Re: [Elecraft] 43 Ft Vertical and Elecraft Tuners

2013-09-03 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Remember the old Hy-Gain Hy-Tower ?  It had tuning stubs brought out from 
various places in order to provide resonance on 10, 15  20 M, maybe even 
one for 40M.  I have a manual around here but am too lazy to go find it. 
Anyway, I believe it was 57 feet overall and was rated for 80 - 10 M.  You 
could add a base loading coil and an additional length of wire off the top 
mast for 160M.  With an adequate radial system, they were the cat's meow 
of verticals back then.   I always wondered how the connection points for 
those resonators was determined.  Probably to limit interaction with other 
bands (??)  Maybe some sort of similar set-up could be done with parallel 
wire stubs.


I remember trying to tune a four pair parallel wire dipole for 20, 17 , 15 
and 10 M.  What a bear.  Tweak one band and it would screw up the others.  I 
finally got it tuned, but had to completely replace all the wires since I 
had chopped and re-soldered all of them so many times.   I used ½ PVC pipe 
spreaders which kept the four wires about 2 from each other.   Once up, it 
would have been impossible to re-deploy due to tangles.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 43 Ft Vertical and Elecraft Tuners



On 9/3/2013 7:30 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
With the KPA500 at 500W, on 40m, I get a lot of RF from the GAP screwing 
up things like the WinKey, the laptop, and various other digital gadgets.


The first thing I would do is put a serious ferrite choke on the coax at 
the antenna.  If that doesn't fix it, I'd say it's radiation from the 
antenna itself.


73, Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Stealth High-End Radio

2013-09-05 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH


It's always the boat anchors.  The movie about the ham kid who found his 
dead dad on the air was Heathkit I think.  I guess they look more like 
real radios to non-hams.





That movie was Frequency starring Dennis Quaid.  (Hope I spelled his name 
correctly).  I beleive an SB-301 was used as a transceiver.


I don't believe the new Harrison Ford movie with the SX-42  SX-23 has been 
released yet


Charlie k3ICH


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Re: [Elecraft] [600MRG] Use of K3 on 600m (and below)

2013-09-11 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I use  my K3 on 4.0 to 4.5 MHz with an old Palomar VLF converter.  I just 
ignore the 4 and read the frequency directly in kHz.


Works great and for such a simple circuit, there's not a lot of 
bleed-through.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Ken Roberson kwrober...@yahoo.com

To: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net; Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 600...@w7ekb.com 
group 600...@w7ekb.com

Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [600MRG] Use of K3 on 600m (and below)



Hello All,


I also would like to use 3.5 to 4.0 mhz for the IF frequency
.
I have completed the homebrew 630m transverter to work
With the K3 . I am using 7 mhz IF , It seem to be stable ,
However
It’s easier for me to build a more stable oscillator at 3.5
mhz.
Also there is a broadcast station on 7.475 mhz .
I can see the carrier on 475 khz , I have tried a few things
To filter this carrier out, So far no luck , What a pain.
Yes the 80 meter IF would be nice.
73 Ken K5DNL
=




From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
To: Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 600...@w7ekb.com 
group 600...@w7ekb.com

Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 2:37 AM
Subject: Re: [600MRG] [Elecraft] Use of K3 on 600m (and below)


Jim,

Yes, the lowest transverter IF is 7-MHz. Of course you can operate
the K3 in low power transceive on any frequency from 490-KHz to
32-MHz if in the TEST mode. Only issue is VFO readout is the IF and
not the operating frequency of a converter or transverter.

But say you use 3.472-3.478 MHz as your IF? Your LO would be 3.000
MHz. This could even be a DDS oscillator locked to a 10-MHz
reference. A simple mixer and LO without filters would work 0-500 KHz 
(maybe).


The wider issue if using other ham transceivers that only operate in
the ham bands.

My K3 has the EXREF board for referencing to an external 10-MHz
source. This enables 0.1 ppm accuracy. A 10-MHz LO is 1-Hz stabile.

73, Ed - KL7UW

At 03:58 PM 9/10/2013, Jim Miller wrote:
It would really be nice if K3 would support 80m as a transverter 
frequency.

If it did it would enable 3.5-4.0Mhz to reflect the full 500Khz from a low
band transverter.

jim ab3cv


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
dubus...@gmail.com
Kits made by KL7UW


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx

2013-09-11 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Naw, just remember to always drive on the left side of the keyboard and 
you'll do fine.


Chas
- Original Message - 
From: stew...@g3ysx.org.uk stew...@g3ysx.org.uk

To: Paul Saffren N6HZ pa...@elecraft.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx



Thanks Paul, I have ordered one of these, but I now have a doubt.

The issue with keyboard selection is seemingly with the keyboard mapping - 
won't this be different with a British keyboard?


Should I have waited and got one when I am next in the US?

Stewart

Sent from my iPad

On 11 Sep 2013, at 18:11, Paul Saffren N6HZ pa...@elecraft.com wrote:


Hi Stewart,

We, along with many of our customers have had very good luck with the
Logitech K360 Wireless keyboard.  It can often be found very 
inexpensively

online.Stay away from keyboards that have built in mice, or what are
call composite devices.  The SVGA USB driver does not support these, 
nor

does it support external hubs.

73,

Paul





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-SVGA-chars-randomly-omitted-during-Tx-tp7572341p7578826.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results, September 8

2013-09-13 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
There are several other KX3 Yahoo groups whose many members probably don't 
even know that there IS a Sunday Elecraft net.


That'd be my first suggestion.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Esquer Dave dave.esq...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results, September 8


How can we as a group increase the results of the Sunday SSB net for those 
of us who have KX3s running barefoot? Only 2 of the 34 checkins on Sunday 
were KX3s.


Frustrated and disappointed … but I keep trying …

Dave, K6WDE located KH7 temporarily …
KX3, serial number 4599

On Sep 12, 2013, at 5:24 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:


From: Ian Kahn - Ham [mailto:km4ik@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 2:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Elecraft SSB Net results, September 8



Here are today's Elecraft SSB net results.  We had a good net today, with 
34

check-ins.  Thanks go out to Bob, W1IS, and Phil, NS7P, for relay
assistance.


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement

2013-09-15 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I know it would take a few more net control volunteers, but the Collins 
Collectors Association net on 14.263, Sundays at 2000Z usually has at least 
two net controls located at (more-or-less) opposite ends of the country. 
They start with buy/sell/swap and then take check-ins by call area, starting 
with 1,2,3,4.  Then 8, 9, 0, 7, 6.  This attempts to follow the general 
propagation on 20 M and they stress that you check-in from the area your are 
transmitting from rather than your call.  Mobiles, DX, and QRP stations are 
given priority and are specifically listened for every few minutes,  taken 
anytime, anywhere.


Admittedly, I just heard about the Elecraft net, so I don't know how long it 
runs, or whether this format would be practical.


The CCA net is one of the oldest running Equipment Specific nets and if on 
a non-Super-Bowl or obnoxious contest weekend,  can run over 4 hours. This 
puts us at 8PM EDST, so propagation must be taken into account.


I have, on many occasions, checked in with my KX3 barefoot and gotten great 
signal reports not to mention some incredulous comments about signal 
strength.   As you might expect, most 100 watt and up ops can't believe you 
can actually make contacts running 10 watts.  (You don't have to be running 
Collins, just have an interest in it.)  I might add that I do NOT have any 
spectacular antenna either, just a little Cush-Craft LPDA at 55 feet.


As a slightly off topic comment, I didn't have any luck trying to check in a 
couple weeks ago with the KX3 and a 6 foot diameter Mag-Loop, but conditions 
were not good either(sour grapes).


73, Charlie k3ICH 


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[Elecraft] Fw: P3 on a Yaesu 736R

2013-10-04 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH



I tried to tap off the IF in the FT-736 using MPF-102 as a source follower. 
It worked fine, but the bandwidth was too narrow to make it worth the 
effort.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Gary Mohrlant gmohrl...@comcast.net

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2013 12:42 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 on a Yaesu 736R


Has anyone connected a P3 to the above rig. If so can you tell me where 
you tapped off for the IF.


Thanks

Gary W0GHZ
w0...@arrl.net
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[Elecraft] Fw: K3 Suddenly died

2013-10-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH



What is most amazing about this thread is that two sides can state the exact
same thing, but find fault with and argue with the other.. (???)
It's bordering on comical.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org

To: Richard Fjeld rpfj...@embarqmail.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly died


Of course. My point was for a given current, so 20A at 120V and 20A at 
13.8V.  --wunder, K6WRU


On Oct 7, 2013, at 9:03 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

I stated the voltage drop across a resistance (the wire conductor) is 
directly proportional to the amount of current flow (amperage) through 
it.


For a given resistance, as the current increases through it, the voltage 
drop increases in it.


Changing the supply voltage will change the current flow through the 
same conductor resistance and affect the voltage drop in it.




-Original Message- From: Walter Underwood
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 10:20 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly died

There is a point which could be made -- the percentage voltage drop is 
bigger at 12V than at 120V.


If the voltage drop on your power supply wire is 2V for a given current, 
that is the same regardless of the supply voltage. With a 120V supply, 
the wire will deliver 118V and with 13.8V it will deliver 11.8V.


So the same voltage drop can matter more at lower supply voltages.

Note that I'm ignoring the difference between AC and DC and skin effect.

wunder
K6WRU






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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Filters for mixed JT65 and JT9 HF

2013-10-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I believe that figure of 3400 Hz is the AUDIO bandwidth which is equivalent 
to an AM bandwidth twice that, or 6.8 kHz.  If I am correct, then you can 
most certainly take advantage of your 6 kHz AM filter which will limit your 
broadcast audio bandwidth to 3.0 kHz.  The 15 kHz filter will get you an 
extra 400 Hz.of audio, but is probably not practical due to the excessive 
bandwidth.  Save that one for FM.


73, Charlie k3ICH



On 10/7/2013 4:51 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 10/7/2013 4:39 PM, Bob wrote:

Just be aware that current DSP firmware in the K3 limits the receive
bandwidth to something around 3400 Hz. So even if you have a wider
filter, like the 6 KHz AM filter, you will not be able to utilize the
full 4 KHz bandwidth of WSJT-X for JT65/MT9 modes.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Current Drain When Off

2013-10-16 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Ur right, probably an auto-ranging Ammeter (???)

73, Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2013 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Current Drain When Off



Hi Jim - you must be misreading the meter by several decimal points :-)

We just measured several K3s in the lab and they both draw less than 5 mA 
when off.


Eric
elecraft.com

On 10/16/2013 10:37 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
I just measured my fully-loaded K3/P3.  They draw 1.94A on and 4.3 mA 
off.


Alan N1AL


On 10/16/2013 10:07 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

I recently set up four solar panels and a pair of 6V golf cart batteries
to run my station. When I first set it up 6-8 weeks ago I was getting 35
Ah per day. Now with the sun lower in the sky and the panels shaded by
my tall trees, it's more like 25 Ah/day.

The batteries didn't seem to be holding a charge, and I thought they
might be defective. Then someone noted that K3s pull some current when
they're switched off, so I just measured mine. Sure enough, when
switched off, my oldest one is pulling 420 mA and the next oldest one is
pulling 350 mA. The combined load is 18.7 Ah/day! That load, combined
with a a few hundred mA for antenna switching relays is what's draining
my batteries.

Is there a fix for my K3s short of an external switch to disconnect them
from the battery?

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Power On Function and Firmware 1.61

2013-10-25 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Personally, it is a small price-to-pay for not accidently running down my 
internal batteries when carrying the packed radio.


You can even choose which two fingers you want to use too.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: hessls hes...@yahoo.com

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 12:01 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Power On Function and Firmware 1.61


I use my KX3 only in a fixed environment.The need to push two buttons for 
Power On can be rather clumsy.Can see need in portable op but is there a 
work around for just one button Power On operation?
Also I installed firmware MCU1.61/DSP1.23 .For those who use AM,which is 
probably few, the firmware now makes AM transmit useable on the KX3.Thanks 
Elecraft!!

Cheers..Larry
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Re: [Elecraft] Extra K2 parts - enamel wire

2013-11-11 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I use the old wire-wrap wire for track repair on PC boards.  It's perfect 
and strips easily.  Not sure if it's still available though.  I can send a 
hank if anybody needs some.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com

To: Art Bross acbr...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Extra K2 parts - enamel wire


The beading wire is a great source.. however.. it is insulted or coated 
with a not so easy to remove enamel... so care must be taken to remove 
that BEFORE trying to tin it. It has a bit more tinsel strength that soft 
copper, and works rather nice, once you get the tinning correct.


Have a great day,


--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy





From: acbr...@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 10:18:46 -0700
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Extra K2 parts - enamel wire


Check out any local beading store. They have multi colored enamel wire in 
standard gauges on very small reels. My wife does beading so I have an 
unlimited supply.


Art

KC7GF


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Checking coax jumpers before soldering

2013-11-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I remember seeing a chart somewhere that listed cable loss vs. SWR into an 
open (or was it shorted?) coax.  Just open or short one end, measure the 
SWR,  plug that value and the length into the chart to read the loss. 
Admittedly, this would be difficult for a cable already installed, but it 
would be an easy way to check an unknown piece in the junk box.


Anybody remember where that chart was published?

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: bill conkling n...@widomaker.com

To: Joel Black w4...@charter.net
Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Checking coax jumpers before soldering


I have used 50 ohm BNC 'terminators' with adapter to verify coax.  Start 
with terminator on analyzer, should be flat VSWR over wide band.  When at 
other end of coax should be same.


...bill nr4c




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Re: [Elecraft] Importance of good coaxial jumpers

2013-11-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
We should make a distinction between temperature controlled and 
non-temperature controlled irons/guns.  I have used a Weller TCP 40 watt 
pencil iron with a wide 700 degree tip to solder ¼ brass bolts !  The big 
Weller  D550 guns (250/325 watt) are not temperature controlled but can make 
heat a lot quicker.


