Re: [Elecraft] Dissable AM

2011-05-04 Thread David Honey
One thing that seems to work fairly well is that if you have the 2nd 
RX, you can have both on AM, but shift the 2nd RX by around 2.7kHz or 
2.8kHz with respect to the 1st RX. In effect, it gives you AM 
bandwidth of about 5.6kHz. Of course that means you don't get diversity RX.

73 de David M0DHO

At 04:00 04/05/2011, Lu Romero wrote:
George:

How do you monitor a mode that you dont have a filter for?


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Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers Cases Gift Certificate

2011-05-04 Thread Doug Turnbull
Hi All,
 I have found Rose's web page but get lost in the amount of detail.   I
can not find the prices and am put off because of plethora of information
which to my old mind lacks organization.   How does one get to the prices?

   73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Eric Champine
Sent: 03 May 2011 23:29
To: Frank Westphal
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers  Cases Gift Certificate

Hey Frank.
Can you or someone please point me in the direction of Rose's web page?
I didn't know there was someone who made them and it may be something I
would want to look in to.
I have a K1 and I am building a K2 and would like to see what they have to
offer.
Thanks so much.

73 de W2EEC

Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers Cases Gift Certificate

2011-05-04 Thread David Pratt
There is another maker of dust covers for Elecraft rigs, Doug. They are
at
http://www.radiodustcovers.com/ELECRAFT.html

I have these covers on my K1, K2 and K3 and am very pleased with them.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Doug Turnbull turnb...@net1.ie writes
 I have found Rose's web page but get lost in the amount of detail.   I
can not find the prices and am put off because of plethora of information
which to my old mind lacks organization.   How does one get to the prices?
-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +



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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - Appearent P3 Anomoly

2011-05-04 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Alan Bloom wrote:

The paint must also be removed from the sheet metal around each of the 
points where it attaches to the 2D fasteners.

My recent P3 metalwork had much more paint underneath the spray masking 
tape than the 3-y-o K3 had. It needed a vicious stainless steel scratch 
pen to clean the P3 panels down to bare bright metal around the fixing 
points.

Also make sure all the chassis screws are tight.

This is very important in Elecraft's 'flat pack' style of construction. 
With no internal chassis and no continuous edge-to-edge bonding between 
panels, RF shielding and grounding is *critically* dependent on that 
relatively small number of panel-to-panel fixings.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] Pleased...P3 No. 1327...

2011-05-04 Thread Ny9h@comcastNet


From the mobile


On May 4, 2011, at 1:17 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 
 I'm surprised that RIGrunner or MFJ or somebody doesn't make a 12V
 distribution system with a remote on/off control that could be
 connected to the K3 switched 12V output.
 
 It's actually a piece of cake.  If power for the control relay came
 from 

Actually mfi has avstrip that has a 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

2011-05-04 Thread Monty Shultes
I have been using an ALS-600, the 600-watt Ameritron solid state amp, for two 
years.  My shack is wired for 120 volts, 20 amps, 2 circuits.

The voltage from the power supply drops only slightly when transmitting, almost 
surely from internal factors, not house wiring.  The AC mains voltage does not 
drop.

I have never tripped a breaker.

The Elecraft Amp is probably more power efficient than the ALS-600 with its 
sophisticated power supply.  I'd worry about something else.

FWIW.

Monty K2DLJ




 The important point is whether the voltage to the finals at full output is
 as different when the KPA500 is supplied by 240 or 120V mains. I believe the
 answer is no. AFAIK, the KPA500, and it's power supply, was designed and
 tested to meet all of its performance specifications with either a 120V or
 240V mains supply. - Ron D'Eau Claire
 
 
 
 No. The KPA500 peak demand is less from your 120 volt outlet than
 most household vacuum cleaners or window air conditioners. And,
 unless you are running a full-carrier mode, the average demand by
 your KPA500 is far  below the peak.  - Joe Subich

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Re: [Elecraft] Pleased...P3 No. 1327...

2011-05-04 Thread Ny9h@comcastNet


From the mobile


On May 4, 2011, at 1:17 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 
 I'm surprised that RIGrunner or MFJ or somebody doesn't make a 12V
 distribution system with a remote on/off control that could be
 connected to the K3 switched 12V output.
 
 It's actually a piece of cake.  If power for the control relay came
 

Actually rig runner does have a strip with one of the outputs monitored for 
currentI ha ve one in the car, and turn on one radio which triggers the 
rest of the outlets...one could just switch a small relay with a small load on 
the k3 dc out...that would fire off the rig runner.


Bill/3
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Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers Cases Gift Certificate

2011-05-04 Thread Bob Naumann
The web site is:

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/7058736_hZbo4

Look at the top of the page where it clearly says:

Rose Kopp N7HKW, makes beautiful covers and carrying cases for Elecraft
radios and related equipment. 
Email Rose at elecraftcov...@gmail.com for details and pricing.
Tel: 406-560-3738




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Turnbull
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 3:33 AM
To: 'Eric Champine'; 'Frank Westphal'
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers  Cases Gift Certificate

Hi All,
 I have found Rose's web page but get lost in the amount of detail.   I
can not find the prices and am put off because of plethora of information
which to my old mind lacks organization.   How does one get to the prices?

   73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Eric Champine
Sent: 03 May 2011 23:29
To: Frank Westphal
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers  Cases Gift Certificate

Hey Frank.
Can you or someone please point me in the direction of Rose's web page?
I didn't know there was someone who made them and it may be something I
would want to look in to.
I have a K1 and I am building a K2 and would like to see what they have to
offer.
Thanks so much.

73 de W2EEC

Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] Pleased...P3 No. 1327...

2011-05-04 Thread Craig D. Smith
An external relay (or FET) switch box controlled by the K3 is certainly the
way to go, and is the simplest project imaginable.  The builder can
configure it for their choice of DC connectors.  I built one here several
months ago when I first got my P3.  In addition to providing as much current
for accessories as you desire, a single switch on the box also allows for
manual ON or OFF of the accessories in addition to automatic control via the
K3.  In my case, the switched DC power goes to a strip of PowerPole outlets.


73   Craig  AC0DS 



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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

2011-05-04 Thread WILLIS COOKE
If you have a dedicated 120V circuit for your ham shack and only run one 
transceiver and one medium power amp you will probably be OK.  The trouble 
comes 
from using a house circuit that already has other users and was designed for 
those users.  Many house circuits use #14 wire and are good for 15 amps max.  
You may already have the lights in the room and a few clocks and other things.  
Add on a TV set and your wife's hair dryer and you are in trouble, so you need 
to do a load analysis.  If you are going to run another circuit, it might as 
well be 220, or run two more circuits, a 110 and a 220.  But, you are never 
safe 
to just plug in several medium to high current loads without doing at least an 
informal load analysis.  If you have too many loads on a circuit you will soon 
lose your claim to Never popping a breaker.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Monty Shultes mon...@mindspring.com
To: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, May 4, 2011 5:49:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

I have been using an ALS-600, the 600-watt Ameritron solid state amp, for two 
years.  My shack is wired for 120 volts, 20 amps, 2 circuits.

The voltage from the power supply drops only slightly when transmitting, almost 
surely from internal factors, not house wiring.  The AC mains voltage does not 
drop.

I have never tripped a breaker.

The Elecraft Amp is probably more power efficient than the ALS-600 with its 
sophisticated power supply.  I'd worry about something else.

FWIW.

Monty K2DLJ




 The important point is whether the voltage to the finals at full output is
 as different when the KPA500 is supplied by 240 or 120V mains. I believe the
 answer is no. AFAIK, the KPA500, and it's power supply, was designed and
 tested to meet all of its performance specifications with either a 120V or
 240V mains supply. - Ron D'Eau Claire
 
 
 
 No. The KPA500 peak demand is less from your 120 volt outlet than
 most household vacuum cleaners or window air conditioners. And,
 unless you are running a full-carrier mode, the average demand by
 your KPA500 is far  below the peak.  - Joe Subich

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[Elecraft] KPA-500

2011-05-04 Thread Nand Kishore
Any news of KPA-500 assy.manual.

