[BlindHandyMan] Fw: moderator

2007-04-08 Thread R S Enterprises
OK Yahoo would not take the message from a ryearns.
- Original Message - 
From: r yearns [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: moderator


 Hey moderator guys,
 Could one of you change my list email address from the lyearns 
 @charter.net to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 That is a chqange from a l to a r.
 Thanks,
 Ron 




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[BlindHandyMan] moderator

2007-04-08 Thread R S Enterprises
Hey moderator guys,
Could you change my list address.  currently [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Please 
change to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  that is change the l to a r.
Thanks
Ron Yearns 




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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] myth busters was PB Blaster vs. WD 40

2007-04-04 Thread R S Enterprises
Seems like I have a  a spray can of it in the shop.  But I remember the squirt 
can variety and used a lot of it .

Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice Mijares 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 9:12 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] myth busters was PB Blaster vs. WD 40


  before w-d-40, we use to use a product called Liquid Wrench. Does anyone 
  else remember this stuff? It worked pretty damn good for the times. 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purifiers

2007-04-03 Thread R S Enterprises
I am not sure of the ion maker as opposed to ozone producers.  If they are 
similiar, the same thing or totally different.  I do know that high levels of 
ozone will deteroite plastics and cause fabric to deteroite.  There is some 
discussion that ozone is harmful to the human lungs..  Maybe it is a case of 
moderation in all things.  If the unit is removing dirt and pollen then that is 
a good thing for sure.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Richard Sherman 
  To: blind handyman 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 7:37 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purifiers


  Hi,
  A person on another list has this question and so do I. Please help.

  ---
  I heard about the ionic breeze and other such air purifiers on TV. Does 
  anyone own one? How well do they work and what is the best air purifyer? i 
  heard about one that's supposed to make your air fresh like outdoor air like 
  clean air after a rainstorm. But I don't remember the name of it. 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] help needed

2007-03-14 Thread R S Enterprises
You can use a mail set if the panels were nailed on with finish nails, which 
have a small head with an indent on the top.  A few raps with a hammer should 
set them below the wood surface.  If it is nail with a flat head common nail a 
small flat ended punch can be used to countersink them.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:51 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help needed


  i hav pine cladding in my hall way and the panel pins keep comeing ut 
slightley with the heating of the house and thay catching on things like cloths 
and arms and hands when you walk past anyone got any idears about what i can 
doe 
  skype carlf16 email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  tell 01914066462

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] help needed

2007-03-14 Thread R S Enterprises
A small one eigth inch pin peunch will work.  Some may come back out with time 
but it is just a matter and resetting them again.
A pin punch could be made by sawing or grinding the end of a 10 or 16 penney 
nail off square on the point end.  It might bend with use and you can make 
another one one or just buy the animal .
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:35 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help needed


  i used panel nails and thay keep comeing out with the expanding and 
contracktion as the house walms up and cools down
  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 3:20 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help needed

  You can use a mail set if the panels were nailed on with finish nails, which 
have a small head with an indent on the top. A few raps with a hammer should 
set them below the wood surface. If it is nail with a flat head common nail a 
small flat ended punch can be used to countersink them.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:51 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help needed

  i hav pine cladding in my hall way and the panel pins keep comeing ut 
slightley with the heating of the house and thay catching on things like cloths 
and arms and hands when you walk past anyone got any idears about what i can 
doe 
  skype carlf16 email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  tell 01914066462

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?

2007-03-14 Thread R S Enterprises
Teflon tape is a definate insulator.  If the threads don't cut through enough 
to make contact.  Then light no workie.
Ronn
  -
   Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?


  well, as the great Chili brought Teflon to mind, you could also use teflon 
  tape like with pipes.



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.

2007-03-14 Thread R S Enterprises
I saw the price on Knockler and Constines on the Craig system and ordered a 
doweling jig for seven bucks from Harbor Freight.  Then later I was in a Clarks 
tool store and asked about a pocket hole jig.  The guy came out with a jig and 
the bit apoligizing that the bit was almost as much  as the jig.  The bit was 
eight somthing and the jig a little over ten.  Of course I went home a happy 
camper.  Now I have not tried out these items yet, but eighteen compared to one 
fifty bears checking out in  my book..  I will check on the box and instruction 
later to see if there is a brand and such.  I don't even know if Clark tools is 
national or local.  I just know there is a store in Sedalia and Independance 
Missouri.  

So if Clark tools doesn't exist at your local look in the yellow pages for tool 
stores.Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 9:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.


  i don't know enough to even get this far.
  What is pocket about the joinery?
  Further, doesn't joinery mean joining?
  So is this for tongue and grove planks to be screwed together?
  I'm not that bright, till I get it. :)

  On Wed, 14 Mar 2007, Mickey Fixsen wrote:

   I have been using 2 different models of the Kreg pocket hole tools for 
years. They are quality tools and well worth the price. As long as you have 
made good cuts on the boards, the pocket holes make very tight, strong joints. 
These tools are easy to use with very little learning curve.
  
  
  
   You must use the proper screws to make the system work correctly. All of 
the screws for this purpose have a flat pan head toward the shank of the screw 
and the top of the screw head is a low dome with a square drive. There are fine 
thread self-tapping screws for hardwood and coarse thread self-tapping screws 
for softwood. I think there are even special thread screws for particle and 
fiber board, although, I have used the coarse thread screws for this purpose 
with good results. They are available in various lengths and with different 
coatings, depending whether for indoor or outdoor use.
  
  
  
   In my shop, the Kreg pocket hole tools are a must have item.
  
  
  
   Good luck.
  
   - Original Message -
   From: Dan Rossi
   To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 12:14 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Pocket hole jigs.
  
  
   So I just read Ray's post on the Kreg R3 pocket hole joinery kit. I don't
   know much, or anything, about pocket hole joinery. Has anyone used this
   particular kit, or any others? Can anyone give me an idea on whether or
   not this R3 kit seems like a worthwhile investment? Or is there another
   pocket hole kit that you have used that is just the be all and end all of
   pocket joinery?
  
   thanks.
  
   --
   Blue skies.
   Dan Rossi
   Carnegie Mellon University.
   E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Tel: (412) 268-9081
  
  
  
  
  
   --
  
  
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6:53 PM
  
  
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] casters

2007-03-04 Thread R S Enterprises
Well two thoughts come to mind.  If the casters are the style with the metal 
mounting plate is relatiave easy to lay it on a table and measure up from the 
table to the top surfface of the caster wheel.  If the style is such that a 
stem is mounted into a hole then I would get a scrap of wood, drill the correct 
size of stem hole and insert the caster.  Then with the scrap laying on the 
bench measure from the scrap to the top of the wheel like was done with the 
plate mounting stuyle..  Yes carpet makes things a little difficult at times.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 4:43 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] casters


  Hi Listers,
  Is there a trick on how to figure out the correct height of casters? I just 
brought the TV stand up stairs and have a small problem that I can correct. I 
mounted the casters so that 3/4 of the wheel protrudes from the bottom. Well 
the drawer that I built in the bottom does not work. It is sunk into the 
carpet. I am planning on first putting a 1/4 shim under the wheels, then if 
necessary 3/8 and then 1/2 shims until I find one that will work. There must 
be an easy way to figure out exactly what measurement I need.
  My daughter doesn't care she just wants the stand in her room. I will make 
her wait at least 48 hours to make sure that the polyurethane is cured.

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Oil base paint question

2007-03-02 Thread R S Enterprises
Odd i remember it the other way around.  You can paint latex, water based, over 
oil.  Putting oil paint over latex doesn't work.  Hope this lessens your 
concern.
In a similar fashion one can put enamel over lacquer, but don't put laquer over 
enamel.  It tends to dislove it while it is wet.  Lacquer thinner does a great 
job of cleaning up other paint.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Boop 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 2:19 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Oil base paint question


  Hi gang,
  I know you can not use water base paint over oil base
  paint. Is there something I can do, or use, short of removing
  the oil base paint so I can do this? We aren't positive the
  paint we are covering is oil base, but with our luck, it is. Any
  suggestions?

  Thanks,
  Boop



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs

2007-03-01 Thread R S Enterprises
Couldn't have said it better myself.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: NLG 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 7:26 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs


  There are two separate wires coming out of the fuse box. One is the hot wire 
which will be attached to the fuse holder in the box. The other wire is the 
neutral wire and will be attached to a bus bar in the fuse box.

  You can distinguish between the hot wire and the neutral wire by establishing 
a temporary ground. A temporary ground can be a metal water pipe, a ground rod 
driven into the earth (such as the telephone company's ground) Hook a volt 
meter up with one lead from the meter connected to the temporary ground and the 
other to one of the wires connected to a receptacle. If it reads voltage you 
are connected to the hot wire. If no voltage is detected, you are connected to 
the neutral wire.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 18:17
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs

  Now here is the question?

  There is one wire which begins at the box and returns to the box. It is 
  pulled from fixture to fixture, from plug to plug and broken at intervals by 
  switches. Branch fixtures are fed by soldering on a branch wire.

  At which point does that wire change from a live wire to a neutral wire?

  Now as I have been replacing circuits in this old house I can tell you there 
  is no way to discriminate a live from a neutral. You cannot just cut into 
  one wire for the live side to add a fixture and complete the circuit by 
  identifying a neutral wire to tap into.

  When there is a switch in such a circuit are you saying that because it is 
  down stream from the lamp this is the neutral side? So long as the switch is 
  open there is no circuit regardless if it is in that wire before the lamp or 
  after the lamp.

  Neutral in the context of knob and tube really doesn't have much meaning.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 1:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs

   Hi Ron, Yes, that is the way was in my home and a few others in which I
   worked. The one thing that I found out in replacing the wire was that the
   old knob and tube wiring was that all light switches broke the neutral as
   opposed to the hot.
   I have been told that in those days it was believed that was the safe way 
   to
   wire.
   I haven't been able to verify that fact.
   Lenny
   - Original Message - 
   From: R  S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 12:50 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs
  
  
   AAA. I can't speak for the knob and tube in the fair north land, but 
   the
   ones I have been involved with in the states have a grounded neutral. The
   sad part that they used the same black wire for all the wiring or else it
   discolored with age. Anyway it required me using a portable ground
   reference when doing changes and adds. True it does not have the third
   equipment grounding wire, but there is a hot and neutral side. at least in
   my experience.
   Ron
   - Original Message - 
   From: Dale Leavens
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 11:46 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs
  
  
   You worry too much!
  
   knob and tube wiring is much different, there isn't really a hot or
   neutral
   side. A single wire runs from point-to-point with branches soldered in at
   points where expedient so in some sense the entire circuit is always hot
   unless a switch breaks the circuit. Fortunately, knob and tube isn't
   grounded so short of standing in a grounded sink full of water, removing 
   a
   broken bulb with the switch turned off is probably safer than with a
   properly grounded two conductor circuit.
  
   Knob and tube wiring actually is much safer provided you don't go adding
   to
   it. Once a circuit is broken with a switch there simply is no way for
   electricity to flow through the circuit. The simple thing that needs to 
   be
   remembered about electricity is that it needs a loop. break that loop and
   there is no way for it to energize anything. It is possible to create an
   alternative loop like from the hot to ground or from one circuit to
   another
   but that takes work in a case like this.
  
   Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Skype DaleLeavens
   Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear

Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs

2007-02-28 Thread R S Enterprises
AAA. I can't speak for the knob and tube in the fair north land, but the 
ones I have been involved with in the states have a grounded neutral.  The sad 
part that they used the same black wire for all the wiring or else it 
discolored with age.  Anyway it required me using a portable ground reference 
when doing changes and adds.  True it does not have the third equipment 
grounding wire, but there is a hot and neutral side. at least in my experience.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 11:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs


  You worry too much!

  knob and tube wiring is much different, there isn't really a hot or neutral 
  side. A single wire runs from point-to-point with branches soldered in at 
  points where expedient so in some sense the entire circuit is always hot 
  unless a switch breaks the circuit. Fortunately, knob and tube isn't 
  grounded so short of standing in a grounded sink full of water, removing a 
  broken bulb with the switch turned off is probably safer than with a 
  properly grounded two conductor circuit.

  Knob and tube wiring actually is much safer provided you don't go adding to 
  it. Once a circuit is broken with a switch there simply is no way for 
  electricity to flow through the circuit. The simple thing that needs to be 
  remembered about electricity is that it needs a loop. break that loop and 
  there is no way for it to energize anything. It is possible to create an 
  alternative loop like from the hot to ground or from one circuit to another 
  but that takes work in a case like this.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 12:13 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan](hot or neutral) Fuses and light bulbs

   Well for my two cents: The hot wire in new homes is broken at the switch.
   However old homes that have old knob and post wiring are usually not wired
   that way. When I purchased this home which is a little over a 100 years 
   old
   the old wiring was reversed. When the home was wired it was thought that
   was best to have the neutral lines broken at the switch.
   An electrician friend when working in older homes always removes the fuse 
   or
   trips the breaker prior to working on a circuit. I have an ac detector 
   that
   lets me know if there is any current in a line. It gives an audible sound.
   I would trip the circuit before toying with that light.
   Lenny
   - Original Message - 
   From: David Engebretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 11:15 PM
   Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs
  
  
   The faucet analogy doesn't make sense to me. A pipe feeding the faucet
   either
   has pressure or it doesn't.
  
   Light bulbs, on the other hand, have two wires leading to their plugs. 
   One
   hot
   and one neutral. I've always heard that the neutral is the wire that is
   broken
   when a switch is thrown.
  
   Either way, if the electrician wired it so the neutral is the wire that is
   broken when the switch is thrown, then the hot would still be active. If
   the
   hot and anything grounded touched, there would be sparks, right?
  
   Thanks,
   David
  
  
  
   -Original Message-
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
   On
   Behalf Of Jay Williams
   Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 7:42 PM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs
  
  
   Nothing will happen if the switch is off! It disconnects the hot side so
   what's there to spark? Remember, the switch comes *before the light bulb 
   so
   anything you do at the location of the bult is safe. Think of the fawcet 
   on
   your washbasin. If you turn off the valve that's before the fawcet on the
   intake pipe, than you can remove the fawcet and no water will gush. If
   there's no valve right there, than you would turn off the valve for the
   whole mains. Same here, if the only way to turn off these lights is to 
   throw
   the main switch, than that's what you'd have to do.
   Jay
   - Original Message -
   From: David Engebretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 6:07 PM
   Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs
  
  
   Oh boy, sounds scary. If I touch the outside at the same time as the
   inside,
   will it spark and possibly blow a fuse?
  
   Thanks,
   David
  
  
   -Original Message-
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
   On
   Behalf Of Bill Gallik
   Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 6:02 PM
   

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs

2007-02-24 Thread R S Enterprises
Y E S if the power is on.  Then it will hopefully blow the fuse you need to 
unscrew.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: David Engebretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs


 Oh boy, sounds scary.  If I touch the outside at the same time as the 
 inside,
 will it spark and possibly blow a fuse?

 Thanks,
 David


 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 On
 Behalf Of Bill Gallik
 Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 6:02 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs


 Take an electrical needle nose pliers and just latch onto the inside of 
 the
 broken bulb.  Electrical needle nose pliers have rubber handles to 
 insulate
 you from electrical shock.  And if you want to play it real safe stand on 
 a
 wooden chair or step ladder when you do this.
 
 Bill Gallik
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs

2007-02-24 Thread R S Enterprises
N O if wired properly the white wire which connects to the outer shell is 
not hot.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: David Engebretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs


 Isn't one of the wires always hot, even though the light switch is off?

 Thanks,
 David


 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 On
 Behalf Of Dale Leavens
 Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 5:51 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs


 So long as you can be certain that the lights are off while you work on 
 the
 bulbs you will be fine. Put a strip of tape over the switch in the off
 position so you or someone else won't accidentally forget and turn it on
 while you want it off.

 Throwing the main switch though isn't anything to worry about. If it is a
 separate panel it is probably a sort of thick bent wire handle on the side
 of the box to pull down.

 Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Skype DaleLeavens
 Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


 - Original Message - 
 From: David Engebretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 7:53 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs


 So, I was working on making some big ass shelves in my garage...

 There are hanging light bulbs from the just under 8 foot ceiling, and my 
 8
 foot
 2x4's knocked out two of them.  Sigh.

 The fuse box has those screw in type of fuses and I don't want to 
 tactally
 feel
 around for a main switch or the fuses themselves for that matter.  I'm a
 woose
 when it comes to electricity.

 Is there a safe way for me to get those broken light bulbs out of their
 sockets
 without throwing a switch or removing the fuses?

 Thanks,
 David

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Floor question.

2007-02-12 Thread R S Enterprises
Basically what you have said is exactly how it was done in the old days.  The 
first row is nailed next to the wall on the face and at a 45 in the tongue.  
Yes  pilot holes both places and use a nail set for both places. Once a person 
got the hang of it you would nail the rest of it without the pilot holes unless 
you were close to the end of a board or it split on you.   I have forgotten 
what thickness this flooring was but the standard oak we used was 3/4 inch so  
a 6 penney finish nail.was used.  You could use 8's if desired or if you drill 
a shallow angle.  Be careful you don't come out into the tongue underneath like 
you might if you drilled too straight.  Use a scrap board to beat the boards 
snug before nailing.  And in the old days every 10 or so rows we would use a 10 
pound sledge and a two by four against the beater board to really snug them up. 
 If yours is the prefinished and thin this technique would probably cause some 
damage so treat it nice.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 2:06 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Floor question.


  OK, I have a question about laying the hardwood floor. You can't use the 
  floor stapler on the first couple of courses since you are too close to 
  the wall. I have read about face nailing the first couple of courses. 
  You can try and face nail the first course very close to the edge and have 
  the shoe molding cover it up. The second course you can patch the nail 
  holes with stained filler.

  My question is, can you maybe face nail that first course, but then the 
  second and third course, you can drill pilot holes on a 45 at the tongue 
  and hand nail them so you don't have the issue of having to patch the nail 
  holes?

  I can see two issues. First, do you not do this simply because you are 
  much more likely to ding up the edges of the boards trying to hand nail?

  Second, do you need to face nail a couple of courses since that makes it 
  more resistant to pushing backwards when you start with the neumatic floor 
  stapler?