73, Charlie k3ICH




- Original Message - 
From: Eugene Balinski euge...@nni.com
To: Carl Clawson clawso...@gmail.com; elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Importance of good coaxial jumpers



I also use a 40W Weller with good results.

The 25W do not work well and tend to melt the center
conductor.

73
K1NR


On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 20:59:14 -0800
Carl Clawson clawso...@gmail.com wrote:

I guess I'm contrary, but I find that a 40 watt Weller
iron with a 1/4 inch
tip does just fine. If your tip is too big you just make
a mess trying to
get it down into the holes. I filed down the tip on a 100
watt iron so that
it fits, but it doesn't work any better than the 40 watt
iron and it's
harder to handle. And I do them by the book. Strip,
twist, and solder. I
never found that any of the published helpful hints and
tricks did anything
but make the job harder.

73, Carl WS7L


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's

2013-11-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH


It makes an extremely rugged and reliable connection.  You could literally 
support your entire body weight from the cable without pulling it out of 
the connector.


Alan N1AL



I agree,  try THAT with an N connector.

I have never concerned my self with the fact that the center insulation 
might melt.  I simply make sure that the cable and connector are held 
motionless during the soldering AND cooling process to follow.   So what if 
it softens a bit, it'll solidify again as it cools. Like most hams, I have 
installed many hundreds of UHF connectors over the years on RG-58, -8x 
 -213.   Every failure has been due to my not catching a single strand from 
the shield.


I like the idea of cutting the tinned braid with a tubing cutter.  That's 
probably a LOT better than my flush-cutters which tend to cause the hairs.


Admittedly, I DO use N connectors on anything above 2 meters.

73, Chas 


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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's

2013-11-13 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
My computer has a very special key that I had custom made for me at great 
expense.  It is labeled DELETE. I find that I use it quite a lot which 
makes it worth much more than I paid for it  Obviously not very many people 
have ordered this convenient option.


I can offer private instruction on how to get the best use of this marvelous 
added function if that would make things more pleasant for you..


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: WM3M w...@live.com

To: b...@wjschmidt.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's



Yes,
Stupid me, I signed up for wrong email list, I thought this was an 
Elecraft

email list?
Not a list for cables, connectors, how to solder..
Emory WM3M

-Original Message- 
From: Dr. William J. Schmidt, II

Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:39 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's

So far I've counted 96 posts on soldering connectors onto coax.  Really?


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ

Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch
Staunton, Illinois

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proper installation of PL 259's

On 11/12/2013 8:42 AM, kd7gc wrote:

They are very expensive, some in excess of $100 each, but they have very

low loss, and they are sealed well against WX.  When I order baluns or
switches, I always specify that they must be made with 7/16 DINs, and I 
have

never been disappointed with their performance.

I'm trying to understand, Alan, so could you please. define
performance, and please tell us in what application, at what
frequency, and how you actually KNOW their performance.

Unless you're using them in critical small signal applications at UHF,
I'd call that a very poor allocation of financial resources.  I can
think of many better ways to spend $100.  The loss through a quality
PL259 or N connector is negligible in most real world applications, and
there are simple and effective methods of waterproofing them.

BTW -- the nicest male N connectors I've found for RG8/213-sized cable
are made by Andros Engineering, a machine shop owned by a ham.  They're
a 2-piece connector, with both center and shield rigidly assembled to
the same part to which you solder both center and shield, then screw the
outer shell onto it. Very easy to do, and zero possibility of shield
migration.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Loss of signal

2013-11-20 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
When comparing similar size cables or connectors, the one with the smaller 
inner diameter will be the highest impedance.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: George Danner gdan...@windstream.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Loss of signal



Bill,
Another issue with BNC connectors to take into account is that 50 ohm  75
ohm BNC male connectors have a very slightly different diameter on the 
male
center pin. The larger one (don't remember which one) can expand the 
female

center socket. If you switch to the smaller version male after using the
larger one, you may get an intermittent connection. You can tighten the
female with a dental pick.
We mixed connectors when TV stations switched from UHF to BNC for video. 
We
found this issue years later! All BNC males are not the same. I make sure 
to

use 50 ohm BNC connectors in the ham station for this reason.
73
George
AI4VZ

--
From: Bill W bw39...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 9:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Loss of signal

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reply. Yes that crossed my mind but the cable I use now was
suppose to be from the new batch. I called and got replacement from
Elecraft Parts after earlier problem. I think this cable has been in use 
for
better than a year or more and nothing has changed. I will switch cables 
as
soon as I can find or make a new one. I was just curious if anyone else 
had

a similar problem crop up.
Thanks again,
Bill - W0BBI



--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Loss-of-signal-tp7580978p7580989.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Loss of signal

2013-11-20 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Does that mean they're interchangeable?

Chas

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Loss of signal


Charlie,

Your information about BNC pin size diameter used to be true but not so 
anymore.


These days the BNC center pin size is the same for 50 and 75 ohms.
The quote below is from 2004 so this change took place a long time ago.
See:
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/newsgroups/viewtopic.php?p=157284

73 de Brian/K3KO

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 11:25 pmPost subject: Re: BNC centre 
pin size for 75 and 50 ohm sockets 
Fred f...@nospam.com schrieb im Newsbeitrag

news:4119d8e2$0$206$db0fe...@news.zen.co.uk...
Quote:
I have access to some 50 ohm BNC sockets. However it must mate to a 75
ohm
plug. Since we are talking about video frequencies here I'm not worried
about mismatches etc.

What are the dimensional differences between the 50 and 75 ohm sockets?

Can anyone point to dimensioned drawings of both types including pin size
etc?



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Re: [Elecraft] Important Document

2013-11-25 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Anybody been getting a rash of fake ad emails from a .me   (dot me = 
Montenegro) suffix site?


I get a couple every day, but they seem to be waning.

Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Michael Dobson vze3x...@verizon.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Important Document



DO NOT FOLLOW THAT LINK!!


It takes you to a Romanian Identity theft website.


Looks like Stan's Gmail account was hacked.

73,
Mike WA3KYY

On 11/25/13, R Stanley Sutton wrote:

Hello ,

I am sending you this document through Google Share Application . Please
view the Important document i upload using Google.doc i want you to see 
*click

here* http://fotoart.vespasianlungu.ro/gdoc/index.htm and log on with
your email for immediate access to view.

Thank you.

Stan
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 116, Issue 4

2013-12-03 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

AND, if you find yourself with TOO much, you can always buy a pet OHMEATER.

Chas


- Original Message - 
From: WILLIAM DAVIS bruceda...@me.com

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 116, Issue 4



I always express power in ohms. ;-)



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-09 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I'd take good old Jones Plugs any day over APP's, for all factors, current 
rating, ease of use, reliability, cost AND re-usability.


Soldered connections (no crimps) and they have simple locking ears that are 
easier to use than the Molex squeezer.


But then again, I'm a dinosaur wishing for a situation that will never be 
(kinda like our country now).


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement



Jeff,

I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the APP 
connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically used by 
the YakIcKenwood gear.


Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of 
either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to separate 
the connector.  A bit of slack in the cable should prevent that condition.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com 
wrote:

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory installed 
APP's both in the radio and on the cable.


I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's and 
they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under actual 
portable operating conditions.


Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have here are 
indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've with similar 
issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))


In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that were 
soldered into the PCB!
Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the connectors 
but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I presently own, the 
APP's are not up to snuff.
They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the rigours of 
operating portable in the bush and other adverse environments.
Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is 
considerably tougher.


I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also detailing 
similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt that I will be 
getting more.


I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved 
connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any 
country as they are just too unreliable.


As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and 
flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of an 
emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I really 
want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something decent 
installed.


So my question stands, what are my alternatives?




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Re: [Elecraft] Internal Antenna Tuner and SPE Expert AmplifierQuestions

2013-12-09 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
The only possible situation where the connection you describe would function 
is when the INPUT SWR to your amp is not good.  This is a quite common 
method of matching HB amps where their input impedance isn't THAT bad and 
the builder doesn't want to bother with a separate set of switched input 
matching networks.  An external tuner, or one inside the amp, such as an LDG 
for example is used to match the tube(s).  However,  in order to do this, 
you have to let the input tuner do it's thing only when you have a good 50 
Ohm dummy load on the amp.  THEN, after the input is matched, you can switch 
in your real antenna  tuner and adjust it for best SWR to the antenna.  At 
this point, it is essential that the input auto tuner is NOT still trying to 
find a match.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Internal Antenna Tuner and SPE Expert 
AmplifierQuestions




Mark,

The short answer is no.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

2013-12-11 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500.  How much would you 
expect to pay for a really good crimp tool?


Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer.  Some people say 
regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution.


Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. 
Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to 
use these things.


Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?

Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth.  (pincon at erols 
dot com)


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement



On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for  6 years now, with no 
problems at all


Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use 
them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets 
powered from low voltage DC.


- all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the 
APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)


All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, 
black, and green shells and all three sizes of  inserts in quantity. I use 
the green ones for chassis bonding.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones

2013-12-26 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I've never tried noise cancelling headphones, so my one question is, does 
anyone detect ANY effect to the desired audio?  In other words, any 
Noise-Blanker  effects or coloration of the audio?
I would suppose that, since they're designed for music, the noise cancelling 
function is transparent, right?


On the very few flights I've taken recently, I successfully used my old Sony 
MDR-7506's.  Maybe I don't know what I'm missing by NOT using a noise 
cancelling set.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2013 2:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling Headphones



True noise cancelling headphones will cut noise far, far beyond anything
acoustic isolation from ear pads can accomplish.

I have a pair of Audio-Technia QuierPoint ATH-ANC1. They are on ear 
types

so I didn't recommend them to the person asking for ones that cover the
ears. They are very comfortable for me.

When I fly, as the roar and whine of the big jet engines invades the 
cabin,

I just switch them on and all the racket becomes a quite background purr.

I often wear them for the entire 11 hours from the west coast of the USA 
to

Europe, even if I'm not listening to any programs.

The active circuitry in true noise-cancelling phones inverts the sound
arriving and so actually cancels it out.

The circuit takes a few seconds to adapt so when the attendant brings my
drink she has no trouble waking me.

73 Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] Who had an LP-Pan for sale?

2013-12-31 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

I'm trying to find the person who listed an lp-pan 2 panadapter for sale.

If it's still available, I would like to purchase it.

I must have deleted the original message.

73, Charlie k3ICH

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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 For Sale

2013-12-31 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Steve. 

I would like to purchase the LP-PAN2 that you listed for sale.

Give me your mailing address and I will get the payment out to you in the next 
mail.

Or, if you prefer, I can pay immediately via paypal.

73, Charlie k3ICH

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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 input protection

2014-01-03 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I saw a suggestion somewhere for using a small grain-of-wheat bulb across 
the 2nd antenna's lead as you gradually increase transmit power.  If I 
remember correctly, the bulb I used was a 5 V @ 50 mA lamp, typical of those 
used as LCD screen illuminators.


I tried that with a 600 ' Beverage that is at least 75 feet from any 
transmit antenna and was very surprised to see the bulb glowing brightly on 
a couple bands with only 50 watts into the LPDA up at 55'.   The Beverage is 
fed with a 9:1 transformer and is about 8 feet off the ground, running away 
from any active antennas.


Try it, it's quite an eye opener.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Arie Kleingeld PA3A p...@xs4all.nl

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 input protection



Steve,

the subRX of the K3 has its protection (an rf triggered relay if the power 
coming into the rx is too high).


I've used the K3-KPA500 on a beam and I had a diversity vertical connected 
to the subrx quite next to it. No problem at all.
It all depends on the coupling of the antennas. Try and see how you go at 
your QTH; the subRX is protected.


73
Arie PA3A

AD0ES schreef op 3-1-2014 15:23:

Hi all,

My KRX3 is on the truck and due tuesday.  Quick question:  I will be 
running the main receiver on a receive only antenna
fed via the KXV3A and the subrx via its bnc aux.  These antennas are 
quite close to the xmit antennas.  Should I use
any sort of attenuation and/or external TR switch on either of these 
receiver inputs?  I eventually will be running a KPA500

full power...

tia,
Steve AD0ES


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Re: [Elecraft] P3/VGA question

2014-01-14 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Just curious if it is within the realm of reason to have completely 
different displays (future upgrade???) on the P3 vs. it's VGA output?  I 
know they're slightly different now, since there's a longer waterfall on the 
VGA than the P3's own display. So much so, that I never even look at the 
P3 unless I need to push one of it's control buttons.  Curiously, I was 
originally hoping for a P3 version that did not even HAVE an internal 
display.  Also, P3's spectrum display is a single trace whereas the external 
monitor shows a more typical fill in under the line.


73, Charlie k3ICH

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Re: [Elecraft] Monitor for P3

2014-01-14 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
About three years ago, I bought a cheap little 720P 15 Insignia (Best Buy 
brand) TV for not much over a hundred bucks.They've dropped considerably 
in price since then.  Along with being an HD TV, it has HDMI, VGA, Component 
(RGB), S-Video and composite (yellow) switchable inputs.  It even has a 
TOS-LINK connector, but I haven't tried that yet.   An outboard VGA switch 
selects P3 or shack computer.  If there's any RFI from it, I've never 
noticed.


I'd spring for a TV rather than just a monitor.  They typically have more 
inputs and just a good a display.  Plus, they're great for keeping track of 
your favorite team while playing radio. A quick punch on the remote and 
you're back the spectrum display.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Mike Flowers mike.flow...@gmail.com

To: 'Elecraft' Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Monitor for P3


I bought an ASUS VS Series VS197D-P Black 18.5 5ms LED Backlight 
Widescreen

LCD Monitor, and told the store I was going to bring it back if it was an
RFI offender.



I unboxed it, attached it to P3, powered up the K-Line and listened to the
background noise levels up and down each band with the VS197D-P on and 
with
it off.   I found that this monitor generated no appreciable noise on any 
of

the Amateur Bands.   It's been sitting on my operating desk ever since and
has been a great visual extension to my P3.