73,Nandu
 K3 # 282
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[Elecraft] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
When I was a teenage novice in the early 1970's, armed only with a  
Heathkit HW-16, 15 meters became my favorite band. It was a reliable  
source of DX contacts even when my entire antenna system was a  
multiband inverted-V a few feet off the roof.

15 m, as well as the other high HF bands (12 m, 10 m), can be  
sparsely populated at times, even when they're open. In the old days  
that meant tuning the VFO up and down, searching endlessly. But the K2  
and K3 have a SCAN feature that lets the radio do the work, while you  
answer email, work on homebrew projects, clean up the shack, etc.

I was reminded of this about half an hour ago. A quick check of 15 m  
revealed no signals, so I set up a background (muted) scan from  
21.000-21.060 on the K3. A few minutes later the scan stopped at  
21.026, where PJ2/KE1B was calling CQ. Since he had just started  
calling, there was no pileup, and I made the QSO on one call.

For scanning instructions, see page 40 of the K3 owner's manual or  
page 103 of the K2 manual.

Let me know what pops up.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread Jim Sheldon

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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
That's great and I like the idea, but with a variable S7 to S9 noise floor 
here, I find the K3 stops all the time - would you expect that or am I doing 
something wrong?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
For all our conceits about being the center of the universe, we live in a
routine planet of a humdrum star stuck away in an obscure corner ... on an
unexceptional galaxy which is one of about 100 billion galaxies. ... That
is the fundamental fact of the universe we inhabit, and it is very good for
us to understand that. -Carl Sagan, astronomer and writer (1934-1996)

On 4 May 2011, at 16:00, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 When I was a teenage novice in the early 1970's, armed only with a 
 Heathkit HW-16, 15 meters became my favorite band. It was a reliable 
 source of DX contacts even when my entire antenna system was a 
 multiband inverted-V a few feet off the roof.
 
 15 m, as well as the other high HF bands (12 m, 10 m), can be 
 sparsely populated at times, even when they're open. In the old days 
 that meant tuning the VFO up and down, searching endlessly. But the K2 
 and K3 have a SCAN feature that lets the radio do the work, while you 
 answer email, work on homebrew projects, clean up the shack, etc.
 
 I was reminded of this about half an hour ago. A quick check of 15 m 
 revealed no signals, so I set up a background (muted) scan from 
 21.000-21.060 on the K3. A few minutes later the scan stopped at 
 21.026, where PJ2/KE1B was calling CQ. Since he had just started 
 calling, there was no pileup, and I made the QSO on one call.
 
 For scanning instructions, see page 40 of the K3 owner's manual or 
 page 103 of the K2 manual.
 
 Let me know what pops up.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
If there's a high noise floor, try the following, in this order:

- Turn off the preamp, and possibly even turn on the attenuator
   (SCAN is pretty sensitive, so it will stop on real signals above
   the noise floor even with the attenuator on)

- Narrow the filter bandwidth and slow down the scan rate accordingly
   (example: If you set WIDTH to 100 Hz, set RATE to 10 Hz rather than
   50 Hz so you won't miss as many real signals)

- Try backing down RF GAIN a bit

- Use a lower-noise antenna

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On May 4, 2011, at 8:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

 That's great and I like the idea, but with a variable S7 to S9 noise  
 floor here, I find the K3 stops all the time - would you expect that  
 or am I doing something wrong?
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108



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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Move to the countryside with no urban noise - go live in the middle of texas :-)

Thanks Wayne, very good things to try there.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein.



On 4 May 2011, at 16:42, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 If there's a high noise floor, try the following, in this order:
 
 - Turn off the preamp, and possibly even turn on the attenuator
  (SCAN is pretty sensitive, so it will stop on real signals above
  the noise floor even with the attenuator on)
 
 - Narrow the filter bandwidth and slow down the scan rate accordingly
  (example: If you set WIDTH to 100 Hz, set RATE to 10 Hz rather than
  50 Hz so you won't miss as many real signals)
 
 - Try backing down RF GAIN a bit
 
 - Use a lower-noise antenna
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 On May 4, 2011, at 8:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
 
 That's great and I like the idea, but with a variable S7 to S9 noise floor 
 here, I find the K3 stops all the time - would you expect that or am I doing 
 something wrong?
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread Matt Zilmer
You could use the SQL control to set the threshold up to the noise
floor.  I use scan all the time with an S4 noise level, and the SQL
helps a lot.

matt W6NIA


On Wed, 04 May 2011 16:36:02 +0100, you wrote:

That's great and I like the idea, but with a variable S7 to S9 noise floor 
here, I find the K3 stops all the time - would you expect that or am I doing 
something wrong?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
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[Elecraft] ...in the middle of Texas...

2011-05-04 Thread John Ragle
Ho, David...

 Living in the middle of Texas -- LOFL or IASMBG (I almost swallowed 
my bubble-gum -- what you might call a gob-stopper).

 Actually, I am not sure that the middle of Texas is quiet...lots of 
dry wind to generate static charge/discharge...I suggest Ruby, Alaska, 
or 40-Mile, Yukon Territory for real sub-urban quiet. Here in the 
wilds of western Massachusetts we also have very low noise floors on 
most bands. The problem is, I am in a receiving hole inside the crater 
left by the ancient (now dry) Lake Hitchcock, and the quiet is achieved 
thusly. One might as well terminate the antenna terminals of the XCVR 
with a dummy load, or bury the antenna in the soil. The latter two would 
obviate any BCI problems as well.

 I love this reflector! It is as good as SNL or The Goon Show. 
Propagation always seems 100%.

73,

John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Had forgotten that K3 had SQL - good point
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
-- 
Do not pray for tasks equal to your powers; pray for powers equal to your
tasks. -Phillips Brooks, bishop and orator (1835-1893)

On 4 May 2011, at 17:00, Matt Zilmer wrote:

 You could use the SQL control to set the threshold up to the noise
 floor.  I use scan all the time with an S4 noise level, and the SQL
 helps a lot.
 
 matt W6NIA
 
 
 On Wed, 04 May 2011 16:36:02 +0100, you wrote:
 
 That's great and I like the idea, but with a variable S7 to S9 noise floor 
 here, I find the K3 stops all the time - would you expect that or am I doing 
 something wrong?
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?

2011-05-04 Thread Wayne Conrad
Wayne,

Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?

73, Wayne (still studying for the test)

On 05/04/11 08:00, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 ...But the K2
 and K3 have a SCAN feature that lets the radio do the work, while you
 answer email, work on homebrew projects, clean up the shack, etc.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?

2011-05-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
The V_SMTR line on the control board, which is still live even when  
the receiver is muted.

Good luck with the test!

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Wayne Conrad wrote:

 Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?

 73, Wayne (still studying for the test)

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Re: [Elecraft] Pleased...P3 No. 1327...

2011-05-04 Thread Lu Romero
Or you can do it by scrounging.  :)

At work, we had 4 Furman MP-15 remote switched power relay
outlets.  We obsoleted them when we did a redesign of our
attraction, so, as usual, I had an application for them in
mind, and rescued them from the dumpster in fine Ham
fashion.

These are 15 amp remote switched dual outlet power boxes
used to sequence high power audio amplifiers to protect the
mains from inrush trips.  Its a simple matter to take the
output of my 12v power supply and route it to the power
sensor on the MP-15.  When the main power supply is switched
on, the 12v activates the power to both the outlets via a
relay.  

for accessory power, like my MicroKeyers, speakers and the
like, I found a very small 15 amp switching 12v supply (at
CompUSA - Labeled ULTRA PS-15 - $19.95) in a rather sexy
back plastic case with foot stands.  It has 8 12v outlets
using barrel sockets.  It comes with 8 variable length
barrel to barrel cables, too.  It is amazingly quiet from
switching noise, I cant find any RF from it.  This little
item is plugged into the MP-15 and replaces all the wall
warts in my station.  When I power my main 12v Astron PS, it
triggers the MP-15, which turns everything in the shack on
except the linear and the K3 at once.

