[h-cost] looking for Kathleen Mitchell
Hi, I've been sharing some of my doll costumes with Penny Ladnier and she suggested I get in touch with Kathleen Mitchell, who's on this list, to talk about tiny historical fashions. Kathleen, if you see this, will you contact me off-list? Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tiny gingham
By the way, if anybody is making dollhouse-sized costumes, this Imperial microcheck fabric is a really lightweight, fine batiste with 1/32 gingham checks on it. I had to stop myself at nine colors added to the hoard. https://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-plaid-fabric-imperial-micro-check-fabric.aspx Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian flat leghorn hat
Great catch! Thank you so much! Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 17, 2013, at 6:42 PM, Emily Gilbert wrote: I'm not an expert on this topic, but looking at the link to the fashion notes for the year, which refer to the curious and startling open-crowned coronet bonnet (toward the bottom of the left-hand column on that page), I'd say it's reasonably safe to assume that your leghorn does have a crown! Emily On 9/17/2013 2:11 PM, Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the leghorn flat, since the written description calls it a flat. (It's Fig. 2 in the descriptions here.) http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=185 So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was shaped, and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out! The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn flat has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits the wearer's fancy. http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=86 I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the definition of leghorn seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping to use millinery wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote: As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of. Also, that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat! On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.netwrote: Hi, Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm recreating as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with 19th-century millinery about the hat. It's an 1889 flat leghorn, according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one. (figure on the right): http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 Any thoughts? Thank you! (The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board and plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.) Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat nightmare. Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian flat leghorn hat
Thank you so much! This really helps! Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 17, 2013, at 7:25 PM, Katy Bishop wrote: I found an illustration from the Delineator from 1889, July that shows a similar hat, with the same off center wavy brim, from the back, and it seems to have a very low crown. Leghorn is a type of straw. Katy On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:42 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.comwrote: I'm not an expert on this topic, but looking at the link to the fashion notes for the year, which refer to the curious and startling open-crowned coronet bonnet (toward the bottom of the left-hand column on that page), I'd say it's reasonably safe to assume that your leghorn does have a crown! Emily On 9/17/2013 2:11 PM, Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the leghorn flat, since the written description calls it a flat. (It's Fig. 2 in the descriptions here.) http://babel.hathitrust.org/**cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;** view=1up;seq=185http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=185 So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was shaped, and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out! The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn flat has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits the wearer's fancy. http://babel.hathitrust.org/** cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;**view=1up;seq=86http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=86 I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the definition of leghorn seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping to use millinery wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote: As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of. Also, that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat! On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net**wrote: Hi, Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm recreating as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with 19th-century millinery about the hat. It's an 1889 flat leghorn, according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one. (figure on the right): http://babel.hathitrust.org/**cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;** view=1up;seq=109http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 Any thoughts? Thank you! (The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board and plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.) Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat nightmare. Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian flat leghorn hat
Hi, Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the leghorn flat, since the written description calls it a flat. (It's Fig. 2 in the descriptions here.) http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=185 So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was shaped, and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out! The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn flat has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits the wearer's fancy. http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=86 I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the definition of leghorn seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping to use millinery wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote: As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of. Also, that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat! On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.netwrote: Hi, Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm recreating as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with 19th-century millinery about the hat. It's an 1889 flat leghorn, according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one. (figure on the right): http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 Any thoughts? Thank you! (The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board and plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.) Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat nightmare. Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Victorian flat leghorn hat
Hi, Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm recreating as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with 19th-century millinery about the hat. It's an 1889 flat leghorn, according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one. (figure on the right): http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 Any thoughts? Thank you! (The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board and plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.) Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat nightmare. Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book
I had a wretched day trying to get the chiffon to pleat yesterday. I'm leaving the dress alone for a day so that when I look at it again I won't just automatically assume it must all be started over. But I think this may be the dress where I really do, possibly using a different fabric. What I can't accept is that the original was done in crepe de chîne -- because the crepes I've worked with in the past won't pleat, either. Crepe is much too thick for this doll dress, but the chiffon -- which is very sheer, very soft, and very light (no organza stiffness to lose, but the pleats vanish when it gets damp) and which I chose because it wouldn't build up an unacceptable bulk, as well as because it's iridescent, might just be the wrong cloth. I may try starching a couple of test pieces and seeing if that's an answer -- I think with this fabric I'd want to leave the starch in anyway. BUT Astrida's beautiful book arrived yesterday, too. So now I can, if I want to, follow her excellent and clear instructions for pleating, and use a vinegar pressing cloth to try to set them. I put a little vinegar in the spritzing water for my first attempts but nowhere near a 1:1 ratio and did not use a cloth nor let the pleats rest. So I have those to try before I throw in the towel on this one. Plus this gorgeous book! With these really nice, consistent, clearly diagrammed instructions. If this is what a Kickstarter-funded, artisan-controlled book can be like, the future could be much more fun than I've recently been imagining! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jun 30, 2013, at 1:59 PM, Cin wrote: A note of caution: Rinsing out the starch may also rinse out the finish of your organza making it limp or less shiny. Test first. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sat, Jun 29, 2013 at 6:16 PM, Lauren Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: Thanks -- I was wondering how to stabilize it. Starch is a good suggestion. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jun 29, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: Do you starch your chiffon before working with it? That may help and after it's pleated and the pleats are tacked down, you can rinse out the starch. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lauren Walker Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 9:08 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book Oh, dear. I was just going to check in to complain that if I EVER finish the current project it's going to be YEARS before I work with chiffon in 1/12th scale again, and here I see Astrida has a whole book on how to really *do* these embellishments where I've been winging it. I'm torn between buying a copy now and waiting until I'm done with the doll project so I don't feel I have to tear everything apart and start over. I mean, I did just pause to go order the book, because books always win. But I'm just about to do the accordion pleats (Godey's calls them accordion pleats) for the skirt on the gown on the left here: http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176890;view=1up;seq=511 for the tiny Grodnerthal doll (I've got the bodice done although there are things with which I'm not satisfied so it might get done over--the pleating ended up not crossing above the belt, and I'm not sure I can stand it) and I'm not sure whether it would help or not to know what I am doing! Anyway I'm looking forward to my copy of the book! And to moving on to the fourth and last outfit in the doll project, which is the one on the right in this plate: http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 which I'm working in a striped cotton and a sheer wool challis. Which will have their own problems, but will at least not be this insanely delicate chiffon. By the way, Godey's calls the hat a flat leghorn -- looking at some other hats from the late 1880s, some did not have crowns, or the crown was filled in with the scarf material. Would any of you hazard a guess about this particular hat? Thanks! I'm going to be so happy to go back to human-sized 18th-century wools and linens. Fabrics you can't hurt even with a blowtorch and a hammer! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jun 17, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Terry wrote: I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail. I mean I JUST got it (5 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it looks beautiful. Can't wait to read it! Terry Walker ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book
Oh, dear. I was just going to check in to complain that if I EVER finish the current project it's going to be YEARS before I work with chiffon in 1/12th scale again, and here I see Astrida has a whole book on how to really *do* these embellishments where I've been winging it. I'm torn between buying a copy now and waiting until I'm done with the doll project so I don't feel I have to tear everything apart and start over. I mean, I did just pause to go order the book, because books always win. But I'm just about to do the accordion pleats (Godey's calls them accordion pleats) for the skirt on the gown on the left here: http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176890;view=1up;seq=511 for the tiny Grodnerthal doll (I've got the bodice done although there are things with which I'm not satisfied so it might get done over--the pleating ended up not crossing above the belt, and I'm not sure I can stand it) and I'm not sure whether it would help or not to know what I am doing! Anyway I'm looking forward to my copy of the book! And to moving on to the fourth and last outfit in the doll project, which is the one on the right in this plate: http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 which I'm working in a striped cotton and a sheer wool challis. Which will have their own problems, but will at least not be this insanely delicate chiffon. By the way, Godey's calls the hat a flat leghorn -- looking at some other hats from the late 1880s, some did not have crowns, or the crown was filled in with the scarf material. Would any of you hazard a guess about this particular hat? Thanks! I'm going to be so happy to go back to human-sized 18th-century wools and linens. Fabrics you can't hurt even with a blowtorch and a hammer! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jun 17, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Terry wrote: I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail. I mean I JUST got it (5 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it looks beautiful. Can't wait to read it! Terry Walker ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Lady of Fashion
Hi, If anyone is still looking for a copy of Lady of Fashion: Barbara Johnson's Album, by Natalie Rothstein, Powell's Books currently has one copy, for $150. I hate to say this, but $150 is not a bad price for this book. I've already got one, and shouldn't spend the money on a spare/loaner right now; so this must be Someone Else's Bargain. Is it yours? Here's the link. http://www.powells.com/biblio/2-9780500014196-0 Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Doll-clothes brain
So, since my last installment, I've been working away on making 9 rows of bias ruched organza quilling trim in 1/12 scale for an 1849 evening dress. Tomorrow I'll make the satin underskirt and start on the 16 ribbon roses. And then there can finally be pictures. (Penny Ladnier, if you're reading this: it's the pink tarletaine on the left lady from the January 1849 Year in Fashion plate.) But I've clearly gotten a bit punchy from the whole doll-scale project. Because when I saw this: http://www.fabric.com/midweek-madness-sale-home-decor-fabric-p-kaufmann-adrian-coral.aspx , a screen-printed upholstery canvas with approximately a 9 square repeat, for a moment I really wanted to buy enough of it to make myself a dress that would be the equivalent on me. I might not be able to resist. Definitely stitching past bedtime, here. Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?
Hi, I didn't get any good presents but I have, post-holiday, made some progress on the 1/12 scale 1849 dinner dress with the quilled trim. I got some really small (4/0, 5/0, 8/0 and 11/0) knitting needles before the holidays that I'm using as mandrels for the quilling. Yesterday I finished the berthe with three rows of quilling and today patterned out the skirt. Next week, on to the skirt, and cutting and pressing 108 of bias strips from the pink organza, sewing them into tubes, and ruching them for the skirt quilling. Then a dozen tiny silk roses... and then PICTURES! Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jan 5, 2013, at 12:16 AM, Pierre Sandy Pettinger wrote: We've seen no messages since December 18 - is everyone really that busy? Typical post-holiday question - What costume goodies did you get this year? I got Steampunk Fashion by Spurgeon Vaughan Ratcliffe. Also a bunch of cooking gadgets. Sandy International Costumers' Guild Archivist http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?
