Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

A piece of a plastic bag tied to a string, then sucked with a shop vac
works well, I would be concerned that cotton could get wet and not be
effective. We used the bag method often for sucking a string through up to
300' of conduit underground.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Halcyon Passage
https://www.facebook.com/halcyonpassage
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35* (for sale)*
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 4:25 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I meant "golf" ball
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> Date: 2023-06-17 14:31 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement
>
> A hold ball with a string (and a shopvac) is also a good option
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
> Date: 2023-06-17 11:26 (GMT-05:00)
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement
>
> Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and
> have sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the
> local Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be
> attempted tomorrow, so no time for shipping.
>
>
>
> Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end
> as a backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall
> people using a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on
> the other end to pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two
> hoses / coupler with duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board]
> to hopefully secure it.  There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has
> been Shanghaied into helping, and will have handy what is called the
> “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list.
>
>
>
> I will post how it goes….
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Jonathan Tebbens 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement
>
>
>
> Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis
> notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through
> everything.
>
> Jon Tebbens
>
> 78 Mega
>
> Katherine
>
>
>
> On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes
> loose, you're cooked.
>
>
>
> Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.
>
>
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
>
>
> Here's one for $1
>
>
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
>
>
> --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry
> and wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.
> [I found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the
> culprit – if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes
> through a ¾” (?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into
> a space which is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up
> through a 1” plywood and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the
> hull, then through another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck.
>
>
>
> The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
> holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
> the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
> ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
> icebox with the old hose in place.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to
> go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to
> hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
> inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.
>
>
>
> Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it
> [am not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings
> through small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well]
> to pull new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be
> punched in the new 

Stus-List Re: Force 10 Stove

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I would assume so, but can't say for sure. Our mk2 has one and it's a great
stove.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Halcyon Passage
https://www.facebook.com/halcyonpassage
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35* (for sale)*
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Jun 15, 2023 at 6:15 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does the standard American size Force 10 3-burner stove fit the C 35 MK
> I?
>
> I would assume it does, but want to check.
>
> I am thinking of going from CNG to propane, CNG is very hard to source now
> in most places.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *DCSI*
>
> *410-966-7255*
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Callisto for sale. 1974 35mk2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hello all,

Our search for our next boat to head offshore is finally over, and we take
possession tomorrow to begin a major refit on her. She is a 1978 Fast
Passage 39, and the original owner wanted us to be her next caretakers,
despite us saying no - they made an offer we couldn't refuse, and we knew
that boats like this don't come along often (only 36 were made by
Philbrooks right here in Sidney, and she has spent most of her life coastal
cruising, so is lightly used for an offshore boat).

This means that we must place Callisto up for sale. The news came along
very suddenly, so Callisto is still very much in cruising mode with the
fridge and freezer stocked with food, and we have plans to cruise a few
times before early July before diving into a refit with Halcyon Passage at
the boatyard.

If you're looking for a solid and well-equipped, ready-to-cruise C
(located near Victoria, BC), send me a message and I will forward you more
info - I am still compiling all the upgrades done since 2019 - along with
some photos, and a list of those items which I would be doing this year if
we were not selling. I have gone over every inch of this boat since we
bought her, and it's all on the FB page in my sig, so there are no
surprises here.

In case you were wondering, we considered outfitting Callisto for offshore,
but decided against this plan for two main reasons: we want a private aft
cabin for crew, and a bit more stowage space for extended offshore
voyaging, as I am hopeful that we will continue beyond Mexico...

I will miss the C gang for sure, so might just drop by on occasion to say
hello.

Fair winds!

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Ritchie Compass Repair

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

How much did they charge? Mine has been sitting in a box for a few years
due to a cracked dome and slow leak.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, May 30, 2023 at 9:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The good news: Not only is my leak fixed, I think they just sent me a new
> compass. I cannot identify any part that doesn’t look brand new. If it
> lasts another 50 years I will be happy.
>
> The ??? news: The light is green instead of red. I am not sure I like
> this, I will have to see how it goes.
>
> The bad news: I am not 100% sure it will mount without some effort, It is
> not obvious if it has the same screw holes.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Universal Westerbeke Tachometer/Hour Meter

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I'd go with the Datcon, and if you want to be sure of the RPM, buy or
borrow an optical tach to calibrate it. Handheld optical tachs are about
$30 online.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Apr 23, 2023 at 6:08 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well, gosh darn.  Touche's engine hour meter died (or went to sleep).
> Engine is Universal 25XPB.  Boat is in yard 4 hours away so I'm just
> probing around the web for options.
>
> First, it may be repairable.  Might just be a poor connection.  I probably
> won't tackle it until I get the boat back to its home slip in Louisiana
> in a couple weeks.  An hour meter isn't that critical.  However, on the
> chance that it isn't repairable, I have two options.
>
> First, install a stand alone waterproof hour meter.  Cost $20-40 depending
> on selection and another hole in the bulkhead.
>
> Second, replace the tachometer/hour meter.  Did that once already.  Here's
> where it gets interesting.  It's Westerbeke part 011917.  Typical online
> price is about $340 US.
>
>
> https://westerbeke.com/Product/METER/011917?productname=METER=54202996DAF73B1CA82D59C6
>
> So I Googled "tachometer/hour meter" and probed around.  Guess what?  A
> Datcon 71725-00 tach/hour meter for about* 1/3* of Westerbeke's price.
> Looks identical.  Spec says data source is alternator which I believe the
> 25XPB is.  Here's the tach:
>
>
> https://vehiclecontrols.com/shopping/shop700/products1/453057044-71725-00-datcon-tachometer-with-hourmeter-4000rpm/
>
> Very interesting.  Could this be the same tach?  3 3/8" hole.  Next time
> I'm on the boat, I'll verify the diameter and alternator data sensor.  If I
> can't repair it, I'll replace it with the Datcon.  Anybody know why I
> shouldn't?
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Cored hulls and repairs

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting read, but definitely more applicable to deck coring rather than
hull. My understanding is that hull coring failures usually result in much
larger areas and require a full peel as a result.

Callisto's deck was extensively repaired with epoxy during a year-long
refit by a previous owner in the early 90s and is still doing very well.
The area around the mast collar is rock solid with many epoxy holes drilled
approx every 1-2". Having the boat in a dry shop for a year was no doubt a
big help in allowing the epoxy to work well.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 6:58 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Interesting article given recent discussions here.
>
>
> https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/can-glue-injection-fix-rotten-core?MailingID=1184=WIR20230326-PaintingYourBoatSeries=email_source=ActiveCampaign_medium=email_content=Can+Glue+Injection+Fix+Rotten+Core%3F_campaign=WIR20230326-PaintingYourBoatSeries
>
> Dave 33-2 windstar
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks, all for the feedback on the LF43. We have decided to pass on the
boat recently listed on FB (Tarquin). The decision was based on a
combination of price and some unexplained water damage on the starboard
side that made me uncomfortable. Additional photos also showed too many
owner additions that I'd need to remove or revert, such as a front opening
Norcold fridge. Wire nuts used on some of the wiring also didn't help. If
the boat was closer to us, it's possible that I could put some of these
concerns to rest on my own, but I still feel it is overpriced at 50K
compared with two others on YW, and the sellers are confident it will sell.

But we came away liking the boat very much, so will keep it on our list as
we carry on with our search.

Thanks again.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Cored hulls feedback wanted

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

Sorry, I should have clarified that I meant balsa cored hull only. I'm not
concerned with decks, and am comfortable fixing small areas there. I don't
believe many boats used balsa cored hulls other than C, and certainly not
many meant for bluewater cruising, but I could be wrong. Having seen first
hand how involved a cored hull repair can be (a Landfall 42, and it was
above the waterline, caused by a rafted power boat and some big wake), it
does concern me, but maybe I worry too much...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Mar 20, 2023 at 5:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Balsa Core:  I'm pretty sure balsa coring was used by almost every
> manufacturer from the 70's, 80's and 90's to save weight, add stiffness,
> and problems can be detected by a decent survey.  C used Balsa but so did
> Pearson, O'Day, Columbia, Ericson, Swan, Baltic, Beneteau, Jeanneau,
> Peterson, Morgan, Hunter, Catalina, Columbia, on and on.  If you held a
> piece of balsa cored deck and compared it's lightness and stiffness to a
> solid laminate, you'd understand why a cored hull is so amazing and highly
> desirable.  I'd say 90% of the boats in the average boatyard are balsa
> cored boats, sailboats and powerboats.
>
> I've done some balsa core replacement and can share photos, but the end
> result is faired and painted and the repairs are undetectable, so my boat
> now looks better than when I bought her twenty years ago.  Plus, all of my
> deck penetrations are now overdrilled, filled with thickened epoxy, and
> redrilled for the fasteners, so the balsa is sealed from moisture, which
> wasn't done when my boat was built.  If a deck fastener leaks over time,
> the water will pass the balsa core and drip into the boat, alerting the
> owner to rebed the fitting.
>
> Many balsa cored boats are sailing offshore and around the world.
>
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
>
>
>
>
>
> On 03/20/2023 7:06 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> As we once again consider a boat with cored hull (LF43 or LF38), I am
> reminded of why we eventually chose our current 35 four years ago. I
> couldn't be sure of the hull integrity without an expensive survey, and at
> the low price range we could afford, avoiding a cored hull just removed
> this concern.
>
> But as I understand it, most C over 35' have been cored since the late
> 60s or early 70s depending on the model, so that includes a lot of boats,
> most of which are probably still sailing, albeit mainly coastal cruising or
> racing. Now as we consider the next boat for our long term offshore boat,
> things like potential hull damage from a reef or a collision in a remote
> part of the world are a concern.
>
> So I am interested in hearing about experiences with cored C, problem
> which have occurred under both normal use and as a result of damage from
> impact, and how effectively they could be repaired.
>
> I guess an additional question is how C's balsa coring compares with
> modern day foam coring, either with or without vacuum bagging. I assume
> foam has some advantages in not absorbing water.
>
> Thanks.
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Cored hulls feedback wanted

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

As we once again consider a boat with cored hull (LF43 or LF38), I am
reminded of why we eventually chose our current 35 four years ago. I
couldn't be sure of the hull integrity without an expensive survey, and at
the low price range we could afford, avoiding a cored hull just removed
this concern.

But as I understand it, most C over 35' have been cored since the late
60s or early 70s depending on the model, so that includes a lot of boats,
most of which are probably still sailing, albeit mainly coastal cruising or
racing. Now as we consider the next boat for our long term offshore boat,
things like potential hull damage from a reef or a collision in a remote
part of the world are a concern.

So I am interested in hearing about experiences with cored C, problem
which have occurred under both normal use and as a result of damage from
impact, and how effectively they could be repaired.

I guess an additional question is how C's balsa coring compares with
modern day foam coring, either with or without vacuum bagging. I assume
foam has some advantages in not absorbing water.

Thanks.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Only three LF43s that I know of for sale right now, 2 on YW, and one on FB.
No idea how many were made, and I suspect any that have seen hull damage in
the past 10-15 years were instantly written off (which of course is a
concern for offshore...)

We are also considering the Nelson-Marek designed Morgan 43/44/45, which
seem to offer a lot of the same things as a LF43 with a solid hull, and are
easier to find. Not as nice looking of course, and the interiors tend to be
darker. Not sure about other issues on them.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Mar 20, 2023 at 8:22 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sure – that was not meant to mean the boats have a problem or are bad in
> any way.
>
> If people like them, they’ll keep them!
>
> If you want a Catalina 40, there are tons of them to look at. That makes
> shopping easy. That doesn’t mean the boats are good, but they aren’t hard
> to find.
>
> There are probably what – 4 or so LF 43s for sale on the entire planet?
> That means you’ll be taking what you can find, if you don’t like the color
> of the curtains or something that is too bad 
>
>
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin,

Thanks for the feedback. Raven looks great! How is the mainsheet clearance
for the aft end of the enclosure? Looks like it might be close. Do you have
a traveller or just two blocks for the mainsheet? It looks like you don't
have the inner forestay, but do have a babystay? I notice most LF43s have a
traveller track just forward of the mast, which I assume is for a self
tacking staysail on a boom? I've only seen one fully rigged as a cutter
with furling staysail, but am not sure how it's all rigged.
Sounds like the lack of deck storage can be mitigated in a few ways, maybe
with some of the storage across from the engine.
I've been aboard a few CC boats (Hylas, Whitby, Moody, Taswell, Westerly)
and of course the cockpit when enclosed is great, and the interiors are
usually amazing, but I have never sailed one. I expect the
improved visibility will be welcome. I was going to ask about your dinghy -
are those storage hangers on the stern of Raven? Have you stored it on the
foredeck before?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 4:25 PM Kevin Wright  wrote:

> Hi Shawn,
> I had an Olson 30 I raced on lake Ontario, the Landfall is not that. It
> sails well for being a 43' cruising boat (modified fin, short rig). To
> be honest, I don't pay too much attention to how fast we're going and how
> much wind there is. When there's wind we sail, when we drop below 2 knots
> we fire up the engine and get to where we want to be. All that being said,
> it's a great boat. Maybe someone else can chime in here with better info.
>
> As for deck storage it has the 2 aft deck lockers, one is for a 20lb
> propane tank (Fits snug) the starboard side is more than twice as big, we
> store a second tank and flippers and masks etc. There's a line locker on
> the port side next to the cockpit, we keep all our dock lines and a 10L
> jerry can and has room for 2 small bags of garbage. The boat has no place
> to store sails, when we go on vacation we store the kite in the shower with
> the extra beer. The anchor locker is big, on top of the chain and rode for
> the 2 anchors we keep the portable generator there with lots of room to
> spare.
>
> I find the cockpit to be plenty big and comfortable, no complaints. All
> center cockpits are not easy to get in and out of if they have an
> enclosure, probably one of the reasons why the backrest are the
> height they are. We have a full enclosure at one height (see link below)
> like having an extra living room in all weather.  I upgraded to a folding
> 40" wheel, which makes it feel a bit more racy :)
>
> I looked at the boat on FB, ours is set up a bit differently. Where the FB
> boat has the captain's birth we have workbench and shelves. Below that is
> lots of storage.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/h1kn0cmw1nk3aqo/20220815.jpg?dl=0
>
> *Kevin Wright*
> Raven
> 1985 Landfall 43
> Midland ON
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Yes, I have spent far too much time thinking about and looking at boats,
and it gets exhausting. I have looked at a few Whitbys, and while they are
comfortable, look ok, and have a nice layout, the full keel is a turn off
for me, and I find their fit and finish pretty mediocre inside. The later
Brewer 44 is a much nicer boat, but way too expensive. We have widened the
search to pretty much all of North America, as although BC has lots of
boats, few are for sale, and the prices are much higher.

Although travelling to buy a boat could be a real pain, if there is a
savings and the boat is right for us, we may have to do it. It will be made
easier if the boat is near cruise ready condition of course. The Landfall
43 we're looking at is currently cruising, but I am beginning to have my
doubts about the experience of the young couple, as some of their answers
indicate a lack of knowledge or concern for things like rig, chainplates,
and water leaks. They also tore out the stock fridge/freezer and installed
a Novacool front load fridge, which seems really awkward, and not a
suitable move for long range cruising. My guess is they bought the boat
cheap to go cruising with their young family, and didn't consider it a long
term purchase.

What kind of sailing do you plan for your Ovni? I've only seen one, but
they seem like really nice boats.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 4:22 PM Dave S  wrote:

> Interesting and you’ve obviously thought it through.   Great fun looking
> and pondering.  I do struggle with the ‘80s centre cockpit types, for
> reasons I mentioned,  despite feeling otherwise at one point.  (And really
> wanting to love and buy an amel super maramu before locking in on the
> OVNI).There are whitby 42s around here among others that come up from
> time to time, they seem like real bargains for someone looking at that
> range/type.
> I was in Kingston once and a c 44 pulled in, single handed by a super
> nice older-than-me guy.  Boat totally equipped for offshore which the owner
> intimated might never happen.   no expense spared, which at first impressed
> me then I thought about why the various compromises may not work very well.
>But…. With all that gear removed- breathtaking lines.RIP Rob Ball.
> I was tempted by a landfall 48 at one point, was in the yard here (whitby
> ON) for a long time before it sold.  Deep draft, which around here can be
> an issue.   Seemed like a lot of boat for the money, though of course
> there’s no such thing as a cheap boat.
> Offshore boats are thin on the ground around here and even in Nova Scotia
> where I had a place and where my dad lives.   I actually spent time in
> Brittany boat shopping as a result.  Incredible.   As hockey is to canada,
> sailing is to France.
> Should be no shortage of boats in your neck of the woods though, Happy
> hunting.
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I have, they are not too common, and usually well out of our price range.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 5:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looked at a Caliber 40 LRC?
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for chiming in, some good points there. I have noticed that
relationship between cockpit sole height/boom height and aft cabin space,
and it is one thing I dislike about many of the newer C, although I
could probably get used to it. I recall spending a few hours in a 37+ and
then returning to our 35 and remarking how much more comfortable it was.
But the 37+ had an aft cabin. The 41 seems to be a fair tradeoff, with at
least one large cockpit locker; the 44 is a no go for me. I'm not sure
where the LF43 falls, as I haven't seen one yet, and the photos don't give
much clue to locker space, but I suspect it is tight. I fit 4 jerry cans in
my 35 lockers, along with a big plastic tub with 600' of prawn line, prawn
trap, crab trap, etc. and it's still not full. I don't think any of the new
boats have lockers like this, so I just have to get used to carrying more
junk on deck I guess.
The LF43 cockpit appears to have gone with a low coaming approach for
looks, and has tons of headroom below, so the seat backs are low, and there
is poor backrest space everywhere it appears. Can be fixed with some rigid
back folding cushions though. One thing I know that I will give up is the
ability to singlehand, at least to/from a dock. I just can't see getting
any centre cockpit boat onto a dock in any kind of wind or current. That is
one big difference between the 43 and say a LF38. But our future is to sail
to Mexico and beyond, so day and short trip sailing around the coast like
we do now will be much less frequent. We love the feeling of an open-ended
cruise, and have done 6 weeks aboard our 35 entirely at anchor a few times,
usually with a re-provision stop after 2-3 weeks. The ability to go even
longer in a boat like the 43 is very attractive, as is the comfort level of
being on passage in a much heavier boat. I love sailing our 35, but in most
cases, if the wind is steady and there is sea room, I'm also happy to let
the autopilot take over. Our 35 tracks pretty well, but the wheel pilot is
only good in moderate conditions. One of the factors influencing the
decision is the realisation that although my wife and I have done a 2800M
passage on another boat, we're not ready to do one on our own, so the boat
we get must have room for crew, both on passage, and at anchor. That means
3 sea berths, and two private cabins. The LF43 works well, the LF38 would
be tight, and the 40 without aft cabin, or any earlier C with just a
quarter berth, really wouldn't cut it at anchor, although the sea berths
are fine.