The only negative are the incredibly bright purple LED's on
each of the Ultra's active 12v outlets... A short length of
elecrtrical tape fixes that...

The MP-15 is quite expensive new, but they can be found on
Ebay.  But now I have three spares, just waiting for future
applications :)  I can add another one on the second outlet
to automatically turn on my amplifier... Maybe someday when
I get a round to-it... :)

-lu-

--

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 21:54:26 -0700
From: Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Pleased...P3 No. 1327...
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 1304484866.1445.26.camel@ulinux-desktop
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I'm surprised that RIGrunner or MFJ or somebody doesn't make
a 12V
distribution system with a remote on/off control that could
be connected
to the K3 switched 12V output.  Sounds like an opportunity: 
Someone on
the list should market one.  Or at least design one and
write a QST
article.

Al N1AL



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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

2011-05-04 Thread Edward R. Cole
I ran a Swan Mark-III (2x3-400z) PS on 120vac in a bedroom (My ham 
shack) running 2500vdc @ 400mA (1000VA) to run my 2m-8877 to 600w 
output.  That PS drew at least as much as the KPA500 will.  I only 
saw a slight momentary flicker in the room lights when I switched to 
transmit (I am transmitting key-down for one minute using digital modes).

I only ran 240vac when I upgraded to a 4kV@1amp HVPS.  I ran 35-foot 
of #8-4 wiring to a small breaker box with one 20A 240v breaker and 
two 20A 120v breakers.  That provided some separate circuits for my 
low-voltage PS so that the rest of the ham shack could run on the 
house circuits.  Now I am adding a 3500VA 50vdc PS for 6m-QRO, so 
will have to add another 240v outlet.  I will not add any breakers 
since I will not run both 6m-QRO and 2m-QRO at the same time.

The HP switching PS (50v@50A) only cost me $18 on e-bay!  It will 
supply a Harris Platinum 1100w SSPA (16 LDMOS transistors) that is a 
pull from a chan-2 TV station.  They were used as drivers for 50kW 
transmitters!

--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 19:32:33 -0700
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 4dc0bac1.60...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

On 5/3/2011 11:20 AM, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:
  I'd be interested to hear about benefits (if any) of running the
  KPA-500 on 220V vs 110V (in the US)

The only good reason I can think of is if the 120V circuit that runs
your ham shack would be overloaded by adding the amp. That's a rather
unlikely scenario. A single 15A circuit is good for 1,800 watts. The
KPA500 specs say it needs 1,000 VA, which is 8.3A. That leaves 6.7A
(800W) to run the rest of your ham gear. Because most power amps,
including the KPA500, get to full power with less than 50 watts, you'll
only need about 2A at 120V for the transceiver.  Even with SO2R, you're
only transmitting with one radio at a time, and transceivers don't burn
my power in RX mode (especially Elecraft radios).

The one good reason for having 240V in your shack if if you think you
might want to run an amp rated at 1kW or higher, or if you might need a
space heater.

If I were pulling new wiring into a ham shack, I would install one 20A
120V circuit and one 20A 240V circuit for ham gear (and computer gear)
only. I would put LOTS of outlets on the 120V circuit, and I would put
them in steel backboxes that are all bonded together, and to the backbox
for the 240V outlet.

If I thought the station might someday want to do multi-two contesting,
I would double up both circuits, but I would still keep them all bonded
together.

73, Jim K9YC



73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kW?, 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-testing*, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==
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Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers Cases Gift Certificate

2011-05-04 Thread Doug Turnbull
Bob and all,
Thank you, Rose saw my e-mail and wrote me so I am now in e-mail contact
with her and will probably order both a case and cover.   Thank all of you
who steered me in the right direction.

73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: Bob Naumann [mailto:w...@w5ov.com] 
Sent: 04 May 2011 13:20
To: 'Doug Turnbull'; 'Eric Champine'; 'Frank Westphal'
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers  Cases Gift Certificate

The web site is:

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/7058736_hZbo4

Look at the top of the page where it clearly says:

Rose Kopp N7HKW, makes beautiful covers and carrying cases for Elecraft
radios and related equipment. 
Email Rose at elecraftcov...@gmail.com for details and pricing.
Tel: 406-560-3738




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Turnbull
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 3:33 AM
To: 'Eric Champine'; 'Frank Westphal'
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers  Cases Gift Certificate

Hi All,
 I have found Rose's web page but get lost in the amount of detail.   I
can not find the prices and am put off because of plethora of information
which to my old mind lacks organization.   How does one get to the prices?

   73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Eric Champine
Sent: 03 May 2011 23:29
To: Frank Westphal
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rose's Covers  Cases Gift Certificate

Hey Frank.
Can you or someone please point me in the direction of Rose's web page?
I didn't know there was someone who made them and it may be something I
would want to look in to.
I have a K1 and I am building a K2 and would like to see what they have to
offer.
Thanks so much.

73 de W2EEC

Eric
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[Elecraft] Running Duplex with the sub-Rx

2011-05-04 Thread Edward R. Cole
The K3 is a great radio, we all agree, and it is finding lots of 
enthusiasts for use on VHF/UHF.  But for one very popular use, it is 
not able to fulfill is as a satellite radio.  For successful use on 
the ham sats one needs to have full duplex operation.  This usually 
is in the form of cross-band duplex (e.g. transmit on 2m and receive on 70cm).

One can set up a dual-receiver K3 to be connected to a 2m transverter 
for transmitting and a 70cm converter or transverter for receiving 
using the aux antenna and sub-Rx, but the K3 cannot support duplex at 
the SDR level of the radio, as I understand it.

Well, I have an idea that might work if one can keep the sub-Rx 1st 
IF operational during transmit mode.  If one took the first IF of the 
sub-Rx to an external SDR for demod it seems duplex operation could 
be done.  The VFO's would be run un-linked.

This question/suggestion is submitted to Wayne and crew for comment.


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kW?, 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-testing*, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
==
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread goldtr8
Page 40 is the assignment tonight. :-)

I did not know this existed.

Don
KD8NNU


On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 11:00 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 When I was a teenage novice in the early 1970's, armed only with a 
 Heathkit HW-16, 15 meters became my favorite band. It was a reliable 
 source of DX contacts even when my entire antenna system was a 
 multiband inverted-V a few feet off the roof.

 15 m, as well as the other high HF bands (12 m, 10 m), can be 
 sparsely populated at times, even when they're open. In the old days 
 that meant tuning the VFO up and down, searching endlessly. But the K2 
 and K3 have a SCAN feature that lets the radio do the work, while you 
 answer email, work on homebrew projects, clean up the shack, etc.

 I was reminded of this about half an hour ago. A quick check of 15 m 
 revealed no signals, so I set up a background (muted) scan from 
 21.000-21.060 on the K3. A few minutes later the scan stopped at 
 21.026, where PJ2/KE1B was calling CQ. Since he had just started 
 calling, there was no pileup, and I made the QSO on one call.

 For scanning instructions, see page 40 of the K3 owner's manual or 
 page 103 of the K2 manual.

 Let me know what pops up.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

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[Elecraft] K144RFLK Offsets?

2011-05-04 Thread Mark Goecke
I just installed the K144RFLK in my K3.  I have the .5 ppm oven controlled 
crystal in my radio.

When I calculate the new offsets, I ended up with a 0.104 Hz offset for the 
144-146 range and a 1.4 Hz offset for the 146-148 range. 
Following the instructions and converting these amounts to KHz, I ended up with 
no offsets to enter into the radio, as the resulting amounts were smaller than 
the allowable significant digits for the XVn OFFSET settings.

I set the OFS to 0 for both of them.  Is this correct?

It would seem to me that if you have the more accurate reference oscillator 
crystal in the radio, that you could just change the manual to enter a zero for 
both offsets.

Mark Goecke KC5VF
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?

2011-05-04 Thread Wayne Conrad
Just to see that I'm reading the schematic correctly: V_SMTR is in the 
IF stage, after AGC, so the crystal filters are in effect when scanning, 
but the audio filter (KAF2/KDSP2) is not part of the loud enough to 
stop scanning circuit.  It looks like the audio filter, mute, and audio 
amplifier are pretty much the only thing that's out of the loop for 
scanning.  That means, for example, that twisting the audio gain knob 
will not affect scanning.  Have I got it right?

