[lace] Chinoiserie - definition for Brian in Australia
Dear Brian, When researching, perhaps you mean Chinoiserie - from China ? Chinoiserie is a very refined design style reflecting Chinese qualities or motifs. An example would be hand-painted wallpaper depicting scenes from Chinese life. Extremely rare and very expensive. Originals have been used in several rooms at Winterthur Museum in Delaware, USA. This is a museum created by Henry Francis du Pont in the early 20th C. as a setting for original 17th and 18th C. home furnishings. A quote from one of my books: "The Chinese Parlor was not really a period room but a setting carved out of several of the small rooms of the original Winterthur house. Its size was determined by the wallpaper it was to hold and its contents were arranged to show the variety of exotic influences on Chippendale furniture designs." This situation reinforces what I've recommended on Arachne - it is always best to determine how you will display handmade laces before they are made, so they will "fit" a particular frame, window, table top, neckline of a dress, etc. Photo search: Chinoiserie wallpaper at Winterthur. As you can see, the designs are very beautiful and compliment rare original Chinese furniture and they illustrate interior design choices. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 12/29/2019 10:04:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, brid...@bigpond.com writes: Dear Arachne friends, I have posted a bobbin on Flickr photostream (with Sue's help) it has a particular style of painting and I have about 6 of them all different but clearly this painting style. I want to know what (if any) a correct term would be for this style. It was suggested that I should call it "Chinoisee"style. But all my searching for that word/style came to naught. Do any of you have any suggestions please? Thanks, Brian http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Searching for lace events
Dear Alice, Realize you may be one who deletes my memos without reading. I decided not to write for a while and see if anyone missed my postings. After 3 months, with no comment, I am definitely not going to try so much to help with information. Here (again) is pretty much what I've written in the past. Perhaps someone in your local guild belongs to OIDFA? I have all their publications for the past 22+ years, and keep them because they publish so many nice articles about lace all over the world. During this time-frame (22+ years) there have been (or will be) Lace Congresses in Finland and Sweden. Participants have extended their trips by flying through Copenhagen, staying a couple nights, and taken advantage of museum exhibits in Denmark. Recommend you ask your local guild members if anyone belongs to OIDFA and if they have saved their magazines. There is much to learn from these. Yes, there are books. However, they are written to be used over many years. The way to find out about recent years is through the magazines' national guilds and what they publish for their members. If you read OIDFA, you'll find mention of them. The individuals you might like to meet write for these magazines. This is important to know. Sometimes you can search for these individuals via a computer search. There are quite a few lace authors who sell books have their own websites. Do research, by searching for them via computer. This is not the first time I have responded to inquiries such as yours. If any think they will travel in the next few years, this is something to print and put in the loose-leaf binder I recommended Arachne members set up for individual research. In recovery from major surgery since August 2019, Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center- In a message dated 10/31/2019 10:18:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, lacel...@frontier.com writes: To help plan my trip to Europe next year, and the OIDFA Congress, I've beenlooking for lace events and lace museums.àSo far I have Rauma, Finland,Vadstena, Sweden, and Tonder, Denmark on my list.1. Do you know of another place in Scandinavia with lace interest?2. How do I contact someone in Vadstena, Sweden to find out if they are havinga Lace Day near the end of June next year?àThey did in the recent past but Ican't find anything on the internet about next year.àIf they are, I'd liketo time my trip so I could attend. I tried contacting the lace guild page:à http://www.swevskaspetsar.se but cannot get a message through.àIt is apattern sales page but may be closed.àSuggestions, anyone?Lace wise -- I'm setting up new patterns on my two travel pillows so they willbe ready for next year.àI'm also starting a Russian collar and variousChristmas ornaments.àAt my Lace Day, I got an old pricking of a round doilywith a heart in the center.àNo picture or notes so it will be a challenge tofigure out how to make it. So, lots of projects to keep me busy this winter.Alice in Oregon -To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write toarachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Santina Levey (and Janet Arnold)
Dear Susan, You have asked questions about Santina Levey I'd like to have answers to, so I will share what is in my library. It is possible to find memos about Santina Levey and her close friend, Janet Arnold, in the Arachne archives: http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html If I remember correctly, the above address used to be at the bottom of every Arachne message, as is the flickr photo address today. I am giving it once again, and hope it works. For over 20 years I have suggested members make paper copies of my "important information" memos so that after my death you will have a binder on your bookshelf to consult. At home, I put copies of what I've written in the authors' books, in this case Levey and Arnold. Further, I file lace books on shelves by authors' names, making it easy to find my writing history. Lacemakers need to be organized to manage works-in-progress, and I know everyone is capable of doing the same with books and information files. Search Santina Levey on Google and you will find a memo I wrote about her and Janet Arnold. It will take you to other names. People like Jenny Tiramani followed in their footsteps. According to today's Wikipedia, Tiramani worked with Levey and Arnold on the Patterns of Fashion book series. You will also find Tiramani is associated with the 2-volume set: Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns. These books have several authors, one of whom is Susan North. There is more than one Susan North in this field - in England. Remember this, if you do research outside of the actual books. We have to keep up with prominent people in lace and costuming communities. Susan, you belong to the RSN. Other helpful resources are The Lace Guild, England and various British fashion and costuming organizations. Perhaps someone in a guild you belong to has publications you can read. Google search: Santina Levey Books by Jeri Ames. You will find a useful page I wrote for the New England Lace Group's newsletter. The NELG made this available to the world, with my permission. Print and save in your copies of Levey's books (9 are listed) for the next generation that will own them. After the passage of just a few years, some clickable addresses do not work. Always print and save while you can. It saves time in the long run ! You cannot rely exclusively on Google. They are not supposed to publish copy-written material. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource CenterIn a message dated 8/5/2019 2:30:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes: Hello All! On the horns of a dilemma here & wondered if anyone knows whether Ms. Leveyâs personal textile archives & research notes have been bequeathed to an individual or a museum? Any possibility she had a research assistant when she was compiling âLace: A Historyâ? Many thanks if you can help. Sincerely, Susan Hottle FLA USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Lady Carnarvon’s coronation gown
Original Message From: "Susan" Sent: 8/2/2019 8:35:42 AM just received the latest newsletter from RSN & they are conserving this 1911 gown. There is a short video & some photos showing the ivory lace, jeweled lace & white fur trimmed claret velvet garment. I am not sure about the lace so perhaps an expert will comment?? Susan Hottle FLA USA 8/2/2019 10:21:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, suebabbs...@gmail.com writes: The video is on YouTube at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybMoUBRjHpc The outfit was worn by the Countess of Carnarvon at the Coronation of George V in 1911. More can be read at https://royal-needlework.org.uk/lady-carnarvons-coronation-robe/ and https://www.ladycarnarvon.com/the-coronation-robes/ Sue Babbs >From Jeri: Dear Lacemakers, If you received this reply directly and not through Arachne, it is because I sent you a bcc (blind carbon copy). My comments will not reach all, because AOL and Gmail do not always interface. In fact, it is possible this will never reach the group list. You'll know, if some of you received 2 copies. Many changes have been made, which I do not wish to learn. I can relate to the RSN video because of EGA and RSN experiences and classes taken in the past 50 years. Decades ago, when RSN was still at Prince's Gate in London (it is now at Hampton Court Palace), I took a design class there. It put me in close proximity to work they do to preserve womens' needlework history. When lace requires repair, it is usually done with a needle and thread. Even if it is bobbin or another type of lace - they use embroidery techniques to recreate what is missing. After cleaning and preparation (including research), threads to match have to be found, sometimes unraveled from an area that will not be seen (under another part of a costume, or seam allowance). A large selection of threads used in past generations were saved for this purpose, but have not lasted to today. Perhaps, also, matching scraps of elements - like flowers - have been salvaged through the years. Then, restoration - making a piece look whole - can begin. Remember our definitions: Restoration means to put something new in to make an item appear to be whole. However, it must be noted that it is technically no longer original. Conservation means to stop deterioration, which can include cleaning, but leaves a damaged piece pretty much as-is. Sometimes, conservation is the only action that can be done, because intervention makes old textiles fall apart. It takes an enormous amount of time to do this work, and also to learn how to do it responsibly. I recommend a book published by the Getty Conservation Institute in Los Angeles - Changing Views of Textile Conservation. It contains a series of long essays telling about work being done in various nations to save rare ancient and not so ancient textiles. What is to be learned from this? It is very important to know how to not damage lace in the first place. Please take care of your personal 20th and 21st C. handmade lace. The world population is rapidly growing, and yet there are less people every year who know how to use bobbins and needles. If you are demonstrating and the opportunity arises, it is nice to weave into your dialogue something about lace care. For the Lacemakers of Maine, I prepared a simple "Care of Lace" list to give to viewers who seem interested. Perhaps your local lace guild should have one to publish in a newsletter? Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Travel advice - lace related
Dear Alice, It is good that you wrote to Arachne, because you may privately hear from and then meet some of the lacemakers in these countries. Search by location and follow the leads that are of interest in Arachne archives. Since you belong to OIDFA - You will find that there have been OIDFA congresses within the last 22 years in several of these countries. Bulletins feature articles about each host nation for at least a year before, with more articles about them the year after. You'll find your old bulletins contain info that will lead you to lace treasures. Always confirm in advance that places are still open, dates/hours/days of week open, and what will be on exhibit. In some cases, you may be able to make an appointment with someone (whose name you found in an old bulletin) and go behind the scenes to see lace in storage, or attend a lace meeting. Plan alternatives for Mondays, just in case museums where you will be are all closed.  Have a wonderful time researching, and then enjoying your travels. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource CenterIn a message dated 7/10/2019 12:58:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, lacel...@frontier.com writes: I am planning to attend OIDFA next year in Estonia. I would like to travel for a month ahead of the congress and am searching out lace sites in the countries on my list. I plan to visit Finland, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Switzerland and Austria. However, I can't find any lace-related references in the travel guides I've been reading on these countries, not even in the museum listings. I know of Rama lace in Finland but not where the museum is that has it on display .Tonder, Denmark, is known for lace. The bus tour after the congress I'm sure will cover laces in Estonia so I'm not concerned about that country. Does anyone have suggestions of where to find lace in the countries listed? Alice in Oregon -- where it is gray and cloudy this week, and sometimes wet - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Archie’s christening gown
Dear Susan, Off and on, we have written about various royal christening gowns from England, Denmark, etc. You can search Royal Christening Gowns at: http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html I've not seen the most recent correspondence to which you refer. Historically, the book - Royal Honiton Lace - by Elsie Luxton and Yusai Fukuyama has interesting history. Published in 1988 by Batsford, ISBN 0-7134-5764-3. And, of course, searching the subject will turn up lots of illustrated sites for all to enjoy. Jeri Ames in Maine USA In a message dated 7/8/2019 10:55:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes: Hello All! Luckily a friend emailed me about the online photos of the gown. Hope everyone is enjoying a rerun of (arguably) the most famous royal christening gown replica! Perhaps an expert will comment on its creation. Is the Honiton lace appliqued on silk & tulle? Sincerely, Susan Hottle FL, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] History of lassen
Not listing all the Gmail members and others who are blocked from seeing mail from AOL, but have included Nancy and Bev because of their considerable contributions on this subject. If any of you think other Gmail users need it, you may share. Malvary, This technique must have seemed logical, even to a child. Everyone is assuming that someone who knew a lot about lace and made it by hand dealt with joining lace, but I agree it would have been the seamstresses who perfected ways to use lace. In about 1950, age 12, I began making clothes for myself. Earlier, during WWII and beyond, my basic grainbag-fabric dresses were made by someone who could sew. (During the war, many products ceased to be available for purchase, and everyone made-do-without.) Slowly, manufacturers got back to producing yardgoods and the fashion industry was re-established. Many children were taught to sew, first by Scout leaders, and later in public schools - grades 7th-9th, probably because wages were low and many could not afford ready-made clothing. In those years I found machine-made lace by the yard in Woolworth's, and sometimes a length to use on something special was bought. Almost everything I made then, sometimes completely by hand sewing, is in storage trunks. I improvised or was taught to use what looks like the lassen method when the end of a piece of lace could not be hidden by a seam. Lace was a luxury, and it is unlikely anyone else would have taught me that technique. No lace was wasted - uses were found for every last inch. The one needlework book I owned then, published in 1949, does not include instructions for lassen, or whatever it might be called in English. It barely mentions how to sew lace on a collar edge. Old home economics textbooks, and books published by thread companies that give instructions for sewing clothing and fancy accessories may have instructions. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 6/25/2019 9:17:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, malva...@sympatico.ca writes: Although Lassen by that name is probably Belgian, surely it doesn't mean they are the only people who ever thought of the overlap and sew idea. They might have copied and adapted from the way that finished and bought lace had been cut and joined to use in garments by skilled dressmakers for decades or even centuries. Malvary in Ottawa, who has never done a Lassen join - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Blonde in the 18th century
Dear Devon, I realize that all those with Gmail will not receive this, but this is the best way for me to reply. Do you still have a lace contact at The Hispanic Society of America, in New York City? Perhaps they will be the best resource for you. And, have you taken a look at the vintage lace books by Florence Lewis May? As you will remember, she was the foremost Spanish/Portuguese lace expert 80 years ago, and maybe there is something of value in her research, which was published by The Hispanic Society of America. Jeri In a message dated 5/7/2019 12:17:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: We have a piece of black blonde which appears to be made into a skirt ofthe 1890s. It may have started life as a mantilla or mantillas. The pieceis cataloged as 18th century. But, I feel that black point ground lace wasmore a lace of the 19th century. It has large motifs which was a popularthing in the 1820s and 1830s. Also black point ground lace was very popularin the mid 19th century. The previous catalogers were very good, so I amwondering why they may think that the piece is from the 18th century. Itseems to me that, while blonde originated in the 18th century, at that timethe style was for small motifs. Here is the linkhttps://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/215375?=All ortBy=Relevance=08.219=0=20=1 The number is 08.219 in the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection.I have posted additional photos on the laceioli.ning site, the lace historygroup.Does anyone have any insight into why this is considered to be 18th century?Devon -To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write toarachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Valenciennes by Whiting, was: Point Ground Lace
Dear Jo, In 2018, I read an unpublished manuscript held by an American museum which has details for reproducing all the laces in Whiting's sampler. At about the same time, I heard (a rumor?) that a lace guild in England - not American - had also deciphered all the Whiting laces and that was why the manuscript I read has not been published. Perhaps those who know more about this can give us American and English status reports? I have not heard that either manuscript has been made available. That could be misleading. I am not informed about all lace developments. When lace research - requiring many hours of volunteer work - has already been done but not published, it is important to not have additional people doing research that has already been done. We just do not have enough qualified lace experts to over-kill a topic of this complexity! This is an example of a problem we can communicate about on Arachne and help come to a positive solution. Because of terrible AOL/Gmail interface problems, due to Arachne's limited programming, I am bcc-copying this to my usual private list of Gmail users, including those who volunteer at museums. If there are others who are Gmail users who would like to be on my list to receive bcc's, please write to me. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center-In a message dated 3/10/2019 3:25:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, yhgr@xs4all.nl writes: Hello all, There are still many grounds in the Whiting index that don't yet havediagrams. The subtle variations of Valenciennes are causing me headaches. Ihope some experts can help me out. Details and images are available onhttps://github.com/d-bl/GroundForge/issues/129 You can answer here to invite other opinions, or answer me privately. Thanks in advance for your cooperation. Jo - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] A Rembrandt discovered due to the lace, Christian IV's laces of same period
Dear Historians - especially those new to the study of Lace, The New York Times article from Devon leads me to recommend a book about the period when Rembrandt was painting. Devon mentions Sweden's king and the wearing of a red ribbon to secure the end of a thin braid. This is very clearly depicted in the book Knipling.Lace.Spitz about Christian IV and Bobbin Lace, which came with a separate folio of lace patterns from the 1600's, with adaptations for use today. Published in 2001, in Denmark, ISBN 87-988400-0-2. Larger lace guilds may have book and folio in their libraries. Everyone interested in lace history of northern Europe, when national boundaries were very different from today, should become familiar with this. It contains many originals and adaptations of lace patterns in color, but that is not all. It came with a separate large folio of lace patterns. You can recreate royal period laces for yourself or period costumes! The cover of the book shows Danish King Christian IV (1577-1648) with a braid and red ribbon. His lace collar over royal robes and jewels is spectacular.   I would love to own a book of this quality published by Dutch lace experts - focused on Rembrandt's paintings of lace. Please! Please! Does such a book exist? Christian IV's sister, Anne of Denmark, was married to James the I (of England) and VI (of Scotland) son of Mary, Queen of Scots. Queen Anne is featured in the 2013 book - In Fine Style, The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion - by Anna Reynolds, 978-1-905686-44-5. This book includes chapters devoted to royal male fashions and laces. Another informative book for costume scholars is the 2008 book - Merchants, Princes and Painters, Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300-1550 - by Lisa Monnas, 978-0-300-7-0. Lace and silk were exclusive to royalty and the most wealthy and powerful families in Europe. Enjoy your research. There is so little appearing on Arachne these days, that I have left the letter Devon wrote attached to this for those who might like to make a copy to put with the article in your files or enclose in referenced books. As usual, I've sent bcc's to my private list of gmail users. If someone will comment on this memo, then the vast majority using gmail will know to look at http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html to find it. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 3/4/2019 3:56:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: This article appeared in the New York Times magazine section this week. Iposted it on the International Organization of Lace's facebook page whereit has been very popular. Jeri Ames has encouraged me to post it on arachneas well. Here is the link:https://www.nytimes.com/2019/02/27/magazine/rembrandt-jan-six.htmlThere are several interesting things in this article. One is that thedealer Jan Six XI was immediately attracted to the lace on the paintingwhich is a collar style that he claims was only in fashion between1633-1635. I am extremely impressed with his lace knowledge. Gunnel and Iactually did a bit of a survey on Friday, over Skype, trying to prove ordisprove this theory using portraits and we think he is pretty muchcorrect. There was an outlier in the form of a Swedish monarch, but itmight be possible that the painting is not correctly dated. Also a popularstyle at the time was a thin lock of hair with a red ribbon which appearson two of the paintings.Another aspect of the article deals with a purported Rembrandt habit ofpainting the white of the lace first, then putting on the black. At onepoint I was looking at the lace in Rembrandts very acutely for an articleI never wrote, and I think I concluded that he changed this pattern whenthe style of lace changed to be less heavy. He painted for quite a longtime and lace styles changed.. Also, my theory is that, given it was astudio situation with Rembrandt probably painting the eyes and maybe thehands of the portraits but leaving costume details to others, I am not surethat we can go overboard with identifying all the portraits that have lacepainted this way as being Rembrandts.Apart from the interesting lace details, is a story full of pathos abouthow members of the Six family have to become guardians of the family artcollection, leading to inter-generational conflict about framing, forinstance. They don't mention it, but I think that the Six family are alsodonors to the Rijksmuseum's lace collection. These 17th century laces ofthe 1630s are very hard to come by. I don't know that we have any in ourcollection. However, Frieda Sorber tells me that she knows of some inprivate hands and some will be loaned for Frieda's exhibit that is to takeplace in Antwerp in 2020. I have been speaking nonchalantly in front of myhusband about going to this exhibit as though it was a foregone conclusionand he hasn't vociferously resisted the premise, so hopefully I may seethem.Devon