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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any service 
work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS (Japanese 
Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different from the 
Phillips or Frearson (Reed  Prince).  Compatible screw heads are usually 
identifiable by a single depressed dot or an X to one side of the cross 
slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and Japanese 
imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.


73, Charlie k3ICH



- Original Message - 
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com

To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become 
worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges --  
any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will 
result in stripped screw heads more often.


Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular) and 
clean up those old screwdrivers.


73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw 
Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers 
that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if 
not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a 
static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the construction 
manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read them again 
and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get help 
until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part again so 
you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order the 
manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you need to 
plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket then use 
as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling 
something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it a 
little then be sure to
tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful 
and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every 
step is important and must be done correctly.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.

73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] Would anyone like to see an all-mode VHF/UHFoffering from Elecraft?

2014-01-31 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH


I've been on 50 MHz since the time when DXCC was impossible since there were 
not 100 countries in the world that had six meter privileges *.  I even have 
a QSL from a pirate in Scotland  (back in the 70's ??)  before they got the 
go ahead after ch1 TV was shut down in Europe.


Every propagation mode known happens at one time or another on 50 MHz. 
Moonbounce, E skip, Tropo, F2, Aurora, Meteor scatter, Back scatter, and 
good old Ground wave if you're diligent. There are many beacons all around 
the world below 50.1.  Check there first before you say the band is dead.


Two meters is right behind.  About the only mode I haven't heard there is 
F-2.  There's even E skip on 220 Mhz.


There's LOTs to do above 50 MHz.

That said with all the enthusiasm, I can't really see Elecraft making a 
dedicated VHF/UHF radio when they already have some very good transverters 
available.  I would have to agree that effort to fill some holes on the P3 
would be of more interest to me.


73, Charlie k3ICH

*
140 countries confirmed on six meters, plus WAS, WAC,  and 37 states 
confirmed with NO moonbounce on two meters from here in Virginia.



- Original Message - 
From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2014 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Would anyone like to see an all-mode VHF/UHFoffering 
from Elecraft?




Ted,

You really expected a VHF contest to sound like Field day on the HF bands? 
That tells me that you do not regularly operate VHF-ssb.


I have been pleading with the FM repeater HT hams for years to explore the 
fun of VHF-ssb/cw/digital modes with multi types of propagation and the 
response is they don't have the time, the cash, the know-how, the property 
that allows antennas, etc. etc.


There is plenty VHF multi-mode radios available plus a wide assortment of 
transverters, plus very economical surplus multi-modes from past years. 
Radio supply is not the problem.  With the exception of 2m-eme using 
digital modes there is just not much interest by the usual VHF users and 
especially new hams.  Satellite use has dwindled due to lack of cheap 
launch capability so new satellites are essentially orbiting repeaters for 
the most part.


A radio with the capabilities you request will be in the $3000 class (If 
not more).  A K3/10 + transverters will accomplish this if you want 
Elecraft equipment at less than that (I think).  Or one could buy the KX3 
and add the 2M module when it comes out.  Then add transverters for 222, 
432, 1296.


In 2012, I sold my FT-847 to purchase a 222-28 and 432-28 transverter to 
go with my K3/10 which I already had 144-28 and 1296-28 transverters.  The 
K3 + transverters make a way superior combo than any multi-mode VHF/UHF 
that I have seen.


I am QRV from 600m to 3cm!

73, Ed - KL7UW
PS:  I worked three stations in the Jan. VHF Contest!

From: Ted Edwards W3TB w3tb@gmail.com
To: Dave d...@g0dja.co.uk
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Would anyone like to see an all-mode
VHF/UHFoffering from Elecraft?
Message-ID:

caghfmtjuqkp_3ncbyi32sude+5bhrqtqszunuj7mvc5uveu...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Yes for CW.
This would be a GREAT way to get our Techs beyond the limits of operating
on the repeaters.

Some years ago, I had expected the June/Sept VHF Contests to replace Field
Day as the big participation event for local clubs as the new Techs would
discover the many other ways to use their licenses.   It didn't happen, 
but

this might help move along greater participation on VHF/UHF.  Good idea!




73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] first contact QRP...

2014-02-06 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Or a cheap guitar.

Right Wayne?

Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Roy Koeppe k...@ncn.net

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] first contact QRP...





And don't buy your child a cheap microscope; it could forever discourage a 
budding interest in science viewing a blurry image.


Roy  K6XK





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Re: [Elecraft] A confession

2014-02-09 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
You want product obsolesance.?...How about the Icom's progression of new  
improved starting with the IC-756, followed by the  IC-756PRO, IC-756PRO 
II, IC-756PRO III , and finally (?) the  IC-7600.


I'll admit, they suckered ME into ithad 'em all.

Got a K3/P3/VGA now.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Scott Manthe scott.man...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A confession


Think about your problem this way: When Yaesu wanted to upgrade the 
FT1000MP, they brought out the more expensive and poorer-performing Mark-V 
Field (sorry if I offend, but the difference in RX performance between the 
two has been long noted). When they decided to grade the Mark V Field, the 
came out with the more expensive and poorer-performing FT2000. When they 
needed to upgrade the FT2000, they came out with the better-performing and 
MUCH more expensive FT5000. See a pattern here?





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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Can I request that we try to stick to the king's English here?

Admittedly, we hams have our jargon, but lets limit our foray's into today's 
POP culture terminology as much as we can.


Are we kool with that?  Groovy !

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Griffin k...@comcast.net

To: 'Gary Hunt' kc...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!


Will someone please pass me the coolade so I can comment :-)

73 Jeff kb2m

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Hunt
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 2:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

K3 7956 is sick enough to score FT5ZM on 17CW/SSB, 20CW/SSB, 30CW, 40CW/SSB,
and 80CW, with 100w, inverted L and a cobwebb. Of course that's not to say
any other 100watt radio wouldn't have worked them also but since we're
bragging up our K3s.lol.

73

Gary
KC9EE

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Wire a small grain-of-wheat incandescent light bulb to the unused antenna 
feed and fire up the transmitter.  If the bulb lights brightly, you need 
some protection.  Admittedly, this is a crude test, but it can point to a 
problem and takes into account all those variables in the calculations.  Try 
all bands and start at low power, otherwise, you may blow the bulb before 
any relative results can be gleaned.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Bill Turner dezrat1...@wildblue.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question


I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage would 
be done by the situation originally posted.


Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach. There are too many 
variables in a particular situation to risk  depending on calculations 
when expensive equipment is endangered.


If  you must go ahead with your situation, I strongly suggest, as others 
have done, that you measure the interaction rather than try to calculate 
it.


73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 through TSA Security ?

2014-03-10 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Four times and they never batted an eye.  Sniffed it once for drugs, but 
that's all.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com

To: elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 11:49 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 through TSA Security ?


Has anyone taken a KX3 through TSA security with carry-on luggage?  Are 
there any issues?  Domestic flight only in this case (WA -- AZ).


Thanks,

73, phil, K7PEH
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Re: [Elecraft] Button of no return

2014-03-13 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Well, I'll don my asbestos suit and dump on the power poles.

They're too flimsy, over-rated, over priced, non-re-useable, non-standard 
( red on the right or it is??   You cannot plug in any of the Molex or later 
connectors such that the polarity is reversed and you don't need a $40 
crimper to install them.)


I use power poles ONLY when they can't be avoided.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Roger D Johnson n...@roadrunner.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2014 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Button of no return


Careful, Bill. You're about to be flamed by the Power Pole Police! You 
know, those
that insist that insist that it takes 2700 lbs of force to disconnect PPs 
or that you, in

your stupidity, have assembled the connectors improperly!

I've had them come apart several times when futzing around the back of my 
desk

sending my K3 into never-never land!

73, Roger



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Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here....

2014-03-15 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
That doesn't answer my question. Are they REALLY   0.137795 inches or is 
3.5mm just a rounded off way to describe the same physical part using two 
different measurement standards?


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk

To: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


3.5mm is 0.137795 inches, 1/8 = .125, that's quite a difference in terms of 
a good contact.

-- 73 de M0XDF
Sent from my iPad


On 15 Mar 2014, at 13:16, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:

Are they REALLY different, or is this just a convenient way to identify 
them using two measurement systems?  Not trying to start a fight, but I 
think it's worth knowing. Anybody know for sure?   I have found that a 
particular miniature phone size plug to be very difficult to insert, so 
it might be a fact.


Sorta like a .38 cal is actually 0.357 and very close to (wimpy) 9mm.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: David Ferrington, M0XDF 
m0...@alphadene.co.uk

To: ab2tc ab...@arrl.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


3.5mm  1/8 are not quite the same size, so if you've put a 1/8 plug in 
a 3.5 mm socket, you might find this problem.


I have no problems with my K3.
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
--
If a man will begin with certainties, he shall end in doubts; but if he
will be content to begin with doubts, he shall end in certainties.
-Francis Bacon, essayist, philosopher, and statesman (1561-1626)


On 13 Mar 2014, at 19:21, ab2tc wrote:

6. 3.5mm phone (mono and stereo) - never come across a pair that is not
intermittent when wiggled. Junk!


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Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here....

2014-03-15 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
OK,  THAT's exactly the answer to my question.  There really ARE two 
different standard sizes.


I guess the only way to know which ones you have in your hands is to measure 
them.  I don't think I could tell the difference by eye.


Maybe if I knew I had one of each in my hands it might be possible to see 
the difference.


Thanks, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com

To: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


There really are 2 different standards, ie there are 2 different parts 
that are manufactured and it's a pain.  If a plug is hard to push in, then 
it's probably not meant for that socket, even if it looks like it should 
be.


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


That doesn't answer my question. Are they REALLY   0.137795 inches or 
is 3.5mm just a rounded off way to describe the same physical part using 
two different measurement standards?


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk

To: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


3.5mm is 0.137795 inches, 1/8 = .125, that's quite a difference in terms 
of a good contact.

-- 73 de M0XDF
Sent from my iPad


On 15 Mar 2014, at 13:16, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:

Are they REALLY different, or is this just a convenient way to identify 
them using two measurement systems?  Not trying to start a fight, but I 
think it's worth knowing. Anybody know for sure?   I have found that a 
particular miniature phone size plug to be very difficult to insert, 
so it might be a fact.


Sorta like a .38 cal is actually 0.357 and very close to (wimpy) 9mm.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: David Ferrington, M0XDF 
m0...@alphadene.co.uk

To: ab2tc ab...@arrl.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


3.5mm  1/8 are not quite the same size, so if you've put a 1/8 plug 
in a 3.5 mm socket, you might find this problem.


I have no problems with my K3.
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
--
If a man will begin with certainties, he shall end in doubts; but if he
will be content to begin with doubts, he shall end in certainties.
-Francis Bacon, essayist, philosopher, and statesman (1561-1626)


On 13 Mar 2014, at 19:21, ab2tc wrote:

6. 3.5mm phone (mono and stereo) - never come across a pair that is 
not

intermittent when wiggled. Junk!


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Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here....

2014-03-17 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I just measured a bunch of them (all 2 cond)  with my handy-dandy Harbor 
Freight digital micrometer and they range anywhere from 3.3 mm to 3.6 mm, so 
the comment about a lack of manufacturing standards is obviously 
appropriate.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Gerry leary gerrylear...@icloud.com

To: Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2014 7:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Powerpole police here


Some of the old one eighth inch plugs out of the 60s will not make contact 
in the newer jacks. These are the two conductor type. So I think that 
years ago a 1/8 plug was really a 1/8 plug.


Sent from my iPhone this time


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Re: [Elecraft] Why is KX3 phase noise so much less than the K3 ?

2014-04-02 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Better hope there's no Flex's transmitting too close to your location 
either.


Chas




, Bill W2BLC wrote:

Can anyone really hear the difference between any of the top rated rigs
(Sherwood list) in the real world (not in a lab)?

Bill K-Line



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M module?

2014-04-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
3 - 4 watts is fine with me on 2M.  I know it'll drive the big TE Systems 
amp to 400 watts out because I could do that with my (long gone) FT-817.



73, Charlie k3ICH




- Original Message - 
From: Lance Collister, W7GJ w...@q.com

To: Ray Sills raysil...@verizon.net
Cc: Elecraft Mailing List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3-2M module?



Hi Ray et al,

Many thanks for the status update!  I agree it is certainly a good thing 
to wait and fine tune the hardware before officially releasing the 
product, and Elecraft does a great job of that.   I will look forward to 
hearing more next month ;-)


I don't operate 2m FM myself, but it would be nice to have a backup 2m 
exciter.  I think if it could do 5w in JT65B mode, it should be able to 
drive my solid state amp up enough to bring my 8877 up to 1500w output on 
EME.  ;-)  Provided it is very stable


VY 73, Lance

On 4/7/2014 2:10 PM, Ray Sills wrote:

HI Lance:

Yours is a frequent inquiry, but you should know that there was a 
redesign of the the module's board to address an issue that showed up in 
field testing.  At the moment, the replacement version is in field 
testing, so the expectation is that all is now OK, and that there should 
be an announcement very soon.  If I were a betting man, I'd wager that 
Elecraft would want to be taking orders at Dayton.


Granted, it does seem like it's taking forever to get this item to 
delivery status, but Elecraft has been rigorous about making sure that 
their shipping products are as good as they can be.  This item is all 
hardware, so it really needs to be just right when it ships.  With the 
KX3 itself, there are fixes and additions that can be part of a firmware 
revision, but that's not true here.


I'm still on the fence about the 2M module.  I'm sure it will be good, 
but at this point, I have not been doing any 2M operating, except for 
using my HT with a local club net.  And, I don't need the module for 
that.  I also have an FT-817 which works nicely on 2M SSB.. so there is 
very little pressure for me to consider the module.  But then... who 
knows?  :)


73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211

On Apr 7, 2014, at 9:57 AM, Lance Collister, W7GJ wrote:

Has anybody heard anything regarding the timing of the KX3-2M module for 
the KX3?  Is it still planned for high enough stability for JT65B mode 
and a maximum power of 10w? TNX and VY 73, Lance*

*

--
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ, E6M, 
TX5K)

P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

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--
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ, E6M, 
TX5K)

P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

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Re: [Elecraft] P3SVGA Option - Split Screen?