73, Wayne Conrad (studying like mad)

On 05/04/11 09:55, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 The V_SMTR line on the control board, which is still live even when
 the receiver is muted.
 
 Wayne Conrad wrote:

 Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?
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[Elecraft] OT - QST Article

2011-05-04 Thread Lee Buller
I have been looking on the web for an article out of QST.  This article was 
published in the last two years or so...  The article was about an indicator 
for 
tuning.  The author used a wheatstone bridge.  He dumped a lot of power into a 
dumby load from the xmiter so tehre was just a few microwatts going into the 
wheatstone bridge.  He then could tune the antenna tuner without transmitting 
on 
the air.  I think it was the primary article in the QST

Lee Buller
K0WA




 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any 
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common 
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  John W. (Kansas)
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

2011-05-04 Thread Fred Townsend
I will add a few comments to Cookie's good advice. If you are wondering if
your ham shack is wired with 15 or 20 amp service here is an easy way to
tell. There are two common types of grounded duplex receptacles available in
the USA. The NEMA 5-15R type has two parallel blades with the U ground pin
on top and the right hand neutral blade is somewhat larger. This receptacle
is rated for 15 amps and is normally wired with 14 gage wire. The NEMA 5-20R
receptacle looks much the same except the right hand blade is T shaped (the
T is laying down) and should be wired with 12 gage wire. NEMA 5-20R plugs
are usually listed as 'Industrial' and therefore not necessarily found in
the same electrical section of Home Depot. 

If you are installing a new circuit 240 VAC is preferable. The current is
less and therefore the copper losses lower and everything, including your
power supply, runs cooler. 
de Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of WILLIS COOKE
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 5:29 AM
To: Monty Shultes; Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

If you have a dedicated 120V circuit for your ham shack and only run one
transceiver and one medium power amp you will probably be OK.  The trouble
comes from using a house circuit that already has other users and was
designed for those users.  Many house circuits use #14 wire and are good for
15 amps max. You may already have the lights in the room and a few clocks
and other things. Add on a TV set and your wife's hair dryer and you are in
trouble, so you need to do a load analysis.  If you are going to run another
circuit, it might as well be 220, or run two more circuits, a 110 and a
220.  But, you are never safe to just plug in several medium to high current
loads without doing at least an informal load analysis.  If you have too
many loads on a circuit you will soon lose your claim to Never popping a
breaker.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ 





From: Monty Shultes mon...@mindspring.com
To: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, May 4, 2011 5:49:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

I have been using an ALS-600, the 600-watt Ameritron solid state amp, for
two years.  My shack is wired for 120 volts, 20 amps, 2 circuits.

The voltage from the power supply drops only slightly when transmitting,
almost surely from internal factors, not house wiring.  The AC mains voltage
does not drop.

I have never tripped a breaker.

The Elecraft Amp is probably more power efficient than the ALS-600 with its
sophisticated power supply.  I'd worry about something else.

FWIW.

Monty K2DLJ




 The important point is whether the voltage to the finals at full 
 output is as different when the KPA500 is supplied by 240 or 120V 
 mains. I believe the answer is no. AFAIK, the KPA500, and it's power 
 supply, was designed and tested to meet all of its performance 
 specifications with either a 120V or 240V mains supply. - Ron D'Eau 
 Claire
 
 
 
 No. The KPA500 peak demand is less from your 120 volt outlet than 
 most household vacuum cleaners or window air conditioners. And, 
 unless you are running a full-carrier mode, the average demand by 
 your KPA500 is far  below the peak.  - Joe Subich

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500]KPA500 power cord question

2011-05-04 Thread K2GN
Gentlemen:
I appreciate all the input, but the question has been answered.
To clarify, this is a modification, reconfiguration of an existing shack.
There's power there, 115V and 220V. There's an opportunity for a 2nd 220V
line.
I'm going to do that, I needed to know what type of power cord was needed.
Now I got that and it's ordered.
Thank you all for your input.
de K2GN - Larry - http://k2gn.com
K3 S/N - 3278P3 S/N - 51

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye on your favorite (too-quiet) band

2011-05-04 Thread drewko
Wayne, 

I often use the K3 scanner to listen for band activity (I wrote the
SCANNOW key macro that scans immediately the range of freqs 
from VFO-A thru VFO-B). 

The scanner is great for keeping an eye (ear?) on the band while doing
other things around the shack or, in my case, while busy with
something at the other end of the house and listening via intercom. 

One thing that I often thought might be useful for this remote scanner
monitoring would be the ability to set a specific dwell time. For
example: once the scanner pauses on a signal it would automatically
resume scanning after a user-settable amount of time. As it is now,
the scan will sometimes pause too briefly or get hung up for too long
on a particular signal; would be nice if I could set it for, say,
exactly 10 seconds (or whatever amount) per hit. 

73,
Drew
AF2Z


On Wed, 04 May 2011 08:00:51 -0700, you wrote:

When I was a teenage novice in the early 1970's, armed only with a  
Heathkit HW-16, 15 meters became my favorite band. It was a reliable  
source of DX contacts even when my entire antenna system was a  
multiband inverted-V a few feet off the roof.

15 m, as well as the other high HF bands (12 m, 10 m), can be  
sparsely populated at times, even when they're open. In the old days  
that meant tuning the VFO up and down, searching endlessly. But the K2  
and K3 have a SCAN feature that lets the radio do the work, while you  
answer email, work on homebrew projects, clean up the shack, etc.

I was reminded of this about half an hour ago. A quick check of 15 m  
revealed no signals, so I set up a background (muted) scan from  
21.000-21.060 on the K3. A few minutes later the scan stopped at  
21.026, where PJ2/KE1B was calling CQ. Since he had just started  
calling, there was no pileup, and I made the QSO on one call.

For scanning instructions, see page 40 of the K3 owner's manual or  
page 103 of the K2 manual.

Let me know what pops up.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] OT - QST Article

2011-05-04 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
An ARRL website search for wheatstone bridge tuner finds:

Oct 2004 - QST (Pg. 60)
The Wheatstone Bridge (sidebar to An SWR Indicator for the MFJ-902
Antenna Tuner)
(Workbench)
Author: Ceccherelli, John, N2XE
http://p1k.arrl.org/pubs_archive/104134

Unfortunately the PDF (you have to be an ARRL member to download it)
only includes the last page of the article. You could report that at:

http://www.arrl.org/pubindex/errors/index/104134

... if it's the right article...

73,

~iain / N6ML


On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 5:50 PM, Lee Buller k...@swbell.net wrote:
 I have been looking on the web for an article out of QST.  This article was
 published in the last two years or so...  The article was about an indicator 
 for
 tuning.  The author used a wheatstone bridge.  He dumped a lot of power into a
 dumby load from the xmiter so tehre was just a few microwatts going into the
 wheatstone bridge.  He then could tune the antenna tuner without transmitting 
 on
 the air.  I think it was the primary article in the QST

 Lee Buller
 K0WA




  In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
 don't
 have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
 any
 Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
 Sense divine?

 Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
 -  John W. (Kansas)
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?

2011-05-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
Yes.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On May 4, 2011, at 10:36 AM, Wayne Conrad wrote:

 Just to see that I'm reading the schematic correctly: V_SMTR is in  
 the IF stage, after AGC, so the crystal filters are in effect when  
 scanning, but the audio filter (KAF2/KDSP2) is not part of the loud  
 enough to stop scanning circuit.  It looks like the audio filter,  
 mute, and audio amplifier are pretty much the only thing that's out  
 of the loop for scanning.  That means, for example, that twisting  
 the audio gain knob will not affect scanning.  Have I got it right?

 73, Wayne Conrad (studying like mad)

 On 05/04/11 09:55, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 The V_SMTR line on the control board, which is still live even when
 the receiver is muted.
 
 Wayne Conrad wrote:

 Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?