Hmm. Not a lot of easy pickings here on the museum search. If you could find an illustrated copy of the Rites of Zhou, there might be clothing illustrations in it. There seems to be a prevalent belief that peasant clothing was regional until the unification under the First Emperor, and then maybe he tried to standardize clothing while he was standardizing everything else? Which doesn't tell you what the standard *was*, alas. Here is a picture of two figures, listed as A female servant and male advisor in Chinese silk robes from the Western Han Period, 202 BC to 9 AD: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg Here's a dancer from the same period: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1992.165.19 and a musician: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1994.605.85a-c My browser is not finding the image here, but maybe yours will. I t's supposed to be a figurine of a woman from the Warring States Period, 476–221 B.C. : http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/figurine-of-a-standing-woman-20272 This piece seems to indicate that cotton was only introduced to China around 200 BC. So your peasants wouldn't be wearing cotton. Maybe linen? http://www.sccfsac.org/textiles.html and, an interesting article on some ancient silk, cotton, and linen Chineses textile finds, including some surprisingly early dates for some dyes. http://history.cultural-china.com/en/56History9723.html If you want to use movie costumes for refer ence, there's always Hero. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0299977/ Best, Lauren Walker - Original Message - From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:36:23 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help? Any help in the movie Mulan? It's been a while since I saw it, but it may have some ideas. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 6:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help? ...or Tales of a Band Mom. This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and first order of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit (stationary instruments like xylophones, chimes, etc.) What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC? Our band director is proposing simple wrap-style tunics (like short kimonos) and scrub pants torn below the knee -- both dyed in earthy colors. Semi-accurate? Horrible? Are conical hats appropriate? --although I can see them getting knocked off. I'm clueless, and can find neither image nor description. Part II will be terracotta soldier costumes to be worn by very active teenagers with drums, but I need to deal with the peasants first. Help? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cotton stockings (was Amazon dry goods)
For cotton stockings, try http://www.sockdreams.com/_pages/index.php I like many of their over-the-knee offerings, especially their O Basics for re-enacting. http://www.sockdreams.com/products/socks/over-the-knee/o-basics The cotton content seems to change depending upon the batch (currently, 68%) , but they are a simple, flat-knit, over-the-knee sock, and they attempt to tell you how they will fit on various leg sizes. Also you can't beat the price. Sock Dreams carries a lot of other over-the-knee and thigh-high stockings, so if these aren't what you're looking for you may find something else that is. I'm still craving these beauties: http://www.sockdreams.com/products/orkney-angora-over-the-knees:10296 50% angora/50% wool. Hope you can find the socks you want! Lauren - Original Message - From: Liz H. imco...@verizon.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 2:52:39 PM Subject: [h-cost] Amazon dry goods Actually they've been around for...I think a year and a half now, he said? I called this summer, hoping to buy some of the cotton with lycra stockings that I *love* for reenacting. Which is the only reason I know that timeframe for the new owners. He said that, unfortunately, one of the very first suppliers he heard from/spoke to was the maker of the stockings...who called to tell them that they were going out of business. :-( Anyone come across a stocking that is basically heavy cotton tights that aren't attached, but will stretch and fit a short person with heavy legs, please let me know! Meanwhile, customer service there is as great as it ever has been, if not better :-) -Elisabeth (still here, but quiet) - Reply message - From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 259 Date: Tue, Nov 20, 2012 2:00 pm Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... Today's Topics: 1. Amazon Drygoods (Pierre Sandy Pettinger) 2. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Marjorie Wilser) 3. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Wicked Frau) 4. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Marion McNealy) 5. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Franchesca Havas) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 22:26:54 -0600 From: Pierre Sandy Pettinger costu...@radiks.net To: h-cost...@indra.com, ic...@yahoogroups.com, slc...@yahoogroups.com, f-cost...@yahoogroups.com Subject: [h-cost] Amazon Drygoods Message-ID: e1tafs9-0006k4...@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed They're bck! From: Carole Parker ms...@sonic.net Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 18:24:40 -0800 Subject: Amazon Drygoods Begin forwarded message: On Sun, Nov 18, 2012 at 8:16 AM, Persephone mailto:inbox%40vintagewaltz.comin...@vintagewaltz.com wrote: Hello Costumers! Do you remember Amazon Drygoods, that cute little paper catalog full of nifty books, shoes, hats... well everything... A year or two ago they went out of business and we said boo-hoo. Well I just learned last week, that they are back in business. How did I miss that one? In case some of you had not heard I wanted to pass it on. Here are the new owners http://www.amazondrygoods.com/about-us/http://www.amazondrygoods.com/about-us/ International Costumers' Guild Archivist http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 20:59:11 -0800 From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amazon Drygoods Message-ID: f26e6b41-e62f-4600-96ee-d6177ee02...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain;charset=US-ASCII;format=flowed Good to hear it, thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Nov 19, 2012, at 8:26 PM, Pierre Sandy Pettinger wrote: They're bck! -- Message: 3 Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 07:20:39 -0700 From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Cc: ic...@yahoogroups.com, slc...@yahoogroups.com, f-cost...@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amazon Drygoods Message-ID:
Re: [h-cost] Cotton stockings (was Amazon dry goods)
Teena -- They are an addiction. And two recommendations are better than one, right? - Original Message - From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 4:54:33 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton stockings (was Amazon dry goods) Lauren, I should have finished reading my email before responding to Liz. You beat me to it! ;-) As a warning to others, sockdreams can become an addiction! Teena From: lauren.wal...@comcast.net lauren.wal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 4:14 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton stockings (was Amazon dry goods) For cotton stockings, try http://www.sockdreams.com/_pages/index.php I like many of their over-the-knee offerings, especially their O Basics for re-enacting. http://www.sockdreams.com/products/socks/over-the-knee/o-basics The cotton content seems to change depending upon the batch (currently, 68%) , but they are a simple, flat-knit, over-the-knee sock, and they attempt to tell you how they will fit on various leg sizes. Also you can't beat the price. Sock Dreams carries a lot of other over-the-knee and thigh-high stockings, so if these aren't what you're looking for you may find something else that is. I'm still craving these beauties: http://www.sockdreams.com/products/orkney-angora-over-the-knees:10296 50% angora/50% wool. Hope you can find the socks you want! Lauren - Original Message - From: Liz H. imco...@verizon.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 2:52:39 PM Subject: [h-cost] Amazon dry goods Actually they've been around for...I think a year and a half now, he said? I called this summer, hoping to buy some of the cotton with lycra stockings that I *love* for reenacting. Which is the only reason I know that timeframe for the new owners. He said that, unfortunately, one of the very first suppliers he heard from/spoke to was the maker of the stockings...who called to tell them that they were going out of business. :-( Anyone come across a stocking that is basically heavy cotton tights that aren't attached, but will stretch and fit a short person with heavy legs, please let me know! Meanwhile, customer service there is as great as it ever has been, if not better :-) -Elisabeth (still here, but quiet) - Reply message - From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 259 Date: Tue, Nov 20, 2012 2:00 pm Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... Today's Topics: 1. Amazon Drygoods (Pierre Sandy Pettinger) 2. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Marjorie Wilser) 3. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Wicked Frau) 4. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Marion McNealy) 5. Re: Amazon Drygoods (Franchesca Havas) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 22:26:54 -0600 From: Pierre Sandy Pettinger costu...@radiks.net To: h-cost...@indra.com, ic...@yahoogroups.com, slc...@yahoogroups.com, f-cost...@yahoogroups.com Subject: [h-cost] Amazon Drygoods Message-ID: e1tafs9-0006k4...@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed They're bck! From: Carole Parker ms...@sonic.net Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 18:24:40 -0800 Subject: Amazon Drygoods Begin forwarded message: On Sun, Nov 18, 2012 at 8:16 AM, Persephone mailto:inbox%40vintagewaltz.comin...@vintagewaltz.com wrote: Hello Costumers! Do you remember Amazon Drygoods, that cute little paper catalog full of nifty books, shoes, hats... well everything... A year or two ago they went out of business and we said boo-hoo. Well I just learned last week, that they are back in business. How did I miss that one? In case some of you had not heard I wanted to pass it on. Here are the new owners http://www.amazondrygoods.com/about-us/http://www.amazondrygoods.com/about-us/ International Costumers' Guild Archivist http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 20:59:11 -0800 From: Marjorie Wilser
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
It's a lehenga choli. http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/ The Punjabi pantsuit is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli is often used for bridal wear. - Original Message - From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 2:09:39 AM Subject: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. In the interest of historical costume, modern version: I have a great thrift store outfit I purchased some years ago in the South Bay (San Jose) area. It looks like a typical woman's Punjabi suit consisting of tunic, shawl, and pants-- except there are no pants. There is a long, even on me (5'10) flowing skirt. It's obviously dressy attire. There is gold (?) bullion embroidery on the front of the tunic, and tiny gold seed beads stitched all over the skirt and shawl (wider than the typical Paloo of a sari). Fabric is an abstract print in warm brown and golden tones on a lightweight silk. Lined throughout. It was a very lucky find for me because I am tall and had only to steal fabric from a seam to add a bust room gusset under the arms. Anybody care to hazard a guess as to this outfit's origins? I'm definitely voting for the Punjab because of the tunic, and thinking perhaps it might be some very formal outfit due to the heavy embroidery. I don't think this list takes attachments, but I do have a pic to post. . . somewhere, or send to whomever is interested. Thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] PS: Re: Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
You'll find some of the fancier lehenga cholis here: http://www.shelleychhabra.com/collection/ - Original Message - From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 2:09:39 AM Subject: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. In the interest of historical costume, modern version: I have a great thrift store outfit I purchased some years ago in the South Bay (San Jose) area. It looks like a typical woman's Punjabi suit consisting of tunic, shawl, and pants-- except there are no pants. There is a long, even on me (5'10) flowing skirt. It's obviously dressy attire. There is gold (?) bullion embroidery on the front of the tunic, and tiny gold seed beads stitched all over the skirt and shawl (wider than the typical Paloo of a sari). Fabric is an abstract print in warm brown and golden tones on a lightweight silk. Lined throughout. It was a very lucky find for me because I am tall and had only to steal fabric from a seam to add a bust room gusset under the arms. Anybody care to hazard a guess as to this outfit's origins? I'm definitely voting for the Punjab because of the tunic, and thinking perhaps it might be some very formal outfit due to the heavy embroidery. I don't think this list takes attachments, but I do have a pic to post. . . somewhere, or send to whomever is interested. Thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
Hmm. This place calls them long choli lehenga: http://www.cbazaar.com/readymade-lehenga/long_choli_lehenga-specialty/c-sb.html - Original Message - From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:15:43 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. Lauren, Thanks for the link!! Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic* and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli. I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :) ==Marjorie Wilser On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: It's a lehenga choli. http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/ The Punjabi pantsuit is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli is often used for bridal wear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] PS: Re: Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
Also, some of the long tops are arnkali (lots of alternate spellings/terms there) and there are some arnkali lehengas like this one: http://www.cbazaar.com/bridesmaid-and-family/lehenga-choli/spellbinding-green-anarkali-style-lehenga-choli-p-ghssvm1517.html - Original Message - From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:15:43 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. Lauren, Thanks for the link!! Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic* and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli. I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :) ==Marjorie Wilser On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: It's a lehenga choli. http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/ The Punjabi pantsuit is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli is often used for bridal wear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
Doesn't matter. I myself am an artifact sufficiently historic to excuse all. - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:57:41 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. Marjorie, Are these historic garments, or is this an inappropriately non-historic discussion? Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 11/1/2012 9:15 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Lauren, Thanks for the link!! Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic* and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli. I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :) ==Marjorie Wilser On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: It's a lehenga choli. http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/ The Punjabi pantsuit is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli is often used for bridal wear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Your new blog!
I like your new blog -- the design and illustrations are very nice, and I can practice my Hebrew. I'm also so pleased to know people in Israel are doing living history. And I love the ingenuity of turning your dresser into a loom! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1849 evening dress
Hi, I am laughing at myself this morning. Mostly I do very early medieval and 18th century, two eras just before technology made fabric much cheaper and more easily available, so all the clothing designs are sort of reflexively fabric-sparing in one way or another. The early medieval is the apotheosis of the rectangles-and-triangles cuts. And the big skirts of the 18th century are cut rectangularly so the fabric can be re-used and refashioned, even when they use a lot of yardage. Stuff like that. But I'm trying to dress a doll for a friend who loves Victorian, and whose two favorite years are 1849 and 1889. The doll and clothes are a birthday surprise, but I'm hoping to show off pictures when it's all done and given to her. The scale is dollhouse -- 1 inch to 1 foot. I finished one outfit -- an 1849 Watering Place Ensemble, which was a good learning experience and came out pretty well, though there's plenty I would do differently next time. Now I'm working on an 1849 evening dress, with a deep pointed bodice and a bertha neckline. In tarlatane, which I'm impersonating with silk organza, over satin, which I'm impersonating with silk charmeuse. And nine rows of narrow quilling of the same material (i.e., the organza) on the skirt. So the fashion plate from which I'm working doesn't show seaming. And I'm there thinking, How the heck am I going to get this kind of close fit without seams? I put darts in the watering place dress because it was trimmed in such a way that they could be there without distracting. But I couldn't see any seams in the evening dress, unless the shadow down the front implied a center seam on the bodice. But it's a drawing, silly me. So I went forth on the web and found some photos of real ones. And they have MULTIPLE SEAMS! Yippee! Of course, working in small scale, I'll try to work them as darts -- one of my things is to have as few unfinished raw edges as I can possibly manage, as they are just a nightmare at 1/12 scale -- but at least I'll be able to do the shaping. The doll I'm working with (http://www.miniphile.com/Pages/Vic-dolls.htm) is shaped to allow for a fairly fashionable Victorian look (here's some of the dollmaker's dressed dolls: http://www.miniphile.com/Pages/gallery.htm) so I should be able to get a pretty nice shape. I've finished the quilling on the berthe, and while it is somewhat wider than would be true to scale, it's the kind of exaggeration of detail that is sometimes acceptable in dollhouse stuff. Basically, although the quilling is made from 1/16 diameter tubes, the bias-ness and the gathering poufed them into something wider. I'm assuming this is! some of the effect that made quilling distinctive and interesting as a trim in period, so that's kind of fun. My questions for today are: Is a center seam down the bodice front typical for evening dresses in 1849? Does it introduce some bias-give that is essential to the smooth shape? And: Would there be short sleeves on the bodice under the berthe? Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian quilled fabric trim
Yup. - Original Message - From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 2:38:23 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian quilled fabric trim Certifiable, Lauren. Certifiable. :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 20, 2012, at 10:21 PM, Lauren Walker wrote (in part): Hi, Just wanted to mention that I'm now trying to do a version of Victorian quilled fabric trim on a 1/12 scale evening dress. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Puts the burden where it belongs!