2014-04-08 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I wanted that from the first.  My suggestion was effectively a  P3 with no 
LCD screen but that required an external monitor.


As the song goes You can't always get what you want

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Slava Baytalskiy sla...@nullserv.com

To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2014 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3SVGA Option - Split Screen?


You know what I would buy in an instant? The P3-SVGA card but without the 
P3 chassis. If that was available as an add-on to the K3. 
Bring-your-own-display sort of an option. Have a VGA or dvi or maybe even 
HDMI (much smaller) in the back of a K3.

Is that possible?

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS

On Apr 8, 2014, at 10:31 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


Ted,

The SVGA option for the P3 requires a dedicated monitor screen.  It 
cannot be shared with the output of a computer.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/8/2014 7:43 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
I am thinking of adding the SVGA option to my K3-P3.  It would be neat 
to have a single wide screen monitor running split screen, with the P3 
display on one side and a logging/spotting program on the other - or if 
necessary, alternate screen keyed from the computer keyboard.  Anyone 
know if this can be done (by someone who is neither an electrical 
engineer nor a computer whiz)?


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Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?

2014-04-16 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

I would suggest the TE Systems 1452G.

Same here on the K144XV power out.  6 - 8 watts max which is fine for this 
amplifier.


I have found that all the TES amps don't need anywhere near their rated max 
input to achieve full output.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Michael Eberle mtebe...@mchsi.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for a 2 meter amp?


I use a Mirage B-310-G with my K144XV. It is rated at 3W in 100W out, but 
the power curve on Mirage's website goes up to 8W in with 100W+ out.  My 
K144XV only puts out about 7-8 watts so I have never had any problems with 
over driving it.


Mike
KI0HA


On 4/15/2014 8:26 PM, Harry_Yingst wrote:

I installed the internal 2 meter module in my K3 so now I'm in the
market for a good Amplifier to bring it up to at least 100 watts.

The K3 puts out 10 watts so the amp needs to be 10 Watts input

Any Suggestions?

Thank you







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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Suggestions-for-a-2-meter-amp-tp7587334.html

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Re: [Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage

2014-04-16 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Connect a grain-of-wheat light bulb across the unused coax and gradually 
increase transmit power.


I know this is a rather un-scientific, crude test, but simply put, you're in 
big trouble when it glows!


I tried this with a 600 foot Beverage that is, at it's closest point,  50 
feet from any transmit antenna.  On some bands, I could run a kW but  on 
others bands,  the bulb was bright at 150 watts out  I now have a Collins 
RF Overload Protector  (622-0908-001) permanently in the Beverage feed !


Better to use a GOOD antenna switch with published maximum isolation, or 
unplug the unused antenna.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Julie Royster jsdroys...@nc.rr.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2014 11:06 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] adjacent antennas and potential radio damage


Thanks to those who wrote me privately as well as those who replied on 
this

list (KL7UW and  K4NH ) regarding the possibility of damage to one radio
from another radio transmitting on a nearby antenna.  For the benefit of 
all

I am pasting below highlights of the useful information I received.
MANY THANKS!  I learned a LOT from you kind folks.
Julie KT4JR


Dick at Elecraft said:
At 5 watts it's usually not a problem, at 450 watts, you want to have a 
bit

of room (maybe hundreds of feet) between antennas.  The radios have some
protection from overdrive.  Carefully planned with antennas end to end or
facing different direction with enough space it's possible to share a band
with multiple K3s.  But if the antennas are coupling sufficiently, it can 
be

destructive to the front ends of the radios.  I can't offer any guidance
better than you've receive thus far. Every multioperator contest or Field
Day station has to deal with this problem, and there are solutions, but 
they

require some effort, either bandpass filters to keep energy from nearby
transmitters on other bands, or antenna placement planning, or some
combination.

AB9CA/4 said:
There are certain orientations which might allow simultaneous operation 
of

the two stations. If one antenna is a vertical and it can be placed on a
line perpendicular to the mid-point of the Vee you should be OK. This is
when the base of the vertical lies on the vertical part of a 'T' 
arrangement

with the Vee forming the horizontal top of the 'T' (looking down from the
air). Place them as far apart as possible. There is minimum interaction in
this configuration. With chokes in place and proper dress of the feedlines
you could get maybe 60 dB of isolation between them...

(On Field Day) Our club has used two stations on the same band, usually 
20m,

with success. One on CW the other on Phone.  We did it with two wires
arranged as I mentioned earlier, in the 'T' configuration.

Especially note that damage can occur even if one rig is turned off.
The antenna is still connected internally with power off. To be certain of
avoiding damage it is best to disconnect the antenna from any rig not in
use. And when you connect them be certain of what band the other station 
is

on (and make sure you are not on it!).



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Re: [Elecraft] Just built my new P3

2014-04-18 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH


What are these red LEDs that are flashing inside my new P3?



It's been proven that the guys at Elecraft are using alien technology in 
their products.  In the recent words of a famous personality in DC:  You 
don't want to go there buddy!


73' Charlie k3ICH





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Re: [Elecraft] Echo and feedback un SSB

2014-04-20 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

An all this time I thought it was the shower.

Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Echo and feedback un SSB


Singers sometimes practice singing right into a corner so they can hear 
themselves more accurately.


wunder

On Apr 20, 2014, at 5:19 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:


On 4/20/2014 4:16 PM, Dave Hachadorian wrote:
I can't hear any delay in the K3 monitor, and I am VERY sensitive to 
that.


I have the capability to measure it, but I have not done so. If it's 
going through any DSP, there will be some, probably a few msec. I would 
not expect it to be a problem.


The difference between what we hear through bone conduction and the 
actual sound of our voice is mostly the difference in frequency response 
between the two paths.


We can get a better approximation of how we sound to others by talking 
straight into a hard wall at a very close distance. Now, our ears hear 
our voice bouncing off that wall with very little loss.


There's a phenomenon called precedence effect that was first documented 
by Joseph Henry around 1850 (the guy whose name is on the unit of 
inductance in recognition of his inventions involving magnetics much 
earlier). Precedence effect describes the characteristic of human hearing 
that if we hear the same sound from more than one direction, we will 
hear it as a single sound, coming from the direction from which it 
arrives FIRST even though a later arrival is louder. There's a limit -- a 
loudness difference of more than 10 dB will break precedence.


Yes, long delayed echoes can make it difficult to talk or to play music. 
In live sound reinforcement, delays are produced by DSP, and also by the 
time it takes sound to get from speakers over a stage down to the 
audience. Delays more than about 35 msec will start causing fatigue or 
discomfort, and I've heard very professional announcers slow down and 
stop talking with delays in the 80-100 msec range.


73, Jim K9YC
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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Cables, again

2014-04-21 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Check with MCM Electronics.  They have all sorts of pre-made cables from 
simple phono plugs to much more complicated.  Many times I can buy the 
pre-made cable with molded on connectors cheaper than I can buy the 
connectors.  I've used their HDMI, VGA, XLR etc. cables, as well as various 
adapters and never had a bad one.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Bruce Beford bef...@myfairpoint.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Cables, again



You don't need to be a EE to figure this out. All (S)VGA cable are
straight-thru, in the sense that none of the pins are cross connected.
However, a standard (S)VGA cable does not have all 15 wires connected from
one end to the other, and often the ground pins are wired together.

A simple Google or Bing search of SVGA pinout will show you what I mean.

GL,

Bruce N1RX

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Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW

2014-04-30 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I always thought the phrase Copy That was a holdover from either pilot or 
military lingo, much like saying Niner for the number 9.


73, Chas


- Original Message - 
From: Barry w...@comcast.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW


I have QSOed with W4BQF at 70-90 WPM (thought it's been a few years...) 
The

CW sounded fine, though don't know if Tom was running his K3 at the time.
Personally, I never use QSK.  I find it annoying to have the noise pop in
between characters.

Regarding the anti-contesters, to each their own.  What grates on my 
nerves

is hearing the newer hams start every transmission on 2m FM with Copy
that, the VHF version of please copy...  :-)

Barry W2UP



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Re: [Elecraft] Them and others

2014-05-01 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

An off-topic comment about off-topic comments..

99% of the time, they're enjoyable.   However, if there's still the related 
off-topic posts going on for weeks afterwards, they're down right 
obnoxious !


Personally, I erase most of the stuff I type when I wait a few minutes 
before actually sending it.   After a while I realize I'm part of the 
problem and delete the comment.  If I feel that it is just too good NOT to 
send (Hah) I'll send it directly to one person, not the whole group.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Rick Commo rick.co...@frontier.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 12:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Them


Well, it may be OT; but it’s fun for this person who was 9 years old in 
1954, and his Mom took him to see his first sci-fi movie, which was Them”! 
I still remember parts of the movie.


-rick, K7LOG

On Apr 30, 2014, at 9:06 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote:


I have DVDs of almost all of the great 1950s SciFi movies.  I think my
collection is about 20 DVDs.  All the greats and some really stupid movies
that they they too are classics such as Teenagers from Outer Space or
I Married a Monster From Outer Space.

Is this an Off Topic Topic?

73, phil, K7PEH

On Apr 30, 2014, at 8:33 PM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:



Them! is available (Them! are available?) for download for free at
https://archive.org/details/PhantasmagoriaTheater-Them1954176

A favorite from my youth as well.  Worth watching when 10's dead.

Ted, KN1CBR




--

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2014 15:42:13 -0700
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Them
Message-ID: 53617c45.7010...@foothill.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

The tunnel where the ants nest was in the movie was about 2 mi from
where I grew up.  They were storm drains into the Los Angeles River, we
used to play in them.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 4/30/2014 2:27 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

The phrase Over and Out was a key part of the brief training lessons
for the young female scientist near the beginning of the movie Them!.
She was being taught proper protocol of using the radio while searching
for
giant ants in a helicopter.

K7PEH






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Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW

2014-05-01 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Back when I worked at the old Microlog Corp in Gaithersburg MD in the late 
70's, we found that a lot of rigs couldn't be keyed much faster than about 
50 WPM.   Key click filtering etc., made mush of the faster CW.A keyed 
string of dots looked like the output of a half wave rectifier !   To get 
around this limitation, in order to run 100 WPM CW, we'd revert to AFSK 
keying, copying the Mark frequency only.worked like a proverbial charm. 
It was like having our own private encryption system as nothing but a 
computer assisted copy system could decipher it.We never really asked if 
it was legal though.


And, to my knowledge, there was and still is NOTHING out there as good as 
the decoding algorithms those programmers wrote.  (The main one just 
happened to be the president of the company.)   I  tested every piece of 
competitive equipment I could get my hands on to prove this point.  Microlog 
was the absolute king-of-the-hill for CW copy, hand sent, bug sent or 
otherwise.  In order to fool it, you had to purposely send rotten code.


73, Charlie k3ICH





 - Original Message - 
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com

To: Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW


 He said that during the entire QSO neither one of them ever got the 
other station's call correct.  :=)



Now, that made me laugh.

-phil, K7PEH



On May 1, 2014, at 10:07 AM, Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net wrote:


On 05/01/2014 09:41 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

I wonder where Dave got this idea from. I'd like to suggest it is
wishful thinking.



On 5/1/2014 16:22, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/1/2014 9:15 AM, dave wrote:

But I suspect that the winners do not regularly run high speed.


I agree with Dave that it can be counterproductive to run high speed in a 
contest.  You lose too many contacts with stations who can't copy that 
fast.


I used to be able to copy 50 wpm pretty consistently in my head and I 
have a 40 wpm W1AW code proficiency certificate.  But it makes no sense 
to go that fast in a contest unless you are content to work only other 
QRQ stations.


I think around 30 wpm or so is reasonable.  Even operators who can't go 
quite that fast can probably get your callsign after listening for a 
minute.  Then when they call you at 18 or 20 wpm you can slow down to 
work them and then speed up again.


Years ago Chuck W1WPR, the chief op at W1AW, was listening to a QSO on 40 
meters where they were motoring along at 70 wpm or so (obviously using 
keyboards to send).  So Chuck recorded them on the reel-to-reel tape 
recorder and later played it back at half speed to see what they were 
saying.  He said that during the entire QSO neither one of them ever got 
the other station's call correct.  :=)


Alan N1AL
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Re: [Elecraft] Limit topics in email

2014-05-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Same here.  I like it just the way it is now.

73, Charlie k3ICH

- Original Message - 
From: Brian North br...@chirpytom.plus.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Limit topics in email



I agree entirely with your comments Slava.

'73.

Brian  2E0BWQ.

Sent from my iPad


On 7 May 2014, at 12:58, Pierfrancesco Caci p...@tippete.net wrote:


I disagree wholehartedly. I can easily read this mailing list on any
type of client, including my cell phone. I sure don't miss any eye
candy, icons, animations or anything else. If a thread doesn't interest
me, I hit delete until satisfied. If I need to look up past
informations, google and the 2 mail archives most likely provide me the
answer. To me, this mailing list, as it is,  provides great customer 
service.







Slava == Slava Baytalskiy sla...@nullserv.com writes:



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question

2014-05-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

About the same as going from a dipole to a two element beam

Chas
- Original Message - 
From: AG0N-3055 mcduf...@ag0n.net

To: sla...@nullserv.com; elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question





Is there a tremendous difference between legal limit and about half of it


One third, not a half.  The KPA is 500W.  Legal limit is 1500W.

Gary
--
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question

2014-05-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Well, if you want a kilowatt station the Icom IC-7600 and PW-1 offer the 
same functionality with a built-in antenna matching circuit.


Curiously, I am getting about 400 watts out of the PW-1 driving it directly 
with the KX3 at 12 watts out (no ALC).


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question


Exactly! The K-Line amounts to a fully automated (no tuning or knob 
twisting) 500 Watt HF station. Last time I saw that was a Halicrafters 
Tornado.