  Thanks.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] refrigerator door seal

2007-02-12 Thread R S Enterprises
Just a note.  The one I did the door warped out of shape so I had to take the 
door off and lay it flat on the floor and  snug the screws down kind of like 
lug nuts on a car.  Doing opposite ones back and forth and across.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 2:29 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] refrigerator door seal


  Hi Rita

  This should not be too difficult.
  If it is like the fridge that I have, you will find screws along both sides
  and the top and bottom behind the flap of the door seel. Just pull back the
  flap on the inside of the door and you will find the screws. I would make
  sure to have all the product off the door shelves because the inside pannal
  may come loose when you take out all the screws.you just slide the old one
  out and screw in the new one. If you leave a couple of screws in the bottom
  and start the new one at the top this should hold the pannal in place. once
  you get the new one started you can take out the final screws at the bottom
  and finnish the job.Pay very close attention to how the old one is assembled
  before you remove it. You want to do this with any project any way. Make
  sure that the back flap is behind the door pannal and the front flap is in
  front of the door pannal.
  Once you have re assembled every thing It is very important to warm it up
  with a hair dryer because the new seal will come folded up in a box and will
  be slightly creased. Be careful not to get it so hot as to warp the rubber
  seal but warm enough to make sure it is all laying nice and flat.
  Good luck
  Robert

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Rita
  Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 1:19 PM
  To: Blind Handyman
  Cc: Rita
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] refrigerator door seal

  Hello Everyone,
  I just had a new compressor put into my refrigerator and now I notice the
  seal is not tight. I am careful to push
  the door completely
  shut each time. Certainly the seal needs to be replaced. How does one go
  about doing this and I would need
  step by step instructions as the janitor in my building has such high
  prices. It is my own refrigerator. With the weather
  being as it is, I may not do this for a week or so.
  Any ideas would
  really be appreciated. Rita

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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[BlindHandyMan] tank water heater

2007-02-11 Thread R S Enterprises
I was listening to a home improvement show today and the host offered an 
interesting way of testing the function of a tank hot water heater.  First 
you wait until the burner of elements have quit heating.  Then go into the 
bath tube with a five gallon bucket.  Run the water until it gets hot then 
run the bucket full and check the temperature with a candy or cooking 
therometer.  Lets say it is 140 degrees F.  Record this temperature.  Dump 
the water and fill another bucket.  At this point leave the therometer in 
the water stream and continously monitore the water temperature.  Measure 
and count the number of five gallon buckets you dump.  When the temperature 
has dropped 30 degrees.  In the case where we started at 140 that would be 
110.  Shut off the water and see how many total gallons have been run out of 
the tank.  If that number equals 70 percent of the capacity of the tank it 
is doing ok.  As in a 30 gallon tank that would be 21 gallons while a 40 
gallon tank would be 28.  If you get more then great if less the problem 
might the tube that directs the cold water to the bottom of the tank has a 
hole or is corroded off or it may be so full of lime you can't even heat 
that many gallons.  Well I thought it was interesting enough to pass on. 
Yes for us it would require a talking therometer and keeping a close watch 
on that bucket so it didn't run over.
Ron 




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto rule description

2007-02-11 Thread R S Enterprises
, there is a bit of a learning curve with it. Just use it a 
bit 
  and get used to how it operates. You will find that it is very accurate. It 
is 
  by far the best overall measuring tool for use by the blind.

  By the way, the Clickrule works on the same principle as the rotomatic, but 
  uses a sliding device instead of a rotating nut, and it has a detent that 
  lightly holds the tool every 1/16. The clickrule won't lie as flat on the 
  workpiece as the Rotomatic and does not have it's 1/64 accuracy. They both 
  have their plusses and minuses. I use them both, depending on the particular 
  task at hand.

  If you have any other specific questions about how to use the Rotomatic, just 
  ask. 

  Good luck.

  From Dale Leavens: 

  You have done pretty well at describing the rule.

  The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut is 
  the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if 
  you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even to 
  use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.

  You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the 
  rectangular nut, this is to help orient it.

  You are correct, the half inch marks are where a thread is continued all 
  around the face of the milled side of the threaded rod. Each revolution of 
  the nut represents one sixteenth of an inch so, half a turn is a 32nd of an 
  inch and a quarter turn is a 64th. two complete turns is an eighth of an 
  inch and so on.

  If you require more than 6 inches then you thread the 6 inch rod bringing 
  your measure up as far as 12 and a half inches, add the 12 inch rod or the 
  18 inch rod or any combination there of and you have the lengths you 
  require.

  What I really like about the measure is that I can set a size off of a plan 
  or I can take a measure from a project, lock the nut into place then go to 
  my miter saw and pressing the end of the rod against the blade, adjust the 
  wood to be cut until it is flush with the nut and cut an exact size. I 
  frequently end up with a bit of a bruise on my chin from holding the saw 
  down against the board, I do have a bungee cord hanging on the cabinet I can 
  use to hold the saw down to the wood while I set the distance precisely but 
  this takes time and I often don't bother.

  I can as easily use it to very accurately set the distance from rip fence to 
  blade on my table saw and so on.

  This is of course not adequate beyond 42 and a half inches although I 
  suppose you could get more rod if you need or want it.

  I do try to keep a stick or two around here precisely 4 feet long but rarely 
  do I need it. Even when I raised this addition it was mostly fine to use the 
  dimensional lumber and/or relative measures with a locking tape measure. I 
  used a block to space studs, locking tape measure to determine the actual 
  length of span for building the roof trusses, I didn't actually even have 
  the roto ruler back then but a folding meter stick ruler.

  A tactile ruler though just isn't accurate enough for cabinet work and 
  hardly for structural framing. Things like carpenter squares known to be 24 
  on the two inch leg and 16 on the inch and a half leg can also be helpful in 
  frame construction.

  The foregoing messages should give you a pretty complete description of the 
Roto-rule.

  --
  Larry Martin
  Woodworking for the Blind
  --joining the world of blind wood workers

  -- Original message --
  From: R  S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description of 
   the operation of the roto rule. I would like to talk with them via 
   telephone. If they would e-mail me off list with a phone number and best 
   time to call I would call them. as I have some ideas to discuss.
   thanks
   Ron Yearns 
   
   

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question

2007-02-09 Thread R S Enterprises
A suggestion comes to mind regardless of which lumber you use.  If you cut a 
rabbet in the front and back the end grain of the sides will be covered and you 
can nail or screw through the front and back into the sides then you can slso  
nail or screw through the sides into the front and rear.  Doing this locks the 
lumber together both ways and makes for stronger.  I would suggest pilot holes 
if using screws.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 1:31 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question


  I've decided to build some boxes that will be used to store CDs in a couple 
cabinets we have. These will be simple, just a bottom, and four sides. I think 
I want the bottoms and fronts and backs to be 3/4 inches thick. 

  Basically, I'm thinking about either 1x8s or 3/4 inch plywood. If I use the 
1x8s, there's likely to be some waste, whereas if I use plywood, there'll be a 
lot less.

  My question to you folks then is whether there's a reason not to screw into 
the edges of plywood. There's not going to be a lot of stress on these 
obviously, but I know the center sheets in plywood can be pretty low in grade.

  Thoughts?



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question

2007-02-09 Thread R S Enterprises
Sure you can cut a rabbet with a circular saw.  It is a matter of setting the 
depth of cut on the saw and using a guide clamped so the main cut is done 
following along it.  Then come out a little and make multiple passes so you 
make numerous saw cuts then use a hand chisel to split them out and smooth up 
the joint..  I don't remember the lenth and width of the pieces you were using, 
but you could clamp them together and cut across a number of them at one time.  
Make sure to put the wider base of the saw on uncut material all the time so 
the correct depth of cut will be controlled.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 4:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question


  Thanks Ron. I don't think I have the tools to do this, but it's a good idea. 
About all I have in the way of woodworking tools is a circ saw, a handheld 
jigsaw and some hand saws. Do you think it would be possible to cut rabbets 
with the tools I already have?

  I think there's going to be a total of 24 of these boxes, so this should keep 
me busy until the weather warms up if that's ever going to happen.

  -Original Message-
  .From: R  S Enterprises[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  .Sent: 2/9/07 3:27:19 PM
  .To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
  .
  .A suggestion comes to mind regardless of which lumber you use. If you cut a 
rabbet in the front and back the end grain of the sides will be covered and you 
can nail or screw through the front and back into the sides then you can slso 
nail or screw through the sides into the front and rear. Doing this locks the 
lumber together both ways and makes for stronger. I would suggest pilot holes 
if using screws.
  .Ron
  . - Original Message - 
  . From: William Stephan 
  . To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  . Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 1:31 PM
  . Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
  .
  .
  . I've decided to build some boxes that will be used to store CDs in a couple 
cabinets we have. These will be simple, just a bottom, and four sides. I think 
I want the bottoms and fronts and backs to be 3/4 inches thick. 
  .
  . Basically, I'm thinking about either 1x8s or 3/4 inch plywood. If I use the 
1x8s, there's likely to be some waste, whereas if I use plywood, there'll be a 
lot less.
  .
  . My question to you folks then is whether there's a reason not to screw into 
the edges of plywood. There's not going to be a lot of stress on these 
obviously, but I know the center sheets in plywood can be pretty low in grade.
  .
  . Thoughts?
  .
  .
  .
  . 
  .
  .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  .
  .



   

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[BlindHandyMan] roto rule description

2007-02-08 Thread R S Enterprises
I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description of 
the operation of the roto rule.  I would like to talk with them via 
telephone.  If they would e-mail me off list with a phone number and best 
time to call I would call them. as I have some ideas to discuss.
thanks
Ron Yearns 




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] PVC cement, or PVC Weld

2007-02-07 Thread R S Enterprises
Make sure you also have and use the cleaner before the glue.  Also plan your 
work.  There is not a lot of slack time to be repositioning the joints About a 
quarter turn is what to figure on to distribute the glue.  A full swab of the 
glue or cleaner should be enough to make a complet swipe around the inside of 
the joint.  That may be enough but I use a swipe around the pipe also.  
Probably twice too much but I haven't had a leak.  Well actually you have to 
use the cleaner on both the pipe and fitting.  Just swipe with the swab in the 
can don't attempt to wipe with anything else.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: M.J. Terblanche 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 2:01 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PVC cement, or PVC Weld


  Hi all,
  Does anyone has ideas on using PVC cement, also known as PVC Weld? It's a 
type of glue that temporary dissolves the survace of PVC fittings, allowing you 
to join a pipe to, for example, an elbo join, resetting in about 24 hours to 
form a snug and water tite connection.
  Anyway, if anyone has some tips on blind people using this stuff, I'd 
appreciate it. I'm planning to redo my swimming pool's pump and filter plumbing 
to allow for easy removal of the pump if it gets defect etc. I've already 
gotten all the fittings and pipe I'll need, but want to make sure I can do it 
without sighted help, and do it propperly.
  Thanks for any ideas,
  Matthys 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Which way to lay?

2007-02-04 Thread R S Enterprises
Well in the old days the good carpenters laid the sub floor at a 45 degree 
angle.  This supposedly helped brace the joists and the biggest reason is so 
they could lay the finish flooring, usually short oak, eight direction.  With 
some of those short boards trying to hit a joist was definately a hit or miss 
deal.  The nailing of the finish floor was done entirely into the subfloor.  
Many of those boards were too short to span the distance between joists.  
Anyway to your problem.  Unless you put in another layer of plywood you have 
only the choise of laying at right angles to the subfloor flooring.  First see 
if you can use some screws to pull some of the cupped boards down tighter.  A 
couple of screws about a inch and a half apart and tighten alternatly can do 
wonders.  Once you have sucked all of them down you can get you might hit the 
high points with a real coarse belt sander or a hand plane..  Voids under the 
finish floor ain't good.  They ain't squeaky clean  just squeaky
Remember the felt paper over the sub floor and clean, clean, clean the subfloor 
of debries.  
Ron.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 9:27 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Which way to lay?


  OK,

  I know that all guidelines for laying wood floors say to run the boards 
  perpendicular to the joists. That makes some sense sure.

  Having said that, I am laying this floor over an existing plank floor. 
  The planks obviously run perpendicular to the joists. If I run my new 
  floor perpendicular to the joists, IE parallel to the existing planks, it 
  seems like there might be trouble in paradise. These planks aren't in the 
  best condition and some are cupped a bit. I can imagine I would get a 
  wavy effect if I run my boards parallel to the planks.

  Would running my boards perpendicular to the planks, IE parallel to the 
  joists just be a horror of horrors with handyman demons cursing me and 
  taking my hammer and saws away from me?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] flourescent lights

2007-02-02 Thread R S Enterprises
I think it is a little like asbestoes.  As long as it is contained it is ok.  
Used bulbs used to be thrown into the trash broken glass then the small amount 
of mercury in the tube is released into the environment so oops hazardous 
waste.  I understand the university now has to handle them special when 
disposing.  At this point I think the restrictions apply just to large end 
users not residental users.  New lamps are to be used in a fixture and not to 
be broken.  However once they don't work and are going to be thrown away they 
become hazardous.  Is there anything better than American logic.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 7:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flourescent lights


  Hi Ron,
  Some more interesting information that my friend at the hospital can't 
  understand is when they become hazard material. One day an inspector from 
  environmental protection came by. Jim had a box filled with burned out bulbs 
  and the inspector flipped out screaming that they are hazardous material. 
  Next to it was a box of new tubes. Jim asked him what makes these hazardous 
  and not the new ones. He got no answer but had to treat the burned out ones 
  as hazardous material.
  Did you ever run into anything like that?
  Lenny

  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 12:27 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flourescent lights

  Hummm. When I was supervisoring the electrical maintenance at the local 
  university the 34 watt super savers as they were called performed fine in 
  the standard 40 watt ballests. The 32 wat would not. I guess your bulbs 
  hasd the plastic coating already on them. A shatter shield was one I was 
  familiar with. They made a plastic sleeve you could slide over a standard 
  bulb which we tried. A lot of the time the head from the lamp would fuse 
  the plastic to the lamp making removal after burn out difficult if not 
  imposssible. Still I think it was cheaper than buying the lamp with the 
  plastic already on the lamp.
  Well anyway the t 8 lamps do provide more lumens, light, per wat than the t 
  12 lamps of old.. Wonder how many million of those 40 watt t 12 lamps I 
  have handled?. Guess I didn't offer any advice or suggestions did I, just a 
  little ramblings of times past.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
  Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 10:51 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] flourescent lights

  A few weeks ago I mentioned that Karen found some new fluorescent lamps. 
  These bulbs are totally encased in plastic so if dropped or broken there is 
  no glass to clean up.
  I had these bulbs in for about a month and they burned out. Today I found 
  out that they are 34 watt bulbs and my old fixtures are 40 watt.
  This caused the bulbs to burn out. When talking to the GE representative 
  about them they are still going to replace them and suggested that I 
  purchase a 34W ballast. I located a new fixture for $10.00 that will accept 
  a 24w, 34w and 40w bulb. I will install this fixture next week.
  When the other regular 40w bulbs burn out I probably will replace the 
  entire fixture with the new electronic T8 32W bulbs.
  Talking to a friend earlier this evening he told me that the hospital 
  converted every fluorescent light to these T8 fixtures. He said that they 
  are a little cheaper to operate and produce more light.
  I saw that the fixtures are available for $8.00 at Home Depot and the 
  bulbs are about $3.00 each.The T8 bulb has a daylight bulb that Karen wants. 
  It will help her when she finishes my projects. I am forbidden to touch a 
  paint brush. She doesn't like me to use a glue bottle either.

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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or
ftp

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Making an omlette without cracking the slab?

2007-02-02 Thread R S Enterprises
I agree with others.  No reason to tear up your floor.  Patch the crack.  The 
reinforcing steel in the slab should keep it from getting real wide.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 10:28 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Making an omlette without cracking the slab?


  The garage floor has a crack that runs the length of the garage. Near the
  back wall, the crack starts as a hairline and as you go to the opening of
  the garage, this crack widens to a half inch before narrowing back down.
  The crack is about four feet from the outer garage wall and about eight feet
  from the other wall. There is no crack on the back wall. The cement
  driveway has a multitude of cracks. These cracks have been there for at
  least twelve years. Do I have to replace the garage floor?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] compression fittings.

2007-01-31 Thread R S Enterprises
I have personally gotten them as large as 3/4.  On some valves you have to buy 
a threaded valve and then get a thread to compression adapter.  But it still 
works fine and they get to make more money.  It's the american way.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] compression fittings.


  I know compression fittings are pretty common on quarter inch line. Can 
  you get them for half inch line?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] framing nail gun

2007-01-28 Thread R S Enterprises
Some very good points to think about.
Thanks,
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 10:56 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] framing nail gun


  I have only used one large nail gun of that size, the nails were indeed 
  glued together on an angle. The angle is just a convenience, sighted people 
  tend to stand and reach so the firing point is put at an angle so that when 
  they reach the body of the gun slants down toward the nose which will then 
  be at right angles to the nail entry. It was fully 16 years ago, the guns 
  now are much more developed.

  There are coil wire guns too which cut and shoot. I have no idea why a 
  person would select one sort over the other or what the relative advantage 
  of one or other might be.

  I too have thought of getting a framing nailer but I don't anticipate doing 
  a lot of framing in the new future and really, it isn't driving nails that 
  slows me up compared with other things and there are real inconveniences 
  with dragging hoses about a building site.

  The fellow helping me made real speed nailing off roof decking, I ended up 
  laying out the sheets and couldn't really keep ahead of him walking up and 
  down the sheets shooting them onto the trusses. He could see to keep in line 
  along the trusses so, about as fast as I might strike each blow with a 
  hammer he was shooting in a nail. I would have to roughly measure then shoot 
  thus losing much of the advantage.

  When in form one can drive a three  a half
  twisted nail in half a dozen blows or less and sling the hammer on a work 
  belt without snagging hose.

  Now those damn roofing nails are another thing, just a little short to hold 
  happily and often the roof decking bounces just enough to launch the little 
  bliters. If ever I have to or choose to shingle a roof of any size again I 
  will be very interested in a power nailer.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:26 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] framing nail gun

   Hello folks,
  
   I am thinking of purchasing a air powered nail gun to do framing work. 
   The
   information I saw in one catalog talked about the lesser cost ones having 
   a
   fixed angle and the most expensive said it could do three different 
   angles..
   The nails were also sold according to the degree of angle needed. i got 
   the
   impression the nails were angled in the clip. I am guessing the 
   incorrect
   angle would not work in a preset gun, but might in the multi functional 
   one.
   Can someone inlighten me. Are the nails shot at angle. My air staplelers
   and tackers shoot them straight in. Would this mean you will habe to 
   toe
   nail joints together rather than through the plate into a stud?.
   Ron
  
  
  
  
   To listen to the show archives go to link
   http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
   or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
   http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  
   Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
   List Members At The Following address:
   http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  
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   -- 
   No virus found in this incoming message.
   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
   Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.17.12/653 - Release Date: 
   26/01/2007
  
   



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Changing a power chord

2007-01-28 Thread R S Enterprises
I will second Tom's advice , do any splicing inside the chassis.  As an 
electrician I have spliced many extension cords and such, BUT it is not legal 
nor wise..   Inside the chassis is like a junction box, quite legal so go for 
it.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 9:32 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Changing a power chord


  Hello,

  My father gave me an old Fender PA that was used in a church in the 60s.
  I put it on my shelf and was someday going to check it out. It has 6
  lines in with controls above each input for volume base, mid, and
  treble. I have not looked to see how many watts it is. But I plugged
  it in and it works. It is a tube amp and I am thrilled! 

  I have a few questions.

  The power chord has some exposed wires as it comes out of the back .
  There is actually about 1 inch of wire with its insulation before the
  bare spots. Is it a good idea to cut the wire after the bare spot and
  attach a new chord, wrapping the wires with electrical tape (or
  something else)? Or do I need to take the amp a part to connect the
  wires on the inside? Any idea what it may look like on the inside, if I
  go that route?