[lace] Ojo de Dios - Eye of God is not a Lace
In a message dated 2/21/2019 1:33:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, linhud...@gmail.com writes: As a kid, i knew this as a God's eye.  Lin and the Mali A 1972 book, Ojo de Dios - Eye of God, was written by Charlet Albaum. Available on Amazon as a used book. Please search to see a photo. Considered old Indian folk art, colorful yarns are woven diagonally on 2 crossed wooden sticks held in the diamond shape so the finished Eye reminds us of religious crosses. These represent an authentic, ancient, Indian prayer for the protection and benevolence of God.  Small ones are attached to North American Indian children's clothing. Not a lace or embroidery. In 1977, I adapted this idea and developed an embroidery class which used even-weave interlock canvas 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" finished size as the foundation. In canvas stitching books the center is diagrammed as a giant Waffle stitch. This is surrounded by Rice stitch over 4 threads, which holds the raw edge under and gives some stability. Most of the yarn sits on top. Use left-over yarns. Experiment with how many to thread into a tapestry needle - my preference is 2. Yarn should lay side-by-side with no twisting. You will end up with a holiday ornament or an applique for clothing. If this appeals to you, you will need a book of diagrammed stitches from your local public library. Lace Finishing Option: The outer edge (folded under, leaving one canvas thread bare) needs to be overcast with yarn, with perhaps 3 stitches to cover corners. To qualify as lacy, you could tat over this edge. If so, tatting thread should be used in some of the Waffle and/or Rice stitches. Cover back with felt. Even-weave interlock canvas is not truly square. You must count in both directions the number of canvas threads - leaving the one exposed thread at the folded under edges. Count in increments of 4 threads for 2 outer Rice borders (8), and the Waffle is worked over 32 threads in each direction (2 plus 8 plus 32). There will be 10 Rice stitches per side when worked up. You could make these smaller, remembering the increments of 4 canvas threads. Suggest working out on graph paper.   Unusual gift when Indian history is included. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Kopek/Whirlpool filling finished result photo & related pricking
After a few hours sleep, I went back to Russian Lace Making - because I requested a photo of this Kopek stitch in a finished lace. You'll see it first in the Patterns chapter on page 28 - a completed window decoration lace Bridget Cook named Nicholas, with a full pricking of that item 2 pages later. Simple. We were originally focused on the line drawing in the Technical Assistance chapter, page 21. Sorry. My brain is dying. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Russian Lace Experts Please Help Us: Kopek/Whirlpool filling stitch
You are confused, Clare? Me too! Do we have any Russian Lace experts? If you are shy about writing to the list, please write to me. We would like to know what books/authors have included Kopek/Whirlpool fillings as content. We'd like to see actual photos and other instructions for it. So far, all we have is one line drawing illustrating how the Whirlpool Filling stitch is made - in Bridget Cook's book. On page 19 of Cook's Russian Lace Making (English, German, Dutch, French) there are 2 paragraphs about the general topic of Russian Lace Fillings. The Whirlpool Filling explanation and illustration on page 21 is brief. No placement of pins is illustrated or even mentioned until page 22, which covers some variations. I am not commenting on the variations, because just getting basics is enough for most lacemakers reading this. The one illustration shows 8 spokes reaching outward from the center. It does not illustrate how spokes are anchored at the perimeter. Then, it looks like a first stitch comes up in the center, goes over a spoke, then is taken back under that spoke and brought up and forward clock-wise to over the next spoke and back under, repeated for as many rounds as desired. This Whirlpool Filling calls for manipulating 2 bobbins in a most awkward manner that in no way resembles cross or twist stitches. How can this filling can be worked half way out to the perimeter of spokes using bulky bobbins? I think the spokes would be forced out of intended alignment. The one illustration shows two bobbins, but the way they are to be used will present a dexterity challenge to many lacemakers. I maintain that using one threaded needle will be easier. Tip: You can stitch with the eye end of a threaded needle to avoid splitting threads with the point. Because this is such an unusual filling, practice before using. Clare's finished example is at:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ To answer Clare's question: Yes, the Woven Spider's Web embroidery stitch is made with a threaded needle. It would be easier to hold one needle to make the Whirlpool Filling effect than trying to manipulate 2 bobbins over and under thread spokes. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 2/21/2019 6:19:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, clareandver...@gmail.com writes: I'm a bit confused by your email Jeri, are you saying that the Woven Spider's Web is made with a needle? Kopek filling is made with a pair of bobbins. I don't know where the name Kopek filling comes from but I have only ever seen the filling used in Russian Tape lace and it makes sense for the Kopek name to have come from Russia. I have been told that Bridget Cook coined the phrase Whirlpool filling when she wrote Russian Tape Lace but I don't know if this is correct and if it is I don't know why she did that. Clare-- On Thu, 21 Feb 2019 at 17:46, Jeri Ames wrote: Please tell us where the Kopek/Whirlpool name originated - (Author and Book Title, or Teacher). A sampler of my making dated 1974 contains the stitch called Woven Spider's Web.  This happens to be a stitch made with a threaded needle, with the eye end of the needle used to weave. It can be worked in-the-air (lace) or anchored on a pre-existing foundation fabric (embroidery). - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] CORRECTION: Kopek/Whirlpool filling is a Woven Spider's Web
Please tell us where the Kopek/Whirlpool name originated - (Author and Book Title, or Teacher). A sampler of my making dated 1974 contains the stitch called Woven Spider's Web. It is a much older stitch than that. Those of you who own Erica Wilson's 1973 big orange - Embroidery Book - will find the instructions on page 98. I'm quoting a book by a graduate of the Royal School of Needlework in London, because the correspondence we have read - about Kopek/Whirlpool - seems to originate in England. Inventing new names for well-established stitches confuses people concerned with passing on history that is as accurate as possible. Inventing will probably confuse researchers of the future, and I believe young stitchers should learn from those of us who have wielded needles for decades. Would very much appreciate if others would pick up the slack and participate, instead of remaining silent. Please - share if you've been exposed to lace and embroidery experts. This happens to be a stitch made with a threaded needle, with the eye end of the needle used to weave. It can be worked in-the-air (lace) or anchored on a pre-existing foundation fabric (embroidery). Arachne translates to spider (and the Greek Goddess of that name). All reading Lace@arachne should know about woven and whipped spider's webs because of this ancient history connected to our name. Jeri Ames in MaineLace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 2/21/2019 9:31:01 AM Eastern Standard Time: Hi Fellow Arachnids, Thank you for posting the photos, Clare. I can now see that both Kopek (a small Russian coin) and whirlpool fillings are what we would call a Russian spider. Joepie, in overcast but relatively warm Sussex, UK From: Clare Lewis Sent: 20 February 2019 23:58 To: J R Cc: Arachne Reply<mailto:lace@arachne.com> Subject: Re: [lace] Kopek/Whirlpool filling I discovered that a kopek is a heck of a lot of different things in different languages when I tried to Google for an answer to my question! Anyway, thanks in no small part to a very patient Sue Babbs I have now uploaded three photos to the Arachne Flickr page showing the top and underside of a kopek filling. Clare L Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Subject Line Editing;/Lacemaking Time Management/Bad Lacemaking Habits
I have decided not to continue bcc-ing people who told me they didn't get my e-mails because Gmail and AOL are incompatible. Some of my letters never get to Arachne, and I'm not going to worry about that anymore, either. Maybe someone will re-post if what I write might help others. Please note that Susan Hottle's memo says she could not find the discussion on Cotona green thread. As I have written to Arachne many times - consider that much of today's correspondence is still being filed under Bedfordshire lace. If you want to find things in the archives, remember to change the Subject line when you veer off-topic. Today, even the hours you spend on lace are usually going to the wrong permanent file. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource CenterIn a message dated 1/27/2019 3:23:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes: When I checked the Archives, I didnât find the discussion of Cotona green you mentioned but I did find other interesting tidbits so I annotated Brendaâs book. This is the one thing I should have added to Devonâs query/discussion about how to learn to make lace. There is a certain value to taking lessons or being in the presence of others who are more experienced. Itâs easy to unintentionally develop bad habits when working independently. Susan Hottle FL, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] strips of drochel net, applique
Dear Devon, Some history memories: I seem to recall that Napoleon ordered very large laces for his first wife, Empress Josephine (m. 1796-1809). These took so long to execute by hand that they were delivered when he was married to his second wife, Marie Louise - Duchess of Parma (m. 1810-1821). I think this is mentioned in several lace history books, and explains why grounds were worked in narrow strips and lace motifs were individually made and appliqued on various grounds for large orders. We have also read that lacemakers were not paid for laces until they were delivered, which explains why they developed an early form of an assembly line, with a number of lacemakers all working on different stages of the same commission. There been discussions on Arachne through the years that in part laces lacemakers only received a pricking (design) for the elements they worked as individuals, and not the entire large piece of lace - to ensure that a design would not be copied. I remember this was done with the Honiton wedding laces made for Queen Victoria, so it would make sense that this was common practice in lace-making countries. Only the very rich and powerful could afford laces that were made on a grand scale. They would not tolerate lace copies being made for the use of others. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center---In a message dated 1/19/2019 1:03:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: Yesterday, I realized after going through my photography, that themaking of the drochel ground in strips in Point d'Angleterre, orBrussels vrai drochel edgings is the norm, although I had nevernoticed it before. Subsequently, I heard from a well regarded laceauthority who has a great deal of knowledge.She asked me whether I hadever seen a piece that was strips joined together with the motifsapplied. She also suggested that if the process was applique, perhapsthe underlying mesh was actually machine made. This got me to thinking about why I had formed the opinion that thishad been done, and I looked around in my books. I found the source ofthis information in Marian Powys, Lace and Lacemaking, p. 136. "Thetechnique of this lace is the same as Point d'Angleterre, but in theEmpire period, when there was often little decoration at the border ofa large space of net, the ground was made in strips aboutthree-quarters of an inch wide, invisibly joined. The lace was appliedto this ground, or more exactly the ground to the lace, as was doneafter with the machine-made nets in the Brussels appllique laces." Sheis writing about the Diana and Endymion coverlet which we have in theMet (44.91.1) It is quite likely that this may be a commission forroyalty or the aristocracy. I am posting a photo of this piece showingthe applique. It is the one with a green background. I looked throughmy other photography to see if there were any other examples of pieceswhere I believe that the motifs were sewn on to handmade drochel net.I found several, but all of a royal nature except for one, which wasjust a border. Here are some photos. I have posted the photos on thelace identification group of laceioli.ning.http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history?xg_source =activityOn pink, Napoleonic bee, 09.68.234. Fleur de lis: Charles X monogram,1824 (20.101.1a). Napoleonic bee, on a veil, 54.44.1, and the bordershown from the back (14.14.2) So perhaps there is a certain date at which this was done, or maybeonly for royalty? Insights are welcome! Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Making leaves on a bolster pillow - Thank you!
How very nice to have encouragement from Dagmar Beckel Machyckova, who is featured in Devon's lace exhibit and exhibit catalog. She is the Czech lace expert who wrote about Milca Eremiasova in the catalog. It is heartwarming when someone with such expertise interrupts a busy life to answer subscribers to lace@arachne. Many thanks to all who have helped us learn more about lace in 2018. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 12/30/2018 10:18:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, dagmar.bec...@gmail.com writes: Good morning Ruth, I did a tutorial in video right here: https://www.facebook.com/712228095474063/posts/1770101446353384/ Dagmar Machyckova > On Dec 29, 2018, at 12:11 PM, Bev Walker wrote: I found this searching kloeppelspitzen formschlag at google-dot-de https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm_DESWGT_w Be patient through the intro. At 1:24 and onward you will see how the tensioning goes. I hope this helps. > On Sat, Dec 29, 2018 at 9:14 AM Earl & Ruth Johnson  earlruthjohn...@gmail.com> wrote: Do you work on a bolster pillow? Are you skilled in making leaves? I started an Idrija pattern with leaves, and while I understand on paper how to do it, I cannot find information on the "technique". I searched online for YouTube videos. Bev in Shirley BC, Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Armenian Lacemakers?
Dear Elena, There are 56 messages in the Arachne archives about Armenian lace, including long book reviews that I wrote. The best known Armenian-American author was Alice Odian Kasparian, who wrote - Armenian Needlelace and Embroidery (1983) - still available as a used book, and a good place to start learning more because it covers history and instructions. Arachne archive address: https://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Armenian+Lace=lace%40arachne.com Suggest checking what has been written about Armenian lace in PieceWork, which will lead to other current experts and makers of this lace. I recall a long article about the late Armistice Turtura within the last year or so, but cannot remember where it was. Armistice was a member of IOLI and of Chesapeake Region Lace Group. Search her name to learn more - she was a wonderful community volunteer, lived a long life, and she was named for Armistice Day ( celebrated as the end of WWI). Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 12/11/2018 3:45:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, enkanagyl...@gmail.com writes; Today we had a visitor from California named Deborah Valoma who isinterested in meeting other Armenian lacemakers in the U.S. and beyond. Sheis the former head of the Textiles Department at the California College ofArts in Northern California, and recently inherited a collection of over200 pieces of lace made by her Armenian grandmother. Does anyone know ofany Armenian lacemakers that I can connect her with? She would be sothrilled to get in touch.Elena - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Carrickmacross Conservation
The method of making Carrickmacross lace renders it nearly impossible to wet clean. If you have a piece that needs cleaning and it is of very great value as a family heirloom, it would be best to take it to a professional conservator. The problem with the edging (picot) loops is the main reason I wrote to Arachne long ago that if you choose to wear a collar, the dress neckline should be high enough that the collar rests completely on the dress fabric. I have one about 20 years old and baste it to a dress custom-made to fit that collar when it is to be worn. I made 2 special thread loops at the collar's center fronts for a cameo, so the collar would not be damaged by a pin - a good idea for all lace collars you plan to secure with a brooch. You MUST baste to dress to hold collar, and not depend on a pin to hold it - under stress. If you design a lace collar, it is wise to design a method for holding the collar in place when it must be secured. Conservation starts before a lace is made, though few people think of it that way. 19th C. collars in my collection have the typical embedded skin oil or perspiration stains, and they are impossible to remove. Stitches used for anchoring applique to net were very tiny. If the applique fabric was not pre-shrunk (which we have no way of knowing), the shrinkage pull will result in the disaster Nancy described (below). 21st C. lacemakers are mixing fibers and making laces with them. It is wise to consider if these pieces can be cleaned in the future. Manufacturers of threads are not considering how they will be used. There are no industry standards. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 12/8/2018 12:45:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, nancy.a.n...@gmail.com writes: Okay, I just created album "Carrickmacross guipure" with an example. It's been badly washed so the loops at the edge are collapsed, but those loops identify it as Carrickmacross. On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 12:13 PM N.A. Neff wrote: > Actually there's a guipure form of Carrickmacross that is lace without > question. It's much less common than the applique form. I'll try to find a > good picture to put up on Arachne2003... - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Carrickmacross, Silk Mill, Buttons, Painting Yarn
Many users of gmail are not receiving my Arachne memos. Some receive because I am sending via bcc to them (an extra step for me). Please, someone on Arachne, respond to this memo so those in the dark will know to look for this in the archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html . Thanks, Jeri---From a special section - 'Craftsmanship', in The New York Times, December 5, 2018. Articles about Ireland, Italy, France, The Netherlands. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/05/fashion/lace-carrickmacross-ireland.html You may enjoy the loving way Carrickmacross is presented in the article at the address above. We know that technically, this is embroidery and applique applied by hand to a pre-existing foundation fabric (usually net). However, it and Limerick lace (hand embroidery) were marketed as lace in the 19th C. and they have been called lace ever since. There is something for almost everyone in this special "Craftsmanship" section, as you will notice at the bottom, where you can select from 3 additional options: 1 - In Florence, an 'Undiscovered Jewel' of a Fabric Mill. (Silk, Pucci, female weavers, Leonardo da Vinci's inventions. Did you know hand looms used today were once owned by noble families in Florence and date from the 1700's? Silk has been made in Florence since the 1300's. Going to Italy in 2019? Da Vinci died in 1519, and Florence is beginning to celebrate the 500th anniversary of his death. This silk mill is attracting the attention of Jeff Bezos, Tim Cook, and Bill Gates.) Art book Jeri recommends: Merchants, Princes and Painters - Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300-1550, by Lisa Monnas, Yale Press. 2. Who's Got the Button? Chanel. French. (Google to view Chanel at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where you will see what appears to be a lace runner appliqued to the front of a dress!) Jeri's fashion tip: Upgrade a garment and give it new life by changing buttons. Inexpensive clothing can be treated to fabulous buttons from a specialty shop. When you travel to a large city, search for button shops. Nice buttons are better to own than tawdry souvenirs, and can be saved when garments are discarded. Buttons are collectible, have potentially long lives, can be used when creating textile art, and some can serve as spangles for lace bobbins.) 3. A Dutch Laboratory that Paints in Yarn. (This is very interesting, and about TextielLab, where research and development is the focus - for making large tapestries and textile installations. You will think in new ways about the potential when paint is applied to lace. They tried to make red pop by adding a little fluorescent, but then the textile became stiff. So, here you learn how professionals tackle problems as they "invent". There is a museum to visit at this location.) Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Christmas and lace
