of the 
best (my humble opinion), and confined to one paragraph.
 
2.  Click on the second item on the right, and view a larger image of  a 
1795 needle-lace sampler.  These samplers were taught in private  schools for 
girls in the Philadelphia area in the 18th century.  Very  few have 
survived.  This one is unique (to me) for having some  embroidered elements 
rendered 
in blue silk.  You will note that there are  other types of lacy work, 
including deflected-or-pulled thread and withdrawn  threads that left a more 
open textile weave that was then embellished  with stitching.
 
If you are in another nation, you can place this work in historical context 
 by knowing that the American Revolutionary War ended 1783.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Philadelphia's Lace Collection/Bad Lace Presentations/21st C. Bobbins

[Jeriames]

I receive private memos often.  They feed my desire to  know what is 
happening in the lace community, and sometimes inspire memos that  are sent to 
Arachne.  A Pennsylvania friend has sent some interesting  information, for 
which I have asked permission to share.  The words are  hers, unless they are 
identified as mine.  
 
1. Here's a link to lace in the Philadelphia Museum of Art:  
http://bit.ly/229QEnT  
 
I found this particularly interesting because I contacted them in 2004 to  
schedule a field trip to see their lace collection.  I had documentation  
that indicated that Philadelphia MoA had a 'sister' collection to the  
Metropolitan MoA collection.  A curator, whom we later met  at the 2005 Costume 
Society Conference we attended together, adamantly  insisted the Philadelphia 
MoA had no lace collection.  Now, it shows  up 12 years later??!!
 
2.  On another note, this past weekend I attended the Civilian  Symposium, 
which provides a scholarly approach to the civilian side of the  Civil War 
that you were asked to do the research for last year. Oh,  my!!  She 
obviously had no respect for lacemakers past or present, or their  historical 
contribution.  In fact, she was quite flip about the subject as  a whole.  She 
couldn't pronounce the names of the laces correctly.   Her "expertise" at 
identifying lace was based on a few pieces in a collection  that she was privy 
to, and she drew some seriously lacking conclusions, based on  her 20th and 
21st century perspective.  I received a copy of her  bibliography, which 
included Pat Earnshaw's books, but made no reference to  Elizabeth Kurella's 
research.  I was sitting beside a Civil  War-era needlework expert - a scholar 
with knowledge of technique and  history.  She was appalled.  Unfortunately, 
about 275 participants  walked away with serious mis-information.  
 
(I, Jeri - recall not feeling I should do Civil War lace research for  
someone who obviously knew very little about lace, but was being promoted as an 
 
expert and probably receiving a speaking fee.  I did not want my name to be 
 quoted by a person I did not know.  Sad, but I very much care what the  
public learns from us, and how they use it.  The organization should have  
done more research into their speaker's qualifications.)
 
In getting approval to share the original contents of information from my  
Pennsylvania friend, she added to the above paragraph:  "I, too, care very  
much what the public learns, and I think this was a situation where this 
speaker  mis-represented her expertise.  There have been presenters from Old  
Bethpage Village in the past who were very credible, and I think she was 
riding  on their coattails."
 
3.  Here are links to 21st C. bobbins made with a 3D  printer:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/lace-bobbins 
and
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openwork-decorative-lace-bobbin  

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Blocked e-mail. Is this legal? Should it be illegal?

[Jeriames]

There are approximately 1,000 subscribers to Arachne.  It works  for most.  
When I send a letter to Arachne it is because I think more  than one person 
will be interested.  Otherwise, the time required is just  too great - I 
want a "big bang for my buck", as the saying goes.  This  means "results for 
my money, or time, or knowledge".
 
It has been a pleasure to share lace knowledge, but when working for a  
large corporation I learned that no one is indispensable. 
 
The suggested Arachne digest option does not suit my  purpose.  Some 
appeals for help are time-sensitive.  
 
I refuse to make complicated arrangements and set up extra  subscriptions 
with other companies to be able to communicate with our  international lace 
community.  
 
Blocking e-mail smells like an illegal action.  AOL collects  monthly fees 
for service, and I will address this with them.  It looks  like Yahoo 
collects fees as well.  We also buy stamps to pay  for postal service, and that 
mail must be delivered - by law and agreements  between nations.  Your paid 
phone company cannot refuse to connect  some calls: we enjoy universal 
service.  Calls to other nations are  paid for with a portion of what you pay 
to 
your telephone provider.  

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

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[lace] Arachne Needs a Team to Develop Updated Capabilities

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers,
 
Thanks to the members of Arachne who wrote privately about how to access  
the New Mexico article.  It is extremely important for our  international 
group to become acquainted with what is going on lace-wise in the  American 
Southwest, which is why I became upset when the article was not in my  in-box 
nor in the archives I accessed.
 
The explanation of feuding AOL/Yahoo/etc. from Amanda must be  considered 
seriously by all of us.  Most have been under the impression we  are 
receiving all memos sent to Arachne from around the world.   Clearly, not true. 
 
This feuding may explain the days when no  Arachne mail is received.
 
Is anyone presently working on this problem?  If not, now is the  time to 
set up an Arachne technology-knowledgeable team to wrestle with all  our 
problems.  It may require some funding to make it possible  to preserve what 
has 
been written in the past 20-plus years, and updated  programming that will 
result in all letters to Arachne going to each  member.
 
A lot of lace expertise is shared in our archive files (some  from deceased 
members).  It needs to be saved.   
 
How do we do this?  
 
Will someone take on the responsibility of saving and sharing a  
distillation of replies to this appeal?   
 
I am working over-time on a huge lace-related project that will benefit  
many lace researchers, so must take myself out of the  picture.   
 
For a start, we need a committed computer technology  volunteer team with 
specific skills and experience, plus someone  to be the leader's right hand.  
(Two, similar  to Scotland's Jean and David Leader team - no pun  
intended.)  
 
Do you know someone who qualifies and is willing?  
 
This may be a way that younger members will become well-known to many  of 
us.  This will be an accomplishment to add (hopefully) to a  professional 
resume.  
 
Our computer technology team will need to interface with the  generous 
owner of Arachne's old server, so it stays up and running until  tests of all 
things new are absolutely working well and  backed-up.  This team will also 
need to interface with our  most-precious volunteer, Avital, the expert who 
signs up new members  and manages any problems of inappropriate mail.   
 
Amanda's easy-to-understand comments are below.  We all need  to be aware 
of what she has explained, and all need to support efforts  to solve these 
problems - for everyone.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 
In a message dated 3/13/2016 10:57:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
la...@quandary.org writes:
 
That is  almost certainly because the original email about lace in New
Mexico was  sent from a yahoo.com account, and you are reading from
an aol.com  account.  Yahoo.com broke their users' ability to use mailing
lists in  2014 when they changed their DMARC configuration, announcing
to all other  mail servers in the world that no yahoo.com email was allowed
to come from  a non-yahoo.com server, not even via a mailing list server.
Recipients  whose providers pay attention to this announcement, like Gmail
and AOL, can  then no longer see emails that yahoo.com users send to 
mailing  
lists.

Incidentally, AOL did the same thing!  Many mailing  list users can likely 
no longer see your own messages, Jeri, for the same  reason.

Sadly, the arachne list runs on old software that apparently  can not work
around this issue.  Common workarounds basically obscure  the origin of
yahoo.com and gmail.com emails so that all mailing list  recipients will
still see them, but there is no update for our mailing list  to do this.

Amanda Furrow
Philly, Pennsylvania,  US

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Re: [lace] Lace Article in New Mexico

[Jeriames]

To what is this memo referring?  There is no letter about  lace in New 
Mexico in my Arachne in-box, and I do not find it in the  Arachne archives as 
new correspondence.  This has happened several times  recently, and is cause 
for concern.  Are others having the same  problem???
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center.
-
 
In a message dated 3/13/2016 12:39:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
maur...@roger.karoo.co.uk writes:

That is  very interesting, thank you.  Nice to read about lacemaking in 
other  parts of the world.

Regards 
Maureen
E Yorkshire  UK

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[lace] Accurate Historical Enactments by Lacemakers

[Jeriames]

Thank you, Clay, for advocating a knowledge of history before presenting  
lacemaking in an inappropriate venue.  Many people have bad memories of how  
history was taught to them in school - nearly all about wars and the ruling  
classes and endless dates to memorize.  
 
Lacemakers need to understand that they are often demonstrating and talking 
 to people who are interested in what civilians did in the timeframe being  
re-enacted.  Some of our esteemed book and magazine authors of lace  
history have presented it in ways that are enjoyable to learn.   It can really 
be 
rewarding to accurately tell about the lacemakers who came  before us - who, 
what, when, where, how.  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Research Center
---
 
 
In a message dated 3/12/2016 8:09:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
clayblackw...@comcast.net writes:

Reading  Brenda's knowledgeable review of the apparent absence of 
lacemaking in Celtic  regions reminds me of something I have seen for years in 
Virginia!   Reenactment of  Civil War battles were all over the entire country 
in  
recent years, and reenactors were everywhere!  The problem is, lots of  
women wanted to get in on the fun, and so they dressed themselves in hoop  
skirts and sat on the sidelines making bobbin lace!  That was so wrong in  so 
many ways!  Women,during the civil war, and especially near  battlefields, did 
not make lace!  They struggled to provide food and  shelter for their 
families and certainly did not have the time or interest in  lacemaking.  
Remember that machine lace had become available by that  point, and Lacemaking 
by 
hand was quickly becoming a lost art.  It was  not until a few decades after 
the end of the war that Europeans revived the  lost art, and it was years 
later before American women caught on.   

I think that in our enthusiasm to share this wonderful work, we really  
need to provide accurate information.

Clay
>> 
>> I'd  like to find some information about bobbin lace specifically in  the
>> Celtic nations (officially: Ireland, Wales, Scotland, Isle of  Man, 
Brittany
>> [northwest corner of France], and Cornwall, and some  lists also include
>> Galicia in northern Spain). Can someone  recommend a book or other 
source of
>> such information? All I've  found online is about Ireland, and not very 
much
>> of  that.

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Re: [lace] Working an edging on a roller pillow, mini-laces

[Jeriames]

Please read memos from our experts - so you can learn without huge  
investments in books, classes, travel, lodging, etc.
 
It is disturbing to see anyone trying to manipulate a traditional  lace, 
and finding that they have problems like the one cited in this  discussion.
 
Everyone trying to invent new ways to make lace, please consider the fact  
that an experienced lacemaker anywhere from 500+ years ago to the early  
20th C. made bobbin lace on a suitable lace pillow, and used suitable  bobbins. 
 This is well-illustrated by a wonderful 2002 book from the  German bobbin 
lacemakers' association - Deutscher Kloppelverband:   
"Kloppel-Kissen-Stander", and in the English translation by  Dr. Ann E. Wild 
that could be 
purchased with it:  "Bobbins-Pillows-Stands".  (My copy of both came from Van 
Sciver  in the U.S.)  The original hardback book is lavishly illustrated with  
color photos.  It is arranged by nation (21 of them), starting with  Germany.
 
It would be surprising if anyone who had read this did not realize they  
were learning why bobbins and a pillow to go with them varied, depending on  
the style, scale and dimensions of lace being made - for speed,  comfort and 
convenience (no spangles on laces that require sewings,  for example), and 
to suit the environment (hooded bobbins being an  example).
 