  I need a speaker cabinet for the PA. It is only a head. Would making a
  speaker cabinet be a good wood working project? Since I play guitar, I
  am thinking of maybe 4 12 inch speakers. I have never built a speaker
  cabinet , but I think it might be a good project. It will probably be
  used for my drum machine and keyboards as well. So if you can give me
  some ideas about speakers, size, and whether this is a good idea or not
  are welcome.

  I only tested the amp with headphones. I think I will need to hook a
  speaker up to test the out put before thinking of building a speaker
  cabinet.

  I appreciate any comments or suggestions.


  Keith


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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[BlindHandyMan] framing nail gun

2007-01-27 Thread R S Enterprises
Hello folks,

I am thinking of purchasing a air powered nail gun to do framing work.  The 
information I saw in one catalog talked about the lesser cost ones having a 
fixed angle and the most expensive said it could do three different angles.. 
The nails were also sold according to the degree of angle needed.  i got the 
impression the nails were angled in the clip.I am guessing the incorrect 
angle would not work in a preset gun, but might in the multi functional one. 
Can someone inlighten me.  Are the nails shot at angle.  My air staplelers 
and tackers shoot them straight in.Would this mean you will habe to toe 
nail joints together rather than through the plate into a stud?.
Ron 




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] (unknown) what's in a atic

2007-01-24 Thread R S Enterprises
It will span 24 inches without a problem.  If the ceiling joists are on 16 
center so much the better.  Chipboard is trees chipped into 1/2 to 4 inchips 
and then glued together. So it has no grain structure.  The 7/16 is used where 
they used to use 1/2 plywood so I guess it is similar in strength, but i have 
nothing to back that on.  
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 9:12 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] (unknown) what's in a atic


  Thanks,
  what about the 20ft spans?
  how does chipboard differ from plywood?
  is there more glue in it? Stronger, lighter?

  I was thinking 2X8 for the size of the hole.
  Right angles to the joists distributes the weight best?

  Anything else I should know?

  Thanks

  On Tue, 23 Jan 2007, R  S Enterprises wrote:

   The ceiling joists should be 2 by 6 normally. If they are part of a truss 
rafter system they may be 2 by 4. If they are 1 by anything I would forget 
storage unless very light stuff and not much. You should be able to walk on the 
thicker joists anywhere. Try to distributee your weight on two at a time.. I 
would suggest using the 7/16 inch chipboard they use for roof sheathing to make 
a floor up there. If your hole is large enough you can rip it into 2 foot by 8 
foot pieceses to get then up there. Lay them at right angles fo the joists and 
secure with at least 1 inch sheetrock screws.. You can nail it but run a risk 
of vibrating things loose.. Hopefully your insulation is higher than the 
ceiling joists. In that case you might consider adding two inch by what ever is 
necessary on top of the joists first so the insulation is not compressed, which 
will decrease its R factor.
   Ron
  
   - Original Message -
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 12:16 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] (unknown)
  
  
   question, what am I going to find?
   I would like to utilize the space under the peak of my roof.
   I have a brick house. I think there are cinder block walls on the dividing
   wall between me and the neighbor..
   Not sure there.
   But there is a space that is up to 6ft high above my living space.
   I want to climb up there. Hwever, when I bought the place there were
   plaster cracks quite near the closet hatch that accesses that area. The
   last owner's son was a rotund man. Thus I think that the area can't atke
   the weight of at least someone that big.
   I'm not carrying excess and weight under 170.
   My question is, in a house with internal width of 20ft, where there are
   not always load bearing walls, what will I find?
   Do they lay horizontal 1x2's on top of the masonery tops? What is the
   likely wood size which holds the plaster and lath ceiling? (1957's
   construction)? Regardless, if it's drywall, I don't want to risk it.
   Would it be 2x4?
   If so what length will I find?
   Are they running 2 10ft 2x4 and then using a sister joist type brace?
   I want to make a floor up there, by putting plywood down, with the pink
   stuff under it, and use that area
   for some storage. (seasonal stuff, once a year access for the artifical
   tree and ornaments and such.
   I want neither the worker, the flooring, nor the stoorage falling through
   or cracking the ceiling of the living space (dining room ) beneath.
   We patched and erpapered that ceiling at reasonable commercial rate.
   I guess when I'm looking around, I'll be hopping from load bearing wall to
   the next.
   WWhen flooring, how do I span the areas that have no load bearing wall
   beneath them?
   8ft ply won't spam the diningroom. Do I have to go to 12ft tongue and
   groove? That will outcost the plan quick.
   Please thoughts.
   Help, Thanks
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] (unknown) what's in a atic

2007-01-23 Thread R S Enterprises
The ceiling joists should be 2 by 6 normally.  If they are part of a truss 
rafter system they may be 2 by 4.  If they are 1 by anything I would forget 
storage unless very light stuff and not much.  You should be able to walk on 
the thicker joists anywhere.  Try to distributee your weight on two at a time.. 
 I would  suggest using the 7/16 inch chipboard they use for roof sheathing to 
make a floor up there.  If your hole is large enough you can rip it into 2 foot 
by 8 foot pieceses to get then up there.  Lay them at right angles fo the 
joists and secure with at least 1 inch sheetrock screws..  You can nail it but 
run a risk of vibrating things loose..  Hopefully your insulation is higher 
than the ceiling joists.  In that case you might consider adding two inch by 
what ever is necessary on top of the joists first so the insulation is not 
compressed, which will  decrease its R factor.
Ron

  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 12:16 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] (unknown)


  question, what am I going to find?
  I would like to utilize the space under the peak of my roof.
  I have a brick house. I think there are cinder block walls on the dividing 
  wall between me and the neighbor..
  Not sure there.
  But there is a space that is up to 6ft high above my living space.
  I want to climb up there. Hwever, when I bought the place there were 
  plaster cracks quite near the closet hatch that accesses that area. The 
  last owner's son was a rotund man. Thus I think that the area can't atke 
  the weight of at least someone that big.
  I'm not carrying excess and weight under 170.
  My question is, in a house with internal width of 20ft, where there are 
  not always load bearing walls, what will I find?
  Do they lay horizontal 1x2's on top of the masonery tops? What is the 
  likely wood size which holds the plaster and lath ceiling? (1957's 
  construction)? Regardless, if it's drywall, I don't want to risk it.
  Would it be 2x4?
  If so what length will I find?
  Are they running 2 10ft 2x4 and then using a sister joist type brace?
  I want to make a floor up there, by putting plywood down, with the pink 
  stuff under it, and use that area 
  for some storage. (seasonal stuff, once a year access for the artifical 
  tree and ornaments and such.
  I want neither the worker, the flooring, nor the stoorage falling through 
  or cracking the ceiling of the living space (dining room ) beneath.
  We patched and erpapered that ceiling at reasonable commercial rate.
  I guess when I'm looking around, I'll be hopping from load bearing wall to 
  the next.
  WWhen flooring, how do I span the areas that have no load bearing wall 
  beneath them?
  8ft ply won't spam the diningroom. Do I have to go to 12ft tongue and 
  groove? That will outcost the plan quick.
  Please thoughts.
  Help, Thanks



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes

2007-01-21 Thread R S Enterprises
Thanks Geof,
I'll have to check this out tomorrow.
Ron
ps.  The meter is still working great.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Geoff Eden 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 9:32 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes


  Frankly, they smell different. You can learn the smells by sniffing something 
that's galvanized, such as Eve trough metal, cheap lead acid batteries, or 
galvanized nails. The smell of iron comes best from something that is made of 
cast iron. If it doesn't smell, touch a corner with a file, and that will do 
it. If you're courageous, taste it.

  Geoff

  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 2:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes

  Very good question. I am not sure I have an answer. Many tiems galvanized is 
rougher inside or out, but I have also saw some really smooth. If one is buying 
I guess you will be depending on the clerk or whoever might be with you. In 
your existing house you are about limited to following them until you come to a 
known water appliance, device or a gas one. Not many people have air lines in 
their house I guess Some times you can scrape a piece of the zinc coating off 
the galvanized also. Ron. Once in awhile you can pull or scrape off pieces of 
the inc
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 1:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes

  ron,
  Can one tell the difference between black iron and galvanized steel by touch?
  or any other non-visual method?

  thanks
  Tom

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] removeing rivits

2007-01-21 Thread R S Enterprises
My normal choice is drilling.  If they happen to be pop rivets make sure to 
punch out the old center nail.
If there is room the head or peaned side can be ground off.with a grinder. If 
there is a washer under the pean I would chose that side since the rivet will 
tend to protect the finish of the remaining product.  You can use small 
grinding wheels that chuck into a drill or a small angle grinder.  
You didn't mention if these were copper or steel rivetts, but doesn't matter 
other than copper would tend to load  up the grinding wheel.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: clifford 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 7:08 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removeing rivits


  Dear Carl:
  I have removed rivets by drilling them out. Take care to find a bit that is 
just large enough to catch the rim of the rivet where it passes in to the 
material being held together. With a hand drill, this will not be the most 
precise work you have ever done, but that was the only choice available to me 
at the time. If others have better suggestions, then please ignore my 
suggestion.

  Yours Truly,

  Clifford Wilson
  - Original Message - 
  From: carlhickson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 1:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removeing rivits

  can anyone give me advice on removeing rivits i don't think thair pop rivits?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] antique vise

2007-01-20 Thread R S Enterprises
just to tag onto this  If you buy a round head bolt and buy a acorn nut to put 
on the end, then both ends will be smooth.  you will need to cut off the excess 
threads and file a  little afterwards to remove burrs so the acron nut will 
thread on, but I think you will be happy with the result.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2007 7:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antique vise


  This must be a pretty small vise, right?

  17/64 is just 1/64 larger than 1/4. Therefore, you can go to any good 
hardware store and buy a long grade 5 bolt for the handle. You could buy a 5 
long bolt, for instance. The bolt will only have about 1 of threads on it and 
the rest of the shank will be smooth. Buy a nut that fits the bolt and slip the 
bolt in the vise handle hole, tighten on the nut, hacksaw off the extra threads 
and file off any sharpies, and you're done. Just make sure you buy a grade 5 
bolt. Standard grade 2 bolts are much softer and will bend too easily. 

  You can, of course, choose whatever length bolt works best.

  Good Luck.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antique vise

  Good idea but it can not exceed 17/64 1/4 iron would be perfect. I really 
  do not want to use all thread.
  Lenny
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:56 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] antique vise

  A chunk of 3/4Ths inch hard maple dowell with larger chunks
  screwed to its ends might do well.

  Get it at any hardware store and sand it up a bit give it few
  coats of oil finish and it'll out last you, maybe!

  Tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes

2007-01-18 Thread R S Enterprises
Very good question.  I am not sure I have an answer.  Many tiems galvanized is 
rougher inside or out, but I have also saw some really smooth.  If one is 
buying I guess you will be depending on the clerk or whoever might be with you. 
 In your existing house you are about limited to following them until you come 
to a known water appliance, device or a gas one.  Not many people have air 
lines in their house I guess  Some times you can scrape a piece of the zinc 
coating off the galvanized also.
Ron.  Once in awhile you can pull or scrape off pieces of the inc
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 1:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes


  ron,
  Can one tell the difference between black iron and galvanized steel by touch?
  or any other non-visual method?

  thanks
  Tom



   

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[BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes

2007-01-17 Thread R S Enterprises
Ray gave us a couple of very good posts on copper and iron pipes.  I would 
like to add a couple of points from my mistakes.
 Galvanized pipe is for water.
Black iron is for gas and air.  You don't want the galvanizeed particles 
coming off and blocking gas orfices or damaging air tools.
If you have to bury gas pipe, look for the approved plastic or the plastic 
wrapped black iron, don't bury the raw black iron.
Believe it or not copper tubing can flake off inside and block some gas 
orfices.  Our local gas company will not turn on gas to installations 
haveing copper lines.
Ron




To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

2007-01-16 Thread R S Enterprises
Well I do not know how simple you want it but most basements are pretty low 
ceilings.  There froe you can touch the bulbs with your hand.  If it is hot it 
is on.
Crude, but you siad simple.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: carlhickson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 12:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off


  thair is one called fire angle but whair you can get it i don't kno and that 
is a smoake alarm
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 5:53 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Hi All,
  I am looking for a simple solution to the problem of knowing if the basement 
lights are on or off.
  Some days I can detect if the light is on but not all of the time.
  Years ago I had a neat smoke detector that screwed into a light socket and 
the bulb then screwed into this detector. The unit had rechargeable batteries. 
Whenever you turned on the light the unit would beep letting you know it was 
charging. I haven't seen any of them in years. Is there some alarm that will 
beep when the lights are turned on?

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

2007-01-16 Thread R S Enterprises
This is good and simple also.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 1:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off


  Hi, Why don't you get one of the light sockets that screws into the light 
socket that has plugs in it then plug a radio into it leave it on just enough 
so you can hear it..
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Hi All,
  I am looking for a simple solution to the problem of knowing if the basement 
lights are on or off.
  Some days I can detect if the light is on but not all of the time.
  Years ago I had a neat smoke detector that screwed into a light socket and 
the bulb then screwed into this detector. The unit had rechargeable batteries. 
Whenever you turned on the light the unit would beep letting you know it was 
charging. I haven't seen any of them in years. Is there some alarm that will 
beep when the lights are turned on?

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] More on the cedar closet project.

2007-01-16 Thread R S Enterprises
If you are using a router to cut dado's I like to lay both sides down flat like 
on sawhorses.  Clamp them so they are even on the ends.  I then clamp the guide 
over both sides and cut both left and right side in one pass.  At least both 
dado's line up from one side to the other.  Note of course the guide must be at 
90 degrees to the verticle sides.  Close measurments from the ends and checking 
with a square should confirm this.  
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] More on the cedar closet project.


  The next step on my radio desk is cutting the dados. Thanks for the lesson 
  Dan and Mickey.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:49 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] More on the cedar closet project.

   An easy way to make dados on opposite sides of a cabinet line up when 
   using a router to make the dados is to clamp them together so that one 
   setup for a particular dado does them both at the same time. For example, 
   you would lay both sides on a bench with the inside faces of the side 
   facing up and the edges that are the back of the cabinet touching each 
   other. Flush up the tops and bottoms and put a couple of clamps across 
   them to hold them in place. Now you can set up your guide and run the 
   router to do both sides at once. As long as you keep everything square, 
   the dados will always line up with each other.
  
   Good luck with your project.
  
  
  
   - Original Message - 
   From: Dan Rossi
   To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 1:32 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] More on the cedar closet project.
  
  
   Micky,
  
   You are correct. It is Western Red Cedar, not aromatic. I keep making
   that mistake, I guess it is because of how fragrant it is when I am
   working with it.
  
   anyway, the wife had off on Monday for MLK day, so I was jealous and took
   the day off as well. I spent some quality time in the basement screwing
   up my closet. and I don't mean putting screws into it.
  
   On Saturday I had routed the dados on the inside of one of the closet
   walls. I did all the math, distance from rail to rail minus the thickness
   of the floor and ceiling. Minus the thickness of three shelves, divide by
   four. Take into account the radius of the router shoe, the radius of the
   cutter. Clamp up a guide rail, take measurements, square everything to
   hell and back. Route the first dado. Move everything, measure measure
   measure. Square square square. Measure a bit more. rout the second
   dado. Move everything again. measure? OK, two short shelves and one
   tall shelf is probably a better design anyway. Who wants three evenly
   spaced shelves? Too rigid, too uniform. We need more variation in our
   lives.
  
   Monday, the big trick, making the dados on the other closet wall to line
   up exactly with the first set. Measure measure measure. Calculate.
   Measure. Calculate some more. You know that saying, always go with your
   first choice? Anyway, rout the first dado. Line up the two panels next
   to each other. After I finished screaming, throwing a few small items,
   kicking the work bench, and absolutely stunned as to why the bottom of 
   the
   one dado lines up precisely with the top of the dado I just cut, it dawns
   on me that I forgot to take into account the thickness of the floor on
   Mondays cut.
  
   OK, I can recover. I'll have to widen out the dado so that the top edge
   of the new dado lines up with the top of the old one. I'll just have to
   cut a quarter inch strip off some scrap and glue it in to fill the gap.
  
   I opted for a different plan for the next two dados. I had my doubts, but
   gave it a try. I tried lining up the panels side by side. I clamped the
   rails together to make as sure as possible that the dados were in the 
   same
   relative positions to the bottom rails. I put the router into the far end
   of the dado on the finished panel. I turned the cutter so that it was at
   it's widest position. I loosely clamped one end of a guide stick down.
   Moved the router to the end of the dado near where it ran into the new
   board that hadn't been routed yet. Did the same thing and clamped that
   end of the guide stick. Now I had a guide that was perfectly parallel to
   the dado. Some measuring proved this to be true as well.
  
   It worked very nicely. Just took for ever since I had to do this two
   times for each dado. I made the mistake of 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Progress report on back yard shop.

2007-01-16 Thread R S Enterprises
Just a thought.  Our city requires sheds to be anchored with trailer tie downs 
screwed into the ground.  Fence anchors screwed to the ground and fastened to 
the shed with cable and clamps seems to work.  Of course we are part of that 
great tornado alley, but strong winds might shift some off blocks.
No sorry to say my little 4 by 8 shed is not fastened down.  the 10 by 16 I am 
planing I hope to run a slab with piers and bolt the bottom plates into the 
concrete.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:36 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Progress report on back yard shop.


  The building is still under construction by the supplier. They will deliver 
  it on a 20 ton truck when it is finished. The ground is quite soft now 
  because of all the rain. We'll have to wait for the ground to dry so they 
  won't get stuck. I have decided to put it on concrete blocks. A friend is 
  going to pick up some solid blocks for me before the building gets here. 
  The radio desk is on hold until I get the building. Also I'll need to wire 
  it for electricity. I already have that figured out, just a matter of 
  buying the supplies and doing the job.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] self repairing paint

2007-01-12 Thread R S Enterprises
I experenced something similar.  I had used latex varnish on a table top and my 
sister put a cloth over it.  After some time the finish took on the texture of 
the cloth.  I don't remember if it healed itself or not but I decided I would 
not use latex on any top surfaces again.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 9:38 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] self repairing paint


  Hi All,
  We sure had an interesting phenomena with a painted railing.
  This railing was painted about 3 years ago so the paint is totally cured by 
now especially in a home with hot air heat.
  Anyway a little while ago my daughter washed a sweater and was going to put 
it on a drying rack. She received a phone call and draped it over the railing 
to take the call. She left the house and forgot about the sweater until the 
next day. When I removed it the paint was totally messed up. It was actually 
textured. No paint came off the railing on the sweater or my hands. But it was 
really messed up. A week later we were going to repaint the railing and to our 
surprise it was nice and smooth again. It repaired itself. I never experienced 
anything like that. Too bad it won't renew it's look in a few years.