It's all about the tradeoffs, and which things you're willing to let go of.
Friends sailed south in their Ovni last summer, and are past Mexico now.
Once when we sailed with the in our 35, we could point higher and started
to catch them, but they were a lot more comfortable in the cold!

Even if this particular boat doesn't work out (it's a long shot, since the
boat is in Florida and we're in BC, so we'd have to change plans big time),
I hope to come out of the experience with a clear indicate of whether the
LF43 is still on our list of boats or not. Because the list of boats I like
is far too long, and those we can afford is far too short

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 12:54 PM Dave S  wrote:

> Shawn - Fwiw - I’ll chime in having spent many years going through this,
> and having gotten comfortable with the various trade offs and just closed
> the purchase of my next boat (alubat OVNI 435….) I’ve accepted that Driving
> the OVNI will be more G-Wagen than Lotus…
> IMO Any c is pretty moderate in design (vs a pogo or Colin archer) and
> is performance-biased so it’ll probably ‘sail well’, broadly speaking.
> The rest comes down to how you’ll REALLY be using the boat.  How much time
> to windward, how often consecutive overnight sails, how much loafing in the
> comfy cockpit (go Hunter!) etc.  I hadn’t fully thought it through when
> boat shopping, and I got very lucky choosing windstar (c 33-2) in a lot
> of ways.   she can be single handed easily, and she goes to windward really
> well in all conditions, and I’m comfortable sailing in any conditions I’ve
> encountered here.   I didn’t fully appreciate that for ‘out and back’
> sailing, I’d be spending most of my time on the wind, (and loving it) and I
> wasn’t thinking much about singlehanding.  Her cockpit is …. Tolerable
> … for entertaining and while she ‘sleeps several’ she couldn’t keep them
> hydrated for long.  She has a big tall rig and here in Lake Ontario, that’s
> great. All this is relevant, all good for how and where the boat is
> used.She’s a great boat and I’ll miss the performance for sure.
> Otoh My dad advised that when he cruised his steel cutter he rarely sailed
> to windward, only steered when entering harbour or daysailing, and reefed
> his stout, conservative rig at sunset. He really valued the pilot berth,
> and hated not 

Stus-List Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin and other Landfall 43 owners:

"Sails well for what it is"... that's what concerns me... not sure I am
ready to sail a Hunter-bago! I know it won't accelerate or turn like my 35,
but I need to be sailing if there's wind, not motoring, as that would not
work for me.
So what is the minimum true wind speed you would sail in on a reach, and
what boat speed would you get? How much true wind do you need to get moving
at 7kts consistently? If you do offshore passages, what is a typical day,
and what is your best day range in 24 hrs?
How does it go upwind, and what is the AWA when closehauled and tuned for
best VMG?

On a different topic, how is the cockpit, and locker storage on deck? The
cockpit looks a bit shallow/small, with no good back rests. There appears
to be two small aft deck lockers, and one port side aft locker; one of
these I assume is propane. How large/deep are the lockers? One of the
reasons we didn't like the 44 was minimal locker space on deck, so this is
a concern also.

Thanks!
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Mar 17, 2023 at 2:14 PM Kevin Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Shawn,
> We have a 1985 Landfall 43 in Georgian Bay, going into our 3 season. Love
> the boat has all the room we need and more and it sails well for what it
> is. Haven't had any major issues, like David, our engine was replaced with
> a 55hp  Westerbeke and does 7 knots without any problems. The only thing we
> wished it had was some sort of sugar scoop to make it easier to get in and
> out of the dingy. I'm heading to the boat tomorrow to take some
> transom measurements to have a swim platform fabricated to help with that.
> Let us know how it turns out!
>
> *Kevin Wright*
> Raven
> 1985 Landfall 43
> Midland ON
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Landfall 43 opinions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hello all,

After years and many models considered for an offshore boat, a Landfall 43
has come along which seems to tick most of the boxes, and at a price we can
afford. Most of the boats I really like are way out of our price range
(Hylas, Passport, Tayana, etc)

So I am hoping to hear from those with direct experience with the Landfall
43 in terms of what to watch for, how they sail (I know it won't be like
our 35-2!), etc. The cored hull does make me a bit nervous, and the boat is
on the wrong coast, so a good survey will be needed. It has the original
Westerbeke 58 with about 5k hours that looks clean. I think this is the
same block as a Perkins 4-154. Pretty basic sailing setup, two mainsheets,
instead of traveller, cutter stay rigged but not used, not sure about
running backs. I would want a furler for the cutter stay, which means
running backs are probably needed. Interior looks pretty good, although
there are signs of water damage, mostly at the floor level on the starboard
side which seems odd. I would think if the boat had been flooded, the sole
would be shot, but maybe it was replaced.

We haven't made an offer yet, but might do so after talking further with
the owners. It's currently cruising in the Bahamas and will be available
next month in Florida. Yes, this is the one posted on the C FB group
yesterday, asking 49K USD. That price doesn't get us anything close in any
other boat, although might get us a Landfall 38, which is probably our next
choice.

Thanks!
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Cabin Ceiling Panels

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

The panels on my 35-2 are white plexiglass, and it is very pretty,
especially with the multitude of screw holes around the perimeter of each.
Possibly the 36 has a better mounting method. I'd prefer something more
forgiving than plexi though, and might just investigate a nice spray finish
while you have them all off.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 1:19 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello. I am in the process of pulling all my ceiling panels out so I can
> add new deck organizers, rope clutches and remove the four winches around
> the mast. My panels are a thin marine plywood/veneer covered with vinyl. I
> had painted them in place when I bought the boat and repainted the interior
> cabin sides and ceiling, after having to fix some issues with the cabin
> window frames etc. I am really tempted to replace and wanted to know if
> anyone had gone with a thin plexiglass? Thanks.
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Forward Hatch Handles

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Most like these are Atkins & Hoyle, one has been replaced on my 35. I was
able to carefully drill out and re-tap one of the locking screws on mine to
replace the seal. Of course, I need to do it again, as the seal I made was
too thick, and the handle is very stiff.

https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/parts-department.html
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Mar 11, 2023 at 7:52 PM Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement handles for the forward
> v-berth hatch on a 1979 C? I am replacing the hatch but cannot remove
> the pin/screw that holds the exterior knob in place on one of them. I think
> I may have to cut it off and get a new one.
>
> Thanks
> Brian C. Morrison
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I carry a lot of tools, but did cull some of them after the first season,
as many were duplicates which came with the boat but were of inferior
quality, or were badly corroded.

I have a large plastic toolbox with: complete screwdriver set (plus a good
multi tip driver), (3 each of standard, philips and roberston, plus
roberston #0 for small trim screws). Complete wrench set both metric and
SAE in a wrap. A wrap of custom made wrenches for the boat, made for hard
to access bits on the engine, supplied by PO. Needle nose pliers, channel
locks, side cutters, crescent wrenches. Several metal files, hacksaw with
spare metal cutting blades. Set of allen keys. Small hammer. Tap and die
set with common sizes (full set I leave at home).

In addition, I have a decent sized ratchet set in a case with 1/4, 3/8 and
1/2" drive sockets both metric and SAE up to 22mm, along with torx and hex
sockets.

I also have 3 plastic bins with electrical tools (meter, soldering
iron, crimpers, etc), connectors and wire, although could probably cull
down to one, but I always seem to have several minor electrical mods on the
todo list. I would rate this category *very* highly, as it takes very
little space, but can make the difference when something electrical goes
wrong.

I also have a set of 18V tools (circular saw, recip saw, drill, hammer
drill, flashlight) that I use for projects, but keep only the drill and
light aboard when sailing. Good set of drill bits as well.

Spare parts for nearly everything: starter, alternator, engine belts, water
pump, impellers, glow plugs, engine coolant premixed, zincs for engine and
shaft, macerator pump, water pressure pump. Large assortment of SS
fasteners, shackles, etc.

We have an electric dinghy motor which charges off solar, and the battery
is capable of starting the main engine in the event of total battery
failure. So far, I've only had to use it to jump start the car after
leaving it for several months... :)

Depends on where you sail, but we are often out 4-6 weeks at a time in
fairly remote areas, so being self-sufficient is important.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 10:34 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first
> boat and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I 
> wonder
> if anyone ever put together a list of hand tools to be kept on the boat
> that I could share with him.
>
> I also need to remove some unnecessary tools as the bag has gotten heavier
> over time.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck S
>

Stus-List Re: Genny-only sailing

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Until I made a sailpack and lazy jacks, I often avoided the main if big
winds were called for, as we'd had to douse it in 30+ a few times, which
wasn't fun. Now I don't hesitate to hoist the main, especially up wind. But
even downwind, I've found we can carry a full main up to 25 with no issues,
and I can reef it downwind fairly easily. That said, there are still times
I will leave it in the pack and sail with genoa or jib only, especially if
seas are rough. Yesterday we a nice downwind run with genoa and main in
15-25, and when gusts hit 25, I furled the genoa and the boat handled
occasional puffs to 30 just fine, running nearly DDW. The wind curled into
the bay and was still blowing 20 when we rounded up, dumped the main, and
set anchor.
In hindsight, just the genoa probably would have done the job just as well,
but it was the first sail in several weeks, so I just wanted to play. :)
After the wind didn't back by late afternoon as forecast, and we were
bounced in big swell at anchor, we sailed back to the dock with just the
inner jib, closehauled in 10-20 and made good time. It was after sunset and
the windchill was intense, so I left the main down. I do need to rig some
preventer lines though.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 7:48 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 42 Custom also sails fine with just a genny (153 on a furler).
>
>
>
> This is funny: the Admiral is not too keen on the boat heeling way over,
> and she always thought the main was the culprit.  This was a logical
> conclusion for a novice sailor because we always cruise with the genny, so
> when you add the extra sail area of the main, the boat heels over more
> going uphill.  This past summer we went out on a windy day, and I knew she
> would not be happy with the genny.  Instead, I put up only the main.  She
> is now a big fan of main-only sailing in over 10 knots or so of breeze.
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 4, 2022 at 3:00 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My boat sails fine with just genoa too.  Only two lines to deal with and
> the cockpit is quiet and less busy.  Great for lunch or snacking.
>
> It sails fine with just main, also, and tacking in tight quarters is
> easier.   Handles like a laser.
>
> With a J of 14'10" and an E of 15'1" they are almost the same on a 34R.
>
>
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 11/04/2022 10:31 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

The preventer setup describe is exactly what we used on the boat we sailed
back from Maui to Victoria this summer. The control lines for the spin pole
were also used for preventer, one on each side. The preventer lines ran
along the boom and were stored at a cleat on the boom near the gooseneck
when not in use. Simply uncleat, attach to the end of the spin control
line, and you then had preventer control in the cockpit. We didn't get much
chance to use it during the mostly upwind crossing, but when we did, it
worked well and minimized the need to go on deck.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Oct 31, 2022 at 8:29 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The first test of the 4:1 mainsheet was a resounding success, it works
> great in light/medium air. I still need to grab the 6:1, I can see this
> being beyond my strength in heavy air. This brings up a new issue, the
> preventer. Since what was my preventer is now my mainsheet, I did not have
> a preventer and really hate running wing and wing without one. I rigged up
> a temporary solution running a line from the boom to a block on the rail
> and back to the cockpit. That worked fine and was IMHO a lot safer to deal
> with than releasing a preventer by going on deck and getting if off the
> boom. I could have rigged lines to both sides and had it set for either
> tack from the cockpit.
> So has anyone rigged a preventer system like that you don't need to be up
> on deck to use?
> Has anyone just forgotten about it and used a boom brake instead? I have
> figure-8 stainless boom brake device I have not ever got around to rigging.
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>

Stus-List Re: LF 38 For Sale

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Sorry to hear about your health. From the photos, she looks very nice with
plenty of upgrades, and thanks for sharing the photos, as I have so far
only seen a LF38 in photos. I only wish we were closer!

Best wishes.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Oct 17, 2022 at 8:48 PM ssjohnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Due to my medical issues I am sad to part with Alegria...1984 Landfall 38
> (#165) that i have owned since 2006.  Always sailed in fresh water - Lake
> Michigan - fairly well maintained.  Some pics below.  Price - $42,000.
> Contact me off list if interested.  Looking for a younger sailor that will
> continue the quality tradition.
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-aGegqRxjvCR7oyXWLXV_5pUreh6nnMa
>
> Spencer Johnson
> 84 LF 38 "Alegria"  #165
> On the hard in Waukegan, IL
> :-(
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting read. Fortunately Callisto's keel and bolts seem to be in great
shape. One thing not covered in the article was lightning damage. A
friend's Hylas was just discovered to have keel damage caused by a
lightning strike, and had to have the keel dropped and re-bedded, and
presumably some bolts re-cast into it. Fortunately insurance covered it,
even though the strike occurred several years ago on the east coast.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 6:31 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Interesting indeed - especially the part about freeze/thaw  keel casting
> failures.he attributes these to bolt deterioration, but I expect that
> leaking bedding, imperfect casting, or lose bolts may also contribute.
>
> Here’s what casting failure looks like:
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/09/mid-1980s-c-keel-issues.html?m=1
>
> Dave Syer 33-2
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Glow plugs