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[Elecraft] C9 on KIO3

2011-05-04 Thread Adi Andrei
Hi,

I knocked out C9, a big capacitor (compared to the other SMDs) while 
reistalling the subRX.
It got hooked by the coax from the Aux antenna.

My question is, what does C9 do, and what would happen without it ?

Also any suggestions ? I never did SMD soldering, and also this one seems 
tricky. It still hangs in its [upper] side connection, but it seems as the 
second connection is underneath it ?

Thank you.

Adi, 2E0TTX


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[Elecraft] Weller Repair and Rebate Promotion

2011-05-04 Thread G. Beat


Weller North America Mail-In Rebate Promotion. 

Choose from Weller's five best selling products, and receive a mail-in rebate 
directly from Weller! 

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lead cutter. 
Rebate offer valid through July 31, 2011  



Download the Weller  North America  Rebate Form, here: 
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Do you have a broken Weller iron or station that you have held on on repairing? 

Just mention promotion code WXR with your next repair order and you will 
receive a 10% to 25% discount.   

This offer does not apply to repair orders already in house. 

Weller Repair Offer Expires: June 30, 2011 



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[Elecraft] K2 on PSK IMD?

2011-05-04 Thread Steve_wG0AT
Getting ready to use my K2 SN6473 on PSK and possibly other data  
modes. Wondering if there's any issues w/IMD on the K2? I seem to  
remember seeing somewhere on the web a mod made to the SSB board? or  
was that just early SN K2s? Or if I just watch my gain/power levels to  
avoid any ALC should I be OK?

Tks, Steve wGOAT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 on PSK IMD?

2011-05-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Steve,

That is old information that you were seeing.  Those changes have been 
incorporated on your KSB2 - of course, if you purchased an older KSB2 
board from another owner, you should check it physically against the 
values changed by that IMD mod.   The mod instructions are on the 
Elecraft website.

Increase the audio level into the K2 until you see 1 ALC bar, and then 
back the audio off a bit until it disappears or just barely flickers.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2011 3:52 PM, Steve_wG0AT wrote:
 Getting ready to use my K2 SN6473 on PSK and possibly other data
 modes. Wondering if there's any issues w/IMD on the K2? I seem to
 remember seeing somewhere on the web a mod made to the SSB board? or
 was that just early SN K2s? Or if I just watch my gain/power levels to
 avoid any ALC should I be OK?

 Tks, Steve wGOAT

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[Elecraft] K144RFLK Offsets?

2011-05-04 Thread Paul Saffren
Hi Mark,

If your value of REFCAL is very close to 49,380,000 then the XVn offsets 
will be very small, and may even be zero.

BTW, what is the value of REFCAL on your radio?

73,

Paul

-- 
Paul Saffren - n6hz
Firmware Engineer
Elecraft Inc.
831.763.4211
www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K133RF:K Offsets

2011-05-04 Thread Mark Goecke
My REF frequency is 49.380.000

Right on the money,  Since my radio reads out directly on the REF frequency, 
that is why I was suggesting putting a statement in the manual to just go ahead 
and set the Offsets to 0 for that case.

Mark Goecke KC5VF
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Re: [Elecraft] K133RF:K Offsets

2011-05-04 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Mark, 

I agree with you.  If your REFCAL is on the button, or fairly close (which
I'll have to calculate) , the XVn values should then be set to zero.   I'll
talk to our technical writer and address the changes to the manual. 

Thanks, 

paul

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-K133RF-K-Offsets-tp6332306p6332366.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K2 Transmit Test

2011-05-04 Thread Paul Agoglia
I ran a transmit test today on my recently built (serial 7059) K2/100, with SSB 
adaptor,  KAT 100 antenna tuner and elecraft balun.  For the station antenna, I 
have an 80 meter dipole with each leg currently cut to 66 feet.  The center of 
the dipole is not quite 40 feet high.  The two ends are inverted downward  and 
are each 10 feet off the ground.  All three points of the antenna are anchored 
in trees.

The antenna is fed to the shack with 165 feet of The Wireman 'window' ladder 
line

I used my microphone to call a CQ on 40 meters, and the KAT 100 lit up like a 
Holiday Tree.  SWR all the way to the red zone.  I tried this at various power 
settings up to 100 watts, and only transmitted long enough to see how many 
lights I got.  Always to the end of the scale.  I used a separate SWR meter and 
was getting readings of 7:1.

I switched to a 300 watt dummy load from the 80 meter dipole, and the SWR 
reading on the KAT 100 was perfect.  Just one light lit up. 

I also did a continuity check between the two lines on the ladder line to 
verify I did not have a short.  OK there.

Any suggestions?  Is it possible that all I need to do at this point is trim 
the antenna?  Or do I have something internal going on?

73 de WN2K
Paul Agoglia

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[Elecraft] Weird K2 tuning thing (hand capacitance)

2011-05-04 Thread TJ Campie

Something seems weird with my K2 - when I put my hand near the front left of 
the face the frequency of signals on the band swing around wildly (sometimes I 
can get the signal to go outside of a 500 hz passband). Sometimes it settles 
back down to where it was before but sometimes not. It also happens if I push 
on the top of the cover on the top left too. I'm not sure if its a shielding 
issue or what but I took the cover off and stuck my hand in that corner and 
could not get it to act up until I put the cover back on. 
I couldn't find anything in the manual about this type of behavior so hopefully 
somebody on the list knows of a way to fix this as it is getting a bit 
annoying. 
Thanks! 73 de W0EA
TJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Transmit Test

2011-05-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Paul,

Did you set the menu ATU parameter to AUTO and then do a TUNE before 
trying to transmit?
If you did, you should have heard relays clack while the KAT100 found a 
match, then the SWR indicators should have settled to less than 1.5.

If you followed that procedure, then yes, you can conclude that the 
feedpoint impedance of the antenna is beyond the matching range of the 
KAT100.

Remember that the KAT100 is not an automatic tuner that will initiate 
a TUNE when it detects a high SWR - the operator must do a TUNE into the 
antenna for each band, and then afterwards, those settings will be 
remembered by the KAT100, and restored when you return to that band.  As 
long as you do not change the antenna, those settings should be good, 
but first, you must do a TUNE on each band to allow the KAT100 to find a 
match for that band/antenna.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2011 7:49 PM, Paul Agoglia wrote:
 I ran a transmit test today on my recently built (serial 7059) K2/100, with 
 SSB adaptor,  KAT 100 antenna tuner and elecraft balun.  For the station 
 antenna, I have an 80 meter dipole with each leg currently cut to 66 feet.  
 The center of the dipole is not quite 40 feet high.  The two ends are 
 inverted downward  and are each 10 feet off the ground.  All three points of 
 the antenna are anchored in trees.

 The antenna is fed to the shack with 165 feet of The Wireman 'window' ladder 
 line

 I used my microphone to call a CQ on 40 meters, and the KAT 100 lit up like a 
 Holiday Tree.  SWR all the way to the red zone.  I tried this at various 
 power settings up to 100 watts, and only transmitted long enough to see how 
 many lights I got.  Always to the end of the scale.  I used a separate SWR 
 meter and was getting readings of 7:1.

 I switched to a 300 watt dummy load from the 80 meter dipole, and the SWR 
 reading on the KAT 100 was perfect.  Just one light lit up.

 I also did a continuity check between the two lines on the ladder line to 
 verify I did not have a short.  OK there.

 Any suggestions?  Is it possible that all I need to do at this point is trim 
 the antenna?  Or do I have something internal going on?

 73 de WN2K
 Paul Agoglia

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Transmit Test

2011-05-04 Thread Tony Estep
Paul, you can use an 80 meter dipole on 40 as you describe. Many have done
it with success. However, you may have to fool with it to get it to work,
since the antenna is being fed at a very high impedance point.

I assume the balun you're talking about is 4:1. To start, I'd suggest
grounding the cold side of the balun to a counterpoise consisting of at
least 3 wires 33 feet long strung out in various directions, out the window
and lying on the ground if possible. Another helpful measure is to insert an
RF isolator (like those available from Radioworks.com). It goes between the
balun and the tuner. This is just a 1:1 choke balun which kills off any RF
current flowing on the outside of your coax.