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem

2007-01-11 Thread R S Enterprises
If there was a photo eye problem you would not hear the motor trying to do 
anything.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem


 Look and see if there is any obstructions in the way. The best way to do
 this is pull the emergency cord and see if the door will go up manually.
 Check and see if the electric safety eyes are lined up with each other.
 RJ
 - Original Message - 
 From: brice mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 7:42 AM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem


 Yesterday I was sitting in the garage when my wife came home, and when 
 she
 tried to open the garage door, the motor started working, but the door
 wouldn't go up.  So after telling her to stop trying to open the door
 because something was wrong, I went back in there and check to make sure
 the
 chain didn't jump off the sprocket, and the cable didn't come off the
 pulley.  Okay, I check both the sprocket and pulley, and both were okay.
 Today, I'm going to look for a reset button, but doubt there is one.  Has
 anyone ever experienced this problem, and if so, how did you solve it?  I
 hate to have to call for a repair man to come out, these bastards cost to
 damn much.



 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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 list just send a blank message to:
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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 list just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen cabinets

2007-01-11 Thread R S Enterprises
I guess I have done it both ways.  If you will be trying to use the kitchen 
during the time of construction I think you and spouse will be happyer if you 
build them elsewhere and install as built units.  The time you are out of a 
sink etc will be much less, not even considering the mess.  Finishing can also 
be better done out of the living area.  
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:07 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen cabinets


  Hi all.
  My wife found out that they are not going to renew her contract, so we are
  going to be moving. In order to make our house more sellable, there are
  some projects I want to get done. The first, and maybe the most important
  is the kitchen. We have old metal cabinets, and they are not and good
  condition, and the layout is not very good.

  Instead of building each individual cabinet, I was thinking about building
  them in place. has anyone ever done it this way? Is it more difficult then
  building the cabinets individually and installing them? Any tips or
  techniques to keep in mind for either method of building them?

  thanks,
  Michael

  More questions to come later.


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler

2007-01-10 Thread R S Enterprises
May I say my chin is also used as a hold down on the mitre saw to be able to 
measure to the blade.  Just the thing to do isn't it.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:08 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler


  Dale,
  I liked your description of using the ruler to set up your miter saw. I 
  thought that I was the only one who used his chin or cheek to hold down the 
  saw to align the stock. I don't know how many times my wife made a comment 
  when she saw me doing that. Now I can tell her that it is the proper way to 
  set up the saw.
  Great description of the tool and use.
  Lenny
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] quesion on Rotomatic ruler

  You have done pretty well at describing the rule.

  The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut is
  the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if
  you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even to
  use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.

  You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the
  rectangular nut, this is to help orient it.

  You are correct, the half inch marks are where a thread is continued all
  around the face of the milled side of the threaded rod. Each revolution of
  the nut represents one sixteenth of an inch so, half a turn is a 32nd of an
  inch and a quarter turn is a 64th. two complete turns is an eighth of an
  inch and so on.

  If you require more than 6 inches then you thread the 6 inch rod bringing
  your measure up as far as 12 and a half inches, add the 12 inch rod or the
  18 inch rod or any combination there of and you have the lengths you
  require.

  What I really like about the measure is that I can set a size off of a plan
  or I can take a measure from a project, lock the nut into place then go to
  my miter saw and pressing the end of the rod against the blade, adjust the
  wood to be cut until it is flush with the nut and cut an exact size. I
  frequently end up with a bit of a bruise on my chin from holding the saw
  down against the board, I do have a bungee cord hanging on the cabinet I can
  use to hold the saw down to the wood while I set the distance precisely but
  this takes time and I often don't bother.

  I can as easily use it to very accurately set the distance from rip fence to
  blade on my table saw and so on.

  This is of course not adequate beyond 42 and a half inches although I
  suppose you could get more rod if you need or want it.

  I do try to keep a stick or two around here precisely 4 feet long but rarely
  do I need it. Even when I raised this addition it was mostly fine to use the
  dimensional lumber and/or relative measures with a locking tape measure. I
  used a block to space studs, locking tape measure to determine the actual
  length of span for building the roof trusses, I didn't actually even have
  the roto ruler back then but a folding meter stick ruler.

  A tactile ruler though just isn't accurate enough for cabinet work and
  hardly for structural framing. Things like carpenter squares known to be 24
  on the two inch leg and 16 on the inch and a half leg can also be helpful in
  frame construction.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:00 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] quesion on Rotomatic ruler

   Ok folks, I ordered my Rotomatic and received it today. Ain't quite
   what I imagined and upon further thought, I haven't any clue how the
   hell you use this thing. So, here goes my question .
   First let me describe what I have to be sure we're all on the same page.
  
   I have a piece about six inches long, it is sort of oval shaped, in
   other words, its flat on both sides and is rounded on the edges so
   the nuts will turn. The top surface has marking at every half inch I
   believe this is the correct measurement,b ut in any case, we'll move
   along. There are two nuts, one that is completely square and the
   other is a six or eight-sided deal. Included are three rods that are
   different lengths, one six inch, one approx 12 inches, and one that
   appears to be about 18 inches. Sorry, I haven't even had a chance to
   measure the pieces, but for our purposes, this will explain things.
   Now each rod which is round can be screwed together and the six-inch
   piece I said had the nuts is also able to be attached to the rods.
   Now I assume that the square nut might be the locking nut, but don't
   hold me to this.
   Now, with that description, 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler

2007-01-10 Thread R S Enterprises
I used to have a terrible time with screw holes in hinges shifting them around 
until I found a tapered drill guide to drill the pilot holes with.  I think I 
bought two or three to fit the range of screw sizes but they make a difference 
in centering the pilot hole.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler


  Hi Ron and Lenny,

  I do have a bungee cord which I sometimes wrap around the handle and hook to 
  a drawer in the cabinet I made for the saw to hold it down while I measure 
  but I don't use it all that often.

  Just now I am struggling to properly aline these drawer slides. They are 
  actually pretty wonderful slides however the outer segment which attaches to 
  the cabinet wall is a full inch wider than the removable segment which 
  attaches to the drawer side and all I have is about a 16th tolerance. Even 
  with a center punch somehow those damn screws don't quite go exactly where 
  they should. I was out the thickness of sand paper so the bottom edge of 
  one side drags! Nothing for it but to fine tune it with the belt sander.

  Tomorrow I have two half sized drawers to fit in the space on the other side 
  of the partition, jigging them precisely will be a real challenge. In 
  general I like the sort which attach to the bottom edge, simplifies locating 
  the slides on the drawer considerably and the wall mounted members quite a 
  bit.

  Oh well, nothing for it but to be patient.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler

   May I say my chin is also used as a hold down on the mitre saw to be able 
   to measure to the blade. Just the thing to do isn't it.
   Ron
   - Original Message - 
   From: Lenny McHugh
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:08 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler
  
  
   Dale,
   I liked your description of using the ruler to set up your miter saw. I
   thought that I was the only one who used his chin or cheek to hold down 
   the
   saw to align the stock. I don't know how many times my wife made a 
   comment
   when she saw me doing that. Now I can tell her that it is the proper way 
   to
   set up the saw.
   Great description of the tool and use.
   Lenny
   - Original Message - 
   From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:41 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] quesion on Rotomatic ruler
  
   You have done pretty well at describing the rule.
  
   The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut 
   is
   the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used 
   when/if
   you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even 
   to
   use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.
  
   You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the
   rectangular nut, this is to help orient it.
  
   You are correct, the half inch marks are where a thread is continued all
   around the face of the milled side of the threaded rod. Each revolution 
   of
   the nut represents one sixteenth of an inch so, half a turn is a 32nd of 
   an
   inch and a quarter turn is a 64th. two complete turns is an eighth of an
   inch and so on.
  
   If you require more than 6 inches then you thread the 6 inch rod bringing
   your measure up as far as 12 and a half inches, add the 12 inch rod or 
   the
   18 inch rod or any combination there of and you have the lengths you
   require.
  
   What I really like about the measure is that I can set a size off of a 
   plan
   or I can take a measure from a project, lock the nut into place then go 
   to
   my miter saw and pressing the end of the rod against the blade, adjust 
   the
   wood to be cut until it is flush with the nut and cut an exact size. I
   frequently end up with a bit of a bruise on my chin from holding the saw
   down against the board, I do have a bungee cord hanging on the cabinet I 
   can
   use to hold the saw down to the wood while I set the distance precisely 
   but
   this takes time and I often don't bother.
  
   I can as easily use it to very accurately set the distance from rip fence 
   to
   blade on my table saw and so on.
  
   This is of course not adequate beyond 42 and a half inches although I
   suppose you could get more rod if you need or want it.
  
   I do try to keep a stick or two around here precisely 4 feet long but 
   rarely
   do I need it. Even when I raised this addition it was mostly fine to use

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-08 Thread R S Enterprises
The latex or rubber ones used by many to hand wash dishes can be used.  If you 
still feel some fear put on a pair of leather ones over the rubber.  You can 
also use a pair of well insulated pliers to grab onto the connectors and pull 
the wires out that way.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 9:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  thanks Ron, I was picturing an extra junction box up in the crawl
  space but of course the light ceiling box is right there in the
  hall so that's likely the point where everything might be
  accessible.

  I did check all the breakers of course and all the fuses. I
  don't think it's likely on the neighbor's circuit as not at all
  close to the common wall which is thankfully between the garages.

  looking for a good set of rubber gloves first of course.

  Tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-08 Thread R S Enterprises
Well how safe do you want to be?  The snug super thin Doctor exam glove would 
have enough insulation value, but how well do they protect from puncture of 
ends of wires or sharp corners.  Hence the suggestion for leather outer 
protectors as they are technically called.  They make a fairly substansal latex 
glove used for hand dishwashing or other messy duties that with leather gloves 
over will protect quite well.  The feeling feedback kind of sucks, but one 
can't have everything.  As for working inside the panel box, remember we are 
protecting against the voltage or voltage pressure that might go through your 
insulated gloves.  The voltage to ground is the same there as in the outlet 
box, 120 .  If you touch both bus bars with opposite hands then you have a 
possibility of 240 volts across the heart.  Therefore some people try to work 
with one hand in their pocket.  I could never do this, but it is a suggestion.  
I don't see any reason you shouldn't be able to replace the two pole 240 
breaker with two 20 amp breakers.  Make sure you are connecting number 12 wire 
to them for the new circuit.  In some brands they make a tandem breaker which 
fits into a single space and has two ciruits of 120 volts.  Both are on the 
same leg so there is not 240 between but it is a easy way to add additional 
circuit spaces without a new box if yours is out of space.  So you might be 
able to remove the two pole 240 volt breaker and end up with four circuits.  
Westinghouse, GE and Square D are the brands that come to mind that have made 
them.  You may have to go to a electrical supplier to get them.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 6:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  This brings up a question on my part. 120 volts itself is painful, 
  but less likely to kill you than lets say poking about inside a 200 
  amp breaker box. So how thick does a set of rubber gloves need to be 
  for handling just a simple 120 15 amp circuit and how thick would 
  gloves need to be to poke about in a 200 amp breaker box. I'm talking 
  about putting your gloved hand on the bussbar. grin Seriously thoughI 
  am curious. I've a project coming up that I'd like to perform, but 
  I'm needing to possibly work with a situation where handling a 120 
  volt line is necessary since I have no clue where the hell the 
  breaker is for this circuit. Once I get these projects done, I'm 
  making a sheet up in braille and print that clearly indicates what 
  breaker controls which circuit and where. I also have a 240 volt 
  breaker in my box that I'd like to remove and convert into two 120 15 
  amp circuits or possible 20 amp circuits if the box will handle it. I 
  will probably get a friend who is a master electrician to do this,b 
  ut I am curious what I can do on my own and with as muc safety in 
  mind as possible. Obviously any dead circuit is a good circuit.

  tnx

  Scott
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] checking for power

2007-01-08 Thread R S Enterprises
Auto wiring is D C.  On a tangent a cars alternater is a three phase A C 
generator inside, but the rectifiers inside only let D C  come out.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert j. moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 7:32 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] checking for power


  Hi
  I should know this but is automotive wiring a c or d c?
  I asume since it uses a battery it is d c but not sure.
  reason I ask is, will this thing work on auto wiring?
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Howell
  Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 6:55 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] checking for power

  Got me one of these I paid um maybe $20 for and its a handy tool.
  Just rubbing it along a wire will help locate breaks etc. To bad it
  only works with ac lines and not dc, that would be most handy.

  Scott
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  On Jan 8, 2007, at 10:49 AM, Lenny McHugh wrote:

   Hi All,
   I have a different make of this tool But they all work the same. I
   found this description on the net. AC Voltage Detector
   Model 9600
   Triplett AC Voltage Detector
  
   list of 6 items
   . Easy and economical way to check for AC voltage.
   . Safe, non-contact voltage probe.
   . Checks 50 to 600V AC.
   . Visual (light flashes) and audible (beeper chirps) alerts when AC
   voltage is present.
   . Quickly locates hot and neutral terminals in wire outlet and also
   locates breaks in wires.
   . Five year limited warranty.
   I saw a similar product at Lowe's. I always use this when replacing
   outlets or adding a circuit.
   list end
  
   Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-08 Thread R S Enterprises
Yes replacing a 15 amp breaker with a 20 has been done a lot just to prevent so 
called nuisence tripping, but it still anin't right.  Still not as bad as 
putting the 30 amp time delay plug fuses on a no. 14 wire as I have witnessed 
in many older homes.  In my personal no. 14 wire should only be used for signal 
and control circuits.  Perhaps smoke, fire detection in residences.  Any light 
or power circuits need to no. 12 on a 20 amp circiit otherwise you are wasting 
panel space and wire.  Again just a personal bias.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 8:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  Thanks Ron, I wasn't overly sure where the dialectric or the 
  breakdown point at which the insulating value would be over run by 
  the current. I would certianly do my level best to never touch the 
  busbar with both hands, but more a possible rub against it or 
  something. I'd like just call the electric company and ask they pull 
  the meter head for a couple of hours or just kill all the power in 
  the box from the main switch and stay away from the upper half. I 
  forget how the box is laid out, but I believe there's a portion where 
  its hot even when the main switch is opened , but the box is 
  effectively dead. Like I said, I'd probably get someone who is 
  licensed to at least supervise to be sure I don't do something 
  against code. The prior owners were super stupid people. They had 
  several 20-amp breakers on circuits rated for 15 amps which created 
  one hell of a potential problem and to think they had children living 
  in the house. So, they were made to replace those before we would 
  settle on the house. Amazing what people will do and risks they'll 
  take. And to think if there had been a fire, an insurance company 
  would never had paid that claim.

  Scott
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] palm air nailer

2007-01-07 Thread R S Enterprises
The only palm nailer I ever used was the latter that was used with regular 
nails.  It was just a substitue for a hand held hammer and took several blows 
to put nails in.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: carlhickson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 11:50 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] palm air nailer


  is thes a a nalor likte the strips of knails or a stricker for use with 
normal knails?
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 5:08 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] palm air nailer

  for you who have air compressors, you might like the idea of an air 
  nailer that one holds in the palm of the hand. Harbor Freight is 
  selling one for $39. It handles most sizes of nailers, delivers 
  about 1000 blows per minute and can be run with 100 pounds of pressure.

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/618 - Release Date: 1/6/2007 7:47 
PM

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] ordering cabinets from Menards

2007-01-07 Thread R S Enterprises
If you have any thought and want to take these cabinets you number one don't 
want to remove any tile.  Also most cabinets screwed to the wall are considered 
part of the house structure and are intended to pe left when moving.  So no 
don't fasten them to the wall.  They asked about back splash.  If you have the 
molded style that is curved and part of the top you have nothing to worry 
about.  If it is the style with square corners that is intended to be glued to 
the wall you will need to fasten it the top with screws through the top and 
into the backsplash.  I would then cut a hole in the back where the outlets 
are. plug an extension cord in and bring it up to the top whereever you want 
it.  I would attach two or three strips to the back the thickness of the cord 
so the cabinets will not smash it.  So when you move unplug the cords move the 
cibmets and clean the line along the tile floor and everything is back to 
normal.  Do not plug in an extension cord without cutting a hole.  It would un 
accessable which is a definite code violation.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim Ruby 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:06 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ordering cabinets from Menards


  Hi,

  I have ordered 3 cabnets from menards and a counter top plus everything to
  put it all together. It is my understanding all I am going to need to do
  is:

  1. screw the cabnets together
  2. place slats on the top of the cabnets and screw the counter top on to the
  slats.

  I am told I have to screw the cabnets to the wall, but I do not want to do
  this in case I wish to move it at a later date. So my questions:

  1. is this something easily done or is there things I have not thought of.
  Btw: these are cabnets that will sit on the floor. I see most of my cabnets
  in the kitchen are sitting on the wood floor they did not put tile down. Is
  it ok to place these cabnets on my tile or will it reck it over time?

  2. I have two plugins that will be blocked behind the cabnets I am not sure
  how I want to get access to them.

  1. cut holes in the counter and back of the cabnet. I'd hate to spill
  something then it would be a mess inside the cabnet as well.

  2. just running flat heavyduty extention coard the small ones out the sides
  of the cabnet or out to the top as behind the cabnet is a half wall and have
  them go in to a serge protecter so appliences can be plugged in.

  Anyone have any suggestions?
  Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions.



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

2007-01-05 Thread R S Enterprises
This is a very idea to check first.  I would usually remove the main cover and 
check power on the breaker or fuse.  Amazing how many breakers will be tripped 
and not appear to be.  
As for doing without it I don't see any hazard.  If the light is flickering off 
and on then you have sparking which is not good.
If you wish to fix this I would open up the switch box first, then the outlet 
box and finally the ceiling box.  At one of these places I would guess a wire 
connection has corrorded or overheated.  You did say a electric heater had been 
on this.  These can be heavy current pullers and if it was a marginal 
connection to begin with it may have overheated and broken down..  But I am 
betting that puulling wires out of the boxes will show something coming apart 
in your hand.  If you turn the light to the on position and plug a light into 
the outlet and have someone watching one or both may flash as soon as you get 
into a box which helps locate the problem.  A good pair of leather or rubber 
gloves would be advised if you have real poor vision.  Once it stays on a 
little then you can find the correct breaker to shut off.  Killing the main 
should shut it off but not if it is wired from the other residence.  Good luck.
Yes it might even be in a outlet just before these two.  Banging on the wall 
around these others may show something if the first three don't show something. 
 If not then you would have to open up everything close to the area.  
Most people will wire so all junctions are accessable from the living quarter 
but it isn't impossible.  The junctions just have to be assesible, not easy 
access.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: NLG 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 8:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:


  I would suspect that there is a blown fuse or tripped breaker. You said 
duplex. Is there separate electrical services for each of the two residences? 
If so, you should check all the fuses or breakers for both residents. You may 
find a blown fuse or tripped breaker for your neighbor that is for the 
receptacle and light in the hall.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 20:38
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Electric house wiring question:

  In our 1960s build duplex, we have a single outlet and a hall
  light that have failed. Due to this failure I moved the portable
  heater which was the only thing on that outlet to anothere socket,
  unknowingly putting it on the same circuit as a bathroom ceiling
  fan/heater combo. Not surprisingly when both heaters were on, the
  fuse blew.