Yes! Lace decorations are recommended to all who are reading this. The mail has brought annual handmade thank-you lace angels from Lin Hudren, so it must be Christmas. In nearly 60 years, there have been 2 artificial trees in my homes, sparing that many live trees. Once my tree is decorated with angels, not much green shows. It stands until Valentine's Day, reminding of friends here and above who made them. Also fun is a collection of embroidered boxes that sits under on a plain 5' round green felt skirt. This year, a box lid insert was stitched on linen of a gold putti riding in a small deep red chariot. Though assembly was tricky, now it is ready for years to come. Merry! Happy! To all. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 12/2/2018 2:56:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, su...@enery8.plus.com writes: Well my husband has just announced that Christmas has begun, I ... have spent the last hour or so pinning all the Christmas lace pieces... he told me I need to make some more as... there was lots more room, but after I finished there is just a small amount of space left. . Sue T, Dorset UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Newspaper Lace Publicity from Ontario Canada
A newspaper article that gives some publicity to lace making by Avon Lacemakers in Ontario Canada, some of whom are members of Arachne. Devon - it mentions one of the lace artists represented in Lace, not Lace - Veronika Irvine. https://www.therecord.com/news-story/9044470-keeping-the-art-alive-handmade-l ace-is-a-rare-delicate-craft/ Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] UNESCO Honors Slovenian Bobbin Lace Makers
Please share with your lace making friends, groups, guilds, newsletter editors. This is an example of how to continue to promote lace making or any other hand-made textile in our increasingly impersonal world. Photography on this UNESCO site is especially good at telling the Intangible Cultural Heritage story of Slovenian lace. https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/bobbin-lacemaking-in-slovenia-01378 Please notice the reasons people in Slovenia make lace all their lives. Photos and text includes girls and boys and women and men. Two grey haired men (grandfather and son) are seen making lace and remembering childhood lacemaking training. One mentions becoming a cobbler in Ziri when he stopped making lace. Do you remember the large lace archway made by Manca Ahlin for a lace installation in Ziri that had shoes hanging from the arch? In addition to the film, if you click the right arrow at bottom row of photos you will see Manca Ahlin's lace wall, made of heavy cord. Her 5-foot-by-5-foot doily-like lighted wall hanging called Corona is in the New Jersey lace exhibit - Lace, not Lace - made of cord, fiber optic cable, and EL wire (lights). She is an architect in New York City, and is a member of the Brooklyn Lace Guild, NY. Read about her in the Lace, Not Lace exhibit catalog and search her name on internet for more lace. If you went to the OIDFA Congress in Slovenia, you would have met Ahlin and other Slovenian women who continue to combine professional careers with lacemaking.  They spoke several languages, including English. What more can we do to promote the reasons to make lace that will benefit healthy living and lift spirits? Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Book translation - Gekloppelte Reticella by Brigitte Bellon
Dear Lorri, The late Barbara Fay published this book in 1998 in German and French. I have written privately to her daughter, Dagmar, who now runs the company. She, of all people, will know if anyone was authorized to make an English translation. Wonderful news! Arachne member Lorelei Halley has posted a free tutorial for Reticella. If you learn from Lorelei, you will then be able to follow the German/French book. https://www.lynxlace.com/reticellaneedlelace.html Look in the Arachne archives under the subject Reticella, for more information. https://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html Happy Thanksgiving to Americans reading this today, November 22nd. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 11/21/2018 5:18:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, lorri...@msn.com writes: I have a copy of Brigitte Bellon's Gekloppelte Reticella/Dentelle Reticella Aux Fuseaux and wonder if there is an English translation of this book? Lorri Ferguson, Renton, Washington, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Conservation of Cotton/Linen: Iron and Manganese Photo from Space
Conservation - Avoid latent rust spots (from iron) and yellowing (from manganese) when washing cotton/linen laces. You may recall that I specify distilled or de-ionized water for wet cleaning lace and embroidery because of pollutants in water, whether from rain (falls through polluted air), well water, or a public water supply. On Sunday, when I saw the photo from space of raw iron and manganese in Libya, taken by the astronaut Scott Kelly for his book Infinite Wonder, it seemed something a few of our scientists who make or collect lace might like to view. You can see it about half way through the CBS Sunday morning interview of Kelly, 3 pictures after mention of a dry lake bed in Ethiopia. Search Subject I Used: Astronaut Scott Kelly on Capturing an Earth without Borders - CBS News It is important none of you ever inadvertently damage your heirloom laces and embroideries. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Poppy Issue of Lace from The Lace Guild, England
Several members have written brief notes about the Autumn issue #172 of LACE, from The Lace Guild, England. This is another - from afar. Many times, I have recommended membership because the bulletins are so inspiring. This is a very historic month, marking the 100th anniversary of the end of WWI on November 11th. In Belgium, we saw many tributes to this anniversary and many red lace poppy displays.  Poppies (usually paper) are worn by people around the world on Armistice Day. This poppy tradition is acknowledged on the front and back covers of LACE. This issue has many articles about British lace groups and individuals making poppies. Enough to make me regret giving up lacemaking in favor of writing about lace. The Lace Guild and Lace Museum is asking for volunteers. This is a wonderful way to meet interesting people and to learn about lace so that you can properly inform the public about it. Please consider helping, if you are located near The Hollies. Reports of lace Summer Schools are enough to make one very envious. Everyone looking so happy in color photos. Angela Thompson, a long-time friend who has visited me in Maine twice and influenced my collecting habits, has contributed an 8-page article about Filet Embroidered Net. A subject rarely written about, it was one of the earliest laces developed and inspired the making of Filet Crochet and eventually Machine Filet and Chemical Lace Filet. This is a lace that was made by European queens and their attendants centuries ago. Angela also explains how she keeps an inventory of her lace collection. There are several articles about Gil Dye. She surely deserves a lace halo for all the time she spends with lacemakers of all skill levels, historians, collectors, etc. It is lovely to see how many special opportunities there are to get away to learn from Gil. Wonderful color photos of reproductions of the earliest bobbin laces accompany these articles. Finally, an article by Dianne Derbyshire (member of Arachne) about the lace opportunities at Gawthorpe Hall in Padiham. Gawthorpe closes Sunday, Nov. 4th, for the season, but I always take the opportunity to encourage everyone to read about the activities there. They may influence program chairwomen who are trying to come up with agendas. Keep going back and back to previous years. There is a lot of interesting educational information, some about lace, from this facility. This English textile collection is second only to the Victoria & Albert: http://www.gawthorpetextiles.org.uk/ Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Fwd: Auction Policy in France Regarding Art Treasures
Once again, AOL manipulated what I typed as our address by inserting www. and it rejected. Re-sending. Jeri From: jeria...@aol.com To: www.l...@arachne.com Sent: 11/2/2018 1:11:22 PM Eastern Standard Time Subject: Auction Policy in France Regarding Art Treasures Dear Arachne subscribers, Lace expert, Laurie Waters of New Mexico, shared an auction phenomenon with subscribers to her Lace News Blog recently that can be an interesting topic of conversation at your dinner table tonight. There was a huge lace auction at Drouot, in Paris, on October 24th, which included many laces owned by the late Margaret Simeon of England. Simeon was author of The History of Lace, 1979, and collected lace for at least 40 years. I printed the auction offerings from the on-line catalog, to go with Simeon's book (for future researchers), so have established at least one special record on paper. (I'd prefer a version with the amounts actually realized!) Laurie reported there were just two telephone bidders for an Alençon veil, but when the hammer went down a representative from the Alençon Museum of Fine Arts and Lace in the room stood up and announced that they were buying the piece. This was due to the French law of preemption - once a price has been decided at auction a state museum has the right to step in and buy at that price. This, of course, is fair warning that you should not go to great expense traveling to any auction in person to acquire an extraordinary lace item. At the least, not to France! Laces in retail shops in Bruges this past August were extremely expensive, because the supply available is scarce. Belgian laces were exported, so the few remaining are priced accordingly. Americans can buy quality European laces stateside - from our known and respected lace dealers. It is possible to shop in IOLI convention sales rooms. Dealers may be able to tell you from whom they acquired an antique lace (provenance). Items that should be in museum collections rarely surface, so think logically before spending. It is always best to examine both sides of an old lace in person because your fingers will tell you a lot, as well as your eyes. When people come here to see laces, I ask them to wash their hands instead of putting on gloves, so they can experience how various laces feel. Example: There is a difference between point de Venise and Irish crochet, though to the untrained eye they may seem alike. I want them to experience how a 200-yr.-old hanky edged in Valenciennes lace responds to being dropped in a flirtatious gesture. There is always more to learn. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Belgian war lace web site
If the address Lorelei sent does not work, it is because the address wrapped to a second line, dropping "tivity". Please remember to add it. Jeri In a message dated 10/27/2018 5:46:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, lhal...@bytemeusa.com writes: Try this link http://laceioli.ning.com/forum/topics/beligan-war-lace-from-wwi?xg_source=act ivity Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Belgium in WWI: Flour Sacks and Lace
Dear Friends, Following another lead this morning, I found an essay by Karen Roy. Her Robes de Coeur blog had been entered on IOLI's ning site. You might like to copy and put with your (or your guild's) copy of Bobbins of Belgium (post-WWI book by Charlotte Kellogg) or other documents about the war and lacemakers. This was a subject people who went on the World Lace Tour of Belgium in August 2018 learned a lot about, so if you know those lace experts, please share with them. It could also be mentioned in local guild newsletters. https://laceioli.ning.com/forum/topics/belgian-war-lace-from-wwi If you know of anyone doing research on this subject, I have a large file about WWI Belgian lace in my library. Kim Davis, please share this info with Evelyn McMillan. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Santina Levey and Janet Arnold, Lace and Costume Experts, 4th try
I tried to send this 3 times on the 15th. Kept defaulting to Arachne address with www. in front of it. Then, kept rejecting per my AOL server. I have very carefully typed the address without www. in front of it today, and I tabbed right down to this paragraph to type an explanation. I think all the bccs got through the first time. Please let me know if Arachne subscribers received now. Thanks, Jeri From: jeria...@aol.com To: www.l...@arachne.com Sent: 10/15/2018 3:34:57 PM Eastern Standard Time Subject: Santina Levey and Janet Arnold, Lace and Costume Experts The next paragraph came from an American. Will be of interest to some Arachne members since it is about friends Janet Arnold and Santina Levey, both deceased, They had quite an impact on costumers and lacemakers, still of interest to many. Some of you may have family members studying costume, design, etc. And maybe some will want to print the article to put in copies of books by Arnold and Levey. The photo of them together is a treasure. This was a Facebook post from the School of Historical Dress. Select Collections, then Janet Arnold, at:http://theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/ "We held a Celebration of the Life and Work of the great historian Santina Levey this afternoon at the Society of Antiquaries in London. Talks were given about aspects of her work, followed by tea and cake, including this EDIBLE bobbin lace pillow in honour of her great love, the history of lace. @redthreaded "fallforcostume DAY 11: Lace (sorry it's a bit late but we were busy making cakes yesterday!). https://bit.ly/2PFmJAg  " Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Reports from this summers events - Jane Atkinson exhibit (long)
Dear Lacemakers, I learned from my friend in Hungary last month that she has never opened all the addresses and photos sent to her, because no one showed her how. That's about 20 years of typing and research that never resulted in what was intended - and, she never told me. Often, what was sent was web addresses of Hungarian lacemakers! Of course, the situation is complicated for me to rectify because the main language on her computer is Hungarian, but she does receive direct mail in English, soI have asked her grand nephew, fluent in English, to show her how to follow through. This suggests to me there are Arachne members who are not commenting because they are lacking information about how to do a Search that might inspire them to share knowledge with us. If you do not know how to do a Search, please ask someone to show you. It opens up a large lace world for you to explore, and sometimes that is what you need - perhaps you are unable to physically make lace, but would like to learn more on a lonely day. If someone sends you addresses (as I often do) and you do not know how to highlight them and go directly to the sites, please ask someone to show you how. Why? In this case of Jane Atkinson's lace exhibit, there is a time limit. By the time you read about it in local guild newsletters and a larger guild's bulletin, it will have have closed. Jane Read requested a response about Ebb 'n' Flow, which will close October 28th. There is still time for people to attend it, and for someone to reply via Arachne.  A personal review by one of our members is preferable. >From afar, I can do Searches. Why don't you try this? By example, I've included in many memos where information was found, because I want everyone to learn how to do basic lace research. It seems that efforts to share-by-example are ignored. You respect teachers and professors (to whom many of you have paid tuition), but there is much to be gained by reading free Arachne postings. In this case: The person we want to know about is Jane Atkinson. We know the exhibit is Ebb 'n' Flow. Try searching both. I got the best list of information by Searching - Jane Atkinson lace exhibit Ebb 'n' Flow. If you can work your way through complicated lace patterns, you can all do this. Someone who experienced the exhibit can write an original response to Arachne, because her memory has been refreshed. Atkinson has written an article about her laces. It is in the Summer issue of the American IOLI Bulletin, pg. 32, and there are several laces pictured which are in the Ebb 'n' Flow exhibition. Also in America - there is a piece of her lace in the - Lace, not Lace - exhibit. It is shown and written about in the exhibit catalog, page 25. It is normal for bulletins from The Lace Guild (England) to contain an article from Atkinson, because she has been very generous. Sometimes memory kicks in. It took over an hour, but I found her article in my bulletin files, Ebb 'n' Flow, page 20 of the October 2017 issue. One year ago. It gives her website: www.contemporarylace.com Several times per year I recommend membership in The Lace Guild. It consistently publishes the best articles, color photography, and most content (64 pages, in Summer issue) - in 4 bulletins per year. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center---In a message dated 10/10/2018 7:44:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, janefr...@googlemail.com writes: Dear Jeri, I entirely agree with you, and its not just the Brugge congress...enjoyed your article...also the article from Devon about 'Lace, not Lace' exhibition...I'd love to hear more...what about 'Ebb 'n' Flow'? I'm trying to decide when I can fit in a visit. Is it worth it? What is the exhibition like? What should I look for? I don't remember another summer when there has been so much lace happening. Please, those who've been or participated, tell us about it!! Jane Read, New Forest, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] World Lace Congress in Brugge Belgium
There has never been a Lace Congress of the scope that the many Belgian lace makers gave to their guests from around the world in August. Their volunteer hours could never be equaled by other groups hosting a major lace event, for sure. Still waiting to read on Arachne about the experiences other lacemakers had in Belgium at the World Lace Congress and Tour. Instead, since I briefly mentioned cameras in a memo dated September 16th, several people wrote about photography. How can this be? Is the Arachne lace goddess not delivering mail to me? We are not about photography. We are about lace. I hope to read about lace experiences others had in Belgium. Why do I have to beg, when such a magnificent feast of laces was presented to us each day? There are lots of memories to share with our international lace community. Those memories need to be documented by the people who were there. In a message dated 9/16/2018 3:58:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, jeria...@aol.com writes: This was definitely the most educational of all European Congresses I have attended in the past 20 years.need to leave something for others to write about. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Fwd: Lace and Embroidery in London Auction - October 8, 2018
2nd attempt to reach Arachne. Jeri From: jeria...@aol.com To: www.l...@arachne.com Sent: 10/4/2018 2:54:24 PM Eastern Standard Time Subject: Lace and Embroidery in London Auction - October 8, 2018 There is an auction on the 8th of October in London. To save time, you can go directly to the pages in the catalog that feature laces and embroideries, starting on page 14: https://kerrytaylorauctions.com/catalog/?id=452=14 Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Securing knots in silk - conservation comments
If you work with slippery silk, please read last paragraphs (below). Did the regular list of members receive the reply sent to Liz in North Carolina yesterday? The people on my bcc list (including myself) got it. However, AOL sent me a reject message because I put www in front of lace@arachne.com,   If you know someone using gmail who does not get what I write, that is an Arachne programming issue. To get around that, I have a private bcc list. Send a request directly to me. Bcc messages do not show your address to any other people. Cc messages do. Remember to search the AOL archives when backed into a corner. http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html Just searched "knotting silk" and got a couple old silk tying off messages right at the top, no mention of paste, from Jane Partridge and Sue Babbs. Sue referred back to advice from David (Australia). Lacemakers, if you work with slippery silk, why not do a short test today of what they said compared to what you do, and report back to Arachne giving silk manufacturer's name and describing the knot? (By the way, Sue has been bcc'd because she uses gmail.) Original question and comments to Liz are below, for those who did not receive yesterday's letter from me. Sorry Avital, but I do not know if regular subscribers received yesterday's letter. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center--  In a message dated 9/27/2018 10:16:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, lbuy...@nc.rr.com writes: I have a question about the best way to secure knots in silk thread? I have just finished a piece from the "Into a Circle" pattern pack using Bart and Francis flat silk thread. I have done the sewings and tied a surgeons knot. I have not cut off the bobbins yet and I can see that some of the knots are beginning to open up. In Japanese Embroidery a dab of wheat paste is used to make sure nothing slips. But I can hear Jeri gasping in horror from here! Do any of you have any suggestions? Thank you, Liz R, Raleigh, NC --Dear Liz in North Carolina (3 states north of Florida), Location is explained for non-Americans who might not be able to identify NC. Raleigh is located inland. To conservation experts, climate matters. With this explanation you can relate to weather maps seen on the news. The advice to weave cut ends of threads back into the lace as invisibly as possible sounds like a good choice to me. Change direction once if able to do so, before you cut. I will not gasp about the use of wheat paste, Liz. That is what I used when I took Japanese silk and metal embroidery lessons. However, this form of embroidery was stitched on silk material that had an underlining of firm cotton. The cotton served as a barrier so paste did not seep through to silk material. Conservation begins when an object is 1) designed and 2) the materials for making it are selected. You have no idea how any purchased fiber has been processed and made into thread, and what may be embedded deep in the fibers. Silk thread choice of slippery or matte depends on the visual effect you want. Since it is traditionally used in the Orient, follow the lead of millions of professionals who have used silk - for centuries. Some of the best silk works ever created (usually for royalty) have survived for a long time. Even longer, when found in sealed tombs and ice caves where air did not affect them. In the present, there are decisions to make. Will you ever want to wash the lace? If so, no paste!  The lace belongs to you. Choose wheat- or rice-based powders and make into paste with distilled water, if you absolutely feel it is necessary. That depends, of course, on how the silk lace will be used. (Some old silk laces in my collection were starched - potato-based - and dipped in tea, which are other questionable practices. I have soaked them in distilled water to restore them to being softer and of a creamy color. There have been no bad results that might be caused by pasted knots because paste was probably never used when these old laces were made.) If you must use paste, Liz, I would advise against those sold in craft stores. Formulas change constantly and have not been time-tested on lace.  Please remember what I have advised about lace conservation concerns. Make a small throw-away "doodle" piece using threads you will use in the larger project. Test knots and paste or glue on that. It will not be totally fool-proof, because food-based substances will change in character over time. Oxidation will darken them. Wheat or rice pastes are edible, and may attract microcosms looking for a meal. If critters "nibble" they weaken threads. There are no guarantees even though you try to follow best possible advice from conservat