I'd bet that these two modifications will bring things under control. If
not, you may have to try different lengths of feedline, but save that for a
last resort.

good luck,
Tony KT0NY


On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 6:49 PM, Paul Agoglia pagog...@stny.rr.com wrote:

 I ran a transmit test today 
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Re: [Elecraft] Weird K2 tuning thing (hand capacitance)

2011-05-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  TJ,

That is indeed weird behavior for the K2.  I would suspect a solder 
connection problem somewhere inside the K2.

If not a solder problem --
Did you flush cut the leads below the BFO inductor L33?  If not, the 
toroid may be sitting too high and contacting the bottom cover.  And did 
you put tape on the bottom cover where L33 is located to assure that the 
toroid cannot make contact with the bottom cover?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2011 7:50 PM, TJ Campie wrote:
 Something seems weird with my K2 - when I put my hand near the front left of 
 the face the frequency of signals on the band swing around wildly (sometimes 
 I can get the signal to go outside of a 500 hz passband). Sometimes it 
 settles back down to where it was before but sometimes not. It also happens 
 if I push on the top of the cover on the top left too. I'm not sure if its a 
 shielding issue or what but I took the cover off and stuck my hand in that 
 corner and could not get it to act up until I put the cover back on.
 I couldn't find anything in the manual about this type of behavior so 
 hopefully somebody on the list knows of a way to fix this as it is getting a 
 bit annoying.
 Thanks! 73 de W0EA
 TJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Transmit Test

2011-05-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Tony and all,

Those counterpoise wires should not just be dangled on the ground.  
They will carry RF current, and the RF voltage at the ends can be quite 
high.  Treat them just like an antenna radiating element - keep them 
clear of possible contact for humans and pets, and use insulators on the 
ends just as you would on an antenna radiator.

Be safe for yourself and your family and guests.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2011 8:09 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
 Paul, you can use an 80 meter dipole on 40 as you describe. Many have done
 it with success. However, you may have to fool with it to get it to work,
 since the antenna is being fed at a very high impedance point.

 I assume the balun you're talking about is 4:1. To start, I'd suggest
 grounding the cold side of the balun to a counterpoise consisting of at
 least 3 wires 33 feet long strung out in various directions, out the window
 and lying on the ground if possible. Another helpful measure is to insert an
 RF isolator (like those available from Radioworks.com). It goes between the
 balun and the tuner. This is just a 1:1 choke balun which kills off any RF
 current flowing on the outside of your coax.

 I'd bet that these two modifications will bring things under control. If
 not, you may have to try different lengths of feedline, but save that for a
 last resort.

 good luck,
 Tony KT0NY


 On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 6:49 PM, Paul Agogliapagog...@stny.rr.com  wrote:

 I ran a transmit test today 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Transmit Test

2011-05-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Paul,

In addition to the points in my last post, a check of the feedpoint 
impedance (with an antenna analyzer) at the end of the parallel line 
would be informative.  If you have an 80 meter radiator and a feedline 
that is close to a half wavelength on 40 meters (34 feet or some 
multiple of that length), the feedpoint impedance will be very high.  
You might do well to  try adding a 15 foot length of parallel feedline.

I would advocate that a 1:1 balun will usually serve you better than a 
4:1.  It is not the characteristic impedance of the balanced line that 
is to be matched, but the actual feedpoint impedance of the feedline at 
the point where the balun is inserted - it all depends on the electrical 
feedline length and the electrical length of the radiator.

An 80 meter radiator used on 40 meters is two halfwaves in phase which 
has a high feedpoint impedance at the antenna feedpoint, one must use a 
balanced feedline that has an electrical length of 1/4 wavelength or an 
odd multiple thereof to bring the feedpoint impedance down to a 
reasonable level.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2011 7:49 PM, Paul Agoglia wrote:
 I ran a transmit test today on my recently built (serial 7059) K2/100, with 
 SSB adaptor,  KAT 100 antenna tuner and elecraft balun.  For the station 
 antenna, I have an 80 meter dipole with each leg currently cut to 66 feet.  
 The center of the dipole is not quite 40 feet high.  The two ends are 
 inverted downward  and are each 10 feet off the ground.  All three points of 
 the antenna are anchored in trees.

 The antenna is fed to the shack with 165 feet of The Wireman 'window' ladder 
 line

 I used my microphone to call a CQ on 40 meters, and the KAT 100 lit up like a 
 Holiday Tree.  SWR all the way to the red zone.  I tried this at various 
 power settings up to 100 watts, and only transmitted long enough to see how 
 many lights I got.  Always to the end of the scale.  I used a separate SWR 
 meter and was getting readings of 7:1.

 I switched to a 300 watt dummy load from the 80 meter dipole, and the SWR 
 reading on the KAT 100 was perfect.  Just one light lit up.

 I also did a continuity check between the two lines on the ladder line to 
 verify I did not have a short.  OK there.

 Any suggestions?  Is it possible that all I need to do at this point is trim 
 the antenna?  Or do I have something internal going on?

 73 de WN2K
 Paul Agoglia

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Re: [Elecraft] Weird K2 tuning thing (hand capacitance)

2011-05-04 Thread TJ Campie
Thanks Don - I did not build my K2 but I checked L33 and it looks good. It 
seems the problem is more prominent when I push on the top cover anyway, which 
makes me think that L33 isn't the problem. Are there any specific components in 
the front left of the RF board I should look for specifically for bad solder 
joints?

-- 
TJ Campie, w0ea
On Wednesday, May 4, 2011 at 7:16 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: 
  TJ,
 
 That is indeed weird behavior for the K2. I would suspect a solder 
 connection problem somewhere inside the K2.
 
 If not a solder problem --
 Did you flush cut the leads below the BFO inductor L33? If not, the 
 toroid may be sitting too high and contacting the bottom cover. And did 
 you put tape on the bottom cover where L33 is located to assure that the 
 toroid cannot make contact with the bottom cover?
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 5/4/2011 7:50 PM, TJ Campie wrote:
  Something seems weird with my K2 - when I put my hand near the front left 
  of the face the frequency of signals on the band swing around wildly 
  (sometimes I can get the signal to go outside of a 500 hz passband). 
  Sometimes it settles back down to where it was before but sometimes not. It 
  also happens if I push on the top of the cover on the top left too. I'm not 
  sure if its a shielding issue or what but I took the cover off and stuck my 
  hand in that corner and could not get it to act up until I put the cover 
  back on.
  I couldn't find anything in the manual about this type of behavior so 
  hopefully somebody on the list knows of a way to fix this as it is getting 
  a bit annoying.
  Thanks! 73 de W0EA
  TJ
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[Elecraft] Tips for new KX1

2011-05-04 Thread John
Hello all,

I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio 
and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.

For the moment, the base radio is the only thing I can purchase.  I 
eventually will add the 3080, antenna tuner and the nifty key.

I recall some folks with the K2 suggest procuring the desired options 
ahead of time to avoid reworking portions of the circuitry during a 
later retrofit.

Does the KX1's design lend itself to add the 3080 and tuner options 
later with little rework?

Anyone have any other advice to give before I plunge into building the 
base KX1 rig?

I already know about pre-wound toroids, but enjoy doing those myself.

Thanks.

John
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[Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread John Shadle
This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
(I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).

I power cycled the radio and then received a multitude of errors upon
power-up (including ERR IO1 and ERR PL1 among others). In addition to
that, the fans were running (I have the 100w amp as well).

I turned the radio off for a minute or so, and now the error has
resolved. I've had the issue of the no power out when TUNE-ing in the
past, but never this before.

Help!
-john W4PAH
K3 #110
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread John Shadle
Add to this the fact that the radio now is only putting out 12W
instead of 100W. :-(

Thanks for any assistance.

-john W4PAH

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:28 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
 then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
 wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
 (I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).

 I power cycled the radio and then received a multitude of errors upon
 power-up (including ERR IO1 and ERR PL1 among others). In addition to
 that, the fans were running (I have the 100w amp as well).