  Replaced the fuse, all is well and we'll just not run both
  heaters at same time. There is no where else to plug in the
  portable heater.

  My questions are:
  1. how paranoid should I be about a single portion of a circuit
  that has failed? If I can do without that socket and light, can
  I just forget them?

  2. If not, how might one go about figuring out what's wrong? I
  don't even know which circuit the failed systems are on. I
  believe the wiring is in the attic crawl space which is now full
  of glass insulation, so not a wonderfull place to go crawling
  about following wires even were I so inclined.

  Thoughts from those with more house type experience would be
  appreciated. I do not want to call an electrician unless real
  danger might be involved, I can do without the outlet and hall
  light.

  thanks

  tom

  Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] rail repair

2007-01-02 Thread R S Enterprises
Well thinking of the easy one. Once you have one stud found another should be 
16 or 24 inches from it.  If not drill the hole there.  Using a wire stuck 
through the hole feel around for the stud.  Note it the wire is smaller than 
the hole a ninety degree bend about 2 or 3 inches from the end going into the 
wall will permit a real good feel for what is close to the first hole.  Good 
fishing.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 4:32 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] rail repair


  Hello folks and Happy New Year,

  I have a problem and I'm not sure exactly what to do about it. I 
  installed some oak hand rails in the stairwell in my house. Now a 
  friend of mine helped since he had the saw I needed at the time. We 
  had one hell of a time finding studs to attach the rail too. However, 
  with some expander/toggle bolts we got the job done and it seems to 
  be holding where it was necessary. Now the reason we did this is that 
  at certain points we just couldn't find anything to attach the rail 
  too no matter how much that stud finder said there was a stud there 
  and even tapping indicated it was correct. However, as we drilled we 
  found there must have been very thin wood of some sort that held the 
  drywall up.
  So, here's the problem. I got one end of the rail very secure cause 
  there we need to hit a stud, but at the mid and top part the toggle 
  bolts aren't holding as well as they should. My first thought was to 
  drive a screw through the end of the rail and into the wall because 
  as far as I can tell, at that curved piece at the top of the rail 
  which is against the wall, there appears to be a stud present. The 
  problem is drilling through the oak, driving the screw in, and then 
  filling the hole so you wouldn't notice the hole was there. My second 
  idea is considerably more nuts and that was to go to the stairwell 
  next to the problem area, drill through the wall, drive the screw in 
  so it grabbs the rail on the otherside of the wall and at least there 
  would be an easier patch to be performed. So, now that I've confused 
  folks with my explanation, has any one got any ideas? The rail isn't 
  coming off the wall, but its not as stirdy as it should be.

  tnx
  Scott
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] removeing dents from car boddy work

2006-12-20 Thread R S Enterprises
Well you did not say where this dent was.  If you can get behind it as in 
inside the car a block of wood and a hammer will work fine.  If inside is not a 
option sometimes a rubber sink plunger can do wonders.  A lot depends on the 
size of the dent.  Water or oil on the rubber to insure a good seal and the 
suction can hold tight enough for you to pull the dent out.  Another choice is 
a slide hammer puller.  these can be rented.  You drill a small hole, insert a 
screw , attach the slide hammer and bang with it until the dent pulls out.  I 
actually have not used this process.  Remember you will have to patch the screw 
hole.  Some people just buy some Bondo putty, fill the dent, sand and such, 
then prime and repaint.  Nothing really good and non destructive.  If it is 
plastic the heat of a  hair dryer might cause it to pop out.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: carlhickson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 7:45 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removeing dents from car boddy work


  hi their my mum dented the car bringing it threw the gate because some fool 
parked in the way how can I remove them?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches

2006-12-12 Thread R S Enterprises
I don't know about the other countrries but in the U S the equipment ground 
wire is bare in the romex style cable.  In stranded flexible rubber cord it is 
insulated green.  And in the case of three way switches we use three wires plus 
the eqquipment ground making a total of four.  These being black, red,white and 
bare in the romex.   
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches


  Hi Dale,

  Although I am blind now, and realize that things may have changed in the last 
four and a half years that I have been blind, however, having said that, I do 
know that in some cases, you can opt to go with the bare ground wire, or, if it 
makes you feel better, you can get the ground wire with a green housing.

  In essence, the three wires come in three colours, black, white and green or 
bare, depending on what you choose to go with.

  Victor

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches

2006-12-11 Thread R S Enterprises
Scott you seem  to have a fair handle on the concept.  When I taught jjunior 
high general shop I explained to look at the three way switching configeration 
as one big regular single pole switch.  The two indentified or commmon terminal 
as the two terminals on a regular switch.  The power coming in one and out the 
other to the light.  Think of the wires as rubber that can be stretched 
wherever they need to go.  The two traverler terminals just fasten from one 
switch to the other.  Which to which doesn't matter.  You may use cable with 
white wires in it but technically you need to change the color at each exposed 
end.  This is done with paint or colored tape.  Blue usually being the 
preferred color.  When wires are put in conduit as singles wires both travelers 
are the same color such as two reds, or two blues since which of the traveler 
or sometimes called runner terminal..As one person put it the white wire 
runs from the load, a light fixture here to the netural bar of the panel bo  
In you case if I understand it correctly you would remove the existing switch.  
Run a length of three conductor cable with ground to the location of the new 
switch.  I then would use the black wires to connect one of the new cable to 
the new switch common terminal.  At the existing location one of the existing 
loose blacks will be spliced to the black of the new cable.  The other existing 
black will hook  to the common terminal.  The new cable wires red and white you 
are technically turning blue will hook to the traverler, runner terminals at 
each switch.

Ron.

- Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches


  Hello all,

  My name as the e-mail header indicates is Scott Howell. I live in 
  Mount AIry Maryland and have been blind since birth. I have learned a 
  lot of my handyman activities just by figuring out things on my own 
  and with a few questions. Can't say everything I've done was pretty, 
  but I got the job done. I've done lots of plumbing, electrical, and 
  some other repairs like hanging doors and the like.
  I however have a few projects of the electrical variety and one of 
  those I have to admit I'm not overly sure of.
  I have a need to install a 3-way switch arrangement. What I have is a 
  bathroom where the fools that built this place put the switch clear 
  on the otherside of the room near a secondary door and not near the 
  main door off the hall.
  So, my understanding is that I would remove the old switch, I'd need 
  two 3-way switches, and 3 conductor cable with ground so that makes 
  four wires total. Now what I'm not overly clear on is how to rig this 
  up. I understand basic switches to a light fixture in that power 
  comes into the switch and I'm essentually making a loop from the 
  fixture back to the switch. Now, I do know a 3-way switch has one 
  common terminal and two traveler terminals as well as a ground. Now I 
  also understand that I need to rig things up so that when one switch 
  is closed, the other is able to break the circuit.
  At this point I'm getting fuzzy and not clear how to physically wire 
  this up. Here's what I think and please any advise would be 
  greatfully appreciated.

  1. The light fixture is still wired in a loop configuration like it 
  would with a regular switch were there, I would hook the hot wire to 
  the common terminal on the the switch, connect the black wire we'll 
  call it, now I'd hook a white to the traveler, and maybe the other's 
  red can't recall, but that would go to the other traveler, and at the 
  other end of this I'd be hooking up the same wires, black to common, 
  white to another traveler, and red to the other traveler. Of course 
  ground to ground throughout.
  Now I'm probably wrong on this, but I figure someone here has done 
  this and would have some answers and I'd sure appreciate the help.
  Now I've been listening to the Blind Handyman show and its just great 
  and a valuable service.

  Thanks to all in advance.

  Scott
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches

2006-12-11 Thread R S Enterprises
Well Dale I agree with you .  In my thirty plus years of wiring and such I 
never found or saw a wauy to make sure two three way switches could determine 
the light being on or off by a cetian position..  So throw in a couple of four 
ways and scratch ones head through the skull deep into the gray matter
Mainly not worth the trouble and who cares..  
Now for those of you that do care.  I spent a little time with a diagram and if 
physical positions were carefully observed two three ways can be wired so if 
both are in the up position or the down then the light will be on.  If they are 
opposite the light is off.  But is the effort worth it?.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 5:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches


  There is no way I know of to have both switches the same way all of the 
  time. Maybe someone can explain it to me.

  Let us just walk this through.

  Assuming both switches are in the down position to begin with the lights 
  off:

  Enter at door a and flip the switch up to turn on the light. now switch a is 
  up and switch b is down and the light is on.

  Leave through door b and turn off the light. That switch be will now be up 
  with the light off. Now you have both switches in the up position but the 
  light is off. If you then enter from A again you will have to push the 
  switch down to turn the light on. The position of the switches will be 
  random according to the sequence of their use.

  The post below is the second referring to synchronizing the switch positions 
  as if there is some way to do this by the wiring. I must be missing 
  something but I can't figure it. None of my double switches here and I have 
  wired six double switches and one four switch circuit are marked top or 
  bottom or on or off. I always assumed this was why, there is no guarantee 
  about which state they will be in at any time.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:06 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches

   Scott,
   If power is coming in to your switch now, and the doors are on opposite
   sides of the room, I would wire it power, switch 1, light, switch 2.
   14-2 coming in to switch one for power
   14-3 to light from switch 1
   14-3 from light to switch 2
  
   at switch 1:
   connect grounds together with a pig tail so you can connect them to the
   switch
   connect the white from the power to the black going to the light
   connect the black from the power to the common screw on the switch (which 
   is
   the dark colored screw)
   connect the red and white from the 14-3 to the remaining traveler screws,
   don't matter which goes where
  
   switch 2:
   connect ground to ground screw on switch.
   connect the black to the common screw of the switch
   connect the red and white to the traveler screws. If you want both 
   switches
   to be the same direction when the light is on or off, connect them the
   opposite way you did on switch 1.
  
   light:
   connect the reds together.
   connect the whites together
   connect the grounds together with a pig tail.
   connect black from switch to to black on light
   connect black from switch 1 to white on light.
   connect ground to light.
  
   turn on power and test.
   If your power is coming to your light fixture first, let me know, and I 
   will
   give you instructions for that.
   Let us know how it goes.
  
   Michael
  
  
  
   _
  
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
   On Behalf Of Scott Howell
   Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 18:26
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hello and 3-way switches
  
  
  
   Hello all,
  
   My name as the e-mail header indicates is Scott Howell. I live in
   Mount AIry Maryland and have been blind since birth. I have learned a
   lot of my handyman activities just by figuring out things on my own
   and with a few questions. Can't say everything I've done was pretty,
   but I got the job done. I've done lots of plumbing, electrical, and
   some other repairs like hanging doors and the like.
   I however have a few projects of the electrical variety and one of
   those I have to admit I'm not overly sure of.
   I have a need to install a 3-way switch arrangement. What I have is a
   bathroom where the fools that built this place put the switch clear
   on the otherside of the room near a secondary door and not near the
   main door off the hall.
   So, my understanding is that I would remove the old switch, I'd need
   two 3-way switches, and 3 conductor cable with ground so that makes
   four wires total. Now what I'm not overly clear 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] using the post office on the web

2006-12-07 Thread R S Enterprises
I have gotten postage stamps through my carrier as in through the mail, but 
nothing on the web.  I would be very surprised if the post office would 
trust a bath room scales.  I would suggest you contact the local post 
office.
They do offer some one flat rate boxes and envelopes, but they are high 
priced in my opinon.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Carla Jo [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: handygirl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] using the post office on the web


 Has anyone used the post office on the web to send packages?  My mail gal
 told me that I could use my bathroom scales to weigh a package, then it
 would print off my postage and  I can put all that on the box and she will
 just pick it up   at my door.  I don't have any sticky label things to put
 in my printer.  Just wanting a few more details.
 thanks,
 cj
 www.usps.com



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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] shop heater

2006-12-05 Thread R S Enterprises
Stretching my memory some.  The pilot may be on when turned to pilot if this 
heater has a flue vent.  Old floor furnaces had a open pilot used a thermo;ile 
and no electricity so the pilot had to be burning for there to be enough 
electricity to operate the main gas valve.  If the pilot blew out the pilot gas 
just went up the flue.  have you looked around for a separate manual valve and 
are you sure there is no pilot gas when the control is in the pilot position.  
Probably the easiest way to check is loosen the ;pilot gas line at the control 
so it would be easy to smell or even feel the pressure or flow.  Was the 
control in the off position when you first checked it out.  The more I think 
and ramble I am thinking if it is old enough the pilot may have gas through it 
any time it is turned on.  Only in the off position does all gas cease to flow.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Huhn 
  To: blind 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 4:24 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] shop heater


  BlankHi guys, I have a natural gas heater in my shop that has not yet been 
  turned on as we just moved to this house a year ago. It is one that hangs 
  down from the cieling and I don't know what brand it is or anything but I 
  am trying to light the pilot and get it to work The control valve is like a 
  hot water heater that you can turn to pilot but I can't find any button to 
  push to light the pilot
  like on a water heater. I think this heater has not been used in years. any 
  help?

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] board for a miter gage?

2006-11-29 Thread R S Enterprises
I would think a piece of three quarters plywood will work as well as anything.  
It should extend at least one inch higher than the maximum blade height if you 
want to extend it to the left of the blade.  Two bolts countersunk on the wood 
side and drilled through the miter gauge should hold it fine.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:24 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] board for a miter gage?


  I would like to put a board on my miter gage for my table saw to 
  support cross cuts. Of what kind of wood should I make it, how long, 
  how wide and how should I attach it to the gage?

  John

  -- 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.19/555 - Release Date: 11/27/2006 
6:09 PM



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal Ladders and Electricity Do Not Mix.

2006-11-29 Thread R S Enterprises
OK wire spacing.  It looks like we are getting into three kinds of wiring.  The 
first is high voltage power lines that come to your transformers and those 
mounted on poles are the only ones we are concerned.  Most people will not have 
 ladders out close those poles and it will bake a pretty long ladder.  Their 
spacing is dependant on what voltage they are operating at.  Typically a 
nominal 5,000 or  the 15,000 level.  Somewhere in the two to four foot range is 
the spacing and yes when they are on a horizontal crossarm eagles have been 
know to touch two parts.
Most home owners should be concerned about the lines coming from the 
transformer and fastening to the house.  In past times there were three single 
wires fastened to a rack or screw in house knob insulators..  I think the 
minumum spacing was about 6 to 12 inches and the wires were insulated, but with 
age it did crack and come off sometimes.  Of course the maximum voltage was 250 
between the two hot conductors so the netural was usually ran in the middle so 
the potential to ground was only the 125 so less apt to arc with minor touching.
The overhead wiring used nowdays is called triplex.  It has two insulated hot 
conductors wound around a bare aluminum wire that has a steel center that 
actually does the supporting.  The insulation on this stuff is very tuff, 
pretty thick and long lasting.  A causual brush against it is likely safe.  
However anything that rubs back and forth or is sharp can cut into it.  
Sometimes the connectors used to couple this wire to the wires going down the 
conduit to the meter socket were only covered with tape compounds that can 
deteroite with time and totally fall off.  If they connection is made by the 
utility company they use a insulated  connector that is crimpted on and is 
pretty tough.  All the new stuff is pretty safe when done right, but don't put 
ladders on it or real close.  Anyway with the triplex the birds are protected 
by the insulation.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Doucet 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 8:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal Ladders and Electricity Do Not Mix.


  Hi,

  So these wires are actually two wires? How far appart are they?

  At 12:25 PM 11/28/2006 -0600, you wrote:

  Spiro wrote.
  
and how do birds sit on these wires and not get zapped? I've always
wondered that.
  
  To get zapped you need to touch both sides of the circuit at the same time.
  Usually the earth and a hot wire is enough to give you a good one. Birds
  are so small they are only sitting on one wire at a time and they don't feel
  a thing. Power line workers use the same principle when they stand in their
  insulated bucket trucks and work on the hot wires.
  
  Regards.
  
  Max. K 4 O D S.
  
  Email: mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  Transistor site 
  http://www.funwithtransistors.nethttp://www.funwithtransistors.net
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.nethttp://www.funwithtubes.net
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.comhttp://www.maxsmusicplace.com
  
  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  - Original Message -
  From: mailto:spiro%40netaxs.com[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 8:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal Ladders and Electricity Do Not Mix.
  
maybe this is narrow minded of me.
But my insurance company actually tells me when my roofing waranty is up.
Couldn't they at that time, request the customer to show that electrical
lines X feet from the house are insulated?
Is it really dumb, or out-of-line to run 250 ft of 400V insulated, if that
many folks are getting zapped?
(is this a helmet law?) or should we just give a hearty haha goodbye to
folks getting zapped by outdoor wiring?
and how do birds sit on these wires and not get zapped? I've always
wondered that.
   
   
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006, Ray Boyce wrote:
   
Hi
CPSC warns that consumers can be electrocuted when they use metal ladders
near overhead wires. Consumers often use metal ladders near overhead
wires
to
clean gutters, paint structures, trim trees, and repair roofs and
chimneys.
   
from electrocution when someone was using a
metal ladder which contacted an electrical wire in or around the home.
   
Electrocutions often occur when:
   
Consumers move metal ladders which accidentally touch an overhead
electrical
wire near the house or street. Metal ladders conduct electricity, which
can
kill anyone touching the ladder.
   
. Metal ladders shift position. Wind , uneven ground or reaching to the
side
while on the ladder can cause the ladder or person to contact an overhead
wire.
   
. Consumers use 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Covering a window AC with a trash bag

2006-11-27 Thread R S Enterprises
Masking tape might work, but I would suggest mulital layers.  Duct tape would 
work a lot better..  I would suggest covering the inside also.  There are lots 
of cracks for cold air to go through.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: compgirl32 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 4:48 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Covering a window AC with a trash bag


  How do you go about covering a window ac with a trash bag? Can I use
  masking tape or do I need to get some duct tape? I seem to have
  accidentally misplaced the cover that came with it and it is easier if
  I can leave it in the window.
  Thanks for your help.

  Vicki



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] All bungged up!

2006-11-26 Thread R S Enterprises
Dale,
For some reason a cork screw comes to mind..  I used one last weekend that had 
a couple of arms that stayed up until the screw was all the way in than were 
pried down against the neck of the bottle which reuslted in the cork being 
raised.  The bung rim may not be right for this style, but maymaybe the old 
bolt could be pushed in and a regular corkscrew screwedd into the rubber and 
hopefully result on the pull being distrbuted throughout the cork or plug  So 
it could be just pulled out.  Of course next time a new bolt would be nedded 
and maybe not shove the thing in as far..
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 4:43 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] All bungged up!


  Hi,

  Looking for suggestions.

  I have a roller which you fill with water or sand for adding weight to roll 
out things like the lawn. I released the bung and tried to wiggle it out so I 
could get the water out of it in an effort to preserve it's round shape for 
next year. The rubber bung is a round rubber plug with a washer on each side 
and a bolt which runs through the middle and a wingnut so, when you tighten the 
wingnut it pulls the two washers together which thickens the rubber and it fits 
water tightly in the hole in the side of the drum.