Just FYI: The scariest thing you're likely to encounter following a Huffington Post link is some kind of pseudo-medical falsehood; the scariest thing you're likely to encounter on Freakonomics is some accurate news about the current national or world economic situation. SO I clicked; it's articles about glasses that help ultra-Orthodox Jewish men not-see immodestly-dressed women. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 20, 2012, at 9:18 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote: I don't click on bare links without at least a short explanation of where they're going or what they're about, so I agree with Joan on this. What are they? Ginni Morgan Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com 9/20/12 4:34 PM Did you read the articles? Or the link titles? Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 9/20/2012 4:18 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote: At 08:26 PM 9/16/2012, you wrote: http://www.freakonomics.com/2012/09/07/modesty-glasses/ http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/08/08/ultra-orthodox-jews-blurry-glasses_n_1757338.html http://www.modestyglasses.com/index.html Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress What in the world are these links about? Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This communication with its contents may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. It is solely for the use of the intended recipient(s). Unauthorized interception, review, use or disclosure is prohibited and may violate applicable laws including the Electronic Communications Privacy Act. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender and destroy all copies of the communication. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Victorian quilled fabric trim
Hi, Just wanted to mention that I'm now trying to do a version of Victorian quilled fabric trim on a 1/12 scale evening dress. Following what I could glean from the fashion plate I'm following and some written accounts of such trims, I've used bias-cut strips of silk organza. I stitch them into tubes about 3/32 in diameter, turn them inside out using 1/16 dowels, then insert two of those thin, double-pointed knitting needles used for socks, stitch between them, and gather. It's pretty nice, though I think in future I might use wire instead of the knitting needles to get something a little smaller, but there's a limit to what I can turn inside out, too. What's interesting, though, is what the bias tubes do when gathered down the middle. The fabric sort of flares and poufs from being bias -- very different from what happens when I gather a tiny tube that's cut with the grain. There's also something SO Industrial Revolution about the massive waste of fabric in this kind of trim. Anyway, I'm having fun with it. I've just been trimming the berthe; next, nine rows of quilling for the skirt. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Copper
Thanks! Yes -- the John Bull does look like it. For some reason -- well, for the reason that it's shot VERY dark, mostly --I can't get a definitive image in my mind of how flared or not the hat is. The low topper is a nice hat, but it looks higher to me. Also in an hour of staring diligently at the hat on TV I'm pretty sure they've used more than one; one seemed to have the telescope crown of a modern porkpie, and one definitely doesn't. Which might help explain SOME of my confusion. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 9, 2012, at 12:12 AM, Kim Baird wrote: I think you're right about the dressage hat--very similar! I also think it resembles the John Bull hat from Gentleman's Emporium Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lauren Walker Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 10:45 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Copper I don't know -- looking at the 19th-century costume hatters, there are hats they're calling low derby or flat top derby that look like it; http://www.ushist.com/19th-century_mens_hats_f.shtml it also looks like their coachman hats. http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000397.php?gclid=CPOTwuDJp7ICFUXf4Ao dzA4Agg Most entertaining to me is that what it *really* looks like is a modern-day women's dressage hat. Dressage hat: http://www.doversaddlery.com/wool-felt-dressage-hat-chrstys/p/X1-36035/ I get that it doesn't have the rounded crown of a modern-day derby or bowler, but the 19th century versions were sometimes flat. It doesn't look tall enough to me to be a top hat, however. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Copper
Thanks for the referral! I hadn't found Tim Bender's hats before, I like the documentation, and it's always great to have a recommendation. Thank you! Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 9, 2012, at 9:54 AM, Lists wrote: Look at the styles on this web site. http://www.benderhats.com/hats1.html These are all documented styles based on original hats. I haven't had a chance to watch the show, but it sounds like it could be a flat top bowler. I highly recommend Tim Bender's hats. The styles are documented, his materials and craftsmanship are excellent, and he always delivers on time (or earlier). Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Copper
I'm watching Copper on BBC America. Can someone tell me what the hat Corcoran wears is called? It's sort of a porkpie, but a little taller than the modern version that goes by that name, and the crown's not creased anywhere. Or maybe its a derby with the crown flattened? Anyway it's a great hat. I'm enjoying the costumes on this show, maybe because I don't know the period all that well! Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Copper
I don't know -- looking at the 19th-century costume hatters, there are hats they're calling low derby or flat top derby that look like it; http://www.ushist.com/19th-century_mens_hats_f.shtml it also looks like their coachman hats. http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000397.php?gclid=CPOTwuDJp7ICFUXf4AodzA4Agg Most entertaining to me is that what it *really* looks like is a modern-day women's dressage hat. Dressage hat: http://www.doversaddlery.com/wool-felt-dressage-hat-chrstys/p/X1-36035/ I get that it doesn't have the rounded crown of a modern-day derby or bowler, but the 19th century versions were sometimes flat. It doesn't look tall enough to me to be a top hat, however. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 8, 2012, at 11:29 PM, Kim Baird wrote: I don't know what it's called, but it's obviously a top hat with a short crown. Nothing like a derby or a pork pie. Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lauren Walker Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 9:36 PM To: h-costume h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Copper I'm watching Copper on BBC America. Can someone tell me what the hat Corcoran wears is called? It's sort of a porkpie, but a little taller than the modern version that goes by that name, and the crown's not creased anywhere. Or maybe its a derby with the crown flattened? Anyway it's a great hat. I'm enjoying the costumes on this show, maybe because I don't know the period all that well! Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown
Thank you, everyone. I found this _description_ of the gown: http://www.eastliverpoolhistoricalsociety.org/firstladys.htm CAROLINE SCOTT HARRISON should perhaps be one of our most interesting wives as least for us in the DAR since she served as our first national President. Her National Number is 7. Some of her ancestors are buried in mill Creek Cemetery near Laughlin's Corners in Beaver County. Benjamin Harrison served in the Senate before arriving at the White House, so Caroline had learned her role as hostess early on. She is described as serene beauty with white hair waved back off her ears. Mrs. Harrison was very proficient in music and painting. It is said it was the Harrison's who started the Christmas Tree tradition at the White House for their grandson. Caroline died before Benjamin finished his second term. Her Inaugural Ball gown was typically American in fabric and design. The heavy silver-gray silk and brocade was woven especially for her. Four front panels have an insertion of apricot satin veiled with lace. The collar and trimmings are of silver and gold band fringe. Which calls the apricot satin parts insertion -- reinforcing the idea that they're between, not under, the brocade. - Original Message - From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Friday, September 7, 2012 3:29:50 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown I don't think that it is a petticoat under the brocade panels, looks more like insertions or panels connected to the brocade panels and pleated to look like an under skirt. Pic. with her wearing the gown. Click on pic. for a wee bit larger pic. http://www.sheribethdesigns.com/Custom-Creations.html just a tad bit bigger pic. http://tinyurl.com/9hha42u De -Original Message- Hi, Has anyone here seen Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown in person or close up? (here's a measly picture of it) http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object.cfm?key=35objkey=47 (here's an article about restoring it with a slightly different angle) http://americanhistory.si.edu/news/factsheet.cfm?key=30newskey=595 I am trying to figure out if the underskirt is pleated beneath the brocade panels, or if it is only pleated between them. Also if the back panel (supporting the bustle) is stitched to the brocade panels on each side or not. The style is not unique to Mrs. Harrison -- there's a fashion plate from June of 1889 showing a gown that's got the same kind of brocade panels and intervening pleats (though no bustle, and a sleeveless bodice). So any knowledge about the style in general would be helpful, too. Thank you! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown
Right answers=good. Your smugitude is justified. Also, if you really squint hard at the One Official Photo that seems to be available, you can kind of see the apricot folding like it was attached to the brocade on the left-hand (well, the wearer's right-hand) front panel. One of those things where a theory changes what I'm capable of seeing. - Original Message - From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Friday, September 7, 2012 11:55:19 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown thought so! :) ==Marjorie Wilser (pray pardon my smuggitude, but it's my first right answer today) On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:39 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote (in part): Thank you, everyone. I found this _description_ of the gown: Her Inaugural Ball gown was typically American in fabric and design. The heavy silver-gray silk and brocade was woven especially for her. Four front panels have an insertion of apricot satin veiled with lace. The collar and trimmings are of silver and gold band fringe. Which calls the apricot satin parts insertion -- reinforcing the idea that they're between, not under, the brocade. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown
Hi, Has anyone here seen Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown in person or close up? (here's a measly picture of it) http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object.cfm?key=35objkey=47 (here's an article about restoring it with a slightly different angle) http://americanhistory.si.edu/news/factsheet.cfm?key=30newskey=595 I am trying to figure out if the underskirt is pleated beneath the brocade panels, or if it is only pleated between them. Also if the back panel (supporting the bustle) is stitched to the brocade panels on each side or not. The style is not unique to Mrs. Harrison -- there's a fashion plate from June of 1889 showing a gown that's got the same kind of brocade panels and intervening pleats (though no bustle, and a sleeveless bodice). So any knowledge about the style in general would be helpful, too. Thank you! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1849 Bonnet (1/12 scale)
Hi, Thank you for all your help and advice on my first straw hat. I'm still hoping to surprise someone with the dressed doll, so I won't post the whole outfit until the project is finished, but I'm too excited about finishing the hat not to show it to you. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.516383471710247.130900.10157974475type=1l=00cec87117 Of course there's lots I have learned in making this hat and the next one will be better. Im trying to work up the courage to try to reduce the fray-check stain on the bow, I wish I had hidden my stitches in the lining. Thing I'm still having the most trouble with is exaggerating details either because I can't make them small enough or because I want them to be apparent. The topline of the hat should have been straighter, the brim is too big, etc. But I'm still pleased with it for a first try! Thank you again! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
I'm kind of amazed at the consensus on the Bernina 1008. I just never see that kind of agreement on anything! Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 3, 2012, at 2:32 PM, Galadriel wrote: I'll also throw in my vote behind the Bernina 1008: no computerized parts. The sales person was actually honest when I bought it and said it was better for traveling and wouldn't need much maintenance. The only thing I'd add is that I found a guy to switch out the bobbin housing from plastic to all metal, so I'd recommend that. The Bernina 1008 is what I have at home and is the model of choice for our home machines at work. --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
Of course the problem with Kenmore products is that different models were manufactured by different manufacturers. I have a Kenmore that was my mother's (early 80s) that she gave me because she hated it. And guess what? I hate it, too. But I haven't figured out what I want, except I wish I hadn't given up the early White zigzag that was my grandmother's. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 3, 2012, at 12:25 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: I'm amazed. . . the Kenmore was my mother's machine which I learned to hate -- literally chewed up anything with a soft hand, and refused crossed seams completely. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 2, 2012, at 4:29 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Fran, I am still singing the wonders of a Kenmore 158: series. Replaced my Beloved of over 30 years with a Pfaff Jeans and satin. The pfaff really has lived up to its hype and does not require a transition period between fibers...just like the Kenmore of the '70s. But for rugged costume mileage, it was always at MY beck and call. Picked up a free arm last month on e-Bay that never saw much sewing even though it was advertised as used. While searching, came across a number of them New and some with cases for about $200. My original one (1972) had key cams that I seldom used...but I love the button-holer, also with keys Great when you need to make dozens! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Stupid question
Hi, costumers, I do lots of sewing things. But I can't get pinking shears to work for me. I have a new pair of Ginghers and an old pair my brother used all the time in his various design and sewing businesses, so they must have worked for him. I would believe they might need sharpening, but I doubt the Ginghers do yet, and both do the same thing, so I think it is my (lack of) technique. The shears do not make a nice zigzag cut. They kind of squish and shred the fabric, and sometimes don't even cut. I am pretty sure the Ginghers are as sharp as they're supposed to be; but I actually have somewhat better luck with my brother's old shears. Does the fabric have to be under tension or something? Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stupid question
Thanks! I will try this! Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Sep 1, 2012, at 1:03 PM, Betsy Marshall wrote: I had the same problem with my mom's pinking shears; what worked for me was to apply some lateral stress (twist? Hard to describe) to the handles as I was cutting, making sure the two edges were pressed towards each other; giving a good shearing cut. Any kind of gap between blades led to the smush/fray effect you describe; practice on some muslin, and maybe check to see if the pivot point/connection is good and tight..and hope this helped..Betsy -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lauren Walker Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2012 11:47 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Stupid question Hi, costumers, I do lots of sewing things. But I can't get pinking shears to work for me. I have a new pair of Ginghers and an old pair my brother used all the time in his various design and sewing businesses, so they must have worked for him. I would believe they might need sharpening, but I doubt the Ginghers do yet, and both do the same thing, so I think it is my (lack of) technique. The shears do not make a nice zigzag cut. They kind of squish and shred the fabric, and sometimes don't even cut. I am pretty sure the Ginghers are as sharp as they're supposed to be; but I actually have somewhat better luck with my brother's old shears. Does the fabric have to be under tension or something? Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions
It's my first hat, and I'm disappointed in some of the edge binding, so I'm looking for alternate materials, which might mean removing some work and re-doing, if I can find a good alternate material. The silk embroidery ribbon was too thin, and the cotton tabby tape was too bulky. I'm thinking a regular silk taffeta ribbon, or maybe a wider embroidery ribbon doubled. But the bavolet really worked. (I used the dress fabric, which is plaid, cut on the bias, and did about a 2:1 gather.) - Original Message - From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 1:36:19 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions Please do, Lauren! I'd forgotten it was 1/12. wow. AWE :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Aug 26, 2012, at 9:50 PM, Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, I have constructed the straw part of the 1849 hat, bound the raw edges, and applied the bavolet! 1/12-scale bavolet = mighty tricky. Now just the lining-ruffles and the lining and the bow and gimp trims. Whew! hats are elaborate. Thank you to everyone for your advice and picture links and everything. When it's done I'll post pictures. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions
Hi, I have constructed the straw part of the 1849 hat, bound the raw edges, and applied the bavolet! 1/12-scale bavolet = mighty tricky. Now just the lining-ruffles and the lining and the bow and gimp trims. Whew! hats are elaborate. Thank you to everyone for your advice and picture links and everything. When it's done I'll post pictures. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jul 28, 2012, at 3:50 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Bavolet is the word I've heard for the curtain. I've probably mis-spelled it :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Jul 27, 2012, at 2:06 PM, Lynn Downward wrote: Hi Lauren, Welcome to millinary, a wonderful, terrible art. I can answer two of your questions. however, the question of symmetry (#2 and #4) depended on the year and the desire of the wearer. Sometimes symmetry was all, sometimes asymmetry was the way to go. Perhaps someone with more experience in 1849 fashion can help you there. However, yes, a straw bonnet would have that curtain in the back to cover your (naked!) neck. It could be made of the lining fabric or part of the trimming ribbon or even some of the fabric to match your dress. There's a French term that means 'curtain', can't remember it right now and that ruffle at the back is usually called by that name. The lining could have been shirred and look poofy or smooth against inside of the bonnet and/or (are you getting the terrible part yet?) she is wearing a cap. As soon as I wrote 'women always covered their hair' I remembered dozens of photographs of women whose hair showed. Best wishes on your project. I hope you'll take pictures and send us a link to admire. LynnD On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 1:55 PM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: Hi, I'm working on a 1/12 scale (dollhouse miniature) of the outfit in an 1849 fashion plate. (If you've subscribed to the Costume Gallery, it's part of the Year in Fashion: 1949 collection, http://www.costumegallery.com/1849/ . It's the March 1849 Fashion Plate : Lady with Children .) I'm almost done with the gown and moving on to the bonne t. I am not very knowledgeable about 19th-century headwear, and am hoping someone with expertise can give me a clue or two or three . The bonnet appears to be straw, and I think it is more or less the typical shape of that decade, which I've seen variously described as cottage/spoon/scuttle . I've read that by 1849 the brim, while still large in circumference, no longer extended very far out beyond the face, which seems consistent with the image . Other examples from the same year that I've seen had a straight top line rather than a break between the caul and brim. A ribbon trims the hat, more or less where the caul would turn into the brim if they were not continuous. So far so good. The plate doesn't show the back of the bonnet. Other examples from around the same time have some kind of fabric ruffle on the back at the bottom of the caul, coming forward as far as the ribbon trim. Here are my questions: 1) None of the real-life bonnets I've looked at is straw. On these other bonnets, the fabric ruffle is made of the same fashion fabric as the outside of the bonnet. Would a straw bonnet have the ruffle? What would it be made of on a straw hat? 2) The bonnet in the fashion plate has an elaborate bow and tassel trim on the visible side. Would there have been the same trim on both sides of the head ? Or just on one side? 3) There's something sort of poufy or ruffly going on inside the brim of the bonnet. Would the lining have been poufy or did fashionable women still wear caps under their bonnets in '49? 4) There are also flowers trimming the inside of the brim. Would those have been arranged the same way on both sides of the head, or asymmetrically? Thank you for any thoughts you might share! Best, Lauren - Original Message - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Liquid soap for hand washing
I use Doctor Bronner's liquid soap for handwashing. It seems quite gentle, it comes in a lavender scented version, and it rinses out nicely. The gossip I heard about Woolite was that it tends to fade colors, despite its promises, especially on silks. When I am washing things in the machine that I feel I *ought* to be handwashing ( which I do a lot because I really like the machine spin cycle for avoiding dye redeposit and for getting the maximum water out of things so they can hang to dry without being stretched out of shape), I also use the Doctor Bronner's lavender liquid soap. I am not sure, but I feel that it felts the wools less than the commercial detergents, and it seems the nicest on silks. Lauren - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 3:50:17 PM Subject: [h-cost] Liquid soap for hand washing What's everyone using for hand washing clothes? I hand wash my modern lingerie, some delicate modern clothes, and vintage clothes. I am not looking for an archival product. I am wondering if I should switch from Woolite, although for no special reason, really. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1849 millinery questions
Hi, I'm working on a 1/12 scale (dollhouse miniature) of the outfit in an 1849 fashion plate. (If you've subscribed to the Costume Gallery, it's part of the Year in Fashion: 1949 collection, http://www.costumegallery.com/1849/ . It's the March 1849 Fashion Plate : Lady with Children .) I'm almost done with the gown and moving on to the bonne t. I am not very knowledgeable about 19th-century headwear, and am hoping someone with expertise can give me a clue or two or three . The bonnet appears to be straw, and I think it is more or less the typical shape of that decade, which I've seen variously described as cottage/spoon/scuttle . I've read that by 1849 the brim, while still large in circumference, no longer extended very far out beyond the face, which seems consistent with the image . Other examples from the same year that I've seen had a straight top line rather than a break between the caul and brim. A ribbon trims the hat, more or less where the caul would turn into the brim if they were not continuous. So far so good. The plate doesn't show the back of the bonnet. Other examples from around the same time have some kind of fabric ruffle on the back at the bottom of the caul, coming forward as far as the ribbon trim. Here are my questions: 1) None of the real-life bonnets I've looked at is straw. On these other bonnets, the fabric ruffle is made of the same fashion fabric as the outside of the bonnet. Would a straw bonnet have the ruffle? What would it be made of on a straw hat? 2) The bonnet in the fashion plate has an elaborate bow and tassel trim on the visible side. Would there have been the same trim on both sides of the head ? Or just on one side? 3) There's something sort of poufy or ruffly going on inside the brim of the bonnet. Would the lining have been poufy or did fashionable women still wear caps under their bonnets in '49? 4) There are also flowers trimming the inside of the brim. Would those have been arranged the same way on both sides of the head, or asymmetrically? Thank you for any thoughts you might share! Best, Lauren - Original Message - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] PS: Oops: Re: 1849 millinery questions
It might have been this fashion plate instead: Fashion Plate: Lady Young Boys She's in a plaid gown with a row of passementerie tassles down the front of the skirt. Lady Young Boys She's in a plaid gown with a row of passementerie tassles down the front of the skirt. - Original Message - From: lauren walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 4:55:44 PM Subject: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions Hi, I'm working on a 1/12 scale (dollhouse miniature) of the outfit in an 1849 fashion plate. (If you've subscribed to the Costume Gallery, it's part of the Year in Fashion: 1949 collection, http://www.costumegallery.com/1849/ . It's the March 1849 Fashion Plate : Lady with Children .) I'm almost done with the gown and moving on to the bonne t. I am not very knowledgeable about 19th-century headwear, and am hoping someone with expertise can give me a clue or two or three . The bonnet appears to be straw, and I think it is more or less the typical shape of that decade, which I've seen variously described as cottage/spoon/scuttle . I've read that by 1849 the brim, while still large in circumference, no longer extended very far out beyond the face, which seems consistent with the image . Other examples from the same year that I've seen had a straight top line rather than a break between the caul and brim. A ribbon trims the hat, more or less where the caul would turn into the brim if they were not continuous. So far so good. The plate doesn't show the back of the bonnet. Other examples from around the same time have some kind of fabric ruffle on the back at the bottom of the caul, coming forward as far as the ribbon trim. Here are my questions: 1) None of the real-life bonnets I've looked at is straw. On these other bonnets, the fabric ruffle is made of the same fashion fabric as the outside of the bonnet. Would a straw bonnet have the ruffle? What would it be made of on a straw hat? 2) The bonnet in the fashion plate has an elaborate bow and tassel trim on the visible side. Would there have been the same trim on both sides of the head ? Or just on one side? 3) There's something sort of poufy or ruffly going on inside the brim of the bonnet. Would the lining have been poufy or did fashionable women still wear caps under their bonnets in '49? 4) There are also flowers trimming the inside of the brim. Would those have been arranged the same way on both sides of the head, or asymmetrically? Thank you for any thoughts you might share! Best, Lauren - Original Message - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find
Hi, I haven't been able to keep up with all of this thread, but I just wanted to make sure you have seen this: http://www.uibk.ac.at/urgeschichte/projekte_forschung/textilien-lengberg/medieval-lingerie-from-lengberg-castle-east-tyrol.html which must be more current than the NESAT abstract in that the carbon dating results are back. Also, pictures. Lauren - Original Message - From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 3:18:47 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find Agreed that it is more interesting than the Daily Mail story, but unfortunately not the one which will stick in the average person's mind. ;-) One of the places that had gotten the Daily Mail stories linked to that. Medievalists maybe? Teena From: Marie Stewart maric...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 11:42 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find The Daily Mail Article is 'interesting' but the more interesting piece is the summary of the presentation from the NESAT conference. You can find it here. http://www.nesat.org/abstracts/lecture_nutz.pdf I sent out both links initially, but not to HCost, ah well. There's more information out there. I'm still finding items on it. Bridgette On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com wrote: I tried to read the BBC story but you have to have a subscription, unfortunately. However, I did notice that every news story out there seemed to stem from the Daily Mail story. And that is too bad. I am not discounting the importance of the find and the resulting research that will be available. That is awesome. What I find annoying is all of the headlines and news stories that say Medieval women wore skimpy linen bras and knickers. Teena From: Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.uk To: h-cost...@indra.com h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 4:16 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] product review
Hi, Just curious: Was it this one? http://www.gloryshouse.com/item_7959/XR115-Silver-Crystal-Clear-Rhinestone-Leaf-Vine-Trim.htm That's a lot of defects for a single yard. Jeez. It looks like they'll take returns under some circumstances. http://www.gloryshouse.com/faqs.htm Lauren - Original Message - From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 9:27:02 AM Subject: [h-cost] product review After looking at a lot of sparkle appliques and consutling with my daughter (her dress) we ended up ordering rhinestone yardage after all. We chose a vine pattern that is about 1/2 inch wide and $22 per yard from Glory's House. I must say I'm not impressed with the quality *at all* There are two places with stones missing - the larger leaf stones of the vine. In three places the flexibility and continuity of the pattern are interrupted by faults or defects. I also don't recall anything in the description that would indicate that it would be made almost entirely from plastic. (note: I did go back and read this in the description The leaf pedals [sic] are high quality acrylic and the rhinestones are glass. This is a very flexible metal back applique. however I have my doubts that any of it is glass or metal except for the very fine chain along the back) I'm going to tack it in place and see how it looks from normal viewing distance, but it makes me leery of buying notions like this sight-unseen in the future. Denise Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
Are you talking about rhinestone appliques? This type of item? http://www.gloryshouse.com/category_106/Rhinestones-Appliques.htm Rhinestone embellishment gets you things like this: http://www.gloryshouse.com/category_185/Rhinestone-Embellishments.htm If that's the ballpark you're looking for, try also bridal appliques and/or bridal trims. Everything shiny is either bridal or dance! Good luck! Lauren - Original Message - From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 1:36:07 PM Subject: [h-cost] rhinestone accents I want to buy some rhinestone elements to sew onto a dress, but I'm not finding what I need. I don't want individual sew-on rhinestones. The closest I can come to what I want is vintage rhinestone jewelery - something that looks a little like a tiara only in necklace form. I've actually been looking at vintage jewelry for something I can take apart, but so far all I've found is too small and/or much too dark unless I start looking at the really expensive pieces. (multiple hundreds!) Modern formal dresses often have a fake buckle or something resembling a brooch sewn on the bodice front or back, etc. What do you call these pieces? Having a few more search terms to use might improve my google-fu. Denise Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
Whilst I am playing the busybody, are these the sew-on rhinestones you seek? http://www.firemountaingems.com/shopping.asp?skw=Swarovski-Sew-On - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 2:24:19 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Are you looking for rhinestone yardage? I have seen that JoAnn Fabrics carries that in the recent past. However, I just looked on their website and I don't see much. Perhaps you can check at some of the large trim companies - Wright, Westrim, Plaid. I know I've seen it on those plastic oval trim bolts on the trims wall. Are you actually finding the sew-in rhinestones you don't want? The ones with the base attached to the stone and four little holes with which you can sew the whole thing onto your fabric? Where?!? I was told at least 10 years ago that those aren't being made anymore and to use the prong jewels. The prongs tear silk taffeta and I don't like the way they snag onto everything near them. Please share your source for the sew-ins. Please, please. I've got some I used on a costume Thanks, LynnD On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Land of Oz lando...@netins.net wrote: I want to buy some rhinestone elements to sew onto a dress, but I'm not finding what I need. I don't want individual sew-on rhinestones. The closest I can come to what I want is vintage rhinestone jewelery - something that looks a little like a tiara only in necklace form. I've actually been looking at vintage jewelry for something I can take apart, but so far all I've found is too small and/or much too dark unless I start looking at the really expensive pieces. (multiple hundreds!) Modern formal dresses often have a fake buckle or something resembling a brooch sewn on the bodice front or back, etc. What do you call these pieces? Having a few more search terms to use might improve my google-fu. Denise Iowa __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
Lynn, Continuing to act the busybody--any chance the stones you seek are these rose montees? Jan's gets new/old stock and vintage stuff, if these are not the droids you're looking for she still might now where you could find them. http://www.jansjewels.com/other/serhi-4.html - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 3:56:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Sharon, will that work? It seems that the settings I've seen have double prongs - one for the stone and one to go through the fabric. I;d also like to apologize to Denise for kind of taking over her question. LynnD On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.comwrote: Just sew on the back first, using an X stitch, without the stone in it. The back will be attached, but not going through the fabric. Then set the stone into the prongs. Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
PS: If the rose montee is the setting you're looking for, apparently they are still made. http://www.shipwreckbeads.com/catalog/Findings-and-Components/Preciosa-Rhinestones/Preciosa-Rose-Montee-Rhinestones//orderBy/sku/itemsPerPage/20/page/1/item/3RH109 Which I suppose means they are not it. But hope springs eternal. - Original Message - From: lauren walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 4:48:03 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Lynn, Continuing to act the busybody--any chance the stones you seek are these rose montees? Jan's gets new/old stock and vintage stuff, if these are not the droids you're looking for she still might now where you could find them. http://www.jansjewels.com/other/serhi-4.html - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 3:56:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Sharon, will that work? It seems that the settings I've seen have double prongs - one for the stone and one to go through the fabric. I;d also like to apologize to Denise for kind of taking over her question. LynnD On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.comwrote: Just sew on the back first, using an X stitch, without the stone in it. The back will be attached, but not going through the fabric. Then set the stone into the prongs. Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