Re: [lace] Book recommended
Dear Lace Book Readers, Books that are printed on paper are my preference. Even Devon Thein's catalog for a very modern lace exhibition that opened last Sunday is a printed book: Lace, not Lace - Contemporary Fiber Art from Lacemaking Techniques. This form of book will not become obsolete when new technologies replace Kindle in the relatively near future. Devon owns the copyright. The Subject line of David's memo says "Book recommended". Searched, and only found Kindle references to The Lace Weaver by Lauren Chater. Please forgive my ignorance, but can it be purchased as a REAL book - by my definition?  Thankfully, this is a work of fiction. If any of you want to have something of substance that you wrote available to read in a dozen years, consider paper and ink. It will be copyright-protected for years to come. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource CenterIn a message dated 9/27/2018 11:28:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, dccoll...@ncable.net.au writes: Dear Friends Last night I bought a book on kindle which has been highly recommended. It'scalled "The Lace Weaver" by Lauren Chater. It'll be a while till I get to it but I'm always a bit wary when the authorcalls it weaving. I don't know any lace makers who do. We'll see David Downunder in Ballarat, AUS -To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write toarachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] World Lace Congress of 2018 in Brugge, Belgium
ing shaped somewhat like an American Cape Cod house. The interior had been gutted and painted white. From the structural beams hung sheer white fabric maybe 10" wide, to each of which were.attached about 8 red strips of laces side-by-side made by lace makers of all ages and all skill levels. It was an effective, and simply lovely lace display, made joyful by the choice of color. An idea for you: At one exhibit a small plate of cookies was offered. The cookies were about the size of an American nickel, and the tops had a lace design of icing. Fun to make. Fun to share. I travel without phone, computer, or camera because of an old-fashioned preference for absorbing all that is around me. So, you will be seeing photos taken by others, many of whom seemed to never stop clicking long enough to emotionally "see" and "feel" the laces and the places where they were exhibited. I look forward to seeing results of all the photography that will document this lace adventure. There will always be more to learn about lace. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: Catalog memo from Devon Thein - which was about Lace, not Lace
Arachne Web Mistress, Avital: I have not trimmed this message, because it is being sent as a bcc to many individuals who are not Arachne members, as well as to Arachne, to give Lace, not Lace: Contemporary Fiber Art from Lacemaking Techniques additional publicity. Jeri Dear Devon and people everywhere who are interested in lace, A lace exhibition in an American museum is exceedingly rare and to be frequently acknowledged as a special destination for a lace pilgrimage. The Hunterdon Art Museum in NJ sent detailed information to financial donors who covered the costs of presenting Lace, not Lace. Hopefully, the museum has greatly underestimated how many lace lovers will be attending the opening of Lace, not Lace. Please, dear friends, overwhelm the museum and the town of Clinton NJ with your presence. Join us and send a great message to many that women create art in all mediums and, in this case, use rare or newly-developed techniques and unusual materials to make 20th to 21st C. lace. (Please wear lace on this occasion.) Information sent by the museum states that Devon Thein will be leading 2 additional exhibition tours - at 11:00 a.m.-12:00 noon on Saturday November 3 and on Sunday November 11. Registration required. Phone: 908 + 735-8415. Museum is closed Mondays. There will be a Drop-in Lacemaking Program at 11:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. on Sunday November 11 and on Sunday December 9. Also, Elena Kanagy-Loux will be teaching a Beginner Bobbin Lace Workshop at 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. on Sunday November 4. Registration required. Phone: 908 + 735-8415 Suggestion: Search each person's name associated with this exhibition. To locate the right one, add ", Lace".  Examples: Devon Thein, Lace or Manca Ahlin, Lace Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 9/15/2018 10:43:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: The opening is a week from Sunday, and it is getting very excitinghere. Lieve Jerger arrived last Sunday and spent Monday, Tuesday andWednesday installing the Carriage of Lost Love, the life size copperwire bobbin lace carriage that she has been working on since 1977. Itis even more spectacular in person than in a photograph. I amimpressed with the Hunterdon Art Museum and the talent they can callupon for installing art work. Once it had been installed by Lieve, themuseum called in a Marco Antonio Hernandez ofhttps://www.creativelabconsulting.com/ to hang the largest of the fourwheels, and to work on the lighting. He has done a fantastic job oflighting the carriage. It was a bit of a conundrum because when youlight the carriage from the outside, the light makes the wire sparklemagically. But when you light the carriage from the inside, it has theeffect of projecting the designs of the carriage windows on the wallwhere they are enlarged like a shadow show. In fact, you can see thehalf stitch better when it is enlarged and projected on the wall bythe lighting, than you can even see it by looking directly at thecarriage. However, Marco came in and managed to achieve both effectssimultaneously. Bravo! I took a little film of the effect and postedit on the International Organization of Lace's facebook page. However,it is hard to really convey how magical it looks in photographs.The rest of the art is unpacked and laid out where it will beinstalled. Yesterday Alex Goldberg installed her invisible lace,called Invisible Place. When you approach it from across the room youreally can't see it, but as you get closer you begin to see theshadows on the wall. I am looking forward to seeing what Marco and theother installer, Seth will do with lighting this.Manca Ahlin is due to install her two pieces, one of them the neverbefore seen, Mani Lace Wall. This piece is based on her recent travelsto Tibet where the Mani stones piled up into prayer walls reminded herof lace.The museum opens at 11 am. Due to the party like aspect of the openingreception, people might like to come a little early to really look atthe art. The reception is 3-5. I will speak briefly at 4. At 5 o'clockwe will go out to the terrace where Choi + Shine will speak about theUrchins, the two large reticella style crocheted Urchins that will beon display until Oct. 7. There will be music and a food truck on theterrace. At 6:50, sundown, the Urchins will be lit for the first time.People are able to stand inside the Urchins while they floatethereally. I am hoping to have my picture taken inside one.Afterward, people who are staying over, or who just want to congregateare encouraged to go over to the Holiday Inn for a drink. If you thinkyou might do this, let me know so that I can give the Holiday Inn arough number of people, so they are properly staffed.Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Aurofil threads
Dear Liz, Congratulations! A wonderful compliment to have your lace featured on current Australian Lace Magazine's back cover. Please clarify your comment about the Aurofil threads - for people who do not make needle lace. Was your Gros Point made with both #50 and #28? How was the ribbon "frame" made for your beautiful Gros Point needle lace? It is unusual and very effective. Are instructions in a book? If so, please provide Author and Title. Jeri Ames in Maine USALace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 9/14/2018 12:05:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, lizl...@bigpond.com writes: ... a piece of Gros Point type lace I made using Aurofil #50. I found the thread quite nice to work with though I found the #28 (?) not so nice, as I thought the twist was much looser. It can be seen here -http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/photo/gros-point-wildflower-spray?context=use r Liz. in sunny but windy Melbourne, Oz. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Bart-Francis Thread Factory and Texture - Lace Exhibit - Kortrijk, Belgium
Arachnes who made arrangements early this year to meet with me in Bruges have already received this info. Gmail and AOL do not usually interface. Bcc's have been sent to gmail users who have asked to be on my private list. There is not much more one can do to reach everyone associated in some way with Arachne and lace.  In the spirit of sharing ...  Bart, Francis, and I have been corresponding. If you will be in Bruges for the World Lace Congress Brugge 2018, and are not signed up to take the lace tour, you can go to Kortrijk by train, then use local transport to the Bart-Francis thread factory, and afterwards walk 350 meters to the "Texture" museum exhibit.  (Before you leave train station, be sure to check schedule of trains that will return you to Bruges.)  Bart-Francis is a famous thread and yarn business in Kortrijk (Courtrai) Belgium. They are well-known for the unique selection of threads they manufacture.  They will not be selling at the World Lace Congress Brugge 2018.  You are invited to the shop in their factory, open to the public Thursday August 16 through Sunday August 19 from 10 am to 4 pm. Free Italian Roasted Expresso coffee and tea will be served these four days. Bart-Francis is offering remarkable discounts, so ask about them. I suggest going in the morning, so you have time for the museum and getting back to Bruges by mid-to-late-afternoon.   At Bart-Francis, you will have 600 square meters of shopping fun, instead of a tiny booth. For address and phone number, select British flag upper right for English at:  https://www.bart-francis.be/  Write:  i...@bart-francis.be  Bart recommends a lace exhibit, TEXTURE, at the living lace expo a short distance from Bart-Francis. I had wonderful remarks to make 20 years ago about the now-closed DeKort Flax and Lace Museum in Kortrijk. Cannot tell you much about this new museum, but you can search for more information and personal comments. Bart has sent some details - below this letter. Museum is open 10 am to 6 pm. Please be sure to check train schedule for return trip, to be sure of no schedule difficulty. Address for official information:  Select EN language at top right:  http://www.texturekortrijk.be  There is a lot of flax info if you search Kortrijk in Arachne archive:  http://www.mailarchive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  Regards, Jeri  --  See below for additional info Bart sent. TEXTURE Tells the story of the flax and linen industry. A story about strong roots, about craftsmanship and entrepreneurship, about daring innovations and constantly re-inventing oneself. In three rooms, in an authentic flax depot (1912) on the banks of the river Lys, you can learn about the revolutionary development created by the flax industry in this region. The past will surprise you, while the stories of the present, will amaze and inspire you. For centuries, Flanders has been famous for its textiles. A new industry sprung up along the banks of the Lys and went on to conquer the world: flax processing. âCourtrai flaxâ soon became renowned as the best flax obtainable and still is eagerly sought internationally.  Three rooms, three stories You use flax every day, probably without knowing it and at places you would not expect it. Designers, scientists and entrepreneurs leave no part of it unused. Discover, try, feel and test it all in the The cabinet of Curiosities. The Leie room brings to life the story of flax processing in the Leie region. This story is one of mixed fortunes, of people who without outside assistance repeatedly found the resilience to overcome major crises. Itâs a fascinating history with thinkers, darers and doers in the leading roles. Beneath the golden crown you will find the Treasure chamber. This is the place to marvel at the beautiful damasks, laces, handwork and fine fabrics. About the current expo : BIOLACE Carole Collet, Professor of Design for Sustainable Futures, has been working for several years on BIOLACE, a research that connects textiles, food production and sustainability. What if you could harvest both strawberries and a 'pickled' lace dress from a plant? BIOLACE introduces four  plants: Basil n ° 5, Gold Nano Spinach, Factor 60 Tomato and Strawberry Noir. Their DNA is programmed so that their roots grow in a lace pattern. Texture links elements from the museum collection to these four plant themes. With a variety of fine lace strips, black chantilly and gold and silver wire lace, the past and present are woven into a guideline for the future. A quirky exhibition that combines high-quality, rare lace with a biotechnological vision for the year 2050. Welcome to the world of BIOLACE. - If wanted, some info about Kortrijk  https://www.toerismekortrijk.be/en Living art during summer holiday :
[lace] Pine Tree Quilts Show in Maine this Weekend
If you are vacationing in Maine this weekend and looking for something to do inside (it is raining cats and dogs today), you might enjoy the quilt show. The late Lori Howe (Lace Fairy) often entered quilts with lace embellishments. Cannot guarantee lace on quilts, but it is a nice place to study design and color theory. This is the largest craft group in Maine. Show is July 26-28, 9 am to 5 pm, $10, at Augusta Civic Center, 76 Community Drive, Augusta ME. Parking free. Usual American chain restaurants across the street. Just off the Interstate in Augusta, which is about 60 miles north of Portland and 90 miles south of Bangor. It is away from the crowded coastal area, and there are rarely traffic jams. Admission $10.  https://mainequilts.org/event/maine-quilts-2018-41st-quilt-show/  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] August 17, 2018 Belgian Lace Congress and Tour - Bruges Journal
In the spirit of sharing ...  A delightful lace blog is produced by Sr. Madeleine, an American Sister from Cape Cod Massachusetts, who is a valued member of The New England Lace Group. It is titled Sr. Madeleine's Bruges Journal. This is recommended reading, going backward for several years. Not every entry is about lace, but just skip along and you will find some enjoyable information to contemplate. It is a lovely overview for all who love lace. This is particularly recommended to those who will be attending the World Lace Congress Brugge 2018. (Her most recent postings are about her recent trip to Ireland.)  Sr. Madeleine will be one of the volunteers you may meet at the Congress, and those taking the tour will probably meet her at the Beguinage in Bruges.  >From her writings you will gain insight into traditional uses of laces in Europe. Her words are more gently personal and charming than advertising and professional promotions could ever be.   Please comment, so others will be encouraged to read what you enjoyed.  www.belgianprayersandlace.wordpress.com  (Spelling for this location depends on whether you are using Flemish or French. This explains spellings of Bruges and Brugges above.)  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] IOLI Handbook
Dear Susie,  Agreed. There is too much personal information in the Handbook for it to be accessed by computer, even by members.  Some people share computers with family (all ages and agendas), and some use computers at work or in libraries and schools. It is too easy to absent-mindedly leave a computer on when one leaves a desk, or even when traveling.  The printed handbook is indispensable for privately contacting other members, so serves a valuable function. Keep it in a safe place. SHRED, when it become obsolete.  "Do unto others as you would have them do unto you."  As Susie said, everyone is able to refuse to have their information in the printed Handbook.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- In a message dated 7/16/2018 12:34:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, cjohnson0...@comcast.net writes:  Has anyone heard if the handbook is going to also be available on line. If I was to have a chance to vote...I would say no. But, It makes a difference to some how we fill out our contact details on our renewals sheet, so I would appreciate an answer. Thanks all, Susie - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] IOLI Bulletin - Staying organized
Dear Lacemakers,  Is there a library collection anywhere in the world housing books and publications focused on both embroidery and lace that is more extensive than the one here?  How does that owner feel about this subject ?  In the case of this library in Maine USA, it is preferable to hold a magazine in the hand. The instructions received from the IOLI Bulletin Editor add more complexity, as you will read below.    My lace and embroidery library, now 4,075 books, is probably the most extensive private collection in the world for research on these subjects, especially valuable because the librarian here has read everything in English and is familiar with what else has been saved that is written in other languages. Though periodical publications have not been inventoried, a system recently began of storing bulletins of guilds / publishers (like PieceWork) in plastic bins - by organization. There are also bins holding obsolete publications. Contents are filed by date, with the most current at the top. They have their own designated room.  No one can countermand the owner, who belongs to about 12 guilds just to receive the bulletins (dues are a large expense).   Imagine having different access instructions for each and every item here ! Imagine changes every time editors / officers change and institute their preferences, or constantly having to adapt to new technologies.  When a book or magazine bibliography lists references used, my filing system is easy to use to find originals. Even if I had a volunteer (Ha Ha), there are other tasks of more value to do. An inventory, like the existing one of books, is of considerable value in helping to find the exact book needed. I fail to see the benefit of doing this with periodical publications, given the labor necessary to implement and constantly update. A storage system is the answer here.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- In a message dated 7/10/2018 9:39:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbl...@sbcglobal.net writes: I wrote about IOLI increasing dues to cover mailing and printing costs of the magazine and the new digital version at lower cost. Can anyone answer my question on a Google Account, and what do others think of this new version? Janice Blair Murrieta, CA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Interesting use of modern black lace - Conservation advice
Re: queeniepatch.blogspot.com  Thank you, Susan. Any exhibit of Japanese needlework deserves study. Always makes me whisper This blog page is short, so don't wait too long to view. There is already an embroidery lesson that pops up before the quilts. Note design, use of color, and quality of materials/workmanship. Also, how kimono stands have been used (elegantly) for display of these large items.  It is mentioned that kimono stands were used to air clothing after wearing. This is textile conservation at its best, because frequent cleaning is what wears out clothing the most - not the actual wearing of clothes. Please air your lace accessories after you wear them so no cooking, smoke or perfume odors linger. Remember that embedded soil and cosmetics in lace threads is very difficult to safely remove. Please attend to "maintenance" before returning a lace hankie, collar, scarf, etc. to storage.   Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  In a message dated 6/26/2018 8:47:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:  To see photos of entries in the Wa quilt show at Gajoenâtake a look at queeniepatch.blogspot.com & scroll down to Saturday 23rd. The Suffolk Puff quilt (yo yos) is made on a LACE foundation. Susan Hottle USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Happy International Lace Day
 Actually, if remembered correctly, different nations have declared different dates as being International Lace Day. I think we wrote in the past that all the major lace organizations should get together and standardize this celebration, if it is to be called "International". It would be nice if our major guilds communicated with each other, and if one major guild volunteered to take this on as a special project. I'd suggest one officer in each group should be assigned this responsibility. Maybe the corresponding secretary? Probably OIDFA has the best network to provide oversight. What do others think?  We need to preserve and develop as much consensus as possible about lace, and that means cooperating.  We are a small percentage of the world's population. No one nation's lace experts has all the answers. If all could agree in spite of national, traditional, and language differences, we might die knowing organizing lace activities will survive to the 22nd Century and beyond.  Do you remember when two major annual lace conventions/congresses were scheduled for the same dates? It was really a problem for lace teachers and students who could not be in two places at the same time. That got resolved (permanently, we hope).  We have a universal Internet to use. Agreeing on one International Lace Day per year is just one of several things that need attention in order to be "united-in-lace".  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 6/25/2018 10:56:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes:  Reading Lin's email this morning I was eager to post International Lace Day on the International Organization of Lace's facebook page. I tried to confirm the date. I think that it is actually July 1, this year. So there is still a little bit of time to organize your lacemaking and to post about your participation on the Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/InternationalLaceDay/ Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Gawthorpe Hall featured in "Victorian Homes" American magazine
You have read memos from me about Gawthorpe Hall, where the 2nd largest textile collection in England (after the Victoria and Albert Museum) resides.  Gawthorpe was built between 1600 and 1605, before the Puritans landed on Plymouth Rock (1620). Another historic frame of reference is that Queen Elizabeth I died in 1603.  The Summer 2018 edition of the American magazine, Victorian Homes, features properties "Restored and Resplendent". Among them, Gawthorpe Hall, pages 32-41. Decorative features - everything from wood carvings, furniture, wallpaper, carpets, plastered ceilings, etc. give wonderful ideas for lace and embroidery designs. Wish they told more about the lace, embroidery, and costume collections of Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth.  They did not give a web address, but I will - because so much that is inspiring for guild programs can be found - at www.gawthorpetextiles.org.uk/  Work your way backwards to the blog for March 29th, to see a famous lace panel "Battle of Britain". on exhibit this year. If you wish to see items in the collection, including lace and whitework, click on Online Gallery at the top of the blog.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] New post: The Country Wife Mural 5. bobbin lacemaking,, tatting, knitting, etc.