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

As a long time VW diesel owner, I've changed my share of glow plugs on both
IDI and TDI engines. They will generally last 10 years or more if not run
too long, The older (80s vintage) 1.6 IDI diesel on Callisto has a manual
button for the glow plugs, and I will try to avoid using more than 5
seconds, which is enough down to 0C, as they glow red hot within 1 second
when working correctly. A good test of function is the current draw, each
plug should pull about 12A (in my case, yours may differ). Once you know
the current draw you can quickly check if they are all good if you have a
good ammeter or battery monitor on board (I have a Renogy which uses a
shunt).
In the case of VW glow plugs, continuous operation more than about 10-15
seconds can quickly shorten their life. I lost all of them a few years ago
when the factory timer relay stuck on, so now use a separate 80A relay and
a manual button, as changing them is a serious PITA - two are behind the
injection pump.
A quick test of a plug is to use a spare battery, or any good source of 12V
power up to 15-20A. When power is applied they should be red hot within a
second or so, if not, replace. They will usually fail open, but sometimes
will fail with a higher resistance and only get warm. Use a pair of pliers
and gloves for safety when handling hot plugs, and of course use fused
conductors for testing. I keep old plugs that have tested ok for spares,
which came in handy when I had to change them all while out at anchor.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 7:48 AM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For what it's worth -- another data point on glow plugs.  I had a 2003 VW
> Golf TDI 1.9L (Turbo Direct Injection) and drove it 200k miles.  The glow
> plugs had to be replaced at 80k and 160k.  A good reading was 1 ohm.  The
> plugs all went together both times (probably) and the car was very
> difficult to start.  But, the starting issue became obvious only when PA
> temperatures dropped, so plugs might have gone one at a time over summer.
> With 4 cylinders, all you need is one to start to fire to get the engine
> going.
>
> Jeff Laman
> 81 C
> --
> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 12, 2022 10:32 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Glow plugs
>
> I asked the list a while back about glow plugs (Universal M4-30) and
> whether they should be a periodic replacement item.  They should have been
> testable in place, but I had trouble getting reliable readings from the
> meter.  So I decided since they were not that expensive ($80 for 4) to just
> go ahead and replace them so I had a sense of the state of 30 year old glow
> plugs.  It turned out to be a pretty easy job as engine jobs go (about an
> hour).  The only hard part was finding a tool that would grab the circular
> knurled nuts on top that held the wires on (Vice grips worked).   The plugs
> themselves came out without too much trouble with a standard socket
> wrench.  The old plugs look well used, but not worn out and tested as good
> with a Volt-ohm meter (about 1 ohms).  The new ones made no difference to
> starting the engine that I could detect.  It still takes about 15-30
> seconds of glow plug (as the manual recommends) before it starts.  So from
> my experience, this is not an engine part that needs much concern or
> frequent replacement.  Also, since the plus sides are all wired together,
> my assumption is that if one failed (high resistance), the others would
> continue to work fine.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks, Dennis, that's great. If we do end up keeping her another year, I
may just get around to adding a forward track. But we're currently looking
to buy a boat for cruising in Mexico, and don't think we'll be able to keep
two boats.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Jul 14, 2022 at 2:15 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For reference, here's a pic of Touche's jib track.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsOWdQOXM1aEQzb0U/view?usp=sharing=0-_jwd_f8MH2sUnmMrG17D_g
>
> The track was located in coordination with my sailmaker when he made the
> 95% headsail.
>
> I trim the 95 between the forward lower and upper shrouds.  I lead the
> sheet through a snatch block on the jib track then aft through the genoa
> car on my long track then to the primary winch.I change at about 17 knots
> true.  Touche' likes the 95.  :)
>
> If the wind builds over 22 kts, we trim to the toe rail to open the slot
> and stand the boat up a bit.  Thankfully, we've only had to do that once or
> twice.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2022 at 3:49 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just got back from almost 6 weeks on our 35-2, but it has a custom Solent
>> rig with two furlers, 135 on outer, 95 on inner. At the halfway point, the
>> old Harken mk1 furler top swivel exploded and rained bearings on the deck,
>> fortunately on the way in, not out.
>> Anyway, that meant rigging our 95 blade jib for all purpose work, so I
>> currently have the sheets lead outside the shrouds and to the toerail with
>> snatch blocks. The stock genoa track doesn't extend far enough forward for
>> this sail, which is probably similar to a 105-110 when mounted further aft
>> on the inner furler (about 30" aft) - the clew reaches about 10" past the
>> aft lowers.
>> For extended upwind work, I have lead it inboard of the uppers and aft
>> shrouds, but this leaves only a very narrow working range for bearing off,
>> since I had to use the stanchion base or toerail. A longer genoa track
>> forward, or a barberhauler might could improve this.
>> Interestingly, I found we can point nearly as high with it rigged to the
>> toerail, and I have better control of the sail shape. Our last sail home
>> two days ago we blasted past a newer ~40' cruiser by pointing at least 5%
>> higher while maintaining 6+ kts boat speed in 15-18kts TW and current
>> against us. I don't think he was trying that hard though, whereas we wanted
>> to get through before the current made it impossible with the huge tides
>> this week. One of the issues I've found with this blade jib is that it
>> doesn't seem to create a decent slot effect with the main due to minimal
>> overlap, so I am often trimming the main independently of the jib (ie:
>> hardened up more) to get better boat speed, at least until the AW is over
>> 15, at which point the main needs to be eased a bit.
>>
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 9, 2022 at 6:03 PM Donald Kern via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Paul
>>> It kind of depends on your track set up.  My #4 (~110%) leads outside
>>> the forward lower and inside center upper and aft lower.
>>>
>>> Don Kern
>>> *Fireball*, C Mk2
>>> Bristol, RI
>>>
>>> On 7/9/2022 1:11 PM, Paul Florin via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> On a 35ft C MK II with a 110% genoa, sheets inside or outside shrouds?
>>>
>>> -- Paul Florin
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I have a 5:1 which I picked up from a parts 35 a few years ago, and it's a
great improvement. If the cam cleat is hard to release, it usually means I
should have reefed 5 knots ago...

I use a snap shackle to the traveller car for quickly swinging the boom to
the rail when at anchor.

Currently looking at a longer range cruiser, and one of the things I will
miss is easy mainsheet adjustment.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 8:13 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone changed their 35 to a multi-part tackle and cam cleat that you
> operate from the traveler back at the helm instead of the stock system that
> runs a line up to the mast and back to a cabin top winch?
> Would 4:1 be enough or would 6:1 be better?
>
> My preventer is a pretty big 4 part and cam cleat setup, it just about
> looks like it could do the job.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Just got back from almost 6 weeks on our 35-2, but it has a custom Solent
rig with two furlers, 135 on outer, 95 on inner. At the halfway point, the
old Harken mk1 furler top swivel exploded and rained bearings on the deck,
fortunately on the way in, not out.
Anyway, that meant rigging our 95 blade jib for all purpose work, so I
currently have the sheets lead outside the shrouds and to the toerail with
snatch blocks. The stock genoa track doesn't extend far enough forward for
this sail, which is probably similar to a 105-110 when mounted further aft
on the inner furler (about 30" aft) - the clew reaches about 10" past the
aft lowers.
For extended upwind work, I have lead it inboard of the uppers and aft
shrouds, but this leaves only a very narrow working range for bearing off,
since I had to use the stanchion base or toerail. A longer genoa track
forward, or a barberhauler might could improve this.
Interestingly, I found we can point nearly as high with it rigged to the
toerail, and I have better control of the sail shape. Our last sail home
two days ago we blasted past a newer ~40' cruiser by pointing at least 5%
higher while maintaining 6+ kts boat speed in 15-18kts TW and current
against us. I don't think he was trying that hard though, whereas we wanted
to get through before the current made it impossible with the huge tides
this week. One of the issues I've found with this blade jib is that it
doesn't seem to create a decent slot effect with the main due to minimal
overlap, so I am often trimming the main independently of the jib (ie:
hardened up more) to get better boat speed, at least until the AW is over
15, at which point the main needs to be eased a bit.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Jul 9, 2022 at 6:03 PM Donald Kern via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul
> It kind of depends on your track set up.  My #4 (~110%) leads outside the
> forward lower and inside center upper and aft lower.
>
> Don Kern
> *Fireball*, C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
>
> On 7/9/2022 1:11 PM, Paul Florin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> On a 35ft C MK II with a 110% genoa, sheets inside or outside shrouds?
>
> -- Paul Florin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

You should be able to hear the solenoid click when power is applied. If
not, either it has failed, is stuck, or the connections need cleaning up.
In my case, I once had it stick closed due to an accumulation of a waxy goo
which became quite viscous when cold. I assume this was due to moisture and
age, and the solenoid being located at the low point in the lines. Cleaning
all the goo out has cured it for over a year now.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 12:28 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Like many of us, I am excited to get Indigo Out We Go back into the waters
> of Lake Ontario in about a month!!! She is a 1980 C 34 that we bought
> last year. She is a great boat for us because she was stored inside in the
> off season but many of her accessories were not functioning, leading to a
> good financial deal for us.
>
> One of those accessories is the propane stove and oven. I can’t get the
> stove to light. It feels to me like there is gas in the 3 pound cylinder
> and the gas lines look intact. I have the solenoid switch turned on. Could
> it be that the solenoid has failed? Or is there some other likely trouble
> in the system?
>
> This isn’t a huge deal because I bought a transom mount propane grill
> (summer cooking is cooler outside) and I bring my white gas backpacking
> stove on our multi day adventures.
>
> Thanks in advance for the wisdom,
>
> TODD
> Sodus Bay, NY
>

Stus-List Re: Fun in the sun

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

We're so jealous! Meanwhile, I hope to get to our boat (near Victoria)
after the latest snowfall, and before tomorrow's forecasted 50kn winds.

If we don't find an offshore boat in the next few months, we will consider
finding one in S.Cal or Mexico and keeping Callisto for summer sailing in
BC. Not quite ready to downsize the house and go full time sailing yet, so
time spent between Mexico and BC seems like a good intermediate step.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 5:54 PM Doug via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Just thought I should update this list as ti my current "residence".
> Rebecca Leah and I are currently sailing in the Sea of Cortez. I lest home
> in late August and have not looked back. Not sure what summer time will
> bring. Whether it is another boat back in the PNW, or an air-conditioned
> plot of land here in México.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club
> Port Orchard, WA
> Somewhere in México.
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

We added an EmTrak B951 last spring and it has been great, more useful than
radar in most cases (although radar was great the few times we needed it -
we were even able to spot humpbacks nearby that we could hear while
ghosting along in the fog). A big advantage of AIS is being able to hail
commercial traffic by name from a safe distance if we need to. We haven't
done any night passages yet, but knowing that we are as visible as possible
was a key reason for getting the transceiver vs. a receiver. Our solar arch
came with a separate VHF antenna and wiring, so I replaced it with a
homemade AIS specific one and it will act as a spare for the masthead
antenna as well by just switching cables. Range is good, with lots of
visibility to 30+ NM in most areas around here, less in the inlets/fjords
of course.
I don't have AIS integrated with the VHF radio, but did install a new N2K
backbone with the other new gear, mainly B wind/dst/compass/gps and
plotter. Having not sailed much with accurate wind instruments, I
appreciate having them, especially when the wind comes up when going
downwind - sometimes it is easy to get complacent with a lot of sail up in
25-30kt in warm summer air, then get a surprise with a windshift or course
change!

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Dec 31, 2021 at 12:26 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dwight
>
>
>
> Short answer is NO – not always.
>
>
>
> Better answer is that I want other vessels to see me when doing coastal
> trips at night and in the fog. We already receive AIS so I see the big
> tankers that will plow us under doing 14 knots and I want them to see us
> before that happens.
>
>
>
> The rest of the gear?  I like knowing Speed over Water especially when
> racing.  I like not hitting bottom so depth can also be important.  Smart
> people know the wind speed and direction but for the rest of us having it
> displayed is nice.
>
>
>
> For the setup it turns out that Raymarine has a SeatalkNG to Nema 2000
> spur connector and you can plug in directly to SeatalkNG backbone.
>
>
>
> This does give me a reason to climb up the ladder in the winter to run my
> newly installed diesel heater and tinker with the boat though ..
>
>
>
> All the best
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 31, 2021 3:32 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Mike. Do you really need all that gear to sail your boat well or are you
> just interested in the challenge of seeing if you can make it all work, at
> least long enough for proof test. Hahaha Happy New Year
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 11:21 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dave
>
>
>
> Sounds like I need a A06045/A06075 SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 cable and plug
> right into Seatalk NG backbone.  That is pretty simple
>
>
>
> Now I just have to climb back into the cold dark boat to see what backbone
> currently looks like so I will know which of and how many of the other $49
> each Seatalk NG bits and pieces I will need to add
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 30, 2021 11:10 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Yes, you can buy an adaptor or make one with a field attachable
> connector.  Seatalk NG is or rather was Raymarine's attempt to make the
> NMEA 2000 standard effectively proprietary.   I have a Seatalk NG backbone
> and a range of NMEA2000 devices - it works seamlessly.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Likely a question for Fred Street
>
>
>
> Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine
> a65 multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network
>
>
>
> Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna
> splitter.  Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and
> Nema2000 connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.
>
>
>
> A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60
> instruments. Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs
> so do not believe this model has the Nema 0183 wiring
>
>
>
> How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so
> that I can see AIS targets?
>
>
>
> Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into
> SeatalkNG backbone?
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#
> 
>
> That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.
>
>
>
> Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and
> separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the
> Nema 2000 ports 

Stus-List Re: C 37/40R for sale - Britt Chance

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Great story! The only Chance design I've seen, that I know of, was an off
30' boat that appeared briefly at our club, don't recall the name of it,
but it had several odd things about the design. No idea where it went,
haven't seen it since.
I like the idea of twin headsails for shorthanded sailing. I assume they
were poled out, or least one was? Ours seem to do well in good wind, and
would do better with pole(s) in lighter stuff.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Dec 8, 2021 at 10:18 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I sailed a Vic-Maui and a Pan Am Clipper Cup in 1982 on a Britt Chance
> designed 54’ Boat named “Glory”. I was one of the foredeck crew and a watch
> captain.
>
> The owner’s design brief may have mentioned the desire for PNW style light
> air performance but; when that boat went faster than 14 knots it became
> unpredictable in which direction the bow would go when the surf ended.
> Ergo: “You take a chance with Chance.”
>
> The 1982 Vic-Maui included some very light air and several days of
> tropical storm reinforced trade winds in the 25 to 35 TWS range.  One dark
> and stormy night, flying the “chicken shute” my watch (3 of us) experienced
> those night time sailing conditions that are like “Mr. Toads wild ride”.
> The instrument delay made them useless so we used the compass to determine
> “home base” as a course that was usually not by the lee and the lighted
> Windex for a general idea of the apparent wind angle.
>
> My standard instructions for the helmsman in such conditions is, if a
> broach/roundup/spin out anticipated, is to rotate towards the pole. A
> controlled spin out towards the pole is often a quick recovery vs a round
> down. On the windiest night over a 4 hour watch we spun out 3 to 4 times.
>
> So, our watch ends and the next watch comes on deck. I drove an extra 10
> minutes to allow the new watch some time to acclimatize and pass on some of
> what we had learned. I handed the wheel over to the resident “rock star”
> sailmaker and moved forward to the center cockpit. My watch decided to stay
> on deck as the conditions were deteriorating and expected the call to douse
> the spinnaker soon. A short time later the “rock star” totally lost the
> plot a drove deep by the lee. The boat rounded down so suddenly the
> helmsman ended up ass over tea kettle to leeward.
>
> The mainsail, in its attempt to gyre broke the preventer which then got
> hung up on a coffee grinder handle pinning the main to windward. The mast
> was slapping the bigger wave tops. As I was closest to the fouled preventer
> I pulled out my rigging knife got real low and cut the taut line. The
> mainsail immediately swung to leeward allowing the boat to pop upright.
> With the boat upright the spinnaker pops full and the boat accelerates
> quickly. Unfortunately the helmsman did not have time to correct his helm
> spinning the boat into an immediate round up thus completing a full
> mid-ocean “banana split.  As the gyrations tossed the crew belowdecks out
> of their bunks the owner/skipper called for the spinnaker douse. We spent
> the next 36 hours under twin headsails.
>
> The 1982 Clipper Cup was also windier than typical which also didn’t favor
> this particular Britt Chance design.  On YouTube there is a film about the
> 1982 Clipper Cup. In the first minute or so “Glory” passes through the
> screen. It’s a white boat with multiple blue stripes. Up on the bow I can
> be seen doing something with the sail.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>
> On Dec 8, 2021, at 6:13 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Britt Chance was a one horse pony
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

or when, as it always does, the foo hits
> the fan. This includes making the hard decision to alter the original
> voyage plans when conditions change or somebody gets sick/injured. It is
> difficult to break a voyage and head for an alternate destination/port.
> Another critical decision skill is to recognize when it is time to bring in
> an expert AKA a qualified delivery skipper or 1st mate to back up the
> owner/skipper’s abilities.
>
>
>
> Boat:
>
> -The top down Asym sail roller furling set up  may be more suitable
> offshore with a much more experienced crew. (Think of equipment use when
> dark and the wind suddenly increases.) For many casual sailors a spinnaker
> sock like the ATN snuffer may be simpler, more reliable, and user friendly.
>
> -Reliance on a water maker with out adequate, separate backup water
> stowage.
>
> -Poor resource management: water (quantity and quality) and battery power.
>
>
>
> I did not list the refrigeration shut down as this is difficult to back up
> fully.  During a 1979 Hawaii to Seattle delivery our engine driven refer
> failed spoiling much food just a few days out of Hawaii.  We had a lot of
> our back up food in freeze dried packets.  It takes a lot of water to
> reconstitute freeze dried food. We also had a few days worth of K-rations
> (bring extra TP) but the canned foods were best.  If we had appropriate
> offshore fishing gear and knew how to use it our culinary experience would
> have been much improved.
>
> During a 1993 Hawaii to Seattle delivery the engine failed and it took us
> 3 or 4 days to effect repairs. Once again the fresh and frozen food
> spoiled. This time we had great fishing gear and passionate fishermen on
> the crew. If you can make a lure look like a flying fish to a Mahi-Mahi or
> Tuna losing your fresh food is much less inconvenient.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso (not that Calypso)
>
> 1971 C 43
>
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>
>
>
> *From: *Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Saturday, December 4, 2021 12:14 PM
> *To: *Stus-List 
> *Cc: *Shawn Wright 
> *Subject: *Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle
>
>
>
> Thanks for sharing, Randy. As we are seeking our offshore boat, there are
> lots of lessons to be learned from this story, but the opening sentences
> would have had enough red flags to send me running from this boat!
>
>
>
> "Calypso’s owner and captain is a 75-year old man who’d never been
> offshore.  He found passage crew on findacrew.net
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Ffindacrew.net%2F=04%7C01%7C%7C6f751bbe816a43371dbd08d9b762a5b3%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637742456580513964%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000=VLsEWsFHope%2BcjXzCQq%2FmEf7xSRhew2sr8GR82fRtV4%3D=0>,
> and they too had never been offshore (and in two cases had little sailing
> experience)."
>
>
>
> No offshore experience in a boat not really designed for offshore? What
> were they thinking? I'm glad there were no serious injuries and hope those
> involved will learn from the experience, as in my limited experience, it
> reads like a lesson in what not to do!
>
>
>
> --
>
> Shawn Wright
>
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FSVCallisto=04%7C01%7C%7C6f751bbe816a43371dbd08d9b762a5b3%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637742456580513964%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000=XEeoC0weiqsZHD7seNIR2wGyhkwIKRlGLd28rOViscA%3D=0>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing, Randy. As we are seeking our offshore boat, there are
lots of lessons to be learned from this story, but the opening sentences
would have had enough red flags to send me running from this boat!

"Calypso’s owner and captain is a 75-year old man who’d never been
offshore.  He found passage crew on findacrew.net, and they too had never
been offshore (and in two cases had little sailing experience)."

No offshore experience in a boat not really designed for offshore? What
were they thinking? I'm glad there were no serious injuries and hope those
involved will learn from the experience, as in my limited experience, it
reads like a lesson in what not to do!

