Stus-List Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

All,

 

I was aware that my bolts in my steering assembly below the pedestal were
failing when I noticed a gap on the bow side of the sheave assembly this
summer. After trying to tighten one of the aluminum bolts it crumbled. Had
two remaining good ones in the stern and limped the way through the
remainder of the season. Today loosened the steering cables to start to take
apart the assembly with the intent of fixing in place with new bolts. Having
had a similar but more catastrophic failure on our past 1989 37/40 XL I can
see that the assembly itself is in good shape. My question is the use of the
aluminum bolts. Since that is what failed should I switch to stainless? May
be a good question for Rob Ball but wanted to see what others have used.
Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

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Stus-List Edson Acquired

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Chuck et al,
Yes, good to hear Edison has transferred ownership to those that will 
maintain stewardship and tradition and not to a Gordon Gicco (Wall 
Street) who will slice and dice the company simply for profit .


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S



On 2021-06-02 5:19 p.m., Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:


Chip is a good guy and a life long one design and big boat sailor.  As 
a former Edson employee, I’m very happy the company didn’t get 
purchased by some private equity firm looking to trim the fat and flip 
the company to somebody looking to own a marine company as a hobby job.


Will and his brother Hank never viewed their tenure with Edson as 
ownership.  They preferred to use the term stewardship to keep the 
traditions and history of a very old and diverse company moving 
through to the future.


Wishing Chip and company to continue to innovate and provide the same 
high standards of quality and customer service as his predecessors.


Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA




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Stus-List Edson Acquired

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Oh well, looks like they will be in caring hands.

 

Edson Marine, the New Bedford, Mass.-based manufacturer of marine pumps, 
steering systems and a wide range of accessories has been acquired, the company 
said in a statement 

 , by Chip Johns. 

A one-time owner of Vanguard Sailboats and former member of the Sail America’s 
Board of Directors, Johns’ involvement in the marine industry dates back well 
over three decades. 

“Edson will continue to keep its roots firmly planted in quality, customer 
service and innovation,” Johns said. “[We] have an exceptional team, with an 
unrivaled product line and reputation that we will continue to make even 
better.” 

The company, which was founded in 1859, was acquired from the Keene family — 
the elder Henry and his two sons, Will and Hank, have been with Edson for more 
than 60 years. 

CEO Adam Cove, who joined Edson in 2016, will remain on board. 

“I am excited about the passion and expertise Chip Johns brings to the 
company,” said Cove. “He has all the tools and experience to lead Edson into 
its next chapter.” 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Re: Stus-List Edson Engineering Bulletin Thanks

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

So true!  My transmission used to take a full hand push to move, I was 
sure the transmission was screwed.  New cable, I can move it with a pinky.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-07-07 12:18 p.m., Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks Stu and Chuck.

Chuck speaks the truth about the Morse cables. If they are getting tight, you 
do need to replace them. Nothing else works and in all probability, you will be 
surprised at the improvement. I had owned my 1978 27 for more than 15 years 
when I finally replaced the shifter cable and what a difference! It had always 
been stiff and I thought that it was the transmission. It was not. Just do it.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII, Ontario
C&C36 MKI, Florida

 Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
Here is the link to the Edson Engineering Bulletin:

http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/EB%20236%20ENGINE%20CONTROL%20727%20and%20728.pdf

Enjoy

Stu

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.


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Re: Stus-List Edson Engineering Bulletin

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

 Thank you, this the exact model I have on my 75 !
SylvainC&C27 MkIII

On Tuesday, July 7, 2020, 9:52:35 AM EDT, Stu via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Here is the link to the Edson Engineering Bulletin: 
http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/EB%20236%20ENGINE%20CONTROL%20727%20and%20728.pdf
 Enjoy Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Edson Engineering Bulletin Thanks

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks Stu and Chuck. 

Chuck speaks the truth about the Morse cables. If they are getting tight, you 
do need to replace them. Nothing else works and in all probability, you will be 
surprised at the improvement. I had owned my 1978 27 for more than 15 years 
when I finally replaced the shifter cable and what a difference! It had always 
been stiff and I thought that it was the transmission. It was not. Just do it. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII, Ontario
C&C36 MKI, Florida

 Stu via CnC-List  wrote: 
Here is the link to the Edson Engineering Bulletin:

http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/EB%20236%20ENGINE%20CONTROL%20727%20and%20728.pdf

Enjoy

Stu

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Stus-List Edson Engineering Bulletin

[Stu via CnC-List]

Here is the link to the Edson Engineering Bulletin:

http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/EB%20236%20ENGINE%20CONTROL%20727%20and%20728.pdf

Enjoy

Stu___

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Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[Stu via CnC-List]

I have the engineering bulletin and will post it on the C&C Photo Album site 
later today.  I’ll send out a note with the link.

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

Ditto here, please and thank you!
 
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, mile 584;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 10:48 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

Yes please would love this document 

John ConklinS/V Halcyonwww.flirtingwithfire.net


On Jul 6, 2020, at 2:37 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:



#yiv0126088968 #yiv0126088968 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0126088968 
#yiv0126088968 p.yiv0126088968MsoNormal, #yiv0126088968 
li.yiv0126088968MsoNormal, #yiv0126088968 div.yiv0126088968MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0126088968
 span.yiv0126088968EmailStyle17 
{font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0126088968 
.yiv0126088968MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered 
{}#yiv0126088968 div.yiv0126088968WordSection1 {}#yiv0126088968 Hi Chuck – 
thanks for your offer. Is the bulletin in paper format, PDF, Word .doc or 
something else?  How many pages?  If we can get it into a compatible format 
that the other users can use, it would be great. Let me know and maybe I can 
convert it. Stu From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-ListSent: Monday, July 6, 2020 
2:25 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Stus-List Edson 
engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control Hi Stu, I’ve obtained a copy of 
the Edson engine control engineering bulletin for the pedestal mounted unit 
that appears on many  of our 78-83 vintage C&C’s.  The bulletin no longer 
appears on Edson’s website, but from a service standpoint, it may be useful for 
list members and visitors looking to service the engine controls on the boats.  
Unfortunately, Edson no longer offers replacement parts for this controller, 
but it does have good info on assembly and disassembly  for those wishing to 
replace cables, etc. I  don’t have a file share program otherwise I would post 
a link to the list, but if I could send it to you  for the website for general 
consumption, that would perhaps be better.  Let me know how to get it into your 
hands. Thank you, Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA 
(former Edson guy..) ___

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___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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Re: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[Mike Macdonald via CnC-List]

I would like it as well :)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 10:49 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Yes please would love this document 
> 
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
> 
> 
>> On Jul 6, 2020, at 2:37 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Chuck – thanks for your offer.
>>  
>> Is the bulletin in paper format, PDF, Word .doc or something else?  How many 
>> pages?  If we can get it into a compatible format that the other users can 
>> use, it would be great.
>>  
>> Let me know and maybe I can convert it.
>>  
>> Stu
>>  
>> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 2:25 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
>> Subject: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control
>>  
>> Hi Stu,
>> I’ve obtained a copy of the Edson engine control engineering bulletin for 
>> the pedestal mounted unit that appears on many  of our 78-83 vintage C&C’s.  
>> The bulletin no longer appears on Edson’s website, but from a service 
>> standpoint, it may be useful for list members and visitors looking to 
>> service the engine controls on the boats.  Unfortunately, Edson no longer 
>> offers replacement parts for this controller, but it does have good info on 
>> assembly and disassembly  for those wishing to replace cables, etc.
>> I  don’t have a file share program otherwise I would post a link to the 
>> list, but if I could send it to you  for the website for general 
>> consumption, that would perhaps be better.  Let me know how to get it into 
>> your hands.
>> Thank you,
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 1983 Landfall 35
>> Padanaram, MA
>> (former Edson guy..)
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yes please would love this document

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net<http://www.flirtingwithfire.net>


On Jul 6, 2020, at 2:37 PM, Stu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Chuck – thanks for your offer.

Is the bulletin in paper format, PDF, Word .doc or something else?  How many 
pages?  If we can get it into a compatible format that the other users can use, 
it would be great.

Let me know and maybe I can convert it.

Stu

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 2:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

Hi Stu,
I’ve obtained a copy of the Edson engine control engineering bulletin for the 
pedestal mounted unit that appears on many  of our 78-83 vintage C&C’s.  The 
bulletin no longer appears on Edson’s website, but from a service standpoint, 
it may be useful for list members and visitors looking to service the engine 
controls on the boats.  Unfortunately, Edson no longer offers replacement parts 
for this controller, but it does have good info on assembly and disassembly  
for those wishing to replace cables, etc.
I  don’t have a file share program otherwise I would post a link to the list, 
but if I could send it to you  for the website for general consumption, that 
would perhaps be better.  Let me know how to get it into your hands.
Thank you,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA
(former Edson guy..)


___

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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[Stu via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck – thanks for your offer.

Is the bulletin in paper format, PDF, Word .doc or something else?  How many 
pages?  If we can get it into a compatible format that the other users can use, 
it would be great.

Let me know and maybe I can convert it.

Stu

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 2:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

Hi Stu,

I’ve obtained a copy of the Edson engine control engineering bulletin for the 
pedestal mounted unit that appears on many  of our 78-83 vintage C&C’s.  The 
bulletin no longer appears on Edson’s website, but from a service standpoint, 
it may be useful for list members and visitors looking to service the engine 
controls on the boats.  Unfortunately, Edson no longer offers replacement parts 
for this controller, but it does have good info on assembly and disassembly  
for those wishing to replace cables, etc.

I  don’t have a file share program otherwise I would post a link to the list, 
but if I could send it to you  for the website for general consumption, that 
would perhaps be better.  Let me know how to get it into your hands.

Thank you,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

(former Edson guy..)




___

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Re: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Chuck,

My 1981 controls are getting stiff.   Could you send to me separately.  Thanks!

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chuck Gilchrest via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 2:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

Hi Stu,
I've obtained a copy of the Edson engine control engineering bulletin for the 
pedestal mounted unit that appears on many  of our 78-83 vintage C&C's.  The 
bulletin no longer appears on Edson's website, but from a service standpoint, 
it may be useful for list members and visitors looking to service the engine 
controls on the boats.  Unfortunately, Edson no longer offers replacement parts 
for this controller, but it does have good info on assembly and disassembly  
for those wishing to replace cables, etc.
I  don't have a file share program otherwise I would post a link to the list, 
but if I could send it to you  for the website for general consumption, that 
would perhaps be better.  Let me know how to get it into your hands.
Thank you,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA
(former Edson guy..)
___

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Stus-List Edson engineering bulletin on fig 727 engine control

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Stu,

I've obtained a copy of the Edson engine control engineering bulletin for
the pedestal mounted unit that appears on many  of our 78-83 vintage C&C's.
The bulletin no longer appears on Edson's website, but from a service
standpoint, it may be useful for list members and visitors looking to
service the engine controls on the boats.  Unfortunately, Edson no longer
offers replacement parts for this controller, but it does have good info on
assembly and disassembly  for those wishing to replace cables, etc.

I  don't have a file share program otherwise I would post a link to the
list, but if I could send it to you  for the website for general
consumption, that would perhaps be better.  Let me know how to get it into
your hands.

Thank you,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

(former Edson guy..)