Oh, yay! I love when I find something! The one problem with the Internet is that you have to find the name of something before you can find the something. Enjoy! Lauren - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 7:14:55 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Hi Lauren, The jewels at Jan's (which I'd never heard of) and at Shipwreck Beads (which I had) are just what I've been looking for. The Preciosa Rhinestones are relatively new and, although I'd seen them in the catalog, I didn't realize they were singles. I thought they were looped together in a chain. I'm SO excited! Thank you! LynnD On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 3:31 PM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: PS: If the rose montee is the setting you're looking for, apparently they are still made. http://www.shipwreckbeads.com/catalog/Findings-and-Components/Preciosa-Rhinestones/Preciosa-Rose-Montee-Rhinestones//orderBy/sku/itemsPerPage/20/page/1/item/3RH109 Which I suppose means they are not it. But hope springs eternal. - Original Message - From: lauren walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 4:48:03 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Lynn, Continuing to act the busybody--any chance the stones you seek are these rose montees? Jan's gets new/old stock and vintage stuff, if these are not the droids you're looking for she still might now where you could find them. http://www.jansjewels.com/other/serhi-4.html - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 3:56:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Sharon, will that work? It seems that the settings I've seen have double prongs - one for the stone and one to go through the fabric. I;d also like to apologize to Denise for kind of taking over her question. LynnD On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote: Just sew on the back first, using an X stitch, without the stone in it. The back will be attached, but not going through the fabric. Then set the stone into the prongs. Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
Denise, More hunting for rhinestone elements. I hope some of these might be what you're looking for. Iron on rhinestones by the yard: http://www.dreamtimecreations.com/product/13717/iron-on-rhinestones-by-the-yard-crystal-silver-1-2-inch-hot-fix/ and rhinestone mesh: http://www.dreamtimecreations.com/category/1379/trims/crystal-mesh-by-swarovski/ and rhinestone trims: http://www.dreamtimecreations.com/category/323/trims/rhinestone-trims/rhinestone-trims/ Lauren - Original Message - From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 1:36:07 PM Subject: [h-cost] rhinestone accents I want to buy some rhinestone elements to sew onto a dress, but I'm not finding what I need. I don't want individual sew-on rhinestones. The closest I can come to what I want is vintage rhinestone jewelery - something that looks a little like a tiara only in necklace form. I've actually been looking at vintage jewelry for something I can take apart, but so far all I've found is too small and/or much too dark unless I start looking at the really expensive pieces. (multiple hundreds!) Modern formal dresses often have a fake buckle or something resembling a brooch sewn on the bodice front or back, etc. What do you call these pieces? Having a few more search terms to use might improve my google-fu. Denise Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
PS: It looks like you can even get Swarovski Rose Montees: http://www.dreamtimecreations.com/category/746/rhinestones-in-settings/stones-in-sew-on-settings/rose-montees/ - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 8:05:13 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Thanks again, Lauren. Lynn (now where was that Shipwreck catalog?) On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 4:51 PM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: Oh, yay! I love when I find something! The one problem with the Internet is that you have to find the name of something before you can find the something. Enjoy! Lauren - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 7:14:55 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Hi Lauren, The jewels at Jan's (which I'd never heard of) and at Shipwreck Beads (which I had) are just what I've been looking for. The Preciosa Rhinestones are relatively new and, although I'd seen them in the catalog, I didn't realize they were singles. I thought they were looped together in a chain. I'm SO excited! Thank you! LynnD On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 3:31 PM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: PS: If the rose montee is the setting you're looking for, apparently they are still made. http://www.shipwreckbeads.com/catalog/Findings-and-Components/Preciosa-Rhinestones/Preciosa-Rose-Montee-Rhinestones//orderBy/sku/itemsPerPage/20/page/1/item/3RH109 Which I suppose means they are not it. But hope springs eternal. - Original Message - From: lauren walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 4:48:03 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Lynn, Continuing to act the busybody--any chance the stones you seek are these rose montees? Jan's gets new/old stock and vintage stuff, if these are not the droids you're looking for she still might now where you could find them. http://www.jansjewels.com/other/serhi-4.html - Original Message - From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 3:56:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents Sharon, will that work? It seems that the settings I've seen have double prongs - one for the stone and one to go through the fabric. I;d also like to apologize to Denise for kind of taking over her question. LynnD On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote: Just sew on the back first, using an X stitch, without the stone in it. The back will be attached, but not going through the fabric. Then set the stone into the prongs. Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] scavenging net lace
Hi, costumers, I am attempting to make a dollhouse-size (that's 1/12 scale, inch equals foot) version of the 1849 entire novelty lace poncho to be seen on Penny Ladnier' s C ostume G allery site. http://www.costumegallery.com/ It's in the 1849 Year in Fashion for July, Ladies Outing Fashions. (You have to be subscribed to see it, but I am hoping some of you are.) Anyway, from the fashion plate and description it seems to be an all-over lace. The cut looks like a blunted oval rather than completely round. It has a different lace collar, possibly embroidered, but the description says you must put it on over your head, i.e., it's not open down the front. It also appears to have an additional narrow lace sewn around the edge. I've already given up on making it perfectly to scale, but I'd like to get the general drape, sheerness, and some sense of the delicacy. I'm trying to avoid putting a lot of seams in the body of it. In looking for something that will drape properly and still give a lacy effect I've kind of fixed on English net lace or embroidered tulle, though I'm open to alternative suggestions. (Embroidered chiffon was too thick and opaque and bouncy/crepey.) I've been looking at vintage collars, doilies, and goblet rounds in case I can find something that is already shaped and edged . But I have to say that it pains me to think of cutting a head-hole in a doily or coaster that's otherwise still perfect. Have you got a four- to ten- inch square of fine scroll-embroidered tulle lying on your workshop floor with nothing to d o? A delicate net lace coaster with a terrible hole in the center that you can't use but can't bear to throw out? Half a collar whose mate has absconded? It doesn't even need to be natural fiber ; the right piece of lace that has disappointed you by being polyester would be welcome if I can make it floppy in the dryer. Please contact me off-list if you've got a bit of appropriate lace you'd be willing to re-home for a price. Thank you! Lauren lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Saris/sprig gowns
Hi, Melinda Williams of Sari Safari has posted her new stock of saris from India. I noticed some really lovely silks with embroidery that could be useful for folks doing 1812-ish sprigged gowns. http://www.sarishop.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGYStore_Code=SCategory_Code=sembr It's worth perusing the whole collection, though--for both materials and inspiration. http://www.sarishop.com/ Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Desperation request from a friend….
Quick websearch shows a costumer just over the border from Conn. in Cornwall, NY that has theatrical-grade LaMancha armor: http://www.costumearmour.com/index.htm http://www.costumearmour.com/lamancha.htm Up here in Boston, Boston Costume might be a lower-cost option: http://www.bostoncostume.com/Rental-Costumes-c4/ Good luck! - Original Message - From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Cc: Mark and Lucy babf...@optonline.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 6:03:11 PM Subject: [h-cost] Desperation request from a friend…. Hello the list. A friend is directing Man of La Mancha in his high school, and the place where he was expecting to rent armor is going out of business and has no armor. We're in Connecticut. Can anyone recommend a rental place, or else refer me to directions for building papier mache armor and helm, or offer any other suggestions? He says he might even be able to buy, but this would not be actual armor or replica armor, just stage stuff. This is not my period! Thanks-- Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Liberty of London lawn
Hi, all, Has anyone machine washed and/or dried Liberty of London cotton lawn? What was your result? Unnecessary explanation: I have some Liberty of London cotton lawn that I want to use for historical costume on 1:12 (dollhouse) scale dolls. When I buy fabric to costume humans and other mammals I *always* wash it first, because mammalian activity is such that inevitably one will wish to wash the costume someday. I am overjoyed that my 18th-century-style worsted gown was washable after I spilled a kettle of fish chowder on it. But dolls? Dolls mainly just get dusty. The LoL lawn is labeled hand wash or dry clean. So, yes, that is what I *should* do. But I really want to throw it in the machine once before I commit to cutting it out, so that, should the dolls later wander into some fish chowder, the disaster could be mitigated. I also hate what dry cleaning does to fabric anyway. So I'm having trouble talking myself out of a preliminary machine wash. I'm okay with line drying. Thoughts? Thank you, Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Liberty of London lawn
Hurray! Thank you! Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Feb 16, 2012, at 9:31 AM, Jean Waddie wrote: My mother has summer blouses made of Liberty's lawn, whenever she can get it. They get bundled in the washing machine along with everything else and are absolutely fine. Jean On 16/02/2012 13:37, Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, all, Has anyone machine washed and/or dried Liberty of London cotton lawn? What was your result? Unnecessary explanation: I have some Liberty of London cotton lawn that I want to use for historical costume on 1:12 (dollhouse) scale dolls. When I buy fabric to costume humans and other mammals I *always* wash it first, because mammalian activity is such that inevitably one will wish to wash the costume someday. I am overjoyed that my 18th-century-style worsted gown was washable after I spilled a kettle of fish chowder on it. But dolls? Dolls mainly just get dusty. The LoL lawn is labeled hand wash or dry clean. So, yes, that is what I *should* do. But I really want to throw it in the machine once before I commit to cutting it out, so that, should the dolls later wander into some fish chowder, the disaster could be mitigated. I also hate what dry cleaning does to fabric anyway. So I'm having trouble talking myself out of a preliminary machine wash. I'm okay with line drying. Thoughts? Thank you, Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Edwardian/WWI hats
Downton Abbey has reminded me of a type of hat of which I am fond, but whose name I do not know. I've always seen them in velvet; they have a medium width brim that often seems to be worn straight horizontal, and the crown is a soft poufy mushroom. Sometimes there is a band that can be narrow or wide, but I've seen them without, too. I can find the ones with a somewhat straighter or more structured crown, but not the soft-crowned poufy ones. Does this style have a special name? Does anyone sell them now, or a pattern for them? I'd like to at least be able to find an image of one that was really what I meant--Isobel Crawley and Mrs. Hughes have hats that are close, but not quite as Bloomsbury-ish as the one I have in my mind. OK -- in the last picture on this page (23 of 23) http://enchantedserenityperiodfilms.blogspot.com/2010/10/downton-abbey-milliners-dream.html, the woman on the far right--is that Gwen from Season 1?--has a hat on that's pretty close to what I mean. Does it have a name? Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
Hi, In 18th-century and 19th-century , nankeen was popularly used for breeches, so I wouldn't go too lightweight with it. Since it was a naturally-colored cotton you might have fun using one of the yellowish http://foxfibre.com/ fabrics. When I get home tonight I'll look it up in Montgomery's Textiles in America to see if she has any info about weave. Lauren - Original Message - From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, February 6, 2012 1:37:47 PM Subject: [h-cost] nankeen substitute Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Saris on Ebay was Re: Renaissance dance costumes
You should also visit http://www.sarisafari.com for saris, and for wonderful sari information. Melinda travels to India every year and to pick things out. I have a few in my online store, too, but my shopping cart is broken right now, so I will spare you the link. Best, Lauren - Original Message - From: . . lizmaek...@hotmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, November 8, 2011 2:43:21 PM Subject: [h-cost] Saris on Ebay was Re: Renaissance dance costumes There are various ways to search. You can go to either the Clothing/Cultural Ethnic Clothing category of ebay and search sari there -which will turn up a LOT or you can go to the Antiques/Linens Textiles category and search. From there you can refine your search in either category by adding a price restriction (ie, in the price range don't put a low but do put a high of whatever the highest you are willing to pay is) or you can sort your search by price; from lowest to highest and just ignore anything about a certain price range. Some sellers spell sari saree so you might want to try that as well. If you are looking for more than one sari, just type in sari lot into the search within either category. Lots are more popular in the Clothing category than in the Antiques. (Make sure to take the price restriction off or make it a lot higher if you search for lots) If you see a sari you sort of like but aren't sure, check to see what else that seller is selling. Don't forget to utilize the advanced search! If you want help with just generally searching on ebay, there is a helpful guide up here: http://reviews.ebay.com/How-to-search-for-objects?ugid=105833315 If you would like specific links, I can send you a few to the saris I've found. I hope that helps! Sincerely, Isabella Message: 4 Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 07:47:39 -0600 From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance dance costumes Message-ID: ximss-20087...@cgpb3.cgp.netins.net Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8; format=flowed Can you recommend a seller or the correct search terms to find sari fabric in this price range? I've been looking but all I can find is cotton petticoats or custom wedding saris and other expensive sari. Denise fabrics or -if you have some time- order actual saris online. You can easily order a lot of them from the same seller for little $$. Most saris go for about $10 on ebay with an actual lot of them going for 7 for $50. Since each sari is about 5 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 10th/11th-century/early 12th-century poncho cloak
Hi, I've been looking at the available drawings of 10th/11th century/early 12th century clothing in England--many of them done in the Byzantine art style Gale Owen-Crocker calls fussy in _Dress in Anglo-Saxon England_, which makes it hard to know what to take literally. But as a weaver I've always been skeptical of the idea that those cloaks that are longer and fuller in back than in front were made from a rectangle or oval with an off-center slit. It's an era when fulling and waulking were not sufficient to felt up a woollen enough to avoid having to finish cut edges; everyday clothing styles avoid horizontal seams because they introduced structural weakness, the weight of the garment pulling the weave apart at the seam. According to _Medieval Clothing Reconstructed_, even as late as the 14th century, raw edges on woollens were finished meticulously in a three-step process, possibly a belt-and-suspenders approach to preventing raveling even on relatively un-stressed edges. So! I just can't see cutting a slit with the grain of the fabric right where the whole weight of the garment is going to be pulling on the cut. So I've been messing around with a coarse handwoven woollen from Fabric Mart after machine washing and drying it to full/felt a bit, and have come up with something that gives me the look of those cloaks. (I'm thinking like Emma of Normandy, but they are all over the available images except I can't find them this morning! Oh, here's one: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/rhuddlan/images/970-aethelwold.html and here: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/rhuddlan/images/97x-robert.html and here http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/rhuddlan/images/97x-boethius.html http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/rhuddlan/images/1000-asti-cotcleof11.html) If you assume that the loom-width was around 20 to 22, this can be done with only two, relatively short, raw edges to finish; and selvage for both neckline and hem. 2.5 yards gives me a calf-length back and wrist-length front. When it's sewn rather than safety-pinned I'll see if I can get a photo to post, along with a diagram. The main thing is to fold the piece so it's now 1.25 yard! s x the 22 loom width. Sew one selvage to itself from the cut edge to within about 10 of the fold. The seam is the center back, the unsewn part is the neck-hole, and you end up with a cone- shaped garment that drapes very much like the drawings. If you want to make a curve in the back hem, you're now cutting mostly edges that are already cut, so this design detail doesn't add significantly to the work involved. Since the necklines are almost always concealed by drapery or women's veils, it's hard to know whether they bothered to shape the shoulders or neckline any further than this, but they wouldn't have needed to. Now the neckline stress is on a selvage and is pulling mostly on the bias over the shoulders, rather than with the grain, so the weave is less likely to separate. It stays in place, and the wrist-length front means you can continue to do work with your hands quite easily. (I've been wearing it around this morning since our heat is out.) If you turn it around, ! you can pull it over your head for a kind of hood. And there's! at least one picture where a woman has thrown the long fronts of her cloak over her shoulders. So, I imagine I'm not the first to think of this -- has this construction been tried and/or rejected by others? I have some ideas about the vexing thigh-bands, too, but I haven't done the doll-size experiments yet. AND I'm working on the soft triple pleats that recur on a lot of veils, but I haven't quite got them yet. But I do think I'm close on the poncho-cloak and would love to hear from others about it. Leofwyn Weaver, and/or Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Historical Clothing Pattern Site