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Dec 3, 2021 at 2:30 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Here’s an overdue report on this situation.  Basically a tale of warning
> about what can go wrong offshore, with potentially very serious
> consequences.
>
> By coincidence a few weeks ago I came into contact on Facebook with one of
> Calypso’s crew, a retired pediatrician.  We subsequently spoke on the
> phone, and she documented her experience on her Facebook timeline, which
> I’ll quote below.
>
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mounting chart plotter at helm

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I considered putting my Vulcan 9 at the helm, but decided to mount it under
the hard dodger instead. Better visibility from anywhere in the cockpit,
and I can easily move it to the nav desk using the same cables if I want (I
have a cable conduit through the deck under the dodger). Not ideal for
singlehanding, but otherwise, it's been good.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Dec 2, 2021 at 5:21 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I was going to put another instrument display at the helm of my 35 mk I,
> but realized a chartplotter was only a couple hundred more so went that
> route.
>
> Any suggestions on how to mount it to my Edson pedestal so I can rotate it
> sideways, for easy viewing from the coaming? I rarely steer from behind the
> wheel so I want to see it from the sides.  The pedestal is about the same
> height as the wheel (not my boat, but similar setup. I don't have the top
> tray): https://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/17/14/05/22/2012-110.jpg)
>
> The chartplotter is the B Vulcan 9.
>
> regards,
> Bob Mann
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Can you share any photos of the bolts in question? Are these above deck, or
below? I'm not aware of any aluminum bolts in my pedestal, but they may
have been replaced with stainless steel. There is one SS round head machine
screw that is loose and has no material left to grab (threads stripped out)
on one of the aluminum pieces which fit over the SS tubing at the deck
level. As the pedestal is solid, I've ignored it for now. Everything below
deck looks good also, but it's been a year since I checked so it's on the
list.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Nov 19, 2021 at 1:19 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> I was aware that my bolts in my steering assembly below the pedestal were
> failing when I noticed a gap on the bow side of the sheave assembly this
> summer. After trying to tighten one of the aluminum bolts it crumbled. Had
> two remaining good ones in the stern and limped the way through the
> remainder of the season. Today loosened the steering cables to start to
> take apart the assembly with the intent of fixing in place with new bolts.
> Having had a similar but more catastrophic failure on our past 1989 37/40
> XL I can see that the assembly itself is in good shape. My question is the
> use of the aluminum bolts. Since that is what failed should I switch to
> stainless? May be a good question for Rob Ball but wanted to see what
> others have used. Thanks!
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Callisto (35-2) came with an identical setup to what Rick describes below
(including poles in storage...), and the line-adjustable spin-pole car is
very beefy (Merriman most likely). I removed the car and lines to simplify
things as there is no way two of us are handling the heavy spin pole when
cruising. When removing the car, I noticed that the 1.25" track was
slightly deformed, and I had to file the track slightly to remove it,
suggesting some pretty large lateral forces were exerted at some point,
likely when racing.

The eye on your gooseneck pin might be useful for attaching a block to lead
a control line or cunningham, but I wouldn't use it for anything rigid like
a pole, as others have stated.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Nov 18, 2021 at 8:59 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Imzadi (an old IOR boat) came with 2 spin halyards, a track and line
> adjustable ring car on the front of the mast, and a ring on either side of
> the mast for use with a reaching strut. Her sail inventory has a 135 genoa
> (set up with a foam luff, for reefing down to about 90% on the furler) and
> an asymmetrical chute tacked to the anchor roller array about 2 feet in
> front of the headstay.
>
>
>
> I’ve put the reaching strut and spin pole into storage (available to any
> lister who needs either one in exchange for a donation to Stu and cost of
> shipping). I carry two whisker poles on Imzadi for the headsails.
>
>
>
> As others have said, there are pretty high forces on the attachment points
> when using a pole – particularly with the spin when running. So a strong
> attachment point on the mast is needed, and use of the ring at the
> gooseneck is probably contraindicated.
>
>
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wifi antenna at top of mast

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I'm using a Ubiquiti Bullet with 9db antenna as a booster, connected to a
basic home router, total cost about $200CAD, uses very little power on a
small inverter. The Bullet requires you to choose a wireless network using
their web interface, and a bit of other setup to work correctly. For now I
just poke the antenna under our dodger and it works ok, but plan to put it
in a PVC sealed pipe and mount on the solar arch eventually. Most of our
local cruising is in remote areas, so it hasn't seen much use so far. I
also have our radar (B Halo) connected to the router, which could allow
me to view the radar using OpenCPN, although I haven't tried it yet.



--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Nov 10, 2021 at 3:18 AM DJ via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi all,
> I think someone mentioned having an antenna at the top of the mast that
> helps pull in distant wifi signals.  Can anyone point me in the direction
> of a product that would help with picking up wifi while on the hook?
>
> Is it a 2 part system?  One to receive the signal at the top of mast
> connecting to another,  in the boat, that transmits?
>
> Danny
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: What's up with this boat?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks, there is some interesting info in there. Would love to hear Rob
Ball's take on this, I can't recall if he mentioned the 39 on the recent
call with Bob Perry. Those numbers look a bit more realistic for B:D ratio.
This is also the first mentioned I've seen of a glassed over hull-deck
joint on a C, which makes me wonder if any other Bruckmann built boats
had this done. The fully tabbed bulkheads make me envious, as I'm not keen
on the squeaks in our 35-2.

If this boat were close by, I'd be interested. There is a nice 41 near me
for $98k CAD.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Nov 7, 2021 at 11:36 AM JohnKelly Cuthbertson <
j...@motiondesignslimited.com> wrote:

> This ad Had dome interesting info on it.
>
> https://sailingtexas.com/201801/scc39101.html
>
> JKC
>
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
>
> On Nov 7, 2021, at 2:25 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> What's the story on the 39, and the Northeast name? Only 7 built, and very
> high D/B ratio, if sailboatdata is correct.
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: What's up with this boat?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

What's the story on the 39, and the Northeast name? Only 7 built, and very
high D/B ratio, if sailboatdata is correct.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Nov 7, 2021 at 8:36 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1985-c-c-39-northeast-7277234/
>
> The price seems amazingly (or maybe depressingly) low.
>
> Is the old Volvo beat or scaring people? Nearly 8 foot draft too much? If
> this boat wouldn’t be aground a half-mile from my slip I would be tempted
> myself.
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: CHAINPLATE/KNEE REPAIR 1981 C 36-1 KCB

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Ericson and Camper Nicholson also used glassed-in stainless steel
chainplates that can be a major pain to replace. My 35-2 appears to be
leak-free at the chainplates, but this thread has me thinking I need to
check them again. The only leak we've had lately is the centre stand-up
block behind the mast - since leading my new vang through it, it began
leaking this summer, but butyl has cured it nicely. I guess the vang line
placed more stress on the block than the mainsheet that was previously lead
through it.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 8:49 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chainplate leaks, rot, and corrosion are pretty endemic to almost all
> boats, not just 36s and certainly not just C
>
> Pacific Seacraft uses external bronze chainplates that will never have
> those issues, but that only works on very narrow boats. Island Packet is
> (in)famous for glassing over stainless to create a nice bit of crevice
> corrosion for just one example of how not to do it.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 27, 2021 11:24 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeffrey A. Laman 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: CHAINPLATE/KNEE REPAIR 1981 C 36-1
> KCB
>
>
>
> I don't know that this chainplate knee deterioration is unique to the
> C and hope that all owners take a thorough and careful look at their
> boat.
>
>
>
> Jeff Laman
>
> 1981 C "Harmony"
>
> Ludington, MI
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Zinc Paint

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I used Pettit zinc spray and found it did little to stop barnacle growth
after a year. Last haul out I reapplied the zinc spray after sanding down
to bronze (Campbell Sailor fixed 3 blade), and then brushed  two coats of
Pettit Horizons ablative paint, but I won't know if this is better until
next year. The Horizons was quite effective against hard growth on the hull
after 2 years in BC waters, with only a line of green slime at the
waterline.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 8:14 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have tried them all and been unimpressed with the results on my
> Maxprop.  I tried the Pettit Zinc barrier coat spray many years ago and did
> not find it very effective.  Tried lanolin and the same.  Tried bottom
> paint with primer and it did not adhere.  Did Propspeed one year and it was
> good, but only lasted one year.  PITA to redo every year.  Same with
> Propglide.  Worked pretty well but had to redo it every year.  This year, I
> put Pettit’s new Running Gear Guardian on two blades of my prop and Velux
> Plus on the other.  I was especially careful last winter as I had the prop
> at home and it had been refurbished by PYI so no grease and it was very
> clean to begin with and I was able to further clean it really well with
> recommended solvents.  Pettit’s product was very easy to apply and looked
> good.  So I had high hopes.   I had to do a short haul a couple of weeks
> after launch and both had fallen off the prop in large chunks. I will see
> end of season results when I haul next week.  My conclusion: there is no
> great solution except underwater cleaning.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Oct 26, 2021, at 10:17 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Dwight,
> Petit's Barnacle Barrier paint for prop and shaft.  I use it, but still
> got barnacles in the salt water of New Jersey.  I get less barnacles in
> Chesapeake Bay, but it's not perfect.  It's standard procedure at my
> boatyard to spray props and shafts with this material.
>
>
> https://ww2.iboats.com/Zinc-Prop-Coat-Barnacle-Barrier-1792-16-oz-Pettit-Paint/dm/view_id.83534?cm_mmc=Google_Main-_-Shopping+-+Engine+Parts+-+Low+Bids-_-brand+-+pettit+paint-_-PLAs=CjwKCAjwzt6LBhBeEiwAbPGOgbLg5FzxPfl7NJCt7bTVjNqS8lnKQzlGXK1AHX4DEqHmvIxSR8aeFxoCMS0QAvD_BwE
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis, Md
>
> On 10/26/2021 6:06 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Where do you get “zinc paint”?
>
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and
> shaft. I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop
> and shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m
> sold.
>
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil, C 37/40+
> Vancouver BC
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I know this has veered a bit off the original thread asking about fitment
issues, so I figured I might as well chime in now that we're sufficiently
off course... ;)

My 35-2 came with an old ComNav autopilot which drives a RayMarine wheel
pilot drive, not sure which vintage. The ComNav seems pretty robust (they
make mainly commercial units), but is now ~20 years old. It has a rudder
feedback arm mounted off the quadrant, and is capable of driving a
hydraulic drive up to 20A. Lately the unit will give an error indicating a
rudder feedback error, but I think it may just be complaining about the
belt slippage which occurs whenever I am motoring over 5.5kts or there is
any sea state beyond a light chop, so we rarely use it except for
dropping the main on occasion now. The main weakness seems to be the wheel
drive, as the housing has stress cracks at the sections where the two
halves are joined, and when it skips a tooth, I can see the housing split
apart slightly. Maybe a new housing would fix this, but the noise it makes
while under sail is too annoying for me to use it much anyway.

Our next boat will definitely have a direct drive AP, as per Don's comment
below. I've sailed a newer Dufour with a below deck chain drive AP that
seems to work well and is quiet, so it doesn't necessarily need to be
hydraulic.



--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:50 AM Don Marlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My experience is with a C 40. When we first got my boat it had a
> functioning ST4000+ wheel pilot. It was fine motoring and sailing in light
> winds.
> Based on the literature, our boat is technically too heavy for the ST4000+.
>
> My main complaints for the ST4000+ Wheel Pilot:
> 1) it was noisy...and it is not a pleasant noise as load increases. Think
> nails on a chalkboard
> 2) when it got overpowered the AP gave up and simply stopped controlling
> 3) it was erratic but this might be due to compass placement or the fact
> it always seemed behind the boat.
>
...

> *If it was me, anything 35' or larger would automatically be a below deck
> system.*
>
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks, Don, this seems to confirm my findings on our 35-2 - although we
don't race, we often are trying to make some miles on long downwind runs.
While I haven't done too much testing since getting real instruments, it
seems that I can sail deeper downwind as the wind builds and still get a
good VMG. Of course, I am sailing with only a genoa and no pole, so keeping
the sail full is often the limiting factor for downwind angle, but at
20kt + I can often go very deep if the seas are fairly calm. If I expect
20kt+, I will also not bother with the main, as I can get near hull speed
with just the genoa, and we certainly won't be surfing much with a tonne or
two of cruising gear on board...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Oct 12, 2021 at 8:15 AM Don Kern via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Jeff,
>
> Let me assume that your boat is similar in performance to my 35 Mk2 and
> the wind / currents are similar to what we have in New England.  That said
> I hardly ever worry about sailing to the laylines.  First, hardly ever is
> the leeward mark set dead downwind and there should be a preferred side of
> the course to sail which may be modified due to tidal currents.   You
> figure that out before you start and set the pole and guy/sheet
> appropriately.  Then you watch to see what lead class of boats due upon
> rounding windward mark to confirm the downwide course settings, if you are
> not in he fist class to start.  When you round that mark your fist
> imperative is to clear your wind either reaching , bearing off or jibing.
> Next, if you are in the lead, is cover your most threatening competitors,
> if not in the lead keeping your wind clear and if wind is light to moderate
> sail to the favorable current (max or min depending on current direction).
> Because of my boat's older design I sail deeper downwind for max VMG then
> the newer boats which sail closer to a reach (wider down wind angles).
> Strategy and tactics usually will keep me away from the layline which limit
> my options.  If I am the lead boat I try set up so rounding is just get the
> chute down and harden up without sailing into the lee of the competitors.
> Normally because I have sailed deeper and have avoided the laylines, the
> newer competitors are approaching from wider outside angle and my tactic is
> to protect from being overlapped to the inside as I get to the 3 boat
> circle.
>
> From the above you can see I hardly ever sail off into the wild blue
> yonders of the laylines, Strategy and then tactics predominate my down wind
> sailing.
>
> Don Ken
> Fireball, C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
>
>
>
> On 10/12/2021 8:33 AM, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I'm really not following your math here.
> Perhaps some clarification:
> TWA = True Wind Angle (I think you refer to that as TWD True Wind
> Direction below) ie 270?
> Course  = 230 deg
> Tacking Angle = 80 deg
> New Course = 310 deg
> Course to Leeward Mark = ?
>
> This statement is confusing to me:
> "So, when the windward mark is at a bearing of 80* I'm on the leeward
> layline"
> In this example we are going to the Leeward Mark (downwind mark).  I
> believe you are heading to the port layline,
> The windward mark would be the one you previously rounded.
>
> With all of the above...It seems like an aweful lot of math to do in the
> heat of the battle.  Since you likely know the
> course to the mark, and you've already determined your gybing range (80
> deg).  Isn't it easier to add or subtract 80 to
> your course to see if it matches the bearing to the mark?  This  can be
> achieved from your chart plotter BTW (Bearing to
> waypoint) or via handheld compass if you can see the mark.  Maybe that's
> what the math below does, if I plugged in
> the right numbers, but the closest I could get was 180 - course (230) =
> 310 but if I multiply that by 2 I get a course of
> 260 which wouldn't be your layline, as you need a course of 310.  Also, if
> I use any of those course numbers, they will
> remain constant, whereas the bearing to the mark will constantly change as
> you get further from the rhumbline (dead down wind).
>
> Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C - 549
>Armdale Yacht Club
>
> On 2021-10-11 10:07 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
>
> My geometry for calculating leeward layline:
> If my ideal heading for the current conditions is 230* and TWD is 270*,
> that means my stern has to swing 40* to become dead downwind, and another
> 40* to get to the reciprocal course after the jibe.  In a perfect scenario,
> this means an 80* swing.  So, when the windward mark is at a bearing of 80*
> I'm on the leeward layline.  Bearing to the mark can thus be calculated as
> 2 x (180-TWA).
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/08/2021 11:15 AM Bob Mann 
>  wrote:
>
>
> I still need to review the geometry, but I believe that when the bearing
> to the mark is equal to 180-TWA, one has reached the downwind layline.  I
> also found that when the 

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I don't race (much anyway), so I just gybe when something gets in the way
(like a tug towing a barge usually), or it looks like I'll need to in order
to make the next destination.