___

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[jhnelson24 via CnC-List]

Key is only to keep wheel from slipping when you turn it. The key can come out 
or stay.  I think mine came off with the wheel and i had a heck of a time 
getting it to stay put when putting wheel back on. But thats my understanding 
of what keys do. Lol.Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: John Conklin  
Date: 2020-04-08  17:04  (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeffrey 
Nelson  Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal 
Wow nice work ! So does the key need to come out to get wheel off? This is only 
to hold wheel in alignmnet not to hold wheel on shaft correct? Would love to 
powder coat the pedestal and old shifter and throttle cables are working but 
quite stiff. 
Just want to get the wheel off so I can fix Auto pilot and head out for some 
solo sailing on the Neuse. The weather and wind is perfect ! 
I continue to distance, (if i ever go out) and obey all rules and local 
restrictions

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net







On Apr 8, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List  
wrote:



Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My wheel 
came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...
but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the whole 
thing re-powder coated when I did mine.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.
On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be sure, just 
use the gear puller.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE



Josh



On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:


She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what shakes out 


Thanks!

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com




On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:




 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and not 
tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is crescent 
shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the trick.  
The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:




 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:






Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.

BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday
 ! 
😊 
 
Thanks! 
 
John Conklin

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Key can stay.  In my case I have to lock the wheels to prevent the shaft
from rotating and "dumping" the key out.  Depending on the circumstances I
may even grab a rubber band to ensure that it doesn't get lost.  If you
want to remove the shaft there are 3 plastic shims which need to be aligned
with their notch top dead center.  Everything else is easy to see and
disassemble.  The 3 shims will not present themselves.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 16:05 John Conklin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Wow nice work ! So does the key need to come out to get wheel off? This is
> only to hold wheel in alignmnet not to hold wheel on shaft correct? Would
> love to powder coat the pedestal and old shifter and throttle cables are
> working but quite stiff.
> Just want to get the wheel off so I can fix Auto pilot and head out for
> some solo sailing on the Neuse. The weather and wind is perfect !
> I continue to distance, (if i ever go out) and obey all rules and local
> restrictions
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
>
>
> On Apr 8, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My
> wheel came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...
> but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.
>
> I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the
> whole thing re-powder coated when I did mine.
>
> Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C&C 30
>Armdale Y.C.
>
> On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be sure,
> just use the gear puller.
>
>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE
>
> Josh
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what
>> shakes out
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> John Conklin
>> S/V Halcyon
>> S/V Heartbeat
>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and
>> not tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is
>> crescent shaped.
>> A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the
>> trick.  The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone
>> to rust.
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> Former Edson employee
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  It is a tapered key.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm
>> ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon
>> Pedestal with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear
>> original for sure.
>>
>> BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but
>> easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like
>> its tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ?
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
>>
>> Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I
>> need to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t
>> want to damage threads , or wheel for sure!
>>
>> Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least
>> that’s my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or
>> without Auto Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as
>> it was blowing 25+ yesterday ! 😊
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>>
>> John Conklin
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send cont

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Wow nice work ! So does the key need to come out to get wheel off? This is only 
to hold wheel in alignmnet not to hold wheel on shaft correct? Would love to 
powder coat the pedestal and old shifter and throttle cables are working but 
quite stiff.
Just want to get the wheel off so I can fix Auto pilot and head out for some 
solo sailing on the Neuse. The weather and wind is perfect !
I continue to distance, (if i ever go out) and obey all rules and local 
restrictions

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Apr 8, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My wheel 
came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...
but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the whole 
thing re-powder coated when I did mine.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be sure, just 
use the gear puller.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE

Josh

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what shakes out

Thanks!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and not 
tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is crescent 
shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the trick.  
The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.
BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Been a while since I pulled my wheel, but it is a square steel key.  My 
wheel came off relatively easily as I recall.  Maybe I used a gear puller...

but I don't recall it giving me any grief about leaving the shaft.

I replaced bearings, chain cables, built new shift levers and had the 
whole thing re-powder coated when I did mine.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30
   Armdale Y.C.

On 4/7/2020 11:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be 
sure, just use the gear puller.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE

Josh

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see
what shakes out

Thanks!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com 



On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is
square and not tapered. Tapered shafts in later years have a
Woodruff key which is crescent shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should
do the trick.  The issue is the key is made from mild hardened
steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Hi,

Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy
 AutoHelm ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt
/drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal with the control levers (up ,
Down)  on each side which appear original for sure.

BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out
(snug but easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and
sticks there? Almost like its tapered?  You can see in picture
here the Keyway ?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0

Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at
all. Or do I need to just put little more lube and little more
elbow grease? I don’t want to damage threads , or wheel for sure!

Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at
least that’s my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to
do so,with or without Auto Pilot. However, Otto driving into
the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin

___

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contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution
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the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Lube it if you like but you're not gonna break anything.  Wanna be sure,
just use the gear puller.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gear-Puller-Set-3-Jaw-3-Piece-3-4-6/425463688?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101006586&adid=228306191008&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=380193022462&wl4=pla-812009241968&wl5=200511&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=139177874&wl11=online&wl12=425463688&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzczk2ebX6AIVDmyGCh2IEAO8EAQYAiABEgLUd_D_BwE

Josh

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 22:02 John Conklin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what
> shakes out
>
> Thanks!
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and
> not tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is
> crescent shaped.
> A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the
> trick.  The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone
> to rust.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Former Edson employee
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  It is a tapered key.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hi,
>
> Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm
> ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon
> Pedestal with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear
> original for sure.
>
> BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but
> easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like
> its tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ?
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
>
> Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I
> need to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t
> want to damage threads , or wheel for sure!
>
> Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least
> that’s my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or
> without Auto Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as
> it was blowing 25+ yesterday ! 😊
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> John Conklin
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

She’s a 1982 and does look square I will shoot it again and see what shakes out

Thanks!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:52 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and not 
tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is crescent 
shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the trick.  
The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.
BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin
___

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

If the shaft is a 1” straight shaft (pre 2000), the key is square and not 
tapered.  Tapered shafts in later years have a Woodruff key which is crescent 
shaped.
A liberal application of PBlaster, left to sit overnight should do the trick.  
The issue is the key is made from mild hardened steel and is prone to rust.
Chuck Gilchrest
Former Edson employee 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  It is a tapered key.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Hi,
>> Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm 
>> ST4000, and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon 
>> Pedestal with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear 
>> original for sure.
>> BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
>> easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like 
>> its tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
>> Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I 
>> need to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want 
>> to damage threads , or wheel for sure!
>> Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s 
>> my excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
>> Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 
>> 25+ yesterday ! 😊
>>  
>> Thanks!
>>  
>> John Conklin
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It is a tapered key.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:22 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.
BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List Edson Wheel Removal

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Hi,
Silly question here but doing some Maintenance on the crunchy  AutoHelm ST4000, 
and plenty of you tube on fixing that belt /drive.. I have an esdon Pedestal 
with the control levers (up , Down)  on each side which appear original for 
sure.
BUT the Silly Edson Wheel! after nut removal,  wheel slides out (snug but 
easily) to a certain point just past spokes, and sticks there?  Almost like its 
tapered?  You can see in picture here the Keyway ? 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ust0nvmoxir3yh2/wheel2.jpg?dl=0
Does this key need to be removed/loosened. Its not loose at all. Or do I need 
to just put little more lube and little more elbow grease? I don’t want to 
damage threads , or wheel for sure!
Need to fix this for some Solo sailing on Halcyon this week, at least that’s my 
excuse. We are allowed to sail and I intend to do so,with or without Auto 
Pilot. However, Otto driving into the wind would be nice, as it was blowing 25+ 
yesterday ! 😊

Thanks!

John Conklin
___

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Re: Stus-List edson chain lubricant

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Wouldn’t condensation or high humidity in stern lockers require a wet lube? For 
selection type in mountain biking, it is made based on conditions. Desert NM 
compared to CO high country.

Bill Dakin

> On Mar 9, 2020, at 12:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> While I understand and appreciate Edson's dry lube, you might research dry 
> bicycle/motorcycle chain lubricants for comparison.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 

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Re: Stus-List edson chain lubricant

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

While I understand and appreciate Edson's dry lube, you might research dry
bicycle/motorcycle chain lubricants for comparison.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Mar 9, 2020 at 8:11 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am wondering what others use as lubricant on the chain drive of Edson
> pedestals.  The manual says motor oil, but Edson has a new spray product I
> saw in Sail magazine. I also thought about Boeshield as possible.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List edson chain lubricant

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

It was carefully engineered after we explained the use and environment  . . . . 
.

You can see it here  . . . .


https://edsonmarine.com/chain-care/​


Cheers,

Rob Ball
Chief Design Engineer
[https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-a3x5y9g98l/product_images/uploaded_images/edson-email-signeture-logo-v3.png]
Tel: (508) 995-9711
Email: r...@edsonintl.com<mailto:r...@edsonintl.com>
www.edsonmarine.com<http://www.edsonmarine.com/>

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Monday, March 9, 2020 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List edson chain lubricant

Call Edson.  They have great customer support.  (Not just because Rob is there)

Joel

On Mon, Mar 9, 2020 at 11:34 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
IIRC edson prescribes very minimal lube on the chain since anything excessive 
has the potential to contaminate the brake pads.  A dry lube that can be 
applied with a small dropper, brush, or syringe is preferable.

White lithium grease in the holes on top of the 2 different (front and back) 
roller bearings is more important for preventing wear but exercising caution 
and conservatism is still important.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Mar 9, 2020, 09:11 David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am wondering what others use as lubricant on the chain drive of Edson 
pedestals.  The manual says motor oil, but Edson has a new spray product I saw 
in Sail magazine. I also thought about Boeshield as possible.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


--
Joel
___

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Re: Stus-List edson chain lubricant

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Call Edson.  They have great customer support.  (Not just because Rob is
there)

Joel

On Mon, Mar 9, 2020 at 11:34 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> IIRC edson prescribes very minimal lube on the chain since anything
> excessive has the potential to contaminate the brake pads.  A dry lube that
> can be applied with a small dropper, brush, or syringe is preferable.
>
> White lithium grease in the holes on top of the 2 different (front and
> back) roller bearings is more important for preventing wear but exercising
> caution and conservatism is still important.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mon, Mar 9, 2020, 09:11 David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am wondering what others use as lubricant on the chain drive of Edson
>> pedestals.  The manual says motor oil, but Edson has a new spray product I
>> saw in Sail magazine. I also thought about Boeshield as possible.  Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List edson chain lubricant

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

IIRC edson prescribes very minimal lube on the chain since anything
excessive has the potential to contaminate the brake pads.  A dry lube that
can be applied with a small dropper, brush, or syringe is preferable.

White lithium grease in the holes on top of the 2 different (front and
back) roller bearings is more important for preventing wear but exercising
caution and conservatism is still important.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Mar 9, 2020, 09:11 David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I am wondering what others use as lubricant on the chain drive of Edson
> pedestals.  The manual says motor oil, but Edson has a new spray product I
> saw in Sail magazine. I also thought about Boeshield as possible.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List edson chain lubricant

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am wondering what others use as lubricant on the chain drive of Edson 
pedestals.  The manual says motor oil, but Edson has a new spray product I saw 
in Sail magazine. I also thought about Boeshield as possible.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal and Quadrant Lubrication

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Everything you need, lubrication, cable tension, etc., is here:

https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf

Dennis C.

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 10:05 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> CNC Listers,
>
> That is excellent advice for adjusting the quadrant cables. Very
> appreciated.
>
> A followup question:
>
> What are the guidlines for lubricating the Edson pedestal and cables?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Al H.
> Pacific Ranger
> C&C 35 Mk3
> Vancouver, BC.
>
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: April 19, 2019 2:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 159, Issue 85
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Edson Pedestal and Quadrant Lubrication

[Allan Hester via CnC-List]

CNC Listers,

That is excellent advice for adjusting the quadrant cables. Very appreciated. 