I changed my entire radio desk to create more storage and shelves from the 
space formerly used by a large tube amp and the large tuner I used with 
it. The K3 and P3 take about the same space the previous HF rig took and 
the KPA500 and KAT500 take just slightly more space than the K3 by itself. 
In other words, the K-Line is extremely space efficient.


Bill K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Roofing filters are misunderstood

2014-05-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Good point.  A true roofing filter would be in the antenna line.

Repeaters have roofing filters, typically in the form of an extremely high 
Q resonant cavity.


Chas
- Original Message - 
From: David Cole d...@nk7z.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Roofing filters are misunderstood



On Sun, 2014-05-11 at 22:06 -0700, Bill Turner wrote:

I have always thought that roofing was a marketing ploy to imbue it
with some kind of magical powers.

Bill,
These aren't the filters you are looking for...  Move along...

Sorry, I just had too inject that at this point in the discussion!  It
just seemed too funny not to...

To get back on topic,

As soon as someone here said they are 1st IF filters, all questions
about them were answered...  THANK YOU whoever said that.




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Re: [Elecraft] Dayton hotels/motels

2014-05-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Try any of the online hotel bookers, Expedia, Hotels.com, Priceline etc. 
There's plenty of rooms in Dayton in the $50 to $80 range.  It's not like it 
was 30 years ago when they'd sell out in February.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Slava Baytalskiy sla...@nullserv.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Dayton hotels/motels



Hi everyone!
Our camping idea fell apart at the last minute and we now have 3 adults 
looking for some sort of hotel/motel accommodations for the Dayton 
Hamvention.

Just wondering if anyone has any cancellations or something.
Please contact me off list.

Any other hotel suggestions are welcome as I'm totally unfamiliar with 
that area.


Thanks!

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS
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Re: [Elecraft] OT 4M

2014-05-21 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Yeah, that was SUPOSSED to happen, but in true guvmint fashion, it didn't 
quite work out that way.

(Where have we seen THAT before?)

There's still a LOT of analog low-band TV, so the chances of a 4M ham band 
over here in the colonies, is just about dead.


The 72/75  MHz RC band is limited to very low power, (100 mW ???) so I doubt 
if similar limitations would be of much use for communications


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: MontyS mon...@mindspring.com
To: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT 4M


Joe,

I thought all the analog TV channels were de-allocated when we went all
digital.

Monty K2DLJ

-Original Message- 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV

Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 10:27 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT 4M


In order to be of use a US allocation should match that of the rest
of the world - approximately 70.0 - 70.5 MHz.  Unfortunately, that
is right in the middle of US TV Channel 4 and there are quite a few
authorizations on Channel 4.  See: http://www.w9wi.com/channels/4.html

Protecting the grade B contour of each authorized channel 4 station
would make any 4 M allocation off limits in much of the US.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-05-20 9:16 PM, James Duffey wrote:
I would like to see 4M released for ham use, not necessarily for 
repeaters, but rather for weak signal use. There are many times when the 
MUF goes above 50 MHz, but doesn’t reach 2M. 70 MHz would be very useful 
for sporadic E. Meteor scatter would still be good there, not as good as 
50 MHz, but much better than 144 MHz. EME, with WSJT, should be 
significantly easier than 50 MHz. With a limited number of 144MHz and up 
ops here, 70 MHz would really help the VHF/UHF contest scores in this 
area. The whole state of NM has a 50W limitation on 432MHz, so we are 
limited as to contacts on that band.


Amateur use of 70 MHz should be able to coexist on a sharing basis with 
current users, with perhaps some limitations near critical users, if there 
are any. It is an issue that is pretty far down the priority list for the 
FCC or the ARRL though, so it will be a while. - DUffey KK6MC

--
KK6MC
James Duffey
Cedar Crest NM





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Re: [Elecraft] Computers in the Stone Age

2014-05-28 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Don't forget how revolutionary the Commodore VIC-20 was with all of 3.2 K of 
RAM.  We (Microlog) made a plug in called the AIR-1 for the VIC that allowed 
CW  RTTY communications.  I wrote a complete production test program in 
BASIC that required no other test equipment but plugging in the AIR-1 and 
running the tape loaded test program.  It checked the CW copy, aligned the 
AFSK generator and verified CW  PTT keying, all in that 3.2 K of RAM with 
neat graphic indicators on the screen for the production testers.


Needless to say I REALLY got fancy when I had all of that extra memory to 
play with on the later C-64.  It was not the full 64K but LOTS more than the 
VIC.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Cozens ke...@ve3syb.ca

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2014 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Computers in the Stone Age



Someone wrote:

Desktop computers did not come into being until the advent of the IBM
PC in the 1980s.


(Among?) The first desktop computers were the S-100 bus based machines. 
First, the Altair 8800 announced on the cover of Popular Electronics 
magazine in January 1976, and its later popular variant the IMSAI 8080. 
They were in boxes along the size of 17 rack mount sized boxes with 
high-amperage power supplies.


Other early desktop computers that came along not long after were the 
Apple I and II lines, and the Commodore computers such as their PET.


Josh W6XU wrote:
Maybe he's remembering running DR-DOS on the Apple II? Required a Z80 
card.


PC-DOS/MS-DOS/DR-DOS were all for the IBM PC and compatible computers. The 
plug-in card for the Apple II and later computers that had the Z-80 CPU on 
it was so that you could run CP/M. I have one for my pair of Apple 
computers.


The plug-in card and floppy disk system used with the Apple II could be 
thought of as the K2 of its day. It may seem quaint today but the disk 
system was a marvel of engineering in its simplicity and elegance.


--
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/   |Nerds make the shiny things that 
distract
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  | the mouth-breathers, and that's why 
we're

| powerful!
#include disclaimer/favourite | --Chris Hardwick
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Learning the code

2014-05-28 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

NO !

Start with the long characters FIRST.   We (at Microlog) developed an 
automatic Morse Trainer for ( an unnamed guvmint agency ) where we simply 
automated their technique.  The first four characters they taught, if my 
memory is correct, were L, P, Q  C.  The last ones to learn on the list 
were E, I, T,  M


The logic is such that when first learning the code, if you hear a figure 1, 
you will change your mind four times.is it E, A, W,  J, or finally the 
figure 1.


This method teaches you to learn the sound of each character rather than 
what it looks like printed as dots  dashes.


Proof of the pudding.my son passed his Novice code test after just two 
weeks of 20 min per night starting from scratch (NO Morse ability at all to 
start.).


And yes, the characters were send at 15 WPM rate with enough space to equal 
5 WPM.  Curiously, when asked to send, he would snap out the letters at 
around 12 to 15 WPM on a hand key because that's how he heard them.


73, Charlie k3ICH 


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KXFL3 dual-Passband Roofing Filter

2014-06-02 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
So, you told her to go ahead and re-decorate the bathroom  (with a new 
shower curtain from Wal-Mart) right?


Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 1:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] [KX3] KXFL3 dual-Passband Roofing Filter


My wonderful wife said, Go ahead and order a KX3. Happy Birthday!, so 
now I am working on options. How valuable is the KXFL3 dual-Passband 
Roofing Filter? Should I order it now, or see if I need it and order it 
later?


73, Bill, AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz|Web security is like medicine - trying to do good for
408-356-8506   |an evolved body of kludges - Mark Miller
www.pwpconsult.com |

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 MARS mod, showing a virus

2014-06-04 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
OT, but I use the old StopZilla (AVM-2013)  program which was the ONLY one 
that found and fixed that popup telling you that you need to pay to have it 
removed. Norton  McAfee said my system was fine.  Then, after about two 
minutes, the pop up popped up again!
StopZilla bagged it and I've never had a problem since I installed it.  It's 
not free, but you get a lifetime purchase and free updates which happen 
about once a week as they keep up with the latest malware/spyware etc.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2014 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 MARS mod, showing a virus


You are very luck, Phil -- assuming you run Windows. I just spent three 
days fixing a neighbor's Win7 computer that was full of trojans, viruses 
and malware. I *think* finally got it.  He, also, had no anti-virus 
software.


I installed a (free) virus scanner and an annit-malware program so he 
should be OK. I have four instances of Windows (one is 8.1) and do the 
same on mine.


Mac OS X seems to be another story; my two Macs have never had a virus or 
malware problem


Phil W7OX

On 6/4/14, 7:48 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
I don't use any antivirus software and haven't in over 10 years.  Never 
had a virus or a malware problem of any sort during this time.


73, phil, K7PEH



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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day tips

2014-06-18 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH



I concur with all of the tips except the saying “Don’t waste your time with 
SSB on FD”.



I know this borders on an executable offence by the Morse Inquisition Army, 
but I don't LIKE CW!


I did fine last year on Field Day running strictly SSB with the battery 
powered KX3 and a couple portable antennas.  No, I didn't set any records, 
but then again, this is not a hugely competitive contest. Maybe that's 
why it is so named.It's purpose is to exercise your, or your club's 
ability to set up and operate an emergency radio system.  The contest part 
of the equation is simply to substitute some purpose for the lack of the 
need for any real emergency communications at that time.


Burgers, beer and bugs are all part of the fun.

73, Charlie k3ICH 


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Questions

2014-06-20 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Operating without the P3 is like listening to the CD.

Running the P3 (and the VGA) with your K3  is like attending a live concert.

73, Charlie k3ICH


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Re: [Elecraft] Temperature Sensors

2014-06-22 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Personally, I can't WAIT until we endorse the metric system.  Then we'll 
only have ten months so we can completely eliminate those nasty January's 
and February's.


Chas


- Original Message - 
From: Mark via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2014 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Temperature Sensors



Don said:  “Yes, but you have to do a bit of math.”




…or use one of the most useful pieces of software ever written (for an 
engineer, anyway), Convert (http://joshmadison.com/).  I used it 
throughout my career which required skills in both metric and imperial 
systems.  Like Morse Code or learning a new language, it gets easy after 
you do it for a while, but usually conversion isn’t really necessary.  All 
modern electronic components are spec’d in metric.  Electronic power and 
temperatures limits have always been in metric units, even for old tubes, 
so it makes sense that Elecraft chose to display Deg. C.



Keeping a few key temperatures in mind really helps.  Water freezes at 0 
deg. C, 20 deg. C is about room temperature, 70 deg. C is uncomfortable to 
touch, and water boils at 100 deg. C and will definitely hurt to touch. 
Write this down, keep it in front of you.  Get familiar with a few 
component spec sheets for some of the components in your radio whose 
temperatures are displayed, and you will soon start thinking in “degrees 
Celsius”.



Learn, learn, learn.  It will keep you young!





Regards,


Mark
ars: KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] temperature sensors and convert -- now off topic

2014-06-22 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

What is the conversion factor from furlongs per fortnight to KPH?

Chas
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - it has spoiled part of my hobby

2014-06-24 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I think you have to consider the subject AND the fact that most of us have 
been guilty recently of prolonging an OT thread too long.


If the private responses you received have been to this actual subject line 
I think you can understand why most people would take that approach.


Now, if the subject were definitely on topic and consisted of a question, 
then it's more likely to generate list-wide postings.


73, Charlie k3ICH

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - it has spoiled part of my hobby


It is interesting the large number of emails I received - yet on one post 
was made. Is this how everything on this reflector is done? You can learn 
nothing when responses are made via private email. The answers and 
responses are all secret.


Bill W2BLC K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-26 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Don't rule out traps.

Also, the RF Connection and probably others, sell a nice stranded copperweld 
wire that has a black polyethylene insulation.  If I remember correctly, it 
is 13 ga and is ideal for antennas.  For all practical purposes, it doesn't 
stretch,  is fairly slippery  and only a little springier than hard drawn 
copper.


I use those double ferrule aluminum crimp on's that are designed for 
flexible wire cable to hold everything together.  I was concerned about them 
holding through the poly insulation, but the following antenna has been up 
for about ten years now.  It consists of a double (fan) dipole with a pair 
of 80 meter traps in the top leg for 160  80 M coverage and a pair of 40 
meter traps in the lower leg for 60  40 M coverage.  It is fed thru a 1:1 
balun with RG-213 and is tuned for resonance.  Basically, I operate SSB 99% 
of the time, so the antenna is tuned for that end of the bands.  An MN-2700 
tuner in the shack takes care of  small excursions from resonance.  It's 
only up about 50 feet, so performance is what you'd expect. It's not 
straight either and is sort of a lazy Z, being strung between two 55' 
telephone poles that are 105 feet apart.  The ends droop down at about 45 
degrees to tie-off points in trees.  A compromise? Yes, but it works.


73, Charlie k3ICH




- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees



On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon 
rope

between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
perform as well as the full length version.


If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you 
want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator?


Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 
20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good 
antenna, and is easy to build.


My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box 
store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it 
breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you 
have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use 
that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) 
for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into 
lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire 
fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in 
place by soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare 
copper of the long element.


The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should 
be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 
ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending 
on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 
80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213.


For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one 
end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my 
trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on 
the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen.


My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest 
that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the pants 
observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest 
with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, 
and 6M works pretty well.


For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the 
statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low 
tri-bander.


http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf

When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are hotter, he means that 
this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is needed 
to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron rope that 
was tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, actually). The 
extra ingredient was that it was wet. Duh.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
The professional Arborists use a cloth or leather bag filled with lead 
shot and something called tangle-free line or similar to throw up in a 
tree so that they can pull up a supporting rope for tree trimming etc.  From 
what I've seen, the bag is about the size of a tear drop shaped golf ball. 
The idea of the shot instead of a solid weight is to make the bag less 
damaging if it hits your house (or window) on the way down.


I have a neighbor who's son is an arborist, so I've watched him on several 
occasions.  It DOES take a bit of practice, but the line never seems to get 
tangled.


I tried this with a few lead fishing weights on some thin nylon line and it 
was a disaster.  The secret is to use a thick enough line so that it won't 
spin around itself and (mysteriously) tie itself in a knot way up in the 
tree.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees



On 6/26/2014 4:12 PM, Rick Bates, WA6NHC wrote:

This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in
the US


It's radio, Eric will probably see it as relevant, unless we overdo it, 
which we do at times. :-)



The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and
doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow
gravity to pull it down.  Should it comes later, the risks of
impalement can ruin the day.