I think what they are saying is you maximize your VMG under chute for the
conditions, and once you know the TWA for those conditions, you can then
calculate (or the plotter will show you) the reciprocal layline after a
gybe.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 9:25 AM Bob Mann  wrote:

> I don't understand how either answer is telling me it's time to gybe.
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/06/2021 11:37 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I don't race, but do use VMG when trying to get our best time to
> destination, especially on longer days. This works well enough in many long
> channels and inlets with wind aligned with our course, but sometimes it's
> not aligned. In these instances I'll have to try this trick for fooling the
> VMG by giving it a waypoint at the far end of whatever channel we're
> navigating. Of course, I'll have to read the B manual, as their UI is not
> that intuitive, or things don't always work as you expect.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 8:30 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> First, let's define some terms.
>
> VMG (wind based) - the component of your velocity DIRECTLY upwind or
> downwind.
>
> WCV - waypoint closure velocity.  The component of your velocity headed
> directly at your mark (assuming it's set in your GPS).  This is often shown
> on most GPS systems as VMG.
>
> Now, if you don't have an instrument system that calculates VMG, don't use
> GPS VMG (WCV).  The problem is that, as you approach the layline, WCV will
> tend to zero.  If you overstand and cross the layline, WCV will become
> negative.  While this is good information for when to tack or gybe, it's
> usually too late.
>
> Here's how to fake your GPS into giving you VMG (wind based).  Set a
> waypoint well past the windward mark.  Let's assume the race committee sets
> a good W/L course with the windward mark directly upwind of the start.
> Let's say the wind is from 000 and the windward mark is set at 000 for a 2
> mile leg.  Enter a waypoint in your GPS at 000 20 miles out.  By setting
> the waypoint so far out, WCV will approximate VMG.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 10:03 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did it last weekend in a race and
> I believe I overstood the mark as we were sailing 110 AW before the gybe
> and 85 AW heading directly to the mark.
>
> How does one determine when to gybe?
>
> Bob
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I don't race, but do use VMG when trying to get our best time to
destination, especially on longer days. This works well enough in many long
channels and inlets with wind aligned with our course, but sometimes it's
not aligned. In these instances I'll have to try this trick for fooling the
VMG by giving it a waypoint at the far end of whatever channel we're
navigating. Of course, I'll have to read the B manual, as their UI is not
that intuitive, or things don't always work as you expect.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 8:30 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bob,
>
> First, let's define some terms.
>
> VMG (wind based) - the component of your velocity DIRECTLY upwind or
> downwind.
>
> WCV - waypoint closure velocity.  The component of your velocity headed
> directly at your mark (assuming it's set in your GPS).  This is often shown
> on most GPS systems as VMG.
>
> Now, if you don't have an instrument system that calculates VMG, don't use
> GPS VMG (WCV).  The problem is that, as you approach the layline, WCV will
> tend to zero.  If you overstand and cross the layline, WCV will become
> negative.  While this is good information for when to tack or gybe, it's
> usually too late.
>
> Here's how to fake your GPS into giving you VMG (wind based).  Set a
> waypoint well past the windward mark.  Let's assume the race committee sets
> a good W/L course with the windward mark directly upwind of the start.
> Let's say the wind is from 000 and the windward mark is set at 000 for a 2
> mile leg.  Enter a waypoint in your GPS at 000 20 miles out.  By setting
> the waypoint so far out, WCV will approximate VMG.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 10:03 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did it last weekend in a race
>> and I believe I overstood the mark as we were sailing 110 AW before the
>> gybe and 85 AW heading directly to the mark.
>>
>> How does one determine when to gybe?
>>
>> Bob
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Perfect boat

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I admit that I had to Google it, after which I was amazed at: a) how many
boats have this name, and b) how badly my memory is slipping, as I used to
watch the show a lot...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Sep 30, 2021 at 12:15 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sheesh — I can’t believe we have some sci-fi loving geeks on the list.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B (for sale - NCC-1701-C is under contract)
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
>
> On Sep 30, 2021, at 9:07 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> YES!!
>
> Neil Andersen
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Andy Frame via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 30, 202
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andy Frame
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Perfect boat
>
> So, a TARDIS.
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Perfect boat

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Great read! Interesting how many of the boxes our 35 also ticks on your
"get real" list, which is very similar to a list I would write. The 3
burner stove/oven, for example, is a must - we often use all 3 burners, and
the oven to make bread and pizza, but it's amazing how many newer, larger
boats only have 2 burners.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Sep 30, 2021 at 5:05 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This was written a couple of years before I found my 40. Obviously when I
> wrote it I had the 40 in mind mind!
>
> https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/cruising-criteria-how-to-pick-the-best-cruiser
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Sep 30, 2021, at 07:45, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> From a 1971 article in "Die Jacht" - Germany
>
> Yacht: Will there be the ideal boat one day?
>
> George Cuthbertson : Yes. If we succeed to answer the categorical desire
> of our customers to construct a boat which is larger inside than outside
> and , of course , faster than anybody else.
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I like the idea of an integrated compass and wind sensor, as I am currently
dealing with possible compass calibration issues; either that or my boat
points 7-10deg higher on the port tack, which doesn't seem likely. As a
result, I don't pay much attention to the TWA/AWA numbers and go by
telltales and windex. I've done the compass calibration procedure, but it
still always shows the boat crabbing slightly, so the heading sensor and/or
wind sensor must be slightly off.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 3:24 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Very interested in this one.  Intriguing sensor.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 21, 2021, at 3:57 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the Airmar WS-150WX?
>
> This is an ultra-sonic transducer that seems to measure just about
> everything:  true/apparent wind, pressure, temp, gps, compas, pitch & roll,
> NMEA 0183/2000.
>
> I currently have a regular cable-run Raymarine wind system.   It always
> works.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 1:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The
>> main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the
>> EV-100 autopilot.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC,
>> though (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
>>
>>
>>
>> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod
>> on the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the
>> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
>>
>>
>>
>> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless
>> unit.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a few questions:
>>
>>
>>
>> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)?
>> My first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as
>> opposed to an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to
>> connect. But this is mainly to control the costs.
>>
>>
>>
>> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed
>> the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed
>> wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the
>> wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not
>> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine
>> with that.
>>
>>
>>
>> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
>>
>>
>>
>> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Marek
>>
>>
>>
>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>>
>> Ottawa, ON
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Since the price is similar, I'd go for the Victron, for their many choices
of integration with other products in their line. So far I only have a
100/20 SmartSolar, but it has worked well for us.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 11:59 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If I pull the trigger on this, it is going to be alternator > start
> battery > DC-DC charger > lithium battery.
>
> So what say you lithium experts:
>
> This one
>
> Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC
> Charger, Non-Isolated (Bluetooth) : Electronics
> 
>
>
>
> Or
>
>
>
> Amazon.com: ATEM POWER 12V 40A DC to DC Battery Charger with MPPT Solar
> Panel Controller for Lead Acid, AGM, Gel, Calcium, LiON Batteries, Multiple
> Protection Design On-Board Charger : Patio, Lawn & Garden
> 
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Now that we're back home to local waters of BC's Gulf Islands where good
anchorages are every few miles, and not trying to get anywhere, I am
enjoying just sailing where the wind and current take us. I'm finding
surprising speed on reaches... Yesterday we almost caught up to a Beneteau
that was motoring across the channel in 6-10 of breeze, with just our genoa
on a beam reach.

On Fri, Sep 10, 2021, 07:00 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> With regard to the reaching capabilities of the 35-1 and 35-2, when the RC
> set a teaching course, some of my competition said to me before the race
> “they might as well give Touche’ the trophy now”.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Moving on up!

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

I'm interested in hearing more... where is she located?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Sep 5, 2021 at 11:12 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I got a case of 5 foot itis. We bought a Hylas 49 and am selling Atlantis,
> our Hylas 44.
> Randy Paul and Chuck have been offshore on her and can attest to her
> ability.
>
> If interested please let me know.
>
> Joel
> --
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Main Halyard Dilemma

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

This one has my vote, as it happened several times when I was pulling my
halyards back in with the mast horizontal - the thin lines would jump the
sheave and get jammed. I suggest going aloft on a jib halyard to inspect.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 3:18 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What Jim said. It probably popped up over the sheave, & the skinny
> messenger is jammed. Take a picture with somebody's telephoto lens, or go
> up on the jib halyard.
>
> Bill
>
> On Fri, Jun 11, 2021, 5:53 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It's possible it may have jumped a sheave at the masthead. Can you see
>> what the deal is up there with binoculars?
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 11 Jun 2021 at 13:17, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello:
>>>
>>> I have a 1985 CNC 33-2.   I have been using the same main halyard for
>>> the last three years.  Every winter I connect a line to it and pull it up
>>> and store the main halyard in the mast over the winter.  I went to bring it
>>> down it does not want to come down.  I am able to pull it down 6" and pull
>>> it back up 6".  so it does move.  all the other halyards i have loosened to
>>> make sure it was not hanging up on them.   I am still unable to pull the
>>> main halyard down.  Has anyone ever run into this and does anyone have a
>>> suggestion or solution in mind?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ray Macklin
>>> LakeHouse, Milwaukee
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

On our 35-2, the area around the mast collar had wet core, and was repaired
(drilled & filled with epoxy) by the previous owner 20 years ago. This area
is now very solid, basically all epoxy. The mast collar has 4 bolts through
the deck, but also a SS strap on each side, and these are connected below
decks with a bolt though the mast, so most of the upward force on the
collar is transferred to the mast, not the deck. Just had the mast out for
the first time in 20 years when the work was done, and it still seems very
solid.

Possibly adding the straps between the mast and collar (if they are absent)
might help with your deck compression issue.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 10:06 AM Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a C MK1, 1980 version, with the same problem. Starboard is
> worse than port but both stick up. When I bought the boat it had been
> sitting in the water at a Florida marina, untended for several years. There
> were 2 things I noticed that I think might be related. One is that the rig,
> though pinned, was quite loose at the time of purchase and one of the first
> things I did was take the slack out, not super tight, but snug. Two, there
> appears to be a lot of pressure exerted on the deck by the mast collar
> through the mast tangs and it looks like it is pulled down a quarter of an
> inch or more by looking at the headliner. My first suspicion was that there
> is rotten wood under the mast step but I can see no evidence of it and have
> not had the opportunity to unstep the mast yet. Perhaps the hull
> permanently deforms over time? I have thought of putting a shim in the step
> to bring the collar back up a bit.
>
> Steve Thomas
>
> Waiting out the pandemic in Ontario.
> -- Original Message --
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: rodf...@gmail.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 9, 2021 7:24 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Deck hold -down?
>
>
>
>
>
> I have a C 36-1. There are stainless strap assemblies bolted through the
> main bulkhead port and starboard. These are welded to stainless pads bolted
> through the deck. I have removed the mounting bolts and the holes in the
> bulkhead are not elongated yet there is a gap of about 5/16" under the
> plate on the deck above. What is this for? I am guessing a deck hold--down,
> yet the deck appears to be firmly in contact with the bulkhead below. Has
> anyone else seen this? What have you done about it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rod Fisk
> C 36 Corsair
> Oshkosh, WI
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

That explains why I can't find any holes below. Thanks, I will stop looking
for them, although it does make me wonder what the holes on deck were for.
Possibly mounts for the spin pole, or furling line fairleads, which used to
run along the base of the cabin top I think.
--

On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 8:34 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There would not be as these deck straps were installed in the 1980s boats,
> e.g. mine is 1981.
>
>
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting, Don. Mine has some signs of patched holes on the deck, but I
haven't been able to see anything below on the bulkheads. Possibly the deck
holes are from something else.

So the holding tank was originally in that outboard area in the head? That
explains the large hose hole at the bottom. My holding tank is now under
the vberth, port side. It's a 16USG Kracor that fits ok, with a bit of
crude surgery done to the plywood by a previous owner.

On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 7:51 AM Donald Kern  wrote:

> Like Shawn's boat mine is also C 35 Mk2 (1974), but there is no
> indications of deck straps ever being installed.  Two years ago I removed
> the failed holding tank from its outboard location behind the outboard
> mahogany paneling. This required removing most of the head cabinetry, all
> of which was unattached to the overhead and only floating in the overhead's
> channels.  The only item that appears to secure the deck away from the the
> toe-rail are the hang tangs that are thru bolted to the mast.  The mast was
> removed since the boat winters in my side yard.  Also re-tabbed all the
> forward v-berth structures, since three quarters of the screws had worked
> loose due to hull flexing.  Yes the boat creaks when sailing, but after 40
> years of sailing her you ignore that noise (also failing hearing??).
>
> Don Kern
> *Fireball, *C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
>
> On 6/9/2021 10:15 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>
> My 35 mk2 apparently had these, but they have been removed. I have not
> seen a close up of any boats that still had them, so would be interested in
> some photos. I don't see any signs that anything was done to replace them
> with any kind if adhesive; the holes are just filled on the deck. The
> bulkheads do creak a bit as they move in the channels in the fiberglass
> liner, while under sail in a sea, or as they deck expands and contracts in
> the morning and evening, but I don't know if the straps would have made a
> difference for this. The space you describe under the deck pad may indicate
> a problem, although I can't imagine why this would happen, unless the deck
> is cored at that point and has collapsed, but 5/16" is quite a lot.
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 4:25 AM Rod Fisk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a C 36-1. There are stainless strap assemblies bolted through
>> the main bulkhead  port and starboard. These are welded to stainless pads
>> bolted through the deck. I have removed the mounting bolts and the holes in
>> the bulkhead are not elongated yet there is a gap of about 5/16" under the
>> plate on the deck above. What is this for? I am guessing a deck hold--down,
>> yet the deck appears to be firmly in contact with the bulkhead below. Has
>> anyone else seen this? What have you done about it?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Rod Fisk
>> C 36 Corsair
>> Oshkosh, WI
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

My 35 mk2 apparently had these, but they have been removed. I have not seen
a close up of any boats that still had them, so would be interested in some
photos. I don't see any signs that anything was done to replace them with
any kind if adhesive; the holes are just filled on the deck. The bulkheads
do creak a bit as they move in the channels in the fiberglass liner, while
under sail in a sea, or as they deck expands and contracts in the morning
and evening, but I don't know if the straps would have made a difference
for this. The space you describe under the deck pad may indicate a problem,
although I can't imagine why this would happen, unless the deck is cored at
that point and has collapsed, but 5/16" is quite a lot.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 4:25 AM Rod Fisk via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
>
> I have a C 36-1. There are stainless strap assemblies bolted through the
> main bulkhead  port and starboard. These are welded to stainless pads
> bolted through the deck. I have removed the mounting bolts and the holes in
> the bulkhead are not elongated yet there is a gap of about 5/16" under the
> plate on the deck above. What is this for? I am guessing a deck hold--down,
> yet the deck appears to be firmly in contact with the bulkhead below. Has
> anyone else seen this? What have you done about it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rod Fisk
> C 36 Corsair
> Oshkosh, WI
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Forward "Bulkhead"

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Lots of good info on this thread. I'm not too familiar with the 33-2, but
will share a bit of what was done (by the PO) on my 35-2 which might be
relevant if the water from the anchor locker is a problem (it appears to be
from higher up though). On the 35-2, the original anchor locker appears to
have had a "floor" above the hull. This was cut out to allow the chain to
fall all the way down. The new lower locker was then glassed all the way
around, and a drain pipe glassed in, with a hose running through the
vberth lockers and exiting into the bilge just aft of the mast. This seems
to have worked well at keeping the water where it should be, as I've never
had a drop of moisture under the vberth (and the Lofrans Progress 1
windlass loves to rinse the chain in heavy rain). The added benefit is that
my 135' of chain is a bit lower in the boat, and there is more freefall if
I want to add more chain (previously there was 200'). The original large
access hole was filled in and a ~12x12" door installed for checking on the
chain & rode.

Good luck with your fix.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 27, 2021 at 11:25 AM Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I had a forward bulkhead problem too on my 33ii. But it was at the base
> of the bulkhead on the port side. The cause of the rot was that there was
> no limber hole in the bulkhead so that any water that seeped out of the
> shower sump would just sit against the bulkhead.
>
> I ended up cutting and grinding out the rot and a previous attempt at a
> repair. Then I  tabbed and glassed in a new piece that was about 1' x 1'.
> Dave Syer coached me through the job.
>
> Would recommend that rather than attempting a full bulkhead replacement.
>
> Mike
> Atacama
>
> On Thu., May 27, 2021, 10:44 a.m. Bill Coleman via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> First off, as Dwight mentioned, you need to find out why it is rotting.
>> No sense in doing anything until you resolve that problem. Then, some
>> pictures from the other side would be helpful to you. Also, take an ice
>> pick and find out how rotten the wood is. If this is one of those deals,
>> where they put it in as the boat was being built, it may be difficult to
>> fit a new piece in there once you remove what is there. It might not be a
>> bad idea to just leave it, and sand out all of the rotten stuff, if it is
>> rotten, and just glass the hell out of it to where it is already tabbed.
>> You're going to have to do that anyway, so if you just did that, you could
>> just paint a border around the edge where the glass is and just have white
>> there. Save a little bit of the mahogany look for the middle if you want
>> to. Or paint the whole thing white.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Andrew Walther via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 26, 2021 11:34 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Andrew Walther
>> *Subject:* Stus-List C Forward "Bulkhead"
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi there,
>>
>>
>>
>> Forward most bulkhead is rotting and I can’t figure out how to remove it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Here’s a video…
>>
>>
>>
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/e77DRbCFEQnFiBJ99
>>
>>
>>
>> Any help / suggestions would be most appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>>
>> Andy
>>
>> C (Tryfan)
>>
>> Comox, BC
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 4 pointed star vector file?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Cool! Now the question is: do I add stars to my 35 so people recognize it
as a C, or do I leave it for the more learned to figure out? ;)

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 12:30 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Adobe Illustrator File:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/nr4el3tjrp9bzl1/cc-stars.ai?dl=0
> Scalable Vector Graphic (svg):
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/720x97vm25m7ehi/cc-stars.svg?dl=0
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 24, 2021, at 9:57 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I post links to the C list so that everyone can use it.
>
> Even Risch.
>
> It’ll be later today, though. Work stuff first :-(
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 24, 2021, at 9:54 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
> Hi Edd,
>
> I'd like to have a copy of that too if possible?
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 09:45, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>>
>> I have Adobe Illustrator and can make that for you later today.
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ———-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> ———-
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ———-
>> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>>
>> On May 23, 2021, at 8:29 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> ‘Evening all.
>>
>> Does anyone happen to have a vector file of the old logo’s 4 pointed
>> star?   Getting new graphics and I thin this might be a cool addition.
>>
>> Many thanks.
>>
>> Dave 33-2 Windstar.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>  Thanks - Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: fun with moisture meter and how/if to fix wet spot