A followup question:

What are the guidlines for lubricating the Edson pedestal and cables?

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver, BC.
   

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com]
Sent: April 19, 2019 2:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 159, Issue 85

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Did this job in 2015.  Edson offered only the cast aluminum idler plate.  Its better than the OEM, but raises the pedestal somewhat.  Expect to make a trim ring from 3/4 stock; starboard or foamboard.  I offered my templates to Edson, but they were mute.  Another option mentioned by Francois, contact Garhauer to make a new one in SS.  I never did that cause I found a way to make the Edson one work. My unit has the original bronze sheaves, SS towers, aluminum base, SS cable going round an aluminum radial sheave.On July 5, 2018 at 3:38 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List  wrote:  Richard,    My 37+ has an Edson 776-4AL which has a stamped steel plate with aluminum sheaves.  It cost me $303 in 2014.  This part is no longer listed on the Edson website.  The plate which is about 1/8” thick and is sandwiched between the bottom of the pedestal and fiberglass on the cockpit floor.  The newer 776AL-4AL has an aluminum plate with aluminum sheaves.  The plate is about half an inch thick so when sandwiched as the original steel plate, the pedestal will sit about 3/8” higher and probably show a gap.       The original steel plate would have worked had the location been in a dry area below the pedestal.  C&C should have used a stainless steel or aluminum plate in the 37+/40 application.  There may be similar issues on other boats.  Maybe Edson knows which C&C’s used the 776-4AL in an exposed area.  There may be a demand for an identical replacement using a more suitable plate material.  When I got my 776-4AL, the Edson person who helped me said they could water cut new plates as the original dies were probably gone.  Edson had files on the 37+ and I do remember the person at the counter hollering back to one of the offices, “Hey Rob, we have one of your boats”.  Magically, a file folder with details of the 37+ appeared.    Edson is really a first class outfit and I’m sure if a few list members contacted them, they’d offer a solution.    Ron    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:18 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: bushma...@aol.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate  Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks    Richard s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon) Richard N. Bush  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255       -Original Message-From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Ron Ricci Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 amSubject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate Bruce, I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.   Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement.  This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  Regards,RonRon RicciS/V PatriotC&C 37+Bristol, RIron.ri...@1968.usna.comFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PMTo: C&C ListCc: Bruce WhitmoreSubject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate  Hello all, I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.   One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see them here:     https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0    It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler pulleys mount securely.     Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables (until I can replace the plate entirely)?     Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:   a).  Remove the compass, disco

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

My 37+ has an Edson 776-4AL which has a stamped steel plate with aluminum 
sheaves.  It cost me $303 in 2014.  This part is no longer listed on the Edson 
website.  The plate which is about 1/8” thick and is sandwiched between the 
bottom of the pedestal and fiberglass on the cockpit floor.  The newer 
776AL-4AL has an aluminum plate with aluminum sheaves.  The plate is about half 
an inch thick so when sandwiched as the original steel plate, the pedestal will 
sit about 3/8” higher and probably show a gap.   

 

The original steel plate would have worked had the location been in a dry area 
below the pedestal.  C&C should have used a stainless steel or aluminum plate 
in the 37+/40 application.  There may be similar issues on other boats.  Maybe 
Edson knows which C&C’s used the 776-4AL in an exposed area.  There may be a 
demand for an identical replacement using a more suitable plate material.  When 
I got my 776-4AL, the Edson person who helped me said they could water cut new 
plates as the original dies were probably gone.  Edson had files on the 37+ and 
I do remember the person at the counter hollering back to one of the offices, 
“Hey Rob, we have one of your boats”.  Magically, a file folder with details of 
the 37+ appeared.

 

Edson is really a first class outfit and I’m sure if a few list members 
contacted them, they’d offer a solution.

 

Ron 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe 
all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks

 

Richard

s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

Bruce,

 

I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  

 

Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 

 

This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com?> ] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  

 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0

 

It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  

 

Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  

 

Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:

 

a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire

b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail

c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly

d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0

f). 

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

On my boat, Chamamé, she just received a complete overhaul of the Edson
#334 pedestal, #727 engine controls, #776 idler plate with cable
replacement in May. Like Bruce, I am sailing locally but plan venture into
the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean.

Bruce, your steps appear in order and the job is not difficult except for
limited access. Mine was out in about two hours but the shop work seemed to
take forever and reassembly took all of an afternoon. I seem to have to put
things together about three times before I get it exactly right for the
final assembly. Please don't hesitate to call me and talk it through.

My idler plate appeared in much better condition than Bruce's but upon
removal and closer inspection I found that a stainless grommet, that makes
the pivot point and attaches the wheel assembly to the plate, had cracked
about halfway around it's circumference. Left unchecked this likely would
have resulted in a ugly failure before the next inspection. Edson balked at
repairing the assembly, saying that they have never seen one returned in
serviceable condition. I sent a photo that showed that it was
otherwise fine condition and they said OK to return it for assessment.

I attribute it's life to an excellent sealing job at the deck, preventing
salt water from leaking onto the plate from above.

The assembly was returned to Edson for repair and they replaced the grommet
for a reasonable price. Although IMO the plate is an inferior design due to
it's vulnerability to corrosion, I felt that if properly installed and
sealed it would provide reliable service if inspected occasionally. I
coated it with a Corroseal, a product similar to Ospho, and used copious
amounts of plumber's putty to seal the pedestal at the deck joint. This
approach probably saved about $350 over the cost of replacing it with the
redesigned assembly.

The wire rope assemblies were fabricated locally in St. Petersburg, FL by
SSMR, Inc. who I can recommend without hesitation. The replacements were
exact duplicates of what was removed and the price was under $100.

Due to aforementioned references to loss of steering I also chose to
reroute all cables through the pedestal guard tubes to eliminate the
possibility of fouling the sprocket and chain. Two boats in our club
recently collided after steering failure, ending the season early for them
both, ​​so I was especially sensitive to that.

Hope this helps. Comments welcomed.

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36 #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

​
 20180204_181613.jpg
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FpGsBXuzFcwn-SGSz4C0qbpI_lGO5YEH/view?usp=drive_web>
​​
 20180204_181555.jpg
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1369Fus8J_30TOUGHLV_yTHU4iEwjjhQ2/view?usp=drive_web>
​​
 20180204_181619.jpg
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/14xOsK1c9J2Y6RU_2BAs8_fOeqVf_nxy3/view?usp=drive_web>
​

On Thu, Jul 5, 2018 at 9:18 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do
> believe all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ron Ricci 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
>
> Bruce,
>
> I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system
> several years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and
> the steering cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to
> last plate Edson had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.
>
> Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new
> ones as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think
> that it like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement.
>
> This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.
> Regards,
> *Ron*
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Whitmore via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to
> stern to make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable
> that we've addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will
> want to do some Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.
>
>
> One of the issues I saw bro

Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

You don't want the Edson idler plate anyway because they are made out of
mild steel which is not suited for the application and why they corrode
into oblivion. (We have the same issues on the 34+ , 34/36, 36+, and 34R
variants

If your's is still decent you can send it to Garhauer
https://www.garhauerstore.com  they'll make you a better out of stainless
steel for less money.

Ask Chuck for details, I believe he had his done there.

Best Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I do not believe it is solely limited to the 37/40+, and in fact have seen 
other posts about people losing steering in races & offshore passages due to 
failure of the plate due to rust. 

Per Edson's website, they are running about $400 - $450.Hope this helps, Bruce 
Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
 Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:19 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
   
 Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe 
all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks
 
Richards/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)

Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

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.yiv1815358118aolReplacedBody div.yiv1815358118aolmail_WordSection1 {}Bruce, I 
replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.   Edson told me that when 
the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones as the dies were no 
longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it like many others on 
37+/40’s will need replacement.  This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners 
to inspect their plates.  Regards,RonRon RicciS/V PatriotC&C 37+Bristol, 
riron.ri...@1968.usna.com     From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate Hello all, I have a 1994 C&C 
37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to make sure that I 
understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've addressed the 
major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some Caribbean 
cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  

 One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  



https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0



It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  



Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  



Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:

a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire

b).  Remove plate that serves to att

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe 
all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks

 


Richard
s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate



Bruce,
 
I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  
 
Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 
 
This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  
Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
 
   
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  



 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  







https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0



https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0



https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0







It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  







Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  







Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:





a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire



b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail



c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly



d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0



f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & wires through & label fish 
lines accordingly

g).  Remove idler pulleys, disassemble, check & grease

h).  Remove & replace plate, hopefully with Edson supplied version, if not have 
one machined from aluminum locally

i).   Reassemble







I understand that some folks have ordered replacement plates only to find them 
to not be an exact fit (thus the comment about having one machined locally).  
Can anyone confirm or deny this?  







Given what you can see, how emergent is this repair? 







Thanks for all your input!






Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+

"Astralis"

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  

 

Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 

 

This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  



 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  







 
<https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0>
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0



 
<https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0>
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0



 
<https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0>
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0







It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  







Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  







Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:





a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire



b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail



c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly



d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:   
<https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0> 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0



f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & wires through & label fish 
lines accordingly

g).  Remove idler pulleys, disassemble, check & grease

h).  Remove & replace plate, hopefully with Edson supplied version, if not have 
one machined from aluminum locally

i).   Reassemble







I understand that some folks have ordered replacement plates only to find them 
to not be an exact fit (thus the comment about having one machined locally).  
Can anyone confirm or deny this?  







Given what you can see, how emergent is this repair? 







Thanks for all your input!





Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+

"Astralis"

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/11/replacing-steering-cross-wire-idlers.html?m=1

On Wed, Jul 4, 2018, 3:19 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to
> stern to make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable
> that we've addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will
> want to do some Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.
>
> One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and
> rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple
> fine meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very
> near future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and
> I slid my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.
> You can see them here:
>
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0
>
> It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the
> idler pulleys mount securely.
>
> Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change
> out the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in
> place with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out
> the cables (until I can replace the plate entirely)?
>
> Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:
>
> a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to
> the wire
> b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail
> c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines
> to aid in reassembly
> d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables
> e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0
> f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & wires through & label
> fish lines accordingly
> g).  Remove idler pulleys, disassemble, check & grease
> h).  Remove & replace plate, hopefully with Edson supplied version, if not
> have one machined from aluminum locally
> i).   Reassemble
>
> I understand that some folks have ordered replacement plates only to find
> them to not be an exact fit (thus the comment about having one machined
> locally).  Can anyone confirm or deny this?
>
> Given what you can see, how emergent is this repair?
>
> Thanks for all your input!
>
> Bruce C. Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0

It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  

Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  

Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:
a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire
b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail
c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly
d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cablese).  Remove 
steering pedestal bolts - see here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0
f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & wires through & label fish 
lines accordinglyg).  Remove idler pulleys, disassemble, check & greaseh).  
Remove & replace plate, hopefully with Edson supplied version, if not have one 
machined from aluminum locallyi).   Reassemble

I understand that some folks have ordered replacement plates only to find them 
to not be an exact fit (thus the comment about having one machined locally).  
Can anyone confirm or deny this?  

Given what you can see, how emergent is this repair? 

Thanks for all your input!
Bruce C. Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

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Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

[robert via CnC-List]

Chuck

Thank you for your prompt and informative response..and the 
websitethe tech bulletin(s) I was trying to access were not available.


From one of the diagrams on the website you provided, it appears the 
'tension control adjuster' could possibly be under the compass. Going to 
the boat this p.m. and will remove the compass and investigate.