 I turned the radio off for a minute or so, and now the error has
 resolved. I've had the issue of the no power out when TUNE-ing in the
 past, but never this before.

 Help!
 -john W4PAH
 K3 #110

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Re: [Elecraft] Tips for new KX1

2011-05-04 Thread w1pns
On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 22:12 -0400, John wrote:
 Hello all,
 
 I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio 
 and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.

Hi John,

It's a great little radio; you'll love it. I built the 40-20 version and
the autotuner and used the radio for a bit before adding the 80-30
module. I think the answer to your question rests in large part on how
experienced you are at kit-building and how adept you are at editing
construction manuals -- reading through both sets of very detailed
instructions, adding any changes from the errata page, then fold one
into the other for a straight-through build that works the first time.

When I tackled mine, it was the first kit I'd built in roughly 25 years,
so I took the conservative 40-20 route and don't regretted it. If I
remember correctly, Elecraft recommends adding the 80-30 after you're
sure you have a functioning 40-20 radio. The tuner is easy enough to
remove when it comes time to add the two extra bands. The approach also
introduced me to the joys of a desoldering tool, a kind of reverse,
spring-loaded syringe. Looks like something I wouldn't want to see a
physician wield around my bod!  ;-)

I bought the options all at once. But I felt most comfortable following
Elecraft's recommended approach.

Dunno if this helps at all...

With best regards,

Pete

-- 
Peter N. Spotts -- W1PNS
http://www.w1pns.net 
Email: w1...@arrl.net | Skype: pspotts
QCWA #34679 | SKCC #4853T | QRP-ARCI #4174
NEQRP #714 | NAQCC #2446 | GQRP #13202

Amateur radio is a contact sport. 
Get on the air and make a contact!
   -- Lyle Amundson, K0LFV


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
more than 12W out sounds like the KPA100 is off-line. Considering how
confused the K3 acted previously, I'd check the CONFIG menu to ensure it
still shows the KPA100 as Installed. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Shadle
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 7:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

Add to this the fact that the radio now is only putting out 12W
instead of 100W. :-(

Thanks for any assistance.

-john W4PAH

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:28 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
 then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
 wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
 (I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).

 I power cycled the radio and then received a multitude of errors upon
 power-up (including ERR IO1 and ERR PL1 among others). In addition to
 that, the fans were running (I have the 100w amp as well).

 I turned the radio off for a minute or so, and now the error has
 resolved. I've had the issue of the no power out when TUNE-ing in the
 past, but never this before.

 Help!
 -john W4PAH
 K3 #110

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Re: [Elecraft] Tips for new KX1

2011-05-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
John, the KX1's tuner is a snap to add. Remove a jumper from the connector
for the KXAT1 and plug it in. The connector on the main KX1 pcb is installed
during the initial build. 

The 3080 option is a little more involved since it involves mounting a pony
board on the main board, but it's nothing to shy away from if you've built
the KX1. 

My K2 was assembled bit by bit as the options were developed and had no
issue doing that. But some folks just don't want to pull the cover off again
once the rig's assembled and some opt to have someone else build for them so
they definitely are not interested in dragging out a soldering iron. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 7:13 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Tips for new KX1

Hello all,

I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio 
and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.

For the moment, the base radio is the only thing I can purchase.  I 
eventually will add the 3080, antenna tuner and the nifty key.

I recall some folks with the K2 suggest procuring the desired options 
ahead of time to avoid reworking portions of the circuitry during a 
later retrofit.

Does the KX1's design lend itself to add the 3080 and tuner options 
later with little rework?

Anyone have any other advice to give before I plunge into building the 
base KX1 rig?

I already know about pre-wound toroids, but enjoy doing those myself.

Thanks.

John

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread Gary Gregory
Plus do a full congig TX etc
Gary

On 5 May 2011 12:46, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
 more than 12W out sounds like the KPA100 is off-line. Considering how
 confused the K3 acted previously, I'd check the CONFIG menu to ensure it
 still shows the KPA100 as Installed.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Shadle
 Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 7:30 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

 Add to this the fact that the radio now is only putting out 12W
 instead of 100W. :-(

 Thanks for any assistance.

 -john W4PAH

 On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:28 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com
 wrote:
  This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
  then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
  wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
  (I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).
 
  I power cycled the radio and then received a multitude of errors upon
  power-up (including ERR IO1 and ERR PL1 among others). In addition to
  that, the fans were running (I have the 100w amp as well).
 
  I turned the radio off for a minute or so, and now the error has
  resolved. I've had the issue of the no power out when TUNE-ing in the
  past, but never this before.
 
  Help!
  -john W4PAH
  K3 #110
 
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-- 

VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread Gary Gregory
Aaaargh...dang fingers...CONFIG TX GN

Sheesh

Gary

On 5 May 2011 12:51, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Plus do a full congig TX etc
 Gary


 On 5 May 2011 12:46, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
 more than 12W out sounds like the KPA100 is off-line. Considering how
 confused the K3 acted previously, I'd check the CONFIG menu to ensure it
 still shows the KPA100 as Installed.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Shadle
 Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 7:30 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

 Add to this the fact that the radio now is only putting out 12W
 instead of 100W. :-(

 Thanks for any assistance.

 -john W4PAH

 On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:28 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com
 wrote:
  This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
  then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
  wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
  (I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).
 
  I power cycled the radio and then received a multitude of errors upon
  power-up (including ERR IO1 and ERR PL1 among others). In addition to
  that, the fans were running (I have the 100w amp as well).
 
  I turned the radio off for a minute or so, and now the error has
  resolved. I've had the issue of the no power out when TUNE-ing in the
  past, but never this before.
 
  Help!
  -john W4PAH
  K3 #110
 
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 VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
 Elecraft Equipment
 K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
 Living the dream!!!




-- 

VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] Tips for new KX1

2011-05-04 Thread w1pns
On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 22:12 -0400, John wrote:
 Hello all,
 

Oh yes, and the instructions for the 40-20 only radio give you
variations on a couple of steps that you'd take if you intend to add the
80-30 board later. So the latest instructions anticipate somewhat a
later addition of the extra bands.

Pete

-- 
Peter N. Spotts -- W1PNS
http://www.w1pns.net 
Email: w1...@arrl.net | Skype: pspotts
QCWA #34679 | SKCC #4853T | QRP-ARCI #4174
NEQRP #714 | NAQCC #2446 | GQRP #13202

Amateur radio is a contact sport. 
Get on the air and make a contact!
   -- Lyle Amundson, K0LFV


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread John Shadle
That was my first thought, Ron.

I had previously had my TUN PWR set to 25W, but when I looked at that
menu item it was set to 12W. I had not changed the setting.

The KPA100 was no offline in the config menu at all.

I reflashed the firmware and now it's all working, I think. The
LP-100A wattmeter is showing about 75W out with a 1.6 SWR into my
antenna (the K3 says I'm getting 100W out). That seems a little low to
me. Next I'll try a dummy load...

The investigation continues.

-john

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:46 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
 Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
 more than 12W out sounds like the KPA100 is off-line. Considering how
 confused the K3 acted previously, I'd check the CONFIG menu to ensure it
 still shows the KPA100 as Installed.

 Ron AC7AC
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Re: [Elecraft] Tips for new KX1

2011-05-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
  John,

If you are an experienced builder, you can build the KX1 with 
consideration for the addition of the KXB3080 option - if and only if 
you order the KXB3080 at the same time as the KX1 (you will need some of 
the components).

If you cannot order the KXB3080 until later, just mount L6 on the bottom 
of the board rather than the top so you do not have to change it later.

If you have the KXB3080 kit available while building the KX1, you can 
avoid de-soldering components by following the instructions below:
The procedure is as follows:
Build the KX1 as indicated in the manual up through page 30 of the KX1 
manual.
On page 31, install L6 on the bottom of the board rather than on the top.
Do not install L7 on page 31.
Do not install C27 (page 32)
Do not install C1 on page 33.
Do not install C26 (page 33).
Continue with the KX1 manual steps.
Then from the KXB3080 instructions, install C1, C26 and T2 - be sure to 
make the PC trace cut indicated on page 5 (figure 2), and connect the 
end of the 40 meter trimmer capacitor to the cut trace as indicated.