Around the table are women knitting, tatting, making gloves, sewing, etc. A blouse on the table was made by Mary Quant, famous fashion designer years after the mural was made. It is this post that includes the bobbin lace maker.  If you cannot resist the urge (smile!), have the time (smile!) and want to learn glove-making (smile!), a book to locate that probably is out-of-print is: "How to Make Gloves - Step-by-Step Instructions for Beginners", by Eunice Close, published by Charles T. Branford Company, Boston, 1950. Close also wrote "Lace Making", published by John Gifford, London, 1970. Jeri  Hello Jeri Ames, I have published new post on Stitching Idyllic website. The Country Wife Mural 5. The centre of the mural is very busy. I imagine that it is a weekday afternoon and the ladies of the Women's Institute are gathered in the Church Hall where they will enjoy each others company, catch up on the news, discuss topics of interest while all the time, keeping ... You may view the latest post at http://annbernard.com/2018/06/07/the-country-wife-mural-5/ You received this e-mail because you asked to be notified when new updates are posted. Please post comments on the Post and share with your friends on Social Media. Alternatively you may email me at a...@annbernard.com Thank you, Ann Bernard - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] 2018 Arachne Motif Exchange - ideas
Dear Arachne Subscribers,  You are quiet this week!  Some of you might benefit from encouraging words about making lace motifs to suit a collection. My pair of silver-plated table top trees, with branches made of curved metal tubes, are used at Christmas for angels clad in red / white / blue - lace / embroidered / hand-sewn gowns. They are from countries around the world (as are members of Arachne), and have been described before. Because a collection of hearts has never been started, angels stay on display until Valentine's Day.  The pair of trees are kept in use, and motifs in the form of ornaments related to Easter go on them next.  Following Easter, a collection of embroidered birds (motif-size) is installed. Designs were selected in 1972 from "ethnic" embroidery books. There is one white lace pair of birds, from Nottingham England.  Just before Summer, the table top trees are finally packed away.  Next, a collection of vintage 2-piece glass salt dishes shaped like nesting hens take over - a "parade" of 16 colors march across the mantle - in remembrance of Grandfather's farm. Popular when windows were opened (before air conditioning) because silver salt shakers quickly tarnish or corrode. The bottom glass basket holds salt; the hen acts as a lid to keep salt clean. Tiny bone spoons were used to sprinkle salt on food.   When these are packed away, seashells are next. Etc.  Does this give you fun ideas for lace motifs? My hanging collections do not have apparent means of support, because fine invisible sewing thread is used to suspend them. This means they gently move when one walks by and creates a "breeze".  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center   - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Fwd: New post published The Country Wife Mural 4 on Stitching Idyllic website
Canadians may especially enjoy what Ann has to say in last paragraphs of this blog about her memories. Only one reply was received that requested notice of further commentary. Sad, really, as what senior members of Arachne remember of the 20th C. is quickly fading away. Anyway, here it is. Jeri Hello Jeri Ames, I have published new post on Stitching Idyllic website. The Country Wife Mural 4 The central area of the Country Wife Mural appears to be inside a Church Hall judging by the shape of the windows. It is well lit and the ladies of the Women's Institute are occupied with the skills that were normal activities for them. Restoration of the mural is progressing. The ... You may view the latest post at http://annbernard.com/2018/06/04/the-country-wife-mural-4/ You received this e-mail because you asked to be notified when new updates are posted. Please post comments on the Post and share with your friends on Social Media. Alternatively you may email me at a...@annbernard.com Thank you, Ann Bernard - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] The Country Wife by Constance Howard, Comments 2 and 3
Are any of you in the U.K. interested in further comments about Constance Howard's mural? If there is no response I will stop sharing Ann Bernard's postings. Her second posting is at: http://annbernard.com/2018/05/29/the-country-wife-mural-2/  Ann was a student at the Royal School of Needlework about 60 years ago, and now lives in Canada. She is seeking input about lives of women in the post-WWII period. Perhaps someone has comments about the Lacemaker in the lower right corner for her?  Back then, many of us made nearly all our clothes. We did not have the relatively inexpensive clothing now often made in the Far East. Career clothing for the few women who worked in business was expensive. Even in America, our fashion choices were very different from today.  Have you looked at photos of groups of lacemakers in your guild publications lately? They seem to be uniformly attired in easy-care tee shirts and pants - everywhere in the world. If you are a lacemaker, please add some feminizing lace. This week I've been harvesting lace motifs from my stash of old damaged laces (saved to repair other laces) - for just this purpose.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center Sent: 6/1/2018 10:10:26 AM Eastern Standard Time Subject: New post published The Country Wife Mural 3 on Stitching Idyllic website Hello Jeri Ames, I have published new post on Stitching Idyllic website. The Country Wife Mural 3 The ladies choir is in full voice. Look at their faces, their expressions, their hats and their clothes. Fabric was in short supply in those post war years so that it is possible that the different fabrics came from available stashes. Make do and mend was still prevalent at the ... You may view the latest post at http://annbernard.com/2018/06/01/the-country-wife-mural-3/ Thank you, Ann Bernard - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Book: Fashionable white-embroidered accessories 1840-1900
Fashionable white-embroidered accessories - C. 1840 to 1900 By Heather Toomer, drawings and patterns by Elspeth Reed. Published by Heather Toomer Antique Lace, 2018, paper cover. 192 pages, cover price £ 19.95, ISBN 978-0-9542730-4-0 - --- Each time Heather Toomer sends a newly-published book for review it calls for a quick preliminary look at the clear photos of items featured, and the lovely drawings of costumes and patterns by Elspeth Reed. This time, what can one do but sigh deeply and wish for occasions in the 21st C. to wear 19th C. collars, cuffs, chemisettes, and undersleeves that covered arms from wrists to elbows? All these items offered opportunities to add laces to lacy embroidered accessories over 100 years ago.  Some lacemakers dress in period clothing when they demonstrate lace skills in museums, historic sites, etc. This raises questions:  1) Are we doing enough demonstrating in period clothing, which has a way of attracting young people who might be tempted to learn lacemaking?  2) Are we developing the skills of a century or more ago so that damaged laces can be repaired?  3) Do we have enough teachers to develop a following by focused students eager to recreate laces?  Oh! So many concerns. These immediate thoughts flooded the mind and were recorded before study of this new research. All of Toomer's books are delicious and of value to textile authors, antiques dealers, auctioneers, collectors, costumers, historians, museum curators, students and teachers, conservation and restoration experts, etc. An added bonus is that one may find information to document favorite laces and lacy embroideries.  Readers of this review may have handmade laces and need patterns of 19th C. embroidery patterns and fashion accessories. You will find them here.  This is the fourth - and last - in a series. Toomer's previous books are: 2013 - White-embroidered costume accessories of the 1790s to 1840s: http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg44053.html 2008 - Embroidered with White: http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg30243.html  2004 - Baby wore white, robes for special occasions 1800-1910: No review found in Arachne archives. If this is a subject of interest, it is recommended. Reviews can be found by doing a G***le search.  Methods of sewing gradually changed between 1840 and 1900, as hand-operated machines for embroidery became available, followed by widespread use of manually-operated sewing machines on which skilled operators could replicate many types of embroidery.  Even so, lacy white work embroidery often required needle lace fillings, pulled thread work, cut work, needlepoint lace. These techniques offered a great variety of options for one to learn and use.  Comparisons of what the author calls handmachine vs. handmade embroidery will be helpful to scholars and and those who have collected white work of this period. We are provided with well-informed information about Broderie Anglaise (a type of embroidery known also as Renaissance, Richelieu, etc.). Excellent photography of both fronts and backs of accessories will be of great value. It is often an examination of both sides that helps identify who, what, when, where, and how.  Ordering information is at: http://www.heather-toomer.com/175227342 Click on Page 2 for the formal description of this book. Correspond with Heather Toomer at htac2...@gmail.com This book is also available - in the U.K. only - through Amazon.  When Victoria became Queen, she required adult clothing and accessories. What she and her extensive family wore influenced attire of people all over the world, especially the growing middle class. They adapted the costly laces they could not afford by making accessories that we describe as white work. This resulted in these items being plentiful enough to be available today at reasonable prices. Nearly everyone can afford an antique or vintage white-embroidered accessory to which lace has been added.  Please wear lace! Start a lace discussion!  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Auction with Vintage/Celebrity/Royal Clothes, London
Those who enjoy looking at auction catalogs - In the June 18th one by Kerry Taylor Auctions in London, I especially loved the baby and childhood clothing of Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret. The tiny pink coat, is adorable. The clothing we wore 60 years ago, with the very full skirts. was so lovely (but not when we had to pack a suitcase). Of course, we spent hours and hours laundering and pressing those clothes that wrinkled so easily (before wash-and-wear). As usual, you will see some lace and embroidery here and there in the vintage offerings.  https://kerrytaylorauctions.com/ Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Conservation of The Country Wife - England
As we often recommend - take care of your textiles (including laces) so they do not require professional conservation/restoration.  News has come that this very unique 15 foot x 12 foot 1951 textile, designed by and made under the direction of Constance Howard, is undergoing conservation. Perhaps you would think this three- to five-year endeavor of interest, especially since it probably did not take that many years to create. The padded figures are five eights the size of an average person and in high relief on flat felt backings. This clearly shows in the photos at: https://www.nationalneedleworkarchive.org.uk/country-wife-mural.html  Perhaps someone can find a nice full-screen photo of this wall hanging and share the address. I found photos, but greatly reduced in size. A lacemaker is located in the extreme lower right corner.   Constance Howard, was a teacher well-known to American embroiderers. We were quite fascinated with her bright green (almost turquoise) hair back in the 1980s. Her obituary states she began this transformation in the 1930s using lithographer's ink! There are 11 books by her in my library, and probably more were written.  Her accomplishments were considerable and included establishing the Department of Embroidery at Goldsmiths' College, London, in 1948 - at a time when embroidery was not considered "art". She was appointed MBE in 1975. She died in 2000.  https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/1349752/Constance-Howard.html  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Comprehensive list of lace books?
Dear Amy,  (Everyone asking for help - please give a hint of where you are. Replies to questions like this need to be customized by location. You could be in Iowa, Israel, or India!)  It is probable that Lorelei's many links will be your very best resource. She has voluntarily spent years doing a tremendous amount of research, for which there can never be enough thanks from us.  However, you did ask for a list of lace books in the Subject line of your memo.  I am guessing that you are in New York State, where you will find local lace guilds and groups that may have lace libraries for members. There is a comprehensive lace book library at Cornell that you can access if you are near that. If you know what you want, you can use Interlibrary Loan at any local public library. They will obtain a book from the nearest library that has it. There may be a fee to defray associated costs. You probably used Interlibrary Loans in college/university, and are familiar with it.  If you belong to International Organization of Lace - the not-for-profit American national lace guild - you can borrow from their library. You can look to see holdings (by author, or by subject) at https://internationalorganizationoflace.org/Library/library.html without being a member.  If you are curious about a book, you can put the Author's name or Title in the Search box of the Arachne archives and maybe find a review and comments. http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  You can also Search by a subject and find what we have written. You are a bit far from Maine, but I have what is probably the largest private library of books (4,000+) about lace/embroidery and related subjects (costumes, history, etc.) in the world. Lace and embroidery have traveled together throughout history, so sometimes what you seek will be in an embroidery book. There are over 1,000 lace titles here. I do not loan books, but if a book is here, it can be beneficial to use my expertise of having read everything at least once and usually knowing what to recommend. My inventory is by Author, then Title, etc.  I am a long-time subscriber to Maine Antique Digest, and that sometimes gives an advantage when someone is interested in old laces. Search Maine Antique Digest in the Arachne archive for examples.  Thanks to members of our lace community, Lace books no longer under copyright have been scanned and can be read in full. Skip past listings of articles, and you will get to Authors of books published before 1923. http://www..cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html  Amy, as a Gmail user, you will not receive my AOL postings, unless you ask to be on my bcc list. Apparently, they are not on "speaking terms" via the free Arachne server that we use (very old equipment/software).  Suggest you print this for future reference.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - In a message dated 5/25/2018 5:32:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, amymills...@gmail.com writes:  Is there a "master list" of lace books floating around somewhere that I could access?  I've found a couple in my obsessive antique shopping, but some guidance would be lovely.  Thanks, Amy - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] mangling lace
Dear Sharon, Dear Sharon, Dear Sharon,  It would be nice to hear what our current members have to say. For additional information, there are 82 memos in the Arachne archives at: https://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Mangling+lace=lace%40arachne.com  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 5/25/2018 3:19:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, rswhite...@shaw.ca writes:  At a recent lace getaway we were fortunate to have a very brief description on mangling linen lace How many of you have tried this and what suggestions would you pass on about your experience ? Sharon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] The archetype of the lacemaker - books
There has been correspondence about Devon Trolly Lace in the past. Search by that name at http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  Once in the archives, if you would like to know more about the subjects mentioned by Sue T. in Dorset, you can search for information about the following:  The book that best informs about lace belonging to Queen Victoria is Royal Honiton Lace by Elsie Luxton and Yusai Fukuyama, Batsford, 1988. Luxton is known for her books on Honiton Lace. There is also a booklet by Kay Staniland and Santina Levey titled Queen Victoria's Wedding Dress and Lace, published by W. S. Maney & Son Ltd., 1983.  Finally, perhaps the best and most enjoyable book to use for research about Queen Victoria's entire wardrobe is In Royal Fashion - Clothes of Charlotte and Victoria by Kay Staniland, published by the Museum of London, 1997. Best described as a best-friend book.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - We went to a Lace Event since then and were shown samples in a book and other items from that time. http://www.barbara-fay.com/index.php/en/component/virtuemart/bobbin-lace/devo n-trolly-lace-patterns-and-lace-for-queen-victoria-detail?Itemid=0 This link will show you a book and give you just a little information Sue T Dorset UK, which is the county next to Devon. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Aurelia Loveman's Lace Definition/Description (Long)
If you are receiving this as a blind carbon copy, it is because it may be interesting to you. And, if you are a user of gmail, we know that aol emails to the Arachne server may not be reaching you.  It is reasonably certain the late Aurelia Loveman would be happy to share what she wrote in the 1987 19-page Museum Catalog for LACE, an exhibit at The Walters Art Gallery, Baltimore Maryland, from October 4, 1988 to February 26, 1989. ISBN 0-911886-36-2. Loveman's wording and phrases are unique, and not for re-publication. This excerpt is under copyright, and is being shared for educational purposes only.  The Origins and Development of Handmade Lace  Lace is a textile whose identity depends entirely on the arrangement and proportion of the spaces between the threads that form the fabric. Textiles other than lace also feature spaces or actual holes in the work, but only as ornament, not fundament. Lace requires a preponderance of empty space over thread. However, this is not sufficient to define the textile; net, for instance, fulfills the condition of preponderant space, but is not lace. The term "lace" applies only when the holes and threads are perceived as forming figured patterns on ground.  Its unique structure would ensure lace a position of interest in the family of textiles but would not in itself confer the romantic attraction lace has for great numbers of people. This additional distinction derives from the fact that for hundreds of years lace was not simply a fashion accessory; it was a powerful economic, political, and artistic force in Europe.  The lace that can be bought today is imitation, machine-made lace. No matter how pretty it may be, and some of it is indeed pretty as well as expensive, it is only superficially like "real lace", as that used to be called, with awe. Real lace was made by hand, either with needle and thread or with bobbins. Needle laces (also called "points") are produced by a single continuous thread, as in embroidery, whereas bobbin laces are made by many threads all in use at the same time, as in weaving. The two techniques are profoundly different; indeed, a bobbin lacemaker rarely knows how to make needle lace, though often the two give surprisingly similar results.  Real lace is an all-but-vanished art form. It appeared in the sixteenth century and reached a pinnacle of perfection in the two centuries that followed. But aristocratic, expensive luxury that it was, lace fell victim to the French Revolution at the close of the eighteenth century, and never fully recovered. In France lace suddenly disappeared; ladies who previously would have sold almost anything to acquire it, now threw away their most exquisite pieces because lace, with its connotations of frivolity, privilege, and extravagance, became dangerous to own. When the danger subsided a decade later, fashions had changed. The delicate, clinging lawns and muslins that had become fashionable were incompatible with the bold and solid needle laces that had been popular for a hundred and fifty years. The long decline had begun, and it was soon accelerated by the appearance of machine-made lace. Although the nineteenth century saw repeated revivals and the declines of the lace industry, handmade lace was finally shouldered aside by the great textile machines, which could produce tolerable imitations of various types of lace - though never lace as "art". Real lace suffered sharp losses of design and markets. Fashions changed, and it went out of style; the phenomenon, if not the textile, vanished.  etc.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center    - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Wedding Veil (Conservation begins with makers)
It may be of interest.that I heard today on morning TV that the embroiderers stopped and washed their hands every 30 minutes. Cleanliness is often mentioned in my conservation/restoration memos to you over the past 23 years, but usually suggested every hour. Now, I am inspired to recommend 30 minutes!  It is known that some people have more acid in their skin than others. This becomes very evident when they start to stitch and soon have a tarnished needle. In addition - use no lotions when doing fine needlework. Some lotion manufacturers claim there is no transfer to threads. However, a friend and I tested this when working on organza white work years ago. We applied lotion approved by a very esteemed needlework school and worked for an hour. Then, we washed and continued. There was a difference exactly where we washed our hands. We tried other lotions with lofty claims and got poor results every time.  Seems minor. Is major. Especially now that technology has made it possible for photographs of our work to be greatly magnified.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 5/20/2018 8:31:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, ameld...@ozemail.com.au writes:  I finally found a good photo of the embroidery on the veil. http://meghansmirror.com/royal-style/royal-wedding/meghan-markle-wedding-cer emony-dress/ After enlarging and enhancing the photo I can confidently suggest that the embroidery was tamboured with some needle applique as well. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Beiderman and Kliot (Verify surname Bei? Bie?)