Getting the clamp on the throttle cable adjusted in a PITA.mine is 
located in the engine compartmentenough said.


Not sure I am brave enough to do the 'drill and tap' alternate 
solutionif there is no 'tension control adjuster' I might just live 
with the clamp on the throttle cable and a small bungee cor/d I 
sometimes use to hold the throttle in place.


Regards

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S./

On 2018-05-30 11:44 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:

Howdy Rob,
Early versions of the 870 engine control didn't have the throttle tensioning screw 
located on the starboard aluminum "boss" on the control casting.  The common 
option to reduce the effect of the throttle return spring was to install a cable clamp 
around the throttle cable with just enough tightness to create friction and keep the 
throttle from closing.  My Landfall 35 has a different control (model 737) than yours but 
has the same clamp arrangement. Getting the right setting is a bit of a trial and error 
arrangement and will vary with cable wear.

As an alternate solution, you can drill and tap the casting to accept a 1/4"x 
3/4" 20 tpi thread bolt or screw and bear down slightly  on the plastic collar 
through which the throttle lever runs on the control.  Its not a bad idea to replace the 
white plastic collar when you do that.   Keep in mind that you can adjust or remove a 
clamp mounted externally from the pedestal if it is located in an easily accessible spot, 
but having the adjustment inside the pedestal requires removing the compass to make 
adjustments over time.  (More work, yes, but it is also an excuse to lubricate the 
pedestal wheel shaft bearings and run some 30 weight oil over the steering chain with a 
rag and check for broken or worn teeth on the sprocket, you know, the annual steering 
inspection and service that virtually nobody ever does...)

I also know that Edson recently revamped their website and their tech bulletins 
weren't available online for a while.  They're up and running now and the one 
you need to reference is here:
https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB396EngineControlInstr.pdf
Hope this helps... give a shout offline in case you need more info.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

I am pretty sure my boat has the Edson #870 pedestalSS throttle on the 
starboard side, SS gear shifter on the port side.  I have been searching 
the Edson Marine website to learn about the 'throttle tensioning screw/bolt' 
but have had no success accessing any information on it..specifically, 
where exactly is it located and how do adjust the tension on the cable so that 
the engine holds an RPM.

My throttle currently has a 'clamp' on the cable that can be tensioned however 
if there is a better way to properly tension the throttle cable, I would like 
to experiment with that.

Chuck Gilchrist, I suspect you might have specific knowledge of this. if 
you read this, your input would be greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.


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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Howdy Rob,
Early versions of the 870 engine control didn't have the throttle tensioning 
screw located on the starboard aluminum "boss" on the control casting.  The 
common option to reduce the effect of the throttle return spring was to install 
a cable clamp around the throttle cable with just enough tightness to create 
friction and keep the throttle from closing.  My Landfall 35 has a different 
control (model 737) than yours but has the same clamp arrangement. Getting the 
right setting is a bit of a trial and error arrangement and will vary with 
cable wear.

As an alternate solution, you can drill and tap the casting to accept a 1/4"x 
3/4" 20 tpi thread bolt or screw and bear down slightly  on the plastic collar 
through which the throttle lever runs on the control.  Its not a bad idea to 
replace the white plastic collar when you do that.   Keep in mind that you can 
adjust or remove a clamp mounted externally from the pedestal if it is located 
in an easily accessible spot, but having the adjustment inside the pedestal 
requires removing the compass to make adjustments over time.  (More work, yes, 
but it is also an excuse to lubricate the pedestal wheel shaft bearings and run 
some 30 weight oil over the steering chain with a rag and check for broken or 
worn teeth on the sprocket, you know, the annual steering inspection and 
service that virtually nobody ever does...)

I also know that Edson recently revamped their website and their tech bulletins 
weren't available online for a while.  They're up and running now and the one 
you need to reference is here:
https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB396EngineControlInstr.pdf
Hope this helps... give a shout offline in case you need more info.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

I am pretty sure my boat has the Edson #870 pedestalSS throttle on the 
starboard side, SS gear shifter on the port side.  I have been searching 
the Edson Marine website to learn about the 'throttle tensioning screw/bolt' 
but have had no success accessing any information on it..specifically, 
where exactly is it located and how do adjust the tension on the cable so that 
the engine holds an RPM.

My throttle currently has a 'clamp' on the cable that can be tensioned however 
if there is a better way to properly tension the throttle cable, I would like 
to experiment with that.

Chuck Gilchrist, I suspect you might have specific knowledge of this. if 
you read this, your input would be greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

[robert via CnC-List]

I am pretty sure my boat has the Edson #870 pedestalSS throttle on 
the starboard side, SS gear shifter on the port side.      I have been 
searching the Edson Marine website to learn about the 'throttle 
tensioning screw/bolt' but have had no success accessing any information 
on it..specifically, where exactly is it located and how do adjust 
the tension on the cable so that the engine holds an RPM.


My throttle currently has a 'clamp' on the cable that can be tensioned 
however if there is a better way to properly tension the throttle cable, 
I would like to experiment with that.


Chuck Gilchrist, I suspect you might have specific knowledge of 
this. if you read this, your input would be greatly appreciated.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Edson wheel

[colin binkley via CnC-List]

Similar concern for me in the past. Found an idler had come loose from its 
fastening. Have mate turn wheel as you closely observe all of the system. Mine 
is center cockpit, 

Colin
Lindsey Layne 40C #3
Sent from my iPhone

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

That even makes sense from a logical perspective.  The knot does not line up 
vertically with the keyway in the wheel & center hub.  So, if one has it lined 
up on one side, and then you take the wheel off and install it from the other 
direction, viola!  It's way off!
Ugh.  And to think I'd be taking all apart thinking I had a major issue - How 
long would I have been chasing that gremlin?  :0

Now to verify the symptoms... 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 6:35 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
Whoa!  That might be it!
Not someone messing with me - I've been having the teak refinished, and the 
wheel had been removed for that work and was laying on the cabin top.  So, I 
could have easily put it on the "wrong" side out.
If that's it, I can breath much easier!
That could also account for the first time it was "off" after initial 
adjustment...

I'll still need to check for rust on the plate, but that gives me immediate 
breathing room.
If you're right, I owe another $50 to Stu! Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 5:00 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
  
If I take the wheel off and rotate it 180 degrees, does that create the same 
deviation?  I routinely change between my 32 inch (cruising) and 36 inch 
(racing) wheels.  If I don't put the wheel on with the correct side forward, it 
is always off a spoke or so. 
Could someone be messing with you?
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Jan 24, 2018 12:40 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:

The turks head wraps across a spoke, so no, it can't be moved.  

good thought though
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:35 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
Any chance that the Turks Head is moving?    ..  or that someone is not moving 
it just for fun?    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com]On 
Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    And weirdly, the 
steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it happens when 
we're OFF the boat!    On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the 
wheel just in case there is more current than the wheel brake can control.  
This is done to keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel 
brake wear. Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the 
rudder touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch 
during low tides.  Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.    Maybe the boat 
settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder against the line 
ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain to jump?  I have 
not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit the rudder stop.    
The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...    Any 
further thoughts would be appreciated.   Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net    From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    I can pretty much 
assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is why the problem comes 
and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The detrimental rust would also 
likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be quite 
perceptible.    Josh          On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List"  wrote: Per Chuck's previous comments, the 
radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip.  Similarly, 
the helm wheel has a keyway and key.  I've tightened the idler pully plate 
bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full 
disassembly.    Sigh...    Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net    From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    If the radial wheel 
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

  
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 201

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Whoa!  That might be it!
Not someone messing with me - I've been having the teak refinished, and the 
wheel had been removed for that work and was laying on the cabin top.  So, I 
could have easily put it on the "wrong" side out.
If that's it, I can breath much easier!
That could also account for the first time it was "off" after initial 
adjustment...

I'll still need to check for rust on the plate, but that gives me immediate 
breathing room.
If you're right, I owe another $50 to Stu! Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 5:00 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
If I take the wheel off and rotate it 180 degrees, does that create the same 
deviation?  I routinely change between my 32 inch (cruising) and 36 inch 
(racing) wheels.  If I don't put the wheel on with the correct side forward, it 
is always off a spoke or so. 
Could someone be messing with you?
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Jan 24, 2018 12:40 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:

The turks head wraps across a spoke, so no, it can't be moved.  

good thought though
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:35 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
Any chance that the Turks Head is moving?    ..  or that someone is not moving 
it just for fun?    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com]On 
Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    And weirdly, the 
steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it happens when 
we're OFF the boat!    On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the 
wheel just in case there is more current than the wheel brake can control.  
This is done to keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel 
brake wear. Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the 
rudder touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch 
during low tides.  Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.    Maybe the boat 
settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder against the line 
ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain to jump?  I have 
not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit the rudder stop.    
The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...    Any 
further thoughts would be appreciated.   Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net    From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    I can pretty much 
assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is why the problem comes 
and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The detrimental rust would also 
likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be quite 
perceptible.    Josh          On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List"  wrote: Per Chuck's previous comments, the 
radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip.  Similarly, 
the helm wheel has a keyway and key.  I've tightened the idler pully plate 
bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full 
disassembly.    Sigh...    Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net    From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    If the radial wheel 
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

  
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore 

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket. 
All was well for a couple weeks, and behol

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The sprocket pin ain’t coming out without a drift and a big hammer.  It just 
won’t happen.  And if it was partially sticking out, the wheel won’t turn.
Chuck G.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 24, 2018, at 4:50 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Since you are checking everything, check the tapered pin that holds the 
> sprocket to the  pedestal shaft.
>  
> Doug Allardyce 
> ~_/)~
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jeffrey 
> Nelson via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 4:21 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jeffrey Nelson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
> 
> Do you know any really good practical jokers?
> 
> I can't imagine a possible way for the chain to jump off the socket and the 
> key's unless they somehow broke would prohibit slipping elsewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On 1/23/2018 9:54 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hello all, 
>> 
>> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
>> 
>> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
>> wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
>> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way, were 
>> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After installing my 
>> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
>> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
>> bolts through the radial drive wheel.  This required jumping the chain 1 or 
>> 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
>> 
>> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
>> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these 
>> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
>> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce 
>> the feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out 
>> sailing. 
>> 
>> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
>> little loose, and tightened those.  
>> 
>> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
>> cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
>> the sprocket.
>> 
>> Thoughts?
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
>> Madiera Beach, FL
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cheers,
> Jeff Nelson
> Muir Caileag
> C&C 30
> Armdale Y.C.
> Halifax
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If I take the wheel off and rotate it 180 degrees, does that create the
same deviation?  I routinely change between my 32 inch (cruising) and 36
inch (racing) wheels.  If I don't put the wheel on with the correct side
forward, it is always off a spoke or so.

Could someone be messing with you?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Jan 24, 2018 12:40 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

The turks head wraps across a spoke, so no, it can't be moved.

good thought though
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


--
*From:* "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
*To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
*Cc:* "Hoyt, Mike" 
*Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:35 PM

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

Any chance that the Turks Head is moving?

..  or that someone is not moving it just for fun?

*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
Whitmore via CnC-List
*Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

And weirdly, the steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and
it happens when we're OFF the boat!

On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the wheel just in case
there is more current than the wheel brake can control.  This is done to
keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel brake wear.
Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the rudder
touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch during
low tides.  Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.

Maybe the boat settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder
against the line ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the
chain to jump?  I have not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes
when I hit the rudder stop.

The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...

Any further thoughts would be appreciated.