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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA-100 to ICOM PW-1 amplifier

2014-07-29 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
You better make sure you have a reliable ALC connection in there somewhere 
because you'll smoke the PW-1 if you hit it with a hundred watts.  They 
normally take about 35 -45 watts drive for full output.


Why not try driving the PW-1 directly with the KX3?  I did and it works 
fine.  I don't get a KW out, but it's quite respectable power out with 12 
watts drive.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: George Rebong ke6t...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 3:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPA-100 to ICOM PW-1 amplifier


I used the RCA from the KX-3 to KXPA-100 adapter cable to connect the PW-1. 
I can not change transceiver selection on my PW-1 and the RX signal goes 
deaf/attenuated. Is there a setting that I can change to make my KXPA-100 
key my PW-1?


Sent from my iPad 3G
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA-100 to ICOM PW-1 amplifier

2014-07-29 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Just to clarify... use of ALC with the PW-1 is not to adjust drive power. 
That's a bad practice. You MUST use the ALC line because the amp uses this 
as a primary means of protection. Without ALC, a fault condition can 
damage the amp.


73,
Josh W6XU


Well, yes it is when connected to an Icom transceiver it is used precisely 
to control drive power.


I have the PW-1 connected as recommended in it's manual to an IC-7600.  My 
output control is set for about a hundred watts barefoot and 1 kW when the 
amp in enabled.   The output power when driving the PW-1 is far less than 
100 watts and the only thing controlling the drive is the ALC line.


Besides, I thought that's exactly what I said.

The proverbial fly in the ointment is that the I don't believe the KX3 HAS 
and ALC input.


Chas


- Original Message - 
From: Josh Fiden j...@voodoolab.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPA-100 to ICOM PW-1 amplifier


Just to clarify... use of ALC with the PW-1 is not to adjust drive power. 
That's a bad practice. You MUST use the ALC line because the amp uses this 
as a primary means of protection. Without ALC, a fault condition can 
damage the amp.


73,
Josh W6XU

On 7/29/2014 12:41 PM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
You better make sure you have a reliable ALC connection in there 
somewhere because you'll smoke the PW-1 if you hit it with a hundred 
watts.  They normally take about 35 -45 watts drive for full output.


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Re: [Elecraft] P3

2014-08-03 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Even if you manage to bring out the IC-7600's IF, the  problem is that the 
radio's  IF is around 64 MHz but the max frequency that the P3 can accept is 
about 33 MHz if I remember correctly.  Simply put, there's no easy way do 
connect a P3 to the IC-7600. (If anyone knows of a way, I'd sure like to 
hear about it.)


However, there ARE methods that will provide a much improved 
panadapter/waterfall display over what shows on the radio's screen.


There's an easy mod that uses a Mini-Circuits or other brand, two way 
splitter to bring out the IF scope signal.   You basically pull the coax 
line from the IF to the scope input on the board inside the radio and insert 
the Splitter such that one of it's outputs goes to the original scope input 
connector and the second splitter output goes to the outboard device. 
Usually a simple dongle SDR or LP-Pan  is used with a computer program for 
a much improved panadapeter  waterfall display.


Another somewhat more costly way is to use the same splitter between the 
Rx-IN  RX-OUT connector to drive something like and SDR-IQ or as I am 
doing, a QS1R  SDR receiver running SDRMAX V + Omni-Rig.  The SDR basically 
runs in parallel with the IC-7600 and Omni-Rig allows master/slave functions 
between them.  It's a lot of stuff to turn on, but you'll be rewarded with a 
spectacular screen of info.


73, Charlie k3ICH




- Original Message - 
From: anel...@min.midco.net

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 1:22 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] P3



Has anyone hooked the P3 to an Icom  IC-7600?
I also have the K3 and would like to share it on the IC-7600

73

Arlon Nelson W0TUP
North Dakota

My designated driver is 12BY7A
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Re: [Elecraft] Slow-scan TV (SSTV) display on the P3 and PX3?

2014-08-17 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Oh, you gotta try DXCC on 1.2GHz.

It the cat's meow and the bee's knees all rolled into one.

73, Chas


- Original Message - 
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2014 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Slow-scan TV (SSTV) display on the P3 and PX3?


Just offering observations in answer to Wayne's questions.  SSTV is not 
one of the modes I use.  Neither is EME, PSK31, and DXCC on 1.2 GHz.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 8/17/2014 7:44 AM, george fritkin wrote:

I will say it one more time.there are more hams trying for DXCC
on 1.2GHZ than operate SSTV
George, W6GF


On Sunday, August 17, 2014 6:01 AM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net 
wrote:



On 8/15/2014 2:56 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
  Hi all,
 
  Is SSTV demodulation/display something we should add to the long term
  wish-list for our panadapters? I hear SSTV signals in the 20-meter
  SSB segment pretty regularly, and I think it would be nice to
  eavesdrop on the visuals, in living color, with all the HF-induced
  idiosyncrasies. But we won't bother with this if I'm the only one
  who's interested.

You might try MMSSTV or MixW and just monitor 14230 for awhile before
putting any engineering effort into it.  I let MixW run on 14230 all one
weekend and then went back and looked at some of the images [MixW saves
all received images].  A surprising number [like half] were unanswered
CQ's with pictures of scantily clad women.  I haven't checked it in a
number of years.

There are some digital SSTV signals starting around 14233 or so ... I
don't know anything about them.
 
  If we did consider adding SSTV, we'd need to decide which SSTV
  format(s) to support. If there's just one that's reasonably
  universal, great. I'm pretty sure we'd start with just one, given
  limited engineering time.

There's a half dozen or more analog modes, most of what I decoded was
one of the Scottie's [there are several].  I suspect that, to be
attractive, your software would need to decode the digital burst at the
beginning and auto-select the mode like MixW does.

We all get to use whatever modes we want ... personally, I was bored by
SSTV and haven't looked at it in years.  YMMV however.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org



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Re: [Elecraft] P3 ref level: (was)RE: Slow-scan TV (SSTV) display on the P3 and PX3?

2014-08-18 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I guess any sort of mouse control of these and possibly other parameters is 
out of the question (???)


Chas


- Original Message - 
From: Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu

To: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 8:43 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 ref level: (was)RE: Slow-scan TV (SSTV) display on 
the P3 and PX3?



In addition to the below stuff, I'd like to be able to set an automatic 
reference level.  Seems like I am always changing it to keep the waterfall 
display looking right.

Cheers all,
Fred KE7X




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] A speaker for the K3

2014-08-27 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Scour the hamfests and buy a little metal cased, Radio Shack Optimus, 
(typically for under ten bucks).  I use them on all the radios in the shack 
and find them to sound better than of any of the high dollar speakers.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Fred Smith m...@totalhighspeed.com

To: 'Joe Subich, W4TV' li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] A speaker for the K3



Nice little speaker but worth a $100 more than the West Mountain Radio
COMspkr @$39 shipped?? I have found them to be excellent com speakers and
use them on several of my radios a K3/K2/IC-9100 not matching but I don't
the room for everything to sit beside all the radios either.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] A speaker for the K3

2014-08-27 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

I don't know of any Optimus speakers that are 45 inches deep.

Several different sizes of Optimus  Radio Shack branded speakers were 
produced over the years that all sound great.  Specifically the two sized 
metal cased units I have are 6½ X 4 X 4 and 7 X 4½ X 4¼.   These both at two 
way speakers having a small tweeter.  The older wooden cased one doesn't 
have a tweeter but is similar in size.


I'm not sure if they're still in production though.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Gerry leary gerrylear...@me.com

To: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] A speaker for the K3


Are you talking about the speakers that are about 4 inches wide about 7 
inches long and about 45 inches deep and I have the screw on bracket? The 
ones I am talking about are not powered but they do some excellent for their 
size


Sent from my iPhone this time


On Aug 27, 2014, at 5:53 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:

Scour the hamfests and buy a little metal cased, Radio Shack Optimus, 
(typically for under ten bucks).  I use them on all the radios in the 
shack and find them to sound better than of any of the high dollar 
speakers.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: Fred Smith m...@totalhighspeed.com
To: 'Joe Subich, W4TV' li...@subich.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] A speaker for the K3



Nice little speaker but worth a $100 more than the West Mountain Radio
COMspkr @$39 shipped?? I have found them to be excellent com speakers and
use them on several of my radios a K3/K2/IC-9100 not matching but I don't
the room for everything to sit beside all the radios either.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ


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Re: [Elecraft] Tuning your radio and amplifier to your amtenna

2014-08-28 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Yeah, I just hate it when my 3CX6000 amp kicks out from too much grid drive.

Chas


- Original Message - 
From: kd7gc kd...@q.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 12:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tuning your radio and amplifier to your amtenna



Hello Jim,  In major part I agree with your suggested method for tuning up
and amp, but I would never begin my tuning with an output from my
transceiver of 4 watts.  I have never heard of anyone suggesting that 
tuning

should begin with anything close to 4 watts.  I generally go thru 3 or 4
steps, but I start with my transceiver set to about 25 or 30 watts output.
I bring my drive up in say 3 or 4 increments until I reach my desired amp
output, usually in the range of about 60 or 70 watts of drive, at least 
for

smaller amps.  However, when I tune up my Henry 5K I don't exceed about 45
watts of drive because I would already be over 1500 watts out.  At 70 
watts

of drive I would be running over 3KW, or 3.5 KW on 40 or 75 meters.



HTH





Alan R. Downing

Phoenix, AZ



From: hf4me [via Elecraft] 
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7592596...@n2.nabble.com]


Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 7:15 PM
To: kd7gc
Subject: Tuning your radio and amplifier to your amtenna



Manual tuner - Manual amplifier:

Or, any tuner and amplifier - tune with low power and radio only to start.

I don't use tune unless I am using the internal tuner.  Set your tune
power setting to 4 watts, place your amp in standby, press xmit (xmit 
only,
not tune) get your tuner properly adjusted, press xmit to release, turn 
your


power output down to 4 watts, enable your amplifier, place your radio in 
CW

mode, tune to a frequency CLOSE to where you want to transmit - NOT on top
of other QSOs, use your CW key to cause the radio to transmit, tune your
amplifier and refine your tuner settings, let off the key every few 
seconds

to not heat up everything, if your are happy with the current settings,
increase your power out slowly as you watch it on each increase until you
have achieved the output power you are looking for.

1 lower your output power
2 Transmit only a few seconds at a time
3 Find an unused frequency - close is plenty good
4 Tune with your radio without any amp
5 When happy, enable the amp
6 Adjust settings
7 Increase power slowly
8 Readjust if necessary.
9 Tune to your target frequency

73, Jim

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Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

2014-09-09 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
A 'ZNR is a Zinc Oxide non-linear Resistor.  It is the mechanical 
equivalent of a Zener Diode.  It is a bidirectional (AC) device that will 
conduct when a certain level of voltage is applied across it.  They don't 
typically have as sharp a knee as a real Zener, but are very effective for 
what they do.  Basically , a voltage surge or transient  protector. 
Hopefully, they worked but are probably blown and should be replaced.


As for the rest of the stuff, I'm sure you'll find some more (inexpensive) 
things to replace and the system will come back to life.


Good Luck on the repair, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 1:23 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!


I just did one of the dumbest things I've done since I tried to swim across 
the Susquehanna river with all my clothes on. I survived that, but I need 
help with something else.


I just turned on a computer plugged into 230v with the switch on the power 
supply set to 115v. Result: bang, smoke, house breaker (16a) pops.


I took the power supply apart (it is a funny size so I have little 
confidence I could replace it). I found two obviously bad components: 1) 
an 8a fuse -- no problem. 2) something marked znr1 on the board, a 
component wrapped in heatshrink tubing. It was completely destroyed. Next 
to it is a similar part labeled znr2. I haven't removed it yet -- 
so I am not sure it is good. It might be the same as the first one and it 
might be marked under the heatshrink.


There is a bridge rectifier nearby which checks good. All traces look ok. 
I am hoping there is someone out there who is familiar with these supplies 
who can suggest what these are (zener diodes? What voltage?)
The board is made in such a way that it is difficult to trace the 
wiring -- but these parts are right near the power input.


--
Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

2014-09-09 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Maybe mechanical was not the proper choice of words.  What I was implying was 
that it is not a junction device as would be a Zener or an SCR.It is simply 
a chunk of Zinc Oxide that with the proper mix will start to conduct at a 
predictable voltage.

In that sense, it is more mechanical than a Zener.

Chas
  - Original Message - 
  From: george fritkin 
  To: Charlie T, K3ICH ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 3:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!


  There is nothing mechanical about a ZNR.  The electrical equivalent is back 
to back Zener diodes with a capacitor.  Some people call them Transzorbs or 
MOVs to get by trade marks.  The ZNR is a Panasonic trade mark


  George, W6GF



  On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 10:54 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com 
wrote:




  A 'ZNR is a Zinc Oxide non-linear Resistor.  It is the mechanical 
  equivalent of a Zener Diode.  It is a bidirectional (AC) device that will 
  conduct when a certain level of voltage is applied across it.  They don't 
  typically have as sharp a knee as a real Zener, but are very effective for 
  what they do.  Basically , a voltage surge or transient  protector. 
  Hopefully, they worked but are probably blown and should be replaced.

  As for the rest of the stuff, I'm sure you'll find some more (inexpensive) 
  things to replace and the system will come back to life.

  Good Luck on the repair, Charlie k3ICH


  - Original Message - 
  From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
  To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 1:23 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!


  I just did one of the dumbest things I've done since I tried to swim across 
  the Susquehanna river with all my clothes on. I survived that, but I need 
  help with something else.
  
   I just turned on a computer plugged into 230v with the switch on the power 
   supply set to 115v. Result: bang, smoke, house breaker (16a) pops.
  