In the interest of clarity for present and future lace scholars, is Gertrude's surname spelled Bei.. or Bie.. ? Devon spells with ei. Kliot spells with ie. We need to pass on correct spelling of people's names.  When putting the Kliot-related Arachne posting from Devon in the Bobbin Lace book by Kaethe and Jules Kliot today, I found a copy of a couple pages of an information sheet prepared by LACIS, Berkeley CA, in which they gave permission to reprint provided credit is given to LACIS plus a note that readers could obtain the complete article by writing Lacis Antique Lace and Textile Center. This information appeared in the Manhattan Chapter EGA newsletter of Feb. 1982, Sharon - the decade of your proposed book.  Sharon, if you touch upon needle-made laces, it is extremely important to know that nearly all classes were taught by EGA (in the U.S.), because of EGA's reasoning that needle-made laces were made with a threaded needle (with an eye). You might need to know more. I probably have all copies of the EGA magazines/bulletins in the 1980s (period about which you are writing). I belonged to the Manhattan Chapter, and later founded the Morris (NJ) Chapter. At one point, Aurelia Loveman's younger sister, Addie Bush was President of Manhattan Chapter.  Lots of printed lace and embroidery material is in boxes in my studio here in Maine, though poorly organized. Have desperately needed part-time assistance for over 2 decades, but that is not affordable. I am located in Maine because of the amount of space needed for a library/studio, and lower real estate taxes. This location lacks cultural, social, and financial support for textile arts, explaining why I am a member of so many lace and embroidery guilds, plus Arachne.  Jeri Ames, 80 Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 5/17/2018 7:49:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, d2one...@comcast.net writes:  Kaethe Kliot's book ( pages210-211"Bobbin Lace Form by the Twisting of Cords") credits Gertrude Beiderman with the design of several laces which are actually re-workings of designs by Dagobert Peche of the Wiener Werkstatte. In your conversation with Jules, could you ask Jules why there is no mention of the original designer? > On May 16, 2018 at 2:14 PM Sharon Ghamari-Tabrizi <shg...@mail.harvard.edu> wrote: > > > I will ask Jules Kliot if he remembers conversations with Beiderman - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] The English Lace School- Susan Cox - Arachne archives
Dear Devon,  Some of the Arachne members who are now teachers studied under the late Susan Cox. I have written to Arachne on this subject, and have one of the catalogues for potential students in my library. Have you checked the archives? Many times, the answers are right at your fingertips. Here is one found under her name: https://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg45042.html If you go to the Arachne archive, and put Susan Cox in the search box there are over 20 memos about her, and they may lead you to others, which an individual response is not likely to do. http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center --- In a message dated 5/15/2018 10:12:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes:  I keep running across The English Lace School and Susan Cox. For some reason I thought that the Sprigett's business had that name. Can anyone explain the English Lace School and its role in the lace revival? Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] questions for you lace makers living in California in the 1980s
1. Michael Auclair was a good friend of mine. We were both members of the now defunct Lace Guild of New York. I believe I was the only person in our shared lace orbit ever invited to his upper East Side cold water walk-up flat. He was passionate about his lace, and liked to pick my brain about embroidery, since both lace and embroidery have often traveled together on the same textile, whether clothing, household linens, or ecclesiastical textiles. Since embroidery is easier to identify and date, this is important for all to know.  2. Has everyone forgotten that I wrote about the Kliots in California, because of an article in the Nov./Dec. 2017 PieceWork magazine? See: https://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg51462.html  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 5/15/2018 12:11:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, shg...@mail.harvard.edu writes: There was a young man from New York City who was interested in lace in the period? Michael Auclair? Does anyone know about him? Present or past? Any phone numbers or emails? ... I could imagine Bobby meeting him On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:05 AM, Kim Davis <k...@wirelace.net> wrote: > In case anyone ever wants to look at hard copies, we have the complete set > at The Lace Museum in Sunnyvale, CA. > > Kim��� - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace Reporting (Long)
Dear Devon,   Arachne is an international lace treasure; intended to be a communication platform for lace makers everywhere.  I did not intend to be addressing only you and Elena the other day. I wrote to all who subscribe to Arachne (not Facebook and Instagram), hoping others would be encouraged to share lace news. We need a lot of lace reporters. Arachne is a good place to practice. News here can, with specific permission from the author, be adapted to appear in guild newsletters and bulletins. Editors are always looking for news. Our members should be reporting from many geographic areas, not just Northeastern America where you, Elena and I reside and the upper Mid-West, where Lorelei is located.  The U.S. has a huge population, of which there is a very low percentage of lace afficionados. When I beg for more lace reporters, I mean - what is happening lace-wise in other parts of this nation? It was encouraging today to hear from David Collyer. He will be visiting the Pacific Northwest in early 2019. The announcement did not come from the P.N., but from Australia. What else is happening in the U.S.? What is happening in California? The Mountain States? The Southwest? Central States? The South? Alaska? Hawaii? Puerto Rico? We should be inclusive - encouraging our entire nation to be represented in Arachne postings.  Friends in Europe have told me how quickly circumstances of a nation can change, and what can happen to museum collections and research libraries. Throughout history, smaller nations were overrun by armies in a matter of days. This put their historical relics in peril. Maps of the world changed substantially in the 20th C. due to major wars. Ask anyone from Eastern Europe how long it took to resume lace study when their nations needed their labors elsewhere, or were occupied by other nations with a controlling agenda. We know about the textiles of South Korea, but nothing about what may have been preserved in North Korea. (Those who attended OIDFA in Groningen The Netherlands, met a group of South Korean lacemakers. How many reading this know that?)  Weaponry today has the ability to wipe out large geographic areas. Major museum collections are in places that may be targets. Yes, perhaps information will be saved because of modern technology. However, will the actual works of art survive so our descendants can personally hold them, study them and write about them? Concentrating museums and libraries in rather small geographic areas is a dangerous custom about which we can have little influence. We can, however, learn about less-populated areas where there is lace, and less chance of destruction.  What you said about yourself and Elena is so good that I feel it is a perfect time to cut back.  There are many things to do, starting with finding my collections good homes for future lace educational use.  If you remember my laces, perhaps you can suggest safe places where they can go, to educate about history, the stories they tell, conservation/restoration of laces. This is how many laces here are used. Quote: This is an example of . 1) holes from micro-organisms eating lumps of potato starch and the underlying linen, 2) storage that has resulted in acidic off-gasing of wood pulp, severely weakening a textile, 3) visible replacement sections inserted to replace torn lace, 4) careless pressing, 5) mold/fungus, 6) lace where it is apparent more than one lacemaker created it - you can see different tension, workmanship, etc.  I sincerely hope you find more protegees, Devon. You never know when one will stray away to focus (as many have) on motherhood, or because of changing family/career circumstances. An old adage is - Don't put all your eggs in one basket. Think. How fragile are eggs? How fragile is our hold on our lace heritage?  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 5/10/2018 9:16:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: Jeri writes: The above is an illustration of how one of you might take over some lace news reporting, so I can cut back. I would like to reassure Jeri that in fact Elena and I do a great deal of lace news reporting, but it is invisible to those people without facebook or instagram. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] interesting article - Elena Kanagy-Loux, Lacemaker
Let's identify the subject so we can look it up in our archives. This is about Elena Kanagy-Loux, an Arachne member. Yesterday, she was teaching and demonstrating lace making at the British Art Museum, Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut. Hope we will hear from her or Devon about it.  Don't know why, but I was unable to print for my permanent paper files.   Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - In a message dated 5/13/2018 2:39:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, jac...@southworth.me.uk writes:  http://bust.com/style/194476-this-textile-artist-is-giving-new-life-to-tradit ional-lacemaking.html Jacqui, Fleetwood, Lancs, UK. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] New Grounds - Requiring Starch
>From the perspective of conservation/restoration of lace and textiles:  Until aerosol dispensers were developed, starching requirements for very open lace grounds today would have been very difficult. Perhaps it could have been done with a paint or pastry brush, but it would have been messy. Starching was usually done by immersing an item in starch that was made from boiling potatoes down to a slurry mixture. If the mixture was not sufficiently strained through cheesecloth or something similar to remove small particles, these concentrations attracted micro-organisms that found a tasty potato meal. In the process of consuming these, they left behind round holes (they ate the fibers under the bits of starch). I have a late 18th C. handkerchief - shown during my NELG talk last month - that is a perfect example for teaching about what caused tiny round holes in textiles.  Let us consider the modern - synthetic - starches that are sprayed on lace. We might try to remember when products like hair spray came into use. I think it was after WWII. In 1960, I worked for a Yale chemist who developed an automotive product - de-icer - that needed a delivery system. He went to Alcoa and they came up with a spray can. In those days, car door locks iced up in freezing weather so keys could not be inserted. It was also convenient to spray icy windshields and rear windows - for safety. Now, you remotely unlock car doors and push a button on your dashboard to spray on windshield cleaners that contain de-icers in locations with Winter climates.  After inventions have occurred, innovations become possible. Eventually, some are used by artists.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  In a message dated 5/10/2018 9:50:27 AM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes:  One interesting thing that has emerged from private correspondence about new grounds is that many of the new grounds have to be starched on the pillow to avoid collapsing. This had never occurred to me. Does this signify that, lace innovators are thinking more in terms of fiber art than items that are wearables that must withstand washing? - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace Demo at Yale Center for British Art, May 18, 2018
In case there are lace makers within reach of New Haven Connecticut who do not belong to the New England Lace group, I am including below a message members of the NELG received. It has been approved for sharing by Elena (an Arachne member, and presenter of this program at Yale) for sharing with Arachne members. For those of you who have not met her, see the photo on page 39 of your just-received IOLI Bulletin - with the Flying Mosque on the cover.  Elena says: We are very excited about the event and will be sharing pictures for those who can't attend. If anyone who is unable to attend my workshop is interested in taking a class, I will give them the information!  Following is summary of announcement Jeri received from Jill Hawkins of NELG, without quotation marks:  I have just been made aware of a workshop that is being offered by the Yale Center for British Art in New Haven, Connecticut on Friday morning, May 18. During this workshop, participants will have the opportunity to explore representations of lace in the Centerâs collections and observe the process of making handmade lace.  The museum has invited a lace maker from the Brooklyn Lace Guild to demonstrate how lace is made; please register on the Center's website. I would like the public to know that there is a very active lace community in New England and that travel to NYC is not required if they want to learn.  More information can be found on the Center(s) website: https://britishart.yale.edu/event/lace-unveiled-workshop   Once you have viewed the site above, you will understand why I (Jeri) wrote to Elena about a book I reviewed in 2013: In fine Style - The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion, by Anna Reynolds. It was ordered by quite a few Arachne members, and all seemed very pleased with it. Lace content.  Following my private note to Elena, here is what she replied: Jeri, it's a lovely coincidence that you share Anna Reynolds' book - she is the current fellow at the Costume Institute and I recently consulted with her to identify lace in the John Singer Sargeant portraits she is researching. She gave a fascinating talk that Devon and I attended as well. I have perused her book but I don't have a copy yet - I will have to add it to my wishlist!  The above is an illustration of how one of you might take over some lace news reporting, so I can cut back. To be relevant, news like the above needs to get to Arachne members in a timely manner.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Single space between sentences; avoid quotations/apostrophes
There are interesting problems. Tess told me last week that I should single space at ends of sentences. I have been touch typing 65 plus years. Double spacing is automatic. Will try to remember, but it looks weird.  Also, I noticed a while ago that the quotation/apostrophe key seems to result in a bunch of black diamonds in messages, so am trying to use a dash to set off book titles and spell out words instead of using apostrophes. Some will slip through, but please know that I know, and am trying.  Please know that I also have a list of gmail users that I send blind carbon copies to because not all gmail users receive my postings. If you have this problem, and wish to be on the bcc list, please write to me privately. It is how I now make sure Devon, Karen T., Lorelei H., Jean Leader and others receive mail from me.  It takes a lot longer to communicate, but the key word is communicate, is it not?  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - In a message dated 5/8/2018 5:07:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, m...@shaw.ca writes: I have the feeling this is being caused by the special character that Devon used ... I get a similar thing in Jeri's emails, because she still used a double space between sentences, something most computers don't like. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Cantu, Carrickmacross, Chantilly, Cluny, Coggeshall, Coralline
Dear Sue,  Do you have A Dictionary of Lace by Pat Earnshaw? It is a rare form of Venetian flat point consisting of minute irregular fragments held by starry brides. Its firm delicate tracery is reminiscent of the complex fretting of Byzantine metalwork. (I have a collection of shells and think of it as resembling white coral.)  And now I have a very important errand to run that involves cake and ice cream.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  In a message dated 5/3/2018 12:25:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, sueharve...@btinternet.com writes:  Hi Jeri, had never heard of Coralline so did a Google search and all I got was jewellery and algae? Sue M Harvey Norfolk UK Sent from my iPad > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Cantu, Carrickmacross, Chantilly, Cluny, Coggeshall, Coralline
When I read a local ad today, it seemed that with a little editing it could be a white space filler in lace guild newsletters. Here it is...with lace content. Begin each day with a little courage, a little curiosity, and Cantu, Carrickmacross, Chantilly, Cluny, Coggeshall, Coralline.  (If you do not know one of these laces, be curious - do a search!)   Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Happy Birthday to Lace Makers Celebrating April 28
A very special member of our list - someone who devotes much time to our lace enjoyment - is celebrating a milestone birthday. With almost no new mail from Arachne, and keeping in mind that I always say there is something new to write about lace every day, this note is for her and others celebrating today.  Description of favorite saved birthday card - imagine a cartoon of a hairy llama standing on a mountain top, with a background of other mountain tops receding in background. Nice pale blue sky for contrast. On the llama's back, a white lacy doily.  Thought from the llama: (THE GOOD NEWS IS YOU'RE NOT OVER THE HILL. THE BAD NEWS IS YOU HAVE REACHED THE PEAK.) Now, open the card: A MESSAGE OF INFINITE WISDOM FROM THE DOILY LLAMA. HAPPY BIRTHDAY !!  Please wear lace every day, and love your lace friends.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: What is best way to inventory lace books? New England Lace Group reply
Dear Jill,A public thank you for preparing a comprehensive response to my question about inventorying a lace book collection. I am sure the contents will be helpful to many, or at least give them something to think about.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA  Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace (magazine) - and use of magazines for research
When my Post Office burned to the ground on Feb. 21, 2017, the only mail I knew was lost were the end-of-January Lace magazine from England and a PieceWork magazine. Very rumpled sooty waterlogged copies were delivered to me. Certain magazines are so important to documentation of the present that my guest bedroom has 20th - 21st C. publications in bookcases and boxes that fill the room.  In this case, I went to a bookstore and replaced PieceWork, and then phoned The Lace Guild in England to order a replacement, plus calendars for the following year (gifts that are fun to give), and renewed membership. All in one call. So fun to speak with someone in the office.  The bonus for lace scholars who visit here is that they sleep in the library, surrounded by 4,000 + books that tell of the history of needlework in many nations since the beginning of researched time. It is a real celebration of the talents of unknown and known women. Guests probably have interesting dreams. At the least, it is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The librarian here has read all the books that are in English. Other languages are represented and shelved by nation instead of author name. Research goes much faster when you have her experience to draw on.   If you are a member of IOLI, there is a photo of my research library on page 33 in the Spring 2018 bulletin you just received. It is in the article by Jane Atkinson, of the U.K. What a surprise! Jane took pictures, but I did not know how she would use them. There are still many IOLI members who do not know about this library, because they are not subscribed to Arachne, so thanks for sharing, Jane.  NOTE: If you are receiving this in a round-about way because my AOL and Gmail and the Arachne server are not compatible and if you send me your Gmail address, I will add it to my bcc list, so you can receive posts directly from me. Please tell me a little about your lace connection when you write.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  - In a message dated 4/26/2018 7:50:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, mous...@live.co.uk writes: Lace is due out at the end of April, Liz. It is published four times a year, on the last day of July, October, January and April. This issue will be the last of the current membership year, so should have the renewal forms in it.  Jane Partridge The UK Lace should be out soon, too, - shouldn???t it? Regards from Liz. In Melbourne, Oz. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] What is best way to inventory lace books?