  Well it wouldn't come out!

  I wiggled and jiggled and all it wanted to do was go in which, if it does, I 
will never again retrieve.

  This would not worry me all that much if a replacement was easily available 
but in the past, every time I go to my hardware store they inform me they are 
right out of stock as if they had just sold the last one minutes before my 
arrival. Not only that but they are expecting more on the next truck on Tuesday 
but without fail, some other needy bungger seems to get there before me but I 
digress.

  So, I put a small prybar on the wingnut musing as I tried wiggling the little 
beggar that pulling on the nut was pulling on the bolt which would be pulling 
on the washer inside the drum which would be expanding the stopper but I did it 
anyway. I was mistaken though, the wingnut was one of those pressed metal 
things and it decided to slide off of the threads instead, a consequence I had 
not anticipated. The wingnut now reposes probably in my neighbours yard 
somewhere over my shed where he will doubtless find it in the spring and wonder 
which of his devices it had been liberated from.

  I did grab the bolt with a small pair of channel locks so, in some way I 
still have hold of the rubber stopper and bolt and at least the inner washer 
and I have tried, with this hold to jiggle the rubber out of that hole 
including smearing Vaseline over it but, the fit seems to remain too tight.

  The hole appears to be maybe an inch and the bolt only a little longer than 
required but I am thinking I won't get it out of there unless I just melt it or 
burn it with a torch which really isn't useful, might as well leave it to 
rattle about inside there.

  Anyway, I thought I would put it out there on the list in case someone has; 
Either an idea to try or a source for bungs.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] table saw power

2006-11-25 Thread R S Enterprises
Dale, very well said.  Mostly the higher voltage allows the machinery to be 
farther away from the source and use a smaller gage wire thereby lessing the 
cost of installation.  And if no one has noticed the last scrap copper wire I 
sold went for $2.40 a pound.  No wonder 12-2 wg romex is going for over $90. a 
250 foot roll..  By the way crushed beverage cans were 48 cents a lb.
Anyway, good job Dale.
Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 7:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] table saw power


  I have been waiting to see if you get another response but haven't seen one 
  yet. The best I understand of this is a definite maybe.

  You won't get any more speed out of the motor by wiring it for 220 and I 
  don't think you gain any real power except that it is likely to perform 
  better under extreme load but you shouldn't be pushing it that hard anyway. 
  It will likely come up to speed more quickly when you start it and when you 
  do bog it down. This may depend a little on the design of the motor but when 
  ever I have looked into this problem the specifications remain about the 
  same regardless of the wiring. The big advantage is that when you double the 
  voltage you half the current drawn so, you require smaller fuses or breakers 
  and things tend to run cooler and all that.

  There may be other advantages but at this point I am unaware of them.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Huhn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 12:06 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] table saw power

   BlankHi guys, I have a JET super saw table saw and I know that I can wire
   the motor for 230 volts and my question is will this increase the horse
   power and or the motor torque . I ask this because as it is now running
   with 110 volts if I am ripping stock 1 1/2 in. thick or more it has a hard
   time of it thanks
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
   To listen to the show archives go to link
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   or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] cheap door knob losing finish

2006-11-05 Thread R S Enterprises
Well Tom,
It is hard to tell what is really on your knob.  Myself I would try fine 
sandpaper 220 to remove the green then 400 to buff anything left back 
smooth.  Then I would spray clear lacquer or clear enamel many, multiple 
coats over it.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 6:25 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cheap door knob losing finish


 Hi brain folks,
 We have security doors front and back, these steel doors with
 expanded metal instaead of screen.

 the knobs, particularly the outside ones of course, are losing
 their finish and appear green instead of imitation brass.

 Feel sticky and unpleasant.  Tried alcohol and that dissolves the
 finish even more and makes it sticky and gritty.  But it's hard to
 remove all the gunk.

 Does anybody have a good idea how to clean and retreat these
 knobs?

 Don't want to replace, because would involve replacing entire
 lock set I'm sure, keys etc. and not worth the money.

 thanks
 Tom




 Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gasket sealer

2006-11-04 Thread R S Enterprises
Well what I do is put a dolop of the blue  r t v  on my index finger just 
back of the end, toward the palm.  Then I spread it running the point of my 
finger along the inside ridge or on one side of the gasket put the gasket 
on.  Then put the sealer on the other side of the gasket then attach all 
together.  Keeping the sealer off the point of finger alows you to use it as 
a guide and not spread in that area.  It may a few dolops but spread it 
pretty thin.  It is good stuff and the gasket is built to do the majority of 
the work the r t v just seals it.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gasket sealer


I need to change the water pump on my pickup. No problem I can handle that.
 only question I have is about applying gasket sealer. I think it would be
 RTV that I would use.
 Any blind guy tips on applying it without making an inordinent mess. I am
 sure I can handle getting a good enough coating all the way around.The
 making a mess in the grand skeem of things isn't what bothers me.   My 
 only
 concern since this will be my first time using this is I don't want to end
 up with any RTV in the cooling system.



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] audible level

2006-10-31 Thread R S Enterprises
I purchased my Zircon brand level at my local hardware/lumber yard.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Alton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 6:26 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] audible level


 Where can I purchase one?
 Dale

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Trim

2006-10-30 Thread R S Enterprises
Bill,
There is also a thin, almost veneer, birch stripping that comes in rolls of 
various width.  It has glue on it you put it on the edge and run a hot 
cloths iron over it which melts the glue.  After it sets the excess is cut 
off with a utility knife, razor blade or sanded.  It actually works pretty 
slick.  I would use the one inch for the 3/4 plywood. .  Almost a must if 
the plywood is birch.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 10:29 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Trim


 Folks:

 I have a table top made out of a piece of 3/4 plywood that I want to put 
 some trim around for aesthetic reasons only.  I plan on using quarter 
 round for this, but I have no clue what I'm doing since I've never tried 
 this before.

 I understand I can use either brads or finishing nails for this.  What 
 exactly is a brad, and how does it differ from a finishing nail.
 If I use finishing nails, I know I have to use a nail set to seat them 
 below the surface of the wood.  Are there different sizes of nail sets 
 available, and how are the sizes expressed.  I have a couple nail sets, 
 but they look too big for finishing nails, to me at least.

 If I use brads, what kind of tool do I need to seat them, and are there 
 different sizes of that tool and how would those sizes be expressed?



 Bill Stephan
 Kansas City, MO
 (816)803-2469
 William Stephan



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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House

2006-10-29 Thread R S Enterprises
Well Dale I am not sure what you mean by a bayonet fetting.  The one that 
comes to my mind is the two screws that clamp a semi flat piece of steel 
against the back and the two screws are only accessible from outside the 
box.  The fitting then fits into a 1/2 inch knock out and is held in with a 
locknut.  Some times you can snake a slim screwdriver along side the box, 
but not if the screws are away from you.  Last resort pry the box away from 
the stud slightly and saw the nails off with a sawsall,metal cutting jigsaw 
or a hand hacksaw blade and remove the box from the wall.  They can be 
reused by drilling holes in the side of the box next to the stud and 
installing a couple of screws.  Code doesn't reqquire stapling to the stud 
when fishing in voids.
And as someone said this is nothing but hot dirty nasty work.  By the way if 
it was done correct originally only one lath was totally cut out the one at 
the and bottom was only notched or at least if it was installed after the 
lath.  Of course if the lath was installed after the wire and box anything 
could have been done.  I guess the notched lath was more for a new box being 
installed in an existing lath and plaster wall.  Lots of ways to do things 
and every box may be different in his house.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


I have done a lot of that here, mostly though I was able to open a wall and
 recover it with drywall. Cutting plaster  lath is hard to do without 
 making
 a mess of it and it destroys saws.

 I would like to know though how you pull cable into an existing box. The 
 old
 ones usually have a sort of bayonet fitting with a pinch screw arrangement
 into the box and are inaccessible from inside the box.

 Anyway, a lot of it is just damn hard and dirty work and tough on the 
 hands.


 Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Skype DaleLeavens
 Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


 - Original Message - 
 From: R  S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


 As one person has mentioned the surface raceway is one solution.  Let's
 look
 at traditional methods.   Some things to consider.  Is there insulation 
 in
 the exterior walls?  Is the attic accessible?  Is this a one story house?
 Is there a unfinished basement or workable crawl space?  If there is
 workable spaces new holes can be drilled and romex ran.  You didn't
 mention
 is there were metal switch and outlet boxees or are the devices mounted 
 to
 the lath?  Answers to these will allow a better suggestion.
 Ron
 I remember doing a lot of these old house rewires back in the seventys in
 the middle of summer.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 2:25 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


 My house is a old one, Plaster and clap board.
 I have colth wrap wire, when I move it the insulation breaks.
 I was hoping that I could new wire to old and pull it throw the wall? I
 don't think that will work, because the wire is not in a pipe.
 Need suggestion




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 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message

Re: [BlindHandyMan] bonding idea needed

2006-10-29 Thread R S Enterprises
I am guessing you have tried a epoxy mix.  I know it doesn't work on all 
plastics.  Is there room perhaps with counter boring to install a pop or 
normal rivet?
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: tunecollector [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bonding idea needed


I am trying to affix a plastic sliding shower door guide onto an aluminum
 rail.  I have tried a plethora of glues but none of them work.  Drilling 
 in
 screws will not work because they will impede the sliding of the doors.
 Net, I need something that will glue a flat plastic piece onto a flat
 aluminum surface.



 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.

2006-10-28 Thread R S Enterprises
Yep  we had a Tif tic tracer at the shop and it worked well.  Lots of ways 
to skin this cat.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.


 ron,
 A great post,

 Another way is to get what they call an electric finder' little
 gizmo looks like a pen light with a small disk instead of a lense.

 It buzzes when brought near a hot wire.  Also buzzes when it's
 tip is inserted a bit into the 'hot' side of a live socket.  Can
 also tell you if an extension cord is hot even if nothing plugged
 into it or turned on.

 Tom


 Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request

2006-10-28 Thread R S Enterprises
I don't believe the critter will cause any damage to the piping, nor will 
there be a danger of sewer gas getting into the house..  Hopefully it will 
not get further down into the drain then you face a posibility of the drain 
sttopping up.  How to get it out?  Good question, some pipe disassembly 
somewhere.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Ruby [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 7:06 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maybe ergent help request


 Hi,

 Today I noticed a bird or something that sounds like he can scratch very
 well behind my toilet.
 What is behind there?
 My plumbing vent on the rough. So he must of fell down there.
 Now since it is the weekend I can not get no help.

 What can I do other then not go to the bathroom or run water in there?
 When I do it starts scratching like mad for a little bit.

 How likely could he plug that pipe up and cause methane gas or suer gas to
 enter the rome and maybe cause a health problem?

 Thanks.

 Maybe I should keep running water or flushing until he scratches himself 
 to
 death, but can he do damage to the pipe or anything inside there?

 Thanks.



 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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 list just send a blank message to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House

2006-10-28 Thread R S Enterprises
Yes the best route is to disconnect the old wiring at the main panel box and 
cut it back everywhere you run into it.  Check the price of scrap copper and 
new wire and you will probably consider pulling out as much as possible to 
sell as scrap.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Jennifer Jackson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House


 They are making some attractive conduit for this these days.  many people
 use it so the wires are not hanging out all over the place when they run
 them to computers and entertainment centers.  I agree it is not the best
 esthetically for a full rewiring, but then neither is knocking out all the
 walls or having an electrical fire.  My favorite suggestion is the
 wainscoting one.  Although it wouldn't be in my budget either.

 Can you just disconnect all the old wires from the electric source and 
 leave
 them?


 Jennifer



 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list just send a blank message to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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[BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.

2006-10-27 Thread R S Enterprises
Hello folks,
I was listening to the handy show and Phil mentioned there was no way for a 
blind person to tell which wire was the hot one. or rather what color a wire 
was  Well one can put the talking multi meter to use.  Please note a audial 
continuity tester and or a 110 volt buzzer  can also be used.
First if you are replacing an outlet examine it closely.  If it is the three 
wire with a equipment ground it is a matter of replacing one wire at a time.  
Put the equipment hole down.  A bare or green wire will be attached  to that 
terminal so remove it from the bad outlet and put on the new one in the same  
spot.  The narrow slot on the right will be the black and the left wider slot 
is the white wire.location.
If you are doing a single pole switch with only two wires it really does not 
make a different.  Note I am not counting the equipment grounding wire  
sometimes fastened to the metal yoke of the switch.
Now if the out let is gone and only three wires are left.in the box proceed as 
follows.
If one is totally bare without insulation that is the equipment grounding wire. 
 It is fastened to the grounding bar in the panel box.  Check continuity 
between it and each of the other ones .  The one that shows continuity is the 
white, which is also hooked to the metal of the panel box as the equipment 
grounding wire is.  There fore we read continuity..  The one that doesn't show 
continuity is the black.  This is assuming number one the power is off and two 
nothing is plugged into the circuit and is turned on.  Your tester can backfeed 
in that case.
Using a voltage tester and alligator clips if you are a total turn power off.  
Hook one lead to the bare wire using a jumper wire with alligator clips.  Hook 
the other jumper assembly and lead to one of the other wires.  Turn power.  
Click the talk switch on the meter and see what it reads.  120 volts means you 
are hooked between the hot wire and the equipment grounding wire.  No reading 
means you hooked to the white  wire.
What to do when there are only two wires with no equipment ground, bare wire.  
Basicallly the same thing I had to do many times when I was sighted.  You have 
to bring in a equipment ground.  If you have metal water pipes you can hook to 
them or the metal panel box if it is closer again with jumper wires.  For 
extended lengths a extension cord can be used.  A straight screwdriver inserted 
into the female cord end allows you to make connection with out tearing the 
cord apart.  Again a jumper wire hooked to the screwdriver allows you to have a 
solid connection.  Don't try to hold wires together with your hands use the 
clips and jumper wires, they are more apt to stay together that way.
So now with a known grounding point measure for voltage to each wire to 
determine the hot or black one.
I have also used this method to straighten out incorrectly wired three way 
switches when there was no equipment ground in the switch box.  In this case 
you need to understand the basic theory of the circuit to be able to trace 
through the wiring, but it can be done.  The talking multi meter is great 
although a 110 volt buzzer could be used.
Ron

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.

2006-10-27 Thread R S Enterprises
Tony
Sounds like a very workable plan for new installations.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Tony Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 2:39 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.


I have someone tell me which wire is which on a new roll of romex then I
 strip the end of the black and tye a knot in the red on both ends of the
 roll.

 As I install the wires I use a continuity check and mark both ends of the
 wire as I cut it so I'm ready to go with the rest of the roll and can
 install fixtures later.

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of R  S Enterprises
 Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 1:39 PM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.

 Hello folks,
 I was listening to the handy show and Phil mentioned there was no way for 
 a
 blind person to tell which wire was the hot one. or rather what color a 
 wire
 was  Well one can put the talking multi meter to use.  Please note a 
 audial
 continuity tester and or a 110 volt buzzer  can also be used.
 First if you are replacing an outlet examine it closely.  If it is the 
 three
 wire with a equipment ground it is a matter of replacing one wire at a 
 time.
 Put the equipment hole down.  A bare or green wire will be attached  to 
 that
 terminal so remove it from the bad outlet and put on the new one in the 
 same
 spot.  The narrow slot on the right will be the black and the left wider
 slot is the white wire.location.
 If you are doing a single pole switch with only two wires it really does 
 not
 make a different.  Note I am not counting the equipment grounding wire
 sometimes fastened to the metal yoke of the switch.
 Now if the out let is gone and only three wires are left.in the box 
 proceed
 as follows.
 If one is totally bare without insulation that is the equipment grounding
 wire.  It is fastened to the grounding bar in the panel box.  Check
 continuity between it and each of the other ones .  The one that shows
 continuity is the white, which is also hooked to the metal of the panel 
 box
 as the equipment grounding wire is.  There fore we read continuity..  The
 one that doesn't show continuity is the black.  This is assuming number 
 one
 the power is off and two nothing is plugged into the circuit and is turned
 on.  Your tester can backfeed in that case.
 Using a voltage tester and alligator clips if you are a total turn power
 off.  Hook one lead to the bare wire using a jumper wire with alligator
 clips.  Hook the other jumper assembly and lead to one of the other wires.
 Turn power.  Click the talk switch on the meter and see what it reads. 
 120
 volts means you are hooked between the hot wire and the equipment 
 grounding
 wire.  No reading means you hooked to the white  wire.
 What to do when there are only two wires with no equipment ground, bare
 wire.  Basicallly the same thing I had to do many times when I was 
 sighted.
 You have to bring in a equipment ground.  If you have metal water pipes 
 you
 can hook to them or the metal panel box if it is closer again with jumper
 wires.  For extended lengths a extension cord can be used.  A straight
 screwdriver inserted into the female cord end allows you to make 
 connection
 with out tearing the cord apart.  Again a jumper wire hooked to the
 screwdriver allows you to have a solid connection.  Don't try to hold 
 wires
 together with your hands use the clips and jumper wires, they are more apt
 to stay together that way.
 So now with a known grounding point measure for voltage to each wire to
 determine the hot or black one.
 I have also used this method to straighten out incorrectly wired three way
 switches when there was no equipment ground in the switch box.  In this 
 case
 you need to understand the basic theory of the circuit to be able to trace
 through the wiring, but it can be done.  The talking multi meter is great
 although a 110 volt buzzer could be used.
 Ron

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link 
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list
 just send a blank message to:
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 --
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free

Re: [BlindHandyMan] different question on smoke alarms

2006-10-26 Thread R S Enterprises
Brice,
There are major and many small ones that specilize in fire and security 
alarms.  I believe most residental systems are just a series of 
interconnected alarms without any central control station.  If that is your 
case most electricians should be able to service them for you.  If alll are 
none functional you may have a circuit breaker turned off.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: brice mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] different question on smoke alarms


I have either 5 or 6 smoke alarms in my house that are  hard wired in, and
 also have battery backup.  Is there  such a business that will come out 
 and
 service your system?  Mine aren't working even after replacing the 
 batteries



 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dipsticks

2006-10-26 Thread R S Enterprises
Bill,
What ise is a soda straw or small diameter flexible hose.  Insert it into 
the fill hole start blowing into it while lowering.  When you hear bubbles, 
stop and mark with tape.  Next time if you goe below the tape line you need 
some.  Do your directions call for a oil change after the first hundred 
hours of running like mine did?  Yeah I know a little difficult to figure 
when that magic number has ran, but I would think that is approximate.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 8:18 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dipsticks


 Well, it's xmas in October here, I got the air compressor from Harbor 
 Freight yesterday.  It needed some assembly, but it was pretty straight 
 forward as these things go.  The thing takes something like 25 ounces of 
 motor oil, and as a convenience to the sighted, there's a viewing window
 To more easily facilitate keeping the oil level right.  Of course, that 
 means there's no dipstick.  So, can any of you folks suggest good material 
 to make a dipstick with?  I'm thinking pipe cleaners, but that's just my 
 first guess.