The lace pillow described by Susan is not facilitating the type of  lace 
being made.  Today's lacemakers need to learn more about our  history.  There 
is very little that has not been "figured out" by  lacemakers who came 
before us.  Lace organizations probably have the  Deutscher Kloppelverband book 
- 
for members to borrow.  Please - start  learning.  Young people, according 
to one of my  museum-employed friends, think they are inventing lace!  We 
owe it to  them to be able to discuss and demonstrate the basic whys and the 
hows  of lacemaking.  The whys come from history and from very poor people 
who  originally made lace for a living.
 
In regard to this subject, there used to be a photo of my miniature  blue 
bobbin lace roller pillow on the Lace Fairy site.  It  measures 5 1/2" wide 
by 4" deep, with an inset roller.  My  lacemaker/engineer friend made this 
pillow, and spangled bobbins are  fashioned from fancy Japanese toothpicks.  
There is a tiny pricking,  and 3/8" wide spider-motif insertion lace coming 
off the tiny roller, and  thread wound on the tiny bobbins.   BUT - Ilona 
made the lace  using a conventional suitable pillow and conventional bobbins.  
Then,  transferred threads from the standard bobbins to the mini-bobbins.  
Please  think about this - if you are into creating mini-laces.
 
We have seen a lot of small "traveling" bobbin lace pillows in recent  
decades.  But, this observer has noticed they really do not seem to be  
comfortable for a serious lacemaker to use for very long, and give the  wrong 
impression of how quantities of lace is made.  We have  been enchanted with the 
genius of the makers of these pillows, but function  should be paramount, and 
a suitable place to sit and make lace goes along with  this recommendation.
 
After 20+ years, I hope our long-term Arachne members have  learned a lot 
from free and thoughtful information given here.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 
-
 
In a message dated 3/11/2016 9:56:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Thank  you Adele, Alice & Gon!  These are great ideas to help avoid a  
gathered footside.  I just knew there had to be some clever techniques  that I 
hadn't thought of.  My roller is only about 3" in diameter so I  don't have a 
lot of space to work with before I must turn the roll.  Of  course this is 
exacerbated by my long Iris pins!  A friend suggested that  I look for 
sequin pins (much shorter) so I can push them down flush with the  roll.  I can 
hardly wait to try the edging again while employing all  these ideas!  Many 
thanks again for sharing your "tricks of the  trade".  My new edging is 
Spanish fans & I'm working on a cookie  pillow.  Right now I have lots of 
opportunities to demo lace while my  husband recuperates.  Sincerely, Susan 
Hottle, 
Palm Beach Gardens, FL USA  

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Re: [lace] Bobbin lace in Celtic nations?

[Jeriames]

Dear Sally,
 
Do you belong to any local lace guild?  Do they have a  lending library, or 
helpful local members
 
It is amazing that you cannot find information.  Have you looked  at the 
IOLI website's library listings?  Books are available for  borrowing, which is 
one of the valuable benefits of membership.  Many have  donated books (and 
videos), making it easy for American lacemakers to study  in the comfort of 
their homes.  
 
http://www.internationalorganizationoflace.org/Library/library.html  
 
Select the Bobbin Lace option.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
- 
 
In a message dated 3/11/2016 4:30:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dansing...@gmail.com writes:

Hello  all,

In 2 months I will be demonstrating bobbin lace at a Celtic  Festival. Most
of the festival involves music and dance, but the organizers  wanted some
fiber arts too, so here I go.

I'd like to find some  information about bobbin lace specifically in the
Celtic nations  (officially: Ireland, Wales, Scotland, Isle of Man, Brittany
[northwest  corner of France], and Cornwall, and some lists also include
Galicia in  northern Spain). Can someone recommend a book or other source of
such  information? All I've found online is about Ireland, and not very much
of  that.

Thank you,
Sally

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[lace] Research: Textiles in America 1650-1870 / Dictionary of Needlework 1885

[Jeriames]

This is for our lace members who may volunteer in historic house museums or 
 wish to furnish their personal homes (built before 1870) with  antique 
textiles.  Belong to a local historical society?  This is  a recommended book 
donation, if they do not have it.
 
Florence M. Montgomery's - Textiles in America 1650-1870 - a dictionary  
based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, 
American  merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books 
with 
original  swatches of cloth.  Excellent period illustrations and modern  
photography.
 
A Winterthur Museum book, originally published in 1984, and now available  
in an updated version.  Has a new foreword - by Winterthur's  textile 
curator - Linda Eaton.  

Chapters:  Furnishing practices in England and America,  Bed Hangings, 
Window Curtains, Upholstery, Textiles for the Period Room in  America, 
Dictionary (about 240 pages), Bibliography.

 
Hardcover, 412 pages (lots of photos), retail price $55.
 
Some forms of lace and related techniques were used to furnish homes of the 
 past.  If you are known in your community as a lace expert, you may be  
asked for assistance (as I was in the 1990's).  For that reason, I am  
recommending this re-issued book.  (I have the 1984 edition.)   The dictionary 
provides the - now - unfamiliar textiles of the past and how  they were used.  
This is accurate information when historic background  information and/or 
restorations are necessary.  
 
_http://www.winterthurstore.com/product/410721/Textiles-in-America%3A--1650-
1870.html?cid=117_ 
(http://www.winterthurstore.com/product/410721/Textiles-in-America:--1650-1870.html?cid=117)
 
 
After looking at this site, please go to the address _www.winterthur.org/_ 
(http://www.winterthur.org/)  for information  about this remarkable museum 
and garden created by the late Henry  Francis du Pont - in Delaware (between 
Philadelphia and Washington  DC).  It somewhat reminds of National Trust 
properties in Great Britain,  but was purpose-built to enclose rescued rooms 
and  furnishings from the early years of America - 175 rooms, including  many 
that were threatened with demolition in the first half 20th  C.  Diverse 
educational programs offered.  Touring  along the East Coast of America?  This 
is a must-visit all-day  experience!
 
---
The second recommended research hardback book is by Sophia  Frances Anne 
Caulfeild & Blanche C. Saward - The Dictionary of  Needlework.  First 
published in the 1880's, it is my go-to book for looking  up definitions of 
many old 
terms.  This is quite informative about lace and  embroidery, for any 
scholar who does research in our field.  A huge  reprint of 528 pages was 
published as a facsimile in 1989 by Blaketon Hall  Ltd., Exeter, England, and 
priced 35 pounds; I paid $28 for a used  copy. 
 
There was a 1972 Dover reprint in two soft cover volumes re-titled  
Encyclopedia of Victorian Needlework.  Vol. 1 covers A-L, 330 pages; Vol. 2  
covers 
M-Z and continues to page 697, ISBN 0-486-22800-2 and  0-486-22801-0.  
These came to me as a used set and have been  given to another lace researcher. 
 
 
A review was sent to _Lace@Arachne_ (mailto:Lace@Arachne)  on 12/29/04, but 
cannot be  found in the Arachne archives!  Fortunately, paper copies are 
made  of most out-going mail.  But, for how much longer?  I am nearing  age 
80, and if you are a researcher, you may not know yet that there are a  lot of 
educational articles in our Archives you may need in future  years.  You 
are invited to set aside some time to see what is  filed under my name, 
because I know I wrote close to 3,000 entries in  20 years, and there are half 
that number in the archive.  
 
This dictionary covering years before 1900 has been  indispensable to me 
when confronted with questions that lace-specific books  do not provide.  Many 
out-of-print copies are available from suppliers you  will find on the 
internet.  Be aware that the stupendous book by Caulfeild  and Saward was 
originally offered in 6 smaller volumes.  I  recommend the 1989 edition I use.  
My 
current project of going  through and re-packing nearly 150 boxes of 
ephemera, yielded a  wonderful New York Times Magazine article about this book 
by 
Russell Lynes,  dated June 11, 1972, page 56 (which you may be able to find 
on-line).   Caulfeild and Saward dedicated this book to Princess Louise, a 
daughter of  Queen Victoria.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] From Gold Thread to Gold Lace, Gil Dye

[Jeriames]

Very recently, Gil Dye sent me a pdf of a talk she presented at The School  
of Historical Dress in London.  She was in the company of a number of very  
well-known museum textile scholars (also speakers), which is  delightful to 
know.  I must add that having one of the members of our  lace community 
invited to speak at this study day really is something to  celebrate!  
 
Gil's talk featured her study of 17th C. gold (and silver) laces,  plus the 
lace she reconstructed from remains found inside a seam of a gown  that was 
featured in Volume 2  of  "Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress  Patterns", 
which was edited by Susan North and Jenny Tiramani in 2012.   Perhaps you will 
remember that X-rays were taken of a mulberry  velvet gown (from the Isham 
collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum),  yielding interesting 
details.  I wrote a  book review of Book  Two in 2013.  If you purchased it ...
 
Or ... if you have taken classes where Gil has  taught reconstruction of 
this period's gold and silver laces ...
 
You might like to read Gil's Blog, where she has generously  provided her 
entire talk:  From Gold Thread to Gold Lace.
 
If you plan further study of this period's laces, this will be important  
background information for you.
---
Here is Gil's permission:
 
I have no plans to publish in a bulletin at the moment, but it is now on my 
 website: 
https://earlylace.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/gold-thread-to-gold-lace.pdf and  
I would be very happy for you to put the link on Arachne
 
Jeri continues:  If you wish to read our  Arachne correspondence, put the 
book title in the Arachne  archive's search box, or you may go directly to my 
Arachne book review  at:
 
_http://www.mail-archive.com/lace%40arachne.com/msg43120.html_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg43120.html) 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Fascinating Bobbin Lace - Facsimile of 1561 book

[Jeriames]

Everyone:  This claims to be the 1st book printed in the  German language 
about bobbin lace.
 
You might check to see if your national lace organizations have this in  
their libraries.  If not, perhaps a small lace group could pool their  
financial resources to buy a copy for their national lace organization?   Books 
like this will be very costly to purchase in a few years, given the new  
technology that is replacing them.  This is a call to action!!!Get 
important 
books into your permanent reference libraries, in their  original 
format!!!
 
About 20 years ago, I did research about inter-library loans, which  are 
often used by students -  for members of Arachne.  Loans are  available in 
most countries (including Anna's Australia) via  university and local 
libraries, but countries may use another name to  describe them.  Sometimes, a 
fee is 
imposed.  Sometimes, you must read  a rare book at the library.  
 
This was published by Paul Haupt Berne, and printed in Switzerland in  
1986, ISBN 3-258-03610-1.  I remember buying my set in St. Gallen,  
Switzerland, 
where there is a wonderful museum collection of laces and very fine  
embroideries.
 
Anyone interested in the earliest history of bobbin lace should be  
familiar with this boxed set of 3.  One, an exact reproduction of the 1561  
original, one in German/French/English - translated by Claire Burkhard for use  
in 
the 20th C., and the third is actually a folio of diagrams/patterns.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 2/2/2016 6:44:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
l...@binnie.id.au writes:

I'm  after a book which is no longer in print and my Guild library does 
not  have a copy of it.

Does anyone out there know where I can find a copy  of it.

The book is 'Fascinating Lace' by Claire Burkhard 1986. ISNB is  
9783258036106.

I've already done a Google search.

I want to  read the book not necessarily purchase it. If it is in a 
library, that  could be a help, depending on the location, I may be able 
to visit said  library and read it there.

Anna in a hot and sunny  Sydney

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[lace] Golden Hands Publications for Today's Golden Hands

[Jeriames]

(There are a lot of quotation marks around the publication name in this
review.   I do not know how they will show up on all the receiving  devices of
today.  My original of this article, for a local  lace newsletter, showed
"Golden Hands" as italicized and in bold print,  features Arachne's equipment
does not handle.  Please let us know if  this is coming to you with a lot
of extra confusing characters.)