I am getting a screen that informs me the site is down for maintenance, to wit: Maintenance Mode Historical Clothing Patterns is currently undergoing scheduled maintenance. Please try back in 2 days, 4 hours, and 16 minutes (on September 25, 2011 at 12:58 am). Sorry for the inconvenience. - Original Message - From: Simone Bryan cil...@dracolore.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2011 4:00:14 PM Subject: [h-cost] New Historical Clothing Pattern Site Hi, I have been trying to get into this site so that I could check things out, I have asked several of my friends and no one seems to know who the person is, except, I did get a little blurb it is one of the people who create Costumes for Simplicitybut I have not heard anything validation on that. Here is the link, in case anyone has better luck than I! http://historicalclothingpatterns.com/wp-patternstudio/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Reasonably priced silk socks
I write them once in a while to ask that they make an over-the-knee version. So far, no joy. Do you think if we *all* wrote them at once, they'd add a longer version to their range? Lauren - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, September 5, 2011 7:27:26 PM Subject: [h-cost] Reasonably priced silk socks http://www.wintersilks.com/search.aspx?searchterm=spunsilk%20sock I am not saying these are 100% accurate for any era. But if you want a look of stockings, made of real silk, and you are not showing anything above your knees, these are very available and the price is great. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Not to be a naysaying jerk or anything, but actually ready-made quilting is authentic, per se; that doesn't mean the stuff we can get now is the same thing. But professional quilters in Europe did petticoat panels that were sold, including exported to America. So no need to feel like you're cheating with the ready-made. The trouble with trying to fit a quilted petticoat under a 1770s gown is of course that the gown is open from waist to hem, so you can't do what they did when quilted petticoats came back into fashion amongst the Victorians and sew a quilted lower half to a plain upper piece. But in period the quilting might have started at the knee, so you could take the stuffing out of the top part, thus less bulk. They also appear to have been less gathered and more shaped than standard petticoats -- so not a ginormous dart but a slightly more A-line cut than your usual 1770s petticoat. I mean, I'm sure you thought of all this already; I'm just in one of those compulsive-helpfulness moods. Too little sleep. Right now what's on my dummy (I still don't actually HAVE a dummy but what's all over my workroom) is income taxes. But then I have a yummy yellow-and-red shot taffeta to make a crispy petticoat from. Lauren - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 11:55:46 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing? 1770's stays, pocket hoops made of striped ticking, calico petticoat, and yards or ready made quilted silk that I am trying to wrastle into a quilted petticoat, without it adding 6 to the waist measurement. The only way it makes sense is to take a ginormous dart from waist to hem - not authentic, but then neither is ready made quilting! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Organization
The Iris is neat -- I like the modularity, since you can get extra project cases. Thanks! - Original Message - From: susan...@juno.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 1:30:57 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [h-cost] Organization Here is what project organization I have. I too use the big ziplock bags. I store them in rectangular baskets or plastic tubs if I have several of them going at once. This way I can flip through them like files and find what I am looking for. I also use an Iris Scrapbook chest http://www.spacesavers.com/scrapbookchest.html to keep portable handwork projects in. I just grab the case I want and go. For bigger projects, I hang the fabric or big cut pieces over a hanger bar and put the smaller pieces in a bag and loop the handles over the hanger hook. Susan If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A. Einstein Hi, all, How do you store projects? I have a lot of those big Rubbermaid tubs for storing yardgoods; but what do you use for keeping individual projects together--pattern, fabric, etc.? I've been using 2-gallon industrial size Ziploc bags, but they are slippery, and from time to time I have a project avalanche. I mean, yes, I should probably only have one project going at a time and then it wouldn't matter so much. But since I don't, any suggestions? Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net http://www.timetraveltextiles.com Click to find great rates on life insurance, save big, shop here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/PnY6rbuo3Phdir2fGgqYVNa0h9zqo8UVsmv1XVkwVK54seTBZRdtO/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] About Aurora Silk (was Re: 100% Silk Velvet is available)
Despite the talk of health benefits and etc. on the site, Aurora Silk is an incredibly honest and high-quality vendor. Cheryl Kolander is an expert with natural dyes, and when searching for what could have been done with natural dyestuffs in period her sample cards are an invaluable resource. She is also involved in a program to provide logwood for natural dyes while providing jobs and sustainable agriculture in one of the poorest parts of the world -- again, if you deal with re-enactors who need authenticity but like purple or black, logwood is to be encouraged! Her dyed silk threads, while expensive, are beyond beautiful; and she understand the multiple reasons you might have for wanting to know what's in your fabric and how it was made. I would be more than surprised if her 100% silk were not 100% silk. Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net http://www.timetraveltextiles.com On Jan 18, 2009, at 4:15 PM, Kathy Stormberg wrote: I have not seen it yet (I just ordered a yard), but this seller has undyed 100% silk velvet. Here is the link:http:// www.aurorasilk.com/fabrics/silks_shiny/ALLSILKVELVET.htmlHere is the description from the website:All the silk velvet I've seen on the market has been RAYON pile inserted into a woven silk back. This allows the popular burnt out velvet because acids will burn the cellulose of the rayon, but not appreciably damage the silk. Rayon pile is not the same as silk pile! Visually, it is glassier, and of course does not dye like the silk at all.Silk feels so wonderful, rayon does not. The electricity of silk means that wearing this 100% silk pile side next to the skin has the physiological effect of feeding the body with energy!Machine woven of reeled cultivated silk, very even and standard. Because the weave is so tight, this is a most durable velvet. Dyes beautifully. Drapes incredibly, especially when cut on the bias. VERY LIMITED SUPPLY!It is $60/yard for 1-4 yards, 5+ yards are $50/yard.-Kathymy crafty blog: www.medievalartcraft.blogspot.com _ Windows Live™: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore? ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_012009 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Plaid Taffeta:
In addition to the suggestions from others on the list, a possibility for shipping heavy fabric is to make use of the USPS Priority Mail Flat-Rate Box. http://www.usps.com/shipping/prioritymail.htm The box itself is free; at the time of mailing, no matter what the package weighs, it will ship for the current flat-rate price (at present, this is $9.80 for domestic US). I use the 11x3x13 size for up to about 10 yards of 45 wide medium weight cotton fabric. There's also a 12x12x5 version that holds about 50% more, according to the usps Web site, so that might hold up to 10 yards of your 60-inch taffeta. One advantage of the flat-rate boxes is that you can tell your customers what it will cost to ship without having to weigh the fabric or know where it is going -- it just has to physically fit into the box and be going somewhere in the US. The other advantage is that for shipping heavy fabric it is often a relative bargain. Good luck! Lauren lauren.wal...@comcast.net http://www.timetraveltextiles.com -- Original message -- From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com Hello, I am trying to clear out some of my fabric because I don't have the time to make anything with it and was thinking of putting it up on ebay. However, I am not an experienced seller and was wondering if anyone would be able to suggest what may be the best way to go about listing it. I currently have (although I do not know for sure) about 30 yards in total of plaid acetate taffeta, 60 wide that I was going to use for costuming. Should I sell it by the yard or sell it in large chunks? 15 yards of that stuff weighs a ton and shipping would be astronomical. That is the part I am most unsure of at this time, is how I can possibly calculate shipping rates when I don't know where it will be going or how much anyone will want. Thanks alot and hope anyone can offer some recommendations. -Justine:) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] women's costume late 13thC
Do the fillets on the heads mean these troubadours were young girls? Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com -- Original message -- From: Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hey guys, I thought that you may find these two portraits interesting: http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg92detail.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/Portraits/pg93detail.jpg Note the cut of the sideless surcote and the minimal headcovering (a ribbon?). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta
Hi, Patty, Thanks for having faith in me! I did mis-speak -- I meant to call vinegar an acid and soap a base. Audrey-- thank you for the explanation. I didn't think of soaps attacking animal fibers, but that makes sense. Thanks again to you both! Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com -- Original message -- From: Rickard, Patty [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sounds like she just wrote base when she meant acid (in the vinegar) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 1:29 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta An question: what is it about the vinegar rinse that restores crispness? Is it just the base neutralizing the soap residue, or something more interesting? The exact opposite. Soaps, detergents, and other things of the kind, are almost always basic, except for some very specific products made for specific purposes (washing sheep, for example). The problem with bases is that they attack animal fibers (dissolve them, in fact - which is why wool and silk - as well as human skin and hair - dissolve in bleach). Of course, soaps and detergents are far from being as basic as bleach, so the damage is minor. Silk, being an animal fiber, is attacked by the high (basic) pH. Lowering (acidifying) the pH, neutralizes this undesirable effect, so to speak. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] women's costume late 13thC
Uh-oh. Whenever I let slip that I think anything might be evidence of the existence of unconventional persons in any time period before the 19th century, I know that shortly I will get shot down for it. You guys better duck! ;-) Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com -- Original message -- From: Maggie [EMAIL PROTECTED] I was just thinking that very thing. Sort of romanticizing this apparently Bohemian (in the hippy sense) woman. On Thu, Nov 13, 2008 at 11:18 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote: It is interesting that all of the women's portraits of both manuscripts (the few that were there) show this. Much more variation in headgear in the men's portraits. Informal settings? Maybe to show an unconventional lifestyle? Hippies of the 13th C? Beth Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:31:38 + From: Anne Probably not - a troubadour is a composer, and the vida, or biography, of Castelloza says she was married. But it was a fairly unconventional thing for a woman to do, and who knows what later Venetians might have thought she would have worn? Jean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html or your favorite online bookseller ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Garment-fitting question
Hi, Making historical costumes fitted to myself and others has made me so much more critical of the ways modern commercial clothes make me look even worse than I have to! I gained a bunch of weight over the past couple of years that I'm having trouble getting rid of, and yet I still have to get dressed every day and leave the house. Sigh. The particular problem I am having with modern clothes is that things that are big enough to go around my current girth are cut too long from waist to hip. This gives some skirts and dresses a pot belly all on their own, independent of mine. Is there any relatively simple alteration to the clothes that would fix this, while I am working on the alterations to my shape? I know I could take the waistbands off skirts and shorten the length from waist to hip, so the skirt gets big where I do; one-piece dresses seem to present a harder puzzle. In fact I'm a little confused about how they manage to produce the paunch when they're not actually tight anywhere. Any suggestions? Thank you. Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garment-fitting question
Yeah, thank you. The petites are usually too short above the waist or too stingy in the bust. That's why I was hoping to be able to alter regular items instead. Thanks again. Lauren -- Original message -- From: Kim Baird [EMAIL PROTECTED] You might look for petite sizes. They are made for persons with shorter torsos. Kim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 3:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Garment-fitting question Hi, Making historical costumes fitted to myself and others has made me so much more critical of the ways modern commercial clothes make me look even worse than I have to! I gained a bunch of weight over the past couple of years that I'm having trouble getting rid of, and yet I still have to get dressed every day and leave the house. Sigh. The particular problem I am having with modern clothes is that things that are big enough to go around my current girth are cut too long from waist to hip. This gives some skirts and dresses a pot belly all on their own, independent of mine. Is there any relatively simple alteration to the clothes that would fix this, while I am working on the alterations to my shape? I know I could take the waistbands off skirts and shorten the length from waist to hip, so the skirt gets big where I do; one-piece dresses seem to present a harder puzzle. In fact I'm a little confused about how they manage to produce the paunch when they're not actually tight anywhere. Any suggestions? Thank you. Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] washing silk crepe (was Washing silk taffeta)
Hi, I find that silk crepes vary more than wools, and so it bears repeating that one should always test a sample to be sure. BUT, that said, I have a bunch of purchased blouses (!) made of silk crepe, and if I hand wash them in cold and hang to dry, they come out about the same size they went in. The one caveat with a really crinkly crepe is you will have to iron it (very damp) to get it to resume its original size; the crepe weave likes to crinkle up on itself. I hope this was useful. Thanks! Lauren -- Original message -- From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- On Tue, 11/11/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: and of course I wash silk crepe blouses all the time. Hi again Lauren, Does silk crepe shrink or get thicker much? I am pondering buying some and dyeing it, but I don't want to use it if it is going to really shrink a lot, like wool crepe does. Thank you, Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Washing silk taffeta
An question: what is it about the vinegar rinse that restores crispness? Is it just the base neutralizing the soap residue, or something more interesting? Geekly, Lauren Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com On Nov 11, 2008, at 10:57 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote: The trouble with that is that silk taffeta has water soluble sizing so it's not going to be as stiff after washing. Well, yes, all silk (except maybe noil) does, to a certain extent. It might, or might not, be a problem. Thing is, you won't know until you try it with your particular piece of fabric. Also, to give it back some of its crispiness, add some vinegar to the rinse water. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Washing silk taffeta