 Bill Stephan
 Kansas City, MO
 (816)803-2469
 William Stephan



 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links



 



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Furnace issue.

2006-10-26 Thread R S Enterprises
Just a thought or two.  It almost sounds like you have a standing pilot with 
a relight system.  Funny downdrafts or such can blow out a pilot.  Sometimes 
there electronic or thermo lockouts that keep some things from working. if 
things don't relight in a specified time.I would keep an eye on this it 
may show up again and maybe not if the pilot stays lit.
- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 10:33 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Furnace issue.


 Just an informative note more than a question.

 On Tuesday evening, Teresa and I arrived home from work.  As we started to
 prepare dinner, Teresa mentioned that she was cold.  I realized that it
 was a bit chilly in the house so I went over to the spiffy talking
 thermostat and punched the info button.  It announced that the house
 temperature was 63 degrees and the thermostat was set to 69 degrees.  That
 is a problem.

 I went to the basement and pulled the cover off the bottom of the furnace
 and carefully slid my hand in, feeling for the heat of the pilot light.
 Nothing.  I also noticed that the igniter was going crazy clicking very
 rapidly.  I couldn't remember the process for lighting the pilot so called
 Teresa down.  She read the instructions off the side of the furnace which
 included:

 Set thermostat below ambient temperature
 Turn off power to the furnace
 Turn off the gas via the little nobby job on the furnace
 wait a few minutes.
 Turn nobby thing to pilot
 hold in button next to nobby thing and light the pilot with a match
 Continue holding button for one minute
 turn nobby thing to gas
 Turn power to the furnace back on.

 Since Teresa was hovering over me, I put her to work and had her stick the
 lit match in while I held the button.  I'm pretty hairy and hair singes
 remarkably easily.  *GRIN*

 The igniter was still clicking away rapidly so I was suspicious of the
 thermocouple but when I punched up the temp on the thermostat, the furnace
 kicked on no problem.  The igniter remained clicking but all seemed OK.
 Teresa confirmed that the pilot was burning nice and blue.  The furnace
 was cycling on and off without a hitch, so we went to bed.

 Next morning all still seemed fine except that the igniter stopped
 clicking like mad.  Last evening we got home and the furnace was still
 doing fine.

 Not sure what caused the pilot to go out, but all looks fine for now.

 Later.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
 list just send a blank message to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] The experience

2006-10-26 Thread R S Enterprises
So am I understanding correctly that the nuts turned off clockwise as in 
left handed threads.  They should have stamped with a L or made it clear in 
the manual.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 11:30 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The experience


 About 4 years ago we sold our home in the city and moved to the country.
 Every since I have the pleasure of doing thing, I normally would not have 
 to
 do. Yesterday was one of those days. After 4 years of my wife beating the
 blades on our tractor to death, I decided it was time to take the blades 
 off
 the mower deck and get them sharpen. So off came the deck and a good
 cleaning was needed. So out came the wire brush, plastic putty knife and I
 went to work. Now to turn that hundred pound plus monstrosity over was a 
 job
 in itself. Finely with the help of my wife, it was finally on its back. 
 More
 cleaning was to be done. Than I found the nuts holding the three blades 
 were
 larger than any socket or box wrench I had. Didn't want to chew up the 
 nuts,
 so a trip to Harbor Freight was in order. The cheapest large socket set my
 wife  seen was $30 without a breaker bar. I felt around and pulled out a 
 16
 inch piece set that was way in the back of the shelve and ask her what it
 was. Here things started to get better. It was a $30 set marked down to 
 $18.
 Found a 18 inch breaker bar for $9 and was on my way to remove the blades. 
 I
 sought. I still couldn't break the nuts loose, nor could I figure out if 
 the
 nuts were counter-clock-wise or not and my wife said she couldn't tell. So
 she got out the manual and said that I should put a wooden block right
 there. Well if the block had to go there, than the nut had to be turned 
 that
 way. Clock wise. Now I knew I had it made and soon the blades would be
 removed. Wrong. Out came the WD 40 and still the nuts wouldn't move. I
 sought for sure I was going to have to take that whole deck, blades and 
 all
 into the place that sharpens blades. Took the wire brush to the threads 
 and
 gave it a few more squirts of W D 40. The nuts still didn't move. The 
 phone
 rung and a friend recommended I take the whole deck to the repair shop
 before I broke something. That conversation lasted about 10 minutes. I was
 just about to give in and take the deck to the experts, but had to try it
 one last time. Put the socket on the nut, gave it a few good jerks, and 
 much
 to my surprise the nuts broke free and the blades are off and on their way
 to get sharpen, and I learn a lesson. Take the blades off every year, even
 if they don't need sharpen.
 RJ



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dipsticks

2006-10-26 Thread R S Enterprises
Sounds logical.  Remember blow the air out 
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dipsticks


 Ron,
 Now that straw for dipstick is darned clever and
 something I should have thought of, I assume a similar technique should 
 work on a marine desel?

 thanks
 Tom



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting the Work

2006-10-23 Thread R S Enterprises
I have made a couple of roller stands using plumbing pipe for the roller a 
discarded fan pedastal and yes was a little unstable.  I found a scrap car 
brake rotor put down over the upright support so it rested on the base put 
enough weight down on the base it is now quite stable.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting the Work


 This won't help you too much but this week Canadian Tire has roller stands
 on sale for under ten bucks.

 I have a couple, I am of a couple of minds about them. These ones have a
 pipe with horizontal pipe across the bottom and a similar parallel flat
 steel bent up at the ends with a roller across. A second inverted 'T' 
 hinged
 from a cuff that fits around the main pipe and can be slid up and down and
 tightened into place with a hand knob on a bolt.I paid nearly fifty bucks
 for mine a couple of years ago.

 The height is infinitely variable from something like 30 to 42 inches. I 
 use
 mine to catch stock coming off my table saw or jointer or drum sander and
 could use it with the drill press too I suppose, just never have.

 My main complaint is that if the board nudges the roller stand it often
 prefers to fall over rather than raise the board over the top.

 My hero Norm Abrams has made one, a sort of box within a box with a 
 threaded
 rod to be screwed up or down to set the height. He made a set of rollers 
 on
 the top using plastic plumbing pipe with wooden circles in the ends and 
 rod
 through. I am thinking that a very slight slope toward the approaching 
 work
 might catch the end and tilt on a pivot to level and it would be secure
 against falling over.

 There is little worse than having to depend on something innately
 undependable.

 I have been known to suspend the end of a long piece from a rope attached 
 to
 the overhead joists.


 Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Skype DaleLeavens
 Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


 - Original Message - 
 From: William Stephan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:10 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting the Work


 Yesterday, I got to spend a considerable amount of time in my basement
 cutting and drilling in preparation for building a workbench.  The floor
 is about five inches higher at the base of three of the walls than it is
 in the center where there is a drain.  This can present some challenges,
 but  I like it just the same.  But I digress.

 My wife is a woman of many talents, some of which have to do with music.
 She has a studio, and several adjustable music stands.

 Yesterday,  I borrowed one of these to use while I was sawing and
 running my drill press.  It worked amazingly well quite frankly, and it
 was sturdier than I had thought.  It was easily adjustable, and because 
 of
 the sloping floor, I could make minor changes by just moving  it an inch
 or two in one direction or another.

 Any of you folks have different and maybe better ways of supporting work?

 Thanks for any other ideas.



 Bill Stephan
 Kansas City, MO
 (816)803-2469
 William Stephan



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 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.9/490 - Release Date: 
 20/10/2006





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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight, a good tradeoff

2006-10-22 Thread R S Enterprises
My experience is that McMaster has more varity in parts, fasteners and such 
and there tools are quality but more costly than Harbor Freight.  Prrobably 
get what you pay for.  Don't get me wrong I buy a lot of stuff from Harbor 
Freight.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 10:32 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight, a good tradeoff


 Hi,
 I like
 www.hosereelsource.com

 but I'm wondering how do folks compare harbor to McMaster?
 Are they similar?

 I need a new wet/dry shop vac and am told that the new plastic tub units
 are strong and won't rot out like mine did :(
 (yeah while trying to clear a toilet clog.
 arg, on the bedroom floor)


 On Thu, 19 Oct 2006, Tony Thurman wrote:

 I bought a small compressor from them last year and have been pleased 
 with
 it.

 I recently purchased a hose reel on ebay.  Its not the self winding model
 but was cheap and is very sturdhy and is much better than messing with 
 the
 hose.

 Tony

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of William Stephan
 Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 11:47 AM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Harbor Freight, a good tradeoff

 Well, I've been whining for a year or so about how much I need one of 
 those
 Tissot vibrating watches that cost $400 or so.  And, my wife I believe 
 was
 going to buy me one for Xmas.  Yesterday though, I decided I could save
 money and really be happier buying a compressor, which I've also been
 whining about not having.

 So, after I got the clearance from my wife, I checked around a bit and
 finally bought a small relatively inexpensive one from Harbor Freight.

 I was able to get the compressor, hose, coupling set, blow gun, 3/8 drill
 and 3/8 air ratchet for about $160.00, and that includes shipping.
 And, since I saved us so much money, I'm going to have another 30 amp 
 line
 put on the breaker box in the basement, which is something else I've 
 wanted
 for a while.

 BTW, I got really good service from the folks at Harbor Freight.



 Bill Stephan
 Kansas City, MO
 (816)803-2469
 William Stephan



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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 10/18/2006




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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] putting up shelves

2006-10-22 Thread R S Enterprises
My experience has been the brackets cost less than the snap in brackets and 
then you still have to buy the wall standreds.  The wall pieces also hold 
the shelves away from the wall unless you notch for them and the premade 
shelves arn't always the right width for the snap in brackets.  With the 
wall angles you can also put a screw in from the bottom making the shelf 
more secure.  Of course once built there is no adjustment, but less cost.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 12:43 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] putting up shelves


 Max
 I am very fermillier  with that system and have useed them many times. I 
 do
 like the versitility. Do you think they would be less expensive than just
 using l brackets?
 depending on how many shelves I will put up that can still runn into some
 bucks. Looks like they are going to be my best bet but those rails have
 gotten kind of expensive.
 Thanks



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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves

2006-10-12 Thread R S Enterprises
Mot much of a plumbing supply then.  McMaster-Carr might be another 
suggestion to call.
- Original Message - 
From: Mickey Fixsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves


  Thanks for the suggestion.  I've tried this source and the valves are too 
 large for my purpose.



  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:07 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves


  Other possibilities are a real plumbing supply store not just a hardware
  store. Surely these are sometimes used in the icemaker lines.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ken Hawk [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 12:49 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves

   Try the pet stores.
   Ken
   - Original Message - 
   From: Mickey Fixsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 10:26 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves
  
  
  I tried all of the hardware stores around here. They didn't have
  anything.
  
   Thanks for helping.
   - Original Message - 
   From: rj
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:37 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves
  
  
   A good true valve hardware store may carry one.
  
   - Original Message - 
   From: Mickey Fixsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:23 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves
  
Hi all.
   
I need to find a source for very tiny shutoff valves to use with
   1/8id
   plastic tubing. I have seen such valves and they are usually like a 
 ball
   valve or a gas cock. They have barb hose ends on each side of the 
 valve,
   but I don't know where to begin looking for them.
   
Anyone know where I can find such a critter?
   
Thanks-- Mickey
   
   
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 Man
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   Visit The New Blind Handy

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tie rod end replacement

2006-10-02 Thread R S Enterprises
Well all the ends I have replaced have been on Fords, but I think others are 
similiar.  I would not attempt to work on one without removing the tire and 
having the car secured on a jackstand.  The tape being wrapped on the rod 
end is a fairly good idea.  Some sighted people count the number of turns 
needed to remove the end.  If it comes with a grease zert installed or a 
loose one in the box to install then it needs grease.  I would not drive it 
out of the garage without grease.  Normally only the toe in needs to 
resetvut of course most shops wil  not do a partial job.  You can set the 
toe in yourself or check it with a board that will span the front tires and 
a couple of nails.  Very tedious and time consuming and it works best if you 
have a little c sight and some chalk.  If you  or someone else wants to know 
the procedure for that let me know.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 10:45 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tie rod end replacement


I need to replace the inner tie rod end on the passenger side of my 89 s10.
 I checked it out and I understand how it comes apart and goes back 
 together
 but I have a few basic questions.
 first of all does  the   tire have to be off the ground? second of all,
 since I don't have any adaptive measuring tools my plan was to use tape to
 mark where the outer tie rod end comes to on the inner tie rod . Then I 
 was
 going to line up the old with the new and mark the new with tape
 accordingly. Is there any thing wrong with this plan and if so is there a
 better method  to use?
 Last of all do they come pre greeced? if not I have a mechanic a mile up 
 the
 road that can take care of that for me when I am done. If this is the case
 how long can I safely drive it before I greece it.
 I understand that I will have to have it aligned after I am finished. any
 thing else I may have over looked that I should consider?
 thanks for your help in advance.



 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tankless WaterHeaters the Good and the Bad

2006-09-09 Thread R S Enterprises
Might I suggest that the tankless insides will likely also get mineral
deposits.  Anyone know for sure or does the flowing water keep them from
forming on the insides?
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Lee A. Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tankless WaterHeaters the Good and the Bad



 with the price of Natural Gas, we are still considering  the tanklesss
 option as our  current stand alone NG heater is 18 years old and needs
 to be drained and cleaned out again of hard water buildup. I'm
 suggesting this time we do it and save a bunch of money.Thanks for the
 posts Ray.Lee



 -- 
 The early bird gets the coffee left over from the night before.


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a power cord

2006-09-06 Thread R S Enterprises
Well Dale has a very novel and workable solution.  I kind of prefer using
some kind of continuity tester.  Even just a buzzer or bell wired in a
battery circuit will work.  The round or u shaped prong is as others have
said the safety equipment grounding wire.  Of the two straight prongs the
wider one is the white wire.  When checking on the compressor have one wire
unhooked when doing continuity checks or you may be actually reading through
the motor.  The narrow blade is the hot or black wire.  Establishing those
on the compressor before entirely removing the cord should allow you to get
them all correct without sighted assistance.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 9:35 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a power cord


 Hello gang
 I baught a very old air compresser. It works well but the cord is in very
 sorry shape. Instead of replacing it, the previous owner taped it with
 electrical tape from stem to stern.
 My questions are these.
 first can I just buy a 6 foot three strand grounded cord with a male plug
on
 one end and bare wires on the other end or do I have to buy the cord and
the
 end sepret and put them together?
 second and more importantly, do I need sighted assistance to wire it to
the
 machine or is there a way to tell which wire is the ground when I install
 it?
 I found the two screws for the -plus and minus and the ground clip  so I
 know where they are to be hooked up.
 also
 with this kind of cord do I need to make sure that the 2 wires that are
not
 the ground are correct or does it not matter.





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] using a table saw.

2006-09-05 Thread R S Enterprises
You did not say how many shelves or what length you were wanting to end up
with.  If you were say wanting shelves about two foot long then the smart
thing would be to saw it in the middle making two four foot boards and then
cut each in half.  This way the cuts are pretty well balanced each time.
When sawing a short piece off a long one on a table saw it becomes a little
difficult to keep things from twisting.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 9:25 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] using a table saw.


 Hi gang  I have a 1 by 11  by 8 foot board that I need to cut for some
 shelves.
 I do not have a cercular saw. all I have is a hand saw which I really do
not
 want to use for this project. I also have a small table saw. I don't know
 the size of the table saw but suffice it to say it is not a large table.
Is
 there a practicle way to cut this board on the table saw or do I need to
 either have some one with a cercular saw cut it for me or buy one and do
it
 my self?
 I would like to learn to use a cercular saw but that just is not in my
 budget at this time so if it needs to be cut that way I would just have
some
 one do it for me.




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 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to fix Crumbling Chimney Mortar

2006-09-05 Thread R S Enterprises
Well Kevin,
I am hardly anytype of chimney expert. If the leaking is happening inside
the chimmney I would suspect the cap may have blown off and depending on the
size of the opening and construction.  Stainless steel versus galvanized
steel it might be as pricy as you were quoted.  I agree that seems too high
for caulking or whatever he was trying.  If the leak is outside the chimmney
but along it it sounds like a roof flashing problem which might be
temporarly solved with caulking but someway of inserting the flashing into
the brick joints is probably called for.  If it is a metal chimmney there
may be a missing storm collar that is a narrower piece of metal that goes
around the outside and covers the small gap between the flashing assemble
and the actual pipe.  A new storm collar shouldn't be much as new caulking
shouldn't be much.  New metal flashing into brick joints puts you back into
the $300 range again.  So a lot depends on what is wrong.  A good
description of the actual construction and finding out where it is really
leaking is needed.  Maybe my nebulus description have given you some idea of
how much it can vary.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Doucet [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to fix Crumbling Chimney Mortar


 Hi,

 My chimney leaks. I hear drops falling down from above. A year ago, I
 had a person to come and try to fix it. He told me he used a
 high-grade very expensive rubber sealant but I would not be able to
 use the gas logs any more. Oh, yes he also told me I owed $280. I was
 not willing to pay that much for some one sealing the top of my
 chimney in a manner I did not agree with or think should cost so
 much. Well, suffice it to say I had no more business with that person.

 Ok, now we are one year out and I am having the same problem. So, now
 I ask what is the correct way to repair my chimney and still use the
 gas logs? And what is the estimated cost?


 Thanks.
 At 08:03 AM 8/18/2006 +1000, you wrote:


  Hi
 Avoid extensive, costly damage to a masonry chimney. Maintain the
 mortar joints by tuck-pointing (repointing) them, and make sure the
 chimney crown remains
 sealed against water.
 
 Tuck-pointing masonry joints
 
 Steps:
 1.
 Work from the bottom up to remove loose mortar a few feet (a meter
 or so) at a time. Set up ladders or scaffolding if necessary. Use a
 mason's hammer and
 chisel, a scraper and similar hand tools for difficult-to-reach
 areas. For extensive tuck-pointing, rent an electric grinder with a
 tuck-pointing attachment
 and blades.
 
 2.
 Mix water into a packaged mortar mix as directed on the label, using
 a cement-mixing container and hoe.
 
 3.
 Apply the mortar by first loading the bottom side of a square
 mason's trowel (or a board) with mortar (see A). Then, holding the
 trowel against the chimney
 just below the joint you're filling, slice off a portion of the
 mortar with a pointing trowel and pack it into the joint. (Image 1)
 
 4.
 When the joints in an area are all full, strike off the excess by
 slicing through the mortar with a brick trowel held flat against the
bricks.
 