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

--
*From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
*To:* C&C List 
*Cc:* Josh Muckley 
*Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

I can pretty much assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is
why the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The
detrimental rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and
cables which would be quite perceptible.

Josh



On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I
don't think it can slip.  Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key.
I've tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust
going on under there, which will mean a full disassembly.

Sigh...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

--
*From:* Michael Brown via CnC-List 
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Michael Brown 
*Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that
issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore 

Hello all,

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when
the wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and
came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way,
were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After
installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables
set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the
adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the
chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only
to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to
be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to
reduce the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're
out sailing.

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a
little loose, and tightened those.?

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and
the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow
jumping on th

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Boat_SigSince you are checking everything, check the tapered pin that holds the 
sprocket to the pedestal shaft.

Doug Allardyce 
~_/)~ 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jeffrey 
Nelson via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 4:21 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Jeffrey Nelson
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?


  Do you know any really good practical jokers?

  I can't imagine a possible way for the chain to jump off the socket and the 
key's unless they somehow broke would prohibit slipping elsewhere.






  On 1/23/2018 9:54 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all, 



OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...


I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when 
the wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way, were 
talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After installing my 
autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
bolts through the radial drive wheel.  This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 
notches on the wheel sprocket.


All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only 
to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 



During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.  



Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and 
the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping 
on the sprocket.


Thoughts?

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




  -- 
  Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30
  Armdale Y.C.
  Halifax


   Virus-free. www.avast.com  
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Thats funny!  I was thinking the exact same thing!


On 1/24/2018 4:20 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:


Do you know any really good practical jokers?

I can't imagine a possible way for the chain to jump off the socket 
and the key's unless they somehow broke would prohibit slipping elsewhere.






___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Do you know any really good practical jokers?

I can't imagine a possible way for the chain to jump off the socket and 
the key's unless they somehow broke would prohibit slipping elsewhere.




On 1/23/2018 9:54 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...

I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up 
when the wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks 
ago, and came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to 
port.  By the way, were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of 
rudder.   After installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this 
time getting the cables set to approximately the same amount of 
adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel. This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the 
wheel sprocket.


All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back 
only to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  
During these adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable 
deflection adjusted to be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), 
without getting so tight as to reduce the feel of the wheel.  I've 
notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing.


During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts 
were a little loose, and tightened those.


Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, 
and the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is 
somehow jumping on the sprocket.


Thoughts?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax


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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

A friend of mine who owns a Niagra 35 had his chain slip off the sprocket
while he was at a mooring during windy and rough conditions.  I asked him if
he had locked down his steering wheel;  he had not. If you have too much
slack in your cables and your rudder is flopping about, you could jump a cog
or two.

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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

There should be no play at the radial drive.  If the radial is installed 
properly (bored .003” undersized), when it is tightened in place it should not 
move.  The key only serves as a secondary fixture to prevent the drive from 
turning on the post if the interference clamping is damaged.  The key should 
also be stainless for strength and to mitigate corrosion.  Brass or bronze keys 
are soft and not appropriate.
It is possible to damage a rudder stop or bend a radial through an accident or 
misuse, but that would not effect the centering of the wheel.  Only the 
position of the chain on the sprocket can do that.
Damaging a rudder stop may allow the chain to become derailed from the sprocket 
at the chain to wire joint if the chain runs off the end of the sprocket.  
Pulling it back the other direction could result in a misalignment if the chain.

For what it’s worth, jumping one tooth on a 13tooth sprocket will result in a 
20 degree wheel offset...
Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 24, 2018, at 2:33 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> True, though note that very little play at the radial wheel keyway is 
> required.
> If your rudder swings 80 degrees and that takes 3 turns lock to lock ( no 
> idea, just an example ),
> then 1 degree on the rudder is 13.5 degrees on the wheel. If your rudder post 
> is 2.5" diameter then
> 1 degree is less than 1/32" of play.
> 
> Other than taking everything apart on Windburn I have only looked at two 
> other drives
> systems. Both had been damaged and had some play in them. On one it was
> a similar observation, the center mark on the wheel was no longer straight 
> ahead. My guess
> is while in full reverse the wheel was let go and slammed over against the 
> stop hard
> enough to shift the radial on the shaft. The key was brass or bronze and was 
> damaged.
> On the other one the keyways were not the same size, maybe out by 0.02" or so.
> 
> It is not always easy to get in and make good measurements.
> 
> That allowed the radial to move, polished the fit a bit and the drive system 
> slipped
> down enough to cause alignment problems.
> 
> I take it from your advise that everything was engineered to be a very tight 
> or interference
> fit. The ones I looked at were not but I couldn't tell by hand. Still, 20 
> degrees is a lot.
> 
> 
> I did take the plate and idlers off of Windburn, had them sandblasted and 
> coated them
> with POR-15. Came up as hard as rock and looks to be a good solution for 
> rusting steel.
> 
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: "Chuck Gilchrest"  
> 
> Michael, 
> 
> A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
> no explanation.  I suspect Bruce?s boat has a 44? diameter wheel which means 
> at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk?s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ?? 
> to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel 
> that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel. 
> 
> Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft 
> by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized 
> by .003? for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the 
> radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in 
> place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
> rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won?t slip on 
> the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel. 
> 
> I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
> after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
> various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
> handling suffers when this happens.. 
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> 
> Half Magic 
> 
> 1983 Landfall 35 
> 
> Padanaram, MA 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The 4 pedestal bolts at the base are embedded into the fiberglass.  I have
not seen any nuts on the back side nor have I needed to supply any
resistance from underneath.  Just use your socket wrench to remove the
bolts.  The idler plate is sandwiched between the pedestal and the deck.
The deck was even custom molded with recesses to accommodate the plate.

The bolts are supposed to be aluminum to help minimize galvanic corrosion
on the pedestal.  I took it a step further and made aluminum washers to
prevent marring where the bolt head interfaces with the pedestal.  I also
used nylon washers to provide galvanic isolation between the idler plate,
the pedestal, and the bolts.  I forget what the torque spec is but be
careful since they are aluminum.

Before you disassemble too much you might gain some useful information be
using an inspection mirror or camera to view under the pedestal.  You can
reach in and feel around pretty good too.

Josh



On Wed, Jan 24, 2018, 2:37 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have had the pedestal partially apart, in that I replaced the brake pads
> and lubed the chain.  I also got it far enough apart to jump the chain
> links for the purposes of realigning the wheel.  I have not taken the chain
> off entirely.  If, in fact the bolts thread into a deck fitting rather than
> having to work with nuts on the backside, that would make things MUCH
> easier.
>
> Interestingly, there was some commentary about how there were "wheels"
> replaced in the steering system before I bought the boat, but that was not
> documented, so I kind of disregarded it at the time.  I'd sure like it if I
> didn't have to deal with parts that are no longer manufactured!
>
> Any available documentation about the process on my particular boat would
> be extremely helpful!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Sometimes the most obvious answer is the answer.  Given that you were working 
with the chain to realign the wheel, I suggest looking at all the components 
that may have been affected during this work as a starting point.

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

I have had the pedestal partially apart, in that I replaced the brake pads and 
lubed the chain.  I also got it far enough apart to jump the chain links for 
the purposes of realigning the wheel.  I have not taken the chain off entirely. 
 If, in fact the bolts thread into a deck fitting rather than having to work 
with nuts on the backside, that would make things MUCH easier.

Interestingly, there was some commentary about how there were "wheels" replaced 
in the steering system before I bought the boat, but that was not documented, 
so I kind of disregarded it at the time.  I'd sure like it if I didn't have to 
deal with parts that are no longer manufactured!

Any available documentation about the process on my particular boat would be 
extremely helpful!


Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net













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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

The turks head wraps across a spoke, so no, it can't be moved.  

good thought though
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:35 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
#yiv4571028736 #yiv4571028736 -- _filtered #yiv4571028736 
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p.yiv4571028736MsoAcetate, #yiv4571028736 li.yiv4571028736MsoAcetate, 
#yiv4571028736 div.yiv4571028736MsoAcetate 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv4571028736 
span.yiv4571028736EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv4571028736 
span.yiv4571028736BalloonTextChar {}#yiv4571028736 .yiv4571028736MsoChpDefault 
{font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv4571028736 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in;}#yiv4571028736 div.yiv4571028736WordSection1 {}#yiv4571028736 Any chance 
that the Turks Head is moving?    ..  or that someone is not moving it just for 
fun?    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    And weirdly, the 
steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it happens when 
we're OFF the boat!    On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the 
wheel just in case there is more current than the wheel brake can control.  
This is done to keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel 
brake wear. Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the 
rudder touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch 
during low tides.  Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.    Maybe the boat 
settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder against the line 
ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain to jump?  I have 
not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit the rudder stop.    
The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...    Any 
further thoughts would be appreciated.   Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net    From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    I can pretty much 
assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is why the problem comes 
and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The detrimental rust would also 
likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be quite 
perceptible.    Josh          On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List"  wrote: Per Chuck's previous comments, the 
radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip.  Similarly, 
the helm wheel has a keyway and key.  I've tightened the idler pully plate 
bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full 
disassembly.    Sigh...    Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net    From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?    If the radial wheel 
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

  
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore 

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sproc

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I have had the pedestal partially apart, in that I replaced the brake pads and 
lubed the chain.  I also got it far enough apart to jump the chain links for 
the purposes of realigning the wheel.  I have not taken the chain off entirely. 
 If, in fact the bolts thread into a deck fitting rather than having to work 
with nuts on the backside, that would make things MUCH easier.
Interestingly, there was some commentary about how there were "wheels" replaced 
in the steering system before I bought the boat, but that was not documented, 
so I kind of disregarded it at the time.  I'd sure like it if I didn't have to 
deal with parts that are no longer manufactured!
Any available documentation about the process on my particular boat would be 
extremely helpful!

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net






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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Any chance that the Turks Head is moving?

..  or that someone is not moving it just for fun?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

And weirdly, the steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it 
happens when we're OFF the boat!

On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the wheel just in case there 
is more current than the wheel brake can control.  This is done to keep the 
wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel brake wear. Our slip is 
in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the rudder touching bottom 
when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch during low tides.  
Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.

Maybe the boat settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder 
against the line ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain 
to jump?  I have not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit 
the rudder stop.

The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...

Any further thoughts would be appreciated.

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

I can pretty much assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is why 
the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The detrimental 
rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be 
quite perceptible.

Josh



On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I 
don't think it can slip.  Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key.  I've 
tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on 
under there, which will mean a full disassembly.

Sigh...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>


From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Michael Brown mailto:m...@tkg.ca>>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>>

Hello all,

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket.
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing.

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.?

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket.
Thoughts?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
__ _

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>



__ _

Thanks everyone f

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

True, though note that very little play at the radial wheel keyway is required.
If your rudder swings 80 degrees and that takes 3 turns lock to lock ( no idea, 
just an example ),
then 1 degree on the rudder is 13.5 degrees on the wheel. If your rudder post 
is 2.5" diameter then
1 degree is less than 1/32" of play.

Other than taking everything apart on Windburn I have only looked at two other 
drives
systems. Both had been damaged and had some play in them. On one it was
a similar observation, the center mark on the wheel was no longer straight 
ahead. My guess
is while in full reverse the wheel was let go and slammed over against the stop 
hard
enough to shift the radial on the shaft. The key was brass or bronze and was 
damaged.
On the other one the keyways were not the same size, maybe out by 0.02" or so.

It is not always easy to get in and make good measurements.