Dear Book Collectors,  Please reply directly to me. Managing a book inventory is probably not a popular subject for most of our Arachne subscribers and/or users of the digest form of our mail. We have written about this topic before. Technology is rapidly changing, and I'm seeking the most recent reliable inventory recommendations for two small regional museums that are focused on womens' history. They have asked for my method of keeping an inventory of books, but I am using a 1998 program. It is quite obsolete by today's standards. Given the devices we have seen some attendees of lace events using, I would like to recommend something that will travel well and be safe from spam, etc. and that can also be printed by a museum's librarian.  At present, I have 4,063 books in my needlework library and sort information about a book by the following categories, which are arranged in columns that print across an 11-inch wide sheet of paper.   A count column / AUTHOR / TITLE / PUBLISHER / DATE (of publication) / COST / TYPE (Lace, Emb, Sew, etc.) / ISBN# / VALUE/YR  I shelve books by TYPE - all about Lace, for example, are in one section of the room. Next, they are arranged alphabetically by AUTHOR. A printed inventory helps a lot. Some Authors have written about several Types of books. I can see all of them listed together. There is also the problem of books being republished under different Titles, sometimes in different nations. By sorting them together by Author, I can sometimes avoid buying duplicates. The last column is used when I see a book's value rise or fall. I enter the new value, and the year of that entry. If there is space in the TITLE column, I may add a comment like: (144 pg. hardback) or (English/French/German) or (Also see "another title").  Ir would be nice if one could enter photos of book covers, tables of contents, etc. Please indicate if there is a quantity limit. And, if you have sage advice about not having to start typing anew in several years, that would be welcome. By this, I mean that what one has in an old computer can be transferred to a new technology.  Please tell about any useful inventory features I may not have mentioned. And, what to avoid.  My program enables sorting by any category, so if I want to print only LACE books, it can be done and save paper/ink.  Thanks for your assistance.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Magnifier information promised to Lace@arachne in March
Dear members of Arachne and other friends who are receiving bcc's, Last month I promised details about the hands-free magnifier I loved to use when teaching embroidery because it was worn on the head like a hairband (I do not rest it on forehead as they show in advertisements, but stretch it across the top of my head, like a hair band.  This way, makeup will not transfer to it).  Hinge enables one to tilt up the magnifier when not needed.  Then, if you wish to sit down and demonstrate a feature for a student or read tiny print, it is at hand to flip down.  This is available from Amazon, but that man is too rich, and a locally owned needlework shop was asked to get it for me.  Would rather keep her in business.  OptiSIGHT Magnifying Visor is manufactured by donegan optical company, inc - in the USA, and in business for 50 years.  Instructions for use are provided in 3 languages, the first being English.  I think the other 2 are Spanish and French.  It comes with changeable lenses:  No. 3 Magnifies 1.75X at 14 inch viewing distance No. 4 Magnifies 2X at 10 inch viewing distance No. 5 Magnifies 2.5X at 8 inch viewing distance  There is a choice of colors.  I got it in a royal blue, which will make it easy to find.  After you put the name in the search bar, step down to the blue magnifier, price $35, encased in plastic.  You will also find it at the Walmart site, for about $10 less.  That is a place I do not shop, because of the high number of products manufactured overseas affecting the balance of payments problem between the U.S. and some nations.  Wash in warm soapy water and dry with a soft lens cloth.  No chemicals or abrasive cleaners.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] My AOL message failed to get past Arachne's panix block this morning
As usual, I sent a lot of gmail users bcc's this morning in connection with the wonderful weaving story from The New York Times.  The main message, addressed to lace@arachne.com , failed to be delivered.  Sent the rejection notice to Avital.  Am sure she is as frustrated as I am. Only the people who are on my bcc list got the message, and only Nancy responded to me.  Therefore, I asked her (as a personal favor) to please forward my memo from her e-mail address to you all.  Somehow, not all of The Times address got picked up for you.  Others have since chimed in, and I am happy you have had the opportunity to see the gold silk shirt that is 1,000 years old and estimated to sell at Sotheby's London for $700,000.  It is delicious.  https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2018/04/12/style/thousand-year-old-shirt- sothebys.html  This is a test to see if tonight's memo from my AOL account gets through to Arachne subscribers almost 12 hours later.  Not being sent again to my private list who got bcc's this morning.  It is possible the server for Arachne was not in service this morning, due to a power outage or some other reason.  That has happened before.  Members have been discussing our long history today.  Liz has been very generous in providing a server to us.  Perhaps we should consider how we can update dinosaur-era computer programming ?  Do we have a volunteer programmer and someone with a server to share that we could transition to, and could our existing files be kept intact ?  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: Lace Storage Methods in Victoria and Albert blog
Dear Louise and Arachne subscribers, Â Thank you so much. Â I recommend people print and save this V blog in their conservation/restoration binders in which - years ago - I recommended everyone save lace care information. Â There is no reliable 21st century book on the subject that you can buy. Â Saving articles for those who will inherit your lace treasures in the future is a good idea. Â Please keep with a copy of your Will. Â Knowing how to document, pack and store laces and embroideries responsibly is something everyone should know, and some of the content of the V blog can be adapted for private collections. Â However, some of the content is beyond the abilities of individuals. Â Â Louise signed her note to us by referring to a very soggy Cambridge. Â England has a damp climate. Â Has anyone used Melinex that has been sealed around an object? Â Does it breathe, or can damp be trapped inside a sealed casing? Â We have scientific members who will know. Â In the 20th century I was taught in Conservation classes that textiles in storage must breathe. Â I am sending this paragraph to the V, per Comment invitation on the last page of their blog, and will share their response. Â Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center (I, Jeri, have tested the address provided below, and did not need the second line - s-and-rehousing - to view the site.) Â In a message dated 4/9/2018 4:01:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, bail...@slb.com writes: ...there is an article on the V blog which discusses rehousing the lace collection and shows amoungst others two pieces of needle lace, one in green silk and one in human hair. http://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/conservation-blog/blythe-house-decant-updates-audit s-and-rehousing Louise, in very soggy Cambridge. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Diaper patterns - Kogin
Dear Susan  Topic is straying away from lace.  Not all Japanese Kogin embroidery qualifies.  Depends on how repeats are used.  Traditionally added beauty to heavy duty work clothes made of an even weave fabric.  Reminds me of the original use of smocking - on heavy work smocks/shirts worn by men.  Work clothing with a beautiful embellishment that added some shaping flexibility.  Some men were so proud of these, that they wore them on special occasions, including to church.  Now that I look at the words smock/smocking, I realize why the embroidery technique got the name ! Jeri  In a message dated 4/7/2018 6:32:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes: âperhaps Kogin is considered a diaper pattern? Perhaps Jeri knows the answer? Susan - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] INVITATION to April 21st New England Lace Group meeting
This is a special invitation to New England lace lovers who are not members of the New England Lace Group to be my guest at the Saturday, April 21st meeting, 11 AM to 2 PM, in the Joshua Hyde Public Library, Sturbridge Massachusetts.    www.nelg.us  For an early lunch, there are numerous eating options nearby.  Please RSVP me (Jeri), so I can make guest arrangements with the appropriate officers of this group and provide answers to any questions you may have. -- Program announcement:  LEARNING FROM A COLLECTION.  Presented by NELG member Jeri Ames.  For 7 decades, Jeri Ames has been hoarding laces, equipment used for creating laces, and lace books.  She will bring a selection of these and share their stories, hoping you will be inspired to preserve similar items to enlighten future generations of lace aficionados. -- More details for Arachne members:  Among the items to be shown are rare figural laces.  These are filet, bobbin or needle laces that depict angels, putti, people, birds and animals, some of which were copied from other forms of fine art.  There will also be unusual bobbin lace pillows (antique Ipswich style, magnificent Cone-shaped roller, miniatures), an antique European lace lamp, a thread spindle with squirrel cage rollers (Raffel, pg. 33), collectible books,  Of these treasures, only two have been publicly shown in the past 25 years.  1) A needle lace interpretation of Aurora by Guido Reni (1575-1642) at a Bethesda Maryland IOLI class, taught by Liz Ligati of Australia.  2) A handkerchief that was loaned to experts at a famous museum as an example of a very convincing copy of an 18th C. bobbin lace, featuring baskets of flowers and tree branches alternating with a huntsman and reindeer (Reigate, pg. 162).   Lace Conservation and Restoration comments will be an important part of the presentation.  Having never seen publicity for NELG programs on Arachne, I thought you all should know about this.  Please allow enough time to fully enjoy the day.  Suggest you bring a notebook to jot down information you wish to remember.   This is an opportunity to wear lace !  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Weaving/Fingerloop Braids/Braids/Lace (History References for Scholars)
Devon is doing research on lace-related textiles from 1970s to today.  However, there has been  correspondence this week that makes me realize some of our weaving scholars might like the following information which took a long time to research in 2016 for Kim Davis at The Lace Museum in Sunnyvale California.  It was to be used at a conference, and focused on the Silkwomen of the 1400s - women who were in business in London.   Weaving, Fingerlooping and Braiding are categories in my library that fall under the 1,000 books about Related Subjects (to Lace and Embroidery).  Being outrageously biased, I think this is a - dream - library. Some interesting references for those interested in early textile history:  1.  Weavers:  Before there was lace, clothing was embellished with very fancy braids of silk and gold and cords were used to tie sections of clothing together, also woven with gold.  Illustrated in the 2008 art book - Merchants, Princes and Painters - Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300-1550, by Lisa Monnas (Yale Press).  Vibeke Ervo recommended this to me shortly before her unexpected death.  There is a chapter on cloth of gold, which struck my fancy.  (Queen Mary, grandmother of Queen Elizabeth II, wore a magnificent cloth of gold gown and cream-colored Youghal needle lace court train lined with the gold and attached at her shoulders, to the 1911 Durbar at Delhi.  Photos are in Youghal Lace - the Craft and the Cream, by Earnshaw )  I was interested in early development of Gold Thread, and bought the Monnas book for information on 2 pages in Appendix 2, pp. 299-300 !  2.  Figures in Silk, 2009, by Vanora Bennett, is a comfortable to read work of fiction, based on history.  Bibliography is a non-fiction must have for those interested in the subject.  3.  Tak V Bowes Departed: A 15th Century Braiding Manual Examined - search for it.  There is a 2006 paperback book.  4.  http://fingerloop.org/ is an interesting free site.  I copied it years ago, and put in a binder in my library.  5.  SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism) members will find a vast amount of research materials available about pre-17th century Europe.  www.sca.org  6.  Perhaps one of our Arachne members knows the present (contemporary) braiding expert in England, Jacqui Carey (of her 10 books, I have 7).  She may have published some 1400s research, though I know her mostly for the Elizabethan period and Kumihimo.  https://www.careycompany.com/  7.  The Mercery of London: Trade, Goods and People, 1130-1578 by Anne F. Sutton (2005).  8.  Heavy reading from Sutton, but some may find the research of value: http://www.richardiii.net/downloads/Ricardian/2006_vol16_two_dozen_silkwomen_ sutton.pdf  9.  This is an English language Italian Lace History site, which leads to other sites: http://world4.eu/italian-lace/#Guipure_lace_Parchment_lace  Have fun being a scholar !  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center   - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Jill Nordfors Clark, - Contemporary Needlelace
Dear Devon,  In defense of Jill Nordfors, her first book, dated 1974, was at a time when there was very little available in America about the stitches she used in her work.  Her second book under family names of Nordfors Clark was dated 1999.  Both were primarily marketed to embroiderers, not to lace makers.  Accordingly, I had them shelved with embroidery books before 2000!  Further, I think the color photos of laces on the book covers were very startling at time of publication, especially to those who ordered books by mail.  They provide more than pure needle lace for reasons I remember (below).  1974 - Needle Lace & Needleweaving - A New Look at Traditional Stitches  1999 - Needle Lace - Techniques & Inspiration  Difficulty accepting what Jill explained in her first book is because it was unusual at the time to try new ideas and materials, to play and to experiment.  The Embroiderers Guild of America had determined that whenever possible a long list of stitches should be taught in each class at their annual Seminars.  I was very much a part of the embroidery community at the time.  EGA was interested in pushing embroiderers toward developing original designs, and if I remember correctly, it was because of the direction embroiderers in the United Kingdom took when they started the City & Guilds educational program mentioned a few days ago.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA  (EGA member for 50 years) Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - In a message dated 4/4/2018 8:18:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: I am surprised to see in her 1974 book that she has a lot of stitches such as chain stitch, coral stitch, stem stitch, Cretan stitch, Ceylon stitch and various knotted stitches in her work...she has a stitch called Venetian-point stitch which is a knotted stitch and does not resemble what I perceive to be the stitches in Venetian lace. She also relies heavily on needle weaving, both on straight ���warp��� threads as she calls them and on radial onesthe book deals with doing detached embroidery as part of surface embroidery.  Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Diaper patterns - see Dictionary of Needlework by Caulfeild & Saward
Several times I have referred Arachne subscribers to the Dictionary of Needlework 1885 (published 1989 as a reprint from the 2nd edition of 1885) by S.F.A. Caulfeild (Sophia) and B. C. Saward (Blanche): my old Arachne memos of 2/29/16, 1/21/09, 12/29/04 are tucked in my hardback 528-page book.  Book bears an ISBN of 0-907854-10-9 and was published by Blaketon Hall Ltd.  It was originally dedicated to Her Royal Highness the Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lorne (daughter of Queen Victoria).   Devon, I think this is a reference book you should have in your personal library.  It is my first go-to book when looking up any old needlework terminology.  There is a lot of lace content.  Below is what it says about Diaper patterns.  I am not using quote marks because all mail with apostrophes or quotes come to me from Devon with very objectionable black diamonds sprinkled throughout the text.  I do not know if it happens when I write, so I have begun constructing sentences without: --- DIAPER -  on page 153  A term originally denoting a rich material decorated with raised embroidery.  It is now generally employed to denote figured linen cloth, the design being very small, and generally diamond-shaped.  (Jeri:  It says generally, but I took a special Diaper pattern embroidery design class 40 years ago at a Valentine Assembly needlework conference in Richmond Virginia, and we also designed repeat squares - think of how tiles are installed on walls and floors.)  It is also used to signify a towel:  Let one attend him with a silver basin, Another bear the ewer, the third a diaper.  Shakespeare  Diaper is a damask linen, manufactured in Ireland and Scotland; there is a kind called Union, composed of linen and cotton.  There are also cotton ones, including Russian Diaper.  The finest linen Diapers, with the smallest Diamond, Fish, or Bird's-eye patterns, are chiefly used for infants pinafores, and other articles of their dress.  The name of this material is derived from that of the city in Flanders where the manufacture originated being formerly called - d ipre - or, Ypres.  The Birds-eye may be had in either linen or cotton, the former measuring from 34 inches to 44 inches in width, the latter 34 inches; Pheasant-eye or Fish-eye measures from 36 inches to 44 inches in width.  Russian linen Diaper may be had in four varieties - the cream-colored at 21 inches, the half-bleached Irish at 24 inches, the Basket-pattern (Barnsley) at 26 inches, and the Fancy Barnsley (which is an extra heavy cloth) at 32 inches in width. --- The next entry in this Dictionary is for Diaper Couching, which was used in Church work.  More about the Valentine Museum.  Valentine was a family name given to a lovely house museum that had the largest collection of needlework in the Southern U.S.  Along came a new male director who, with his board of directors, banished the needlework - half going to Rhode Island School of Design and the other half to a North Carolina university.  This is when I first began really following what was happening to the history of American women as it related to textiles.  Just saying!  And then, the American Textile History Museum (mostly about weaving) in Lowell Massachusetts closed a couple years ago without a whimper from the 51 percent of America's adult population who are women.  Indeed, I learned this some time after the museum closed.  Horrible - originally, everything was collected and donated by a woman.  We still get no respect.  I cannot find where the conservation/restoration staff relocated, or where the huge library (including lace books) was sent.  It seems to be a Smithsonian secret.   Americans pay a percentage of our income taxes to support The Smithsonian.  Billions has been spent in recent years on new museums devoted to space, race, etc.  When The Smithsonian is mentioned, women think only of the gowns of the wives of our Presidents.  Period.  One exception, if you read Arachne:  Karen Thompson tells us about the lace collection, her research, and how lace can be viewed once a month by appointment.  How insulting to the history of women that so little can be seen in exhibits.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Color in lace - Bath's book
Every so often, I write a book review for an old book that is still relevant and useful.  November 2016, I sent a review of Virginia Churchill Bath's 1974 LACE book to Arachne.  You can very easily locate it on the New England Lace Group's web site by selecting Book Reviews from the menu on the left.  You can see the colored lace of the book jacket, which is technically impossible on Arachne.  It occurred to me that some of you might like to print the review, and put in your copy of Bath's book.    www.nelg.us  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  In a message dated 4/3/2018 1:20:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, d2one...@comcast.net writes:  The original jacket cover on Lace by Virginia Churchill Bath (published 1974) is of a fragment of colored lace flowers, identified in the book as from Italy, 19th century. The author once remarked to a group of us that she wondered why we were so awestruck when we saw the actual tiny piece in the Chicago Art Institute's collection. but, of course, it was because at that time we had not done lace in colors ourselves. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] hi res photo of Arpad Dekani lace?