 5.
 Compress, shape and smooth the joint. Run a jointing tool across the
 joints for concave and V joints (see B). Or use the tip of a
 pointing trowel to create
 a 30-degree bevel from the underside of the upper course to the edge
 of the lower course. Knock off any excess and move up to the next
 section. (Image
 2)
 
 6.
 When the joints have set up, clean the face of the brick with a soft
brush.
 
 Repairing a chimney crown
 
 Steps:
 1.
 If a traditional crown made of portland cement and sand is badly
 eroded or cracked, replace it with a modern (crown-sealer) system.
 These coatings, which
 you can apply with a trowel (following the manufacturer's
 instructions), remain flexible and provide a far superior water
 seal. If the crown has some cracks
 and is beginning to show wear, or even if a masonry crown is in good
 condition, consider using this material as part of an overall chimney
repair.
 
 2.
 Seal joints between the clay flue's liner and the crown with
 high-temperature caulk.
 
 Overall Tips:
 
 For very minor tuck-pointing repairs, use mortar-patching material
 in caulking-gun cartridges.
 
 
 
 
 **
 This message and its attachments may contain legally
 privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
 intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
 information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
 in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
 e-mail and delete the e-mail.
 
 Any content of this message and its attachments which
 does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
 must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
 Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
 attachment(s) are free from computer 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] old ceiling fixture

2006-08-24 Thread R S Enterprises
Sadly enough I have saw similiar fixtures.  Different ones were put together
differently.  If it is all painted up options become limited.
Well you or your wife probably will not like this one.  Unless you really
want to repair, rewire these for the antique value the most expediant thing
to do is use a cold chisel, punch or such lay it against the ceramic fixture
and rap it soundly with a hammer.  Make sure to wear safety goggles and long
sleeves and gloves would not hurt.  that stuff can break into some sharp
pieces.
You will likely find there is no electrical junction box in the ceiling so
when enough of the fixture is broken away some screws will show up being in
wood.  Hopefully destroying the first one will allow you to determine how it
was put together so maybe you will not have to break the others.  If you are
down to small enough pieces they can sometimes be crushed with a pair of
channel lock pliers.
The simplest replacement electrical junction box to hang the new fixture on
is called a ceiling pan.  They come in 3 1/2 inch and 4 inch round sizes.
They are only one half inch in deph so you can chisel out the plaster screw
it to the ceiling lathe and it will be flush with the ceiling.  If the new
fixture allows it you can sometimes not bother with cutting the plaster out
and just run the screws through it.
I would also not be suprised to see just two black wires with very brittle
crumbling insulation up there.  Use some shrink tube or pull some insulation
off some new wire to recover them.  The old knob and tube stuff had some
advantages but the insulation does dry out.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: phil bleyhl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 11:06 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] old ceiling fixture


 In our old house in the upstairs bedrooms are ceiling fixtures which are a
small ceramic cylinder about 2 inches wide and about the same length.  There
is a small dome on the bottom and out of the center hole hands a forlorn
cord - actually two old fuzzy cords brittle with age -- and at the end of
each is a light socket with a light bulb and no shield until my daughter
cleverly hung a japanese paper lanter on hers.  Naturally a short has
appeared.  It is in the fixture.

   I turned the power off and confidently thought I would open it up and
repair the short.  There were no screws at the base.  I poked at the dome
with a screw driver and paint fell out of two holes one on each side of the
center.  I turned out screws at the bottom of the holes.  Each is small and
about a half inch long.  The holes were about as deep as the dome is high
from the edge of the cylinders.

   Nothing happened when the screws came out.

   I attempted to turn the dome.  Nothing happened.

   I thumped the cylinder.  Nothing happened.

   These things are covered with paint and I could feel no seam along the
body.  So here is the question how do you remove the fixtures or get inside
without destroying the fragile plaster ceilings?

   When I ask people about this.  There is nothing but silence.  Like who
would have such old fixtures anyway?

   Are these things two pieces or one?

   Incidently, grousing about how difficult this was and who would paint a
ceramic fixture anyway?  I was informed by my wife, that if they were an
ugly brown you might.  Needless to say I dropped the subject.

   Any suggestions?


 -
 Do you Yahoo!?
  Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail.

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] handheld circ saws was Compound Miter Saws?

2006-08-24 Thread R S Enterprises
The make a variety of guides the easiest being a 1 x 2 or 1 x 4 clamped down
with two c clamps and use the left hand to make sure the circular saws left
table edge runs tight against the guide board.  Working slow and carefully
you can make a straighter cut than pros using their eyes.  The secret is
keeping the saw tight against the guide.  If the cut is real long you should
be careful not to bend the board in the middle.  Note some people use angle
iron, alluminum strips etc.  I happen to have a two piece aluminum jig that
is two four foot plus sections that slide together to make it long enough to
rip a 8 foot sheet of plywood.. There is a slot built in underneath that two
clamps slide in.  There has been some times when I put a screw in the middle
to keep me from bending it by pushing the saw too hard against it.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: William Stephan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] handheld circ saws was Compound Miter Saws?


 Any of you folks have experience with handheld circular saws? Aside from
the obvious danger factor, is it possible to build a guide so straight cuts
can be made with one?

 Bill Stephan
 Kansas City, MO
 (816)803-2469
 William Stephan


 -Original Message-
 From: John Schwery[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: 8/24/06 8:14:45 AM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Compound Miter Saws?

 Andy, line up the edge of the blade with your mark so the blade won't
 cut away whatever you want to keep.  Dale asked which is more
 versatile, a table saw or miter saw.  I have never used a miter saw
 so I can't speak for those.  It seems that one can't rip too easily
 with a miter saw so I would think that would be one limitation for a
 miter saw.  So, in cross cutting, even though a miter saw may be more
 convenient, that is why I went with a portable table saw.  Also, I
 don't have much space so I needed a saw that would store in a small space.

 earlier, Andy LaPointe, wrote:
 Hi, I would like to purchase a table miter saw to cut various
 things.  I have never used one so, I would like to get everyone's
 opinion on how to use this
 or maybe some file with different info in it that will help me make
 a good decision.
 One question I have is how do I know where to place the piece to cut
 and know that the blade will cut along the marking that I made.  I
 am sorry for such
 an elementary question but, this is probably the best place to
 ask.  I guess you don't ask a car salesman how to read
 braille.  Thank you for any time
 you give me.  Andy.
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 To listen to the show archives go to link
   http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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  From Various List Members At The Following Address:
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy
 Man list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 

 John




 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building saw hourses

2006-08-22 Thread R S Enterprises
Saw horse height depends a lot on what you are using them for and your
height.  I would not go less than 24 inches, but likely 30 inches will be
ablout right.  length of the cross board usally works ok at 36 inches.  And
for what it is worth I have never sawed the bottom of the legs at a angle.
They are just cut to length and I guess the corner set on the floor or as
Dale said they stick better in the ground.Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building saw hourses


 Leg length will depend on your preference or your purpose. You may wish to
 deliberately make the horses the same height as a table saw table or a
 jointer table so you can use them to assist with out feed or in feed or
 both. You may want one an inch or so lower so when a sheet comes off the
saw
 and begins to drop it won't push the horse over. If you are short like me
 and want to put a knee onto a board you are cutting by hand you will want
a
 horse a different height to someone who wants it to support dry wall they
 are raising to the ceiling.

 The angle you need to the floor will depend on the angle dictated by the
 steel braces. Many people don't bother about that though, if working in
sand
 or mud maybe you don't want an angle so the corners of the bottom of the
leg
 will might into the dirt.

 As for the length, again this will depend on how you intend to use the
horse
 or horses. Generally I start mine out at about three feet because I will
 probably be using them to support plywood for cutting which means I will
be
 removing something from the 4 foot width and therefore will want at least
 some of the edge over the end of the top board of my horse. Of course just
 how much will determine how far I push the sheet over the end of the
horses
 but there is already one foot built in and the horses will take up less
room
 than if they are four feet.

 Personally I go for about 32 inches high and about three feet wide and
about
 15 degrees off  vertical or a little less, enough to be stable but not so
 much that I am tripping over the ends of the legs when hurrying around the
 horses.

 I hope this is helpful, or at least gives you a few ideas.

 Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Skype Dale
 Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


 - Original Message - 
 From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:42 AM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building saw hourses


  I found some corrners the other day for building your own saw horses.
  My questions are as follows
  How lond should I cut the legs, How long should I cut the top cross
board
  and what angle should I cut the bottom of the leg so that it will sit
  flush
  on the ground.
 
  I imagine I could make them any size I wish but What is tipacle?
 
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
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  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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  Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.4/424 - Release Date:
21/08/2006
 
 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Thermometer

2006-08-17 Thread R S Enterprises
I do not know about his, but the one I spliced was a ssmall coax cable so it
was pretty easy to keep the polarity correct, but so much for shielding at
that section.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Thermometer


 Phil,
 How did you splice the wires?
 solder I hope. Are you absolutely sure you didhn't reverse them?

 I'm assuming the sensor would be a thermister which changes resistance
with
 temperature, thus if by some means you got some extra resistance in your
 fix you could change the reading.

 Also are you sure the sensor is in exactly the same place as it was before
 the damage?

 All these being O.K. I'm puzzled.

 How do you KNOW for sure the sensor is wrong?

 Tom



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance

2006-08-17 Thread R S Enterprises
Interesting I had not noticed this resistor. I'll do some careful resistance
checks next time I am in one of these buggers.  Additionaly ceiling fans
also use a two section capacitor so section a alone, or b alone, or both are
connected into the winding circuit for speed change.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Max Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance


 This message has two paragraphs.  If you think you are not interested in
the
 first one, skip to the second one.

 Actually I am betting on congealed  oil in the bearings.  About the only
 cure for this is to dissolve it with new oil.  The right way to do it
would
 be to tear down the motor and clean out the bearings with kerosene but
 that's a lot more work then a couple of drops of oil.

 Dan.  Some of those box fans place a resistor in series to cause more
 slippage in the induction motor and let the fan run slow.  This works with
a
 fan because the load on the motor is always the same at a given speed.
The
 resistor is usually not recognizable as a resistor but is distributed
along
 the cable connecting the switch to the motor.  In such a fan the cable
will
 feel slightly warm after prolonged operation at medium or slow speed.  The
 distributed resistor can become open, that is, burned out, although there
is
 not likely to be any burned smell or scorched insulation.  The fan might
be
 repaired by replacing the resistance cable with a discrete resistor.  A
more
 usual way of changing the speed of a fan is to have taps on the motor
 winding.  Such tapped windings are more expensive to manufacture than a
 simple coil.  Which method is used is an economic decision by the
 manufacturer.  Whether a tapped motor winding or a resistance cable costs
 more.

 Regards.

 Max.  K 4 O D S.

 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
 Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
 Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

 To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 - Original Message - 
 From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:47 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance


  Just out of curiosity, can Max or Tom shed a bit more light on the fan
  subject?  I wonder if it is not something electronic and not just
  mechanical, such as burned out coils on the transformer or something
like
  that.
 
  I also had a big box fan that I ran every night for white noise.  I ran
it
  on medium speed for years.  After a long time, if I turned the fan on
  medium it would not start turning.  I could possibly feel a bit of
  vibration like it might sort of been trying to turn, but it just
wouldn't
  get started.  However, if I turned it on low or high, it worked just
fine.
  If I turned it on high, let it get started, then turned it to medium,
  sometimes it would stay going, but more often than not it would just
slow
  to a stop.
 
  Later.
 
  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
 
  Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following Address:
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
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  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance

2006-08-16 Thread R S Enterprises
Yep that can happen with the newer imports.  In that case you drill out the
rivets and reinstall 1/8 inch all thread with nuts and cut off the excess
rod after installed.
More trouble than it is worth?  Maybe, but what is my time worth when I am
working for myself.  Particulary when I am repairing something they designed
to be non serviceable..
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance


 ron,
 Very good detail, but I've seen motors put together with long rivvets,
 and that would make taking them appart more than the fan would be worth.

 Probably the older the fan the more likely it is to be repairable.

 Tom



 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance

2006-08-16 Thread R S Enterprises
Ahh, I think that is normally referred to as 60 hertz or 60 cycle.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: Jay Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance


 Your ceiling fan is running from 120hz alternating current as is anything
 running off your house current. Anything with a motor or transformer will
 generate this hum, acoustically, so any surface in contact with the motor
or
 transformer becomes a soundingboard. A ceiling is one humongoloid
 soundingboard. Some sort of shockmounts are needed to isolate the
appliance
 from its soundingboard.
 Jay
 - Original Message -
 From: Shawn Keen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 9:02 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance


  Oo, good topic, what causes fans to humm? Sealing fans that is.
 
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance
 
 
   Just out of curiosity, can Max or Tom shed a bit more light on the fan
   subject?  I wonder if it is not something electronic and not just
   mechanical, such as burned out coils on the transformer or something
 like
   that.
  
   I also had a big box fan that I ran every night for white noise.  I
ran
 it
   on medium speed for years.  After a long time, if I turned the fan on
   medium it would not start turning.  I could possibly feel a bit of
   vibration like it might sort of been trying to turn, but it just
 wouldn't
   get started.  However, if I turned it on low or high, it worked just
 fine.
   If I turned it on high, let it get started, then turned it to medium,
   sometimes it would stay going, but more often than not it would just
 slow
   to a stop.
  
   Later.
  
   --
   Blue skies.
   Dan Rossi
   Carnegie Mellon University.
   E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Tel: (412) 268-9081
  
  
   To listen to the show archives go to link
   http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
   or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
   http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  
   Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
   Various List Members At The Following Address:
   http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
   Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Man
   list just send a blank message to:
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   --
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   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
   Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.10.10/419 - Release Date:
 8/15/2006
  
  
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
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  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
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  Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
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  Visit the new archives page at the following address
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
 list just send a blank message to:
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  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 




 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas

2006-08-08 Thread R S Enterprises
A couple of thoughts on this.  I have used 4 x 8 sheets in my daughters
attic for storage. I rip them into 2 x 8 pieces which fit up most holes or
you need to enlargge the hole to this size or you will not be able to get
much of anything up there.  In my garage I have made a hinged access door in
the gable end outside to be able to get things in the attic.  The sheet good
I use is 1/2 or 15/32 chipboard roof sheathing screwed dowm with 1 1/4 inch
drywall screws if you are afraid of jiggling the ceiling or 6 penney common
nails will work.  These sheets are lain at right angles to the joists.  I
put the smooth side up for easier sliding of cardboard boxes.
Ron
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas


 I'm in the same situation as I find that the insolation in my attic must
 be under done.
 I thought of 2x 8 ft halves of ply but crossing that 20x 14 ft above the
 livingroom was nearly doomed to crack plaster while I lay out bats of
 insolation.
 How do we cover this? for material and personal safety?


 On Sun, 6 Aug 2006, Shawn Keen wrote:

  Okay, I had another look.
 
  What do they have for a floor up there now?
  a board that's probably about 3 foot wide and 8 feet long.  that's a
  guestament.
  the beams up there are  2 by 8.
  Only the space just beyond the ladder and too the air conditioning unit
is
  covered right now.
 
  Generally you wouldn't be able to get sheets of plywood up through the
  trap
  door so you will need to use plank construction. One trouble though is
  nailing, the joists are probably only 2 by 4 and not rigid enough,
  hammering
  and moving about particularly over wider spans like a living room will
  probably cause movement and cracks in the ceiling plaster or screws or
  nails
  to pop.
 
  Just guessing but I think the beams up there are about 3 feet apart. I
  didn't look at all of them but the ones around the opening were.
 
 
  You could screw or use a power nailer.
 
  Oh for-sure, . grin screws all the way.
 
 
  Guess I'll be making a trip to home depot next weekend.  I just want to
get
  a surface to walk on in place then I can tackle the rest of it.
 
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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  Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
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  Visit the new archives page at the following address
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] pack rat

2006-08-06 Thread R S Enterprises
I may be wrong.  Heavan forbid, but isn't saving stuff part  of being a
handyperson.  We don't want to be running to the store to get the proper
repair part.  I want it on the premises so I can respond quickly to the
emergency repair.  Well maybe a little far in explaination but a large
variety of fasteners is just plain necessary, as is the left over paint for
touching up nicks and such.  Also needed is a small supply of lumber,
threaded rod, sheetmetal, angle iron for design changes in multiple
projects.  Definately needed is toliet repair parts, faucet parts along with
switches, outlets, coverplates and a few spare circuit breakers.  You never
know when one of those little pests can go bad at 3 am.
Don't get me wrong I save aluminun cans and sell them off for scrap metal
along with copper wire I have burned the insulation off of and other scrap
metals.  You get a little pocket change and dispose of some plain junk.  I
have always recycled wood scraps in my garage wood stove, but only the
little pieces.  Kind of like drinking, temperance in all things.  And a lot
depends on the space you have for storage also.  My motto has been, if you
don't have room to store it, then build another addition.
End of sermon, depart in peace.
Ron


- Original Message - 
From: clifford [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 4:37 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pack rat


 Dear Barry and list members:
 Your list of indications that you might have some tendencies in common
with pack rats, is all to familiar.  My father grew up in the depression and
he never threw anything away that might some day be repaired or needed for
any type of project.  That attitude was passed down to me in tact.  I firmly
believe that is the reason my wife now claims that our home is entirely too
small, even though our son has moved out with some of his belongings.  We
are still storing his star wars toys, GI Joe, and trains a plenty.
 I suspect there is no cure for this condition, especially when a saved
bolt or carter pin finds a home, or that old chair is finally repaired after
twenty-five years of taking up space.

 Yours Truly,

 Clifford Wilson

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible OBD-II unit

2006-08-05 Thread R S Enterprises
The accessible multimeter I use was purchased from a Canadian friend.  Some
on the list have offerred to help in this.  If no one chimes in you might
check the archives for a past posting.   There is also one available in US
for something like $600 which is nuts.  I don't know of any accessible car
code readers yet.  Stuck with sighted help.  I know it ain't always
available  If you have the buck a factory service manual is best.  Sighted
help or equipment to read text is needed.  Ford products manuals are sold by
Helm co.  I think they do others but don't have the info handy.
- Original Message - 
From: Mickey Fixsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible OBD-II unit


 Who makes these multimeters and code readers in accessible versions?
 Thanks.
   - Original Message - 
   From: R  S Enterprises
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 4:36 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible OBD-II unit


   I am not familiar with the OBD II equipment. For car problems a good
   digital multimeter allong with some code reader will get you goiing on a
lot
   of problems. There appers to be two levels of code readers. There is a
low
   end one that goes around here for about $50 bucks and the top of the
line
   for $200 to $300 that does of course more. Other than that a service
manual
   for your perticular car will also help.
   Ron
   - Original Message - 
   From: Otis Blue [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 3:35 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible OBD-II unit

Hi,
   
Could someone tell me if there's an accessible portable diagnostic
machine
for diagnosing car problems? I'm thinking of purchasing one of those
   OBD-II
machines which helps diagnosing car problems. I would really
appreciate
some info on this.
   
   
   
Otis Blue
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web site: http://www.computerguydirect.com
Voice: 414-461-8885
Fax: 414-461-8856
Skype: blueboy402
   
   
   
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
   
The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
   
The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
   
Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
   Various List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Man
   list just send a blank message to:
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 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
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 Yahoo! Groups Links







 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.5/407 - Release Date: 8/3/06




To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List