That allowed the radial to move, polished the fit a bit and the drive system 
slipped
down enough to cause alignment problems.

I take it from your advise that everything was engineered to be a very tight or 
interference
fit. The ones I looked at were not but I couldn't tell by hand. Still, 20 
degrees is a lot.


I did take the plate and idlers off of Windburn, had them sandblasted and 
coated them
with POR-15. Came up as hard as rock and looks to be a good solution for 
rusting steel.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1






From: "Chuck Gilchrest"  

Michael, 
 
A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
no explanation.  I suspect Bruce?s boat has a 44? diameter wheel which means at 
20 degrees of travel, the Turk?s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ?? to one 
side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel that much, 
the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel. 
 
Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft by 
an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized by 
.003? for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the radial 
drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in place on the 
rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the rudder, the radial 
drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won?t slip on the post unless it is 
not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel. 
 
I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
handling suffers when this happens.. 
 
Chuck Gilchrest 
 
Half Magic 
 
1983 Landfall 35 
 
Padanaram, MA 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

When I tighten my cables I have someone turn the wheel quickly while I
watch for slack in the cables.  I'm sure this is nowhere near the tension
and pressure applied during operation.

This "slack" can also be experienced as backlash in the wheel.  Or the
distance the wheel travels from right to left before conveying that change
of direction to the rudder.

Have you ever had the pedestal apart?  Ever inspect the condition of the
bronze sprocket that drives the chain?

Josh



On Wed, Jan 24, 2018, 11:40 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> And weirdly, the steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway,
> and it happens when we're OFF the boat!
>
> On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the wheel just in case
> there is more current than the wheel brake can control.  This is done to
> keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel brake wear.
> Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the rudder
> touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch during
> low tides.  Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.
>
> Maybe the boat settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the
> rudder against the line ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing
> the chain to jump?  I have not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes
> when I hit the rudder stop.
>
> The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...
>
> Any further thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>
> I can pretty much assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is
> why the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The
> detrimental rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and
> cables which would be quite perceptible.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I
> don't think it can slip.  Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key.
> I've tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust
> going on under there, which will mean a full disassembly.
>
> Sigh...
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Michael Brown via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Michael Brown 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that
> issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the
> radial wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
>
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
> From: Bruce Whitmore 
>
> Hello all,
>
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when
> the wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and
> came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way,
> were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After
> installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables
> set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the
> adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the
> chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only
> to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to
> be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to
> reduce the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're
> out sailing.
>
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were
> a little loose, and tightened those.?
>
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and
> the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow
> jumping on the sprocket.
> Thoughts?
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm..

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

Your bolts don’t look original.  Mine are countersunk heads.  Mine are aluminum 
about seven inches long with stainless nuts.  When I took mine apart one on the 
bolts galled up and I had to drill the head out.  Edson no longer stocks that 
type of bolt so I went with a stainless hex head bolt like yours.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 24, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Chuck,
> 
> You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to 
> steering if I turn it that much when out sailing.  I also agree as to the 
> keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I 
> removed the radial plate for inspection.  On the C&C 37/40+, the idler 
> pulleys are not below deck, they fit in a very small space I can access after 
> taking out a removable triangular panel in the cockpit.  So, the parts won't 
> drop down into the bilge, but it would still be a bad outcome.  :(  
> 
> I'll have to figure out how hard it is to remove the assembly entirely.  I'm 
> not sure currently if the bolts penetrate all the way down below deck, or are 
> accessible once I remove the panel behind the wheel.  
> 
> You can kind of get an idea by looking at the picture here:  
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0
> 
> 
> 847-404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
> 
> Michael,
> A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
> no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” diameter wheel which means 
> at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ½” 
> to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel 
> that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel.
> Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft 
> by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized 
> by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the 
> radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in 
> place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
> rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on 
> the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.
> I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
> after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
> various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
> handling suffers when this happens..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
> Brown via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Michael Brown 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>  
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
> wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
>  
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
> From: Bruce Whitmore  
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
> wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were 
> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my 
> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
> bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 
> notches on the wheel sprocket. 
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce 
> the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out 
> sailing. 
> 
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
> little

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I know another list member has tackled the idler replacement in the last 2 
years on a similar boat and it was very well documented.  Your boat has a 
unique idler that Edson no longer builds, plus your pedestal bolts actually 
thread into a deck fixture rather than using through bolts and nuts.  I’ll try 
to find the link from an older thread if it is still out there.
Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 24, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Chuck,
> 
> You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to 
> steering if I turn it that much when out sailing.  I also agree as to the 
> keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I 
> removed the radial plate for inspection.  On the C&C 37/40+, the idler 
> pulleys are not below deck, they fit in a very small space I can access after 
> taking out a removable triangular panel in the cockpit.  So, the parts won't 
> drop down into the bilge, but it would still be a bad outcome.  :(  
> 
> I'll have to figure out how hard it is to remove the assembly entirely.  I'm 
> not sure currently if the bolts penetrate all the way down below deck, or are 
> accessible once I remove the panel behind the wheel.  
> 
> You can kind of get an idea by looking at the picture here:  
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0
> 
> 
> 847-404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
> 
> Michael,
> A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
> no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” diameter wheel which means 
> at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ½” 
> to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel 
> that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel.
> Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft 
> by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized 
> by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the 
> radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in 
> place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
> rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on 
> the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.
> I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
> after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
> various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
> handling suffers when this happens..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
> Brown via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Michael Brown 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>  
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
> wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
>  
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
> From: Bruce Whitmore  
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
> wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were 
> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my 
> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
> bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 
> notches on the wheel sprocket. 
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce 
> the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out 
> sailing. 
> 
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel b

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,
You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to 
steering if I turn it that much when out sailing.  I also agree as to the 
keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I removed 
the radial plate for inspection.  On the C&C 37/40+, the idler pulleys are not 
below deck, they fit in a very small space I can access after taking out a 
removable triangular panel in the cockpit.  So, the parts won't drop down into 
the bilge, but it would still be a bad outcome.  :(  

I'll have to figure out how hard it is to remove the assembly entirely.  I'm 
not sure currently if the bolts penetrate all the way down below deck, or are 
accessible once I remove the panel behind the wheel.  

You can kind of get an idea by looking at the picture here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0


847-404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:38 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
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{}#yiv2637076606 Michael,A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL 
lot of wheel travel with no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” 
diameter wheel which means at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would 
have moved roughly 7 ½” to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my 
hand moves the wheel that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with 
a big wheel.Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the 
rudder shaft by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined 
undersized by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut 
in the radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel 
in place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on 
the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.I too suspect 
a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot after 
tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping various 
bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat handling 
suffers when this happens..Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, 
MA    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Michael Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?  If the radial wheel 
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

 
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
From: Bruce Whitmore  

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket. 
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues wh

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Has anyone ever rode a bicycle with a rusty chain.  Everything can be fine then 
all of a sudden the chain derails, with varying results.  Those cross bars can 
do some damage. Check every inch on the chain and de-rust and lubricate as 
necessary.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 24, 2018, at 12:28 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Michael,
> A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
> no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” diameter wheel which means 
> at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ½” 
> to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel 
> that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel.
> Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft 
> by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized 
> by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the 
> radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in 
> place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
> rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on 
> the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.
> I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
> after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
> various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
> handling suffers when this happens..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
> Brown via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Michael Brown 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>  
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
> wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
>  
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
> From: Bruce Whitmore  
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
> wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were 
> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my 
> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
> bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 
> notches on the wheel sprocket. 
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce 
> the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out 
> sailing. 
> 
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
> little loose, and tightened those.? 
> 
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
> cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
> the sprocket. 
> Thoughts? 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile) 
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Michael,

A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” diameter wheel which means at 
20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ½” to one 
side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel that much, 
the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel.

Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft by 
an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized by 
.003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the radial 
drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in place on the 
rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the rudder, the radial 
drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on the post unless it is 
not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.

I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
handling suffers when this happens..

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

 

If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

 

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
From: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> 
> 

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket. 
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.? 

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket. 
Thoughts? 
Bruce Whitmore 
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL 
(847) 404-5092 (mobile) 
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

While it doesn't seem likely, I think it is easier to pull the radial wheel
and check that than go after the idler wheels and plate under the pedestal
right now.  You could check to see if the key is still there in the rudder
post and hasn't become partially sheared or worn in some way from the
radial wheel having been loose in the past?

As you said though, "The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner
rather than later..."

Ken H.

On 24 January 2018 at 12:39, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> And weirdly, the steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway,
> and it happens when we're OFF the boat!
>
> On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the wheel just in case
> there is more current than the wheel brake can control.  This is done to
> keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel brake wear.
> Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the rudder
> touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch during
> low tides.  Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.
>
> Maybe the boat settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the
> rudder against the line ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing
> the chain to jump?  I have not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes
> when I hit the rudder stop.
>
> The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...
>
> Any further thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>
> I can pretty much assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is
> why the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The
> detrimental rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and
> cables which would be quite perceptible.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I
> don't think it can slip.  Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key.
> I've tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust
> going on under there, which will mean a full disassembly.
>
> Sigh...
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Michael Brown via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Michael Brown 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that
> issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the
> radial wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
>
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
> From: Bruce Whitmore 
>
> Hello all,
>
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when
> the wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and
> came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way,
> were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After
> installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables
> set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the
> adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the
> chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only
> to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to
> be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to
> reduce the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're
> out sailing.
>
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were
> a little loose, and tightened those.?
>
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and
> the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow
> jumping on the sprocket.
> Thoughts?
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

And weirdly, the steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it 
happens when we're OFF the boat!
On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the wheel just in case there 
is more current than the wheel brake can control.  This is done to keep the 
wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel brake wear. Our slip is 
in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the rudder touching bottom 
when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch during low tides.  
Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom.

Maybe the boat settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder 
against the line ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain 
to jump?  I have not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit 
the rudder stop.
The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later...
Any further thoughts would be appreciated. Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 To: C&C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
I can pretty much assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is why 
the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The detrimental 
rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be 
quite perceptible.
Josh



On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I 
don't think it can slip.  Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key.  I've 
tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on 
under there, which will mean a full disassembly. 

Sigh...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Michael Brown 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
  
If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

 

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore 

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket.
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.? 

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket.
Thoughts?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I can pretty much assure you that there is rust.  What I can't explain is
why the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount.  The
detrimental rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and
cables which would be quite perceptible.

Josh



On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I
> don't think it can slip.  Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key.
> I've tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust
> going on under there, which will mean a full disassembly.
>
> Sigh...
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Michael Brown via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Michael Brown 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that
> issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the
> radial wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
>
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
> From: Bruce Whitmore 
>
> Hello all,
>
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when
> the wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and
> came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way,
> were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After
> installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables
> set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the
> adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the
> chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only
> to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to
> be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to
> reduce the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're
> out sailing.
>
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were
> a little loose, and tightened those.?
>
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and
> the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow
> jumping on the sprocket.
> Thoughts?
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I 
don't think it can slip.  Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key.  I've 
tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on 
under there, which will mean a full disassembly. 

Sigh...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Michael Brown 
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

 

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore 

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket.
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.? 

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket.
Thoughts?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

 

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
From: Bruce Whitmore  

Hello all,  
 
OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket. 
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing.  
 
During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.?  
 
Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket. 
Thoughts? 
Bruce Whitmore 
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL 
(847) 404-5092 (mobile) 
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 

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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Several things to consider:
1. If the cables are tensioned correctly, it is nearly impossible for the chain 
to jump teeth on the sprocket unless the sprocket teeth are broken.  You should 
have no more than 1/2” deflection for every 3’ of unsupported cable.  Tighten 
as necessary.
2. Make sure both adjuster and lock nuts are on the same side of the radial 
wheel.  Loosen the lock nut, adjust tension using the inboard nut and then lock 
in place with the outer nut. Putting the nuts on either side of the wheel 
allows the nuts to slip and lose tension.
3. Thoroughly inspect the idler assembly.  Tighten idler upright positioning 
nuts to assure proper alignment with the radial wheel.  Check for corrosion 
related flex in the idler plate under tension.  Replace worn bronze idler axles 
with stainless pins and check bearings or bushings for wear and side to side 
play.
4. Cables and chain should align on the sprocket with equal lengths on each 
side.  Mark the center of the chain with a sharpie marker and align with the 
Turks head knot or king spoke and wheel shaft key.   If it shifts position, the 
chain is hopping teeth on the sprocket and the sprocket should be replaced.
Those are really the only variables since the sprocket is keyed to the wheel 
shaft and the radial wheel is keyed to the rudder post.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 23, 2018, at 9:30 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Confusing and concerning.  Whatever it is, be sure to get it sorted out.  
> Anything problematic with the steering can't be good.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Jan 23, 2018 8:55 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello all, 
>> 
>> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
>> 
>> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
>> wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
>> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way, were 
>> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After installing my 
>> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
>> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
>> bolts through the radial drive wheel.  This required jumping the chain 1 or 
>> 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
>> 
>> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
>> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these 
>> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
>> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce 
>> the feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out 
>> sailing. 
>> 
>> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
>> little loose, and tightened those.  
>> 
>> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
>> cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
>> the sprocket.
>> 
>> Thoughts?
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
>> Madiera Beach, FL
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Confusing and concerning.  Whatever it is, be sure to get it sorted out.
Anything problematic with the steering can't be good.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jan 23, 2018 8:55 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
>
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when
> the wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and
> came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way,
> were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After
> installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables
> set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the
> adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.  This required jumping the
> chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
>
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only
> to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to
> be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to
> reduce the feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're
> out sailing.
>
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were
> a little loose, and tightened those.
>
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and
> the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow
> jumping on the sprocket.
>
> Thoughts?
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.  This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket.
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.  

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket.
Thoughts?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Stus-List Edson cable

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Bruce, For what its worth, I had my steering cable break in a squall. I was 50 
miles civilization but maybe 5-10 miles from a sheltered cove. I could not have 
steered long with the emergency tiller and there was no way to get parts. 
The cable was loose and rode up on the quadrant wheel cutting it.You have to 
remove the steering wheel and use all your strength to steer with the emergency 
tiller. Not much fun in those conditions! 

Anyway what I did was cut the spare genoa halyard wire with a hack saw to 
repair it and right or wrong it is still working 8 years later. The wire for 
your boat is only 7 feet long on each side. I used the rest of the wire for 
spare cable and replaced my halyard with rope. Check your wire often! Your C&C 
is the easiest to maintain and repair. You don't have to crawl under the 
cockpit! 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 

> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Edson

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The normal (easiest) way is to put the pictures somewhere else (your web site, 
DropBox, OneDrive) and include the link in the email.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dakin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2017 17:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin 
Subject: Stus-List Edson

I tried to attach photos but the list setup kicked it out.  I will try again if 
there is a workaround.

Bill Dakin


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Stus-List Edson

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I tried to attach photos but the list setup kicked it out.  I will try again if 
there is a workaround.

Bill Dakin

> On Mar 11, 2017, at 1:14 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don't know about Bill's set up, but I converted my 25 II into wheel 
> steering; Edson has a package especially for small boats and it fits under 
> the cockpit sole; works very well; probably not the best for racing, but it 
> opens up the cockpit nicely; I built a seat which spanned over the space 
> where the tiller normally came through;  
> 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mmle 596
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Sent: Sat, Mar 11, 2017 8:17 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Man Crosses Atlantic on a Paddle Board
> 
> Bill,
> You have Edson pedestal steering on a 25 Mk2?  Inquiring minds would love to 
> see a photo or two of how 
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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal install

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Spencer, I'd like to see your installation, thanks
 

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: ssjohnson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: ssjohnson 
Sent: Sun, Oct 18, 2015 9:58 pm
Subject: Stus-List Placement of control head





DaveI just replaced my pedestal with an Edson Vision seriesthus I have 
two pedestal 'arms' ... one with a Edson single pod (that can be swiveled 180 
degrees to be viewed/controlled  from the helm or cockpit ) that I used with a 
ST60 auto pilot control head, the other had a garmin GPS MAP 478 .
Let me know if you are interested. ... contact me offline.  Does anybody need a 
replacement conventional pedestal...???
Spencer Johnson 
'84 LF 38 "Alegria "





Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

Below is a post from last May on relining Edson brake pads.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: PME 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake & Relining Brakes
> Date: May 22, 2014 at 1:40:06 PM EDT
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Rob,
> 
> I just removed the Edson brakes and steering cables/chain from my steering 
> system this past Sunday.   And it was near exactly as described by Graham.  
> The hardest part was removing the seized flathead screws.  With a little PB 
> Blaster, some perseverance, and a lot of hammer-twisting on an old hand 
> impact driver (like the one at  http://tinyurl.com/q823uja 
> <http://tinyurl.com/q823uja> ) I was able to get the screws out.   I will 
> surely use never-seize putting the screws back in.  This little impact driver 
> has saved me on several occasions.
> 
> The removal of the brakes took just a few minutes at this point.  To add to 
> Graham's comments, there is a special-sized washer on the brake shaft toward 
> the knob side of the last brake pad.  This washer is critical in making the 
> brakes work.   It turns out this washer was missing on my brake system, and 
> that my brake pads are fine.  Try not to lose this washer or be very cautious 
> when installing a replacement.  I called Edson trying to buy the little 
> washer, but they insisted on sending a few washers out to me for free.  As 
> many have suggested, stuff rags down the pedestal, but I plan to tie dental 
> floss on this bugger to aid in its installation too. 
> 
> As for brake replacements, the kits go for about $77 online(Defender).  I 
> have read online of folks relining these pads.   Edson even sells a relining 
> kit but it costs about the same ($80 Jamestown Distributers). 
> 
> Following the success of other, I planned on relining the pads myself.  As it 
> looks I will only need the washer, but if the pads do need replacing in the 
> future I surely reline them myself.  It Looks like fun and for less than $10 
> one could reline several sets(help out a buddy).   For completeness I 
> included material list and Edson's instructions below.  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Materials
>   - McMaster-Carr  brake liner metal-free  3/16"T   1-1/4"W   
> 6175K812$3.91/ft
>   http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod 
> <http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod>
>   - Loctite Black Max Adhesive (or epoxy)
> 
> Brake Lining Replacement Instructions (from Edson EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF)
>   1. Remove old brake pads. Clean legs with solvent.
>   2. Bond new pads to brake legs with generous amounts of
>   supplied adhesive or two-part epoxy.
>   3. Clamp brake legs around a pipe approximately 1 1/2" in
>   diameter while the adhesive cures so that the new pads conform
>   to the shape of the legs.
>   4. After adhesive has cured, trim brake pads along edges of
>   brake leges with a band saw or hack saw.
>   5. Reinstall brake components as described inside and check
>   operation before installing cotter pin.
>   6. If brake does not clamp properly, check that washer has been
>   installed between shaft shoulder and A743 starboard brake leg.
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Rob, Bruno, have a look at the instructions here:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Edson/EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF

The material was ordered from mcmaster carr. I used the recommended black
loctite. Can't now find the link or remember but I'm fairly certain I found
the instructions on this list.
More reading (including a link to the product page):
https://www.mail-archive.com/cnc-list@cnc-list.com/msg20988.html

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto




On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 9:33 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Edsonmarine.com now has videos on servicing their pedestals; removing the
> brake and others.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"robert via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"robert" , "mike amirault" <
> amira...@eastlink.ca>
> *Sent: *Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:38:43 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal
>
> I bought an Edson Brake Pad Repair Kit a few years back but have never had
> the nerve to install it.  The Dansforth compass slips out of the binnacle
> easy enough, but after that, it gets a bit intimidating for me.
>
> What happens after the compass is removed?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-05-31 3:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake.
>
>  I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big
> enough to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list.
>
>  Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a reasonable
>> mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less than an hour.
>> However, if the knurling on the brass gear is badly worn, the new brake
>> pads will not help much.
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>> C&C33 mkii  "Lovely Cruise"
>> St Margarets Bay, NS
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Edsonmarine.com now has videos on servicing their pedestals; removing the brake 
and others. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "robert via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "robert" , "mike amirault"  
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:38:43 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal 

I bought an Edson Brake Pad Repair Kit a few years back but have never had the 
nerve to install it. The Dansforth compass slips out of the binnacle easy 
enough, but after that, it gets a bit intimidating for me. 

What happens after the compass is removed? 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2015-05-31 3:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote: 



I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake. 

I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big enough 
to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list. 

Steve 
Suhana, C&C 32 
Toronto 


On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a reasonable 
mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less than an hour. However, if 
the knurling on the brass gear is badly worn, the new brake pads will not help 
much. 
Good luck. 
Mike Amirault 
C&C33 mkii "Lovely Cruise" 
St Margarets Bay, NS 

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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[robert via CnC-List]

I bought an Edson Brake Pad Repair Kit a few years back but have never 
had the nerve to install it.  The Dansforth compass slips out of the 
binnacle easy enough, but after that, it gets a bit intimidating for me.


What happens after the compass is removed?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-31 3:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake.

I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big 
enough to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a
reasonable mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less
than an hour. However, if the knurling on the brass gear is badly
worn, the new brake pads will not help much.
Good luck.
Mike Amirault
C&C33 mkii  "Lovely Cruise"
St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake.

I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big
enough to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a reasonable
> mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less than an hour.
> However, if the knurling on the brass gear is badly worn, the new brake
> pads will not help much.
> Good luck.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33 mkii  "Lovely Cruise"
> St Margarets Bay, NS
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a reasonable 
mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less than an hour. However, if 
the knurling on the brass gear is badly worn, the new brake pads will not help 
much. 
Good luck.

Mike Amirault
C&C33 mkii  "Lovely Cruise"
St Margarets Bay, NS___

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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

We needed a cable brake and have sourced one - and a competent technician to 
install

-Original Message-
From: "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎28 9:44 PM
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: "Chuck S" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

Hi John,
Not sure of your problem?  I recently had to replace my idler plate on my 1990 
34/36.  I have pics and much advice on that process.  


Edson has an extensive website with technical support:




TECHNICAL SUPPORT
If you require technical support or information on an Edson products, please 
visit our tech support web pageor contact Edson:
By Email: i...@edsonintl.com
By Phone: (508) 995-9711




Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md






From: "John Irvin via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "John Irvin" 
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 8:21:09 PM
Subject: Stus-List Edson Pedestal



Someone posted on this topic a while ago. If anyone still has it I would 
appreciate a copy or a reference
Thanks, posters.


From: Bill Bina via CnC-List
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎28 6:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina
Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat



<http://blog.sfgate.com/ontheblock/2015/05/15/airbnb-renters-refuse-to-leave-after-south-bay-landlord-allows-them-to-start-paying-cash/>







On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:
> A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago.
> I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!)
>
> sam :-)
>



___



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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi John, 
Not sure of your problem? I recently had to replace my idler plate on my 1990 
34/36. I have pics and much advice on that process. 