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Wow. Wiring between the deck layers? So far, I've only discovered wires
between the deck and liner, which is bad enough when it comes time to
replace them in some areas where they've been bonded in, and no easy
alternate route exists.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 3:30 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
>
>
>
> Have you sounded the deck with a tapping hammer?  If the balsa core has
> separated from the laminate it will sound dull.
>
>
>
> The balsa core supplier Baltek has much good info on their web site
> regarding the effect of wet balsa.  IIRC the balsa can be quite wet and
> still retain significant strength.  Much of Calypso’s wet balsa had been
> left to its own devices for so long it had created an acetic swampy soup of
> rotted balsa and acid attacked polyester.  The liquid was so acetic that it
> instantly corroded tools used to removed the damaged laminate.
>
>
>
> When I was repairing the aprox 20 sq ft of Calypso’s cored deck that had
> failed I noticed water ran significant distances along channels between the
> balsa sections and where Bruckmann’s had run 12v wires through balsa
> channels within the deck laminate.  Also, the “stick built” interior
> bulkhead attachment process left channels between the plywood bulkhead and
> the deck or hull.  Water from various sources traveled through these
> channels then wicked up the plywood bulkhead.  We repaired/replaced aprox
> 14 linear feet of plywood bulkhead.  In most cases the water only wicked up
> 12” to 16”.
>
>
>
> I also noticed that the damp balsa around the perimeter of the repair area
> only dried where exposed.  If you want to insure all damp balsa is dried or
> removed/replaced you may need to expand the repair area.
>
>
>
> We performed most of Calypso’s deck repairs from inside.  As we kept
> Calypso in its marina slip during the work we needed to avoid the
> appearance of performing “major” repairs in the water.  By staying below
> deck we reduced the noise and dust considerably.  If we had been hauled out
> working from above would have been easier and faster.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C 43
>
> Seattle/Port Townsend’s yard
>
>
>
> *From: *Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Thursday, May 20, 2021 10:56 AM
> *To: *Stus-List 
> *Cc: *Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject: *Stus-List fun with moisture meter and how/if to fix wet spot
>
>
>
> I got a Klein moisture meter from Amazon and decided to give it a go.
> Plenty of areas I thought might have high readings did not. Most of the
> deck seems to be in the 1%-6% range.  The one area with a high reading is
> not near any penetrations, I cannot figure it out. Forward of the mast and
> aft of the forward hatch there is an area about 1 or 2 square feet that
> reads high enough to peg the meter at 40%! The wet area does not extend to
> either the mast or the hatch, it does not seem to come from either one. The
> deck does not feel obviously mushy either, it just looks crazed in that
> spot. The only real way to feel anything different is in the cabin, the
> liner seems detached if you press up on it. This is basically in the
> passageway forward around the hanging locker.
>
>
>
> Now the question is what next? Do I cut the deck off from above or repair
> from below? My feeling is working from above will be 100 times easier until
> the very last step of making the deck look not cup apart at the end. I
> still have no idea how water could get there except possibly the vents that
> are over the head and hanging locker. The original dorades put in before we
> got the boat were very poorly done, I had to do a lot of sealing and
> filling with epoxy when I put the solar vents in. It would require water to
> run uphill and aft though
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Parting Out C 30-1

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

FYI, this is the boat from our club involved in a collision last fall (with
another C 30!) during a race. It was written off by insurance, the owner
bought it back and then sold it, as it had a brand new Sole diesel engine.
The current seller (not the owner from our club) presumably bought it and
took out the engine, and is now selling the rest. I've never been aboard,
so don't have any other info.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, May 14, 2021 at 4:29 PM Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not mine  perhaps of some interest:
> https://www.usedvictoria.com/all/38880626
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: How is this boat related to C?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

There is a Mirage 33 across the dock from me (and a friend has a 35, which
is the same with a reverse transom), and it is definitely very different
from a C below the waterline. Nice boat and a nice interior.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 3:06 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/mirage-35-3695321/
>
>
>
> It says a Bob Perry design, but that REALLY looks likes a C
>
> ???
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Changing subject when subject changes

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Sorry, my bad. I don't use email nearly as often as I used to, but that's
not really an excuse. I'll try to trim my replies as well, another faux pas
of which I've been guilty of!

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Please modify the subject line when changing the subject of your messages.
>
> What either of these two (below) has to do with Rub rail gouge repair is
> beyond me. Personally, I'm more concerned when the original discussion is
> not something I'm interested in (and don't read the thread) but it changes
> to something that does interest me but I'll never see it because the
> subject line wasn't updated.
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: galley port size C 35 MK I

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I think this is the same as the forward ports on the mk2, and if so, I have
an old Fuller Brush opening port in my head that fits. No longer made, but
they do seem very durable, and mine does not leak (although I never open
it). Maybe you can find them somewhere; I've contacted Fuller Brush to get
new seals, and they deny ever making them...
The other mk2 here has replacement ports, but I don't think the small ones
open.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 6:52 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know if there is an opening port that will fit the cutout of
> the port over the galley sink facing aft on a C 35 MK I? (also the same
> as the forward two ports I think)
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rub rail gouge repair

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I'm still getting the hang of coaxing the speed out of her, especially in
light air. Had a brief sail on a CM1200 race boat the other night, and it
was an eye opener - barely a breath of wind and we were making 3-4 knots
closehauled with a #4 jib. Closereaching in 10 knots we could make a steady
7knots, and then we had a fun return making 10 knots in about 14-15 using
the huge A1 (1250sqft). Now I know why this boat leaves everyone in its
wake! Quite a ride.
We looked at some really comfortable looking cruisers for our next boat,
but I still want something that can move in light air, yet be comfortable
in big seas... the search continues. Meanwhile, we'll enjoy what we have. :)

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 1:45 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes I agree very good. Everything about the way they built only 147 35
> MKII hulls was superb and has stood the test of time. Shear lines are very
> appealing. The boat is quick yet has the “big boat” feel at the helm. And
> rides the seas like a thoroughbred.
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 9:25 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think it was acetone that I used also, which worked very well to remove
>> the red stains from polishing my red paint. I have to remember to do it
>> before waxing, or it will also take the wax off... which I forgot to do
>> this year, so I will see if the rain will wash the red spots off.
>> Whatever material C used, it is amazingly durable. I don't think I've
>> seen any rubber product that has held up this well for 46 years. Certainly
>> beats any of the cheap stuff made today, like dorade vents and winch handle
>> holders.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>
>>
>> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 3:23 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Biggest problem with some sealants/adhesives like 5200 for exterior use
>>> is sunlight or uv exposure. Best thing I have found to clean the rub rail
>>> is an acetone dampened rag. So far no detrimental effect on Alianna’s rub
>>> rail that i can see.
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 3:49 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Looks like it might make a nice mast boot.
>>>>
>>>> The biggest problem with sealers and adhesives (like 5200) is they get
>>>> dirty, and seem to attract discoloration.
>>>>
>>>> Be interesting to see how it holds up for you, you have a good
>>>> environment for testing.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> But, wait, wait, isn’t there more?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bill Coleman
>>>>
>>>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>>>> *Sent:* Friday, May 07, 2021 8:23 PM
>>>> *To:* CnClist
>>>> *Cc:* Dennis C.
>>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Rub rail gouge repair
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> FWIW, I've been working on repairing some deep gouges in Touche's rub
>>>> rail from Hurricane Sally last year.  The idea was to fill the gouges with
>>>> some sort of white "stuff" and then wet sand it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> What didn't work: 3M 5200.  100% fail.  Not only didn't it sand well,
>>>> it didn't adhere to the rubber rub rail.  Just balled up and rubbed off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> What did seem to work:  white Flex Paste (not Flex Seal).  It actually
>>>> stuck well to the rub rail and sanded well.  Took a lot of elbow grease to
>>>> wet sand but the final result seems to pass the 10 foot test.  It's a LOT
>>>> of work, however.  Initial sand to shape with 220 then progressively
>>>> finer.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.flexsealproducts.com/product/flex-paste/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I also found that lightly wet sanding with 800-1000 grit restores the
>>>> white rubber.  That question has appeared on this list many times.  I've
>>>> never liked any of the suggested chemica

Stus-List Re: Rub rail gouge repair

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I think it was acetone that I used also, which worked very well to remove
the red stains from polishing my red paint. I have to remember to do it
before waxing, or it will also take the wax off... which I forgot to do
this year, so I will see if the rain will wash the red spots off.
Whatever material C used, it is amazingly durable. I don't think I've
seen any rubber product that has held up this well for 46 years. Certainly
beats any of the cheap stuff made today, like dorade vents and winch handle
holders.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 3:23 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Biggest problem with some sealants/adhesives like 5200 for exterior use is
> sunlight or uv exposure. Best thing I have found to clean the rub rail is
> an acetone dampened rag. So far no detrimental effect on Alianna’s rub rail
> that i can see.
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 3:49 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looks like it might make a nice mast boot.
>>
>> The biggest problem with sealers and adhesives (like 5200) is they get
>> dirty, and seem to attract discoloration.
>>
>> Be interesting to see how it holds up for you, you have a good
>> environment for testing.
>>
>>
>>
>> But, wait, wait, isn’t there more?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Friday, May 07, 2021 8:23 PM
>> *To:* CnClist
>> *Cc:* Dennis C.
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Rub rail gouge repair
>>
>>
>>
>> FWIW, I've been working on repairing some deep gouges in Touche's rub
>> rail from Hurricane Sally last year.  The idea was to fill the gouges with
>> some sort of white "stuff" and then wet sand it.
>>
>>
>>
>> What didn't work: 3M 5200.  100% fail.  Not only didn't it sand well, it
>> didn't adhere to the rubber rub rail.  Just balled up and rubbed off.
>>
>>
>>
>> What did seem to work:  white Flex Paste (not Flex Seal).  It actually
>> stuck well to the rub rail and sanded well.  Took a lot of elbow grease to
>> wet sand but the final result seems to pass the 10 foot test.  It's a LOT
>> of work, however.  Initial sand to shape with 220 then progressively
>> finer.
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.flexsealproducts.com/product/flex-paste/
>>
>>
>>
>> I also found that lightly wet sanding with 800-1000 grit restores the
>> white rubber.  That question has appeared on this list many times.  I've
>> never liked any of the suggested chemical or solvent solutions.  Not overly
>> happy about wet sanding it either but might actually be less damaging than
>> chemicals.
>>
>>
>>
>> Your experience may vary.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>
>> Mandeville, LA
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 2021 racing

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Good to see! Still no racing here, and most of the distance races for the
season have already been cancelled :(
But I did manage to sneak a sail on a very fun boat at our club last night
when the skipper wanted a few extra crew for a quick sail at sunset. It's a
CM1200, and a very quick boat. At one point we were doing 7 knots with 9-10
knots of wind, and only the main and a #4 blade (he was checking the sail).
We then had a wonderful run home doing ~10 knots with his huge 1300 sqft
asym, which I got to fly. I was amazed how this boat just slices through
the water with virtually no wake at 10 knots. Quite an overwhelming number
of control lines though, definitely not for singlehanding!
It was just what I needed after 6 weeks of boat projects and no sailing...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 10:10 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey guys,
> FWIW, Chesapeake Bay racing has started.  I crewed on a C 99 for a
> Wednesday Nite race on the Patapsco River, actually Rock Creek Sailing
> Association, near Baltimore.  And Annapolis has started their series.
> Here's a brief video worth watching.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLXc-mg53Wo
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Our 35-2 has a modest reverse transom, and the through-hull I got would
have just allowed for drainage, but I decided to put on the aft quarter,
about 12" forward of the transom edge. The heater is just below the deck,
so it's all downhill to the outlet, and I've had no issues so far. Many
newer boats (Dufour, Beneteau, Island Packet) use a similar location also,
so I figured it's probably ok.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 1:37 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We have a reverse transom too but our Espar exhaust doesn't go through the
> transom. It goes through the side of the hull back close to the transom.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Tue, 4 May 2021 at 16:19, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Wondering if anyone on this list has installed a forced air heater with
>> the exhaust thru hull on a reverse transom?
>>
>>
>>
>> The thru hull I purchased can be seen has an elbow to force the exhaust
>> hose into an upward loop but with a reverse transom there is potential for
>> water to build up at this elbow joint.
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone experience with this and how it is typically resolved?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Hoyt
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax NS
>>
>> www.hoytsailing.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: clogged head hoses

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

We used a spray bottle mix of vinegar, vegetable oil, and lemon juice all
last season, which seemed to help a little bit (a few squirts right at the
end of each flush so it sits in the lines). However, when I had it apart
this spring (got a near new toilet for $50), I was surprised how much build
up there was in the lines and the joker valve after just one season, so we
probably need to increase the vinegar dose...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 11:04 AM John Irvin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe a couple of teaspoons of vegetable oil beginning and mid season
> is good for gaskets and seals.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 3, 2021, at 2:01 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Vinegar isn’t likely to fix an already clogged head, but flushing some
> every now and then is a great preventative measure. It also works on RWC
> engines to flush deposits out before they get too bad. Every now and then I
> run my exhaust hose into a trash can full of vinegar and also run the
> engine water intake hose into the same bucket and let go round-and-round
> until it gets nice and hot.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Gmail filter

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

In my case, the issue was forwarding to another GMail account, and that I
send from a different account than I receive emails. So if you have more
than one GMail account in play, ensure the "never mark as spam" filter is
on all of them.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 5:40 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can turn off conversation mode in gmail.  Conversation mode really
> blows!
>
>
>
> You can also use a different email program with your gmail account.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* May 1, 2021 2:31 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Gmail filter
>
>
>
> I'm not having any issue with gmail using this filter:
>
>
>
> Matches: *subject:(*Stus-List*)*
> Do this: Skip Inbox, Apply label "C list", Never send it to Spam
>
>
>
> I have a folder called C list.  Hence the second criteria in my filter.
> All list emails end up in that folder.
>
>
>
>   --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 11:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I found a bunch of messages in my Spam folder. I have no idea why they are
> going there, but I'm getting pretty sick of Gmail.
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 1 May 2021 at 04:59, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> And about 50% of the time my responses don't post.  I responded to this
> thread about using natural sponge and it never showed up on the list.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Line question. 33-2 main halyard

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I am facing a similar decision now. My two jib halyards were new when I
bought her two years ago, and are still like new. They appear to be a good
low stretch double braid with a distinctive square pattern; I've been told
it looks like Marlow. They are quite thin, 5/16" or so, but seem to have no
more stretch than the main which is 7/16 or 3/8 (hard to tell for sure, it
is a bit worn, but shows no significant chafe anywhere. My new nylon
sheaves are a bit narrower, so the main halyard is a snug fit. It will
work, and I will probably try it for a while, but when I do replace, I will
probably go to 3/8 or even 5/16 in a low stretch double braid. Has anyone
tried these, or this brand?
https://www.lanexyachting.com/en/ready-made-halyard/p-32/

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 2:32 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My main halyard was chafing where  it rested on the masthead turning block
> when the sail was furled, I expect because I was clipping its halyard to
> the lifeline, later switched to the end of the boom.  I had neatly spliced
> a shackle for the headboard. So I couldn’t ‘freshen the nip’ by shortening
> the halyard, nor could I end-for-end it to extend its life.  So, next time
> no splice, I will simply tie it.  thanks for the suggestion josh. It’s worn
> enough that next time is now...
>
> The halyard is specified as wire/rope, 94’ total, and the rope diameter is
> 7/16”.   I had switched to rope previously, some kind of mid priced low
> stretch Dacron double braid.
>
> Other than comfort - is there any reason I must use 7/16, or could I
> reduce to 3/8”?  It’s a pile of line to stow when the main is set.
> Any line recommended for ease of coiling  and handling? (Would be a
> nuisance to have to wrassle with it...)
>
> Thanks all.   Dave
>
>
> 33-2
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 28, 2021, at 12:59 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Yes Ron, double braid is really the only best option.  It appears that you
> have interpreted the graph in the same manner as I.  There are a few other
> factors that are going to impact your choice.
>
> I got the Samson XLS dirt cheap for my check stays.  I chose it for its
> cost first, color second, and ability to splice core to core third.  It has
> performed fine in this application.  My only complaint is that it doesn't
> flake neatly and I'm regularly fighting with hockles.  Sta-set has never
> given me the problems that XLS does.  If you can find the novabraid in a
> desirable color I might suggest pursuing that option.
>
> There is a color scheme that I found online which you may want to
> consider.  Green for mainsail, blue for headsail, red for spinnaker.
> Solids for halyards.  Various fleck colors and patterns for the sheets and
> control lines.  In this manner you and anyone else can quickly identify any
> line associated with the mainsail because of its "green" scheme.
>
> And since you are talking about a halyard, a lot of people like to make a
> core to core eye splice for attaching to the headboard shackle.  Consider
> that the spice will stiffen and thicken line for 1 to 2 feet.  This is the
> exact area where the line will pass through the masthead sheave.  It is
> also the place where added resistance when hoisting the main is least
> desired.  Instead you might try a double over hand on itself.  Read more
> here:
> http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/46/doitie.html
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 21:40 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks folks for all the responses.  I know a lot more than before,
>> although still sadly lacking.  Thanks for the PS article which helped some
>> as well.
>> If I've understood correctly, the general consensus seems to be a double
>> braid is the way to go for a guy just cruising around.
>> I did remember one response that mentioned that Sta-set might be more
>> expensive than needed.  What would be cheaper versions of a double braid.
>> Would Novabraid and Samson XLS be examples?  I do recall the Samson name
>> from decades ago.  Was there a double braid from Samson cheaper than XLS
>> that's still around?
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send 

Stus-List Re: Stu's Zoom meeting

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Sorry I missed it! By the time I remembered, it was 45 minutes in and I was
fighting with rivets trying to install conduit in my mast... The job is
mostly done now. I also discovered that one of my headsail halyards was on
the wrong side of the upper shroud compression tube, and had sawn a nice
groove into it. It's probably from the old wire halyards, and must have
been that way for years. It will be pulled back in correctly...