You should then have a KX1 that works on 40 and 20 meters - test it on 
those bands.

Then add the KXB3080 board as indicated in the KXB3080 manual, and again 
test the KX1 on 40 and 20 meters.

Lastly (and most carefully), build the Low Pass Filter board for the 
KXB3080.  Follow the manual diagrams explicitly, work carefully, and 
make it look just like the diagrams - this is the most common failure 
point for builders.

Then activate b30 and b80 in the menu, and you should have operation on 
all 4 bands.

Good luck with the build process.  Use care when building the KX1 - 
because of its density, it is one of the more difficult Elecraft kits.  
Follow the instructions explicitly, use good soldering techniques and 
you should have success.  If you do not understand any step in the 
instructions, ask here on the reflector and you should receive 
clarification.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2011 10:12 PM, John wrote:
 Hello all,

 I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio
 and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.

 For the moment, the base radio is the only thing I can purchase.  I
 eventually will add the 3080, antenna tuner and the nifty key.

 I recall some folks with the K2 suggest procuring the desired options
 ahead of time to avoid reworking portions of the circuitry during a
 later retrofit.

 Does the KX1's design lend itself to add the 3080 and tuner options
 later with little rework?

 Anyone have any other advice to give before I plunge into building the
 base KX1 rig?

 I already know about pre-wound toroids, but enjoy doing those myself.

 Thanks.

 John
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread John Shadle
Doing that now. Thanks, Gary.
-john

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
 Aaaargh...dang fingers...CONFIG TX GN
 Sheesh
 Gary

 On 5 May 2011 12:51, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Plus do a full congig TX etc
 Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread John Shadle
Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
load on all bands. Hmmm.

Thoughts?

Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...

-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread John Shadle
OK. I'm really going to bed now--but before I do I noticed that I can
turn the TX ALC 'off' in the CONFIG menu and manually adjust the TXGN
HP for each band to achieve the 100W into the dummy load (as measured
through the LP-100A).

Is this advisable?

-john W4PAH

On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 11:15 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
 load on all bands. Hmmm.

 Thoughts?

 Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...

 -john W4PAH

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] multiple error messages on start-up

2011-05-04 Thread Gary Gregory
TX ALC should work in the OFF position just fine. I don't use ALC on the
KPA_500 anyway so it should be fine.
Gary

On 5 May 2011 13:34, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:

 OK. I'm really going to bed now--but before I do I noticed that I can
 turn the TX ALC 'off' in the CONFIG menu and manually adjust the TXGN
 HP for each band to achieve the 100W into the dummy load (as measured
 through the LP-100A).

 Is this advisable?

 -john W4PAH

 On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 11:15 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com
 wrote:
  Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
  load on all bands. Hmmm.
 
  Thoughts?
 
  Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...
 
  -john W4PAH
 




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Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!
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[Elecraft] K3 Microphone Cable

2011-05-04 Thread Steve Kercel
I am getting ready to buy a K3 and a MH-2 hand mike.

Due to the layout of my station, I need to add a 6-foot-long extension 
cable from the K3 mike jack to the actual mike connection. I have the 
necessary connectors on hand. but I'm wondering about the 8-conductor cable.

Is a piece of CAT-5 data cable (four twisted pairs of #24 wire) suitable 
for this purpose? Are there any special precautions I need to observe?

TNX  73,

Steve
AA4AK


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Re: [Elecraft] OT - QST Article

2011-05-04 Thread Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU
There is a similar article on p.36-38 of this month's (May 2011) CQ Magazine.
Leigh/WA5ZNU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Cable

2011-05-04 Thread Matt Zilmer
Ethernet cable is gonna look oogly - but it's cheap.  The twisted
pairs should provide a little shielding.  The jacket will not be very
smooth unless it's made from some material like TPE (rubberized
thermoplastic).  These are usually called Plenum Cables because of the
rated temperature range.  They're also round instead of the
PVC-jacket-gets-twisted (and otherwise deformed) characteristic.

I would advise a fully shielded mic HOT and RETURN cable. The Pro
stuff, like Shure used to source in the 1970's.  Dunno who sells this
class of mic cable now, but there was a distributor in Burbank, CA a
long time ago that used to service the west coast NBC studio.  I would
look along those lines.

At this station, there's been no trouble with the cabling for a Heil
Goldline that Heil itself provides.  It's a little pricey for someone
that is mostly DIY, but your TX audio will never suffer from it.  So
even though you want to use the MH2, an extension in one of these two
classes might cut it for you.  You might look into Heil Audio; they
may source an extension for the MH2 or its equivalent.

I believe the idea would be to minimize the impedance from source to
load, while keeping any stray RF away from the MIC input to the K3.

At this station, I have a lifetime supply of the Shure cable.  It's
double-shielded with both a woven layer and a thick foil.  That, and a
few ferrite collars cover the audio here from RFI.  Audio reports are
good too, better than anyone has a right to expect.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Wed, 04 May 2011 23:57:48 -0400, you wrote:

I am getting ready to buy a K3 and a MH-2 hand mike.

Due to the layout of my station, I need to add a 6-foot-long extension 
cable from the K3 mike jack to the actual mike connection. I have the 
necessary connectors on hand. but I'm wondering about the 8-conductor cable.

Is a piece of CAT-5 data cable (four twisted pairs of #24 wire) suitable 
for this purpose? Are there any special precautions I need to observe?

TNX  73,

Steve
AA4AK


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/K3 Operating Tip: Using SCAN to keep an eye

2011-05-04 Thread David Yarnes
I tried it, and thought I had flunked scanning 101.  You have to push the 
M - V button twice before pushing the scan button.  Maybe it says that 
somewhere, but I didn't see it.  I was only pushing it once.  Anyway, now it 
plays!  Watching my P3, however, it does skip over some signals.  Some 
seemed sufficiently strong to have stopped the scan, but I suppose it is a 
matter of whether or not a character is being sent at precisely the moment 
the scan feature rolls across that freq.

Dave W7AQK


---

Page 40 is the assignment tonight. :-)

I did not know this existed.

Don
KD8NNU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Cable

2011-05-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Steve,

 Is a piece of CAT-5 data cable (four twisted pairs of #24 wire)
 suitable for this purpose? Are there any special precautions I need
 to observe?

It will work fine.  Just be sure to use one pair for mic and mic return
(pin1 and pin 7) and one pair for PTT and ground (pin 2 and pin 8).
The other pins can be any wires but using twisted pairs for mic/mic
return and PTT/Ground will provide the best balancing to reduce any
hum/RFI issues with the unshielded cable.

If you can find shielded CAT5, connect the shield to the connector
*SHELL* only on both ends (do not connect it to either mic return
(pin 7) or ground (pin 8).

73,

... Joe, W4TV


 On Wed, 04 May 2011 23:57:48 -0400, you wrote:

 I am getting ready to buy a K3 and a MH-2 hand mike.

 Due to the layout of my station, I need to add a 6-foot-long extension
 cable from the K3 mike jack to the actual mike connection. I have the
 necessary connectors on hand. but I'm wondering about the 8-conductor cable.

 Is a piece of CAT-5 data cable (four twisted pairs of #24 wire) suitable
 for this purpose? Are there any special precautions I need to observe?

 TNX  73,

 Steve
 AA4AK


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[Elecraft] [K1] VFO Drift Problem

2011-05-04 Thread Matt Scholz
Hi -

I am trying to reduce my K1's VFO drift to an acceptable level. The VFO
frequency drifts up at a rate of about 30Hz/minute (after a 5 minute warm
up). Even after one hour, the drift is still about 15Hz/minute. This is
too much, obviously.

I have been trouble shooting this with the help of Gary, AB7MY. So far I
have done the following:

* Removed C2 to isolate D3 from the rest of the VFO circuit. No change.
* Replaced all three VFO poly caps (one at a time). See above.

I was wondering if anybody had any ideas on how to further trouble-shoot
and resolve this issue...

Thanks in advance and 73,

-Matt / W6ZBA

K1 #2978


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