Hi, Can anyone tell me what happens to silk taffeta when it is washed in soap and water? I have machine washed and dried a lot of silk dupioni, and am very pleased with the fabric that results (it shrinks a lot, but the resulting fabric is thus denser and more closely-woven; the colors and shine don't seem to be hurt by the process, but it is softer) and of course I wash silk crepe blouses all the time. And I will probably just run the experiment on some taffeta to find out for myself; but I would be grateful for information on what to expect if anyone has experince to share. Does it lose all crispness? Thanks! Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hongreline, and velvet
Thanks! Mike T sent me a note that the 17th century women's version might be like the bedgown-like garment in Vermeer's Woman Holding a Balance; the French written sources my online search turned up all were versions of the one C. sent (below), from which it is hard to tell if the women's version was loose, as in the Vermeer, or fitted (serreé à la taille seems to mean close-fitting; à grandes basques seems to mean with full skirts, but I am just at the beginnings of learning to translate historical-fashion French). Some of the men's military versions look fitted; some look like an attempt to fit a fur-lined garment, and some seem open, like in the Vermeer. But what version would be made in blue velvet to appeal to a 17th- century fairy? ;-) la hongreline, sorte de veste à basques longues agrafée sur le devant et serrée à la taille. HONGRELINE, s. f. (Gram. mod.) sorte d'ajustement des femmes, fait en chemisette à grandes basques. On prétend qu'il a été ainsi appellé, parce que l'usage en est venu de Hongrie. So far the only pictures I have found that identify a garment as a hongreline in the captions or titles are all military, like this one. Third figure in this picture is an officer in a (presumably military) hongreline (sorry for the long link, must learn to use tinyURL soon): http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital_dev/ dgkeysearchdetail.cfm? trg=1strucID=707231imageID=830336total=2num=0word=Musketeers%20-- %20French%20--% 201600-1699s=3notword=d=c=f=2k=0lWord=lField=sScope=sLevel=sL abel=imgs=20pos=1e=w Another question while I am here: I've been reading TH Breen's _The Marketplace of Revolution_ ,which I recommend to anybody doing 18th Century American historical costume, as to make his case he's assembled a lot of information from varied sources on the social connotations of clothing made of imported goods. Among the materials he quotes are published rants about people dressing above their station, and the threat to good order represented by maids in chintz. In at least one of these, the rant-writer is upset that even servant- girls go about in velvet. I had been under the impression that in 18th century fashion, velvet was primarily used in men's garments. Anybody have an example of a woman's velvet anything in the English colonies of North America in the 1700s? Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Oct 10, 2008, at 6:07 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I found the following in a quick search that was full of non- functioning hotlinks. Hmmph! It does not add much; let me catch up with my assistant and whip her into returning my fashion dictionaries to see what's said. It is odd that there are no easy-to-find pics of the feamle version, it does sound a little like an 18-19th century riding coat sitting tight over the body and flairing for the skirt. -C. The hongreline was a mid-thigh-length surtout or overcoat of the frock style, usually trimmed and/or lined with fur developed and popularized during the mid- 17th Century. Brought from Germany, the hongreline was popular in France during the reign of Louis XIII. The hongreline was both worn by military and civilians. At the end of the reign, a variation on the hongreline developed in the military; a sort of front-buttoned coat with a split in the rear near the hips. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hongreline
This is great! Thank you. I appreciate getting both the translation and the original; it helps me learn the French historical-fashion vocabulary. And finally a definition that is aware of both the men's and the women's versions, and explains the fur and not-fur. I would like the line drawings if they are not too much trouble. Thank you also for the background on the Grimms' dictionary. This is something I should have known, and now I do! Thanks again, Lauren Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Oct 10, 2008, at 7:05 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote: The dictionary just happens to be a BIG project the Grimm brothers worked on. It is still the standard for German etymology. No connection to the fairy tales. I am not sure there is a connection between the line/lein endings...I just thought there might be because someone said that it was brought back (from Hungary) by the Germans Sometimes you can actually find the connection between the languages because of the similartity. Kind of like verdingale and farthingale. Here is what my buddy Katherine had to say from the German list: (If you would like the line drawings from the dictionary, I am sure Katherine would oblige) Not German, French! Hongreline (s.f.) La hongreline fut une sorte de surtout porté au début du XVIIe siécle par-dessus le pourpoint. Elle était à peu près ajustée; d'abord les manches, non cousues aux entournures, y étaient liées par des aiguillettes, puis elles firent corps avec le vêtement d'hiver, bordé et même doublé de fourrure. Les femmes portérent jusque sous Louis XIV, des hongrelines à manches et à basques, mais non fourrées. [Hongreline (feminine) The hongreline was a sort of overdress worn at the beginning of the 17th century over the pourpoint. It was a little tailored, mostly in the sleeves, which were not sewn into the armholes, and were tied in with aglets, added to the body of the garment for winter wear, bordered or even lined with fur. Women wore this into the reign of Louis XIV, with sleeves and skirts, but not furred.] (translation mine) From: Dictionnaire du costume et de ses accessoires, des armes et des étoffes, des origines à nos jours. Achevé et réalisé sous la direction de André Dupuis. Préf. de G.G.-Toudouze. Author: Leloir, Maurice, 1853-1940. Publication: Paris, Gründ [1961, c1951] The Dictionary has some line drawings that will help the person with the query. The garment is similar to: http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/BRGPOD/ 259768~Constantijn-Huygens-Posters.jpg The red garments here are also similar: http://www.artsmia.org/mia/e_images/10/mia_10450e.jpg SG, drop me a note off line if you want more details. Katherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] hongreline
Hi, I was reading Mme. dAulnoy's Princess Mayblossom (I have kind of a thing for the whole 13th-fairy figure) and in this version http:// www.surlalunefairytales.com/authors/aulnoy/1892/ princessmayblossom.html, the fairies who were invited to the baby's birth were promised quite the gift bag: And to reward them for their trouble, they were promised a hongreline (Note 1) of blue velvet, a skirt of amaranth velvet, and slippers of crimson satin, a pair of little gilden scissors, and a case full of fine needles. Note 1 says a hongreline is a Hungarian coat. A little further poking on the Web suggests it was a fur-lined or fur-trimmed justaucorps. I have found a couple of pictures of a military/men's version, but have not tracked down the female version that seems most likely to be of interest to skirt-wearing fairies. The outfit does a kind of spectrum thing, head to toes blue-purple-red (amaranth is a purpleish red). Anyway D'Aulnoy is 17th century, so I am looking for any clues on where to find a picture of a woman's 17th century hongreline. Any advice would be most helpful. No wonder the disinvited fairy was angry -- gilden scissors and a case full of fine needles! Later on the queen is so grateful she gives the fairies ribbons, too, which they loved. These fairies sound kind of like costumers... Thank you! Lauren Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] More on hongreline
Looking further at sites in French, I find that the hongreline was a jacket with long skirts that was closed in front and close-fitting. Still no picture though! Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for bad examples of costuming...
sorry to be dense, but are you looking for pictures to persuade her it is a bad idea, or pictures to work from to try to accede to her request? You might get by with partially boning the bodice of the dress itself or something. Darn -- Moresca.com has taken its site down for repairs; I remember them as having pictures of women both in and out of corsetry in both large and small bodies. Good luck! Lauren -- Original message -- From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Okay, this is weird request I know. I have someone who wants me to make her a sort of accurate gown - This is an example of what she is looking for: http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-vers ailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a medical condition. I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right undergarmentsbut I was looking for some examples I might show her. So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper undergarments. Even if the style isn't the same - I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper undergarments: http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm Thanks, Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for bad examples)
Oh, Kate, I am so sorry! Your situation, though, also leads to another question for me: If Saragrace's client cannot wear a corset for any of these reasons, how uncomfortable is she going to be in the gown she's chosen without one? For me, the corsetry is helpful in *supporting* that kind of skirtage; without it, you've got a ton of skirt pulling on you. My main corset problems are asthma/allergies and fat. On a bad day -- humid, smoky, moldy, polleny -- it can just be one thing too many to fight against the stays to breathe. The better the stays fit the less of a problem it is. Saragrace -- I assume you have the whole, stays are not that uncomfortable, and before the 19th century tight-lacing was not the point song and dance by heart? I know some large women who surprise themselves by *liking* stays. Lauren -- Original message -- From: Ailith [EMAIL PROTECTED] I can no longer wear my beloved Italian gowns because I simply can't bear the constriction of a corset. I have nerve damage due to Guillain-Barre Syndrome. Just wearing a bra is torturous for me. :-( I'd give a lot to be able to wear my gowns again. Kate http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Just *off* the worktable (I can't have a dummy until we either buy a house or decide to live in two separate condos; a woodworker and a string geek bring too much equipment to an 800-square foot apartment) is the petticoat to match the cute 18th-century jacket I had the Silly Sisters make for me. They are made from one of the Indian cottons I sell; I'm hoping to try the outfit on this week and get some pictures up on the Web site. yeah, I know, having somebody else make the jacket is cheating. Back ON the worktable now is the scandalous turmeric yellow with red springs cotton gown I'm making out of a nine-yard sungudi sari. This one is also 18th century; the fabric is too thin for the amount of abuse the gown will get, so I have backed it througout with a yellow cotton/linen blend, and am sewing the two layers as if they were one, rather than as if it were lined -- though since I started I've found rather a lot of paintings that appear to show gowns lined in the skirts. The! yellow is the same as in this one: http://timetraveltextiles.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PRODStore_Code=TTTProduct_Code=S174Category_Code=S but the sprigs are a more orangey red and are, well, flowery sprigs instead of circles and squares. I've got the back pleats done and have sewn the bodice fronts to the back, but still have to add the rest of the skirts, finish the front, make sleeves, and then perhaps trim it. But my happiest recent accomplishment is that I finally finished a second 18th century linen shift. Although the gowns are often held together with the flimisiest of construction, 18th-century shifts were built like brick outhouses; so it's taken me forever to get around to nailing one together. I've ordered some beautiful silver sleeve buttons to celebrate: http://www.historicdelights.com/misc.htm Since I've started cooking at re-enactor events, I'm also making aprons every chance I get. I've also got twelve yards of a blue brocade that will someday be my first 18th c saque-back. Usually I spend the winter doing Dark Ages-early medieval sewing, but lately I keep finding fabrics that inspire 18th century things instead. So competing with the saque is a pretty blue and brown Norwich wool stripe from which I hope to make a cozy everyday gown for the cooler months. I think when I get back to my Angles and Saxons and Vikings it'll be weaving rather than stitching for a while. I want to make some winingas and some belt and fillet tapes. I may make some hoods/coifs, too; and of course I need some more medieval shifts, too! L'shanah tovah to all! Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Some new repro fabrics
Hi, all, I have added a few new 18th-century reproduction cotton print fabrics to my store: I have some of Windham Fabrics' Colonial Williamsburg- inspired prints for $8.50, a couple of Duran Textiles' repro cottons; and one Den Haan and Wagenmakers' Dutch chintz. These prints are crisp and neatly-registered (unlike my usual India cottons); all but one are on cream white grounds; and they are all based upon artifact prints, if not exact copies. The descriptions with each fabric attempt to describe its degree of authenticity. I also include nice big scans of the fabrics, with a ruler to give scale. I hope you will take a look. They can be found at http:// timetraveltextiles.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? Screen=CTGYStore_Code=TTTCategory_Code=NEW Thank you for indulging this commercial message. We now return you to your regularly-scheduled program. Best, Lauren Lauren M. Walker http://www.timetraveltextiles.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Silver Fox Fur Repair
You may end up having to glue it to something anyway -- the skins on my vintage mink are so fragile that if I re-stitch it, it just tears again. -- Original message -- From: Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED] If the fur is going to be a lost cause in the end this is what I would try: purchase some very thin pigskin (dress glove weight) and glue it to the hide side of the fox. Use a flexible leather glue. I'm sure that is not the way a conservator would do it, but if you want it to be sturdy enough to use it needs a sturdy base. Otherwise you are faced with restitching all the fur pieces together with new thread, I think. Denise ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] modest
The neck-handkerchief of 18th-century women's fashion at some point in the 19th began to be called a modesty piece. The term still gets applied occasionally to a triangle of fabric inserted in a low V neckline to conceal the cleavage. Lauren -- Original message -- From: Claire Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message: 1 Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 20:30:49 +0200 From: Leif og Bjarne Drews Subject: [h-cost] modest To: Historical Costume Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Is there an english term of a piece of clothing called a modest? In a danish inventory there is the term of modester in plural, have never heard that word before. Its inventories from 1720 and 1730. Bjarne You know I'm sure I've heard the term 'modester' in an English costume context, but I really can't think where. It just rings bells. Is it possible the term uses 'mode' in the sense of fashion eg wasn't 'modiste' an 18th term for a women's tailor or seamstress? Claire/Angharad ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming
Oh, this is too much fun! I make pouches for small bits of sewing gear out of pieces as small as 2 x 4. Also, pincushions and needlebooks -- wool is very kind to the steel, so I stuff with wool or use wool felt if I don't have scrap flannel for the pages. I've started lining and fitting boxes with pretty velvet and brocade scraps, and then once they're fitted out, of course THEY need a little drawstring bag to protect them. Er, I also make drawstring bags for my modern stuff, like the GPS and the iPod. Helps to disguise them if they should stray into a re-enacting event, too. Bigger pieces make lovely drawstring workbags. It is great to have multiple workbags, so I can have one for each unfinished project. Fancier pouches are nice, too, and a nice way to show off really lovely scraps. Hats. Doll clothes. I am planning to make mitts from an old silk half-slip and from some linen off-cuts. This requires enough fabric to cut the mitts on the bias, and these mitts are 18th C (I don't know if they were worn in other periods.) Pieced, sewn hose. Gussets. Aprons. At least in 18th C there's a rumor of wool aprons, which would indeed be great for hearth-cooking. A number of my linen aprons are pieced from off-cuts. Since I do 18th C, anything a yard square or bigger can be hemmed for a neck-handkerchief. A lot of my linen scraps end up being employed as bands and ties and things to try to restrain my hair under caps and wigs (it's growing out but still needs some help.) I keep meaning to make some coifs for this purpose; I wear a nice big linen headrail when I'm medieval, but it's nice to have something tied down underneath to pin it to. Napkins, cozies, towels, coasters, hot-grabbers (period and otherwise.) Did I mention drawstring bags? I make scraps in drawstring bags for tableware, too. Basket-covers. Nearly every woman I know who does any kind of historical playing uses a basket to stand in for a handbag; at minimum it's nice to have a piece of fabric to throw over the contents. I keep meaning to make some bags fitted to the interior of the basket so I can easily shift contents. OK. Back to work... Lauren -- Original message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful. I have a bunch of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples. I have tons of linen off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be flatlined. I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many trips to the local Pendleton outlet. I have no idea what to do with it all. I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics. Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size: Doublet, for myself or my husband Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool) Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate) Coif/caul flatlining for pickadills (linen only) I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often. Curious what others do, Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fabric search