Dear Devon, Â Â In the official book, Halas Lace Catalogue, on page 40 - English translation - it tells about Arpad Dekani, b. 1861 - d. 1931. Â Halas lace first appeared in 1902. Â Between 1902 and 1906 every lace was designed by Dekani. Â Between 1902 and 1911 they were sewn with coloured threads and sometimes decorated with metallic yarn. Â I have no idea how to provide a hi res photo, but can mail the book to you, if that would be helpful. Â This book contains photos of about every lace made after 1902. Â Paper stock is of high quality, so I think you could select what you prefer and have a hi res photo made. Â Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - In a message dated 4/2/2018 10:27:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: Â I am writing the catalog entry for a piece of lace by Agnes Herczeg. Herczeg said in an interview that she admired the work of Arpad Dekani, the first designer of Halas lace, a Hungarian needle lace industry started in 1902. Â It would be nice to have a hi res photo of one of Arpad Dekani's laces to accompany this entry. Does anyone know of a hi res photo of his work that might be on Open Access, or maybe be in private hands? If I have to pay for the photo, I will just refer to him in the text. But if there was one available for free, it would be nice to have it in the catalog. Â Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Again, Please Change Arachne Subject Titles when You Change Subjects
One of our valued members has told me that searches can turn up more than I think, and that changing the subject line is not really necessary.  That may be so.  However, I still see the problem because of the way new mail is listed in my inbox when I sign on.  Subject lines sometimes clue me what to read right away and what to leave for a more convenient time.   I am very busy every day with large collections of laces and the library here, plus a large property to maintain.  I do all the manual work, except mowing and plowing snow.  Otherwise, as you've read before, I do far more than others at 80, and am busy from morning to midnight with much time needed for re-reading, privately answering your questions, etc.  I offered to retire from Arachne quite some time ago, and that was met with a chorus against.  We need others to step up to the plate.  Please indulge me with changed message subjects whenever possible, just as I still provide you with information you might not be able to easily find anywhere else.  And know that you can always arrange to come here to do research in a facility unlike others - anywhere.  I indulge gmail users who do not receive my AOL mail via Arachne - by sending a long list of members bccs.  That takes far more typing time than changing a subject to more correctly reflect what is being shared.  If my young computer guru had not died, I'd have him here to make a one-word address for these gmail users.  The Senior Center is having great difficulty replacing him, because he was a volunteer.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Please Change Arachne Subject Titles when You Change Subjects
This is another reminder - of many sent over the years. We have just received a most interesting and valuable 3/30/18 post from Amy of the University of Minnesota about Instagram, Facebook and Ning under the subject:  Lace, Not Lace Reaction to Needle Lace Revival Arachne comments 3/28/18.  Those of us who are seniors may not have access to someone who is qualified to teach us about these subjects.  It would have taken quite a chunk of time for Amy to organize her thoughts and type this information, for which we are grateful.  Very accurately, Amy comments early in her memo that Search engines have limits and can only go so far to create a connection.etc.  Also, about how difficult it can be to use Search engines.  Arachne has a Search capability in connection with our archives at:  http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  The information about Instagram, Facebook, and Ning, and how to use hashtags will not be filed in Arachne archives where it can be found.  There will be subscribers who remember it as early as next week, and be unable to find it.  Therefore, if you all think you will ever need this information, I suggest you forward a copy, with an appropriate Subject, to your personal file about how to use your computer and features you have never used before.  Another thank you to all who share.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Lace, Not Lace Reaction to Needle Lace Revival Arachne comments 3/28/18
Lace, Not Lace: Contemporary Fiber Art from Lacemaking Techniques ?   Do you think - Not Lace - might be more appropriate than originally intended ?  Some of us may not be on the same wave length as Needle Lace Revivalists.  A comment is in order from someone whose lace and embroidery studies and reading history is way above normal.  Personally owning (and having read) over 4,000 books on lace and embroidery surely qualifies.  Please remember embroiderers consider needle lace to be embroidery because it is made with a threaded needle.  From an educational point of view, it is important to be able to distinguish between what we have always thought about lace and what is being presented in this exhibit as - Not Lace.   Perhaps the - Not Lace - is more appropriate than most of us first thought.  Others who agree should feel free to bravely comment that some examples of the Needle Lace Revival  (discussed extensively yesterday) vulgarize long-established traditional needle lace techniques and design principles.  Have you ever been breathless when viewing an exceptional lace made by someone like Catherine Barley?  My wish is that one lace by Catherine (or a quality photo) could be in the exhibit - for comparison, since at least one of the needle lace revivalists claims to have studied her work.  Will the public be short-changed because they do not see any lace examples that inspired revivalists?  Are we being overly polite, waiting for someone else to defend the laces we have grown to love after many years of study?  Does that indicate a demeaning of the time it takes to become a lace master?  At this stage in history, any lace exhibit is better than none.  In a world that does not equally acknowledge art created by women by showing it in anywhere near equal quantities to that of men in our greatest museums (which are supported by disproportionate tax funding and volunteer work provided by women), Devon Thein is on a brave mission to expose the public to a different perspective about lace.  She is acknowledging that young lace artists of today (usually female) make affordable laces that can be sold.  She is a dear personal friend to many of us, and we hope the exhibit she is curating is very successful.  At the same time, dear Arachne subscribers, please do not feel you should abandon your values because it seems others are doing so.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 3/28/2018 4:40:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, catherinebar...@btinternet.com writes:  I have looked at Penny Nickels work and agree it is very impressive and can recognise the influence of my Snow Queen panel, but for some reason my panel does not seem to come into the category of 'Contemporary Fibre Art' - I wonder why? I know people are visiting my website by the number of hits it gets on a regular basis and clearly they learn something from the detailed progressive images that I have shown there, but my work seems to all be classified as 'living in the past' recreating old fashioned traditional techniques. Perhaps the skills that have taken me over forty years to perfect are the problem, and maybe if I were to incorporate some irregular tension in my work, it may be viewed as more 'avant- garde'. Clearly we all learn from the old traditional techniques so it is essential that they continue to be practised, otherwise they will disappear into obscurity. I wish you and all your exhibitors the greatest success with your exhibition. Catherine Barley Needlelace   www.catherinebarley.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Magnifying glasses without weight on your nose
We wrote about this just a couple weeks ago. Â I use a needlework shop for orders. Â The H*** with making Am*z*n or craft chains wealthier, even if the prices are less. Â We must keep our privately-owned lace and embroidery suppliers in business. Â There are very few left. Â They truly understand our needs and give personal service. Â The magnifier I prefer has gone missing. Â Have ordered what I want, and am in waiting mode. Â This home/studio/library is crammed with too much related to lace and embroidery. Â I have been unpacking boxes and sending things to the town dump, shredding, taking things to consignment shop, and filing or shelving the rest for two Winters now. Â A huge undertaking. Â The magnifiers that are on order are attached to what I call a hairband with a hinge near the ears. Â They come with more than one strength of magnifier. Â They flip down when needed, even over eyeglasses or sunglasses (if you demonstrate outdoors). Â You can walk around if you are a teacher and sit down at a student's pillow to demonstrate or retro-lace. Â You can flip them up if you want to leave your lace to make a cup of tea, or whatever. Â Â What is most desirable is that they add no pressure or weight to your nose. Â As we get older and skin gets thinner and slower to heal, this is important. Â When you adjust them up or down, your fingers are not picking up makeup from your face that can be transferred to your bobbins or thread, which might happen with magnifiers attached to eye glasses. Â This is a CONSERVATION lesson! Â Also, the plastic frames make them lightweight when added to your lace pillow's tote bag. Â Â Â Will share the product information when received, early in April. Â Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Handcraft movement in England
I first began to travel at age 40, 40 years ago.  After Switzerland (everyone should go there at least once), I took embroidery tours of the UK.  What impressed me in the small villages, especially in the Cotswolds, was the community buildings available to residents.  These usually resembled 19th and early 20th C. one-room schoolhouses in the U.S.  About the same size, vestibule, windows on both sides that let in plenty of light, and a stage up at center front.  I suppose the stage was for performances and meetings.   The buildings I visited in England were used for craft and flower shows.  I got the impression these sites were used by many women who had lost sweethearts and husbands in the two World Wars and needed a social life with others, and also by war veterans.  I thought them quite wonderful, and wished every town in America had similar.  (In the 19th and early 20th centuries in America there were Grange halls in many rural communities.  One still standing - about 4 miles from my home - is still being used for craft fairs, antique shows, and local performances.)  I think that after WWII people had few resources and had to be highly taxed so war debts could be repaid and their nations rebuilt.  What is being written makes a lot of sense to me.  Women who could marry and raise a family after 1945 probably had too much to do as home makers.  Gawthorpe opened to the public about  twenty years after the end of WWII, at a time when women would finally have time to make lace.  Dianne Derbyshire, an Arachne member, works there as a volunteer.  She can probably comment on what I've written, if there are questions.  Gawthorpe, in England at  http://www.gawthorpetextiles.org.uk/  became what it is after 2 generations of men in Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth's family lost their lives in the two wars.  Two died in 1917; two died in 1940.  Kay-Shuttleworth, 1949 MBE, lived from 1886-1967.  She was the last family member to live at Gawthorpe; she never married.  War losses are very apparent in the family tree published in a book about Shuttleworth's sister, Angela James.  The family tree is a form of validation of the problem of more women than men in some countries that were at war in the 20th C.  Today, Gawthorpe is a National Trust property, used for the study of material arts - lace, embroidery, ceramics, etc.  Devon, you will learn much at the web site given.  It is a great place to get ideas for museum activities and guild programs.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Travel
In January, I wrote inviting Arachne members who will be attending the Congress in BELGIUM to correspond with me. Â I have collected replies which will not be made public. Â Our travelers need protection from unauthorized people reading Arachne mail, and much of our mail seems to be going to Ge. A letter from Australia was from someone who learned - from gumlace - that I was collecting names. Â She is not subscribed to Arachne. Â Please remember that if you share a computer in a library, the office, with your spouse and/or children, etc. that what we discuss about travel dates and plans is confidential. Â It is also not the business of local lace guild members, or something to be put in newsletters - until after the fact. Â Your security and that of your home is necessary at this time in human history. Â It is against the law to maintain member address lists in some countries, but not in others. Â I will be writing privately to all who responded to me - using the bcc (blind carbon copy) feature for my first letter. Â Those participating will decide whether they want their name to be known to others attending, or not. Â I'd like to think we can write openly, because my intent was to aid friendships - in advance of the event. Â Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Nenia Lovesey
Many have been writing about Nenia Lovesey's influence as a bobbin lace teacher.  There are six books by Lovesey (one with co-author Catherine Barley) in my library.  Five are about needle lace and the sixth about both bobbin and needle lace.  This sixth is one of my favorites, because she tells how she taught very young grandchildren to make bobbin lace.  It is illustrated with pictures.  Were there additional books, perhaps about bobbin lace?  Here is my list: Creative Design in Needlepoint Lace - 1983 Introduction to Needlepoint Lace - 1985 Punto Tagliato Lace -1986 Reflections on Lace - 1988 (teaching children) Technique of Needlepoint Lace - 1980 Venetian Gros Point Lace - 1986 (co-author: Barley)  The Reflections book has a dedication: A letter to my granddaughters (lists 8), and continues - Indeed for any other little girl with love from Nana Lovesey.  It is a must-have book for lace teachers.  There are pictures of Kate Marie making bobbin lace in 1981, at age three!  Wonder if she is still lacing?  Following is a lovely memory paragraph from page 25 of this book:  When I was aged about four, the highlight of my year was to travel up from Devon to stay with Paternal Grandparents while Mother taught for two weeks at the school of Louisa and Rosa Tebbs.  The school was a tall house that reached to the sky, in Kensington Church Street in London.  There was a basement where meals were served, then there were winding stairs that went right to the top, so high up the windows were turrets, because by the time one reached the top, the house had become a castle.  One could see for ever and ever over the roof-tops.  This was where the lace for grand ladies was kept.  I was sure that one day a Knight in shining armour would climb all these stairs to choose a laced handkerchief for his Lady.  It seemed a pity he never arrived while I was there, because I had never seen a Knight before.  This makes me (Jeri) think of Mary Poppins, and also of the old headquarters of the Royal School of Needlework when it was in Kensington (now, it is at Hampton Court Palace).  Lovesey's following paragraphs are equally amusing.  Very worth reading, if you can find or borrow the book.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center   - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Safety of Our Members
In January, I wrote inviting Arachne members who will be attending this Congress in BELGIUM to correspond with me.  I have collected replies which will not be made public.  We must protect Arachne members, and much of our mail seems to be going to Ge.  One letter from Australia was from someone who learned I was collecting names via *gumlace*.   PLEASE remember that if you share a computer with others in a library, office, your spouse, or children, what we discuss about travel dates and plans is confidential.  It is also not the business of your local guild members, because we live in a world where people who seem safe to disclose information to, really are not.  Someone can overhear gossip between relatives and friends, and use that information in an unlawful way.  Security of our members and their homes is of utmost importance.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center   - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Lace Revival of the 1970s - Bath's book and Golden Hands
The Virginia Bath LACE book and also Golden Hands have been mentioned today.  Not long ago, I reviewed both on Arachne.  The reviews are easier to read on the New England Lace Group's home page at www.nelg.us  Select Book Reviews from the menu on the Left.  When there are no new books I wish to review, the past offers possibilities.  It is magical that though I did not anticipate Devon's new topic on Arachne, there are recent book reviews available.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  In a message dated 3/26/2018 2:36:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, cyncewilli...@sbcglobal.net writes:  And there was Virginia Churchill Bath�s book *Lace*. She was from the Chicago Art Institute.  C On Mar 26, 2018, at 12:36 PM, DevonThein <devonth...@gmail.com> wrote: > Adele makes the interesting point that it was not until the 1970s that it > began to be possible to buy books published by mainstream publishers about how to make bobbin lace. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Lace Revival of the 1970s - mystery book probably...
Dear Devon,  Perhaps the book to which you refer was Knyppling, 1964, published (in Swedish) by LTs Forlag in collaboration with the Swedish Lace-Making Association.  Author was Sally Johanson.  It was re-published with the title of Traditional Lace Making in 1974 in the U.S. in English by Van Nostrand Reinhold; translators were E. and T.W. Summers.  ISBN: 0-442-30037-9.  Sally Johanson was one of the founders of OIDFA, and one of its first Presidents.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  In a message dated 3/26/2018 1:36:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: when I took bobbin lace in the 1970s I asked my teacher if there was a book I could use and the only one she could offer was in a Scandinavian language. Although she felt it was better than nothing because of the photos, I was not really smart enough to be able to take advantage of it.  Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Bayeux Tapestry
Perhaps you can find answers to your question somewhere in the 41 memos in our archives that can be found by searching Bayeux Tapestry at:   http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  This is how you will learn to independently do lace research.  It must be noted here that the article in the lace bulletin is covered by copyright law.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 3/21/2018 5:06:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, stevieni...@gmail.com writes:  ...an article with explanation of all the different scenes of the Bayeux Tapestry was published in Oidfa Magazine. ...the article was related to lace and the same scenes of the tapestry.  Does anyone has this article? I would appreciate so much if someone could post a copy of the article on Bayeux Tapestry. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Bonington Gallery in Nottingham UK - Lace Blog
In the event you might be interested, I am sharing an address provided to me by an American textile professor with whom I exchange information from time-to-time. http://www.boningtongallery.co.uk/blog/lace-unarchived-a-history-of-the-archi ve  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: Hairband Magnifier
Thank you all for the several different recommendations.  Have been able to order, and will introduce younger generation to this easy-to-use vision aid.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  In a message dated 3/12/2018 3:04:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, jeria...@aol.com writes:   Unable to find the unlighted green plastic hairband style of the past.  The product being sought is lightweight and comfortable on the head, with a pair of hinges in back of the ears to move the magnifier portion down in front of the eyes when needed and then back to top of head when not needed.  - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Hairband Magnifier
I've just searched Lacis and Nordic Needle using the subject - Hairband Magnifier.  Unable to find the unlighted green plastic hairband style of the past.  The product being sought is lightweight and comfortable on the head, with a pair of hinges in back of the ears to move the magnifier portion down in front of the eyes when needed and then back to top of head when not needed.  Could be used over eyeglasses.  Irma Osterman used to wear when teaching.  She could walk around the classroom, sit down, flip down the magnifier and demonstrate a technique with ease.  My searches are bringing up heavy-looking versions with lights that firmly sit in front of the eyes.  What I'm thinking of is more user friendly and low tech.  Some of you will remember.  Are these still being marketed?  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Visas for teachers in the USA - advise please
Dear Sue,  Since you are writing about embroidery:  If the guild is affiliated with The Embroiderers' Guild of America, I suggest you contact them.  Their permanent office and exhibition space is in Louisville KY, and there is a paid staff to answer such questions.  They hire many teachers each year, and have a procedure.  Presidents of  each local group have a book to help them with such things as taxes, insurance, etc. It is sent to guilds when they are established, and should be handed off from president-to-president as changes are made.  www.egausa.org  This is a good opportunity to remind all that the Embroiderers' Guilds around the world offer needle lace classes, which our lace guilds often ignore.  Jeri Ames in Maine  (Member EGA for 50 years) Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - In a message dated 3/12/2018 5:50:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, suebabbs...@gmail.com writes: Our local needle-arts guild has a teacher coming from the UK soon to teach embroidery. Can anyone tell me what sort of visa she will need to lecture and teach? Or where I find out such information? Thanks.  Sue - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Wolds Lacemakers meeting and AGM 17th March 2018
Dear Maureen,  Thank you for your friendly gesture of  regularly posting your program announcements and invitations to possible guests who might be in the area of Kingston Upon Hull, U.K.  It is always interesting to read what your members are going to be enjoying on your meeting days.  There is a lot to learn about the Lace relationship with Blackwork and Whitework, and how they have been used on the same costumes and textiles.   While sipping a morning cup of tea, I will be thinking of you all - your noon will be 7 a.m. in Maine - before heading off to our Lacemakers of Maine exhibit and demonstration event on the same day.  In lace friendship from across the Big Pond,,  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 3/10/2018 5:29:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, maur...@roger.karoo.co.uk writes:  Good morning.  Please see below details of Wolds Lacemakers next meeting: Date: 17th March 2018.  Time: 10am to 4pm Venue: The Marist Hall, Church and Parish House, 119 Cottingham Road, Kingston Upon Hull, HU5 2DH United Kingdom Charges: Members �1.50.  Non members: �4.00 AGM: In the morning. Speaker: Cluny Chapman on Blackwork and Whitework. Everyone welcome Come and have a go at lacemaking on our practice pillow and see lacemakers at work.  Tea and coffee available (bring a packed lunch and stay all day) Facebook: Wolds Lacemakers.  Twitter: @woldslacemakers Maureen Bromley,Wolds Lacemakers - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Fashion History books
All will note that I recently began trying to write without using quotation marks and apostrophes.  This is because my incoming mail from some correspondents replace these grammar marks with bold question marks.  I think that maybe my posts are doing this to messages I send.   Devon,  This week I viewed the current Ornament magazine (published in California) at Barnes and Noble.  It features a nice long article about Aileen Riberio.  I appreciate her scholarship, also, and have 6 of her books in my library.  Lace scholars will use a variety of fashion books, though now it is possible to do a lot of searching via computer.  There were about a dozen lace books Lori Howe and I referenced whenever there were lace identification questions in connection with developing the (now extinct) Lace Fairy site - 20 years ago.  Following this exercise, I would select books on high fashion and national costumes of all eras, to see if we could match laces to their appropriate application on clothing.  We all know that laces were made for household linens and ecclesiastical use, but mostly they were collected and worn for personal adornment.  Perhaps I should repeat what has been said on more than one occasion - if you are considering cutting up a damaged lace that is assembled into an unusual shape - like collars, dress yokes, sleeves, caps, jabots and cravats - think twice.  These shapes make it easier to identify the lace and place of origin.  Those who teach may find them useful examples to pass around the room - something they might not do with an old lace in perfect condition.   Yesterday, I wrote the following to Lorelei, but perhaps should have sent it to all Arachne subscribers.  Bloomsbury Press specializes in fashion books.  I learned about Bloomsbury as a member of the Costume Society of America.  Do you know any members?  Maybe a search of their site will turn up something.  Also, that gives a suggestion that you contact someone who is probably a volunteer at a costume collection in a local museum, which might have the set of books in their research library.  Sometimes, such libraries are open to scholars without charge.  Also, I found some ideas by searching 4-volumes Fashion History.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 3/6/2018 5:06:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, devonth...@gmail.com writes: Lorelei���s query about fashion history books is a good question. The problem encountered by the lace historian is to try to figure out what all these pieces of lace in museum collections started out trying to be. It is very vexing, and I wish I understood the topic better. I have found the books by Aileen Ribeiro to be very helpful. .Any book that is actually written about fashion quite likely leaves out the lace as unimportant. But photographs of the late 19th and early 20th century can show lace on them. It is mostly these strange shaped accessories that one does find in museum collections, and antique shows, sometimes even composed of older laceDevon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon - Book released March 6, 2018
Please search the name - Iris Apfel.  She is a 96-yr-old American fashion icon.  The windows at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC (Fifth Avenue at 58th Street) are currently (March 2018) featuring her fashion products as part of what appears to be a pop-up shopping experience.  If you are near the store, go to see!   Apfel is one of very few living artists to have had an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute.  I have written about her in the past, because of her 2007 book, reprinted in 2010:  Rare Bird of Fashion - The Irreverent Iris Apfel.  When a quick jolt of inspiration is needed, I search her name at Home Shopping Network - hsn.com.  You will get a good summary of her uniqueness, not a sales pitch, at:  http://wwd.com/eye/people/iris-apfel-accidental-icon-book-3958/  Suggest you look at the photos and notice all the out-of-context fashion accessories in her home - rooms filled with exquisite antiques.  You can read the excerpt from her new book.  It will inspire everyone from young fashion students to seniors.  A positive experience.   In 1950 (5 years after the end of WWII), the Apfels founded Old World Weavers, a luxury fabric company.  They traveled the world, helping the industry to get back on its feet after the severe damages of war.  Their ads appeared in Architectural Digest, which I've collected since the 1960s.  That is how I first became aware of the Apfels - their products inspired embroidery designs.  Back in the 70s and 80s I saw Apfel in public places in Manhattan.  Each sighting was a strong visual experience.    Wish we had some lace fashionistas automatically wearing lace the way Apfel has worn accessories the past 70 years.  Please consider the possibility of attaching lace to clothing you wear when you go out in public.    Example:  The Lacemakers of Maine presentation theme at a lace exhibit and demonstration on March 17th (Saint Patricks Day) features butterflies. I will wear a hip length floaty black jacket (it drapes from shoulder down). There are 5 different white butterflies from different nations flying up the back from lower left to upper right.  A collection of 3-D Czech flowers are sewn on the left shoulder front, like a corsage.  Black sewing thread blends with the ground fabric, and large basting stitches are used on the fabric side with a tiny stitch every so often on the lace side.  This makes it easier to remove the lace when jacket needs laundering.  If one removes a jacket, the stitches are not boldly visible, as they would be if white thread was used.  In addition, for a touch of green, tatted shamrocks as earrings.  Remember, I have warned about possible damage to lace from car seat belts.  Carry a lace garment with you, instead of on you, when traveling.  Request 1:  Please plan to wear lace when you attend any lace exhibit, so that the public will see that lace is still being worn.  It will be a great conversation starter, and enhance their experience.  Request 2:  Please invent a way to become known for wearing lace.  Jean Leader has made bobbin lace earrings in many colors and various designs.  They are eye candy when we find ourselves face-to-face with her.  This is an example of a memorable way to promote lace.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