"Golden Hands" is an apt name for a series of  1970s publications
originating in the UK.  Some of our best  US and UK lace and embroidery
teachers
began to develop their  skills in these years.


One of the Arachne members in the UK wrote privately asking about  "Golden
Hands".  Whom do you think would have them, and within reach?

If you happen upon any of these 1970s weekly publications, look to see  if
they have projects suitable for teaching young people.  There are  sometimes
projects for the quite young on the back covers.  By now, "Golden  Hands"
parts are probably being donated to rummage sales, or you may  find them in
vintage merchandise offerings.  They are periodically offered  on eBay, and a
search will bring up pictures of covers, etc.

Once all 7 binders containing these were down off the top shelf in my
library, and before re-shelving, I thought it might be nice to have a re-look
at
 all crafts presented, and think about any present and future impact of
"Golden Hands".

1.  Design:  All the icon artwork (they called them Key symbols),
including the "Golden Hands" logo of hands threading a needle, are  appealing.
And,
the 1970s projects have, generally, stood the test of  time - many being
suitable for use in 2016, if you adjust colors.

2.  Historic Collector's Pieces appeared in most  issues:  Part 1 presented
the 16' x 6' petit point 1600-1615  Bradford Table Carpet (collection of
the V and A Museum).   A decade later, I had the good fortune to begin to see
various  outstanding textile items that had been featured in "Golden  Hands"
during embroidery tours of the UK, and was taken on a private
run-around-the-museum to see this item by the (then) well-known  V and A staff
members,
Joan Edwards and Thomasina Beck.  They  preceded scholars you know today,
like Santina Levey and Clare Browne,  and they authored a number of very
highly-regarded 20th Century  textile-related books.

3.  Advertising:  There is very little.  Only items  that could be
purchased by mail order from the publishing company, usually  occupying only
one
page per issue.  Four items were on the back  cover of the first issue -- a
hand-held movie camera and projector for  filming projects, sewing machine,
adding machine and portable typewriter.   Today (45 years later), many people
have hand-held cell phones that perform  filming, math and texting functions.
 And, sewing machines are quite  different.

4.  Incentive to be creative:  By Part 4, I found myself  stitching the
needlepoint (canvas work) presented on the cover (still in my  textile
collection).  Part 5 began to teach needle-made lace and Part 6 had  wonderful
needle-made lace borders for fabric items - something  timeless that one could
teach today.  By Part 7, we could  learn Macramé.  And so on.  Tatting was i
ntroduced in Part  12.  Bobbin Lace finally appeared in Part 25, featuring the
equipment  required.  Actual instruction progressed in Parts 26, 30, 59,
66, 75.   Parts 62 and 63 had Hairpin crochet.

5.  Publishing details:  In the U.S. "Golden Hands" was  promoted as 75
weekly parts at a cover price of 95 cents.  The first  issue actually
contained
Parts 1 and 2.

(c) Fratelli Fabbri Editori 1966, 1967
(c) Marshall Cavendish Ltd, 1971
Published by Marshall Cavendish Ltd.
Printed in Great Britain

There was a 1972 sequel set called "Golden Hands New Guide" in 14  weekly
parts, at 95 cents:


There were some double-size subsequent monthly issues in  1973 called
"Golden Hands  Monthly Magazine".  They had a cover price of  $1.95.

All these were purchased at a news store in the Greenwich Village
neighborhood of New York City.
---
Permission:  You may print this review to place in your  copies of "Golden
Hands" - for future users, or you may publish it in a local  lace
newsletter.  If in a newsletter, you can illustrate  with the cover of the
first issue
of "Golden Hands", which is easy to  find with a simple computer search.
The first issue has a ball of gold  yarn, spool of gold sewing thread,
scissors, and a thimble on the cover.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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Re: [lace] Blocking silk scarf - Conservation, Newbies

[Jeriames]

Perhaps we should remind that the yarns being used for these bobbin-made  
fashion lace scarves - various combinations of  dyed fibers - were probably 
developed for knitters.   Therefore, I would first suggest a professional on 
this Arachne  list consult a knitter's group to learn how their best 
conservators are  washing and blocking items made from multi-fiber and 
multi-colored yarns.  
 
These yarns are being used by some of our most expert bobbin lace makers (I 
 have their books), but let us face it - the thread combinations are rather 
 new to those of us accustomed to researching 500+ years of traditional 
lace  experience.  It will be conservators 50-100 years from now who will be 
able  to tell the youngest of our Arachne lacemakers what they have 
experienced in  trying to preserve these in their laboratories.  
 
Should we expect "boutique yarns" to last hundreds of  years, when the 
yarns and items made from them are relatively  quickly made?  Dyes have always 
introduced problems.  I would classify  items made from these newly-developed 
yarns as crafts.  Old linen  laces can survive longer than other fibers 
only if kept in a friendly  environment.  They required many focused hours to 
design  and make.  The best surviving linen thread lace is now  considered 
art and treated accordingly.  Cotton, spun from much  shorter fibers, does not 
last as long.
 
I have frequently suggested that it is wise to think about the  finished 
product and how it will be used and cared for before you assemble  all the 
supplies for a lace project.  These suggestions were based on  my study of 
textile conservation and restoration, relevant books, and  museum seminars.  
They are logical.  
 
As do cooks, always wash your hands before you sit down to make lace.   
Wash hands periodically, if your skin is more acidic than normal.  (A  test:  
Do your sewing needles discolor almost immediately?)   Clean hands mean 
cleaner lace that may not need wet cleaning upon  completion.
 
Conservation labs charge a lot of money per hour for an appointment and  
they charge for some of the advice I keep dispensing free on Arachne.  Time  
is money in our modern world.  I have waited for the correspondence on this  
subject to almost complete, to be time-efficient, and have spent 5 hours  
composing these few comments.  (Someone might read public memos  decades from 
now, so I keep refining my meanings for them before Send Now is  chosen.)
 
Procter and Gamble's Orvus soap is used by museum conservators and  
restorers as the cleaning agent for cotton and linen, because it is  
alkaline-based.  These fibers absorb a lot of acids from the  environment and 
how they are 
stored.  Orvus infuses the fibers with  alkaline - which is healthy to have 
neutralizing  residual acids in plant-based cotton and linen fibers.  You 
do  not have to rinse it out completely - it can slightly off-set new acids  
attacking the fibers.  But, do rinse most of Orvus out of cotton and  linen.
 
Go to our Archives and search ORVUS:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html 
 
Or go directly to:
 
_http://www.mail-archive.com/lace%40arachne.com/msg27444.html_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg27444.html) 
 
Or - better yet - my Cleaning & Restoration memo of 20  years ago, donated 
to The Honiton Lace Shop site.  The shop no longer  exists, but my text is 
very clear. **Newbies** -  PLEASE  PRINT THIS, AND SAVE.  I am getting old, 
and will not be around  forever to keep giving wet cleaning advice and 
explanations of  polluted air and water, gravity, bleach, starch, etc. 
 
http://www.honitonlace.com/honitonlace/shop/cleaning2.htm 
 
Since the Honiton article - meant for wedding-type fragile laces - was  
written, I have experimented on silk lace scraps and gone on to use Orvus  for 
old Maltese cream-colored silk laces - without incident.   I plan to try to 
wet clean a piece of silk Nanduti lace (which is less  dense) soon.  When 
dealing with animal-based silk and wool fibers, be  sure to rinse with room 
temperature water until you feel you could  drink the rinse water!  As always, 
at least the final 2  RINSEs should be in distilled or de-ionized water, 
because that is purer  than any water coming into your homes (chemical 
additives and minerals are not  good for textile fibers).  Let the lace sit in 
the 
final 2 rinses for  at least 15 minutes each.  Well-washed wool will have 
the lanolin  removed.  This will remove "food" for critters, like moths.  It  
will also remove water-shedding properties in woolen items meant to be worn  
in harsh weather. 
 
I use a dehumidifier in the cellar to banish dampness.   The bucket in 
which water collects is well-cleaned, wiped  down with white vinegar, and then 
the resulting distilled water is OK by my  standards.
 
There is a new steam iron that specifies distilled water in the fine  print 
- I bought one at a Quilt Show 2 years ago.  If you steam press  lace, you 

[lace] Arachne Lurker's Complaints

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers,
 
This memo came in over the weekend, and I responded directly to  the author 
in Australia.  Upon further thought, it occurred to me that  maybe I should 
find out from the remainder of our membership if they think I  have an 
"attitude", since I am definitely the one who puts the Archive address  in many 
posts!  My comments (shortened for this list) are below this  posting, and I 
have trimmed the writer's name, because she is a lurker:

In a message dated 1/15/2016
 
"I am a lurker to Arachne and do find reading my emails very  informative, 
it is lovely to see how helpful and friendly lace makers  are!!

"However, some recent emails that come through have a very negative  and 
unproductive attitude to sharing information.

"With this current  attitude I don't feel like making an enquiry.

"This is my current opinion  and hopefully the attitude changes.

"Also another point to consider, I  didn't know how to send an email to the 
group for over 6 months, so maybe a  politely written email every few 
months on the correct email address, how to  trim posts and how to access the 
illusive ARCHIVES would be helpful and greatly  appreciated."
---
Jeri's condensed version of correspondence with the lurker:
 
1.  Since attitude was mentioned 3 times in connection with sharing of  
information, and because I wrote to the lurker for a clarification of the  
problem, I know that she primarily objects to being referred to our  Archives.  
This is something I often do, and usually I give the complete  Archive 
address. She wants questions re-answered.
 
Some of our correspondents do not understand how many hours some of us  
spend helping others.  If you search the Archives by any of our names,  you 
will see that a lot of accumulated information is available from teachers,  
thread experts, authors, historians, museum personnel, etc.  Archive  
information is also filed by subject(s).  A lot of search options are  possible 
for 
some memos.  Additionally, though you see the publicly  available 
correspondence, perhaps everyone needs to be reminded there  are a lot of 
private 
personal letters going out, as well.
 
We have an Archive so related comprehensive information can be saved and  
used.  **We have members who do not want to read the same information  over 
and over.**  Personally, I know many members skip my memos  altogether 
because they tend to be long on details.  They can be shorter if  the Archive 
is 
recommended.  
 
One of my personal missions is to (by example) **teach people how to  do 
research and how to think constructively/creatively** so they can function  
better at this time in history and in the future.  Knowing how to  do research 
will become more and more critical in years ahead.   It presently looks 
like there will be less lace-knowledgeable people  (per capita) to consult in 
the years ahead. 
 
2.  Managing replies:  When we first started 20+ years ago, there  were 
some countries where users were charged by-the-memo, not by a time period  (per 
month).  Australia may have been one of them.  I cannot  remember.  As a 
consequence, members can opt to receive (a) Each  original message, or (b) the 
Digest - a string of unrelated messages  that may have been posted over 
several days before subscribers receive  it.  The Digest form can be confusing 
to read if it contains a lot of  repetitions because of several replies to a 
subject.  That explains  why Digest readers complained about repetitions.  
That is why we  are reminded by our Web mistress to "trim" away unnecessary 
already  said sentences and to "trim" the 4 lines of administrative  
information.
 