Edson has an extensive website with technical support: 


TECHNICAL SUPPORT 
If you require technical support or information on an Edson products, please 
visit our tech support web page or contact Edson: 
By Email: i...@edsonintl.com 
By Phone: (508) 995-9711 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "John Irvin via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "John Irvin"  
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 8:21:09 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Edson Pedestal 

Someone posted on this topic a while ago. If anyone still has it I would 
appreciate a copy or a reference 
Thanks, posters. 

From: Bill Bina via CnC-List 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎28 6:22 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Bina 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat 

<http://blog.sfgate.com/ontheblock/2015/05/15/airbnb-renters-refuse-to-leave-after-south-bay-landlord-allows-them-to-start-paying-cash/>
 



On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: 
> A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago. 
> I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!) 
> 
> sam :-) 
> 

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Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Someone posted on this topic a while ago. If anyone still has it I would 
appreciate a copy or a reference
 Thanks, posters.

-Original Message-
From: "Bill Bina via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎05-‎28 6:22 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Bill Bina" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat





On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:
> A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago.
> I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!)
>
> sam :-)
>

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel brake.

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

John : where are you located? I have my old pedestal that you could have the 
brake off

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On May 24, 2014, at 7:13 PM, JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone have a used one for sale? C&C 27 Mk III.
> ___
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Stus-List Edson Wheel brake.

[JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List]

Anyone have a used one for sale? C&C 27 Mk III. ___
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake & Relining Brakes

[PME via CnC-List]

Rob,

I just removed the Edson brakes and steering cables/chain from my steering 
system this past Sunday.   And it was near exactly as described by Graham.  The 
hardest part was removing the seized flathead screws.  With a little PB 
Blaster, some perseverance, and a lot of hammer-twisting on an old hand impact 
driver (like the one at  http://tinyurl.com/q823uja ) I was able to get the 
screws out.   I will surely use never-seize putting the screws back in.  This 
little impact driver has saved me on several occasions.

The removal of the brakes took just a few minutes at this point.  To add to 
Graham's comments, there is a special-sized washer on the brake shaft toward 
the knob side of the last brake pad.  This washer is critical in making the 
brakes work.   It turns out this washer was missing on my brake system, and 
that my brake pads are fine.  Try not to lose this washer or be very cautious 
when installing a replacement.  I called Edson trying to buy the little washer, 
but they insisted on sending a few washers out to me for free.  As many have 
suggested, stuff rags down the pedestal, but I plan to tie dental floss on this 
bugger to aid in its installation too. 

As for brake replacements, the kits go for about $77 online(Defender).  I have 
read online of folks relining these pads.   Edson even sells a relining kit but 
it costs about the same ($80 Jamestown Distributers). 

Following the success of other, I planned on relining the pads myself.  As it 
looks I will only need the washer, but if the pads do need replacing in the 
future I surely reline them myself.  It Looks like fun and for less than $10 
one could reline several sets(help out a buddy).   For completeness I included 
material list and Edson's instructions below.  




Materials
- McMaster-Carr  brake liner metal-free  3/16"T   1-1/4"W   
6175K812$3.91/ft
http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod
- Loctite Black Max Adhesive (or epoxy)

Brake Lining Replacement Instructions (from Edson EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF)
1. Remove old brake pads. Clean legs with solvent.
2. Bond new pads to brake legs with generous amounts of
supplied adhesive or two-part epoxy.
3. Clamp brake legs around a pipe approximately 1 1/2" in
diameter while the adhesive cures so that the new pads conform
to the shape of the legs.
4. After adhesive has cured, trim brake pads along edges of
brake leges with a band saw or hack saw.
5. Reinstall brake components as described inside and check
operation before installing cotter pin.
6. If brake does not clamp properly, check that washer has been
installed between shaft shoulder and A743 starboard brake leg.




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Message: 15
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 23:06:48 -0300
> From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Abbott , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
> 
> Hi Rob
> Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
> 1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will 
> have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.  
> Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the 
> pedestal guard.
> 2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter 
> pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
> 3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal 
> plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
> 4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob 
> to unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
> 5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides 
> on/off.
> 
> That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for 
> beer... :-)
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> 
> On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
>> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>> 
>> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
>> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>> 
>> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
>> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
>> challenge.
>> 
>> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
>> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>&g

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Ouch, that kit is 89.95 at the binnacle now.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 8:34 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Graham,
>
> Thank you for your offer of assistance.if I decide to do this job, I
> will take you up on your offer and if it is any consolation, I don't work
> unless there is 'beer', so you have no worries.
>
> Jim, I bought the Edson Wheel Brake Repair Kit at the Binnacle here and it
> cost $69.95..when I look at what I got (two pads, a little plastic
> pipe, a washer, a cotter pin and some Locktite) I don't know why it is that
> price.  What you paid seems more reasonable.
>
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2014/05/21 11:06 PM, Graham Collins wrote:
>
>> Hi Rob
>> Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
>> 1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will
>> have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.
>>  Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the
>> pedestal guard.
>> 2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter
>> pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
>> 3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal
>> plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
>> 4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob to
>> unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
>> 5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides
>> on/off.
>>
>> That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for
>> beer... :-)
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>>>
>>> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit
>>> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>>>
>>> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a
>>> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a
>>> challenge.
>>>
>>> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the
>>> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
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>>> page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Graham,

Thank you for your offer of assistance.if I decide to do this job, I 
will take you up on your offer and if it is any consolation, I don't 
work unless there is 'beer', so you have no worries.


Jim, I bought the Edson Wheel Brake Repair Kit at the Binnacle here and 
it cost $69.95..when I look at what I got (two pads, a little 
plastic pipe, a washer, a cotter pin and some Locktite) I don't know why 
it is that price.  What you paid seems more reasonable.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/05/21 11:06 PM, Graham Collins wrote:

Hi Rob
Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you 
will have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the 
cables.  Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate 
holding the pedestal guard.
2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter 
pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice 
grips.
3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the 
metal plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob 
to unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad 
slides on/off.


That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for 
beer... :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?

When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?


Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
challenge.


If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rob,  I just did it last weekend while I was changing the shift and throttle 
cables.  I had to remove the brake so I could slide the chain all the way 
forward to get the cables changed.  Re-installing the brake was easy by 
comparison.  As Sylvain and others have mentioned, after removing the compass, 
also remove the next layer of the pedestal to make access easier.  It's very 
easy to put the pieces of the brake in - the wheel and shaft just screw into 
the port brake piece.  I pulled a piece of twine through the eye of the cotter 
pin so that if I dropped the pin while installing it, it would not disappear 
down the pedestal.  Then just pull the twine out when the legs on the pin are 
properly bent.  It all went fairly smoothly.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 18:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Abbott , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> Message-ID:
>   <1400723791.69954.yahoomail...@web163405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Yes, I did it 2-3 years ago on my Edson 335 , no specific issues except to 
> make sure the roller bearings and chain links? grease have no chance to 
> contaminate the brake pad lining. I think the big issue was putting the 
> cotter pin . make sure you have 1? ( or better 2 ) layers of rags under the 
> shaft assembly, some parts are pretty small!
> 
> Sylvain
> C&C27 MkIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:17 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
> 
> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
> 
> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
> challenge.
> 
> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
> compass is removed?? Any and all advice welcomed.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 



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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Excellent. I may take you up on that.
I should have bought the brake repair kit when I was at West, I think it
was $23 or something.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 21 May 2014 19:06, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:

> Hi Rob
> Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
> 1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will
> have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.
>  Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the
> pedestal guard.
> 2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter
> pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
> 3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal
> plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
> 4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob to
> unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
> 5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides
> on/off.
>
> That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for
> beer... :-)
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>
> On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>>
>> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit
>> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>>
>> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a
>> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a
>> challenge.
>>
>> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the
>> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Chris Price via CnC-List]

I added a brake to my pedestal when I first bought the boat, but that was 15 
years ago. Don't remember what was involved, but I know I didn't have any 
problems. I'd remember if there were issues. 

Chris Price 
Pradel 
35 MK I 


- Original Message -

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:17:42 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake 

Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit? 

When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job? 

Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
challenge. 

If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
compass is removed? Any and all advice welcomed. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 


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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Rob
Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will 
have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.  
Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the 
pedestal guard.
2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter 
pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal 
plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob 
to unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides 
on/off.


That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for 
beer... :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?

When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?


Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
challenge.


If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

Yes, I did it 2-3 years ago on my Edson 335 , no specific issues except to make 
sure the roller bearings and chain links  grease have no chance to contaminate 
the brake pad lining. I think the big issue was putting the cotter pin . make 
sure you have 1  ( or better 2 ) layers of rags under the shaft assembly, some 
parts are pretty small!

Sylvain
C&C27 MkIII





 From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:17 PM
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
 

Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?

When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?

Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
challenge.

If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Rob, I have to tackle the same job on my 32. If I get to it before you I'll
be sure to send you pics.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Wed, May 21, 2014 at 7:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I didn't have to do it but could have when I was replacing the shift and
> throttle control cables.  I don't recall anything besides the tight space.
> On mine there is a shift lever "block" between the compass and the
> pedistal.  It is removable after disconnecting the control cables.
> Removing it makes everything easier.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  On May 21, 2014 6:17 PM, "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>>
>> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit
>> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>>
>> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a
>> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a
>> challenge.
>>
>> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the
>> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I didn't have to do it but could have when I was replacing the shift and
throttle control cables.  I don't recall anything besides the tight space.
On mine there is a shift lever "block" between the compass and the
pedistal.  It is removable after disconnecting the control cables.
Removing it makes everything easier.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 On May 21, 2014 6:17 PM, "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>
> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit
> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>
> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a work
> bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a challenge.
>
> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the
> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
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Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?

When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?


Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
challenge.


If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Marek Dziedzic]

Bonjour Sébastien,

There should be some adjustment available on the brass "things" attached to the 
levers. A picture I have from the installation manual shows that the other end 
is a threaded rod that threads into the attachment at the end of the 
transmission cable. I was hoping that I can make the adjustment there.

Your picture reveals one more thing, though - that even if there is some 
adjustment room on that rod, there is no way to do it without first dismantling 
pretty much everything around (short of a very small dwarf repelling into the 
pedestal).

I have a couple of somethings that might look like a screw cover. I will try 
popping them out and see.

Btw. my current approach is that if I cannot reasonably easily adjust the cable 
on the pedestal side, I will try to extend the thread on the transmission end 
(by using a die and cutting the thread a few mm longer). This should last till 
the end of the season when I can try a frontal attack, potentially including 
replacing the cable.

thanks

Marek 

Original message below:

Hello Marek,

  The original compass on mine appeared to have been modified by the previous 
owner.  It was held in place by screws on the upper part of the chrome collar 
holding the compass.  There was screw covers need the bottom part of the collar 
that were not covering anything in my case, they could look a bit like rivet 
but are easy to pop out using a thin blade, you might find your screws there.

  This spring, I installed a new compass and the attachment is now as Jonathan 
described (under the light cover of the compass).

  There is not much adjustment to be made that the pedestal end of the 
transmission cable on my boat.  Below is a link of what I found when I first 
opened up the pedestal.  In mine, I have two position to attach the 
transmission cable and it was already attached the the position with the most 
travel.  My lever also hits the SS guard in forward position but I the 
transmission is solidly engaged at that point.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/60uqvkuvcc3yvir/DSC_0019.jpg

Hope this helps,

S?bastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain

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