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Apr 22, 2021 at 7:03 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Stu,
>
> Just wanted to thank you for tonight's zoom meeting.  It was fun to see
> fellow C'ers and JohnKelly's show and tell.
> Interesting to see that big tow model of Evergreen and the sailing dinghy,
> Water Rat, and hear his stories about his Dad.
>
> Thanks Stu for taking the time to do these Zoom meetings and I hope
> everyone gets a chance to join one and meet other owners and share their
> unique stories.  It's a great community.
>
> Chuck
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: backstay tension?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Ok, I thought you meant the coated lifeline type. I've seen those plastic
covers on a few boats, and they should be fine provided they are removed
and the wire flushed every so often.

Your idea of measuring the rod aloft is a good one, although the estimate
you are using is probably close enough, provided you are not above 80% of
the recommended maximum for the boat (or the wire).

I'm not familiar with the mast on the 32, but if it's like most of the
later models, it's probably more flexible than the mast on my 35mk2, which
doesn't seem to bend much at all. I've helped step & unstep several masts
at our club lately, and I noted that our mast showed by far the least
amount of flex (and the most weight) of any of them - when hanging
horizontally from the crane, with the strap just below the spreaders, with
the spreaders pointing up/down, there was very little bend, and this is the
weakest dimension. So I can imagine that my attempts to induce bend are
mostly futile, and I am simply straightening the forestay(s) for going
upwind. In my case, with a non-factory dual forestay setup, this is made
more difficult. The inner forestay is attached at the upper shroud bracket,
so only a few feet below the masthead. It's a Hyde Streamstay solid rod
forestay, so probably doesn't stretch much. It will be interesting to see
how it does once I get the mast back in, now that my hydraulics will hold
pressure to >2500psi. I left it at 1500psi compressing a section of steel
pipe for several days, and it didn't move, except for changes due to
temperature (which were quite a lot!)

I'm not sure there was actually anything wrong with my hydraulics (a shop
replaced the small piston seal), since I have determined that it now
reaches the limit of the stroke at around 800psi. I plan to either replace
the backstay, or shorten the two SS bar extensions that are in place so
that I can get to ~2000psi without running out of stroke. I suspect that 1"
or so will be enough. My HydraTech adjuster only has about 3.5" of travel -
probably not enough for a bendy mast, but presumably enough for mine. It
also does not extend the piston easily - I understand some are spring
loaded for release - so when testing on the bench, I need to apply a LOT of
force to pull the piston back out - several hundred pounds at least. This
could indicate a problem, so I may also be on the lookout for a suitable
turnbuckle as a backup. I've had no luck finding any information on the
HydraTech unit I have.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 6:38 AM Robert Abbott 
wrote:

> The plastic over the wire is not a permanent/factory installationthe
> boat's original owner must have decided to put them on for some
> reasonmaybe to reduce chafing on the bimini...you can buy these
> coverings by the foot at most yacht shops...you just pry them open to
> fit on and off.  He also put a piece on the babystay.
>
> The plastic coating(s) were removed few years back when I had a North
> rigger inspect the standing rigging...no signs of corrosion anywhere on
> the riggingthey can be removed and put on easily as they are split.
>
> The backstay is #8 Navtec rod but the split is too high above the
> cockpit to measure with the Loos RT10 so I measure the two wire(s)
> tensionI adjust the turnbuckles until the gauge reads approx. 500
> lbs. each and assume that means approx. 1000 lbs on the single rod.
>
> It probably doesn't work that way but that's the way I have been doing
> it for 15 years and the rig hasn't come down yet.
>
> Maybe I should tension the rig and get hoisted to measure the SS rod
> and when it is showing 1000 lbs without any added tension from the
> adjuster, measure the two wires (without the plastic wrap).
>
> Advice?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2021-04-18 10:44 p.m., Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
> > Not sure about your question, but the plastic coated wire for a
> > backstay would scare me... Be sure to check for corrosion.
> > My 35mk2 manual states 2200psi i believe as the maximum pressure, and
> > there is a chart which shows what tension this equates to. HydraTech
> > tensioner, made in Vancouver. Mine is now holding pressure again, but
> > I have no mast to attach it to at the moment...
> >
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: backstay tension?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Not sure about your question, but the plastic coated wire for a backstay
would scare me... Be sure to check for corrosion.
My 35mk2 manual states 2200psi i believe as the maximum pressure, and there
is a chart which shows what tension this equates to. HydraTech tensioner,
made in Vancouver. Mine is now holding pressure again, but I have no mast
to attach it to at the moment...

On Sun, Apr 18, 2021, 17:21 Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any advice/help appreciatedmy 32 has a split backstaySS rod down
> to the split where it is now wire coated to the turnbucklesno
> hydraulic gauge to measure pressureevery year when stepping the mast
> the backstay is attached and I tension the two turnbuckles before any
> after manual tension available...by looking at the mast, feeling the
> forestay, and the backstay,and I use my Loos RT 10 gaugeI know
> meant for the rod rig shrouds and not  to measure tension on each side
> of the plastic coated wire split backstay.   I estimate it to be 1,000
> to 1,100 lbs. the way I am doing it but who knows.
>
> Is there a better way to determine what my at the slip backstay tension
> could be?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

That's a great deal, but mine are 3.5" x 7/16" wide. A guy at our club has
found me some in nylon that should work. Not as good as Delrin, but they
should do. Acetal/Delrin material is crazy expensive around here... was
going to be $90 just for material to make some.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 2:23 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a bunch of 4” X 5/8” in Black UV Delrin, $8 each without bearings.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Shawn Wright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 15, 2021 4:12 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves
>
>
>
> Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3"
> pulley diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a
> bronze bushing, but Delrin or similar would also work.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Shawn Wright
>
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3"
pulley diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a
bronze bushing, but Delrin or similar would also work.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C half-sister?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

We looked at a nice one before buying our 35-2. A lot of boat for the size
(but still a bit too small for us), but it seemed a bit under-built in a
few areas like transom and rigging. They sail quite well, of course, being
a C design. I've seen several Newports on the hard (28 and 30) and noted
much more hull deflection when on the stands than similar era boats,
suggesting less rigid layup.
There's a Newport 27 (flat top, also C design) in our club which always
does well on the race course.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Apr 8, 2021 at 2:09 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wow, a thousand copies! That's a big run-
>
> Bill
>
> On Thu, Apr 8, 2021, 4:30 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/newport-28
>>
>> Motion Designs Limited
>> 647 990 7752
>>
>> Subject: Stus-List C half-sister?
>>
>>
>> Is this boat a C hull?
>> https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/arnold-newport-28/7300339195.html
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Red Jacket video tonight with Rob Mazza

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Not sure if this was mentioned here, but I saw it on the FB group, and just
registered. They will have a recording link if you're unable to view it
live. (7pm EDT)

https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/marine-museum-of-the-great-lakes-at-kingston/events/rob-mazza/


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

While I don't have a tar bottom, I enjoyed this thorough account as there
are some good general tips. What is a chip brush?

Thanks
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:03 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave,
>
> Is it possible you are trying to remove VC Tar or similar?
>
> Coal tar epoxy is the corrosion protection system we typically spec for
> steel sheets in a marine environment. Bluewater makes a bottom barrier coat
> for boats, but I suspect it's for commercial use on steel hull barges etc.
>
> If you're dealing with VC Tar as Joe and others have suggested, then
> misery loves company. I am the final stretch of the same project.
>
> For me the tar was softer, it smelled terrible and was still somewhat
> tacky in warm temps. After much trial and error I settled on two techniques
> that worked for me.
>
>1. Chemical stripping - I used Citristrip and a glass cleaner
>
> (4-inch
>wide razor blade) in lieu of a putty knife. With the razor blade (lots of
>replacement blades), and a little practice, i was able to peel off two or
>three layers of paint at a time and leave a smooth fair surface. On the
>tar, i was able to get between the tar and gel coat without gouging the
>hull. My boat was raced by the original owner and had a decent bottom, but
>had suffered from paint build up. While this sounds tedious, it minimized
>the fairing and longboarding. The rub is the stripper needs the temps to be
>close to 60-F (15-C) to work and needs to sit for at least an hour or two.
>If you're in direct sunlight or windy, you'll want to cover the stripper
>with plastic. You want to avoid letting it dry out. (Another boat in the
>yard didn't use plastic, but just mist the gel with a water bottle to keep
>it from drying out.) With the citristrip, i was able to apply it and leave
>it overnight covered with plastic and then come back to scrape it the next
>day. It seemed to work up to about 3-layers of paint.
>2. Mechanical Removal - Unfortunately, I counted 12 separate colors of
>bottom paint before getting to the tar, i'm located in the NE and with a
>hard launch date, i had to use a mix of chemical and mechanical removal.
>The only system that worked for me without destroying the hull shape was a
>6-inch random orbital sander using 80-grit Mirka Abranet pads. The Mirka
>are a mesh pad and do not clog with the tar as long as your dust collection
>system is decent. I used a home depot dust stopper
>
> 
>  separator
>before the shop vac. It is stupid expensive for what it is... but it really
>works and saves your shop vac filters. I could get 10 to 15 minutes out of
>the Mirka pads. I've gone through close to 30-pads in the project.
>
>
> I tried using traditional 36-grit pads but they were dulled after about
> 5-minutes. Also tried the Bahco carbide scrapers. Those worked well
> for level surfaces (e.g the rudder that you drop and put on saw horses) but
> it was tough sledding to work on your back under the hull. If you do go
> that route, bevel the edges of the blades and you won't gouge the hull.
>
> If you're still here, a few other lessons I learned the hard way.
>
> Managing heat on the pads was important. The Mirka pads do not insulate
> the hooks from heat. So you'll absolutely need to use pad protectors. If
> you don't, you'll melt the hooks on your sander and your disks will be
> flying off the sander by lunch on the first day. I lost a few days waiting
> for new parts when this happened to me... I also found lighter pressure on
> the sander worked better. Letting the pad spin faster allowed it to chew
> more of the material away. Easier on the shoulders too.
>
> Switching back to the stripper, I applied with a chip brush. Someone in
> the yard pointed out that i should only be brushing in one direction. Most
> have a wax in them that helps prevent drying out. Applying in one direction
> certainly helped increase the working time of the gel. Being dutch, i was
> able to wash the chip brush in hot water and used one brush for the whole
> job.
>
> Best of luck with the project -- cheers,
>
> matt
>
> C 27 Mk V
> EDUAM
> RYC, NJ
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:51 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think this might mean coal tar epoxy barrier coat, which is nice until
>> it starts coming off ☹
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the 

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK II

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

A fine looking example with some nice upgrades. I noticed the new SS mast
step, which appears to have a keel stud/nut aft of the mast. Mine is under
the mast (or so I'm told...), so does this mean that a new stud was tapped
into the keel at this point? Certainly easier to check torque in that
location.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:57 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> If anyone is in the market, a friend of mine is listing his 1974 35 mk II,
> well kept version that has been to Bermuda many times.
>
>
>
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/c-c-35-mk-ii-3821830/
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> Mystic, CT 06355
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I can
attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done a
small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given), but
the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply
varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others
look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and
make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave
it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Danny,
> Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
>
> C
>
> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.
> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained
> and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to
> work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a
> beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and
> coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that
> just needs a quick wax to maintain.
>
> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots
> took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that
> way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water
> beading off!
>
> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier
> to apply than a proper varnish job.
>
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> Currently; Barrington, RI
>
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: filling in a through-hull hole

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks, Chuck. In the case of my DST-800, I discovered the old unit was
only 1/8" larger, so I am going to re-use the hole and install with 4200.
But I may need to fill some other holes as I go along, this is good info.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:53 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> The number of layers needed is driven by the weight of the cloth chosen
> and how thick the hull is there.  I'd use 1708 as it is so easy to work
> with.  It's two bias layers of 8oz roving stitched to some 1 1/2 oz glass
> mat.  Measure the thickness of the hull after removing the thru-hull.
> Multiply that by 12 to mark a circle around the hole.  Then grind a bevel
> from the hole out to the mark.  Cover the hole from the inside with some
> mylar sheet, taped tight to the surface.
>
> IIRC, 5 layers of 1708 yielded about 3/16" thickness, four or five layers
> is max I would lay up, then wait till it's tacky like an hour or so.  Then
> lay up four or five more layers and wait for it to cool and get tacky and
> lay up more layers.  I use peelply to draw off the excess resin with a fin
> roller and if you let it cure overnight with peelply, you can avoid sanding
> before applying more layers the next day.  Repeat till the repair is higher
> than the surrounding surface and let it cure and grind flush.
>
> Here is a good video that shows some good tips for West System and 1708.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSKbF6jGJKw=2009s
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 03/24/2021 10:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a
> through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy?  Some of
> mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the
> same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.
>
> Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly for sure
> but it’s not difficult.
>
> Some pics here:
>
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1
>
> Dave
> 33-2
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: HappyBuy diesel heater

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I installed our Espar D2 as far aft as possible - up high under the aft
coaming on the starboard side. This allowed for a short exhaust outlet
(note that the standard mufflers sold with these units may not be marine
grade and leak exhaust gases as they are not fully welded; I bought a
marine grade unit online for $100, others have had the seams welded). I ran
the air duct along the underside of the starboard cockpit coaming where it
exits just above the nav desk. I may extend it further forward at some
point, but it works well enough on our 35 mk2, although the D2 model
struggles in 0C outside temperatures and runs on high for a long time.
Keeping it as far aft as possible helps reduce noise. One it switches to
low, it is fairly quiet.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 5:38 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I purchased on e of the Chinese made copies of the Espar heater.  It is
> the 5KW version.  Next step is to figure out where to install it.
>
>
>
> Persistence has basically the identical layout to a C 33-2.  Have any
> 33-2 owners installed one of these and if so where?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a
through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy?  Some of
mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the
> same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.
>
> Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly for sure
> but it’s not difficult.
>
> Some pics here:
>
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1
>
> Dave
> 33-2
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

You're right; the numbers for our boats suggest that (although a larger
boat should ride better, the 40 isn't that much larger), so it's probably
just my lack of experience in keeping her balanced, and maybe the bagged
out sails at times. It's hard to tell from a video I guess. We generally
see pretty short steep waves around here, which can really stop the boat,
and sometimes make tacking a challenge. We tend to reef later than we
should since it's all at the mast, and my wife is less confident helming
the boat when the wind picks up. The boat in the video looks like it has
one reef in the main, and is nicely balanced. I will see about improving
our reefing setup while we're in maintenance mode over the next month.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 3:10 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Based on comparison data from the sailing calculator I would say the 35
> MKII would perform as good or better than the C 40 in such conditions
> considering motion comfort factor, capsize ratio, speed and tracking.
> Tracking is a function of balance and I can certainly say that the 35 MKII
> tracks remarkably well upwind and rides the waves very well too.  Does
> anyone else use the resources under technical info on the cncphotoalbum
> site to see predicted performance criteria and compare boats.
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 2:35 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm impressed how well the boat tracks, and that the auto pilot seems to
>> handle it well - looks like a quadrant driven unit. My wheel pilot
>> certainly wouldn't cope in those conditions. The stern wake is impressive -
>> they are moving along well!
>>
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 6:56 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> C 40 in action:
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBSNR-PdWlY
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I'm impressed how well the boat tracks, and that the auto pilot seems to
handle it well - looks like a quadrant driven unit. My wheel pilot
certainly wouldn't cope in those conditions. The stern wake is impressive -
they are moving along well!

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 6:56 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> C 40 in action:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBSNR-PdWlY
>
>
>
> This looks really fun 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rendezvous update

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Sorry I missed it... was away from list emails for a few weeks (but finally
sorted my list delivery issues!)