3.  We are all volunteers when we reply to Arachne.  Arachne is  not a 
business, or financed by one.  A private person provides the  free-to-us 
server. 
 Our volunteer Web mistress has many demands on her  time.  She rarely 
intrudes.  If someone is insulting or sending  commercial advertising, she 
steps 
in.  We appreciate her time  and expertise.
 
We all need to know:
 
Did other members have problems with learning to use  Arachne?  
 
Were you guided through the process by fellow lacemakers at the  beginning? 
  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] 17th century lace

[Jeriames]

Dear Elizabeth,
 
The recent series of books by Gil Dye might be helpful to you - they cover  
the Elizabethan and Stuart periods.  There is also the wonderful book "In  
Fine Style".   I reviewed them on Arachne, but you might like to see  the 
reviews as they appeared in the New England Lace Group's web site and  
newsletter, with color photos of book covers.  Book Reviews  are offered in 
menu on 
the left side at:
 
_www.nelg.us_ (http://www.nelg.us) 
 
I'm mentioning "In Fine Style" because sitters are shown in front  of fancy 
draperies and sometimes other textile furnishings.  The  exhibition in the 
Queen's Gallery - London covered by this book was  extensively discussed on 
Arachne because costume items appearing in portraits  (including lace) were 
shown.  I have yet to acquire a more beautiful  book.
 
Any art or costume book of the period will give you similar images.   The 
NELG review of Gil Dye's most recent book "Insertions and Borders -  16th and 
17th Century Lace - Book 4", published by Cleveden Press (Jean Leader),  
2015, ISBN 978-0-9553223-6-5 - includes additional official  historical 
computer addresses (not in the Arachne review) where you  can see much more.  A 
treasure trove for those interested in this  period in history.  If this is 
your passion, I highly  recommend you print and save this NELG review with any 
books you own on  this subject!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

In a message dated 1/16/2016 12:35:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
elizabeth.p...@tesco.net writes:
 
Dear Arachnes,
 
I have recently received the transcript of an English will from  1630.
Elizabeth Lougher was a widow, whose husband,
Robert, died in  1624.  They had at least
one daughter and five  grandchildren.

Amongst the bequests (original spelling)  were:
 
A petticoat with Philip and cheney and
with .. coloured lace and the  feather bed and boulster on which I lye
 
A paire of curtaines and a vallance of
greene layce,

A  paire of red and greene layce cushens
and valance

A lot of the will  deals with furnishing textiles, particularly bed linen,
pillows  etc.

Can anyone give me a clue as to what kind of lace might  be
referred to?  I am especially intrigued by the mention of coloured  lace.

Liz Pass in Poole, Dorset 

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Re: [lace] Gutermann thread enquiry - washing

[Jeriames]

In a message dated 1/13/2016 10:37:50 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jocelyn.froe...@gmail.com writes:

I have a  question about silk threads and washability? A lace teacher 
mentioned silk  doesn't do well if it gets wet, and once ruined finished lace 
and 
many hours  of work. That may have changed with new threads? 
Jocelyn in Winnipeg  Canada


Dear Jocelyn,  Please do not speed read this memo on washing  silk.
 
Suggested advice:  Read and digest in your brain what those of us  who have 
handled a lot of lace have to say about threads.  The average  age of our 
lace community is growing older, and the time will come  when less and less 
experts volunteer to dispense free information!  Many of  you are not 
learning about threads in home economics classes any more.
 
The activity that ages all textiles more than wearing them is washing  or 
dry cleaning.  Therefore, I have written a number of memos that are in  the 
Arachne archives about the precautions to take to keep lace clean and as  
close as possible to its original condition.  One is to take it separately  to 
an event, and put it on there.  A good suggestion for a  fragile veil or a 
shawl that will be draped over shoulders.  They must  never be near an 
automobile's seat belt or materials like Velcro.
 
If handmade lace is permanently attached to a colored garment and  you wish 
to clean it, it might be wise to deconstruct a yoke or sleeve or  whatever 
for wet cleaning.  Make a "pattern" of the shapes to which it must  be 
blocked when reconstructed.  Today's threads are often a mixture of  fibers.  
We 
would not normally clean the different fibers (silk, cotton,  linen, wool, 
synthetics) in the same ways!  Think, before you leap  into a thread 
commitment.  You can design lace elements to be easily  removed from a garment.
 
With new silk threads, I recommend you make a shape about 6" square, wash  
the way you think it will be washed in the future, and see what  happens as 
it dries.  If it is an edging, it will give you sewing  practice, and you 
can see what happens to the fabric as well as the  lace.  
 
Do you remember my review of Gil Dye's latest book in mid-2015:  Insertions 
and Borders - 16th and 17th C. Lace - Book 4 ?  Attention was  called to 
how she solved a problem - thread did not fill spaces, as seen on the  
original antique lace.  Her solution was to soak her sample in warm  water, 
which 
plumped up threads.  My reviewer's note was that the water be  distilled or 
de-ionized.  I suggested this would be a good subject to  discuss further at 
individual lace meetings throughout the world and on this  Arachne 
discussion site.  We know program chairmen are always looking  for meeting 
subjects.  
Did anything come of it?
 
If our Arachne members are not going to read what I write, and think  about 
the nuggets of valuable information in book reviews, why should I continue  
to try to "save lace" through this communication medium  On  Arachne, 
there is unlimited space for book reviews and  conservation/restoration 
advice.  They do not have to fit a 100-word  limitation, or whatever, imposed 
by 
lace bulletin  editors.   
 
Conservation/restoration begins before you make something - ask all the  
pertinent questions of yourself before you begin designing,  You do not  have 
the "advantage" of lacemakers of old, who made the same laces  
year-after-year, using the same threads and techniques.  Your time is  precious.
 
Since this subject is an off-shoot of thread questions from Karen in Malta  
today, I will add:  There is quite a bit of old creamy silk Maltese lace  
here that I have washed.  However, before ever washing any old lace, I  
practiced a long time on "scraps" to see what would happen.  I have not  tried 
to 
wash black Maltese lace, because we all know black dyes were  problematic. 
Water weight/gravity would cause them to self-destruct.  A  study of old 
Maltese lace would reveal that it became so marketable that it was  made in 
many countries, explaining why so much is available on  eBay.  Collectors need 
to know such things.  It explains why the  texture of this type of silk lace 
varies.
 
Experience:  In the 1960s I made Summer dresses to wear to work  (before 
offices were air conditioned), using colored silk Shantungs from  Italy.  I 
always pre-washed it and the silk lining material before cutting  out the 
dresses so they could be washed by hand at home.  Some of the  sizing put in 
the 
fabrics was removed by water, making it a bit more difficult  to cut out 
the material.  The built-up odor of dry cleaning fluid was  objectionable.  I 
was able to avoid odor and a lot of  expense in this way.  Also, rings where 
water  might stain this fabric were very likely because of the 
manufacturers'  sizing.  
 
However - in the 2000's at a quilt show I bought magenta silk Shantung from 
 India, and put it in a basin of cool water.  This material bled and bled  
and bled.  Every time the basin was 

[lace] Please don't use the lace@dont.panix address!

[Jeriames]

All Members, please note:
 
When you send email to the _lace@dont_ (mailto:lace@dont)   panix.com 
address, it does not go into the Arachne archives!  I received 2  of the 
letters 
about the Christmas Ornament Exchange, both using  panix.  
 
These slip ups remind me that my postings are not being read.   Have 
written about this on a regular basis, reminding people to write to 
_lace@arachne.com_ (mailto:lace@arachne.com)Please  focus on having an 
archive that 
can be searched years from now - by  people not yet alive.
 
Our unique lace history needs to be documented and  preserved.  It is 
unfortunate that many do not realize the importance  of presenting people in 
the 
future with all the things we did to "save"  lace.   They will surely be 
delighted to find lace  ornaments tucked away in a safe place with some 
documentation, the  same way we are thrilled today, when we unexpectedly find 
lace  
treasures from the past.  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
 
 
In a message dated 12/30/2015 6:42:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
bertra...@gmail.com writes:

Janet,  Jenny and I would like to thank all who joined in the Christmas 
Ornament  Exchange this year. It is a special year as it is the anniversary of 
Arachne  as well. 
We have received pictures of almost all ornaments and most  everyone have 
received theirs. There is a problem with some which the partners  have no 
control over. All we can do is hope they are finally delivered by the  postal 
service. 
Please look at Jenny's website. She has done a fantastic  job of displaying 
them. 
Next year, please consider joining us. This year  we had a couple brand new 
lace makers and several who had never joined  before.  We just hope you all 
enjoyed the exchange as much as we have.  
Have a blessed and prosperous New Year. 
Janet in East Yorkshire   UK
Jenny In Australia 
Sallie in WY USA

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[lace] Christmas Ornaments and Decorating for One

[Jeriames]

For those lacemakers who are alone today, Merry Christmas:   

Our lace community has become rather quiet, and so this moment to thank a  
couple of our members.
 
In reading the joyful messages from recipients of 2015's  Christmas 
ornament exchange, it occurred to me I must acknowledge -  publicly - the 
American 
lacemaker  in a western state who sent me 3  Romanian point angels for my 
ceiling-high tree.  She might not wish public  recognition, but she has been 
most generous of time and skills.  And so,  thanks to her for making 
Christmas in Maine extra special this  year.  
 
Actually, 4 angel trees are up, and when I sit in the great  room, the 
Romanian point angels are in prominent positions on  the ceiling-high tree - 
all 
angels (hundreds) from around the world, no  lights, no garlands, no 
icicles.  Just angels, and a 3-D  Norwegian Hardanger embroidered star on top.  
The star is in  a double-sided technique learned more than 4 decades ago from 
another  Arachne member.  She will be reading this on Long Island, and 
realize how  enduring her teaching of embroidery to Manhattan Chapter members 
of  
The Embroiderers' Guild of America has been!
 
Under the tree on a plain dark green skirt, in lieu of gifts, are 4  
angel-theme music boxes, some tiny vignettes, and a collection  of embroidered 
boxes.  I'll try to describe the 3" square 2"  high filet (lacis) box.  A box 
shape was made of firm metal wire  (about the firmness of wire garment 
hangers that come from dry  cleaners).  Needs to be treated to avoid rust.  It 
has 
been  completely over-cast with matching thread after the lace panels were  
attached.  The bottom of the box has a walking dog image!   The lid opens, 
and the top corners have added knotted  thread balls (the kind you often see 
on Italian linens and  find among tassel instructions).  From a vintage 
linens  shop.
 
If you are newly-alone, it is important to make your own happiness and  
develop unique ways to celebrate holidays.  There is never, here,  piles of 
gifts and more than 2 guests.  I send you this as a  suggestion for your 
Christmas tree next year - make and arrange beautiful  textile boxes around 
your 
tree.  It is quite effective and lasting.   You will be able to store 
ornaments in the boxes the rest of the  year.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Lace book on project Gutenberg, author Goldenberg

[Jeriames]

Added to the subject line:  "author Goldenberg".  When this  subject was 
raised by Liz in Missouri in late November, I wrote to her privately  to ask 
the name of the book, since it was not in the original Arachne  
correspondence copy I received.
 
If others are interested, the book is "Lace Its Origin and History" by  
Samuel L. Goldenberg, with a 1904 copyright in author's name.
 
My book came from Tess as a gift for the lace library here.  She would  
have scanned it for the Arizona site before it became mine.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 12/2/2015 4:44:57 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
helene3...@gmail.com writes:

Tess,

I just clicked on the link you supplied:   http://www.cs.arizona.edu,
There is no reference to lace on this page.  Could you please supply
some further instructions.