   I took the power supply apart (it is a funny size so I have little 
   confidence I could replace it). I found two obviously bad components: 1) 
   an 8a fuse -- no problem. 2) something marked znr1 on the board, a 
   component wrapped in heatshrink tubing. It was completely destroyed. Next 
   to it is a similar part labeled znr2. I haven't removed it yet -- 
   so I am not sure it is good. It might be the same as the first one and it 
   might be marked under the heatshrink.
  
   There is a bridge rectifier nearby which checks good. All traces look ok. 
   I am hoping there is someone out there who is familiar with these supplies 
   who can suggest what these are (zener diodes? What voltage?)
   The board is made in such a way that it is difficult to trace the 
   wiring -- but these parts are right near the power input.
  
   -- 
   Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
   Rehovot, Israel
   http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Antenna ideas for a cheap ham

2014-09-14 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Don't overlook traps.  My low band antenna is a double (fan?)  dipole with 
80 M traps in one leg for 160/80 and 40 M traps in the other leg for 60/40 
coverage.  It seems to work fine at about 55 feet.


In an inverted V configuration, just install the legs at 90 degrees to each 
other for minimal interaction.   I did this for a 40/80 double V which also 
worked great with the top at 40 feet.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Wiley jwi...@gci.net

To: d...@w3fpr.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 3:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Antenna ideas for a cheap ham



Don -

Did you mean 80 meters and 30 meters? 40 meters and 30 meters should 
be OK, even if the frequency separation is not optimal.


- Jim, KL7CC



On 9/13/2014 9:31 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
I failed to mention another point with regard to fan dipoles.  Do not mix 
3rd harmonic radiators on the same coax.  In other words, stay away from 
combinations of 40 meters and 15 meters, and also 40 meters and 30 
meters.  They may work, but tuning problems are 'iffy'.


73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] very small 20A switching PS

2014-09-21 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Gamma something.

Basically, a bank of Super Capacitors fed by a 5 (?) Amp switching supply. 
And yes, VERY  small (  very expensive too) even when compared with the 
smaller 25 Amp switching supplies.  However, those larger supplies can do 
20 Amps continuously, but the Gamma can not.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Howard Sherer h...@lehigh.edu

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 6:50 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] very small 20A switching PS


A few years ago there was some discussion here about a very small 12 v 20A 
switching PSU with very low noise that was designed for radio use. I am now 
interested in one for use with my KX3  KXPA. Can someone point me in the 
right direction.


Howard AE3T

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Re: [Elecraft] very small 20A switching PS

2014-09-21 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Curiously, I have found that certain switching supplies can actually deliver 
quite a bit more peak, or very short duration current than their ratings 
would imply.  For example I was testing a TS-480 HX running from a 25 Amp 
Astron switcher and was getting the full rated 200 watts out momentarily 
with barely noticeable voltage sag.   At this level, the total supply 
current was around 35 Amps.  Now, admittedly, I did not look at the DC 
waveform on a scope, but the SSB transmit audio sounded fine which to me, 
implied it was clean.  I'll have to try again and look at the waveform. 
It'll have to be with resistor loads since I don't own the HX now.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] very small 20A switching PS



Gamma something.

Basically, a bank of Super Capacitors fed by a 5 (?) Amp switching supply. 
And yes, VERY  small (  very expensive too) even when compared with the 
smaller 25 Amp switching supplies.  However, those larger supplies can 
do 20 Amps continuously, but the Gamma can not.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Howard Sherer h...@lehigh.edu

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 6:50 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] very small 20A switching PS


A few years ago there was some discussion here about a very small 12 v 20A 
switching PSU with very low noise that was designed for radio use. I am 
now interested in one for use with my KX3  KXPA. Can someone point me in 
the right direction.


Howard AE3T

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Re: [Elecraft] HF noise.....10 M

2014-10-14 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Anyone have any idea what those weeblies are on ten meters?   They 
typically start high in frequency and flitter past the receiver then stop 
abruptly.  They sound like a very unstable oscillator, almost like there's a 
random (or encoded ?) narrow frequency modulation as they move lower down 
the band.  They are quite noticeable on the panadapter display and appear to 
have several rates of downward frequency shift.  Also, occasionally, a wide 
band hump for lack of a better word. will appear in the display and pop 
off a second later as quickly as it came.  I've tried tracking them down, 
but they all seem to not be coming from anything in close proximity to me.


I've heard these weeblies for many years.  They're not a QRM problem since 
they're only in the passband for a second or so and occur at about 1 to 5 
per minute. It's just that this is the first time I've been able to see 
them on the screen.  The display kinda reminds of the Quark capture displays 
we used to see.


73, Charlie k3ICH

- Original Message - 
From: Thorpe, Jeffrey jtho...@liberty.edu

To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] HF noise.30m


Does the CW signal show up on a particular schedule? Does it seem to 
repeat its transmission a lot?
It would be interesting to hear a modern numbers station like this - 
they've really become scarce these days since the rise of the internet.


Jeff
KG7HDZ
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Re: [Elecraft] High vertical

2014-10-20 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I'm assuming you DO know that MFJ now owns Cush-Craft as well as Hy-Gain. 
Check the addresses in their ads.


Starkville Miss.

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Vic Rosenthal K2VCO/4X6GP k2vco@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2014 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High vertical


The main reason is that the Cushcraft R8 was one of the antennas in the 
comparison report on verticals by N0AX and K7LXC (cost $20 but worth it) 
here:


http://www.championradio.com/HF-VERTICAL-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.3

The Hy-Gain AV-640 is very similar, but appears to have a little more top 
loading and is a bit shorter. It is also less expensive.


Incidentally, yesterday afternoon we had a storm with remarkably high 
winds. I went up to look at the antenna and had to take care not to be 
blown down. I was /very/ glad I had guyed it at two locations. I may even 
add a third set of guys.


On 20 Oct 2014 05:28, Robert G Strickland wrote:

Vic...
Any thoughts on choosing the Cushcraft over the Hy-Gain for a vertical?
...robert

On 10/18/2014 14:55, Vic Rosenthal K2VCO/4X6GP wrote:


I put up an R8 vertical on a small building (containing my shack) that
sits on the roof.




--
73,
Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Interesting K3 QRM problem

2014-10-23 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I'd go for a series tuned trap to ground.  That would seem to the least 
disruptive, if that's the right word, to your system.


I remember working at Vectrol in Rockville MD fairly close to an AM transmit 
antenna site.  We designed  built big three phase SCR controllers and of 
necessity, had to isolate any oscilloscope's chassis ground.You could 
always see the low level AM signal on the scope.  A similar trap worked, but 
it would have required dozens of them to cover all the scopes etc.. 
Luckily, when you're looking a 60Hz waveforms, we just ignored the BCI.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 6:58 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Interesting K3 QRM problem


I live about 3.3 miles from a 50 kW BC station on 1080 kHz. It is on 24 
hours a day, transmitting in Arabic, not that that matters.


I have two antennas: an R8 vertical and a Pixel Loop receiving loop.

With either antenna, I hear a wideband noise on my K3 that is synchronized 
with the program material of the BC station on the 14, 10 and 7 MHz bands.


I first determined that it was not affected at all by the attenuator in 
the K3. So I assume that it is not caused by front-end overload in the K3.


I noticed that if I listen on the Pixel Loop via the K3's RX ANT input the 
noise completely goes away when I unplug the R8 from the K3's ANT 1 
connector!


I also noticed that the noise is reduced when I bypass my amplifier or my 
SWR/wattmeter, which are connected between the ANT 1 connector and the R8. 
Reduced, but not eliminated.


I conclude that what is happening is that the BC RF is being picked up by 
the R8, and the diodes in the wattmeter and the amplifier and the K3 
finals are creating IMD products which I am hearing. The K3 seems to be 
the major contributor.


I am thinking that maybe the IMD products are being re-radiated by the R8 
and picked up by the Pixel Loop.


I tried one more experiment: I have a BC band filter which is used with 
the MFJ antenna analyzer when there are nearby BC signals. Sure enough, 
putting this in series with the K3 ANT 1 connector kills the noise. Of 
course I can't transmit through it.


Has anyone had a similar problem? I am thinking that the solution is a 
highpass filter or trap at this spot. I don't operate on 160, so it 
shouldn't be too hard to make.


--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Using tube transmitter with K3/KX3/K2 as receiver?

2014-10-24 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Yes...properly adjusted phasing type SSB generators have always been 
known for their excellent audio ala HT-37,  100V and now, even though it's 
performed in software, the KX3.


Maybe that chirp could be a new feature for Wayne to incorporate so we can 
pretend  *  we're operating a 30's hollow state xmtr.


73, Charlie k3ICH



*  I DO hope you don't think this was serious, but you never know how some 
comments are taken..



- Original Message - 
From: Alan n...@sonic.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using tube transmitter with K3/KX3/K2 as receiver?



 the TX1

Ah yes, the Scratchy Apache was a fine radio.  I had the SB-10 SSB 
adapter to go with it.  It worked great with a VHF transmitting converter 
because the low-level output from the SB-10 was just about the right power 
level to drive the converter.


I used to frequently get unsolicited compliments on my audio quality.  (No 
crystal filters in the transmit path.)


Alan N1AL



On 10/23/2014 05:57 PM, david Moes wrote:
the TX1 with High level plate modulation it will do way more on AM than 
the K3  I get about 110W carrier.  the TX1 didn't do SSB without 
additional hardware which I have but its not yet restored.   the real 
point is the vintage fun factor of restoring and getting on the air with 
110lbs of iron.


David Moes


VE3DVY,  VE3SD

On 10/23/2014 20:44, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Re: Heath TX1 power --
The Heath TX1 used a pair of 6146 output tubes, those normally run 180 
watts *input* power.

Modern transceivers (K3 included) are rated fort power output.
If one assumes a 67% efficiency (realistic) at 180 watts input, the 
output power will be 120 watts - that is about what one can get from a 
K3, although I do not recommend running the power knob to more than 100 
watts to keep IMD under control.


Sooo - I don't think the TX1 will crank out a whole more power It 
seems to me to be about the same.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/23/2014 8:25 PM, david Moes wrote:
Good question and answers here   I did the same as don suggested up 
till recently.   I have  a Heathkit TX1.  I had no receiver until 
recently when I got the RX1 to go with it.   bit of a crappy reciever 
but its still a fun to do the nostalgia thing.The TX1 will crank 
out a whole lot more power on AM and CW than the K3 and it warms the 
shack in the winter. Its not all DX and contests sometimes its fun to 
get out the old and tinker.   next up is 1930 era two tube  push pull 
UX-245 40m transmitter   now were talking chirp!.




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 on SSB Mobile

2014-10-31 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
My personal opinion is that you're setting yourself up for a very 
frustrating experience.  Yes, you will eventually make some contacts, but 
unless you'll be spending a lot of time in the vehicle, your contacts per 
trip will probably be rather low.


Technically, I agree with Rick that you need the outboard amp.  However, for 
what you'll pay for the amp, you can buy a radio that was designed for 
mobile.  I have two Kenwood TS-480S/AT's in mobile service and I find it is 
the best mobile rig I've ever used in over 40 years of mobiling.With 
tunable antennas such as the Tarheel that Rick recommended, I'd go for the 
HX version with 200 watts output.  It WILL make a difference, especially 
when you're operating on 20 M and below where even the best 8 foot antenna 
is a severe compromise.


Even though I've had a radio in the car for many years, I am not a serious 
mobile op.  I use an old solid SS bugcatcher mast and several Hustler 
resonators.  From experience, I operate 95% of the time on several bands (20 
 40 M) , so I never felt the need for an expensive all-band antenna and 
a couple resonators are adequate for me.   One trick I've found to increase 
their efficiency is to use the next higher band coil and add length to the 
top whip.  A 4 foot whip will work fine on 20 M  using a 15 M coil.  I also 
removed enough turns from a 40 M coil to also use a 4 foot whip for 
resonance.


Mobile operation can be fun, but QRP mobile, at least to me would not be. 
Now, if you're mainly interested in listening, then it's a different story.


73, Charlie k3ICH







- Original Message - 
From: Rick Bates, WA6NHC happymooseph...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 on SSB Mobile


Like any great station, most of the budget should go into the antenna. 
The Hustler will load and it might even radiate, but the resonators have 
low Q and are not very efficient.  I just gave mine away last week, I now 
use a Tarheel (screwdriver) on my truck.


If your budget insists on that choice, at least make double sure that is 
it as high as you can safely afford with everything bonded well to (and 
ON) the vehicle for the best efficiency.  If you get a screwdriver 
antenna, same rules but get the coil as high as you can and use a capacity 
hat instead of a tall whip.


Next you'll want to pay attention to how you power the radio.  Cigar 
lighters are notorious for noise because they are not well grounded and 
often have other devices (noise makers) on the same circuit.  Find a 
better power source, preferably connection directly to the battery 
(automotive self-resetting circuit breakers at the battery, fuses near the 
radio; BOTH leads to the battery AND both fused).  The battery will act as 
a HUGE capacitor, keeping a lot of noise out of the rig.


Once that is taken care of, you can set up your transmitter audio as 
you've been instructed and there are plenty of 'scopes out there to get 
accurate reports.  I might also cut the lows in the TX EQ which helps add 
more 'punch' but don't overdo that or it sounds like crap (pinched noise 
while breathing helium).


Don't forget that since it is a wider signal, SSB won't have near the 
energy you're used to (you'll need more power than you do on CW).


So it can be done.  The question (for you): is the time and frustration 
worth the fewer contacts you'll make (compared to a 100 watt mobile).  For 
me, life is too short for QRP but some folks thrive on it.  I'd seriously 
consider adding the KXPA with tuner into the mix.  Then you can consider 
one of the other larger amps...  ;o)


73 es GL,
Rick, WA6NHC




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2014-11-01 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
All the TE Systems amps I have that are rated for ten watts input will 
develop full, or very close to full rated power output with 3 watts drive.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions



On 10/31/2014 9:19 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
But, if you are wanting to do weak signal work with CW, SSB, etc. then 
the 2M option is a very good cost item and worth the small increment of 
$.