Fashionfabricsclub.com (which is now the same as denverfabric.com) and fabric.com get new stuff all the time, so your wool might show up if you can wait a bit and keep checking back--I think they get new mill ends from the retail clothing manufacturers, so the fall-winter stuff should start coming in soon. Class Act Fabrics has a 70% wool 30% nylon blanket weight red plaid right now: http://classactfabrics.com/wool/wool_fabric.htm Renaissance Fabrics http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?section=W has an auburn and green plaid 100% wool. William Booth, Draper, http://wmboothdraper.com/ has a red and white bag hose check in wool. Burnley Trowbridge has a black watch plaid wool on its site; they usually have lots more fabrics that are not posted on-line, so it might be worth e-mailing them with your request: http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/index.asp Good luck! Lauren -- Original message -- From: Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am searching for wool (coat or blanket weight) in a red or blue plaid. I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid. I've looked through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors: fabric.com denverfabric.com joann.com hancock fabrics.com trimfabrics.com as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby. We found the perfect *color* plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which won't do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored polarfleece product, but that would be a last choice. Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search? Thanks! Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Linen Bias Tape
Depending on what you're doing, you may want straight-grain tape rather than bias. In which case there are several sources: http://wmboothdraper.com/TapeLace/tapelace.htm#Linen is my current favorite. These guys also carry it: http://woodedhamlet.com/tapes_braids/dutch_linentape.html There may be others -- try a google search on sutlers, especially 18th century. It's sort of a staple of 18th C garment construction. I've never seen a bias tape in linen. Lauren -- Original message -- From: Martha Oser [EMAIL PROTECTED] Anyone have a source for linen bias tape? I have absolutely no patience for making my own bias tape and I'd like some for a linen shirt I plan to make for my husband. I found a 50/50 linen/cotton blend tape here: http://www.superbuzzy.com/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=83_85produ cts_id=3158 Anyone used it? Should I pre-wash it as I pre-wash the fabric so that it's pre-shrunk? Many thanks! -Helena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest
If you search the ISBN (0333570820) on Amazon US, they have a placeholder page ready for it. Don't know what that means exactly, but there it is. -- Original message -- From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Sarah! Monica (Catriona) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of SPaterson Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:10 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Headwear-1540-1665/dp/ 0333570820/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8s=booksqid=1211385839sr=8-11 Sarah - Original Message - From: monica spence To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:02 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest Hi Scarlett-- I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the book? Thanks, Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest Good morning, I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now is taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is november 7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00 pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but not as low as it was a few years ago. Scarlett ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] PS: Re: Janet Arnold latest
PS: Blackwell's says it will send it for $61.66 US (plus $7.20 SH) when it's available. http://bookshop.blackwell.com/jsp/display_product_info.jsp?isbn=9780333570821 -- Original message -- From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Sarah! Monica (Catriona) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of SPaterson Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:10 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Headwear-1540-1665/dp/ 0333570820/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8s=booksqid=1211385839sr=8-11 Sarah - Original Message - From: monica spence To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:02 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest Hi Scarlett-- I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the book? Thanks, Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest Good morning, I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now is taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is november 7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00 pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but not as low as it was a few years ago. Scarlett ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Reference question
Hi, all, Do you know, has anyone done a modern reprint of: An Account of the robberies committed by John Morrison, and his accomplices, in and near Philadelphia, 1750 : Together with the manner of their being discover'd, their behaviour on their tryals, in the prison after sentence, and at the place of execution. Philadelphia, : Printed [by Anthony Armbruster?], in the year 1750-1. T.H. Breen (among others) refers to it as containing detailed lists of everything Morrison stole. I can download it from the networked (online) resources of the Harvard Library, but I thought it possible someone had reprinted it. Thanks! Lauren Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction
Hi, This may be stupid, but -- aren't their pocket *slits* in some of the Herjolfsnes/Greenland finds? Which would suggest underlying pockets 13th century, even though they don't show up in paintings. Lauren ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction
Thanks for the clarification, Robin, and sorry about the century -- I'm obsessed with the, like, three 13th century pieces out of the Greenland finds so I forget that the vast majority of stuff was later. -- Original message -- From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This may be stupid, but -- aren't their pocket *slits* in some of the Herjolfsnes/Greenland finds? Which would suggest underlying pockets 13th century, even though they don't show up in paintings. The pocket slits in 14th c. clothing are generally understood as being a way to provide access to a belt, fastened over an underdress but below an overdress, holding a pouch or other items out of sight. It's not absolutely certain, though. The Herjolfsnes finds date mostly from the very late 14th c., not the 13th. Some bits appear to be rather earlier or later but I don't think they're relevant to this question. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction
Congratulations on buying a house. If I were having a less stupid day I would make some kind of clever observation about your name and home ownership. Anyway, congrats and best wishes! Lauren -- Original message -- From: Exstock [EMAIL PROTECTED] In case anyone had trouble finding the pocket on the Museo Del Traje website, here's the enlarged photo: http://snipurl.com/290d3 [museodeltraje_mcu_es] And here's the inventory [inventario] number: CE000790 As far as when they started carrying pockets goes, brace yourselves as I make a completely non-costume-geek-like statement: I mean really, how different are separate pockets and pouches anyway?! Ok, sorry, just having a moment. Carry on. -E House (just bought her first house about 30 minutes ago) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Clothes of the common man/woman
Uh-oh. A challenge! *grin* Lauren Walker aka [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Original message -- From: Kass McGann [EMAIL PROTECTED] Of interest is the note at the bottom: Historical Management Associates Ltd. makes a range of historically-correct fabrics such as frieze, kersey, russet, cotton and say. --Robin I saw their offerings the last time I was in the UK. Awesome stuff. Limited in colour and availability, but the real deal -- made from period fleeces and everything. And of course outrageously expensive, especially with the sinking dollar. Unfortunately I don't think they sell to the US. You kinda have to go to them. Kass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Vintage patterns and clothing, cigarette smoke
Hi, all, I am helping my 82-year-old parents clear out their house in preparation for moving to something more manageable. My mom used to sew, and I am finding boxes and boxes of patterns from the 60s and 70s -- Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's, Vogue. Likewise, there are four double closets full of, um, typical suburban clothes and shoes, mostly from the 70s. My question is whether there is a market for them, given that they have been kept for 40 years in a house with at least two and sometimes four cigarette smokers. Everything in the house has a strong cigarette smoke smell; many things are brown with what I guess is deposited tar. (Veimru: Yuck.) So before I tell my dad it should all go in a dumpster, I just wanted to check whether there was any point in trying to find a buyer for them. Likewise, though off-topic (because they are not costume books; apparently I developed that obsession on my own) are the books in the house rendered worthless by the smoke and tar? I am also hoping for some suggestions about how to get the smell out of the clothes, patterns, or books that I might want to save. Thanks for any thoughts you might share. Lauren [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Crill's Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West
Hi, I just got my copy of Rosemary Crill's Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West. Oh WOW. Eighty-eight color plates. A beautiful, wonderful, book -- and for me, kind of the Missing Link on 17th and 18th century Indian fabrics for the European and American markets. It's gorgeous. Just had to share my excitement. Lauren Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.timetraveltextiles.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
My first thought would be to go with the late Victorian/Edwardian. You have to be careful with mourning customs earlier, but thanks to Queen Victoria, by then it had become fashionable to spend your life in mourning -- or just look like you were. And 5 1/3 yards might get you to a late Vict. gown or walking suit or walking skirt -- probably too little for a mid-century giant hoopskirt, but once they narrow back down again somewhat you're in the ballpark. Anyway, enjoy! -- Original message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I just scored 5 1/3 yards of linen blend at my local Joanne's on clearance for only $3.00/yard! The only trouble is that it is black linen - but I thought Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that! My question to the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors as well, but what periods, styles or types of garments could I use with the black? Bodices? Petticoats? Dresses? I'm open to most periods - mostly involved in Renaissance Faires - but also love Regency and late Victorian/ Edwardian. There is no hurry for this -- I just need to know some possiblities. Thanks to y'alls collective wisdom. Donna Scarfe Fyne Hats By Felicity **The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. Go to AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp0030002565) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries
I'm curious -- has Thora Sharptooth weighed in on this on Norsefolk? I'd be interested in her thoughts. Lauren -- Original message -- From: Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2 list. Here is an image of her reconstruction: see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48 http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825 Beth At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote: Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 + From: Linda Walton I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group members:- Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than previously believed. ... When the area around Lake Mälaren was Christianized about a century later, womens dress style became more modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson. It's from The Local - Sweden's News in English http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/ What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction! Linda Walton, (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] white wool stockings
One more cent on stockings: http://www.sockdreams.com/_shop/edit/index.php I don't know if they will ship overseas to Bjarne but I have been enjoying their variety of wool and cotton stockings since I found them about two months ago. Most are not 100% but some are close, and the size information and reviews are very helpful (and I have found them truthful so far). Also some of their brands are European, so maybe he could seek them out locally. Lauren -- Original message -- From: Kate Pinner [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you're looking for heavy, I've had luck with soccer socks -- they stay up better than others, but you have to find ones without logos or stripes on them. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sharon Collier Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 6:02 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: RE: [h-cost] white wool stockings If not in the women's department, try a hiking/backpacking store. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 4:35 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] white wool stockings I am going to an event in Sweden in start of february the north of Sweden, where it usually is very cold for this season. I wondered if someone knows if a womans department in a big warehouse would have long knee woolen stockings wich i could wear to my 18th century outfit? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tights
These are $16, free shipping, 81% cotton. http://www.sockdreams.com/_shop/pages/socks_detail_ProductID_806.php These are 85% cotton, $19.95, probably a shipping charge: http://www.vermontcountrystore.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=5850itemType=PRODUCTiMainCat=730iSubCat=835iProductID=5850 Everything else I've seen is $20 or above -- Hannah Anderson had some mostly-cottons before Xmas on sale for about $17 but they're gone now. Lauren -- Original message -- From: Carol Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Since they have been mentioned, I thought someone might be able to help me. Target used to carry 100% cotton tights for a reasonable price, but now they carry microfiber, which my skin won't tolerate. Ditto nylon or mostly nylon blend. Silk pantyhose were available for a few months, but apparently weren't popular. I've found cotton tights for almost $20 a pair-has anyone seen any natural fibre tights for less? Thanks Carol Carol Mitchell listowner Costumemidwest www.yahoogroups.com/group/costumemidwest - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] white wool stockings
My two cents: 1) My late brother used to wear men's large Danskin ballet tights as long underwear under his (fashionably tight) jeans. I mention the male-dancer's tights as they might fit Bjarne better -- tights or pantyhose that are too small get uncomfortable pretty fast, either pulling on your kneecaps or creeping down until the crotch is between your knees. Which will be particularly uncomfy in 18th-century breeches! 2) Wikipedia says panty hose were first manufactured in 1965, but prior to that, there were little girls' and dancers' tights -- I remember having them as a toddler at least as early as 1960. Wikipedia attributes the full-body leotard (which went to the ankles) to, ahem, Jules Leotard, who died in 1870. (The first recorded use of leotard to describe a dancer's or acrobat's costume in English is 1886, according to Wikipedia again.) The tights from my childhood weren't sheer like pantyhose -- indeed some of them were waffle-weave, like thermals -- but they came in flesh-tone colors (like ballet pink, a slightly peachy pale pink) and might be what you remember wearing under your marching band skirt. They would have been warmer than pantyhose; living in upstate New York, with its cold winters, I remember continuing to prefer tights to pantyhose for winter wear through the mid-70s. Actually, I prefer them today; they last far longer and usually fit better. -- Original message -- From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner [EMAIL PROTECTED] As a former marching-band member, I'd like to second (belatedly) the recommendation of pantyhose (or tights) to layer with Bjarne's period stockings. On a costume-history note: interestingly, I keep hearing that pantyhose were invented in the late 'sixties, and certainly I didn't routinely buy them for ordinary wear until '68 or so; but my friends Connie, Joyce, another Joyce, Patty, Marilyn, Rita, and Marcia would join me in testifying that our mothers found them, bought them, and saved our musical knees with them as early as 1962. Can anyone else pinpoint an earliest-available date, from her own experience? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Jan 4, 2008, at 1:08 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 1/4/2008 10:40:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The best bet may be to layer stockings. * This is what I was thinking too. Unless you want a more rustic look with the wool, I'd get a pair of pantyhose or tights. They are very warm in themselves, but put your silk stockings over them and you should be quite warmunless it's like way below freezing. The modern super-stretchy tights would be very smooth and more than likely undetectable under your correct period stockings. Even if you do get some fine wool stockings, layering may be needed to keep you warm. Are there not depictions of men in layers of different colored stockings...some rolled down a bit to show the layers underneath? Or is that too early? Too dandy? **Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