Thank  you,

Helene Ulrich
I thought I'd already looked at all the lace books on Project Gutenberg,  
however, today I ran across this one on the origin of lace and found it  
interesting. It has a lot of photos of examples of different kinds of  lace.


https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38973/38973-h/38973-h.htm


Liz  R in Missouri USA

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[lace] St. Catherine's Day - Nov. 25th

[Jeriames]

There is no mention of any observances of St. Catherine's Day, Nov. 25th,  
on Arachne yet.  The Lace Guild in the UK places their symbol of  a wheel of 
torture somewhere on the covers of every quarterly "Lace"  bulletin.  It is 
a reminder that she was tortured in this way.   She is the patron saint of 
lacemakers.
 
Our newest members may learn about her by accessing her name in  our 
archives, and you may also search for a recipe of Cattern's cake,  embedded in 
some of our old correspondence.  On this day,  it was a tradition to serve this 
cake, with tea, to  lacemakers in some areas of the U.K.
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html 
 
Just a thankful reminder that we stand on the shoulders of lacemakers  who 
came before us.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

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[lace] Following in the Footsteps of Mary Radcliffe

[Jeriames]

Special attention to Laurie Waters, if someone can alert her  directly.
 
Repliers:  Please put above title as the subject so I'll know it is  from 
one of our members, if you reply directly to me.  And, please reply  directly 
to me to avoid cluttering in-boxes of the many Arachne  members not 
interested.
 
There are 3 very interesting historical accounts of 1600s items  that will 
be in the December 8th Terry Taylor textiles and costumes auction  in 
London.  The notice came to me directly from the auction house.   Printed, it 
comes to 9 pages.  It is specific write ups of these 3  items with great photos 
(one about lovely shoes, another about King  Charles I's lace collar 
purported to have been worn when he was beheaded, the  last about one of those 
elaborately embroidered gloves with wide cuff) that some  would like to read.
 
This is in text that cannot be forwarded directly to Arachne, and  though I 
could get into the Taylor Auction website, I could not figure out how  you 
could access the write-up directly.
 
This will be of interest to people like Gil Dye, who have a high interest  
in historical laces of this period.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Mounting finished lace - Summary

[Jeriames]

Sally  wrote:   Is there a book out there on how to mount finished  lace?  
For a longer trim, or a complex shape, what are my options? Is  iron-on 
backing an option, or will I be booed and hissed out of the global  guild?I 
really don't want to spend the same amount of time sewing  as I did making 
the lace! 
 
We are not  Lace Police.  We value your completed laces, and consider them 
to be future  heirlooms.  



Some of the info below has been referenced in other memos, but this tells  
how to get copies in the U.S. from libraries.  Also, I want to  mention it 
is never a good idea to use adhesives, and we've written a lot  about them 
that is in the archives of Arachne.
 
Adhesives do not pass the long-term test.  They are too permanent and  
cannot be reversed.  They transfer chemicals to a textile that  can discolor or 
turn ugly brittle.  They off-gas to  other textiles stored next to them.  
Whenever possible, try hand  stitching.  That way, if a safe backing wears 
out, the lace  can be recycled for many years to come.  Collectors 100 years 
from now  will find very few laces from the 21st C.  Yours could be a future  
treasure, regardless of what you think of it.  Sewing thread the color  of 
the background fabric will be easiest to see and cut away in the  future.  
(We learn this, if we are collectors who want to wet wash and  recycle!)
 
I took the expensive trips to museum conservation and restoration  classes 
on vacation time and have given all of you the best possible  free advice 
for 20 years.  It is up to you to decide how much you  value your laces.  The 
decision about what you will do with new laces  should be made before you 
even begin to make the laces.  You may wish to  search "Adhesives", "Mounting 
Laces" and "Framing Laces" at:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html 
 
It so happens I've had a small  stack of books off the bookcases, thinking 
of writing about this and  related subjects.  Sometimes, you'll find a 
section at the back of an  existing book you have, or buried in amongst the 
texts.  It is easiest, on  the library list of IOLI to go half way down, where 
there is a second listing by  authors' names to find books, or you could check 
the libraries of local lace  guilds in the U.S. to which you belong.
 
One of the basic stitches used  to attach lace to something like a 
handkerchief is the Pin  Stitch.  You could look for that in books you have.  
Whatever you  decide to do, *practice first* with similar materials that you do 
not need to  worry about damaging.  Very important!
 
The Lace Guild, England,  published a handy small book by Kate Riley and 
Pauline McLeod "An  Introduction to Mounting Lace", 2012.  I believe I read 
recently  that this is out-of-print, and not scheduled for reprinting.  No  
longer listed at Our Books and Bobbins at  _www.laceguild.org_ 
(http://www.laceguild.org) 
 
Joyce Dorsett:  From Start  to Finish - A Fresh approach to mounting lace, 
1999
 
Gilian Dye:  Finishing and  Mounting Lace, 1998
 
Look closely at the photos in  books like
Elizabeth Kurella:   Anybody Can Mend Lace and Linens, 2001
Elizabeth Kurella:  Guide  to Lace and Linens, 1998
 
Enlarge photos of laces you see on the internet, so you can see how they  
have been mounted.
 
At your public library,  look for old Home Economics sewing books and books 
about the  quilting technique of applique for ideas of what will work for 
you.   American schools removed Home Economics from the curriculum many years 
 ago, so you really need to learn some hand sewing if you wish to show your 
laces  to best advantage.  This would be a very good local lace  meeting 
program.  You'll even learn how to hem some clothing in the  process.  I found 
Conservation/Restoration classes have helped me to keep  household textiles 
in good shape.  It is expensive to replace them too  often. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Following in the Footsteps of Mary Radcliffe

[Jeriames]

Thank you Bev for the address you have given.  However, it is not the  9 
page article devoted to the 3 items I wrote about.  This article has  
portraits of Mary Radcliffe and Charles the I, and a lot of extra info.   That 
is 
why I wrote offering to forward it to our scholars.
 
Bev, I will forward it separately to you, so you will see why it is of more 
 value to a few of our members.  It cannot be on Arachne because of  
special-sized and colored type, italics, and photographs.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
In a message dated 11/22/2015 10:54:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
walker.b...@gmail.com writes:
 
Hello everyone and thank you Jeri  


The Kerry Taylor auction catalogue Passion for Fashion (8th Dec) can be  
accessed here:
http://kerrytaylorauctions.com/Catalog/?id=424


Not sure for how long, maybe only until the auction is over.
I clicked the link to the virtual edition, the glove is near the  
beginning, the Milanese lace collar and the elaborate shoes on the pages  
directly 
following.
Quite a bit of other costume lace actually (e.g. a pretty Irish crochet  
gown c. 1910, a sprigged and embroidered tulle dress c. 1820). I haven't  
looked at every page yet, so much to see, beautiful eye candy throughout!

On Sun, Nov 22, 2015 at 5:05 AM, <_Jeriames@aol.com_ 
(mailto:jeria...@aol.com) > wrote:

.
There  are 3 very interesting historical accounts of 1600s items  that  will
be in the December 8th Terry Taylor textiles and costumes  auction  in
London.  The notice came to me directly from the  auction house.   Printed, 
it
comes to 9 pages.  It is  specific write ups of these 3  items with great 
photos
(one about  lovely shoes, another about King  Charles I's lace collar
purported  to have been worn when he was beheaded, the  last about one of  
those
elaborately embroidered gloves with wide cuff) that some   would like to 
read.



-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful  Vancouver Island, west coast of 
 Canada

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[lace] Time for lacemaking

[Jeriames]

Lyn wrote about making time for lace in the morning before the rest of the  
household is up and about.
 
For those of you who have many obligations, I thought I'd share what I did  
to make time for lace and embroidery during difficult years.
 
It was 40 years ago now, and I had a new husband who was  determined to 
monopolize my time.  (Why didn't I see it in advance?)   I moved out of a 
convenient NYC apartment, because he insisted on  living a 2-hour commute away 
from my work.  It required 4 different  modes of transportation each way.
 
What to do about lace and embroidery?  From age 17 to my  mid-30s (and 
again after the marriage ended), I worked day and night  (2 different jobs).  
It 
was possible to train myself to get along on less  sleep.  This was good 
preparation for a couple years of marriage.  I got up at 3 am, went to another 
room to work with  threads for an  hour, and skipped breakfast.  I carried 
needlework books to read  on the train.  Maybe these suggestions will work 
for some of  you.  Especially finding time to read about lace.  Now 77, I can 
 say that the lack of sleep for many years did not adversely affect  me. 
 
Four hours of sleep and an occasional nap are adequate to this day.   Not 
for everyone; maybe for some.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Fashion and Virtue: Texile Patterns and the Print Revolution 1520-1620

[Jeriames]

Devon has had problems posting to Arachne today.  Now, I am trying for  
her, but it seems that AOL may have me locked out, too.  Hope this reaches  our 
members!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
  

 From: dmt11h...@aol.com
To: jeria...@aol.com
Sent: 11/3/2015 4:23:16  P.M. Eastern Standard Time
Subj: Fwd: Fashion and Virtue: Texile Patterns  and the Print Revolution 
1520-1620



  

 From: dmt11h...@aol.com
To: lace@arachne.com
Sent: 11/3/2015 12:24:51  P.M. Eastern Standard Time
Subj: Fashion and Virtue: Texile Patterns and  the Print Revolution 
1520-1620


Dear Friends, 
Susan Hottle has been kind enough to draw attention to the new  exhibit 
Fashion and Virtue, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. I  think 
this is a very interesting exhibit. In the 16th and 17th century  printing 
evolved in the direction of printing pattern books for lace and  needlework. 
The 
Metropolitan Museum of Art has an excellent collection of  these early 
pattern books which curator Femke Speelberg has paired with  textiles that show 
the patterns in use. For people who are interested in the  history of lace 
and embroidery this is really a stunning show. In the 1930s  the museum put 
on an exhibition pairing patterns with textile samples, most  of them lace, 
and this entire exhibit appears on one wall as a side light.  These are very 
interesting study cards which are frequently consulted by  early lace 
enthusiasts in order to understand the translation of the  patterns to lace. 
This is an intellectually exciting exhibit in which you have to read  the 
labels to get the entire effect. The textiles were chosen to demonstrate  the 
patterns in the books, so they were not chosen on the basis of being  world 
class textiles, although several of them are quite nice. It is  really 
incredible that she found as many textiles as she did to match  with the 
patterns. My hat is off to her. Some of them are loan objects.  
Details of the exhibit can be found here: 
http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2015/fashion-and-virtue
Of interest to lacemakers there is a 1557 copy of Le Pompe on display.  I 
counted 35 pieces of lace in the exhibit, but many are small samples on  the 
study cards. There is filet, cutwork, burato, needle lace and bobbin  lace. 
Notable among the bobbin laces are a gold lace around a collar, and a  
fascinating piece of bobbin lace that is a tour de force in technique that I  
dealt with in an article in the Bulletin of the International Old Lacers,  
Inc., winter 2007-8. 
There are actually more pieces of lace in this Prints exhibit, than  have 
simultaneously been on display in the museum for quite some time. The  last 
major lace display was in the 1950s and I don't know if there were that  many 
then. Our lace display several years ago in the Ratti Gallery had only  13 
pieces. My husband, who is not a lace enthusiast found the woodblock  carved 
by Durer of a design by da Vinci to be the most interesting thing in  the 
exhibit. According to the curator, it has not been outside of Germany  since 
the 18th century. 
I was lucky to be invited to the opening of the exhibit. After everyone  
else had left, I got the idea to make a video of it with my phone just as a  
memory aid to myself. It has occurred to me that posting this on youtube  
might help some of my fellow lacemakers to decide whether they  want to make 
the expensive and time consuming journey to the exhibit, which  is, after all, 
a Prints exhibit. Unfortunately, the video is of terrible  quality and 
really doesn't capture how interesting the exhibit is if you  carefully read 
the 
labels. About 4 minutes into the video, my husband who  after nearly two 
hours in an exhibit that everyone else had already left,  had been pushed 
beyond his endurance level, and who didn't realize I was  taping, gave me my 
coat check tag and announced he was going to the car.  This certainly gives 
this otherwise very poorly done video some pathos. When  he realized what I was 
doing, he didn't actually leave me. People who know  my husband can see him 
dodging behind a chasuble in the final seconds  of the film. Hope the film 
doesn't put anyone off, since it is an excellent  exhibit. Here is the link.
 
 
https://youtu.be/5sC20kXwa1Y 
Devon

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[lace] Proper Subject Lines are Necessary

[Jeriames]

Everyone:
 
Why does this message have a "Help please" subject?  Why is it  attached to 
a lace ID question?  Going backwards a few days, why didn't the  lace ID 
memo have a more specific Subject line in the first place?  (I have  trimmed 
most of the lace ID New Zealand correspondence away, per  Avital's (Web 
Mistress) requests. 
 
Reminder:  It is important to give a Subject line that will  attract 
attention, and file a memo like this where it can be found in the  future in 
our 
archives.  Also, something like "Help please" is so vague  that it does not 
attract the best experts on Arachne. 
 
Something like  "Lace ID Question" and  "IOLI NJ Metro Chapter  Lace Day 
Nov 7 and 8" would be helpful.  
 
I write this as a member of another local lace group in NJ.  It is  most 
important that publicity be distributed in a truly helpful way for Lace  
people in the New York City area who may be subscribers to Arachne (Metro  
Chapter is one of the closest Lace groups to the city).
 
Will leave it to Metro Chapter to send us a message with a  Subject line 
that will attract attention of people throughout the NYC and  surrounding area.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
 
In a message dated 11/3/2015 11:00:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rmhar...@gmail.com writes:

This  weekend - November 7 and 8 - the Metro Chapter of IOLI will hold its
annual  lace day. It will again be at the Westwood Elks Club on Kinderkamack
Road  in Westwood, NJ, and on Saturday the hours are 10 am to 3 pm. The
public is  welcome and there is no admission fee.  Holly Van Sciver and
Kathie  Kirchner will be vending, and there will also be an  exhibit,
demonstrations, and a children's class.

On Sunday there  will be workshops:  Mayra Petretti will teach a Lepoglava
motif; Pat  Morris will teach techniques in 's Gravenmoer; and Lynda Barber
will teach  a beginners' class and also a Project in a Day class.
Pre-registration is  required and lunch is provided.

Please see the website for additional  information
www.metropolitanchapterioli.orgor email the  president,
Lynda Barber, at lyndal...@att.net.

If you are in the  area we would love to see you there!

Regina Haring
Secretary, Metro  Chapter

On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at  3:38 AM, Barrie  wrote:

> Sorry, here is  the photo of the lace.
>
>  http://tinyurl.com/whatlaceisthis
>
> Julie
> From New  Zealand

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[lace] Scarf Thread Comparisons by Jane Atkinson

[Jeriames]

Dear Jane and all those interested,
 
Thank you, Jane.  This is valuable information to keep in our  archives.  
The Subject: lace-digest V2015 #105 gives no clue as to  subject.  Therefore, 
nearly impossible to look up.
 
But, IT CANNOT BE LOOKED UP!  Mail addressed to _lace@dont.panix.com_ 
(mailto:l...@dont.panix.com)  does NOT go to  our Arachne archives, Jane!!!  
 
Therefore, Avital (Webmistress), I have not trimmed Jane's message (below), 
 and am resending so it can be found by Jane's name and also by subject in 
the  future.
 
I recommend that those who have the following publications print a copy of  
this memo and the original one from Jsyzygy, and insert in the books.  It  
may come in handy in the future, even though you do not realize it today:
 
1.  Brigitte Bellon's "Kloppelmuster fur Schals und Tischlaufer" or  
similar by her
2.  Jane Atkinson's "Contemporary Lace for You"
3.  Brenda Paternoster's "Threads for Lace Comparison..." any  edition
 
It is my wish to keep telling how to save and retrieve valuable  free 
information on Arachne.  Memos about the Panix address have been  sent by me on 
a 
regular basis.  Please!  Remove Panix from your  computers!  Our archives, 
including recently-sent memos are  at:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 10/29/2015 9:22:19 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
j...@contemporarylace.com writes:

Dear  Ladies,

I've been watching the thread on scarf prickings with interest,  since it's
getting very confusing.  If you have access to the Lace  Guild magazine
'Lace', the next issue due out in a couple of days might  help.

Controlling ones own destiny when it comes to thread and pricking  size was
something I addressed in 'Contemporary Lace for You', and have  expanded 
upon
in a new article.  You can see from the contributions to  this debate that
some think the only answer is to get Brenda to test  everything for you - 
but
you can (and really should) do it for  yourself.

One way of getting a ballpark figure for yarn calibration is  to Tex it.  
Tex
is the international system used to find the linear  density (thickness) of
all yarns, of all fibres and plies - it is the  weight in grams of 1000
metres of yarn.  You can find your own by  measuring off 10m of your yarn,
weighing that on sensitive diet scales  (such as Smart Weigh pocket scales)
and multiplying the result by  100.

For my book, I examined and tested all the most useful yarns then  available
for larger-scale lace, calibrating them into several tables at  the back, 
now
available for study on my website,  www.contemporarylace.com.  But neither
Texing nor wrapping tell you  how a yarn will handle, feel, drape, work,
untwist, snap etc, for which you  need to test it (and my tables give you
information on that,  too).

For sampling, I included in my book graduated prickings which  allow you to
try out a small piece of lace, to test whole-, half-stitch and  ground with
14 pr of bobbins.  In the book, this goes up to 10mm  between the pinholes,
but I gave the guild prickings up to 14mm (about as  far as is sensible to
work with the majority of suitable knitting and  weaving yarns).  The
decision on how a yarn best works in lace is  yours - Goldilocks might say 
it
needs neither to be too loose nor too  tight, but just right!

If I want to know how to use a new yarn, I tex  it, look in my tables to see
what else is of similar thickness and which  dot-pitch (dp)/pricking size
suited that one, then make a sample in the  same sort of area to see how the
new one works.  It takes 30 secs to  tex, and a couple of hours to test; my
samples have travelled the world  with me so I always have examples to
compare with yarns I  encounter.

As an example of how this works, there is a silk scarf of  mine in the lace
exhibition currently at Whitchurch Silk Mill in the  UK.  I found a pretty
silk yarn online at KnitWitches Yarns, a Swiss  spun laceweight pure silk
2/12, 600m per 100gms, which I discovered to have  a tex of 160.  I make a
lot of linen lace in Bockens 16/2, which has a  similar tex, on a 10mm grid,
and I found this suited the silk,  too.

Testing it, I liked the way it behaved on bobbins and the result  it gave,
although I often find that when one makes a long piece with  continental
bobbins (where there is plenty of space to wind thick yarns),  yarns tend to
roll tight at one side and unravel at the other side.  I  can't now remember
which side that happened with the silk - it's all  according to whether it's
Z or S spun, but one quickly learns to re-twist  bobbins that are becoming
unravelled, or untwist those which seem  overspun.

I have been making scarves for well over 20 years, and have  tried various
lengths - I first copied a bought one of 4ft 6ins, and  decided that was too
short (unless you yourself are short, in which case  you 

[lace] Augusta Auction of Couture & Historic Fashions in New York

[Jeriames]

On Wednesday, Nov. 11 (Veteran's Day), the (Karen) Augusta Auction  Company 
is offering about 420 items of rare clothing and textile objects from  many 
American museum collections at an auction to be held in New York  City.  I 
think museums find it easy to raise cash from costumes that have  been 
donated "in good faith" that they will enhance exhibitions.   Unfortunately, 
museums usually have few costumes that can be viewed during  a visit to them, 
and auctions may be the reason why.  This can be a good  way to purchase a 
wedding gown, or the key materials for making one.
 
_www.augusta-auction.com_ (http://www.augusta-auction.com) 
 
The lots do not seem to have been numbered.  If you enlarge a photo,  there 
is a gold box at the top right that will get you back to the page  you were 
looking at.  Included are Irish crocheted garments, some tape  lace fashion 
items, and a Brussels lace wedding gown.  
 
It is fun to check your lace knowledge through auction  offerings.  I noted 
that a few captions were  incorrect.  
 
By looking at such sites, you learn about how lace was used in the  past.
 
The company promotes itself as North America's #1 Auction House for Couture 
 & Vintage Fashion, and is located in the state of Vermont.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Need to find a particular bobbin lace angel pattern

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers,
 
I was trying to get into our archives this morning, and could not.   Would 
someone else please test
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html 
 
Then, I highlighted the address and tried that.  It also failed!
 
Thought I'd look to see if there are any angel patterns in our files of  
Christmas exchanges that might be suitable for Sue to use. 
 
Incidentally, I purchased two of the kneeling baby angels shown  in Mark's 
blog at an International Organization of Lace  salesroom years ago.  So, 
someone was making them.  You could  have one, Sue, but I fear the thread would 
not match, as my angels are used  on the angel tree each year and it will 
have discolored.  The angel  tree is up from December 1 to February 14.  I 
find it helps me get through  the holidays, which I spend alone.  Some angels 
were made by friends, and  it is comforting to have them keep me company.
 
The book "New Designs in Honiton Lace" by Pat Perryman and Cynthia  Voysey, 
has a small Madonna and Child on page 65 that might be suitable.   The 
Madonna looks angelic.  The pricking is 1 3/4" high x 7/8" wide, and  seems 
about the size of the kneeling baby angel.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
 
In a message dated 10/26/2015 8:07:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wytchy...@sbcglobal.net writes:

Does  anyone know where I could find the pattern for this angel?  Found it  
on
a Google image search for "bobbin lace angel pattern".   



http://tat-man.net/blog/?p=1210



It's a link to  Tat Man's site, calling it a Honiton angel, but it's a blog
entry with no  mention of the pattern's origin.  My niece's baby was
stillborn last  week, and I'd like to make a lace angel for  her.



Peg

.very sad in Cleveland Heights,  OH

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[lace] Steampunk and Doily Free Zone, Lace for the Young

[Jeriames]

So that correspondence will go to the appropriate file in our Arachne  
archives, I have changed the subject line from the one used earlier today to  
Steampunk and Doily Free Zone (two subjects).
 
We last discussed Steampunk on Arachne in 2011 !There are probably 
people who cannot relate to that "label".  It would be  fun to hear what our 
members have to say about it.
 
It is also suggested that you share information about what younger  
generations are doing creatively (like Steampunk and Angharad Rixon's Doily  
Free 
Zone) with younger members of your family and local lace  groups.  It will 
make for interesting conversation, and perhaps some  inspired ways to bring 
young people to understanding lace and its  potential. 
 
We must find ways to make lace making and  lace knowledge appealing to 
younger artistically-inclined  people - especially in America, where I have 
noted that the average ages of  lacemakers in four local guilds to which I have 
belonged for  quite a few years is alarmingly high.  This is resulting in a  
decrease in the numbers of members and the numbers of volunteers  
available.  
 
This is A CALL TO ACTION, not a gentle reminder.
 
Suggest you put "Steampunk", and then "Doily Free Zone", in the  subject 
line of Searches of our archives to review what was said in  recent years:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/
 
Here is Rixon's site for more information about the 2016 Symposium in  
Italy :
 
http://www.doilyfreezone.com/call-for-papers-and-exhibition-proposals/
 
Let us add to these two examples, and come up with some resources for young 
 lacemakers.  I am not referring to young children here, but to those at  
high school and above ages who are artistically gifted and have the potential 
to  become the designers and professional makers of contemporary laces of 
the  21st Century that reflect their time in history.  
 
Hopefully, our international lace guilds will lead the way.  Please  share 
what they are doing - so we can activate a productive dialogue of  shared 
experience.  Can we offer assistance to art programs in universities  by 
sending our most talented and successful professionals to speak to  classes?  
What can we do that others are doing, using the most  recent information 
technologies available?  
 
(Let us whisper: May it never be said that I did not try to share my  lace 
experience and ideas with those who will follow in my  footsteps.)  Arachne 
members know what "lace fever" is, and  we must pass it on.
 
Jeri Ames - in a small town in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Mangling Lace

[Jeriames]

In a special-interest publication, I have come across a  long review of a 
new book about mangle boards, used for smoothing damp  linens.   The book is 
$185, so I thought the review would be an  inexpensive substitute.  It will 
give those who are interested a  jumping off point for printing pictures, 
etc. from the internet.   It is the last book reviewed at this site:
 
http://www.maineantiquedigest.com/stories/books-received-october-2015/5287
 
If you do not know about this subject, go to our archives and put  
"Mangling Lace" in the subject line.
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html
 
Would someone please comment briefly about this subject so that those who  
do not receive my notes to Arachne will be alerted to go to the archives to 
read  it?  Thank you.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lace Identification/Translation of Label - Eastern Europe - 2

[Jeriames]

Dear Lace Experts, 
 
This subject, written about yesterday, resulted in some fresh Arachne  
mail, as intended.  Much was personal - just to me, so the list did not see  
them.
 
Here are a couple items to remind everyone:
 
1.  Sometimes my mail from AOL does not get delivered.  It  happens only 
with some other companies (Hotmail was one this time around).   I am beyond 
ever trying to fight this issue again with AOL technicians.   When you see a 
reply to one of my mails, you can quickly find it in our  archives.  Most 
recent mail is listed on the page that pops up when you  access:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html
 
2.  I can tell you this particular mail reached Arachne members in  Poland 
and Australia, so it does work.
 
3.  One personal reply asked "What is Orvus?".  I have been  writing to 
Arachne for  20 years, and given  detailed instructions for  washing laces at 
least twice a year.  Go to the archive address in 1.  above, and type in the 
subject line: 
 
Jeri Ames, Orvus   Or:  Orvus, Jeri Ames   There  are 34 memos to read.
 
Or..if you have a very large amount of time, enter:
 
Jeri Ames   There are 1,465 matches.  That means a lot of  diverse info 
about laces.
 
Suggestion:  Some people have made copies of what has been written  about 
lace care and history, and put them in their own binder for future  use.  For 
the cost of printing and a binder, you can make a useful book,  and you can 
prepare a local lace group program about what you have learned here  on 
Arachne about caring for lace.  Yes, there are some books (rare), but  they do 
not acknowledge that distilled or de-ionized water should be used.   Be as 
aware as a small child, and know that tap water has  pollutants, chemicals 
and minerals in it.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lace Identification/Translation of Label - Eastern Europe

[Jeriames]

Dear Lace Experts,
 
Our list is too quiet.  Here is something to discuss.
 
Last year, I purchased a lace collection from a friend who desperately  
needed money.  It was all in one large densely-packed box, and  most is 
unlabeled.  Not knowing where the laces came from, I have been  slowly 
wet-cleaning 
using Orvus and distilled water.  They are not allowed  in my collection 
boxes until I am sure they have nothing (like small  micro-organisms) that 
would pass to my laces.
 
Some nice pieces were so dirty with black grease of some kind, that I  
soaked them, changing water and re-using Orvus for several washings - for 3  
months!  The white enamel basin actually developed a black ring at the  water 
line.  I would not advise this action to novice lace  launderers.  Lace must 
be very sturdy to keep in water that long, and  handled with care because 
the pull of gravity adds to the threat of  ripping.
 
Anyway, I have come across a tape lace collar that is of recent  origin.  
Perhaps it can be identified by country of origin.  A label  is sewn on it.  
All N's have the center bars slanted backward. Does it  sound like something 
you would know about?
 
Blue print on white label:
 
Artwork possibly reflecting the business is of a blue diamond shape with  
white design in center that may be meant to be lace.  It sort of looks like  
a primitive goddess:  head and bottom of A-line skirt are of 5-petal  
flowers, arms like angel wings.  I'm guessing from the Czech  Republic.  What 
do 
you think?
 
BonoroAcHoE   (the n looks like an upside-down u)
OPAEHA TPYAOBORO
HPACHOrO 3HAMEHN (r the same size as other letters)
KPYMEBHOE  (M looks like 2 H's connected at center bar)
O6bEANHEHNE
In larger letters:  CHEKKNHKA   (double K's are  back-to-back)
160003, r. BonorAa,
YpNNHORO, 119a
 
On the backside it is stamped:
HaNM.  BOPOTHNK  (with blurred identifying  product marks, also stamped).
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Battle of Britain lace

[Jeriames]

Old correspondence about these panels was placed in my copy of the book by  
Bill Rowe, for the convenience of future researchers.  At the time  Bill 
Rowe (in England) wrote "The Battle of Britain in  Lace" (about 2003), he 
noted 19 of 20 panels had been located.  His  book is quite comprehensive, and 
there is a lot in our Arachne archives, if  anyone wishes to search Battle of 
Britain. 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html 
 
Brian Farr wrote privately to some of us in 2008, and we have his  email 
address from that old information.  However, I will not publish  it on the 
very public Arachne.  Write privately, with a good  explanation of why you need 
it, and I will attempt to forward your letter to  him.  In 2008, he had 
located 30 of what he thought were 38 panels.
 
A reminder to travelers:  There is a Battle of Britain memorial  window in 
Westminster Abbey, which commemorates for all time the 1,495 names of  the 
RAF, the Canadian, New Zealand, Australian, South African, Polish, Czech,  
Belgian and American aircrews who gave their lives so that Freedom would not  
die.  It should be noted that the Battle was before America entered the  
war, so any Americans would have joined other forces to participate.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
--
In a message dated 9/19/2015 9:00:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
gil...@aol.com writes:
 
I know  many lacemakers are interested in the Battle of  Britain  
Commemorative Lace Panels, despite their machine, rather than hand,  
origin, so I 
thought I should pass on the rather scanty details of a new  book on  the 
subject 
that I was shown this week. 
The book records  the location of all the known surviving examples of the  
panels with  press cuttings and other back-up information, together with 
copies   of photos that were the inspiration for many of illustrations in 
the   
panels.
 it was written by an Australian, Brian Farr, and  self-published this 
year (2015). Part of the publication proceeds  are going to The Aviation 
Heritage Museum, Bull Creek, Western Australia  
and I .am  afraid this is the only contact given in the book.   Gil

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Re: [lace] Kalocsa lace from Budapest - Books

[Jeriames]

My books on Kalocsa are filed under the Embroidery category, because they
rely heavily on a pre-existing foundation fabric for execution.  On
occasion, parts are made of needle lace, but this is rare today.

In 1991, I went to Hungary the first time, landing within an hour of Pope
John Paul II's arrival at Franz Liszt Airport.  The city was in a  festive
mood.  Celebrating the Pope's arrival, handcrafters  set up their displays
and demonstrations at the Castle.  The lace makers  were wearing Renaissance
costumes, and tall cone hats with wispy scarves  floating from the tips.  It
was possible to buy some lovely bobbin lace  items.

On a day trip, we went to Kalocsa.  We saw demonstrations of making  the
Kalocsa Embroideries.  They were using old treadle sewing machines to  make
the white lacy parts.  Obviously, the cost for hand-made needle lace  would
have greatly increased the price and limited the amount that could be  sold.
>From time-to-time, pieces of Kalocsa have come my way.  If just  solid
embroidery, it may be stitched on wool felt, an important fabric  used for
coats
in Winter by people living in the countryside.  The  lacy parts are not work
ed on the felt.

In 2012, visiting friend Ilona in Budapest, we found a lovely book about
this Embroidery with the appearance of lace surrounding it.  I  can happily
recommend, because it is in Hungarian and in English:   "Treasures of
Kalocsa" by Kati Fejér, Kossuth Publishing, (_kiado@kossuth.hu_
(mailto:ki...@kossuth.hu) ) or (_www.kossuth.hu_ (http://www.kossuth.hu) ) 2nd
edition 2012,
ISBN  978-963-09-7132-4, a hardback of 248 pages that covers the subject in
detail.  Since it was a 2nd edition (the first was in 2006), you will
realize how popular it has been.

Much of the folk art of Kalocsa is covered in this book.  It starts  with
the history of the region.  In 1001 AD, King Stephen, founder of the
Christian state, established the 2nd archbishopric of the country here.
Thus, you
realize this is a special place to Hungarians.   The book covers important
architecture, and shows photos of entire rooms,  furniture, pottery and
Easter eggs painted with the colorful flowers that  also appear in embroidery.
Wonderful floral embroidery smothers  traditional costumes and linens.  It
is even used for altar cloths.   It reached its zenith in the 1930s.  It is
possible to buy fabrics and  linens printed with the designs.

Originally, the Kalocsa Embroidery was white-on-white on linen.
Color-fast dyes were late to develop, green being a problem until 1912.  It
is still
wise to test rich colors before using them on white fabrics, and if  the
dyes are fugitive, it is preferable to try to make them color-fast  before
embroidering.  Vinegar, added to water, is the solution recommended  in the
book for Hungarian threads.

The book contains patterns illustrated with beautiful color photos.   There
are instructions for doing eyelet, appliqué, Madeira and Richelieu
embroideries in white threads on cotton/linen.  These surround  and embrace
the
very colorful embroidered flowers stitched in a flat satin  stitch.  Threads
to
use are specified.

The old Singer Sewing Machine Company book, reprinted in  1987 by Lacis in
Berkeley California:  "Singer Instructions for Art  Embroidery and Lace
Work" is recommended to those with an interest in  trying something new on an
old treadle sewing machine.  Be aware that  (_www.lacis.com_
(http://www.lacis.com) ) has a warning on G**gl* that  "This site may be
hacked".

Hungarians have established centers throughout the world where they offer
exhibitions of their traditional arts and crafts, including Kalocsa works.
If they have gift shops, they may have Hungarian books or be able to order
them  for you.

You can read what Arachne members have written in the  past by entering
"Kalocsa" in the Search box at:

http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

In a message dated 9/13/2015 12:52:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jvik...@sover.net writes:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=kalocsa+lace=kalocsa+lace=kalo
csa+lace=IGRE

It's  embroidery and needle lace.

Jane in Vermont, USA
_jviking@sover.net_ (mailto:jvik...@sover.net)

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Re: [lace] Sea Silk

[Jeriames]

Thank you, Jane.
 
In 20 years, we have discussed many subjects on Arachne.  You  may learn 
more by searching 
 
1.  Sea Silk
2.  Byssus
 
in our archives:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 9/2/2015 6:52:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
janefr...@googlemail.com writes:

I've  never heard of sea silk before, but found this article amazing. I 
thought  others of you might be  interested.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-33691781

Jane,  New Forest, UK

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Re: [lace] Bulgarian bobbin lace makers - Personal security

[Jeriames]

From a security point of view, giving last names does not seem  like a 
great idea.  We do not know what safety concerns  these lovely  lacemakers in 
small villages might have.  I'd recommend not giving  exact locations without 
specific permission.  Certainly, we should take the  privacy precautions we 
always strive to do under such circumstances.   Perhaps there is an 
organized group that publishes pictures of their  laces?A lot can be viewed 
by 
simply g**gling  Bulgarian Laces.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
 
In a message dated 8/18/2015 5:35:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lhal...@bytemeusa.com writes:

Sally
I have seen Bistra's work on the internet. She is amazing.  But I don't know
about the others. Can you give us last names? (In case  they also have 
photos
online  somewhere).
https://plus.google.com/+BistraPisancheva/posts

https://plus.google.com/photos/+BistraPisancheva/albums/5322231781791394657
her  bobbin lace

Lorelei

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[lace] Lace Stars of the Past, Present Future

[Jeriames]

Can someone please tell me if Lace Stars of the Past, Present   Future 
is completely devoted to patterns for making bobbin lace stars (as  in those 
that we see in a dark sky)?
 
By City Circle Lacers, 2000  -   IOLI Pattern book  from Convention 2000  
 
I found the New England Lace Group has a copy of the book for members to  
borrow.
 
IOLI also has it for their members to borrow under Bobbin Lace  Pattern 
Books - order # P-034
 
Can Arachne members recommend any other pattern  books fully devoted to 
lace stars - in any lace making  technique?  Not snowflakes.  Stars.
 
Thank you!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Making heavier Wire and Fiber Cords - Safety concerns

[Jeriames]

A reminder that this is something that should NEVER be done in the  
presence of children   If they try any adult uses for  power drills in 
combination with wires, there could be serious injuries,  especially from 
spinning 
wire that may become detached.  It may be a good  idea to tie back long hair, 
wear safety glasses/long sleeves/lightweight  gloves.  
 
In classes, I taught use of a Kreinik Cording Drill that could be used  
with a variety of threads or yarn.   Kreinik is a manufacturer of  metallic 
threads.  Metallic threads are not wire.  Metallics are  synthetics.  They can 
be difficult to manage in stitching  and when spinning together because of 
their tendency to snag together,  but I found a lovely result can come from 
combining with embroidery  floss to match something in the making.  (Search 
Kreinik Cording  Drill.)  This is a product that does not use electricity and 
is safer for  children to use and observe in action.  You hand-turn a reel 
that is  somewhat like the reel on a fishing rod.  May require some practice 
using  left-over or cheaper materials before using to make a custom trim.
 
I sometimes use one blade in a portable electric mixer to make fiber cords, 
 but do not recommend because there is danger from pulling too  hard on the 
blade under tension.  A weight needs to be  used.  If you've done it, you 
know the procedure that works for  you.  Not for children to observe because 
they could tangle fingers into  the spinning blade or the blade may become 
detached and fly in any  direction.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 8/7/2015 9:42:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Hello  All!  At the 2014 IOLI convention in Sacramento, I attended Lauran  
Sundin's wire lace class.  One of the techniques she demonstrated in  class 
involved twisting wires together to make heavier cable.  She used a  
cordless drill at low speed.  Today I wanted to combine two strands of 28   
two 
strands of 30 gauge wire to create a cable/gimp.  The last time  I used a 
power drill, the torque caused a spiral fracture to my ring  finger.  To avoid 
another trip to the emergency room, my husband  suggested a Dremel drill 
because it has variable speed control.   Unfortunately none of the Dremel 
attachments allowed me to connect my wire to  the drill.  That's when I 
remembered 
my Spinster!  This is a  low-tech tool that many embroiderers use to make 
twisted cording for a  finished edge.  Using a doubled length of each wire, I 
attached the wire  loop ends to the Spinster hook.  My husband twisted 
together the four  free ends  held them with a pair of flat blade jewelry 
pliers while I  reeled!
under tension.  The resulting cable is quite lovely for  my first effort  
I will use this method again.  The Spinster was  easy to use/control  
adequate for my 28/30 gauge wire but does require an  extra pair of hands.  
Hope 
this is helpful to others who are working with  wire.  If someone else 
posted this info, sorry for the rerun.   Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Erie, PA USA 


Sent from my  iPad

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Re: [lace] Indianna Convention - Laces at Museum

[Jeriames]

In my library is a large lace exhibit catalog:  The Romance of  Real Lace
 
This accompanied an exhibition at the Indianapolis Museum of Art, Paul  
Textile Arts Gallery, August 1, 1993-January 9, 1994.
 
Inside, it says the lace collection of the Indianapolis Museum of Art is  
considered one of the finest in the country, spans 400 years and consists of  
more than 400 lace pieces.  Ranges from small fragments to large  
tablecloths and bedcovers.  Caps, lappets, collars, berthas, cuffs,  
handkerchiefs 
and household laces in various techniques are represented.   The museum began 
collecting around 1900.  In 1936 Mrs. Charles Crosley  donated an important 
collection of 19th century laces.  Karen Thompson, who  is a member of 
Arachne, was one of the people who provided volunteer time to  inventory and 
organize the collection, along with Julie Wiesler and Elfa  Taylor.
 
A most memorable set of laces is a bed cover and pillow sham from  Belgium, 
with the theme of cavorting cherebs making lace.  In the center of  the 
spread are 5 cherubs making lace, in a corner one gathers  flax and another 
uses a distaff.  (In a private collection,  I have seen another related piece 
that would have been part of the  original set!)
 
The International Old Lacers bulletin, Fall 1991, Volume 12, Number 1 shows 
 this lace on front and back covers and contains a long article by Elfa 
Taylor of  Indiana about this and other laces.  Figural laces and War Lace were 
in the  exhibit.  It was followed by another article in the next bulletin, 
that  includes a set of Valenciennes lappets analyzed by Karen Thompson,  
plus a World War 1 War Lace lappet and brief description of the Commission  
for Relief in Belgium (circa 1914).  Going further back: the May  1979 
newsletter/bulletin of IOLI contains an article about the cherub lace  donation.
 
This account illustrates how you can supplement something on your  library 
shelves by copying articles that were written about it, and placing  them 
together - for future researchers.  
 
Perhaps one of you can find images of laces at the museum.   I got messages 
that images were not available.   Hope the  laces will not be as difficult 
to view during the IOLI convention next year as  they are difficult to find 
via a computer search.  Perhaps someone in  the local lace group has 
influence?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 8/4/2015 6:26:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
d...@hotmail.com writes:

Believe there is a good collection of Lace in the main Museum in  Indiana.
When we were there in 2001, it was travelling, on loan to another  Museum.  
Our
son in law's grandparents were planning to take us there  and had enquired.
Mary Carey, Campbelltown,  NSW

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Re: [lace] Lace exhibition in Nottingham

[Jeriames]

Thank you, Amanda, for this reminder of the 40th anniversary of the  
Nottinghamshire Bobbin Lace Society.
 
My mission in writing about Lace is to be sure the history of women engaged 
 in the textile arts and industry are not forgotten.  
 
 
In 2001, I made a solo visit to Nottingham, staying 2 nights.   What lovely 
memories.  Angela Thompson, the author and a friend, had  provided a rough 
outline of what must be seen along a route from Edinburgh to  her home in 
England.  (This was a grand trip in which I'd already spent 2  weeks in 
Scotland studying embroidery, visited friends met via Arachne,  etc.)  In the 
process, I had visited every used book dealer possible, and  shipped books 
home. 
 Many were out-of-print, and were exciting  finds.  
 
Nottingham!  I had tried to connect with a lacemaker who corresponded  on 
Arachne, but was not successful.  Most memorable to me was a series  of very 
old small houses linked together to form a museum (up on a hill  near the 
hotel) full of vignette displays of life long ago.  The  costumes and 
furnishings were charming.  The settings rather dark, as they  would have been 
before electricity.  A cozy museum exhibit, with which  I vaguely remember 
Jeffrey Hopewell was associated.  He had written  the Shire booklet Pillow 
Lace 
and Bobbins in 1984.  I remember  reading this museum has since been 
demolished - and the  collections sent to another Nottingham museum.  
 
Alas, I did not find much of interest in 2001 at Castle Museum,  and 
thought it impersonal.  A search today for a Castle  Museum lace collection 
turned 
up no lace being exhibited, and no photos to  view.  Could this be so?   I 
searched for Lace at Castle Museum  in Nottingham; also for the Museum's 
Mission.  No Lace in the largest  museum in The City of Lace  Not even a 
panel of curtain  lace?  Do they need someone to write about their lace 
holdings for the  internet?  If there is no permanent lace display at this  
government-financed museum, Nottingham Lace needs a 21st century champion - a  
knightess in shining armor - armor that is over-draped in lace - perhaps to  
ride a fine horse through the city, up steps to government building  
entrances, and right into government offices!
 
History:  Knights gathered in Nottingham before setting out on  the 
Crusades, in the Medieval period. 
 
The other place enjoyed was The Museum of Nottingham Lace in The Lace  
Market.  There was a bobbin lace maker demonstrating in the  window.  I was the 
only visitor, and so we had a pleasant talk.   In the sales area I purchased 
7 little books (the size of Shire books) about  Nottingham and the Lace 
industry, which are kept in my  library with some flat round disk bobbins, 
threads, and other ephemera they  were selling.  I also purchased the large 
book 
Nottingham Lace 1760s -  1950s by Sheila Mason that later was lent to 
Devon and thus made a  visit by Mason to the lace collection at The 
Metropolitan Museum go more  smoothly.  That visit was about The Battle of 
Britain Lace 
depicting  scenes of WW 2.  This famous lace was made in Nottingham.  Is 
there an  exhibit about it anywhere?
 
By far, most important to this year's celebration is a spiral-bound book,  
An Outline History by the Nottinghamshire Bobbin Lace Society to celebrate 
 their 25th anniversary.  Since I may not be here in another 10 years to  
write about them on their 50th, I think it important to highlight  now.  A 
dozen years ago I wrote to Arachne that this was wonderful  documentation of a 
slice of local lace history.  
 
Will there be an update of this book published in 2015?  In  2025?   
 
Enjoyed the Face Book presentation, Amanda. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
  

 
 
In a message dated 8/3/2015 5:11:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
amanda.j.richa...@btinternet.com writes:

Just a  reminder that NBLS (Nottinghamshire Bobbin Lace Society) is
celebrating  their 40th anniversary this year with an exhibition of lace.  

It  runs from 11th - 15th August (next week) and is in Nottingham City
centre,  right next to the Nottingham Trent University Tram stop. Entry is
free and  there will be a Coffee bar for refreshments.

Full details can be found  on their web page and also their Facebook page
(you do not need to be a  Facebook member to view this)

http://www.revill.force9.co.uk/nbls/

https://www.facebook.com/laceinthecityoflace

Do  come if you can, I will be there on Tuesday and Thursday  afternoon
stewarding.  Amanda,  Nottingham

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