Yes, IF you can find a good amp that drives with the 3W or so that the 2M 
transverter produces. There was an '80s vintage Mirage 2W In, 150W out 
brick that did that, and I have one (but there's no way I'd sell it). :)


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] SVGA and K3

2014-11-21 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I have no recent experience with any of the digital modes, but I can tell 
you, the only time I even LOOK at the P3 is when I want to hit one of it's 
control buttons.  Personally, I never wanted the P3 to even HAVE a display. 
My preference was for it to require external  monitor.   I watch a old 15 
monitor connected to it's VGA output.  The display is much more ( and 
better ) than simply a bigger P3.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Leder k8...@hotmail.com

To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2014 9:41 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] SVGA and K3


Hello Elecraft, I know others have asked the same question, but I am going 
to ask it again. First, I am a dedicated Elecraft user with a K3, P3, 
KPA500 and a KX1. My K3 is pretty well loaded up, and I tell everyone that 
is the finest ham radio gear I have used in 50+ years of hamming.


The question: Will we ever see the ability of the K3/P3 SVGA to do the 
decode of PSK/FSK only to the P3 SVGA, and leave the K3 in normal 
frequency display mode on VFO B?


I do not have an SVGA adapter in my P3, with the small amount of RTTY/PSK 
I do, it’s not practical. But, this could change. I am totally happy using 
the P3 as is. If the decoded text could be directed to the SVGA adapter 
while leaving the K3 VFO B alone, I’d buy one today.


I am hoping this is somewhere on the ‘to do’ list, like PSK63 was. Is it? 
Any timeframe if it is?


I am looking for an excuse to get the SVGA adapter. Don’t tell my XYL.

Jim Leder ... K8CXM
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Re: [Elecraft] The Mighty KX3+KXPA100 Into a Hi-Power Linear

2014-11-24 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
I realize this approaches blasphemy, but just a quick note to say I'm 
getting a tad under 500 watts (steady whistle) out of an Icom PW-1 when 
driving it with my KX3 set for 12 watts out.  At this drive level, I didn't 
bother to connect the ALC but the amp still has it's SWR etc. safety 
features enabled.  It didn't like it when I had my 40M dipole selected and 
tried transmitting on 14 MHz.!


The PW-1's are going for around $3k and DO have a decent antenna matcher 
inside.   Admittedly, this makes for a much larger station package, but if 
you get a good deal on one, it might be an alternative.  Especially if you 
also own a K3.


That said, remember, if you're 20 over S-9 at a kilowatt, you'll still be 
S-5 at 100 milliwatts.


73, Charlie k3ICH

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Left-handed paddles

2014-12-01 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Curiously, you may find that you can send with the wrong hand by reversing 
the dot/dash, or as suggested, by backing up to the keyer and reaching 
behind yourself.


In the olden days when we logged with a pencil, the CW hot-shots would do 
just that.  They'd log with their right hand and send with their left.


I was surprised to find that I could do it too.

73, Charlie k3ICH

- Original Message - 
From: mcduf...@ag0n.net

To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Left-handed paddles





If you find yourself confronted with a paddle that's counter to your
handed ness, simply turn it around 180 degrees and reach over the top 
to

send.


Absolutely.  I've done this for years if I find myself in the midst of 
doing
something else with the sending hand.  You may have to slow down slightly, 
but

it is intuitive, despite how it sounds.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Request for EMI/RF Interference Opinion

2014-12-03 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
There's also a website where you can hear what all the new and old digital 
signals sound like.   Sorry, I forgot what it was, but it should be easy 
enough to find.


I'm still wondering what those weebles signal are on 10  12 meters.  Now 
that I have a waterfall display, they're easy to spot.


They typically start high in frequency and end abruptly, some moving very 
fast and some slowly.


Probably just a Barsoomian invasion fleet.

73, Charlie k3ICH




- Original Message - 
From: Steve Glickstein w4fmd.st...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Request for EMI/RF Interference Opinion


The ARRL has identified and unidentified noise files at 
www.arrl.org/sounds-of-rfi. The old VE3HLS website doesn't seem to be 
around anymore.


73

On 12/3/2014 6:27 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

Good input.  I would like that link also.
Mel, K6KBE

   From: Eric Norris norrislawfi...@gmail.com
  To: Ed G ed.n...@gmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Wednesday, December 3, 2014 2:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Request for EMI/RF Interference Opinion
Somebody on this list once sent a link to a page that has recordings 
of all sorts of RFI sources.  I used it to track down an ultrasonic pest 
repeller that drives me nuts on 6m.  If I can find it again I'll send it 
on.  It may have been an ARRL page.


73

Eric WD6DBM

Ed G ed.n...@gmail.com wrote:


Hello,
 I'm looking for someone with some background in EMI or RF 
interference
to look at some very odd noise I am experiencing on 15 meters (it is 
heard
on my K3 and KX3).  I can send a spectrum analyzer screen shot and a 
small
audio file to help. After trying all the usual things and having no luck 
I

need to get some opinions from someone with more experience; thanks!
--Ed--



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus 
protection is active.

http://www.avast.com

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Re: [Elecraft] For Sale Elecraft k3 P3 AND Icom IC-7600

2014-12-06 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Noise on 160 Meters

It may have been there for a while, but last night and tonight, I just 
noticed a strange sweeping/buzzing noise on 160M, centered around 1915 kHz. 
It's definitely coming from outside my immediate location because it I just 
got off 1913 where it was reported to be S-9 in Wisconsin, Michigan  
Tennessee.  Looking at the panadapter  waterfall display on the Flex, it's 
about 30 kHz wide with a rep rate of about 3 CPS.  It was S-9 late last 
night and early this morning, but barely audible at 0930 so I suspect it is 
propagation limited.


The best way to listen is in AM mode, tuned to 1915 kHz in the evening.

Anybody hear this at your location?

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: W9AKX m...@brucemicek.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] For Sale Elecraft k3  P3 AND Icom IC-7600



I'm very interested I the K3/P3. I'm a neighbor in Williston on Levy St.
Please call me at 352.528.0992. Bruce W9AKX.



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/For-Sale-Elecraft-k3-P3-AND-Icom-IC-7600-tp7575063p7595573.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Ultimate System

2014-12-07 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

How about sealskinsfrom a REAL Silkie.

Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Byron Servies by...@n6nul.org

To: Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org
Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2014 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ultimate System



Moleskine?  Fooey.  FieldNotesBrand.com all the way!

:D

73, Byron N6NUL

On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 4:44 PM, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org 
wrote:
I strongly recommend that you upgrade to Moleskine notebooks and 
Blackwing pencils. Contest logging deserves the best.


wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/

On Dec 7, 2014, at 3:01 PM, Orville orvi...@rubyglass.com wrote:

Or possibly consider the method I use which does more than any other 
product

currently available on the market, including contest serial number
generation, ultimatic keying, bug emulation, self-contained log book, 
rtty
function, call sign lookups to QRZ, automatic ADIF generation and 
updates to

eQSL and LoTW, and much more, All this is through the wonder of my Nr. 2
pencil and a Big Chief tablet in conjunction with my PC and K3.

(This system does not require any software updates to my K-line which
currently exceeds all my needs and expectations.)



73,

K5VWW



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--
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Feature Request?

2014-12-09 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Yes, hopefully when the Sensor Input is activated.  That would be the 
cat's meow or cool, for you 60's types.


73, Chs
- Original Message - 
From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 9:51 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 Feature Request?


Is it possible to have the P3 Display the transmitted signal(well as much 
as is available form the IF)


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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 question

2014-12-10 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Waddaya bet some entrepreneur makes a rear box so both can be a single solid 
unit?


Howzatt for cool?

Of course, there's always duct tape.

Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Howard Hoyt hh...@mebtel.net

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 12:18 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] PX3 question



Stan,

If you position the PX3 to the left of the KX3, the two units can be 
positioned within 0.5 of each other when using all right-angle plugs, 
which makes the combined chassis width 13.5.


We make a #33-100 KX3  PX3 DC Power Splitter which helps facilitate neat 
cable management for users of the KX3  PX3 
(https://proaudioeng.com/accessories/). If you are using straight plugs 
for your headset, you can position them as much as 2.25 apart and still 
use the splitter.


You could also reverse the positions, in which case if you are using the 
splitter the PX3 can be positioned up to 1.25 to the right of the KX3, 
and you would have to use a right-angle BNC for the antenna connector.


An additional 1 or more of separation can be achieved by removing the 
heatshrink and tape holding the two conductors of the splitter if 
necessary.


Cheers  73,

Howie - WA4PSC
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 question

2014-12-10 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Who said anything about behind?

That's the last place I'd want the PX3.

The previous email stated that the package would be about 13½ inches wide 
using right angle cables.


Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Bob N3MNT b...@hogbytes.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PX3 question


Nice idea, but mounting the PX3 behind the KX3 as one unit would impact 
the

cooling.



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/PX3-question-tp7595745p7595751.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1000

2014-12-24 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Put them in an enclosed (fan cooled) box with a 6AQ5 mounted on top.

And I have YET to have my afternoon egg nog ( Turkey Hill w/ Jack Daniels). 
OOO  Yeah.


73 es 58 Chas
- Original Message - 
From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com

To: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com; N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1000



Must be a slow news day!

Eric
elecraft.com

On 12/24/2014 9:14 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
I think a good hamfest Elecraft demo would be 8 KPA500s combined together 
with multiple (and some big) combiners/splitters.  Or, maybe 16 or 32 
KPA500s.




On Dec 24, 2014, at 8:33 AM, N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net wrote:

And Larry, will the combiner handle two or three KPA500's? :-)
Merry Christmas
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
Larry - K1UO

Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 10:16 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1000

On Dec 23, 2014, at 7:15 PM, KG5EJU kg5...@dlaab.com wrote:


Very new to Elecraft, just own a W2, but looking long at the KPA500.
Heard a couple rumors that a 1000 Watt unit was coming….

Not. Keep those ideas coming :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR
Just buy their new kpa ‘COMBINER’ and add a second KPA500 and you got 
your KPA1000! Merry Christmas I say...

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] General coverage hijacks ham band

2015-02-15 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
With all the major players  (BBC, Deutsche Welle) dropping off Short-Wave, 
what's left to listen to?  Years ago it used to be fun, but unless you're 
into 3rd world or religious radio ( Not that there's anything wrong with 
that.),  the choices are few.


I hear that even the low freq Euro broadcasts (153, 162, 171 kHz etc.) 
aren't long for this world either.  Can you imagine the electric bill to 
keep a 2 Mega-Watt LF station on the air?


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net

To: Bill Frantz fra...@pwpconsult.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2015 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] General coverage hijacks ham band



I actually like that was the best (adding bands between the Ham bands)
I have a Flex-1500 and it pretty much works like that, and even has a 
separate WWV band button.
I like to listen to SW and the way it is now I have to do a cleanup when 
I'm done.





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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Good time to buy Begali products

2015-01-25 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

I think there's a matter of semantics here.

I believe the comment that the exchange rate will not affect Dayton prices 
can be interpreted as Begali will NOT purposely raise their prices BECAUSE 
of the exchange rate.


As the dollar gets stronger, it means their prices will yield the same in 
Euro as before, except that it will take fewer dollars to buy them.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Hoge knowk...@verizon.net

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Good time to buy Begali products


Regarding Begali's prices at Dayton, they are directly related to the 
exchange rate. Also, you are not paying for shipping.


As for exchange fees, Paypal does a good job of making you dig for the 
information but you can determine the fee prior to making a transaction. 
To do so, follow these instructions: log in to your account, click on 
profile, click on my money, click on currency, enter the required 
information, then click on calculate.
The last time I made a payment in Euros, I think Paypal added about 2.5 
points to the exchange rate. Even with that, the cost of dollars to Euros 
is still at bargain levels compared to what it has been.I don't need any 
more keys but I must satisfy the K3's lust for a new one now and again so 
I, er, my K3 is sorely tempted to purchase another one given the current 
exchange rate.

73,Jim W5QM

On Sunday, January 25, 2015 10:25 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com 
wrote:



On line prices are in Euros, so a more favorable
exchange rate will reduce the price in $US -- if
ordered on line.

Phil W7OX

On 1/24/15 11:23 PM, Rick McGaver wrote:
If my memory serves me right their pricing is consistent at Dayton, HIGH. 
And no reflection on the Euro!

NK. 9G/7
Sent from my iPad


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Re: [Elecraft] Side KX and/or cover

2015-02-01 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Do most people who order the side panels also get the clear plastic cover?
I'm trying to decide what, or if  I need them.

Bearing in mind that I'd saw a dime in half if I could spend it twice.

I buy C-128 laser cartridges for my printer and they come in a fairly tough 
tubular bubble pack which just happens to be a perfect fit for the KX3,  the 
Comet CAA-500 analyzer, or a 15A MFJ power supply.  Each one makes for a 
package slightly smaller in diameter than a football (the brown pointed one, 
not the black  white one).  I don't do back-pack type operation, but they 
work fine for carry on baggage or the car trunk.


73, Charlie k3ICH

- Original Message - 
From: dyarnes w7...@cox.net

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Accessing KX3 buttons when using Side KX



Hi All,

I have the Side KX panels on my KX3, and it's really not a problem for me. 
As has been pointed out, there are fairly large slots on both sides 
through which you can access any of the buttons on either side row.  I 
suppose someone with especially large fingers might possibly have an 
issue, but in that case (or anyway!) just use the opposite hand!  It is no 
problem at all accessing buttons on the left side with the right hand and 
vice versa.  By the way, the left panel also has the two buttons 
identified that need to be pushed to turn the KX3 on or off.  So, they 
obviously thought about this when they designed the panels and determined 
the slot size.


One nice thing about the panels is that their size (depth) does not extend 
much beyond the main tuning knob.  So, if you KX3 fit snugly in whatever 
you were using for a case before, it probably will still fit with the 
panels in place.  I was slightly concerned about that when I ordered the 
panels, as I had already selected a carrying case, but there was no 
problem, before or after--and it is a nice, close fit.


Anyway, at worst I would say it is a minor concern.

Dave W7AQK


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