Hope to join the next one, although it's the day after haulout, so I could
be busy getting ready to install lots of new toys... :)


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Mar 3, 2021 at 11:25 AM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Again, the rendezvous was a success.  Regulars and some new faces were
> there (missed one face who does not have a camera).  Always a good chat
> session for those who attended.
>
> The next rendezvous will be Wednesday, March 24.  Mark your calendars
> now!!  I’ll send out invitations soon.
>
> Stay safe & healthy
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

There's always this one if you need more space:

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1982/c-c-landfall-48-3711008/

I would be very tempted by either of these boats if they were nearer to me.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 10:05 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Given the fin keel and spade rudder, I would guess a LOT better than the
> average motorsailer and worse than a C 40.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 21, 2021 12:26 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer
>
>
>
> That looks like a very comfortable boat for our BC winters. I wonder how
> they sail?
>
> --
>
> Shawn Wright
>
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 9:24 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Nice looking boat! I think you deserve this Joe.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie PA
>
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021, 12:01 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> https://www.crusaderyachts.com/boats-for-sale/1982-aztec-nautilus-40-pilothouse-c-c-annapolis-maryland-7632888/
>
>
>
> I had no idea C made these!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

That looks like a very comfortable boat for our BC winters. I wonder how
they sail?
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 9:24 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Nice looking boat! I think you deserve this Joe.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021, 12:01 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> https://www.crusaderyachts.com/boats-for-sale/1982-aztec-nautilus-40-pilothouse-c-c-annapolis-maryland-7632888/
>>
>>
>>
>> I had no idea C made these!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I used Six10 on my keel joint at West's recommendation. Haven't hauled yet
to see how it has held up, but it seemed to work well enough. A bit
difficult to work with, but I don't have much experience with epoxy. I use
it without the mixing nozzles for small jobs, including some holes in the
deck, but I noticed it is still not quite thick enough to prevent levelling
out, so I had to tape a plastic piece over the top to keep it flush with
the deck.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is a West equivalent to the Thixo Flex.  Also fits in a caulking
> gun.  I believe it is 610.  Same nozzles.A couple bucks more, but available
> most places that sell West.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 10:08 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Learned these things the hard way:
>>
>> The *3M heavy duty shipping tape* is a great product and available
>> everywhere and doesn't leave a residue like duct tape.  After the epoxy
>> cures, it peels right off and will leave the final surface smooth.
>>
>> If you use *404 High Density Filler* instead of 406, you'll find it is
>> heavier than air and doesn't blow around like 406.  The same when sanding,
>> the dust falls instead of blowing into your lungs or onto the neighbor's
>> boat.
>>
>> A small *wet vac* is a must on the boat for any of this work.  I like a
>> 6 gallon with big strong motor like 4.5HP peak and I add the extra long
>> hose.  I glued a piece of carpet to the bottom so it doesn't scuff the deck
>> or cabin sole.  I keep a paper bag in it and I can position the machine in
>> the middle of the boat and reach from bow to stern.  Be mindful where the
>> exhaust is pointed.
>>
>> Another great product I started using is *Thixo Flex*, a flexible epoxy
>> in a caulking cartridge from Jamestown Distributers.  It provides a 45
>> minute working time and there's much less waste.  The two parts mix in the
>> nozzle and when you're done, you release the trigger and let the product
>> cure in the nozzle tip.  When you want to use it later, just change the
>> nozzle and start again.  Extra nozzles are cheap.
>>
>> Chuck S
>>
>>
>>
>> On 02/17/2021 9:17 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Ron:
>>
>>
>>
>> I have found that black Gorilla “duct” tape works well, although I may
>> try the 3M mailing tape someone suggested.  Also, if you are using West
>> System, before you put in an epoxy mixture (like colloidal silica), you are
>> supposed to “wet” the surrounding area first to ensure a strong bond.  (The
>> exception is cotton filler, which is not as strong but will weep epoxy into
>> the surrounding area.)  Wear a good filter mask when mixing colloidal
>> silica.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bigger, open holes are handled differently than bolt holes.  For example,
>> when I replaced my deck fills last year (about a 2 inch open hole), first I
>> removed some of the wood deck core exposed by the hole.  I could have
>> wetted the wood with a disposable paint brush -- I like the plastic
>> bristles, which do not fall off during application – but instead I decided
>> to tape the entire hole underneath with Gorilla tape.  I then filled the
>> hole with epoxy, went down below and removed the tape while using a
>> container to catch the epoxy draining out, used the same epoxy for the
>> colloidal silica mix, then troweled the mix back into the deck core area
>> where the wood had been removed.  There was no doubt about wetting the
>> surface using this method.  The colloidal silica mix was a mayonnaise
>> consistency and did not need support underneath while it cured.  When the
>> mixture cured, I used one of those round sanding drums that go into your
>> drill to smooth the cured surface, then installed the new deck fills.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you’re just doing bolt holes, on the other hand, no need for colloidal
>> silica and all that fuss – just tape underneath and pour straight West
>> System.  Use the slow hardener, and MAKE SURE THE TAPE FULLY COVERS THE
>> HOLE AND IS ON FIRMLY (or you will have a big mess on your hands).  You’ll
>> lose a little volume after the pour as the epoxy works its way into the
>> wood core.  I usually go back and top it off.  If you lose a lot of epoxy,
>> something is wrong – check the tape.  If there is no leak at the tape, some
>> internal communication is going on.
>>
>>
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 17, 2021 8:16 AM
>> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
>> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck
>>
>>
>>
>> Put tape on the underside to cover the holes before filling with
>> thickened epoxy.  Then once cured drill appropriate sized hole in the epoxy
>> for the fastener.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Hoyt
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via 

Stus-List Re: Fuel Polishing System

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Sounds like a good plan, but I might consider plumbing it with tees and
valves so the secondary filter could become primary in case it still clogs
at a bad time.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 6:01 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> A year or so back, I removed a generator that was installed in the stern
> locker because it was totally frozen up.  When I did, an old small Racor
> came out with it.  I also already have a small 12 volt fuel pump.
>
> I am thinking about putting in a tee in the fuel line before the primary
> Racor, and plumbing in the small Racor and pump with a connection to an
> unused circuit breaker on my panel.  The output would go back to the tank.
>
> I could use Racors as small as 3 microns, and thus filter out any water or
> contaminants using the pump when at the dock or out sailing (we have plenty
> of solar power) especially when we're out banging through waves and shaking
> up the contents of the tank.
>
> This would serve to ensure the primary Racor doesn't clog.
>
> We haven't had any real problems, though this year I got some water in the
> primary Racor bowl.
>
> Are there any downsides to this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remove the Red Dot?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I see you're also in the PNW, so I would say the decision should be based
on how much cold weather sailing you do, and how much of that is motoring.
We do very little motoring, and are usually not too concerned about warming
the cabin when we are underway, so it doesn't make sense for us. The Wallas
is very efficient, both on electrical and fuel usage, so if it were me, I'd
remove the coolant heater (often called a bus heater). We have an Espar D2
forced air that we use once we are at anchor which works pretty well - we
were out for 5 days last week, and we are hoping to head out for a few days
this week.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 2:30 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'd remove anything that doesn't work and remove it's piping too, so you
> don't have to worry about future leaks.  You made it redundant by adding
> the Wallas heater.
>
> Not sure I understand a Red Dot heater.  It uses the engine coolant to
> heat the cabin?  That's not very useful when you turn off the engine.  I
> rarely run my engine so I'd prefer another heat source like a Webasco
> diesel heater.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 02/01/2021 1:54 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> As I install our new Wallas heater, I’m thinking of removing the original
> Red Dot that was wire cut by the PO—may need a new fan. At one point, I
> think it leaked coolant into the settee cavity. Cleaned up the spill and
> tightened hoses after we got the boat. I realize this heater offers steady
> “free” cabin heat while the engine is running, but with the new heater
> properly ducted, not sure if reviving the Red Dot is worth the effort.
> Removing leakage points and making a little space is appealing.
>
> If you have coolant plumbed heater, do you use it?
>
> I’m assuming a coolant bypass is needed at the engine (Yanmar 3H 27). Tips
> & resources appreciated.
>
>
> Peter McMinn C 37, sv Sirius Poulsbo, WA (thru April) Thanks to all of
> the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs
> involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send
> contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: weather station (update)

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I like the Davis instruments; they are well made and long lasting, which is
a rarity these days. I had an old spare unit installed at home for a while
but decided to sell it, as there are enough local stations near me that I
don't need it. When I was working, we hosted one of the local stations for
the Island Weather research project out of UVic. Some really interesting
weather data can be collected when you have dozens of these units spread
across an area:

http://www.islandweather.ca/

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Jan 26, 2021 at 6:38 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> A while back I asked for help with selecting a weather station. This is a
> quick update.
>
> Thanks to everyone who provided input.
>
> The Club decided to select the Davis system. It has been purchased in the
> fall and we have it installed in a temporary location on the Clubhouse. It
> will move to a better location in the Spring.
>
> If anyone is interested, here is a link to the weather page:
> *https://nsc.ca/nsc_weather/dev.php* .
>
> We are still working on the design.
>
> Thank you again
>
> Marek Dziedzic
> Nepean Sailing Club
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> _
> *From:* Marek Dziedzic
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 7, 2020 7:16 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Subject:* weather station
>
>
> Hi,
>
> This is not C related, but certainly sailing-related…
>
> I have a general question to anyone who is involved in running a weather
> station for the sailing club (or similar). Our Club had various weather
> stations over the years, but the last one failed about a year ago and we
> did not have anything this season. I was asked to investigate what we could
> use.
>
> I have two options already: Davis Vantage Pro 2 and WeatherFlow Tempest.
>
> Davis w/s is reasonably high-end, but it also has a rather high-end price.
> WeatherFlow is very new, has very attractive pricing and no moving parts.
>
> This will be a Sailing Club w/s, so the most important parameters are wind
> speed and direction; anything else is a bonus.
>
> Thanks
>
> Marek Dziedzic
> Ottawa, On
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk 1

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Not sure how the mk1 bilge compares, but my mk2 has two auto bilge pumps in
addition to the manual. Last winter I re worked everything as follows:

1. Manual whale gusher below engine panel in cockpit, hose led to just
aft of aft-most keel stud.
2. Rule 500gph pump between keel stud #2 & 3 (from stern), activated by
Johnson Controls magnetic switch between stud #1 & 2
3. Rule 2500gph pump with float switch between keel stud #3 & 4
4. In an emergency the engine raw water intake can be quickly switched to
pull from the bilge, although the pump is only rated at 360gph, so it's
probably not going to help a sinking ship much...

Both auto pumps are wired direct to battery busbar (fused), with manual
override switches on panel, and each has a check valve installed to prevent
the significant water in the hose from draining back to the bilge (these
can be a problem, either sticking open or closed if not kept clean). I have
a T and and plug in the water tank line so it can be emptied to the bilge,
which makes for a good way to check the pump operation and flush everything
with fresh water. The small pump uses 3/4" hose, the larger is 1 1/4" hose,
both exiting on the transom. I plan to move them to the stern counter some
day to get a cleaner looking transom.

Maybe overkill, but it was set up this way by a PO, and I've just tidied
it up a bit and I check them regularly with the manual switches, and with
the floats whenever I'm in the bilge.



--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:27 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> I have a C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn’t come with an automatic
> bilge pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an automatic
> bilge pump this off season and would like to hear suggestions.  I think the
> hose should go into the bilge well below the mast step but I am wondering
> to what people affixed the switch.
>
>
>
> As always, thanks in advance.
>
>
> --
>
> *Glen Eddie*
>
> Tel:  416-777-5357
>
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>
> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>
> VCard 
>
> *Torkin Manes LLP*
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
> torkinmanes.com 
>
>
> *Named Canada's Regional Law Firm of the Year by Chambers and Partners
> Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer*
>
> An international member of Ally Law 
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
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> message. Thank you.
>
>
> *Disclaimer*
>
> The information contained in this communication from the sender is
> confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others
> authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby
> notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in
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> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I like this trick; I did the opposite when drilling for new midship cleats,
and the over drilled hole is just barely hidden. I will try this method
next time, at least where clearance below allows for it.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 11:14 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Regarding Dennis’ comment about overbored holes being hidden by the track,
> a trick I like to use is to drill up from underneath and stop when the bit
> encounters the underside of the deck.  The result is that the hole on the
> deck surface stays the same size.  In addition, you know precisely where to
> place the deck fitting and drill the new hole.
>
>
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:44 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck
>
>
>
> IMHO, I think there are three tricks to mounting genoa or jib tracks.
>
>
>
> 1. Cut away the headliner so the backing plate is against the underside of
> the deck.  I've seen too many folks simply crush the headliner against the
> underdecking.
>
>
>
> 2.  Make sure the backing plate(s) is adequately thick and wide.  If not,
> the loads will pull the plate into the underdeck and the track will loosen
> then leak.
>
>
>
> 3. Use a BIG overbore and fill.
>
>
>
> I recommend a fairly large overbore and fill.  Normally, for a deck
> fitting, I would overbore 1 or 2 drill bit sizes.  For a genoa or jib
> track, I would drill a fairly big hole that would still be hidden by the
> track.  A plug of thickened epoxy will handle much more compression loading
> than a cored deck.  So you can really tighten down the fasteners.  Tighten
> them snugly then come back 24 hours later and really tighten them!
>
>   --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 11:18 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> +1 on Chuck's thoughts.
>
>
>
> You will add many sources of leaks with the tracks--been there and done
> that.
>
>
>
> I would try a ring solution first--no holes required. If it doesn't work
> like you prefer, then get out the drill and butyl tape!
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
> Water Phantom
>
> 1995 C XL/kcb
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the genoa
(which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer track. I
am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the foot length of
the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual sail on the boat?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used to
> race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When
> I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes
> down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already
> severely bent the port lifeline last year.
>
> Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so I'll be
> using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the deck.
> I've been given these locations for adding track:
> *Inline tracks*
> Front 20.0 aft of tack
> Back 26.6 aft of tack
> Front off center line 3.5
> Back off center line  4.1
>
> *Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
> *130 %  Transverse*
> 19.5 Aft of jib tack
>
> *155% Transverse*
> 23.1  aft of tack
>
> I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to the toe
> rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday it will
> be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
>
> What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be straight,
> if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with Garhauer
> adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two months
> to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
>
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Repair job

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

On my 35-2, heavy rain blowing against the hatchboards has caused a bit of
water to leak at the corner joints at the bottom edge, where the U channel
pieces are joined. I have left a sheet of plastic covering the hatch for
the winter storm season until I can re-seal things to prevent any damage.

As for repairing the damage, possibly you could cut a section out using an
oscillating tool and replace it with a new piece of teak plywood? I got one
of these tools for this type of job, but haven't tried it yet.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 9:15 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi David,
>
> Never saw that before but suspect water leaked through the gap between
> your slider and drop boards.  Some kind of bug may be eating the teak.
> Have you observed any strange mites or spiders in that area?
>
> I'd spray with a good bug spray for insects, cut away any loose stuff,
> treat w Git Rot and cover with a very thin piece of teak trim.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3dKSkPwP2M
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
> On 01/10/2021 11:43 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I discovered last Fall that I had an area of the side paneling near the
> top of the companionway steps where the wood panel is completely rotted
> away.  I had not noticed anything until I noticed the hole.  I don’t think
> water has been leaking through there since I have had the boat, but it is a
> strange place for a leak to cause this and I never noticed any wet areas
> inside the boat.  However it happened, I don’t have any good ideas as to
> how to repair it (if I repair it at all).  Any suggestions as to what to
> do?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Link to photos:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/CzXqxSqMrtpqPF6RA
> 
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rachet block for Harken furler

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Agreed, I don't find it necessary. I have a nice Harken ratchet block that
was given to me, but never bothered to install it, as I just tail the
furling line by hand, sometimes with a bend on a spare winch if it's
breezy, and it works fine. I was waiting to get a second ratchet for the
other furler, but now I will probably not bother. I might add cam cleats
for easier partial furling; although we rarely do that, when things do get
breezy it would be nice to keep things a bit more tidy. With two sets of
foresail sheets and two furling lines, and now a mainsheet moved from
cabintop to blocks on the traveller, the cockpit can get messy in a hurry.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 10:04 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good to know, that will save some boat bucks. The manual states the
> warranty is void if you don’t use a rachet, but that timed out anyway about
> 1988 or so.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, January 4, 2021 12:03 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: rachet block for Harken furler
>
>
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> Happy New Year!
>
> I'm jealous you got out!
>
> No, you don't need a ratchet block,  Most people I know who have them
> don't use the ratchet.
>
>
>
> Joel
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Are we all shopping?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

There are some issues with delivery, as checking the archives shows that I
have received only a fraction of recent messages.
I also received a delivery probe failure from another list (which uses
Listserv) that I am on, so the issue may be wider spread.

Happy Holidays everyone!
⛵

On Thu, Dec 24, 2020, 07:14 Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> For boat stuff!
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Dec 24, 2020 at 9:59 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: test

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Last msg I saw was yesterday re: America's cup. Nothing in spam.

On Wed, Dec 23, 2020, 14:32 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Check your spam folder. I have found many emails from the list there.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Boom tent

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

A common method around here is to use 3/4" or 1" PVC pipe across the boom,
pulled down to the toerail with lines to create a curved surface for a tarp
or canvas to lay over. The nicer ones will have channels sewn into the
fabric to insert the tubing. Very light, cheap, and reasonable easy to
setup, although storage can be an issue depending on how long the tubing
is. I've thought about making something like this to provide more rain
protection, since our bimini stops short of the dodger. We already carry a
Walker Bay sailkit, which is about 8' broken down, and stores in the
quarter berth, so as long as the poles are kept to ~8', it could be stored
in the same place.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 4:44 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 35 MK I. Do you literally mean a boom tent with the boom as a
> high point and the edges tied down to the rails? If you mean something
> like a big sun/rain shield spread out with poles, I have one in my shed.
> It was not custom made for the boat, I think my father got it in the
> 1970s and it is a big rectangle of cloth with two aluminum poles. One
> pole is split and the cover has a velcro slot so it can extent aft past
> the topping lift/halyard on the end of the boom.We actually don't use it
> very often since we got the Bimini. On the plus side it provides a lot
> of shade. On the minus side it takes some time to put up and I would
> NEVER leave it up at anchor with the boat unattended unless there was
> exactly 0% of storms. It is a lot of windage and tends to yank boat boat
> at an angle on the anchor and pop it free assuming it even lasts long
> enough to do that before shredding.
>
> You can see it here
> http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/coq1annapolis.jpg  In this case
> we have it forward of the topping lift.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray